Creality CR-10S Pro - An honest review *UPDATE IN DESCRIPTION*

[@TeachingTech]

Argh! An editing error left out the screen shot I had showing the dual geared extruder. My apologies on leaving this out, you can see pics of it when following the links in the description.

[@almirantecarvalho]

No problemo!

[@mathewphillips4185]

my friend and i made our ender 3s to dual z very nice upgrade, Any Linear rail mods for all axis?

[@xscitobor1233]

Where is the link too the "CR-10S Pro replacement part cooling duct 2 (recommended):"

[@deceitive3338]

@@mathewphillips4185 Did you follow a tutorial, and If so do you have a link? Been thinking of doing that next, thanks!

[@mathewphillips4185]

@@deceitive3338 part tutorial but pretty much do it yourself. Angle square helps especially for RT side Gantry

[@TerrybleGamer]

My first printer was an Ender 3, very budget friendly good small printer, but sold it after I required more build volume for my projects. I bought the CR-10s PRO as it had good reviews, build volume and print quality. I had this printer for a week now and I can say that is on its return to its seller. I am not able to level this bed properly, even with the mentioned tutorial or the instructions that came with the printer. I was not the only one having this problem after reading some reddit posts for example. The hot end would not settle even NEAR the bed and I was not able to change the Z-offset, so I was not able to manually level the 4 corners. After fiddling with it a bit and turning of the auto level, it bored itself right into the heated bed, bending the whole assembly and leaving a pretty shiny dent in the bed. Very nice 600$ printer. Must be a monday morning model... I really believed in this printer and it had my required build volume... too bad.

[@FranklinDattein]

Another happy CR-10S pro owner here. I have waited about 8year to upgrade from my custom Reprap to a pre-assembled printer and this one was the perfect balance of features and price. It is a workhorse, very stable and works great out of the box. I've upgraded to Tyny machines firmware to get thermal runway protection, which isn't included in the stock firmware. I had the exact same issue with the filament detection and zero issues with auto bed levelling (I was familiar with ABL from previous printers)

[@donaldtrump2078]

One out of hundreds isn't much of a testimony! When it fails be sure to let us know about that as well..

[@FranklinDattein]

@@donaldtrump2078 still working strong. Printing 12hs a day, for nearly 2 months.

[@cgcwestcoast]

Walmart just delivered my first ever printer Creality 3D CR-10S Pro, could not pass on it for $225. Looks like a good starter with room for lots of improvements. Thank you for the informative videos!

[@willr322gt]

How the heck did you get one for that price! That's amazing!

[@cgcwestcoast]

@@willr322gt It must of been a mistake on their part, my friend paid 260 a week later. I see now is around 400

[@MakersMuse]

Great breakdown, definitely a mixed bag. There is nothing more frustrating than a variable first layer due to poor sensor implementation - I can only imagine how maddening it must be for newbies who think it's something they're doing wrong... :(

[@TeachingTech]

In subsequent tweaking and testing I've gotten about 6 prints perfect in a row now. Follow up video to come.

[@MakersMuse]

@@TeachingTech Very curious what changed! Sensor tweaks?

[@abcd199725]

@@TeachingTech oh wow, look forward to see your videos on that, i have to work out on leveling each time i print something

[@glumfish6862]

Teaching Tech When is the follow up to come? I am looking for my first 3D printer. I am familiar with electronics and building things so a bit of tweaking and modding wouldn't be a huge problem. I am between this and the Prussa i3 mk3S. The Prussa being more reliable and expensive. The CR-10S Pro having a larger build volume (which is nice to have for bigger things). I am really in between the two. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

[@عميرالأميري]

I was looking for it to be my first 3D printer Do you recommend it? Or there is a better one? I am looking for something that can print really accurate 👌

[@jasonmichaeljones]

I am so glad someone finally provided an honest review of this printer. I had so many problems with the ABL sensor myself, as well as being an early owner before there were actually publicly available instructions on how to update the screen firmware. I was really disappointed with Makers Muse and 3d Printing Nerd and others who I feel did not provide an honest review. One huge negative that you did not mention is that they used a non-standard design for the nozzle thread - IE - you can only get nozzles for his machine from Creality as i understand it. I also had significant z axis binding and misssed steps, so my x axis carraige would never stay level. I believe that this printer would be a winner if released as follows: 1) Standard marlin compatible screen. The touch screen is nice, but honest]ly who cares..i want a printer that works and can be upgraded, customized, and take advantage of all latest marlin features. I do not want to have to wait to use new community features until someone writes custom screen firmware. Plus, it is a small nightmare to upgrade the screen firmware. 2) Standard nozzle tread. Come on - why not. 3) BL touch. There is just no substitute. 4) Top belt/pulley to synchronize z axis steppers 5) Like 6-8 fewer screws holding on the bottom cover. It is a nightmare to get into the bottom of the printer. 6) I do not like the ribbon cable. It severely limits flexibility / customizing the printer, and i believe it will not be reliable in the long run. 7) flexible build plate, or even glass as stock. the provided build surface is horrible for many reasons.

[@TeachingTech]

Nice list of features. I agree with them. I had a pic of the nozzle ready but accidentally missed it in the edit.

[@TeachingTech]

Oh and I have a wham bam ready to go on instead of the fat alloy plate.

[@Mobeezy357]

micro swiss makes nozzles and they have an all metal kit as well....nozzles come in .2, .4, and.6mm ....also, you can get polyplate or pei sheet for print bed....

[@H1zN]

I agree with the screen. Thats why i have a 12864 LCD installed. But the ribbon cable will not be an issue. Its long enough to prevent hard bends.

[@tamgaming9861]

@@TeachingTech would you say or recomend - to me - i get my cr-10s pro tmr that i should order already a wham bam? Can you recomend anything else to have an easier start with this machine? I already have the Cr-10 which is awesome as it is, but limited in heat and filament types. Thanks for your answer.

[@shryx86]

Great review as always. While we shouldn't have to stab at prints to remove them, the clips in the front do swivel out for easier print surface removal. While that doesn't help much with print removal, it would help retain the bed leveling. Can't wait to see the competition between the printers.

[@TeachingTech]

Great point Drew.

[@SimonPlatten]

My CR10SPRO having replaced a damaged cable is now perfect and is doing a fantastic job.

[@aarntsen]

I' a happy CR10S Pro owner, and I can confirm everything you said. Matches my experience with it 100%.

[@tamgaming9861]

is it still worth to buy one if you already have a cr-10?

[@aarntsen]

@@tamgaming9861 I'm not sure. It depends perhaps on how DIY capable you are? My impression is that the 10 and the 10S can be improved to quite capable beasts with some knowhow and elbow grease. I'd say the 10S Pro is a must to swap out the ABL for a better one. I wanted the different setup with the electronics enclosed underneath. For me open-source was important, and the PRO isn't yet fully open source (the screen is closed source).

[@tamgaming9861]

@@aarntsen thanks for this answer. Yes the point with open source and the "closed but already cracked screen" is understandable. i watched before a video where the talked about that some ppl cracked the lcd software because so many things work only if you can change it. Lets hope the lcd will have a long life and we dont get the same problems as he had in the video. I ordered mine 2 weeks ago and i should get it tmr. So i hope i get not such problems, otherwise it would be a disaster. Because i want to print not to work on the machine the whole time :-)

[@quinn6786]

Arnljot Arntsen Is this machine still working well?

[@elissitdesign]

Tam Gaming - yah how’s the machine working?

[@reasonablebeing5392]

Great review. Way too much tinkering for a printer in this price class. Hope Creality pays attention and incorporates all of the great feedback in their next generation "pro" printer. This one should have been "plug and play".

[@cajone7591]

I have owned this printer for a couple of weeks now and would say your review is spot on, everything you experienced reflected to the letter my own ( including nozzle to low, gouging the print bed). One thing I could possibly add about removing the prints after completion, I found that if I let the print bed cool down to room temperature and then using the manual temp button increase the temp back up to 60 degrees the prints need very little force assertion to be removed. great review keep up the good work

[@SidneyCritic]

I use a Brim because it guides the scraper and makes it easier to get under the part.

[@SebasTian-od7oz]

Thank you so much for this review! This is the only one I've found so far that goes that much in-depth about the flaws. Since for me convenience and reliability is king, I now know for sure to NOT get a CR-10S Pro and stick with the Prusa MK3s. You probably saved me a lot of headaches, so I liked and subscribed :)

[@spikekent]

Fantastic review Michael, including all the potential issues along with solutions, as you always do.

[@alexandrucristiandavid]

Great review as always! Can't wait until the next video related to CR-10S PRO. Keep up the great work!

[@tripore]

I agree with all of your comments and thoughts. I bought that printer. Creality has definitely a problem with their products and quality assurance (although we knew that already). And last but not least, mixing extremely cheap fans with that printer which they call a "Pro" is a humongous business mistake which proves witout a doubt that they think about every penny they can get out of every sale rather than providing the best printer they can to their customers. After after a few days, I returned the CR-10S Pro to the store being very angry about it.

[@donaldtrump2078]

Me too!

[@partsdave8943]

I purchased by Ender 3 through Tiny Machines and I soon realized that the Power Loss wasn't working either. I was told, by them, that there isn't enough memory on board for it and the thermal runaway both. Safety 1st.....

[@TeachingTech]

Thanks for clarifying.

[@jonathananthony3784]

This was incredibly helpful---of course, much of the nuance and detail was way above me as I'm very new to this hobby. But still, I have to applaud educator, Michael Laws, for his very down to earth / basics-explanation of pros and cons throughout the video. I learned a lot. I mostly learned that I should wait before I do anything like purchase one of these until I learn much more! Great video.

[@TheRoadRoamer]

Hi. I’ve been watching your vids for weeks since I found your channel and have LOVED every one. FYI, I just got my CR-10S Pro yesterday and most of the problems mentioned have been fixed. I used the calibration video from 3D Printing Canada and so far everything I’ve printed had come out great.

[@gloriouspopemantom373]

That's good news, got mine for half price now a year later, v2 is around 600.

[@tremorflow3614]

Got my Pro early January and am very happy with it. I am on some forums and facebook groups and see alot of people having the same issues you point out. Myself have been very lucky as I don't have any issues other than the shards of filament collecting in the same spot as you do. I run 0 z offset and get the correct first layer after using the bed leveling process, maybe I have a better sensor than most or the environment I use my printer in is perfect for it, I don't really know. I refuse to use the tinymachines firmware for now as it seems to have a few bugs still, obviously I am using the stock Creality firmware. Am at 100s of hours of printing and am quite use to doing the auto level procedure that I know most don't like doing every boot up, I have it down to a few mins. Print bed for me stick just fine, I remove prints at 60c. My only gripe is that I haven't been able to successfully print with TPU, it gets jammed in the extruder, have tried many things but still no luck, I wont give up though as I can see you have been able to print TPU some what successfully. I enjoy your videos and watched a few before buying the CR-10S Pro. I look forward to more of your Pro videos.

[@davidbell304]

I Bought one about a month ago and am pretty happy with it. A couple of notes 1. The initial bed leveling is quite a complex procedure, there's three or four things that have to be done in order and the instructions are not 100% clear, youtube videos on it also vary so hard to work it out. Once done it seems to work. I do ABL every boot, watch the first layer carefully, and prints are sticking during print but just pull off when the bed cools (PLA & PET, yet to try ABS). 2. On mine, maybe I knocked it but in Print Adjust there was an 'Economy' button set to ON. You need to set this to OFF because it switches bed heating off after a couple of layers, but the build plate is meant to release prints on cooling ... so if Economy is ON prints tend to fall off before they are done. Silly. 3. Also don't like placement of the filament reel, I shifted it to the side column to make a straighter feed path (costs ~25mm build height). Still don't really like the weight up there because the machine can develop a wobble sometime and I fear this will eventually weaken where the post are screwed down, so before long I'll shift it off completely. Apart from that it seems to work pretty well.

[@TeachingTech]

Well said. So much potential once the little things are sorted.

[@tamgaming9861]

@@TeachingTech i hope you will make a video about all the little things and how you sorted it out. My cr-10s pro comes tmr and i am not sure if i had ordered it after your review because i already have a cr-10. But its limited with the bedheat and so on. My need is to print pet-g and flex filament. So i had the choise to upgrade the perfect working cr-10 with the risk to ruin it or to buy the new cr-10s pro for the other filaments. But now i am unsure if i will be happy with the PRO. I also dont understand why this bedleveling is needed again and again? I mean why if i dont change the filament type, i dont have to change the bed lvl on my cr-10 for month, and its still great. David above wrote he has to lvl his bed after EACH BOOT??? I think i will go crazy before i have the cr-10s pro already... what a waste of time..

[@davidbell304]

@@tamgaming9861 I do the ABL(*) each boot because I read somewhere else that there might be firmware issues with the mesh values being forgotten sometimes. I bought this machine specifically because I wanted to do bigger prints than my old machine. Big prints = big potential to lose many hours if the print comes off half way through. So when I turn it on I bring it up to temperature and hit ABL; that takes maybe 3 minutes vs 35 hours for my first big print; so it's just cheap insurance really. (* Tam Gaming, ABL that I do at each boot is just the automated function that takes two clicks on the touchscreen and ~30secs to complete, not full manual leveling which is fiddly and takes ~10mins) The other thing with ABL, when you do it, it pays to look at the four corner values that the ABL screen displays. If they are not pretty similar you should go back to step one of the manual bed levelling because I think ABL is really for small defects in the plate rather than something being badly out of wack. Also when you do ABL at boot you can check the four corner values again and make sure nothing has been changed due to bumping etc. As for CR10 vs CR10s Pro, I can't really say. When I bought mine I looked at a couple of the other large format printers in my price range (Tevo & JG Aurora). One of the reasons I paid a bit more for the Creality was they seem to be doing a better job of cultivating the open source/maker community. I'm not a FOSS warrior by any means but I think when you buy any of these cheaper printers the fact is the manufacturer is not going to have great support (especially in 6 months when they are already onto the next model). So in the end the open source crowd becomes your number one place for support, tweaks, updates & upgrades. Happened with the CR10, I hope it happens with the Pro. To a degree that has already started - Teaching Tech mentions a couple of fixes in the video - so good start anyway and I'm confident that most of various problems will be resolved.

[@aeaeaeaeoaeaeaeaeae]

One time I made the geode city with the inside out of slightly translucent glow in the dark filament, with a wood filament outside. It's one of my favorite models!

[@IgorDeCamps]

I'll wait for the shoot out. Great Review

[@nathancdm4]

Thanks for the review. I am looking at this and the Prusa I3 MK3S. The big factor for me is the difference in build volume. The fans make a bit of difference for me as I keep my printer near my living areas and need it to be quiet.

[@TeachingTech]

The mk3 is a more sophisticated machine but like you say short on build volume compared to this.

[@IcanCwhatUsay]

Where is the shoot-out video between this and Artillery 3D X1 Sidewinder?

[@lapidations]

What I really like about this printer is that it will set the bar for the others in term of features, while also not delivering all those features too well, which mean someone is going to make a super perfect cr10S pro and that will be a killer big desktop 3D printer.

[@Creality3D]

Creality CR-10s Pro Printer Suggestion Feedback Activity Dear Customers: In recent weeks we have heard from our community about suggestions customers are having with their CR-10S Pro 3D printer. We are so very sorry for the inconvenience- and want to assure you we take the suggestions and advice seriously. All departments at Creality 3D are operating under instructions to solve this problem as soon as possible. We also are aware that expecting you- the customer, to do our job for us and troubleshoot these post-sale issues is not entirely reasonable. So we've decided to try something new. If you would be so kind as to email us at [e-mail], describe the problem you are having, if you solved it, and how you would most like to see it addressed, if we're able to use that feedback we'll offer you a small cash reward for your valuable time. A "red envelope" as we call it here in China, as a thank you for your patience. Please note, only the email [e-mail] is valid for this offer. Offer expires March 17th, 2019 at midnight GMT. Also please include your PayPal account address. Thank you very much for your trust and support. 3D printer technology is still evolving and we appreciate your patience while we do our best to make 3D printers good enough, and cheap enough to be ubiquitous- a useful home appliance every home in every country can have. We appreciate your patience with the fast-moving iterative process required to make that happen. Award: Participants who give the most feasibility advice and solutions for the issue you have or you have seen in the community will award, and ten participants will be awarded this prize. Participants who give the related advice and solutions will award, and twenty participants will be awarded this prize. Except for the above two cases, the rest of all participants will be rewarded and the overall number of people is unlimited. Evaluation: R&D department, production department, and quality control department all will be involved. Deadline: March 17th, 2019 The evaluation results will be announced to you in the follow-up which includes whole reward participants who give the most feasibility advice and solutions. PS: This activity is not only limited to cr-10s pro, but you can also write the suggestion and advice email about our other 3d printer to [e-mail]. Creality 3D

[@dooley9621]

Use a stanley knife you know the ones with the blade segments you can snap off for removing prints off your bed. Open the blade all the way out then just flatten it on the bed and glide it under your print and they will pop straight off. Be very careful of course as the are a razor blade basically. I have done it this way for years and never had any trouble removing prints, it also gives your build plate a clean slate for the next print. Thanks for the review Mike I am thinking of getting one next. Just waiting on my Ender 6 to arrive for now.

[@SuperdanTech]

Have you done a review of the V2? Thanks!

[@JuhFlowathan]

Man, I was pretty set on getting this printer from other reviews. But after watching this review, I am not so sure. Thanks for the review brothah.

[@JJ-vp3bd]

what printers did you go with

[@ZicajosProductions]

8:10 - As I understand this is something that commonly happens with ABS prints on most printers. I wouldn't call that a CR-10 problem but more of a not-having-an-enclosure-for-even-ambient-heat problem. I trust your intuition, though. Great review.

[@PaulojnPereira]

I got some cheap sensor that gave me some random readings producing all sorts of inconsistencies on the first layer, i sorted the problem by placing a small drop of Loctite 243 in the regulation screw. Its seems that after a while due to motion vibrations these bolts tend to go loose, a small drop of Medium or Low Strenght (Loctite 222) prevents it from unscrewing on its own.

[@roncosta5197]

Have you checked out the CR-10 pro V2

[@joethecounselor]

Regarding anyone having difficulty removing prints from the bed of this printer! When using PLA, just preheat the bed to 40C after the print and they pretty much come right off, no need for the scraper.

[@AndrewAHayes]

Hi Joseph, does this printer have a slightly flexible build surface like the Ender 3?

[@joethecounselor]

@@AndrewAHayes It comes standard with a metal bed and buildtak. I ended up getting a removable flexible magnetic surface. The bed level probe likes to miss off the side if it's too thin which causes the nozzle to dig in if you don't hold something to stop it. I think this can be solved using a thicker bed replacement, but mine works quite well despite a slightly marred surface. The top magnetic sheet is fairly inexpensive to replace.

[@nyyotam4057]

Hmm.. Maybe you didn't find them.. Well try again. What you are looking for is two little hex grub screws, in small two holes up on the left side of the print head. They hold the capacitive sensor firmly in place, if the workers remembered to fasten them. Which by your description, they did not. With the printer, came a set of hex keys.. Well, let me know how it worked. It should resolve the issue completely - and provide you with the best auto bed leveling experience you can get. Btw, I just love the CR-10s pro. Its an extremely well designed, well built printer. Worth every penny. True, with several upgrades you can make the Two Trees Sapphire-S (also from Shenzhen) print faster, but the Sapphire is small and the Creality gets super high quality, even on huge prints, making the CR-10s family of printers extremely cost-effective printers per cubic centimeter of print volume, plus due to its superb ABL (but only after you fasten these bolts), the CR-10s pro always gets the job done.

[@TeachingTech]

I adjusted the height of the sensor several times and tightened the grub screws sufficiently. Pretty silly to suggest I've made an error here when creality themselves have acknowledged the problems.

[@nyyotam4057]

@@TeachingTech No need to adjust the sensor height more than once. Its height above the hotend tip is flexible, all you need to do is to set it the way you like it to be, then re-tighten the screws. Mine is approximately two millimeters about the hotend tip, this ensures it picks up the platform. Then do an aux leveling and then use a piece of paper (not the supplied 0.2mm ruler) to set the height of the tip of the hotend above the platform to about 180um: use the manual controls on the screen. when the paper stops moving freely, one click up. Now use the supplied screwdriver to adjust the capacitive sensor sensitivity: turn it counter-clockwise until the red led goes off, then slowly back clockwise until the point the led re-ignited. And now do an auto-levelling (press "measurement"). See how it works. In my case, after doing it, I can print a sheet of one layer all around the plate and get it as thin as a plastic bag and even all around the bed. If after all of this you don't get this result, then maybe your capacitive sensor was defective.

[@nyyotam4057]

@@TeachingTech Which if that is the case, if the capacitive sensor is defective, you should contact creality and ask them to send you a replacement like they've replaced your screen. In any case I wouldn't go inductive, because I like printing on PEI and it's not metal.

[@nyyotam4057]

@@TeachingTech PS. Forgot to mention, one thing more - whenever I get to do this procedure (which is not before every print, only when I want to be sure I have perfect bed leveling) I do it only after preheating the bed, to avoid all kinds of heat related capacitance issues from affecting the sensor. But this isn't such a major issue since this effect is mild.

[@Robothut]

Good job on the review. Lots of information presented clearly .

[@michaelward9422]

Jake 3d provide a flexible bed! Takes a substantial amount of weight off, making the prints come out much better and makes it so easy to take off everything! Buying my second tomorrow to add to the farm 🚜 ☺ 🤪

[@tsangs3363]

8:08 something creepy going on on the lower right corner....

[@michaelbiri6676]

Butterfree used Gust on Peekachuu hiding behind Benchy, It was Effective!

[@pixelsafoison]

Prints have souls?

[@drolsisusej100]

Would you get CR10s pro or the artillery x1 ? please help!! i have racked my mind trying to figure out what to get

[@fukyo-bo7ff]

what did you decide on?

[@TheRextc]

I would think the CR10S Pro. The Artillery really is lacking in community and parts. It also has lots of issue with the ribbon cables, connectors and z wobble. There is no support, nor website I can find. Very small manufacturer.

[@Kitwilbur]

I have a CR10S. It's a great printer, but it was plagued with little problems. I added bed leveling form TH3d, a new Swiss hot end, new aluminum drive assembly, new PTFE tube and connectors. It's a great printer for the size, but I have to say my Prusa mark III worked from the get-go. It does not print as large as the creality, but it I never spend more than the $750.00 I paid for the kit. The Creality cost me $599.00 last year, and $188.00 in upgrades. I still need one more upgrade to "Z" bearings. If I don't need the size, I'll buy another Prusa MK3 kit.

[@kkuenzel56]

At that price and the gremlins, why would you buy this over a Prusa? Plus, anytime I have tried to contact Creality with questions, I get nothing. Don't get me wrong, I love my CR10 mini but that was a sub $300 printer. For double the price I would expect much higher quality.

[@aggronn]

Was waiting for this one. Nice review! seems to align with what I see on facebook and other youtube video's

[@blackwolfecc]

Awesome video! Still torn between this and the Cr10S. I can add BLtouch to the CR10s, and create a really nice looking housing unit for the electronics. Decisions, decisions! THank you again for the great content!!

[@charliefrench2oo8]

There's a firmware that supports the 10s pro now too. Just to let you know

[@atarty4075]

I found that if you spray some IPA around the peripheral of the part once bed cools to room temp and wait for a minute or two, the part comes off quite easily, occasional lifts right off. Worth trying.

[@AndrewAHayes]

I don't know why you did not take the bed off and flex it a little to pop the parts off, it's not a flexible as spring steel but it does flex

[@slipspectrum9253]

So I have an old version 10-S that I still haven’t gotten around to putting together. I bought a silicone bed heater and SS relay for it to install when I finally do build it because I’ve heard the regular bed heater doesn’t work so great and takes forever to come to temperature. Did they upgrade the bed on the 10-S Pro? The Pro doesn’t appear to have issues with low adhesion anyway!

[@johnd.ingleson799]

The printer uses a Meanwell 24VDC PSU as opposed to 12VDC (CR-10S) so I imagine it's faster and possibly more consistent on the bed heating.

[@crazyhorse-us3ng]

Great review. I have owned mine that I purchased from Tiny Machines for about 2 months now. You're dead on with everything you said. I still love the machine and it runs round the clock for me with great results. I noticed that the link to that fan duct is missing. I wanted to try it out.

[@Mobeezy357]

Im thinking of buying one from tiny machines -- how was your experience? Did you get any of the upgrades that tiny machines offer?

[@GELHammer]

Here is a link to all things on Thingiverse for this printer. You should try the Hero Me design. www.thingiverse.com/Ninja_3D_Hub/collections/cr10s-pro

[@crazyhorse-us3ng]

@@Mobeezy357 I didnt do any of the upgrades from them. At the time the micro swiss hot end wasnt out yet. I did do that after as I love that hot end. Tiny Machines was great to work with.

[@kb3cxe]

Thank you for a great video. I apologize if I just mist it in your review, but how is the accuracy??

[@mikepersin6405]

I’m having a horrible customer service issue with Creality and Banggood. My bed came warped out of the box and was able to show them by pictures and video. So far Creality tells me a bed replacement would be needed, but I need to talk to Banggood. Banggood is giving me the run around so far only offering me a small credit without replacing the bed. I will never buy another Creality product or from Banggood again.

[@Pokornz]

You, sir, are the unsung hero when it comes to buying a 3D printer :)

[@gtradigo]

Thanks for the honest review. After seeing it I'd go for a Prusa big time.

[@philthejeweller]

Thank you for the thorough review. Do you know if this printer has been upgraded by Creality to improve the problem ?.

[@Props3D]

I bought one of these to print larger objects than my Flashforge (totally awesome printer btw). Couldn't send it back fast enough, everything was just ... off. It's like they were looking for the specs on paper but ignored everything that made a printer good. The fans were so loud they countered any sound benefit to having trinamic drivers, the 16 point bed leveling deposited boogers all over the print surface that marred the print. The buildtak surface got dinged on my third PETG print because it wasn't glued onto the bed well. Etc, Etc, Etc. If it were a 400 dollar printer, fine, but for 600, no way. Returned it and got my first Prusa, where so far everything has exceeded my expectations.

[@TeachingTech]

Thanks for sharing.

[@Graham_Wideman]

Ha ha, it seems like the CR-10S Pro is the machine that teaches people the issues that aren't solved by simply bolting together a collection of pretty good components, but actually require finishing the engineering, as in the Prusa Mk III.

[@skaltura]

I think that creality faketak is really good. Magnetic surfaces have their own issues as well

[@Blitz1Blacktail1]

Gotta say a lot of issues can be fixed if you're creative. Can't say that I regret buying it (it accompanies my other machines perfectly afterall) but I do admit the price tag is not really suitable for the issues it brings.

[@pdxcerealkilla9847]

I had a bad experience with the TM firmware. The TM firmware kept driving the nozzle into my bed. I never had that problem with the Creality FW 1.60.2

[@TeachingTech]

Thanks for the warning.

[@pdxcerealkilla9847]

@@TeachingTech yeah I was bummed because I wanted to get the thermal run off and Octoprint support working. Someone on the Cr-10 Facebook group said they emailed Creality and got a response that they are working to add both into their firmware in the near future. 🤞Also really looking forward to the shootout with the Artillery Sidewinder!!

[@w159]

Mine should arrive tomorrow, excited! Probably going to take your suggestion and get the flex plate. Also, likely going to swap to bltouch. Really don't like the capacitive sensors.

[@tamgaming9861]

i get mine tmr - how its going so far with yours?

[@w159]

@@tamgaming9861 sadly, I had to return it. I started a vase test print after setting it up and the ssr died. I was really looking forward to this one too. Now I'm debating on if I want to get another and chock it up to a one off issue.

[@tamgaming9861]

@@w159 oh man i feel sorry for you. What i read so far is, the owners who got it to work, are VERY happy to use it and dont want a prusa instead, because prusa has a lot of problems atm with pet-g and so. BUT the owners who have problems are most the ones who only want to print with it. But if they cant fix it because they dont know how or its too much work in their eye, then you will be unhappy. I ordered also the touchlvl system in hope i get one of the most discussed problems right from teh beginning away. The Wham Bam i will stay away for the first time because its really too much money for only a big metall. I will try the method with reheat the bed to 60°C and then try to get it off. But we will see :-)

[@DoRC]

Is the hot end all metal? I was under the impression 260c is well into the danger zone for Teflon.

[@TeachingTech]

One advantage of the Capricorn tube is it can handle more temp before degrading. I have not pulled it apart but I'm pretty sure the tube runs down to the nozzle so not all metal.

[@DoRC]

@@TeachingTech interesting. I wasn't aware of that. I do think that Capricorns numbers are a bit high but it's good to know I have a bit more wiggle room than I thought. Thanks for responding!

[@Mobeezy357]

there is an all metal kit available

[@DoRC]

@@Mobeezy357 for sure. There are a few. I have been tempted by the sweet sweet titanium of the microswiss but so far everything I wanted to print with worked with the ptfe. Eventually ill want to try out my roll of nylon then I'll get one.

[@Bostonbowser]

Ive had the cr10s for a year now. Ive installed some of the more complicated upgrades and its a great machine. Just wish i had those stepper drivers.

[@sosnasolomon9795]

Hello there, our cr10s pro printer stopped working and could you help me if you have the v1 software or any thing you think would help the printer work.

[@Bostonbowser]

@@sosnasolomon9795 gonna need more info

[@sosnasolomon9795]

@@Bostonbowser the screen doesn't work ,we thought maybe there is a problem with the software. do you have any idea how we can fix it?

[@Bostonbowser]

@@sosnasolomon9795 first thing to check would be that both ends of the LCD connector are seated in their sockets on the mainboard and LCD. Do this with the machine off. A firmware issue is pretty much impossible unless you tried uploading new firmware to the machine, in which case you probably just need to enable the LCD in the Marlin config file. Software does not intereact with the LCD. Worst case is you need to replace the LCD and/or the LCD cable. Replacement units are pretty cheap on Amazon.

[@sosnasolomon9795]

@@Bostonbowser the LCD works fine ..I mean it lights up but the touch pad is not working .it's stuck and it changed the language to Chinese and freezes ,nothing

[@mactastic144]

I don't know if you know this but I read somewhere on Tiny Machines that resume printing is disabled in their firmware for safety features.

[@Iamwrestlerblake]

The real question is, how good is it at printing D&D miniatures? My ender 3 is ok and I know that a resin printer is almost always going to out perform an fdm when it comes to that level of detail but I just love fdm printers because you can print large ships and playable terrain.

[@Gasrovescio]

the printer will print well but it is like winning at bingo, if you can get the first layer to stick to the print plate, it is not necessarily that everything runs smoothly to the end. I had to replace the sensor with the BLtouch, microswiss hotend, put a double belt to the Z axis, change the print plate with glass and hairspray, but to date I still have problems with adhesion !! it was better if I bought Prusa i3 MK3s immediately instead of saving $ 150. The problem, in addition to the sensor, is the axis that supports the hotend because even if I have aligned it, during the printing the right side gets higher.

[@Graham_Wideman]

How did you run the belt for the dual Z axis? I thought about doing that but could not see an easy way.

[@Gasrovescio]

@@Graham_Wideman www.thingiverse.com/thing:3387741

[@Graham_Wideman]

@@Gasrovescio Thanks for posting that. I did consider putting the belt at the top of the Z lead screws. I decided that had its own problems, since, as shipped, the top end of the lead screws are only loosely constrained in X and Y (radial) directions, in order not to fight the lead nuts that are rigidly attached to the X gantry when the gantry approaches the top. So I was hoping for a belt solution at the bottom of the lead screws, which would also accommodate an idler to take up the slack in the belt. However, you seem to have made it work at the top, even without an idler pulley, so that's great!

[@Gasrovescio]

@@Graham_Wideman in truth I answer you that it is not a simple and definitive solution because putting the axis motors in sync is almost impossible given the poor precision of the fixing of the toothed wheels. So it is possible that one of the engines goes under stress or that the aluminum bar that carries the hotend is not yet leveled properly.

[@Gasrovescio]

@@Graham_Wideman but there is a mistake, I put this !! www.thingiverse.com/thing:3431219 with this you do not lose 400mm in height.

[@daze143]

I wonder how many of these issues were fixed with v2. Hopefully most/all of them, because I just bought one.

[@vrosi1963]

what dose the adjusting screw do that you can see when looking down into the hot end assembly from the top

[@aaronlabeau1007]

Would love to see you replace the bed sensor.

[@defenestrator9119]

Doesn't the Pro version come with a removable bed surface so you don't have to scrape hard to remove parts on the bed surface and unlevel it? Is that not what the clamps are for, to remove the flexible print surface and bend it to pop them off? Don't own one, so legitimately asking on some level. I thought it did.

[@jonhuss6783]

Hello, I have A Creaity CR-10 with Dual Z Axis motors. The z axis goes up and down when homing but will not go up when printing. Is this a problem with my machine or am i doing something wrong in Cura ?

[@chrishaigh82]

Hey, I'm watching your review in December and thought nice, xmas tree up in the video. Realised you filmed it in march.

[@macmund]

thanks plan to get this for our school. Will be using a glass bed be possible for this model?

[@jimlynch9880]

From when I saw this video to time of actual purchase, the V2 came out. I'd saved the pennies for months before I could buy. It arrived. However, I'm not sure what happened in the manufacturing floor, but my gantry won't mount to the base. There is almost a 2mm taper inward at the base of the Z-axis extrusions. Closer inspection shows several bolts have not been tightened into the nylon lock nuts. Some bolts are too short to fit into the nylon portion of the nut. The head unit with the extruder is about to fall off and the belt is misaligned. The Z-axis motors don't sit square on the gantry and will need new brackets. It is too hard of a bend on the couplings and I fear will wear the motors out from such a hard bend. I'm disappointed that I'm now going to have to spend a day or so to align and adjust everything before I can mount the gantry. Possibly buy new replacement parts. With all the that said.....I do hope to get running soon on this. I've watched several of the "Teaching Tech" videos and am looking forward to using my V2.

[@albertvillalobos1377]

I have 2 Prusa mk3’s and picked up the cr-10s pro for bigger parts. I think it has enough upgrades to justify it over the Cr10s, even tho I’ve never had one. I think the print quality might be better on the cr10spro over the mk3, my guess is the lighter hot end, but the Prusa experience is definitely much nicer

[@AngerPiper]

Thx for this video. I want to buy large bed printer and was deciding between Artyllery Sidwinder and CR10s Pro. So I was waiting for your review of CR10s Pro and now I have to wait for your next competitor printer review ( can we have a hint which one that will be? ) and mainly that shoot off. Anyway thanks a lot for all your videos. They helped me a lot with Ender 3.

[@TeachingTech]

Tevo Nereus Pro is the competitor. Apparently it will take a few weeks to arrive.

[@kitrussell3180]

Does the Drect Drive extruder on the CR10s pro , you had video of this printer?

[@TeachingTech]

It is Bowden, not direct drive. It does have two gripping geared drives, however.

[@DennisMurphey]

Can you help me adapt the Max Struts to this Pro for Z stiffness. We need a method to attach the lower end. 1) Cut the metal Cover 2) use the metal cover and screw holes. Can you think of any other options.??? Dennis I am very happy with my 10S Pro. You do a great job!

[@stefaancodde6578]

Yeah but which are de motor drivers?

[@diamondsky3530]

I know this is an old video but you seem to have the wisdom. I just got into 3d printing and bought a buddies cr-10s pro v1 (same as the one in the video.) My question is I’m wanting to upgrade to the creality touch sensor over the laser. Would this sensor plug and play into my v1 or will I need a new 32b motherboard?

[@emanuelcalderon]

What is the kind 9f screen?

[@AZDodgeViper]

I have a CR-10S that I upgrade the silent board that was already configured for the 10S. Works fine except for the auto leveling feature. When I click next it goes to the #1 location lowers fine. When it goes to #2 location which is the far back left side the Y axis travels to far as well as X axis at #3 location making a terrible noise cause Y and X is going beyond it travel. How can I fix this?

[@Airtimeasto76]

Great video mate. This is my 1st 3d printer. Just a question, I have the pause function on cura. But will it resume were it left off or skip steps because does completely stop in one position?

[@captainchaosfpv5188]

Great Review! I was really looking at this but starting to look at the Monoprice maker pro mk1 for the price and similar style of this one. Hoping to see a review on it from you soon!

[@TheJohnqpyro]

Michael, As usual an excellent review. I just purchased the Creality CR-10S Pro, but have not received it yet. I had one question, as a safety concern. Is there a Mosfet in the control area for the Heated bed? I had on of the Anet A8 a few years ago, and I will ALWAYS install one if it is not present. Just curious if it was in the control box. Thanks again for the terrific review.

[@GreyGhost-r4z]

Can that Blue Vase thing actually hold water ? Is PLA waterproof.

[@JPabloDonayreQuintana]

Is it possible to use ULTEM-9085 with this printer ? If not, what 3d printer with similar cost can you suggest to primt ULTEM-9085 ?

[@dougkirk6842]

I've never had a problem with the flex magnetic print bed on the ender3 pro it's fantastic. looking at how hard it was to get the prints off this machine and the auto bed level joke it just makes it that much easier for me to decide on my move to go to a larger printer. All though this one has a slick looking style I think I'll save some money and get the 10s.

[@dinodolic2270]

X2 or cr 10s pro v2?

[@raqueldonorte]

Hi, this creality cr 10s pro is compatible with laser engraving?

[@peekaboo9400]

Hello. I have a new CR 10S PRO V2. After successfully manual leveling and doing the 25-point check, I try to print, but the nozzle starts to extrude PLA a few millimeters above the bed. Does anyone have an idea why that is?

[@DatFunnyPerson]

as of 25.11.2020 do you still need the costum firmware?

[@slevinshafel9395]

wich is better in printing? CR10s PRO or ENDER 5? I ask because of Y axis movement. on ender dont need to move heavy base plate and CR10 yes and the project is biger than ender 5. Why they dont use coreXY movement instead of moving base on CR10 pro?

[@kenanschoon8585]

Do you think it is better than the Ender 3 pro

[@chloemcholoe3280]

2.5 days to print 0_0 jesus. I admire you bravery to just leave it there..

[@kengoold7157]

Hi mate, great review, really considering getting one of these for my first dabble in 3D printers. Think I heard you talk about Banggood as your purchase point and the replacement screen under warranty, you sound like you might be in Australia like myself, if so I'm interested in the place you brought it from, Banggood, I just had a look and it's a pretty reasonable price. Are they good and safe to deal with? always weary about on line shopping I'm unfamiliar with, lot of money if you get scammed. Thanks. great work.

[@MrDonXX]

I'm looking for a replacement hotend for the CR10S Pro I want to replace the Bowden unit with a direct drive unit. Do you or anyone know of such a thing?

[@TeachingTech]

I don't, but the hotend is different to the older cr-10/Ender 3 setup. Best bet might be something printable from thingiverse.

[@leepatterson4009]

Hi there.. I am looking for a 3D printer currently.. So many options. My budget is sub £200 new or used. I believe my options are Geetech, Creality or Tronxy. Looking for at least 220x220x250print size. With pause resume and maybe dual. Nozzle. What would your recommendation be from what you have tested. Maybe I have overlooked some options? Thank you.

[@DatFunnyPerson]

do you have a cura profile one can use? i cant get it to work fine and i have spend countless hours watching youtube and doing test prints

[@josephjolly1936]

Great video, I have this printer it prints great the only issue is the printed parts are extremely difficult to remove from the print bed, I am going to level the print bed again and give that a try. Any additional information you can recommend to resolve the issue wold be appreciated.👍

[@frkn42]

Is the next review about the tevo neureus?

[@TeachingTech]

Yes but they haven't sent it yet so that video will be a while.

[@zip7806]

Can it be Upgraded to PIN TO PROBE?

[@joelprestonsmith]

I'm really glad I saw this before buying a Creality printer. Seems like it's plagued with problems. I'm going to skip it.

[@avejst]

Nice review Good points Thanks for sharing👍😀

[@geoffplant6517]

Since you last gave us a proper review in March 2019, now it is 2020 has the device been improved yet by modifications and issues sorted? I need to know please thanks.