Team Associated RC10T Re-release: Full Mechanical Build!

[@ddkiss65]

Nice job!

[@djcutlas1976]

Dude! Thank you so much for this😮! I got A lot done watching this video today. I stopped once I got to the gearbox. I need to get the fast Eddie bearing kit, So that I have bearings everywhere

[@HotTrackRC]

Have fun with it!

[@fencer39]

Nice build info. just got one of these in the UK. You vid is most useful. Thanks

[@HotTrackRC]

Sweet. Enjoy your build!

[@nighthawkj30A4]

Also you painted that RC10T body exactly like Box art.

[@MrSneakyGunz]

Subbed

[@HotTrackRC]

Thanks!

[@nighthawkj30A4]

I have a original 1993 RC10T and i bought the Team Associated RC10T Classic and i love glad they remade it. Only complaint is i wish the instructions and manual where like the old version. Alot of information was left out.

[@HotTrackRC]

Yes, I agree they are going bare bones on the re-re manuals. That's a disappointment but I augment them by looking at the original manuals. I enjoy cross referencing them and studying the differences.

[@amanmovindirt]

o rings go IN the shock caps. not over the shock.

[@HotTrackRC]

I'm intrigued, why do you say so? The manual clearly shows installing the o-ring over the shock body thread in the prior step to installing the cap. There is a relief at the bottom of the shock body thread where the o-ring sits. That allows the cap to thread on and engage the o-ring as it approaches the fully seated position. This prevents the o-ring from being damaged by the thread as the cap is being installed.

[@amanmovindirt]

@@HotTrackRC people have a tendency to over tighten the caps, when the o-ring is on the shock body it'll pinch and sometimes cut and almost always leak. I've found that installing inside the cap, they never pinch, and never leak. I use a pinky finger nail to move home to the top of the threads where there is a relief in the cap for the o-ring. let along the finished look to me is better as the cap is flush with the shock body and no gap between cap and body. to each their own I suppose.

[@HotTrackRC]

Interesting. Thanks.

[@jamespeek3061]

If im remembering correctly, The gold pan hex screws were metric. I used my tamiya driver on those. Go figure!

[@HotTrackRC]

Certain inch and metric hex fastener sizes are very close so it’s hard to tell them apart. The only metric fasteners on the early gold pans were the two motor mounting screws. Even at that time, motors were imported.

[@TenaciouzB]

Great video! Where did you get the felt for the stealth transmission?

[@HotTrackRC]

Thank you! Check out Ebay. Search for "rc10 stealth transmission gasket". There are sponge and felt materials available. The latter has more of the vintage vibe, but I used the sponge material in the build video and liked it.

[@timothycollette8263]

is that pan powder coated or anodized? awesome build!

[@HotTrackRC]

This is a really interesting question, and I haven't totally figured it out. I often deal with aluminum parts that are sent out and "soft" anodized, mainly black. They come back a matte flat black with the same texture that the aluminum went out with. The recent re-re's have a sort of "nodular" surface finish, almost like orange peel in paint and they're a little shiny. But it doesn't look exactly like powder coating either. Powder coating in my experience leaves a very smooth finish. I'm wondering if the pans are being bead or grit blasted before anodizing, creating the surface finish we're seeing. That's what it looks like to me both on the black and gold pans this year.