Ender 3 conversion to 400x400 with the Ender Extender kit

[@maddias291]

This is exactly what "open source" hardware was meant for. Very nice video.

[@BLBlackDragon]

This is where the advantages of extruded aluminum and standardized design are going to start to shine.

[@TeachingTech]

Agree, I'm sure we will see more concepts like this.

[@reidn5185]

svnbit a cr10 series would be a better start if you’re asking these questions. One thing to consider is that print times do not scale linearly but rather cubically (print VOLUME). As a result, print times are extraordinarily long unless you’re running a volcano and a larger nozzle. For prints that long, you want to be completely sure that your settings are nailed down, and its much easier to do that with a prebuilt. The sidewinder x1 has always been a great starting point for larger prints due to the titan and volcano that it comes with, as well as the ac heated bed. Its also priced slightly cheaper than the cr10 which is a nice bonus.

[@svnbit8408]

@@reidn5185 thanks. Accidentally deleted my post. What are your thoughts on the ender 3 vs ender 3 pro? I'm looking at an ender 3 that's in stock in the u.s to get it fast. Are the upgrades that make the pro easily done within the price difference now that they are closer in price? 50usd to be exact. Thanks just wondering if the regular ender 3 pro is better starting place at that price, since I plan on upgrading things anyways. (Forget this extender kit for now, I may just buy another product later on to get faster prints as you suggested) thanks for reply

[@YEETPRIME]

​@@svnbit8408 I've always chosen to pick up ender 3 pro for the increased rigidity of the chassis and the meanwell power supply. I don't skimp when it comes to PSU reliability, and the more rigid chassis is an added bonus. It's well worth it in my opinion, but I'm sure others have had good experiences with the stock ender 3. You can always save that 50 dollars and get the stock ender 3, and use that money to throw upgrades at it. It's just a matter of where your priorities are at. If you're learning on a new machine, it wouldn't hurt to get the stock ender 3. When it comes to print quality, the pro isn't going to automatically give you better prints. That 50 dollars can go to things like the creality silent board, or a skr 1.3, which offer huge quality of life improvements (nearly silent printer). It is intimidating at first, but teaching tech is a great resource for getting started. You can start with either one and be fine. The ender 3 really is great in that you can keep building off from it. Maybe pick one up and keep looking around youtube to see what others are doing.

[@rpnct]

In the world of CNCs there are already a few parametric designs for machines you can extend at will (since those use a low Z height, compared to 3D printers, you have less stability issues with bigger machines).

[@budzillasohoski9858]

You are the best. I bought the extender kit but followed your instructions exclusively rather than theirs. You just make it simple and quite frankly, fun. Now, I'm going to offer you some advice on cutting glass. Its the exact opposite of what you'd expect...stop being so gentle. With glass, you need to just get at it and don't be afraid of it. Make "ONE" firm score with your glass cutter.....not 2, not 3, JUST ONE! , slide the glass to an edge and snap it. That's it. As long as you can see your score mark you are good to go.

[@henrikholmberg777]

Should be called a Ext-Ender kit =)

[@sharpnesstherapy502]

OR MAYBE EVEN THE ENDER EXTENDER how cool wouldnt THAT name be?

[@dennisrenton3897]

Boom Tish. 😁

[@AsikDrone]

🤯

[@payton1284]

Thanks for that one Dad

[@DrZbo]

Oh wow dude... missed opportunity for sure...

[@tonywharton5220]

It's brilliant that you do reviews like this and your feedback goes back to the manufacturer for fine tuning.

[@dragnet53]

One year later, They have changed a lot in the kit.

[@leonardzawaski1549]

It is awesome that he reviews the kit and comes up with some improvements that the supplier quickly implements. Shows the respect this reviewer is afforded! Well done!

[@xrayaiz74]

Absolutely great video, Mike. I assembled my Ender 3 Pro last week and I learned a lot in the process. I didn't experience any issues of note. I really like that an upgrade kit for increasing the build volume is available for this product. As you said near the end of the video, this is a great value for the money compared to larger "base" printers above the Ender 3/Pro that cost noticeably more. I will be ordering this upgrade for my printer. Your video hit all the right emphasis on assembly for the new unit. I'll have to ensure I print the new parts for the Y-axis motor and belt-tension. Please continue creating this content for 3D printer enthusiasts like myself.

[@salocin911]

Great idea and if your only 179 into your ender 3 like me... $318 total investment is going to get you that give you a sizable build volume and the luxury of not having to leave the ENDER community for support!

[@strykervalkyrion]

Realistically, ender community support is useless if you're at this point in 3D printing. You'd be better off looking in a custom builds community since majority of the ender community are a bunch of noobs. Speaking as someone who came from the anet groups the level of knowledge and technical knowledge was much greater than in ender groups.

[@macgyver9134]

@@strykervalkyrion That is who this stuff is aimed at. You could realistically do it for cheaper if you source the raw material yourself. My problem with machines like this is that they will never be reliable enough for production. It will always have to be tinkered with and adjusted every few months.

[@rentaspoon219]

@@macgyver9134 I've been looking at doing this myself, as for the reliability, the Ender 3 makes a good base, you can start with this and build out easily if your clever enough and it works out cheaper than buy a bigger printer

[@loveracing1988]

Right now the ender 3 is 189 and the ender 5 is 349, if I wanted to get a bigger printer I think I'd just get the bigger printer from the start.

[@lucasgonzalez7251]

Great Video Michael. I have the 300x300x400 kit and love it. I chose to go this route instead of just getting a bigger printer because I had already invested in a Direct Drive, Micro Swiss Hotend and SKR e3 mini. I'm super happy with it. Thanks Mark!

[@Prat-zi1ou]

I am late but after 3 years how is it worki

[@neogator26]

Awesome! I just snagged an Ender 3 Pro on sale for $183 USD shipped to replace my well used Tevo and have been looking at these kits. Great concise video.

[@lp0101]

I don't even own an Ender 3 and I still watched the whole video

[@4ndresolis]

Months ago I was in your position of speech. Maybe it's time for you to get a standard Ender 3. Totally worth it for me.

[@TheCowboysdude]

That's because he explains so well it's easy to watch!! Because of watching his videos my Ender3 prints like a dream!!!

[@mrmaigo]

Had this idea when I got my Ender 3. Glad someone went and sourced the parts for me.

[@LathanM]

This is the kit I have been waiting for. I don't need the extra height but the width and depth are a huge improvement.

[@midknightmist]

So happy you reviewed this... Mark makes the most awesome kits...I love mine!

[@amats3]

I completed this build after watching this. It do like the kit. Now the extender is one of my most used machines. Along with the larger build volume, I also added other mods to better print PETG, other abrasives and flex. Nice! Thanks for this.

[@Unrealdanrath]

Man I love that you’re the first channel that comes up when I search anything 3D printing related. Originally stumbled on you from your S13 airbox video when I was looking at options for my STI

[@JohnnyForehead]

The trick to flawlessly cut glass is to score and then break from one end of the score. Intuitively, most people try to break make the break by applying even pressure along the score line using a fulcrum or hanging it off a tables edge. This seldom works. You can still hang one edge off a table but make sure the break starts from one end of the score. A glass snapper, the notched part of the cutter, or padded pliers set to one side of the score line and a deliberate snap is all it takes.

[@beanMosheen]

If your glass cutter has a ball on the end use it to tap the edge like you say.

[@Yakena1]

The Kay3D CoreXY printer conversion kit is a great product! Looking forward to the review.

[@CaptainFettCosplay]

So I have the 400XL version and as a printer newbie as far as the modding and tech side, I had very few issues...and basically all were my fault. I have been printing with this for a couple of months and the only thing I will say of note is I have fried two SKR miniE3. I theorize it's because it's moving the large bed and mirror and is over heating. So I have changed the cooling and on next print I will change the bed speed to 300 like you said. Otherwise, this mod is awesome. Mark and the fellow Facebook group members are extremely helpfu and nice. I only wish there was a 500x500x500 option!

[@bluegizmo1983]

And here I thought I had finally finished upgrading my Ender 3 Pro.... Damnit! LOL

[@sharpy3453]

hell i just started and now this thing pops up lol

[@drdestructo0631]

Love the video now I am thinking about getting one of these kits.

[@NZHippie]

Standard mirrors are second surface devices meaning the flat surface is actually the back of the mirror as that the is the surface that is in contact with the molten salt... Great video as usual... Keep them coming...

[@rchokelal]

Thank you. Already hit the print limit of the printer and need to go bigger but did not want to have multiple printers.

[@johndoggett808]

When cutting glass, wet the cutter with a light oil like paraffin, white spirit, or WD40 (so it wets the glass). For some reason it makes a big difference to your success rate.

[@bwo924]

I'm sure someone else has also commented it but you have to use specific wires for the thermistor. Every time there's a change in the metal, it creates a voltage (think very basic, weak battery) that affects your readings. It might be possible to tune for that change but it does make a difference

[@igorschmidlapp6987]

I was wondering when someone was going to do this. Aluminum extrusion design lends itself to easier frame expansion. Now, we can all print our InMoov robot parts faster overall with multiple part arrangement... ;-) You could also plan ahead, buy the original Ender-3 DIY kit, and the Extender kit, and put it all together at assembly (minimal disassembly/re-assembly).

[@kylealexander7893]

i was considering doing this..or just pick up either a cr10 or chiron for 100 more lol

[@cragv]

Am in Australia; bought directly from their website during Cyber Monday sale (40% off and free international shipping) and it was shipped free of charge by DHL (took 3 days from USA to Oz, typical of DHL). Super easy, excellent value (couldn't have DIY'd this for much less, excluding the time sink it would have been). Nice.

[@Janovich]

Really cool but to be fair I have the Ender 3 Max and having only one Z axis rod across such a wide machine causes the X gantry to sag. This requires precise Z axis roller adjustment but it also tend to get them "stuck" at certain heights causing bulging layer lines(similar to elephants feet) where the gantry had trouble rolling up smoothly. Getting a dual Z motor setup is definitely worth it in my eyes.

[@stevenirish6160]

Ordered this kit I'm excited to receive it and start putting it together.

[@rodneybosco7376]

I have a Bob’s E3 CNC machine that allows for a similar type of upgrade path to their larger E4 model. It is simply brilliant and creates a desirable upgrade path should the need arise. I like that Creality has done the same thing here, so that you don’t have to learn a whole new ecosystem. Great instructional!

[@amats3]

I bought this based on your review. I installed it about 8 months ago. Works 👍 great on upgrading the ender pro. I added microswiss DD all metal hotend combo, BL touch and recently whambam PEX ...and use it mainly for PETG and flex 💪 Thx! with the larger nozzles it makes some nice large usable parts.

[@fab.prodesign8712]

You can buy the aluminum extrusions on eBay for a fraction of the price and drill the holes in yourself. I made my ender 3 1.2m tall for £46

[@kevinm3751]

Thanks a ton for this, was going to pull the plug but think I will wait and see what the KAY3D offers before I decide...;) Stay safe my friend!

[@patnewm5980]

Quick tip to deal with making a glass bed for the bed. I scored two 400x400 picture frames for $40aud. After abit of disassembly, presto a super thin glass sheets that fit perfect and a spare which as we all know will be needed later. Got it from catch if any Aussies are intrigued

[@br0k3nilluzion]

awesome video.. Mark should add this to his page

[@blackreelentertainment6663]

That ender 3 upgrade look beautiful. Great video!

[@Viking_Kong]

This video is very timely! I've been considering getting another machine with a larger build volume, but this appears to be the best bang for the buck. Another benefit is, it involves more tinkering! Thanks for the video, Michael!

[@pauldrake2170]

will have to do this one for sure!!! 1000 thumbs up

[@xIsouLcruSHca]

Since I got 2 mk3's my ender 3 is just catching dust for the last couple of months. This is a great solution to make my ender 3 useful again!

[@ramilvaliev]

thank you for detailed explanation ! I was looking for it this week. Good job keep going.

[@jcfpv3454]

Fantastic videos you have truly helped me so much going from my first design to a wonderful print

[@boballen2350]

Kit shown comes in at £187 in the UK including shipping and import duties (~$372 Australian). Not cheap. I'll wait to see the corex-y version

[@TeachingTech]

The parts are big so international shipping is always going to be a killer.

[@_FFFFFF_]

I was so very tempted to get this! Thank you for te review.

[@carlos2004]

this is actually quite a cool upgrade for the ender 3 and would probably pick up myself if i had a need for it. for now, my ender does ok for what i need it to do which is mostly just smaller projects. i'll keep this in mind if ever feel like i need to upgrade.

[@737smartin]

What an exciting upgrade option! I should receive my Ender 3-P in about two weeks. I'm excited to get started, but was bummed that the print area seemed DOOMED to be just a bit small for my liking. Now I have new hope!

[@thehappyextruder7178]

Been saying this a long time convert your existing printers make them bigger for a few bucks more, Great video !

[@stevenirish6160]

This is a upgrade I'll be be doin for sure with the upgraded motherboard

[@WayneMcCormick]

Well, I guess I don't need to go buy that CR-10 anymore! Thanks for showing us this kit.

[@raven_fpv]

I think this was a great idea! An awesome video too, I've watched all of your videos dealing with the Ender 3 pro. I'm very happy with mine and will most likely get the extender kit soon.

[@rgsattphone]

I wish I had known about this last month when I put linear rails on mine, I got the 400mm rails so I can upgrade as needed, I also put a dual Y rail for support.

[@AllahWarrior]

I've been looking at these kits, might get one now. Love ur vids

[@lliaolsen728]

I found it better to tension both Z v-roller sides individually before bolting them them to the x-axis assembly. That way they are unloaded from any weight or torque applied to them. Square the x axis to the screw side rail, remove from the z rail and tighten the two bolts. then install the other set of rollers loosely to the x rail, reinstall the x axis assembly on the rails and tighten the two bolts.

[@klemmonade]

I bought a CR 10 S5 for $400 off ebay before all the tarrifs, sure a BLtouch is a must to work on such a large volume. Sure my heatbed is only 300x300, but its 500x500 is great for my PLA prints. If you are looking at this upgrade you should just get a 2nd printer.

[@jtwkrc1]

You got a crazy good deal doesn't mean everyone will. I already have an Ender 3. If I needed to print something big and my options are ~$150 to get a bigger builder area (and not have a second printer taking up space) or spend the $650 that the CR 10 S5 usually runs, it isn't a hard choice.

[@Motovader72]

I don't use a mesh on my S5 or any of my machines for that matter. BLTouch is not a must for the S5, it's a choice. Software bandaids are no substitute for hardware fixes.

[@TeachingTech]

The mirror I used was plenty flat. The bottom of the skull was perfect. I'm a big fan of ABL but this is flatter than when the printer was standard.

[@kknopp01]

I've got one on the way that will be here tomorrow!

[@TeachingTech]

Enjoy your build :)

[@fatih4179]

converting to core xy is much more interesting for me. waiting it thanx.

[@rustycrustytriesstuff]

Great video! Very helpful! Just got the 400xl for my Ender3 pro. Looking forward to getting it swapped over in the next couple of weeks. 400x400x500 is going to be quite a dramatic difference from the stock setup! Can’t wait!

[@charlesbeshaw9843]

Thank you Michael for very informative video. For you DIYers. Kit worth it if you include cost of labor for cutting, drilling, tapping, the extras and other finish work. Kit: $149 - $159. However expect delays in order. I am doing my Geeetech A10M which has a very similar chassis, but different enough that if I did order this kit it would have to be modified anyway. Maybe do my Ender 3 Pro if I need 2 large printers? I Also have chop saw and drill press, however could be done with hand tools as length of extrusions not critical as long as you make sure assembly of frame is square. The 400 x 400 bed fits close to the vertical rails, but it works. Cost for raw materials $116 rounded up. US Dollars for all, as I am in USA. From AliExpress: Add $34.50 For 400 x 400mm A/C mains silicon heat pad and From Amazon: $11 for SSR relay. Details for using these on the small Y axis carriage yet to be worked out. For Chassis. From Amazon: $7 for wiring extensions. $27 2040 V rail extrusions 600mm, had to buy 2 so have 1 extra. Will need to be shortened after I figure Y axis travel. $30 2020 V rail extrusions 500mm, package of 4, cut off 15mm from 3 of them. $8 6mm Timing belt 10meters long. From: www.xometry.com/supplies/materials $22.66 400 x 400mm aluminum sheet for build plate. Add an additional $11.19 shipping to my USA address. May be more for other addresses. $10 400 x 400mm double strength window glass $15 if I wanted mirror. Local glass shop. 3D printed new case for control board. I may try skipping the 400 x 400mm Aluminum Build Plate and attach the Glass with heat pad directly to the smaller original plate with high temp silicon. Have fun, its what its all about. Don't complain about the work, if you think it's too much buy the kit.

[@johnm.gerard1718]

I would never use a printer without the upgraded screw belt tensioner. I stock tensioner just does not allow me to tighten the belt enough and I keep getting layer shifts. I have found that most layer shifts is do to the belt either x or y being slightly to loose. I being able to dial in the belt tension is a MUST. This is a MUST have upgrade to any printer.

[@dondawson7409]

Loved the video, you can easily see that you are a teacher, from another teacher

[@George-oh4we]

Hi, to be able to cut grass perfectly, you need to do exactly two things: 1. Make a SINGLE cut with the cutting tool; 2. While holding the smaller part with our hand on the opposite edge from the cut made and without the rest of support, type with the small hammer from the bottom of the cut in several different places.

[@reasonablebeing5392]

Great Video. Good kit if you have an Ender 3 gathering dust or picked one up for a bargain and use this kit to stretch it - it will still need additional parts as outlined by others below. I Would not recommend it as a way to build a 400 x 400 printer - you'd be better off buying a new or used 400 x 400 to start considering the added costs to equal one (larger bed heater, dual axis, glass bed, etc). You'll also have to print slower with a glass bed and larger bed heater if you add it - that is a lot of mass to move back and forth.

[@cowboy124aa3]

Next time you try cutting glass or a mirror score your glass then run lighter fluid along the score mark then lift and drop in the table edge to break your score. The lighter fluid helps with weakening the score mark making it easier to break.

[@TeachingTech]

Thank you, will do.

[@Berto47]

As always great video! This is exactly the type of modification I was looking for without having to buy a new printer.

[@CatCommando]

I was sad to see this since I just sorta did this myself to build a second printer from all my spare ender parts. this kit seemed like a great deal until I saw it just reused the heated bed and carriage. thats bad because the rest of that kit besides the alum plate you can do yourself for less than half that price. The bed and carriage plate are the expensive parts(about 60usd) of building a cr10. I got all the pre cut extrusions for a CR10 clone for 30 dollars, 5m GT2 belts for 9, the 4 metal X gantry plates for 17 dollars (banggood) that support dual Z motors, and if you are just upgrading a ender you have those gantry plates already. seems like only a deal if you dont have amazon prime and have to do a bunch of orders for all those parts. hell I bought two 1 meter lengths of 2040 extrusion for 12.50usd so that I could expand it further or build a 3rd machine.. this kit is for the lazy or countries without access to amazon.

[@DennisMurphey]

OUTSTANDING Great Kit and great demo. I really like the idea and think this is great to help the used Ender market too. Thank You, need a kit for my CR 10s Pro to MAX!

[@vcancer]

Love the way it looks and been wanting a bigger printer and the cost is cheaper than the bigger CR-10's.

[@k.959]

Step one take apart 3D printer. Done.... step 6.. buying second 3D printer to print needed parts. Thanks for the ironing out the process

[@micheledicati]

Fantastic! Now I have to buy it and make a video for my channel, absolutly!Thanks for this video!

[@VariThoraThNina]

Just a tip on cutting glass or mirror. Never cut dry. It will always shatter off line.Always use a lubricant like paraffin.

[@gadjetsvideo]

Great video and another mod to think about as well as all the others. Not sure I agree about not soldering the wires, if it gets hot enough to melt the solder joint then you printer is already on fire or the joint goes open circuit and stops the fire from starting.

[@TeachingTech]

I do agree on that, but generally I think crimping is regarded as the superior for this nonetheless.

[@jamesmiller7278]

All Mil-Spec assembly guides demonstrate a SOLID mechanical connection in point-to-point assembling and they point out that relying on just a solder joint is dangerous in higher current-carrying or AC conditions due to the hazard it presents if the wires (due to a non-fused short) heat the joint to the melting point of the solder, you may now have unrestrained live wires to cause havoc or fires.

[@danielabrams555]

Do you have any more information on why crimped butt connectors would be superior to soldering? As previously mentioned, I'm not buying the heat argument, because if you're wire gets hot enough to melt solder then all of the insulation would be melted off of the wiring anyway and the connection coming apart is probably the least of your worries at that point. I install electronics in automobile's for a living and in my experience soldered connections are vastly superior because they are much, much, more reliable than crimped connections. I would never ever recommend crimping over soldering in a car, so I'm curious as to why crimping would be better on a 3d printer. If you are not sure of the reasons, do you know where you got that advice from?

[@gadjetsvideo]

@@danielabrams555 I too am an automotive electronics engineer and I would usually crump and solder and seal with glue lined heatshrink purely to protect the connection in the automotive environment, for 3d printers I don't think it's as important.

[@MookieZerang]

I made lot of high current / low voltage cables for welding. All crimped. 300 amps/30 volts. Solder was OK for short term, no vibration/movement, or maybe just signal.

[@jmtx.]

Very nice upgrade! Thanks for detailing all the steps. Too bad the original heatbed won’t heat up the entire plate properly. Looking forward to your CoreXY upgrade vid!

[@Itouchlove]

Omg this is what I been waiting for. I was in the market for a new 3d printer

[@DJlegionuk]

I would have brought this over the copymaster 400 that I am having to replace the mainboard on because it lacks separate filament cooling. This makes a lot more sense.

[@JAYTEEAU]

Great stuff Michael. I have an original Ender 3 in a box ready for installation, this give me ideas. Cheers, JAYTEE

[@mathewphillips4185]

i like this, i'm actually wishing to see more corexy kits and or builds.

[@stevenshade5358]

Can’t wait to se the core xy one

[@jon9947]

I think the price is very reasonable, I was sort of expecting the price to be quite a bit more. Even if you got the biggest kit, that puts the price with the Ender 3 at about $400. That is a big print space for a pretty cheap price. Cant wait to see you convert it to a core xy.

[@699hazard]

Im interested in the Ender 3 core xy conversion kit video.

[@danmerillat]

I'm a lot less interested now that I see the build volume on the core xy conversion is 230x205x400mm. For anything but the z axis it's a downgrade from the stock e3. I'd have been a lot more interested at 300x300 or 350x350.

[@174wolf]

@@danmerillat Look up the Tronxy X5S (NOT X5SA) and build something based on that.

[@HotboiEngineering]

Do you mean an Ender 5?

[@adameichler]

@@HotboiEngineering Ender 5 is not a CoreXY printer.

[@crateer]

@@adameichler what kind of Printer is the Ender 5?

[@fiberop635]

Looking forward to the corexy conversion

[@poisondart]

looking forward to this being back in stock

[@erasmojuarez1786]

I thought that because the x axis was so long it would hang on the right side, but I see that it is not, it is a good modification, and it has its certain advantages, but if you are going to spend money, it could be 40x40x50

[@McPcholkin]

Thanks for video, waiting fore CoreXY ender3)

[@cap1sup]

Have to disagree with the soldering comment at 13:56. A good joint with proper heat shrink should blow that connector out of the water. In my opinion those connectors are for people who want to do it quick

[@alexandrugroza839]

Now only the dual z axis kit is missing, for that big printing surface and the long x aluminium profile, i think that there is nedded 2 stepper motors for a more stable z movement and a smooth surface print.

[@CaptainFettCosplay]

It might help, but I have not needed it at all.

[@TeachingTech]

I agree, it might be a handy additional to complement but not strictly necessary.

[@spokehedz]

I like the idea of "Upgrade KIts" to bring new features/functionality to older printers.

[@ThunderPantz01]

@Teaching Tech Awesome Job as usual Michael!

[@ssnydess6787]

Great piece! Got my CR-10 mini for $1performance

[@derrick_builds]

Vaz mode. LOL love the language. Keek up the good work. Love the videos.

[@aaronbyrne-colgan186]

And just when I thought I had finally finished upgrading!

[@jezdimir2007]

It screams for a dual z.. Wouldn't that be interesting?

[@Rsm583]

I bought the cr10 Dual z axis upgrade kit for my ender 3 which is working out well.

[@AE0MT]

I was thinking the same thing. Dual Z seems like a good idea here.

[@dennisrenton3897]

Same thoughts. Just have to relocate the power supply? Then fit dual z kit?

[@dombaines]

Indeed, once the ebay channel opens again.

[@dombaines]

@@Rsm583 Which one the one with an extra stepper motor or the pully option?

[@amats3]

Looking forward to trying it....

[@doobedoobedo1]

instead of deep sockets you can use a 'go through' socket set. Incredibly useful for long bolts or threaded rod.

[@joshuak4553]

Aw come on, I just finished an Ikea Lack enclosure for my normal Ender 3...but now I want the thicc Ender 3.

[@anglerfish61]

Im seriously concidering this.

[@adonian]

16:34. Never thought of hairspray thx 🙏

[@KernsJW]

Great idea, thanks for the info and great overview

[@avejst]

Wow, great extension Thanks for sharing this interesting project :-)

[@austinvickymoore3656]

This... this is what i want! Im gonna keep it standard size for a bit but i want to print big!! 😂 400m³ would be AMAZING and after that is done i wanna tackle a voron build i think...

[@brianfisher7385]

Damn, I just installed a linear rail kit. Maybe with some longer rails I can use this kit.

[@macswanton9622]

First question I thought of

[@TeachingTech]

I believe with longer rails you could retain the rest of your kit.

[@Sacrilikt]

@@TeachingTech can you measure how long the rails should be now?

[@brianfisher7385]

@@Sacrilikt I imagine 400mm rails will do the trick

[@Sacrilikt]

@@brianfisher7385 @Teaching Tech The new build volume x and y is 400mm, so it should be 500mm rail. With the normal Ender 3, the build volume is 235mm and 300mm rails are mounted. The only question is whether there is space for 500mm rail´s. Unfortunately I cannot measure it

[@keithadams240]

Your videos are awesome. Just finished doing a bunch of upgrades to my Ender 3 and was wondering if anything else could be done. Now I have a new vision....bigger 400 x 400 x 400. Thanks for the excellent detail, really helps to understand what to expect.