How Watch Brands Cut Corners - 13 Examples

[@steveyoo97]

Teddy, I think your follow up video could cover the converse: brands that go above and beyond on seemingly minor things

[@forgettmenot]

waiting for this! I’ve not been in the watch game for more than a few months, but after handling and buying multiple entry levels and mid-high range going into Omega, Cartier, Glashütte Original etc, I really want to give credit to Tudor. Finishing wise it is by far the best quality watch from start to finish, and physical interaction with the crown and bezel (if there is one) is superb.

[@enginesonmute]

Just talk about grand seiko the whole time

[@charleschaimkohl]

@@enginesonmute 😂

[@tim9241]

Agreed, would even be nice to see a ranking, but I’m not sure if ranking brands is Teddy’s style…

[@waffle911]

Like Traska using perlage on the milled clasp

[@acunacorporations]

This is definitely one of your stand out videos, I love that you were unafraid to critique some of the watches and brands that you carry in your shop for the sake of giving people a good perspective (also gives you a plethora of B roll)

[@Scuba72Chris]

On the subject of accuracy, I own a Seiko 5 which was running pretty fast when I first got it. I wasn't too worried by that because it was an inexpensive watch. A few months later I was in my local watch repair shop having a vintage watch restored and I mentioned the issue with my Seiko. The guy kindly took it into his workshop, regulated it and handed it back to my after a few minutes, free of charge. Since then it has been keeping fantastic time.

[@sylinmino]

Pins and Collars aren't always a corner cutting bit. Pins and Collars genuinely have more durability long term and result in a stronger fit bracelet. Screws are prone to stripping in the long term. Patek moved to Pins and Collars because the non-thick links also needed thin screws that really wore down over time and resulted in, what I've heard as, a lot of broken bracelets. Screws are easier to adjust on your own for sure, but one is not objectively better than the other.

[@caktaylor]

The only system that has failed me is screw links. Bracelets with pin and collar or split pin systems may be a bit more difficult to size (emphasis on MAY), but they stay in place and just work.

[@wuhanclan]

Some screw systems are actually HARDER to adjust on your own. If you have screws on both sides stick from loctite, you aren't going to remove those with only screwdrivers. The tool required is significantly more expensive than pin sleeve tools. Screws only have a better aesthetic and I firmly believe they actually don't have any practical advantages.

[@sylinmino]

@@caktaylor somewhere down in Watch KZbinr lineage it feels like one or two KZbinrs started this trend of claiming screws were objectively better, and then it just kinda stuck.

[@jrgdrumsandwatches]

A few years ago my Rolex Sub 14060 fell of my arm to the ground as I didn't notice one screw getting lose. My worst watch experience ever. Since then I check the bracelets with screwed links regularly. Never had an issue with pins.

[@QoraxAudio]

Well said. Fully agreed.

[@ScoobieDoobie197474]

If a brand can put out a $100 watch and have everything line up there is no excuse for a brand like Seiko not being able to line things up

[@junwoojang2941]

I agree, especially other brands in competition such as citizen seems to have significantly less issues than Seiko.

[@MrR2185]

Even my 50 dollar Casio Duro has lined up bezel and indices. Something costing 10x more should be the same...I think.

[@SuicideVan]

@@junwoojang2941 which is funny, for me I've had good luck with my Seikos, but my Navihawk A-T is misaligned, and it bugs me as a quartz movement the second hand doesn't line up on each tick.

[@highwaystar3780]

I have a few watches ranging from $60 to $14k. The Only watch which has Multiple Inexcusable Defects visible even with my practically legally Blind Left eye is a Seiko Presage or CockaTiel they call it. One of the flaws is someone's Greasy disgusting EyeLash stuck to the Crystal. I don't give a Fuck for Names, Cost, or Prestige. I bought those watches for their design. Every watch tells SAME time. But many have mentioned about Seiko

[@highwaystar3780]

Shit quality control!!

[@BartMan59]

Your point about naming movement, well those "sneaky brands" known for this in some models are: Hublot, Tag Heuer, and very disappointing to say, but... Panerai and IWC.

[@emu314159]

Funny thing about too small movements in too big cases, doesn't ETA still make the old pocket watch movements? Those seem tailor made for this stuff. Hublot is kind of for people who still like to rev their engine at a city stoplight. "Dude, you can't even race here anyway. And the road isn't wide enough, and even empty you'd probably hit that electric pole."

[@itsalgud1459]

I think this is one of your best videos to date Teddy. You make a lot of very good points though I don’t agree with you on all of them. then again, some things that don’t bother me bother other people very much. I showed a picture of my $130 citizen Eco Drive recently, and someone asked me how well the The second hand aligned with the markers! I replied that it was $130 watch and I never looked. This is where people get completely out of touch with reality sometimes. And this is another area where I agree with you when you set price limits on what to expect from a watch. so thanks again for putting together all these facts in one place, it’s really helps me decide what is important to me and what is not in evaluating a watch within a given price range. Good job!

[@cjblazer385]

Thank you for mentioning Seiko’s QC issues. I bought a not inexpensive (for me) Seiko last year ($600) and the alignment is very noticeably off. On top of that there is a speck of dust on the dial that is visible to the naked eye when light hits it. On closer examination under macro, there was a lot more dust. The thing that really bothers me is, I REALLY love everything about this watch itself. What I mean is, I love the design, the strap, the fit, the look, the quality (of the movement and construction/finish) … everything. Everything I hate about this watch comes down to avoidable quality issues that I feel are just, lazy. It is so frustrating. The other thing I don’t understand is, I have an older Seiko SNK that was like $100. There is zero dust on the dial, even under macro. So at some point Seiko did have good QC. My Orient watches also are very well aligned and have no dust (maybe just luck but I hear similar things from others). Orient is under the Seiko brand if I am not mistaken, although also its own separate thing. So totally possible at lower price range to have great QC even on mechanical watches at lower price points. I really like the higher end Seikos and I am always eyeing them, again for what they are, quality and design of the watch itself. but at my budget $1000+ for a watch with these issues would be really upsetting.

[@whereisvanuatu]

Not trying to be a smartass here, but why did you not get it back to the seller under warranty?

[@energeez]

was it used. i got that issue when a guy replaced a battery. maybe it was opened by some guy

[@trinity3422]

Congrats on the success of your channel Teddy. It’s great to see a watch channel grow into its own and be respected by many!

[@fdadrtrttewrt]

I sold my Seiko SKX007 because of the misalingment. It drove me mad everytime I wore it. If you arent going to do it right then dont do it at all. Another exellent video!

[@korien8976]

I bought a Seiko Presage recently and since it has hacking I set it after the atomic clock. I was very positively surprised when I discovered it runs only three second slow per day. That's really solid.

[@Jeren6924]

Nais, I got a Presage coming my way. Which one did you buy?

[@fearstiers6730]

Thats nice, mine with the 4R36 runs +13sec...

[@halukonal1400]

@@fearstiers6730 give it some time, mine was hectic when I first bought it. After a year, it has +-3 sec a day and on average those seconds usually cancel each other

[@korien8976]

@@Jeren6924 The one with the green sunburst dial. It's gorgeous. I'm saving up for the Sharp Edged Rose Gold at the moment.

[@QoraxAudio]

Same here. Bought an SRPG23J1 that runs nicely accurate. However, they definitely cut corners on the metal bracelet. Stamped sheet metal clasp and a lot of play in the pins/links.

[@lutylives1852]

On the accuracy point: I was really put off mechanical watches as a whole initially because of the wide tolerances for timekeeping - however I have since been stunned by my Makara Sea Turtle, with a humble NH35a movement, which stays within a second of atomic time for days. Crazy. It really is all about what the brand does with whatever movement they have.

[@emu314159]

Remember, they kicked Japan (mostly Seiko) out of the european observatory competitions after they started mopping the floor in the 60s. Swiss can be very very good on the higher end, but if you want to spend X dollars and get Y performance, that equation usually solves for Seiko. Also, don't sleep on Glasheutte. German engineering. Nuff said.

[@edyu21]

Teddy, I think your videos are very honest and they age well. Watch KZbinrs can get annoying after you listen to them for a while but you do give out a good vibe. I agree with many of your viewpoints on this video. Thank you.

[@RogerMillerInVA]

Teddy, you're right on all of those, but especially on the lume issue. A lot of us rely on our watches to help us in dark, dangerous, or dirty jobs. Lume is as important to my watch needs as headlights are on a car.

[@huckinator]

0:05 me as a health care worker 😂😂😂 but on a serious note, one thing that keeps me subscribed to your channel over some other Watch reviewers are your ability to have realistic expectations. In some of these reviews people just have all these “negatives” about a watch and it’s just completely unrealistic to expect at some of the price points. They almost have to TRY to find stuff to say is bad about a certain watch.

[@brianmsahin]

Excellent video Teddy, some great points there. I would add just one more example of labor saving, or inattention to detail. I got a Tissot PRX quartz Stainless Steel, paid around $400 for it and not ONE time did the seconds hand hit a marker. Ok it's not a high price but I expected more from a Swiss brand. It made it look like a cheap $50 watch. My G-Shock GG-1000 Mudmaster at about half the price of the Tissot hits every marker spot on along with handling numerous other functions. Tissot just had to do one thing. Ensure it hit the markers. It's the reason I didn't keep it, sold it quickly and only lost a few dollars on it, but for me, not lining up the movement to the dial is shoddy and just shows a lack of customer care.

[@silverwolfgecko7064]

Yeah same. It annoyed me as well, but being a novice I didn't know how much to expect at that price point and now I've gotten used to it. It also helps that it's a stunning watch😂

[@brianmsahin]

@@silverwolfgecko7064 Yes, totally get that, I've been collecting for a good few years now, and I suppose my OCD was triggered. Lol!. I understand you getting used to it, but when you can find a $75 Casio watch you might get in a general store that hits all the markers you wonder did you get what you should have expected for the money you paid. It's a very nice watch but they should have got that right, and all it took to do it was a small realignment. Anyway, never mind my rant, enjoy the watch!! :)

[@KadeishaJalomo]

As always the most thoughtful , well researched & eloquent watch channel around , keep AMZWATCH coming !

[@pkmnmaster760]

To be honest, I'm fine with cost cutting as long as it's passed down to the consumer and doesn't make a big impact on quality or visuals--pin links, hidden date movements won't massively affect my enjoyment of the watch but if I can get tens of hundreds of dollars off with them than without, I'll take it. Some of the more noticeable cost cutting measures that I'll see every day like stamp clasps or etched crowns I can definitely understand being annoying. I guess the only exception is on premium or luxury watches where I'm paying for the quality and expect nothing to be left to desire.

[@highwaystar3780]

It's NEVER passed down to Consumer.

[@jodysilvia2]

Great job Teddy, I hope brands watch,listen and implement these suggestions.

[@dBsdecibels]

I'd also add limited power reserves. When the price starts creeping up, I think 50+ hrs becomes basically mandatory. Quite a few companies get into the $2k+ price point, but still offer only a 38hr power reserve.

[@kuongsam2314]

70 hrs automatic or 8 days mecanical with mediocre isochronism are common issues..

[@Enrico-]

why tho

[@dBsdecibels]

@@Enrico- Because it costs less money to have less power reserve than it does to have more.

[@Mikey___]

Awesome video, I do think that one of the most prolific cost cutting measures used to drive demand is regularly releasing 'revisions' of existing watches that are essentially the same as the previous version - there are a couple of very popular brands who benefit hugely from this!

[@ahslan18]

Great video. One thing that always is a pet peeve of mine is a watch without a screw down crown that has decent water resistance (say 100m). I honestly don't know if that's a cost cutting measure or a conscious decision. I know it's a controversial topic, but for me, it really gives me that peace of mind that the crown won't be moving while underwater.

[@austingandy2650]

Teddy this is a really fantastic video. Particularly, it was super interesting to hear more details about the manufacturing processes involved in creating watches. I'd really love to see more content that speaks at this level of detail (or more) about the various manufacturing processes involved. Specifically, I had no idea how guilloche actually got added to dials. I'd love to hear more about other small details that involve significant work and attention to make happen with particularly high-end watches

[@69fastfurious]

Agree 100 % , explain what’s an enamel dial ? Or bezel , types of hardness metal cases or bracelets , or what’s the dial diameter not including the bezel or his is what lots of KZbin channels watch reviews should do like those little details nobody think about them buy a online watch because the photo is fully lume but for how long ? Very good Teddy hopefully this is an open eye to lots of watch enthusiast would like to know 💯👍

[@ralphyoung9482]

Brilliant video. You hit the nail on the head in all the areas you discussed. Well done.

[@rangermadeknives]

Recently bought a Deep Blue Patriot. Love the watch...except, there was absolutely no effort put into breaking the sharp edges on the back of the case and the engineer bracelet. It was not a big deal for me since I'm a custom knifemaker with a shop full of tools designed to do jobs exactly like that. Took me ten minutes to make the watch far more comfortable on the wrist. If I were the average consumer, I would have returned it.

[@TheDonCucaracho]

I've heard terrible things about their customer support

[@ccallejabarcia]

Watches and knives...both are my hobbies too!

[@saqz11]

just wondering why you'd buy that watch?

[@rangermadeknives]

@@saqz11 I love tritium gas tubes. I wear a watch 24/7 and when I wake up in the middle of the night or I'm in the woods in the dark, I like to be able to look at my watch and see what time it is. Saphire crystal, ceramic bezel insert, 300m water resistant, clean dial with T100 tubes and a reliable Seiko movement for $350...with a bracelet. There's nothing else that comes close. Next closest watch is the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II for about $2300. Obviously the Ball has a Swiss movement so, it's worth a little more but, probably not $1950 more.

[@ss9749]

When I’m camping, I only care about two times: night time and day time.

[@JahangirMohan]

As always the most thoughtful , well researched & eloquent watch channel around , MAMACOO keep coming !

[@ag-om6nr]

Excellent criticism ! I hope the manufacturers are listening !

[@statlerwaldorf7130]

Teddy, you are so diplomatic and passionate about watches, great video 😁

[@EricThomason]

11:09 I’ve had this exact Seiko watch for months and just now noticed that the bezel and chapter ring are misaligned in the exact same way as the example here in the video…now I can’t unsee it.

[@emu314159]

It's worse when you have quartz and the second hand can only move in jumps that don't match the markings ever. One advantage of mechanicals.

[@scottsj4625]

Nice job with this video. It is the first I have seen pointing out shortcuts and flaws. Seiko is famous for misalignment for sure. Even in their 1000-dollar watches.

[@ralfrufus3691]

Buy Grand Seiko instead.

[@daniellien6704]

Teddy, really appreciate you using specific examples for this corner-cutting. Not only does it help us identify corner-cutting in our watch journey, but it definitely helps your objectivity as a reviewer 👍

[@oumpaloompa7772]

Is Olev or oupinke a good brand

[@jasonjones6208]

I love my Longines 37mm Spirit with an amazing dial and value for money. My small criticism is the sharp edges on the lugs. I feel it should have been smoothed out somehow. I have other watches with brushed finish where I can pass my finger over the lug and don’t feel a rough edge.

[@1RunnerDad]

Some of these definitely educated me. As I continue my journey in deciding on my one-and-done automatic watch, this kind of thing is very helpful. Thanks!

[@longotown]

Always love your open honesty - big fan for that trait.

[@johnbecker1996]

I've always wondered about the water resistance ratings. When 200m means it's ok to go swimming, 100m is ok in the shower, and 30m means if it gets splashed you need to use a hair dryer and a bag of rice, things are more than a little bit off. But we've come to accept these ratings as they are. We've seen a video demonstrating how big a shock the G-Shock can actually handle; how about another demonstrating the actual water resistance of a few different watches?

[@ralfrufus3691]

I agree 100 percent. It is nothing short of a betrayal with these fake water resistance ratings.

[@bikeman123]

Think about it as water pressure rather than water depth. You may swim at the surface but your hands may move very quickly through the water so be subject to far higher pressure. Likewise the water from a running tap can easily exceed the pressure at 100m depth.

[@caktaylor]

You can start with the Hydraulic Press Channel here on KZbin. They test different types of items, including watches. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pJSZooOZZb2dl8U

[@ralfrufus3691]

@@bikeman123 Both nonesense. Try it. Put 10 bar pressure on your watch and see what will happen.

[@NeoWahNah]

@@bikeman123 LOL. No way... seriously.

[@coachmigueldiaz9535]

For me it is cutting corners when they charge you up to 600 bucks for a seiko that carries the same movement as one for less than 300. Even they specify the ranges... they are still charging more than double for the same movement.

[@ChromeMan04]

Agreed. I hate that.

[@Enrico-]

Seiko makes sub-300$ watches?

[@coachmigueldiaz9535]

@@Enrico- Here in europe pretty much all the seiko 5 is below 300. Not the new GMTs

[@thomasleobacher4777]

Teddy, I have purchased a DOXA SUB 200 in yellow (Divingstar) this year and I can tell DOXA has improved the lume. Even after 1,5 hours I was able to read all details on the dial , hands and on the bezel. The upgrade should be recognized on the crown icon which is matching the color of the dial instead of the orange fish icon used for all color versions.

[@ericgrace9995]

Yep...I noticed that too. On the latest models, the "Jenny Fish" now matches the dial. I guess that's a "con" comment above mine. Are you going to contact the channel ?

[@barrelvisor]

Excellent list - it appears that the price point is the significant factor with what a consumer is prepared to accept or expect. Price goes up, expectation does - perhaps exponentially more.

[@j.j.h.atemycereal]

Great video, Teddy. I have an Oris Diver 65 and I’m totally fine with its water resistance. Personally, one of the first thing I look for is an adjust-on-the-fly clasp. It’s 2022. There’s no reason why almost ANYONE can’t include this on a bracelet.

[@ivanharlokin]

I agree. That said, I thought that making the Carl Brashear limited edition with 'only' 10ATM, was a bit of a mistake. He was a famous diver with an inspiring story, so the watch to commemorate him should really have been capable of being used as an actual dive watch.

[@ryantannehill2830]

100m is plenty of depth for almost all diving.

[@ivanharlokin]

@@ryantannehill2830 No, it isn't. 10 ATM (100m) is sufficient for swimming, and snorkeling. It is NOT suitable for diving. It does not in any way mean that you can submerge to a depth of 100m.

[@garyboyle695]

@@ivanharlokin It is perfectly fine for diving, just not saturation diving. It meets the ISO 6425 certification so it's a true dive watch. Maybe you should read up on it!

[@ivanharlokin]

@@garyboyle695 You are wrong. Go and read the specifications of the Carl Brashear Oris, and the guidelines for 10 ATM, and stop perpetuating ignorant bollocks.

[@QoraxAudio]

5:30 yeah... that surprise is what I got when I bought my Seiko Presage SRPG23... These Presage watches themselves are very nice, don't get me wrong, but they definitely cut corners with the straps and bracelets! 12:10 You forgot another type alignment on quartz watches: the second hand that doesn't align with the indices...

[@oumpaloompa7772]

Is Olev or oupinke a good brand

[@QoraxAudio]

@@oumpaloompa7772 I have no idea. I love quality watches, but I'm not a watch connoisseur.

[@9443-c5b]

Great video Teddy, your point on accuracy is my absolute pet peeve! Say hello to John!

[@UserKR13]

I wish Teddy uploaded a video every day

[@SillytanN]

this is one of the best purchase guides out there

[@QualityTimeWatches]

LOVE this type of video Teddy!!!!❤️😎⌚️✌️

[@switzknight]

I agree will all your points save the one about the bracelet and clasps. Major brands have made us to think that good quality bracelet and clasp are only possible for high end and premium prices. Things are changing and fabrication process too. Now we have some very satisfying bracelets and quick adjusting clasps from brands like Nodus, Christopher Ward, Halios or Monta for exemple at very affordable prices. So it is possible to do it. Most brands don't even try, sure off the old beliefs.

[@TheAussiePencil]

Teddy, thanks so much. This was your best video in a while - I much prefer deep dives and analysis with a focus or theme across the watch market than reviews/focus on just one watch model. Gives you the chance to show off your expertise far more! 💪 Thanks so much!

[@mrxgaming7807]

Hi,just came across your channel,& I'm into it like I have been seeing it from years,you developed my interest in watch world,very charismatic personality you have,,and I can listen to you all day long,🙂😍

[@alexappleby8677]

Great video, and makes me even more happy with my Rotary Henley Seamatic. Got to be one of the best starter watches. The Miyota 8215 has the hacking update, and has been regulated fantastically well, runs at about -3 secs a week. Ceramic bezel, sapphire crystal, dail lines up perfectly, 300m, no stamped clasp all for less than £200 (on offer, when I bought it). Just so long as you're a fan of the Cyclops 😉

[@raven_of_zoso455]

This is good points to where I think the gap between a $100 watch and a $100.000 watch really isn't that far off in many cases. Also, the watch in my collection which easily comes out the best in regards to specs and performance is actually a $220 piece from China (really well made milled clasp, nice and clean dial, indexes and hands, incredible bezel action, smooth bracelet, well finished case and bracelet, a -4 s/d NH35-A movement, 20 bar wr, ceramic bezel insert, and BGW9 Superluminova which is still visible after a night's sleep). I have several nice Swiss watches, and frankly they all have their minor shortcomings. The second best watch I have in regards to specs is probably the Tissot PRX p80.

[@oumpaloompa7772]

Is Olev or oupinke a good brand

[@raven_of_zoso455]

@@oumpaloompa7772 I have not experienced them first hand, so I can't really say. The only two brands I have bought from Ali Express is San Martin and Sugess/Sea-Gull, those I can recommend. Some years ago I had a Forsining (or something like that it's called, I wasn't really interested in watches back then, I just wanted something with a calendar function that was automatic), and I guess that might be a closer level to Olev and Oupinkie, basically it wasn't particularly accurate, but it was my everyday beater for four years, but eventually the rotor fell off the movement, also before that the crystal cracked for apparent reason. Finish was ok for the price.

[@IngWeldon]

Outstanding video.I have to go with the MAMACOO, especially with that green dial as my favorite

[@kevinjamesdawes7223]

You're correct with micro adjust. I bought a vintage alfex chrono on SS strap. It has micro holes but the strap ends are stepped so can't slide into the clasp. And the lume really pisses me off. I bought a swiss lume kit for £24 and that would do a couple of hundred dials and it's bright. No excuse for rubbish lume. Even that kids lume paint is better than most of the stuff they use.

[@chrisgrieves1468]

Going the extra mile. That's what you do, Teddy. 612k subscribers says that's appreciated.

[@thebritishindian1]

Very informative. I love these videos which educate me on insider knowledge of the watch industry.

[@andyholton7959]

This was like therapy 🤙🏻 now we need a watch that covers everything we just talked about 🙌

[@ralfrufus3691]

What about Rolex?

[@YechielAlawadhi]

Been watching your videos for a while now and was inspired to start a collection. Started with the MAMACOO, its specs for price and clean looks, now am looking for a dress watch to add.

[@DanielleSvenson]

AMZWATCH is one of my favorite watch manufacturers they do offer beautifull dials, good workmanship & moovements.That smooth sweeping second hand is truly mesmerizing！

[@EEE_MMM]

One More thing: warranty! I've never had any negative experiences myself, but there are plenty of horror stories about issues not being handled properly by the service department of X watch manufacturer. This is how you turn people away from your brand for good.

[@jpdemer5]

How about the "moon phase" watches that stick the moon dial on a 31-day calendar mechanism? Cheap, sure, but it's off by 3-4 days at the end of every month.

[@arnovda9479]

Great video! I would add a deep rehaut as a typical sign of less premium watches. However, the last point isn't really valid. If you regulate a Seiko properly you can easily get it running within a few seconds a day..

[@MrKanjidude]

Great video. It can be argued that its just a matter of design, but the stamped waffle pattern dial on the Tissot Le Locle was the main reason I decided not to get it. Looked cheap and busy.

[@martinvandenbroek2532]

Sharp observation you made with regards to accuracy and Mido watches. I owe quite a number of Midos and also the non chronometers run damn accurate. Same goes for the few Certinas I owe.

[@erginguneysf]

A very nice video and a great compilation. Many thanks! I have a somewhat off-topic question: What's the watch on your wrist in the video? It looks pretty handsome and I'm a bit bummed by the fact that I couldn't recognize it.

[@AlessandroGenTLe]

Teddy, while I understand that pins&collars are less refined, I never ever have them to fail on me, while the screws of my Rolex, Omega and Panerai (at the lugs) have happened to get unscrewed and even lost (Omega), nearly causing the watch to fell and been heavily damaged. So, in the end, I prefer them! Clasps: you can get machined bracelets with screws and machined clasps for 30$ on Ali, that form of "saving money" is just ridiculous, considering they then sell the very same bracelet (with pins and stamped clasps) for A LOT of money...

[@benstoyles1297]

I'd always wondered if high-end watches had this issue. I wasn't sure if Rolex et al had better machining on the threading that made them stay in.

[@AlessandroGenTLe]

@@benstoyles1297 in the end I learned to use a tiny bit of medium threadlocker on them and solved the problem :)

[@VikrantLudhra]

You showed that Hublot with its screws not aligning that is really annoying for me thought you would mention that since it got coverage in the video

[@jendres28]

Unique topic and very insightful. Thanks Teddy!

[@QuackLoud]

Really fun video. One point I'd like clarified is on Water Resistance, since your comments seem to be 180 degrees from most other horologists on KZbin. So many of your peers have been saying that 100 meters of WR is only for splashing at the beach but not swimming and definitely not for real scuba diving. If you could do a video on WR it would be appreciated.

[@morbideddie]

Yeah, loads of information from channels on WR ratings. a 100m watch can take 100m of static water pressure. Dynamic pressure is a factor, but it's incredibly minor in the grand scheme of things.

[@aaronparayil7847]

Hi Teddy. Big fan. Been watchin your videos for a long time. Just one point I wnted to add. For example, when you mentioned about pins and collars, I must admit I had no clue what you were talking about. I would love it when you explain these points, if you could show some examples of what you mean. I know I might seem not so knowledgeable on watches. But I also look up to people like you to learn hese things. Hope you take this point onboard.

[@fedomandez]

The 30m WR for Panerai is not silly. It's a CRIME

[@ivanharlokin]

It really is unforgivable. They are capable of producing a watch of the same dimensions with 10 ATM (such as the Radiomir PAM 00574 / 620), but simply chose not to, presumably to save money.

[@makxsh1mum]

My first "adult" watch was sadly, the Panerai Luminor Due...didn't even think about the water resistance when looking for watches originally. Still love the watch itself, but annoyed at myself for not educating myself better.

[@Klingonmastr]

Citizen has a stiletto Eco Drive model that has ZERO water resistance. I can't believe they would do that. Even a cheap dress watch should have at leas 30M water resistance. I guess that is what happens when you make a watch case super thin.

[@Jdinaz]

Really thoughtful video. We’ll organized and supported. Thanks Teddy

[@jasonhindle4054]

Lovely summary. Bracelet adjustment. I trust this to skilled professionals so don’t care about pin/collar/screw. That said, I have an Ali Express watch I bought for business trips to interesting places that has a rather ingenious (if cheap feeling) no tool adjustment system. As for the ghost date, this is the curse of the Ali Express watch but should not be a thing in Swiss watches. No ifs, no buts, no excuses! An inexperienced user could inadvertently muck about with the ghost date during the hours death! As for accuracy, my cheap Ali Express watch runs at +2, but my more expensive watches are close enough. That’s just luck. You should be able to divide the stated tolerances by two! Headology 101.

[@ulig12]

I tend to disagree with your opinion on screwed links vs pin and collar. Whenever I have trouble resizing a bracelet, it is usually with screws. Screws that are so tight you cannot get them out without damaging something. Threadings that don‘t work. Screws that nearly fall out just from regular wear. Double screws that need two tools and three hands to operate, etc. Pin and collar in my experience is as easy to use and much less troublesome.

[@caktaylor]

Completely agree. I shouldn't need to buy a tube of Loctite to size a bracelet.

[@Daavi85]

I've gone back and forth over the years as to whether screw links are actually better than the pin and collar systems since it seems that of late screw links have been marketed as the better "higher end" way to do it and while I know why it's a more expensive process to produce is it actually a more secure way? I'm not convinced that it is especially when we're talking about tiny screws that are fastening a moving, pivoting link which can lead to the screw loosening and backing out over time while a friction fit pin and collar system doesn't really have this issue, as far as ease for sizing both require having a good tool but screws can be more easily marring up by using an ill fitting screwdriver, yes the pin and collar is actually cheaper to produce but in reality that simplicity is a proven very secure way of fastening the bracelet links, I will say that screws offer a nice finished look which is the one plus over pins I can see and some people may equate that with quality but these are just some of my thoughts from experience on both systems.

[@Zeeraha]

On the topic of non-hacking premium movements, there a background to it, more than just "it is cost savings not to includena hacking lever". Top brands like Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and even Zenith are using proven classical movement designs back from the 1960s which back then have been redesigned through multiple iterations in order to have almost perfect chronometric performance (for a mechanical watch). When adding a hacking lever mechanism to a such well established design, it is extremely expensive to change the production machinery, plus there is a risk that new design will have compromised performance and reliability. On a side note, having a hacking function on a chronograph, it actually makes no sense because without hacked movement in your way, you can move watch hands out of the chrono register line of sight while the chrono is still running, if you need a clear readout.

[@andrewaylward7654]

Very good episode Teddy! Thanks.

[@genghiska1538]

Nice vid.. wrist check? Curious to what u wearing when discussing other brands

[@toadamine]

Unless its a Rolex or something, I don't want an in house movement, I want an ETA or Selitta or even a Miyota, something everyone knows how to regulate and work on... there's lots of watches I wont buy because they have some unknown and untested in House movement...

[@thomaszannier1638]

Thanks again Teddy ! Very instructive video many newcomers to horology should see before choosing a watch. Everything is in the details !😊

[@SynthiaMoskau]

Love your channel with so many stellar watches! For me the MAMACOO’ watch is my favorite. Keep the videos coming. Thanks.

[@pardus8panthera5]

Excellent post, thanks. So many points additional points, but here are some of mine: 'Dive watches" on leather/Alligator straps! Movements that rattle in their cases! Visible screw heads that do not Line Up with each other (e.g: Hublot in your video) & especially: Limited Edition of xx/XX, until the next "limited edition of the exact same watch with a different Title: this has to be the worst issue for me... Many thanks, Cheers.

[@murselmashruh9024]

Nice video……how would u judge presence or absence of hand winding

[@bwallace4241]

Agreed on the water resistance theme; some folks think 100m + is needed to go swimming in their 6’ deep swimming pool…. 🤷‍♂️

[@TheGreektrojan]

WR is just like horsepower (beyond a certain point) or watts. A big number for people to justify their luxury purchases with questionable real world utility.

[@morbideddie]

I think the watch industry is partly to blame for that. You still see some manufacturers pushing the "30m for a humid day, 50m for rain, 100m for washing your hands in a sink" BS.

[@SallaLaurila]

It always amazes me how much beauty and precision are added to the parts of AMZWATCH's watch 99% of people will never see.

[@chrisboggs4262]

“The funny, weird world we live in…” - boy, there’s a statement that has legs! Great video. I’ve wondered why “hacking” isn’t just a normal feature of most automatic watches. I’d add winding to that as well; I have a Seiko SNZG15 that doesn’t hack or hand-wind, which is strange, but stranger still is how easy it is to pick up, set the day/date/time, shake it a few times and put it on and it doesn’t miss a beat. It’s a different approach I’m learning to enjoy (I don’t always have to be in control? I can just wear it and it’ll wind it’s self? Hmmm). Thanks for some great perspectives from the watch making world.

[@duckrutt]

Seiko has been slowly updating their 5 series with hacking movements. They've also added a disproportional amount of money for the convenience which is annoying. I've got a mongrel on my wrist at the moment. SNKL23 case, the dial and hands from a SNSX79 and a domed sapphire crystal. I have a NH35 for it but I haven't gotten around to it. It's only been a year so I'm sure I'll get to it eventually.

[@Gumby56]

You just said the quiet part out loud, thank you!

[@davidbailey4128]

A video on arbitrary styling pet peeves would be fun. Mine is date windows at 4 or 5:00 position.

[@williamthomas6106]

Lume is part of the ISO 6425 Diver's Watch Standard. This is why if I want a Dive "Style" watch, I typically get one that's ISO certified. The watch I own with the best lume, is unsurprisingly, my Inexpensive Citizen Promaster Diver (BN0151-09L). One of the least expensive watches I own, and yet the ONLY watch I'd actually dive with.

[@ArjenJongeling]

17:08 I love that the chapter about movements that not fit the case is introduced by a title that doesn’t fit the box 😂 Otherwise: great videos! Love your work.

[@thomasmack7147]

Great content T B Enjoyed the video! It helped get my mind off work. Love the Chanel 💯🍻

[@litan114]

this is fresh contents, Thx Teddy!!!!

[@MrR2185]

I have that exact Orient Sun&Moon model at 7:37 and in fairness, that is only a $230 USD watch. The dial looks quite nice in person, despite being stamped. For that money you get sapphire, crystal, in house mechanical with complications and nice case finishing. It is a little thick for a dressy watch and stock strap is "meh".

[@energeez]

well im only buying that for the dial anyhow so yea

[@turbyoulance]

Brilliant Video and summation

[@kris2223334]

Great topic and video! Would love to have a follow up video/s w. More details and examples

[@Chrissepisje]

Pins and collars are superior. You lose screws if you don't use loctite. You destroy screws because they are tiny and flat-headed, and because thread can strip. You can also scuff the rest of your link when your screw driver blade skips off. If I never see a screwed bracelet again in my life, it would be too soon. I've never had a pin and collar break on me. I do not understand the fashionable fad of complaining about a perfectly well engineered fastening method. I do hate split pens. That does suck. You are spot on about the date. Cases are too large for the movements that get put in there. You are also right about the stamped clasps, not a problem on a Seiko 5, as is a stamped dial on an affordable watch. With regards to micro adjustment though, I would argue that I'd rather have a thin and small clasp than an adjustable one. But if the clasp is large, punch the holes indeed. But the biggest annoyance is indeed crap lume. There is no reason, in 2022, to have shit lume. Last but not least: There's nothing wrong with a skin diver that's rated at 100m WR, as per the ISO standard. No sane recreational diver will ever come to more than 50m depth. That said, a 7500 buck watch like a Reverso should be able to deal with 50m. A better gasket won't make the watch thicker.

[@stevenbriandunn5648]

Excellent as always. Why you not mention Grand Seiko as going the extra mile or not as in no microadjust?

[@stevenv.surawski1178]

I found this video very informative, thank you for posting iy

[@beammeupyet]

Thank you for showing these reasonable points👍What do you thing about the springing date at midnight in current and older movements? Can it be adjusted for example in a Selita SW330-2 ?

[@ModernClassic]

I agree that water resistance is way overblown by a lot of the community. I have a Breitling Navitimer and KZbin recommended me a video on another channel about the Navitimer's "fatal flaw". That fatal flaw is that it's only water resistant to 3 bars. This is a pilot watch. If you're a pilot and you're more than 100 feet underwater, something has gone very, very wrong. Obviously it's not just pilots that wear these watches, just like it's not just divers wearing dive watches, but there are obviously design choices being made that determine the type of watch these watches even are. Not every watch needs 5 or 10 bars of water resistance. And most people who wear watches don't need anything close to that either, whether they think they do or not.

[@arctic_skies]

Really good and informative video. Thx Teddy.

[@alexpaterson1382]

Thanks for the video, enjoyed a nice cigar with this.

[@Waterfront975]

Yea, I bought a Seiko 5 watch and noticed the chapter ring misalignment. I thought WTF, watches should never have that error. But then I found out that it was a common Seiko fault, at least for the somewhat cheaper ones. To check and show for your watch dealer that the dial or hands are misaligned, you can set the hour hand to 9 o'clock to the minute mark on the bezel. The minute hand should then point correctly to the 12 o'clock mark on the dial and bezel. Trying to help Seiko with some tip here also :) Anyway I bought it to the the dealer and Seiko fixed it for free.