Tech Tip 35 CH250 Engine Hanger Bushing Replacement

How to remove the outer engine hanger bushing on a Honda Elite 250 (CH250). See Randy Pozzi Tech Tip #35 in the CH250HondaElite Yahoo Group for more details.
1986 CH250:
Engine Hanger Outer Bushing - Right = 11103-KJ9-750
Engine Hanger Outer Bushing - Left = 11104-KJ9-751
Engine Hanger Inner Bushing (same both sides) = 11105-KJ9-750
Honda recommends using MolyKote BR 2 Plus grease.

[@davefloyd9443]

It is possible to break the bush mounting 'ears' clean off of the crankcase. Do as shown here and dont pound on them too hard. A draw bolt tool is another less intrusive method. Ask me how I know....😢

[@sebastianjaramillo7210]

Any idea if these engine mounts will fit on a 1985 Honda elite 150?

[@timothypatterson6115]

Appreciate the video! Could you please explain how you removed the rear clutch sleeve? I got the housing and front plate but cannot seem to get the back plate and sleeve off

[@BradStone-1]

Hi Timothy. I am not sure exactly to what you are referring by the rear clutch sleeve. Do you have the CH250 Honda Service Manual? If not, send me a private message by visiting my channel page (kzbin.infoabout) and clicking on the Business Inquiries email link.

[@timothypatterson6115]

Hello Brad I appreciate your response! How do you have the service manual and it skips over the part where the driven face is being taken off of the scoot itself. Chapter 8-11/12 Shoes how the movable driven face is removed but not the stationary driven face. After removing the guide rollers as well as the collar I just have a stainless steel sleeve (that has the bearings within) and the driven face that I can’t seem to remove..

[@BradStone-1]

@@timothypatterson6115 OK. It has been a long time since I did this repair, and I sold the scooters a couple of years ago so I am going from memory here. If I recall, the entire Driven Face assembly containing the clutch, movable and stationary face comes off in one piece. It sounds like you have done that and also removed the clutch (pg. 8-10). I seem to recall that my movable driven face and driven face were stuck together really hard with dried grease - which really kills performance. The bottom of 8-10 shows the steps to remove the seal collar. The top of 8-11 shows pulling the guide roller pins and guide rollers. At this point, I think that the two should slide apart. I seem to recall that it was tough to remove them because of the gunk, but once they were pulled apart, cleaned and greased, they slide really easily. On the other hand, I could be totally wrong. There used to be an amazing CH250 Yahoo Group before Yahoo killed it off. Try Googling CH250 riders group or something to see what you can find. I recall that there was a Facebook group too that was helpful. Sorry that I can't be of more help. I just am not in this world anymore.

[@timothypatterson6115]

@@BradStone-1 Thank you a ton Brad definitely super helpful! Yeah I think that’s my issue is just stuck from old grease and being seated on there from age. I’m gonna see if I can get a puller to draw that thing loose. Appreciate it once again!

[@kylefossvh]

Do you remember the source for the bushings? I have the same problem as shown in the previous video

[@BradStone-1]

Hi Kyle. My records show that I purchased these bushings partsfish.com. Looks like they still have them in stock. 11104-KJ9-751 Bushing, L. Engine Hanger (Outer) 11103-KJ9-750 Bushing, R. Engine Hanger (Outer) 11105-KJ9-750 Bushing, Engine Hanger (Inner) - x2 Lube engine hanger bushings with molybdenum disulfide grease (containing more than 3% molybdenum disulfide, NLGI #2 or equivalent). MolyPaste is different. I used: MOLYKOTE BR-2 Plus High Performance Grease It is a pain to buy a large container for this expensive grease for a small job, but my thought is that I NEVER want to have to do this replacement again, so do it right. :^)

[@davidl7134]

Will this stop my rear from being loose please help

[@BradStone-1]

Hi David. Not sure what you mean by "rear being loose". The engine hanger bushings hold the engine to the frame. In my case, they didn't have any give in them, so the vibration from the motor was transferred directly to the frame. I suppose if they were completely gone, it could cause your engine to move a bit in the frame which could be described as "loose".

[@uziXwraith]

was this why it was shaking so bad???????

[@BradStone-1]

You are referring to the previous video "The Mystery of the Vibrating Scooter" (kzbin.info/www/bejne/jmHRgmuJrM2Di6c). Early indications are that these engine hanging bushings were the problem. They are supposed to rotate and slide, but were seized solid effectively welding the engine to the frame. I have some more carburetor work to do before the engine runs correctly, so hopefully we will know for sure soon.

[@BradStone-1]

The scooter runs smooth now!