The Way to the Matterhorn

It has been a long dream of Julia Lyubova as a mountaineer to climb the Matterhorn. The world famous mountain that sits at the top of Zermatt in Switzerland has attracted thousands of climbers over the years. At 4478m it is considered to be one of the most difficult climbs in the Alps. In this film Julia Lyubova and local Zermatt guide Andreas Steindl go on an epic journey to climb to the summit of the Matterhorn. It is no easy task but they make it in 3.5 hours and enjoy the views from a very windy summit. But this is only half of the story, the journey back down is even harder...
A film by Julia Lyubova. Find her on Instagram: @juliainthealps
Entered for the BMC TV Women In Adventure film competition 2021, sponsored by Montane #WAF21
Find out more: www.thebmc.co.uk/waf
We're the BMC. Climb walls, rock, hills, ice or mountains? Join us. www.thebmc.co.uk/join

[@salsanchez2114]

I climbed the Matterhorn solo in 1965. From Hotel Mont Cervin I hiked to the Hörnli Hut and stayed the night. Early the next morning I set off and free climbed this route without much drama. The descent was quite different. Several times I went off route, unfortunately wandering to sections where I had to re-trace my steps. After awhile I was just concentrating on making sure that I was on route and testing each handhold and foothold because a lot of the mountain is incredibly loose. Rock fall, as mentioned by Julia, is one of the foremost dangers. By about 1:00 pm I was back at the hut; I collected my gear and then hiked back down to the hotel for a hot bath and a splendid dinner. I've climbed the Matterhorn a few times since then along with the highest peak in each Western European country and all of the fourteeners in Colorado, but this climb in 1965 stands out as truly memorable. Not a bad accomplishment for a 15-year old from the Junior Colorado Mountain Club.

[@stephenreverski2390]

great story! thanks for sharing

[@Benhutchie22386]

Wow very impressive :D

[@rsimko]

I am glad they included the way down, arguably the most challenging part of the whole climb. I wish somebody filmed the summit with 35-50mm lens to get a real perspective of the drop on both sides. Action cam makes is uncomfortably narrow :)

[@24June91]

Yes, it's frustrating that everyone has to use a fish-eye lens to make it so dramatic. I would like to see how it really looks like

[@linab.6586]

Many times climbers only film and talk about the ascent and do not show how difficult and dangerous the descent is. Great video, many thanks and congrats.

[@cockneybuddhist4713]

I agree on that one. My hands were sweating just watching it!

[@peteskyrunner4845]

Some of those rocks with big cracks between them on the way down look like they could break apart and fall at any moment! That's what would scare me the most.

[@bikescience1]

"La la la, this is perfectly fine". I'll have to remember that song next time I need it.

[@cockneybuddhist4713]

Yep, :-)

[@raphaelwellig5066]

Hello Thank you for the wonderful film about my favorite mountain. Best regards Raphael Wellig

[@cmcer1995]

Great job Julia, that was one heck of an accomplishment even with a guide. Obviously not for the faint of heart either, but you hung in there and over-came your fears. I envisioned myself once upon a time climbing K2 and beyond, but I got older and wiser and thought it's pretty exciting you do it instead.

[@kenpayne3822]

I climbed the Matterhorn in 1990. A wonderful climb. My German guided had made 80 summits. Thank you so much for the memories. So many came rushing back! Thank you again.

[@jocksterDJ]

I hate heights. But love climbing videos. Go figure. Great video. My heart was racing at several points. Well done!

[@Charles-xe2qh]

Bravo! 7 hours round trip seems very quick!

[@anthonyholroyd5359]

Climbed the neighbouring (and considerably easier) Breithorn on Saturday - the Matterhorn is utterly captivating and looking across at it, I promised myself that with a few more years of Alpine experience I'll be back for it some day.

[@mooskamoo]

Great video, makes you think just how insane the early climbers were who went up it without the fixed ropes, incredible!

[@jonathanrehbock8528]

The Matterhorn made such an impression on me when I first saw it in person as a young teenager, it was almost magical. It brings back those memories of imagining of what it must be like to climb. Thanks for sharing your experience

[@trepicks]

Excellent photography and commentary. I enjoyed the climb with you but definitely won’t be attempting the climb myself. Congratulations!

[@PJski]

Thank you for putting this together. Very well done, and one of the more engaging videos on this climb (and descent) I've seen. I love hiking the area - but climbing like this - not for me. Physically - and mentally - it's just not for me (anymore). But... I admire, respect, and revere, those who achieve feats of this magnitude. Thank you for allowing most of us here to experience this vicariously. Cheers!

[@waytothesun4404]

Congratulations!! Hope to climb the Matterhorn someday. Thank you for the information and great video!!

[@rolf_siggaard]

Many thanks for sharing your journey. Congratulations with a successful safe climb. Really appreciate your realistic presentation and fears. Well done.

[@mxxx0404]

Fantastic film, many congratulations - brought back a lot of memories from my climb in 2010, also with Andreas.

[@ericmares8036]

That's the best climbing video I've seen. BTW, I've been to Zugspitze, too, but I took the train. 😅 Congratulations completing the climb. Great job!👍💪🍻👏🥳🎉🙋‍♂️

[@docdoc4526]

Gratulation 🍾🎊🎉 insane pictures, I stand on the Breithorn 2 years ago, this year we went to the hörnli hut, the Matterhorn is a Dream we will see

[@Jesus-MyLife22]

What a guide you had! He is an outstanding alpinist!

[@viper010373]

Amazing. Well done!

[@xenia9931]

Breathtaking!

[@Archie_Haddock]

Great to see some photage of the descent as well and! Well done and keep safe!

[@ikmarchini]

Wonderfully beautiful. How brave you are and worthy of admiration. Brava!

[@timfromdurban]

Great video. Congratulations on your summiting.

[@papajon62]

Great job and congratulations! That was making my palms sweat 😥 just watching

[@pete7110]

Wow amazing.. this mountain is so beautiful, never seen or will experience this climb, thank you :)

[@sbrao169]

Excellent , way down is where lot of climbers have disappeared. Thx for showing it

[@guregorihattofirudo2627]

Mental fatigue characterized by thoughts of expected comfort has always plagued my descents. One wants the descent to just be over and that once led me to a broken leg high up a volcano in winter. There must be some data behind the belief descending is more dangerous, I certainly believe this to be true. Great job and from the look of it the guide was a wise choice

[@hubertlavelle7554]

Thank you for this great video,well done you wonderful woman .

[@expl_o]

Great video!!! Congratulations for your skills!!!! 👏👏👏💪💪💪

[@rickadmiraal9864]

Congratulations on the summit :D i really hope one day to stand there as well and the decent looked scary indd!

[@tommybinson]

Great little documentary, well filmed and edited

[@Vanille1966]

Amazing view. Congrats on your achievement. Super video

[@Pierozek23]

Thanks for sharing!

[@jimf671]

Great work. Made good time. Great presentation. Well done.

[@rehabguiden1]

Thanks for an informative video!

[@AaronLaw1]

Amazing video, thank you

[@kennyhollidayjr5206]

Nicely done!

[@PatrickWoerner]

Congrats on that phantastic climb! I wonder how abseiling was the hardest part?! how did you then manage to cross the breithorn summits?

[@anthonymulcahy1166]

This is mind blowing!

[@olivernilsson3361]

Stunning views

[@BiesenbachKlein]

Thanks a lot ! And Gratulation.👍🏆🌷

[@nodreb123]

I walked up to the base camp in 2001. It was a wonderful hike to get there.

[@V77710]

Getting through an endurance event saying "this is the hardest thing Ive ever done" is such an amazing feeling

[@trailblazer_nomad]

Congratulations! Well done! I don't think I would ever dare to try Matterhorn 😰😰😰

[@darksoul479]

Great job girl. You're crazy!❤

[@lewischappell4411]

Stunning

[@Cornflake520]

That is some insane level of exposition on that summit.

[@ExpatMoe]

Great video thanks

[@chapeauvelu]

Congrats! You're very brave.

[@2007christian]

Very well done!

[@directorsykes2102]

Solid video 👌

[@Piesycho]

Summit scene was powerful

[@jimbojet8728]

Looked like a dawdle to me. Easy enough hey? A nice vid. Thank you.

[@alphabeyta]

You are braver than I could ever be!

[@denmark39]

Well done well done indeed 👏

[@kingcarisma]

Perfect video

[@daveconvoy5793]

Great. And frightening

[@chrisdonahue524]

Good for you! : )

[@alexnuno]

Amazing 👌

[@obozerki]

Amazing 💚

[@raymondthomadwormald9621]

Very well done 👍 indeed

[@stuartturkington826]

Brilliant

[@gerryquinn8925]

Great effort

[@jamielukens9810]

You guys are nuts wow 😬

[@lzandman]

Terrifying! No idea it was this hard.

[@mrJohng1990]

What an inspiration to all woman you are.

[@liam270784]

well done

[@paul8193]

Respect ✊

[@softride12]

What is the vertical gain from the Honli Hut to the summit?

[@lorandsimon5255]

Congratulations.. It is also my dream to be on the summit.. I have a question.. If you want to.. How much it cost the guide? Thank you 🙏

[@brunojanik]

Congrats I’m jealous 😀

[@markfosseth8047]

I would struggle to reach the base hut 🙂

[@plantbasedandwater]

thank you sooo much for this share of your dream💖

[@SuperCheeko12]

Insane

[@ppgedez]

Sweaty hands watching this. 🙂

[@adambane1719]

Wow ! I can't believe a woman could do it. Well done ! ! !

[@homonovo]

Well done Julia lyobova! Remember Kilimanjaro

[@alpinejournalist]

Hey hey Andy! 👋🏻

[@rbelatamas]

nice climb

[@newbeginnings8566]

Terrifying (I can barely watch it even if fascinated) and I'm only watching the video. Only for a special breed of people who can somehow overcome the near death situation they have put themselves in..

[@melodiefrances3898]

Insane.

[@AhtungBUGULMArespublikaTatarst]

Очень много работы в сфере демонтажа многоквартирных домов в городе Бугульма и бугульминском районе республики Татарстана (прибыли гребет пао "татнефть", господствующая высота - над уровнем моря 380 метров над уровнем моря - никогда не было затоплений от дождя как например в Гомельской области Беларусии в мае 2022 года затопило Гомельскую область республики Беларусь, очень много жилья и дёшево стоят квартиры в городе Бугульма и бугульминском районе республики Татарстана)

[@cmacdhon]

The most frightening video on KZbin!

[@benefiet]

Why is the red rope not attached to anchor points? Unnecessary risk it seems.

[@ronl7131]

Descents can be tricky……

[@shakozagaidze]

🤙🏻

[@YnseSchaap]

It's not the most technical climb in the Alps ! it's graded 3. What makes it dangerous is the speed at which you have to do it. Guides require that you climb 400 meters in an hour (from start to the top is 1200 mtrs) Before taking you up you need to do a guided climb up another mountain to show you can do the Matterhorn. If at any time you can't keep up or when the weather turns you will be turned around (all at the guides discretion)

[@michaellinkroum4803]

Hiking up 400 meters in an hour is hard enough not to mention climbing!

[@YnseSchaap]

@@michaellinkroum4803 I walked from the Zermatt to the start of the climb and that in itself is a pretty crispy hike, but one I highly recommend 😁

[@VukManic]

When was ascent? What date? :)

[@alpinejournalist]

28.08.2020

[@Bluefire397]

It boggles my mind how people were able to climb this thing back in the 19th century

[@MrTonycapt]

you seem like a real person

[@koko-nv5ru]

just couldn't watch it , almost sh*t in my pants, it was like me over there scared to death while I was sittign on my chair watching it lol

[@jacquesmertens3369]

Why are climbers connected by a rope? Is that to make sure that if 1 falls, the other(s) go down with him/her?

[@alphabeyta]

The other person is supposed to dig in or jump to the other side of the knife edge to stop them from falling.

[@jacquesmertens3369]

@@alphabeyta Supposing someone really dares to take that decision in a split second, which I highly doubt, it would have to be someone behind the falling person, someone who can actually see it happen. If the person behinds you falls, you would be too late to notice. I wonder what the ratio is between people who have been saved by that rope vs people who have been killed by it.

[@alphabeyta]

@@jacquesmertens3369 True, that's probably why the guide made her stay in front of him since he's very experienced.

[@luciobesici4089]

@@jacquesmertens3369 the guide keeps in his hands several rope hoops as it proceeds forward, if the person behind him falls, he will feel the twists of the rope slip from his hand, giving him the time to do the necessary, in theory.....

[@jacquesmertens3369]

@@luciobesici4089 In my own experience all sports fanatics are mentally deranged adrenaline junkies who only think about themselves. What you describe is probably just a theory. But there could be many good exceptions of course.

[@frankobrien1371]

Why was abseiling so difficult?? Fear?

[@steffkepn2]

Goddamn this mountain, my soul left me while watching you descending...

[@husseinz6972]

تهانينا انه يستحق جداً واتمنى في يوم اكون على قمته

[@peppikacca1074]

do you have the contact details of Andreas Steindl?

[@michaellinkroum4803]

Going up,tough,going down, terrifying!

[@JP-cy1lw]

Absolutely amazing! Wonderful! Thanks for uploading; and thanks for not filming in that damned stupid nerd vertical video.