Climbing Latok 1 from the north

In 2018, the BMC-supported British-Slovenian team of Tom Livingstone, Aleš Česen and Luka Strazar headed to Latok I (7,145m) in the Pakistan Karakoram.
They made the first ascent of Latok 1 from the north, in a seven-day round-trip from basecamp.
The North Ridge of Latok 1 has been a prize for generations of alpinists. However, despite 30 or so attempts on the ridge - often dubbed the Walker Spur of the Karakoram - by a variety of highly talented parties, no one has come even remotely near the high point of c7,000m, achieved on the first ever attempt in 1978 by Jim Donini, Michael Kennedy, George and Jeff Lowe.
These four, arguably the strongest American alpinists of the time, spent 21 days on the ridge climbing over 100 pitches. They had probably surmounted all the difficulties, when a combination of wind, cold and Jeff Lowe’s rapidly deteriorating condition due to altitude sickness, forced a retreat.
Since then the ridge has gained a formidable reputation, enforcing the fact that the 1978 attempt was one of the most impressive in the history of alpine-style in the Greater Ranges.
Tom, Aleš and Luka opted for a safer line on the face in the last quarter, summitting via the West Col and making only the second-ever ascent of Latok I and the first from the North.
Tom, a BMC member, successfully applied to the BMC for a BMC expedition grant and received the highest grade award. Aleš is an IFMGA mountain guide and Luka is an aspirant IFMGA guide.
Thanks to Aleš Česen for making such a great film of the expedition and letting us use it on our KZbin channel.
Camera: Tom Livingstone, Luka Stražar, Aleš Česen, Urška Pribošič, Jure Niedorfer
Editing: Urška Pribošič
Final tweaking: Jure Niedorfer
Tom’s sponsors: Mountain Equipment, Petzl, La Sportiva and Julbo.
We're the BMC. Climb walls, rock, hills, ice or mountains? Join us. www.thebmc.co.uk/join

[@whburton1]

Damn from watching other climbs this make Everest look like a cake walk

[@igorsol9717]

no

[@simonsteinberger2935]

Technically, it definitely is. But it's just a different game. The extreme altitude of Everest is something that Latok doesn't even come close. Hard to compare the two... Thanks for sharing this great footage!!

[@BaronsFarms]

This is what hardcore alpinism is all about

[@nexi29]

Bravo za podvig in hvala za čudovit filmček!

[@davemacleod9623]

Excellent achievment..

[@Ammoniummetavanadate]

That is an amazing route. I remember hearing your episode on the cutting edge. It is great to put faces to names.

[@derSchreii]

Wow thank you for this amazing footage

[@user-nw2si7hu3u]

Wish this was 5x longer video

[@moodwithfood5]

Bravo bro.... ❤

[@sqreon9401]

Tom's psych is unbreakable

[@dabbleonabike]

Really enjoyed this, thanks!

[@dangerdave138]

great episode of the enormocast with tom. nice work guys, jeff would be proud

[@ryanvanhorne5837]

well done.

[@milutinbegovic-orjenskigorstak]

Great Climbing 👊👍💪👍👍👍

[@89tin]

Watching from Cape Girardeau Missouri... good content

[@MMillan]

Amazing, thanks for share !

[@limitless1692]

LIKE Such an adventure :)

[@timurakbashev]

Great ascent 🎉. Did you climbed same route, which tried to climb twice Alexander Gukov?

[@QueryRoom]

молодцы, и с погодой повезло

[@user-gp2yy9qj1s]

amassing, guys!

[@worldtoday9244]

Amazing

[@thomasbrown6169]

Not to overlook how incredible this climb and documentary are, but I have a question. What type of bindings are those that allow you to use your mountaineering boots?

[@xaverzweigenbaum1603]

Silvretta 400 or 404, something like this.

[@climbingkid7]

Sick film @teamBMCTV ... any chance you know what the music track is starting at the 8min mark?

[@greenframer]

elite

[@Hojiii]

British guy is awesome sauce. He needs fun climbing partners.

[@user-nw2si7hu3u]

What’s a better boot the scarpa or the Sportiva??

[@igorsol9717]

All + Lowa )))

[@user-nw2si7hu3u]

@@igorsol9717 lowa look good but not comfortable for me the soles are always just very flat hard rubber and too thin

[@adammiller9179]

Also Mammut makes the Norwand boot

[@gdoldays9964]

The English lad looked like a 'Third Wheel' in this 😂 but he got some good footage for his troubles.

[@ThomasWuyts]

Well, to be fair, he's the only one documenting and he wouldn't get his camera out on his own more challenging leads...

[@gdoldays9964]

@@ThomasWuyts Obviously...(French Guy "2 Years Later ..." 😂

[@sergejmaher144]

This was the only the 2nd full ascent of latok 1 in history, and won a very big award. He didnt just get some footage like a youtuber he went down in history