Automated and easy 3D scanning with OpenScan Mini - Guide and test

[@TeachingTech]

THE CLOUD SERVICE IS OPTIONAL! Honestly, I'm very frustrating reading so many comments saying the cloud service is a deal breaker for them. In the video I explained that you can download the files from the pi and process them locally, which I did for every part for comparison. The cloud service is fantastic, but the scanner 100% works without it. UPDATED articled from OpenScan: www.openscan.eu/post/is-openscan-an-open-source-project

[@WindyLion]

If I watched this video 4 years ago, I probably wouldn't have known that it was possible to connect two devices over LAN through a web browser. I would have thought that the scanner was sending your images to the cloud, and your browser was downloading those images back off the cloud. It would be nice if they gave you the option to run a desktop OS on the PI, so you can plug in a screen and mouse, and manually move the files to a USB storage device. That way people could use this who are uncomfortable with networking or who don't have access to a WiFi network. (and maybe they already did and I just didn't research it thoroughly enough)

[@TeachingTech]

@@WindyLion You don't have to use their pre-prepared Pi image. Instructions are given for those who want to start with their own os and install the components necessary for the canner. So what you are saying should be possible.

[@hignaki]

Then it would have benefited you to be more clear about that.

[@michaeljamesm]

that’s awesome! I am planning on getting one after your video, the cloud service wouldn’t have bothered me too much but knowing it’s local is even better! everyone should support these open source projects

[@ClaytonMacleod]

You’re also missing the point. If the cloud software is 50% better than all other competing packages then you’re basically forced to use the cloud service. It is weird because dude is t selling it. Is’t charging for it. But refuses to give you that software to run locally. Quite frankly, puts me off donating. “I’ll make everything open source, except for the one critical piece that actually works better than everybody else’s software.” 👎 That he doesn’t even realize this is very strange. Or, get ready for subscription lock-in in a year.

[@plasticpuppet352]

'After you got the hardware, it's completely free to use.' 20 years ago nobody would understand this sentence.

[@josephrumpsa180]

And the same will ring true in 20 years

[@David-ty6my]

I only Trust this sentence once the "Cloud" part also becomes Open source. No Cloud runs free.

[@ooliver]

@@David-ty6mycloud is optional, run something yourself if you want

[@babbagebrassworks4278]

@@David-ty6my Ollama AI will run on a Pi5, no internet needed, yippee. "I don't need your cloud, I have my own" someone soon.

[@_Error_404_Goodbye]

20? Hell it’s yesterday already and I still don’t understand it 🤷‍♂️

[@openscan_eu]

Michael, thank you so much for bringing our scanner to a wider audience in a very understandable way. As a former teacher myself, I know of the difficulty of breaking down a complex topic without missing any details; you absolutely nailed that! I will definitely forward this video to our collaborating schools as a great introduction to the subject!

[@alksmdlaks]

are there differences in the Classic vs Mini scanner aside from the size and the polarizer module? I want to buy one but I'm not entirely sure which to get

[@openscan_eu]

@@alksmdlaksin short: mini is much easier to start with, classic is more versatile and larger scanning volume. but both use the same parts/firmware (except for printed parts), so you could switch to the other version at any time

[@DanAndersen_]

@openscan_eu Should I wait for the Mini v2 version, or does it look like the Mini V1 will be a "compatible" kit which can be upgraded to v2?

[@alksmdlaks]

also can I use any camera or is the machine made in a way that incorporates these small cameras. would there be a way to use something like a mirrorless camera

[@openscan_eu]

@@alksmdlaksyes, the classic version can be used with almost any camera! Many dslr can directly be used through USB or via remote wired triggering

[@kylek29]

I find that mixing Non-Talc Baby Powder (50%) with Iso. Alcohol (50%) in a small spray bottle makes a good DIY spray for scanning. The alcohol evaporates, leaving just the powder, and that wipes off really easily.

[@gaveintothedarkness]

great tip!

[@tnpshow]

Yep, that's what I use and it works pretty well

[@cyberlaurent2101]

Alcohol and electricity... 😮

[@lastnickever4440]

@@cyberlaurent2101 What electricity?

[@LV481]

@@cyberlaurent2101 alcohol is one of the best solutions to clean pcb boards, it's not conductive.

[@CDRaff]

Last year my daughter was in a trampoline accident and broke her two front teeth(one was embedded so deep in her friend's skull they had to use a tool to pull it out) which has led to a whole host of issues including needing a "flipper"(a partial denture). She recently had to get it replaced and instead of doing impressions like before they did a 3D scan. The machine they used was a photogrametry machine and it was honestly amazing. It was using the camera on a positionally tracked wand to take dozens of pictures a second creating model of her mouth live. They scanned her top and bottom teeth making two separate models then they scanned the front of teeth with them closed and it used that third model to combine the previous two models into a full model of her mouth with her correct "bite". The whole process took maybe 10 minutes and was much easier than doing impressions. It's also going to be ready faster and the dentist said most everyone says they fit better too.

[@TeachingTech]

Thanks for sharing this amazing story. Sorry to hear about your daughter's accident.

[@newolde1]

Friends don't bite friends

[@DaveSmith-cp5kj]

Oh I used that before. I think it's made by Straumann right? It's an extremely expensive setup though. Costs about $15,000 and $5,000 per year. The dentist I was working for ended up selling it though because traditional plaster molding is actually faster and more accurate. The only dentists who use them are the ones who don't have the skill to do the traditional way because in dental school now they aren't teaching how to save teeth but how to extract the most money. So the standards are significantly lower than two decades ago where you could not graduate unless you knew how to do it correctly manually.

[@Zimbob2424]

@@newolde1 Well you know how relationships go, sometimes they just go up and down

[@odin13th76]

Getting impressions suck as a kid, had to get a retainer in the 80s and ended up puking on the dentist from him taking the mold. So it's great to hear they have a better process now, more convenient for the kids and saves the dentist too

[@racoonartworks]

As someone who's been making his own photogrammetry scan rigs I would say that this is quite a nice overall product. There are a lot of things you can improve on in workflow and a few things that could (and I think should) be changed in the hardware/software and proposed workflow for this rig. Generally though: If you have the polariser add-on you should use it. And only use that. Turn off all other lights, as the main point of the polariser is to get rid of reflections. Other lights won't help since they don't turn with the model any ways. You're actually making it worse by having changing light situations over the model + you create more reflections that aren't polarized. The ring light will light the model as flat as it can so you don't end up with shadows and you get the overall best surface texture. Depending on your model and the color, scanning sprays are not always the best option. You can do much of the same with fine powders and a soft brush (baby powder, flour, etc). Reflections have been taken care of by the polariser, so what you want the spray or powder for is creating detail on the model - and that works best with a mix of coarse and fine details. Scanning sprays tend to be very even but can work at small scales like that. Also, ideally for turntable scans, you want to get rid of any background details. The lack of depth of field in this tiny scale helps the software to not take any background details as tracking sources but ideally you would want a black background. The arm could be modified to hold a black matte surface that rotates with it and thus always makes sure the background won't be caught by the software.

[@FowlerAskew]

Polarizers are super helpful for soldering with a microscope as well, it's truly revolutionary how much better the image looks with one installed

[@racoonartworks]

@@FowlerAskew That's true, though depending on the joints it can be helpful to see the highlights on the tin to see the shape of the joint. I did have cross polarisation on my microscope for a while but for smd stuff I find it easier to see cold joints without.

[@DisruptingScanner]

There’s a dome addon that can be printed to block light and serve as an uniform background. It’s very useful.

[@racoonartworks]

@@DisruptingScanner Good to know, thanks for the pointer :)

[@username12120]

Thanks for the tips, looking to get into photogrammetry and this will certainly help me out. :)

[@johnr8856]

Absolutely fantastic results with fraction of the cost of other units. Great job by the developers.

[@Flushmaster0312]

My profession is foundry model making and this is one of the best 3D printing channels.

[@shenqiangshou]

Honestly, these results are absolutely astonishing. Normally 3D scanning anything with holes is just not going to work out great. So the fact you got the benchy and various figurines to such astonishing detail even with holes and features hiding behind features is nothing short of mindblowing. I've owned multiple Einscan scanners that costs thousands of dollars each. I tried scanning a key recently and despite trying baby powder mix, it just couldn't accurately get the details of the key. I think the key, if you will excuse the pun, is this Openscan mini's ability to automate the imaging in all angles with a camera that rotates, where as myt Einscan is still turntable based with a fixed camera. Of course I did do multiple passes by manually repositioning the object, but humans are lazy, and after a few positions, I just don't want to keep doing it. So this Openscan's automatically moving camera is brilliant. I would be interested in you testing various scanning spray alternatives, since as you pointed out, AESUB is very expensive.

[@gibbnal]

Years ago, after watching some of your content, I bought my first printer-a Creality CR-10. You taught me how to upgrade every part, and later, I bought a Sidewinder X2 and a FLSun delta and fearlessly tinkered with them, Klipper firmware and all. I built a Prusa Mini clone and, after that, a Voron 2.4. Along the way, you taught me some 3D modeling and recently inspired me to build this project. These parts were printed on my Bambu X1C, but I know any of the aforementioned printers would have handled the job with aplomb after all of the refinings. I value every hour that I've spent following your content. Thank you for all you do.

[@Zero-Integral]

I have been using the OpenScan Mini for about two years, and I can attest to its greatness! I recommend printing the black half-sphere to get even better results! Excellent product!!

[@Duraltia]

"black half-sphere"? 🤔

[@rockman1942]

You mean the non reflective material?

[@joelwebster2046]

Late to the game I know, but I think there is a 3d printable backdrop, that is dome shaped to help control the light and to help ensure you aren’t scanning the background.

[@terranceroberts6259]

I like that you added ‘in accordance with my review policy’ to show full disclosure. Unlike many many reviews these days that are ‘influenced’ by the company requesting the ‘honest’ review. I bought the Einstar and I am about to loose my patience with it scanning small things (yes I know its not for small things), and this may be an alternative solution for smaller items such as plugs etc for cars.

[@johncahill3644]

I’ve been using an OpenScan Mini for about a year now to scan small figures (1/32 and 1/24 scale) and it’s outstanding. I paint everything Tamiya flat Hull Red (XF-9) and dust lightly with foot powder (Lotrimin spray can) and use it in low light conditions...it’s flawless! The software is modestly finicky but nothing too hard to work around. All things considered I love it and highly recommend it.

[@Alfaghetty]

How does a red base coat compare to black out of curiosity?

[@stevenc485]

I ran across the OpenScan a couple weeks ago but thought the scan volume was a little small. It's good to see they are working on a larger version.

[@Roskellan]

Sounds amazing, some very clever people out there giving there time freely to come up with this stuff. They are to be commended.

[@alexandergmzx]

4 years ago you made that video that reached me how to print. Thanks for keep making good quality videos!

[@Robothut]

Wow, best scans that I have seen for a hobby scanner. It is a bit too small for my needs. but as you say they are working on a larger unit. So, keep us informed if you get to try out the bigger scanner. Thank you for sharing with us.

[@nattym.s6398]

i used to operate an industrial 3d scanner (rexcan 4) & im impressed by the level of details openscan mini can deliver ! awsome for home projects

[@robertmro]

I’ve used the Mini with Agisoft Metashape and the results are amazing. Highly recommended!

[@ryancampbell9425]

This is insanely good results, especially for an open and relatively cheap solution. Can't believe its so much better than most of the consumer grade products currently available.

[@MikeBSc]

11:26 *Sped up. You're reducing the time the shutter is open, allowing less light through for a darker image. Slowing the shutter speed lets the shutter stay open for longer, resulting in more light exposure.

[@chrisdixon5241]

I think this is an incredible project, thanks for bringing it to my attention. I'll probably wait for the larger version, but definitely interested to get one in the future. I seem to remember that the Raspberry Pi cameras take a second or two to auto focus before taking an image. That might explain some of the lag between adjusting a setting and seeing the result in the preview

[@GrieveIV]

This is the most promising scanner I’ve seen for scanning small objects. So many of these 400 scanners are junk that can’t get precision or any less than 50mm. And yet this one does the job I want it to for even less. I’ll definitely be considering this when money isn’t as tight

[@Devills_hill]

Story of my life: finally have a epic workstation at home -> everything goes cloud based 😂

[@Devills_hill]

@@tomaszkarwik6357 then i should look in to it more, didn't find that when i tried to rtfm

[@lvl89wrlk21]

Very interested in building something like this would probably need to pair it with a much larger design as some objects I work with are up to 220mm tall. Will keep an eye out for the midi and his other designs. Very impressed with the tech and product. Well done Michael and the creator of the Openscan

[@joelwebster2046]

I saw a brief interview with him recently and he said with the open source nature of everything it would be possible to scale it up as large as you wanted more or less… what the logistics of that would be I’m not sure

[@BigDisanza]

For precise slider control in the Openscan software, click on the slider ball and then use the left and right arrows on your keyboard to move a single step at a time.

[@jerryzedler1440]

Cool! I really appreciate your hard work in presenting this! Thanks so much and keep up the good work Michael.

[@TeachingTech]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@DR4K0R3X]

Great results! I will definitely be trying the larger version when it is done.

[@JoshuaPullin]

Wow, this video came at just the right time for me! Definitely going to get one of these

[@gordon861]

Not got a 3D printer yet (it's on order) but this is probably going to be one of my first projects. A few thoughts come to mind when seeing this though, like why not use the ethernet port on the Pi board rather than wifi, that might solve some of the lag issues. Also, the software should allow you to just type numbers in rather than relying on sliders.

[@reborneuk]

I made one a couple of years ago (video on my channel) which does a similar thing with an Arduino - obviously nowhere near as professional as this as it was just for personal use, and tbh this really impresses me. Small objects close to the camera can be a right pain, especially the lighting, but this seems to combat that quite well. Yeah, good stuff!

[@OrgathmTech]

just an idea to optimze the scan of tube parts, shown in the video. tilt it 30-45 degrees on that sticky subtance. i think then the reflections are good for the scan, because they are moving now. i never tested it, but its worth a try

[@scurvy786]

I've been wanting to build one of these for a while now and got excited to see your video on it, I was hopefull that you would show where we could source all the parts cheap and within Aussie. Thx for the video though, confirms that the scanner is capable for what I want to use it for.

[@thebooduck]

that sounds pretty neat, thanks for showcasing the project!

[@alun7006]

This looks great! I've played with photogrammetry a little bit but this looks like a superb option for the small parts i want to scan.

[@MCsCreations]

Thanks a bunch, Michael! Really interesting process indeed!!! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@PrintFarmer]

Thanks for the great summary. I’m incredibly impressed by the results!

[@kaasmeester5903]

Thanks for the quick but thorough review. This looks like a nice tool to have next to the 3D printer. I think I'll order me a kit :)

[@IBUILTTHAT]

I'm looking forward to the larger scanner. Most of the stuff I need to scan is around 4 inches long.

[@jjs7898]

Great video, thanks for the investigation. Fantastic news on the progress of Photogrammetry when used with a setup like this. That's really impressive.

[@DynamicDesign144]

Those are impressive results. Might have to build one...

[@somaliskinnypirate]

Amazing product. Great review thanks for putting this video together.

[@Liris777]

an exciting project that should be tested further and further

[@MrTweetyhack]

this is going to start another revolution like reprap did. Great job!

[@imyou4881]

This is what I'm thinking. Finally, you did it. This will motivate me to improve my project also.

[@baddan]

Thanks for sharing Michael! This is the first 3d scanner (that I've seen) that really copy with cirurgical precision and doesn't cost a lot

[@cekuhnen]

Truly amazing fine details with the Pi camera

[@Mephistal]

It’s so small and cute. I run a CT scanner so I love these videos. I have a Metrotom 1500 and an 800.

[@cl7826]

is that possible to compare the scanned stl with the originally CAD to check if the surface of the part being printed is within tolerance?

[@radiotbo4646]

Incredible results!!!

[@girrrrrrr2]

I was looking at this in the past and wasn't sure how realistic their claims were. Turns out pretty realistic, I just wish I could host the software on my hardware.

[@Donorcyclist]

This is very cool! I’m inspired to purchase this kit!

[@NicnacSaurus]

oh i wish i would have seen this before i bought a 3d scanner, I am definitely interested in attempting it. Thanks for the overview and thanks OpenScan for doing what you are💜

[@mccg4337]

this will almost cost 430$ shipped to USA if you go are the all inclusive kit... this seemed like a great option for me but the price is beating me.. but again if it comes with direct support from the manufacturer ,... thats awesome...

[@AIPapersDecodedPodcast]

it is awesome, I am still with the classic version, pretty happy

[@avejst]

Wow, great video as always. Impressive project ❤ Thanks for sharing your experience with All of us👍😀

[@tristanswim]

I have used my openscan mini for a few thousand mini scans to mostly remarkable results when done properly. It is simply unmatched when it comes to quality for the price. A few gripes would be, needing to use glue on one of the motor axels to keep things from slipping, sometimes my scanner would start to climb a tiny bit over the course of scans and then get stuck passing the last gear on the overhead view, requiring manual correction and restart, and last my scanner has become very buggy after so many scans and sometimes either bugs out mid scan or can seem impossible to turn on with continuous or frantic flashing, so when I manage to get it working again it is delicate to touch. Could be a soldering issue from my own end.

[@c26084]

I think you should use black matte filament to print scanner use and black sheet behind it.

[@openscan_eu]

This has been tried and any material without visible particles works equally well with most programs.

[@OddJobEntertainment]

Minor correction. Shutter speed is inversely proportional to brightness. You'll notice the Shutter setting in the interface is measured in milliseconds. So decreasing that value is actually increasing the shutter speed thereby making the scene darker because the sensor is exposed for less time.

[@MrRoadWorrier]

I would be very interested in a larger version for scanning automotive components such as interior trim.

[@EatingCtrlV]

Extremely impressive results, really interested in the larger V2 option in the future. I clearly understood the cloud features were optional by the way you distinctly and directly said it's optional and the output of the scanner can be processed locally on your own machine. I feel like the people in the comments either A, didn't watch the video, or B, are just being snobs about the fact that this guy isn't giving away for free that one component. I will absolutely be building a V2 of this if the build volume suits my needs.

[@openscan_eu]

The classic version of the scanner suits larger models of up to 18x18x18 cm and can be modded to fit even larger models

[@EatingCtrlV]

@@openscan_eu thanks for the reply, I'll look into this and measure up what I have that I would like to scan!

[@Dtr146]

Okay after doing some digging. Anybody who's turned off this project because of the raspberry pi part. Just do the open scan regular version. it works with smartphones DLSRs and a raspberry pi camera. Not to mention it's just bigger

[@kevinr6721]

Not sure if mentioned elsewhere, but gold bond or other shoe/foot spray works well for only a few dollars. We use it in our metrology lab for any high gloss parts.

[@WARPAINTandUnicorns]

I've been very interested in scan software and component as a scultor. Being able to scan the things I make and scale up or down as needed with the geometry would be a very nice tool to have.

[@bridget_clinch]

Been eyeing something like this off for a while, just moved house, my workshop/lair is still being sorted. I do have the old xbox one and xbox 360 scanners too, with their PC adapter cables and the microsoft SDKs.

[@ericlotze7724]

Can you try out/demo the Open Source “scAnt” Photogrammetry 3D Scanner as well?

[@benmaks]

Looks neat, though I have no idea what to use it for.

[@tabletopscanman]

Fantastic video buddy, delivered really well with a good amount of engaging content. It ended without me even realising I had watched for that long. Great work 👏 👍

[@therealtiamat]

very good glimpse into DIY 3D Scanning with the help of 3D printing!!!

[@VRinRL]

Ive been looking for a cheap scanning option for so long, thx teaching tech.

[@erynellbe]

Awesome scannning what a marvel ofndesign

[@MikevomMars]

I am following the subject of photogrammetry for a couple of years now and the quality of the scanned objects shown here is really among the BEST you can find out there. I am absolutely surprised! The only drawback is that it only scans relatively small objects.

[@TioDave]

I often find myself looking into 3d scanning by never end up pulling the trigger on a setup to scan with. After watching this I'm reminded of how many times object size is an issue for my needs. I often want to scan a smaller part of something larger. It got me thinking about some sort of photogrammetry drone or robot that could move the camera around and object to provide images from as many angles as needed. Like DJI drones have with being able to orbit and object by setting a midpoint and a distance from that point to orbit. With options like half circle or semicircle I think I could capture all the angles I would want without getting the issues I typically do with attempting a hand help photogrammetry scan. One day I will be able to scan something I need to make a part conform to. I'm not sure yet if it will be photogrammetry or some sort of ir/laser scan yet. The prices are getting more in the range of my hobby interest these days though.

[@mylittleparody2277]

Very nice project! Thanks for showing it.

[@werwin1845]

is it possible to print the "table" where the part to scan is placed bigger? so i can fit bigger parts on it

[@openscan_eu]

Yes, there are also other scanner variants available which fit larger objects (e.g. openscan classic goes up to ~18cm)

[@Jacobk-g7r]

We could use several fields to scan or a single scanner with multiple integrated sensors so the differences can be used and combined to make a better model. Like an electron microscope that uses the electrons to create a field, scanning the object, taking the differences and creating a model. Could just use magnetic fields and tune the sensitivity.

[@autumnleaves4464]

It's a shame that everything is a cloud service these days, but otherwise this is a really cool product

[@openscan_eu]

I totally agree, but we keep the cloud optional, as there are several free and paid offline photogrammetry options available. As part of our core philosophy we won’t sell out nor charge for the free/donation based cloud service at any point. We already have a couple of years under our belt and scalability is already implemented :)

[@AndyLundell]

@@openscan_eu Unfortunately, that's what every service says right up until the day they start charging. Nobody admits it ahead of time.

[@openscan_eu]

@@AndyLundellthis service has been running since ~2021 and I am happy to be reminded of my statements in 10 years ;)

[@Validole]

​@@openscan_euare private donations enough for bandwidth and CPU time, or is there external funding from corporate sponsors? Feels like this would be a lot of data to crunch through, and cloud servers don't run for free.

[@lolmandood]

Just bought one because of your video.

[@johnbillings5260]

I definitely need this in my life! I've been looking for a use for my spare Pi.

[@couryrussell7653]

I have a question about how to dimension these models. What’s the process look like?

[@openscan_eu]

There is an automated scaling done through the cloud processing which can get the overall dimensions to roughly 2%. Alternatively you take a reference measurement on the part and scale it accordingly. This can easily be done with meshmixer

[@Main267]

I'm curious about the meshroom use. Since the indexing of the file names seem to represent the position of the camera and angle of rotation for the turn table could this meta data be fed into it for more accurate reconstruction so it's not trying to calculate the camera positions and angles?

[@openscan_eu]

Theoretically, you could use the positions to skip the alignment step in the software (which is only ~1-5% of total reconstruction time). The problem lies in the accuracy as the measured coordinates are far off the calculated (through photogrammetry), latter are within 0.01mm or less. Ah and the scanner does not know its position in the current form.

[@alexschubert]

Such a cool video. Do you think we'll be able to 3D print prescription glasses? That would be amazing.

[@mikedhaen6878]

I wonder how well it works when you put it in a photo box while scanning.

[@scottpaddock6685]

I bought and built one of these based on your review and have had mixed results. I used a Raspberry Pi v2.1 camera and while It all works, I get pretty rough results- not like yours. I thought maybe the magic is in the Arducam camera, so I picked up one of those and am not having difficulty getting libcam installed. Was there a trick to it? I’ll try again in the morning, and hope it goes better.

[@openscan_eu]

The Arducam drivers are pretty finicky to set up. You can use the precompiled raspbian image instead..

[@scottpaddock6685]

@@openscan_eu Yeah- that's the easier path for sure. I was making the mistake of trying to do an apt update and then upgrade, and the latter is really where it all went sideways. Best left alone I see now.

[@openscan_eu]

@@scottpaddock6685the main issue comes with the arducam drivers - firmware and linux interaction, this is unfortunately quite a pain

[@Michishirube1810]

is it somehow possible to scale it up? so having the chance to scan like double size ???

[@openscan_eu]

There are larger versions available, see openscan classic or midi

[@babbagebrassworks4278]

Going a bit larger means losing resolution, but maybe 50% bigger or for jewelry 50% smaller? Maybe a design where the camera to object distance was adjustable?

[@openscan_eu]

There are different designs available for different applications. Some people built huge versions of this or similar approaches

[@Bitofthisnthat-v1d]

There's some really clever people in this world

[@merrillalbury8214]

Is it possible to make the camera ramp larger so you can shoot larger items?

[@openscan_eu]

yes, there are different variants of the openscan available (e.g. openscan classic which goes up to roughly 18x18x18cm)

[@irweezyy]

Can this scanner be made larger? Im still new to 3d printint but cam i make this at 200%?

[@TeachingTech]

The non mini version may be what you need.

[@SerialChillerBH]

Amazing! This looks like my next project, one thing I didn’t get is how is the processing happens ? I mean does it matter if i use cloud vs local processing, how to do the local processing, this project is what we print for tbh its amazing

[@bowieinc]

A scanner for the purpose of 3D printings has been such a difficult decision for me. Every time I start to pull the trigger, a hesitant as I feel we are hopefully close to Bambu Lab Style Game Changer. Or at least I hope. This project is one step closer.

[@Wyld1one]

Hm. With the shininess on the actual circular part etc. I would put a mat color paint on it. I would also consider putting a neutral colored background around the back side. Similar to what they do for lightbox when you're making scans of pictures and another models for professionally use

[@mthhhjchambefs6629]

Could u use an android phone to take the pictures then still use openscad ?

[@mjsworkshop]

Thanks for the great review.

[@TKs3DPrints]

great video.. i have been looking at this system for a while as i use a lot of scanners.. but since i 3d print items.. its a shame you had the textures on.. as they do not show the true model.. would love a little update of the models shown without the textures.. i would only save the textures if i was going to use them as a displacement map to use in ztool to add details to a model.. but still an interesting video i have used a lot of photogrammetry in the past. now tend to use structured light. etc but i also like the idea of plug and play.. its all the setting up that puts me of getting one. :)

[@djfernando16]

Would be nice if you could scale (up) the device, to scan bigger objects as well

[@openscan_eu]

there are some larger variants available too. the control software can be used with almost any two axis system, so it is relatively easy to scale up the system.

[@Vermilicious]

That seems impressive for something so cheap.

[@warpeggioslab]

BluTak is potentially an unappreciated tool for DIY. Juanito Moore turned me on to using it to hold parts for soldering. I love it for "helping hands" applications.

[@GeorgeGraves]

Have you ran into anything that will scan 2d objects with a phone? OR something that will take in a few phone pics, and does all the prespective, lense and distortion correctiong? It would be so handy to have becuase a lot of time, I just need ot scan where some mounting holes are in relation so something - and don't need or have a 3d scanner with me. It shoudl seems like it would be a easy software thing if you chould calibrate it with something known. Like a dollar bill, or a credit card or something.

[@hippopotamus86]

Makes me think that it would be far better for this to be in an enclosure with controlled lighting. Maybe even green screened so can be removed by the software? Could also easily chromakey out the 3d print too.

[@openscan_eu]

controlled and indirect light is better than sharp light BUT the built-in ringlight is the best lightsource, both due to its polarisation (which cancels any reflections) and its concentricity (not casting any visible shadows)

[@hippopotamus86]

@@openscan_eu Understood, but would at least help eliminate having to make sure there's no sunlight, or anything else that may cast shadows.

[@openscan_eu]

@@hippopotamus86 yes, you should definitely avoid direct sunlight, but I haven’t had any issues with the scanner in a normal office environment and even mobile in my car