Tesla's Battery Service Mode Test: Why You Shouldn't Perform the Test

Many people have been trying this lately, but there are some things you need to be aware of before you try it. The Battery Health Test could take up to 24 hours to complete. To start your car will need to be under 50% State of Charge & plugged into a Level 2 charger.You will need Tesla software version 2022.36.x or higher to perform.
Currently you can't run this on any Tesla's that have full self driving (FSD). Once you've completed the test, all you're going to get is a percentage of battery health with no criteria to understand how this affects your car. These are the reasons why I wouldn't do it. Tesla Service Mode Battery Health
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Tesla HV Battery Test in Service Mode
Tesla software version 2022.36.6
Tesla high voltage battery test in service mode
Tesla Service Mode: HV Battery Test
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[@rwhcrwhc]

Damn this monotone.. I wished he did it in 2 mins..

[@jasonschomburg614]

Right I didn't even finish that shit. Get to the fucking point Jr. What was his point anyway?

[@bW9taeH4]

I ran the test. It drained the battery down to a few miles but not quite 0, charged it to 90% and stopped without showing me a number for health. It charged to 257 miles. That's 90% of 287, which I don't think is very good, but it's not likely that Tesla will care. The other thing is that my HVAC now has an odor that it didn't have before. I don't know if the test actually finished, or the car just did a scheduled charge after the test gave up. The car has about 45k miles on it. For comparison, my 2014 Model S charges to 232 at 90% and went to 237 when new. It has over 70k miles on it. The thing about the Model 3 is that it had a huge relatively sudden drop in range during the COVID lockdowns when it stayed in the garage for months at around 80%, topping itself off when it felt like it to get back to 80%.

[@usasupra23]

For me, the test never finishes. It timed out at 98% and says charge complete even though it’s set to 100%. 2020 MYP

[@SuperCaryG]

Excellent over view. I use scan my Tesla on my MY. I am at almost 80k km's and I'm seeing about 5% percent using the app. I have the 82kW battery as yourself and I believe it starts with about 79kW nominal and roughly 76kW useable when new. (That's what Bjorn was able to pull from 100 to 0 in range test with a 82kW pack). I think Tesla includes the buffer in the range calcs. I started with 531 when new and I'm now seeing 500-505 now. Also note that, that is also with heavy supercharging usage as I have road tripped heavily down to the states. I am away from my car for 2 weeks at a time when I am away at work and leave my car at 50% the entire time and only charge to 70-80% for daily use. I was seeing the same kind of degradation as you are at 18k. Seems to be a decent battery pack. But yes, Scan my Tesla is da bomb! You can also see potential issues before they happen potentially like a bad cell if cell imbalance goes bad. Still seeing 2mV imbalance at higher states which I believe is a good sign for battery health. Of course, during discharge and supercharging that will vary depending on state of charge.

[@GregHassler]

The percentage provided is the number Tesla uses to determine if a battery qualifies for warranty replacement. It's the only number that matters, not what a third party app reports.

[@tz230]

Can you explain more? When I purchased model y Dec 2021 I have 330 miles now a year later it is 300 miles. When I should be able to replace battery ? Please help! Or at what miles I need to report it?

[@BCTeslaGuy]

battery will only be replaced if more than 30% degradation or it malfunctions. You will experience the most degradation in the first year and then it stables out. Your battery is within specs. thanks for watching

[@stevelovesemmy]

Tesla defines degradation differently than a standard equation

[@sittingpretty64]

​@@tz230Same here but I have almost 100,000 miles on my car.

[@tz230]

@@sittingpretty64 I have 86,000 now

[@johnlabernik4599]

The result is the percentage of nominal capacity compared to a new pack. The primary utility of the test is for buying a used tesla.

[@jayay3881]

How many sellers are going to let you run a 12-24 hour test on their car before you buy?

[@askews12]

The data from the actual car performing the test is most accurate not the apps.

[@stevelovesemmy]

This is the test that Tesla does to determine battery health for warranty claims

[@2maitree]

love the color of your seats...

[@nexusbs]

Keep cool. Don‘t worry about a Test which is a Tool of your warranty giver. We drain down below 10% and charge to 98%. Since 200.000 Miles!

[@stevenewton1238]

You charge to 98%? I thought it’s recommended only to charge up to 80% unless it’s a lfp battery?

[@BCTeslaGuy]

I've been charging to 90% for most of 2022. I'm now only charging to 50-60% while my car sits in the garage. If I plan to drive more than 20% usage I will a bit so I don't go below 30%. My goal for 2023 is to keep as close to 50%. I'm doing a test right now where I discharged to 10% and will leave it overnight and then add 10-20% and let it sleep again till the next day. Goal is to track the charging and battery details over the week or so to see if this will re-calibrate the battery. Not worried, just figured I won't be driving for a week anyway. Thanks for watching

[@nexusbs]

@@stevenewton1238 recommended:yes but we charge to 98%since 2015 200.000miles/ 330.000km(germany) haven‘t checked batterie professionally but seems to have a loss of capacaty by 5-8%

[@nexusbs]

@@BCTeslaGuy cool. Enjoy and share your results . We are just driving and charging.

[@Meatball2022]

@@stevenewton1238mine had the daily recommended range from 50-90%. I spent first year charging to 85%. Now I charge to 90%. Debating to go back to 85%

[@tesos2866]

It means 7% degradation obviously

[@jans9183]

I have a 2021 SR+ with the 55kwh LFP pack. The test result shows 15% Battery Health. Not degradation. Battery Health. I started at 5%. It drained to about 3% (noise for only a second. Followed by silence.)and it charged 50.13kwh afterwards reguarding Teslamate. So there is clearly a bug in displaying the result. Did anyone regain the Button after performing the Test? Mine jist shows „3days ago“. Thanks for the video!

[@BCTeslaGuy]

hum, no button for me. thanks for watching and providing your details.

[@jans9183]

The Battery Test Button is back now. I am on 2022.44.2. I will redo the test maybe somed day to get maybe a higher result than 15% ^^

[@BCTeslaGuy]

@@jans9183 mine is too since this update. I will retest in late 2023

[@montoyahans]

What exactly do you mean by “leaving the car unattended at a 100%”? What’s the harm on that? It’ll just start discharging as usual especially if it’s outside.

[@BCTeslaGuy]

For non-LFP battery Tesla's, it not recommended to leave the car at 100% for an extended period of time. If you test ends in the middle of the night it may stay at 100% longer than you should allow. Just a warning about leaving it 100%. Now if it's the 2022+ Standard Range Model 3 with LFP batteries, it's not an issue. I hope this clarifies it.

[@montoyahans]

@@BCTeslaGuy ok but you’re not answering the question of “why is it not recommended”?

[@BCTeslaGuy]

leaving your battery at a very low SOC or high SOC for an extended period of time will increase battery degradation as per Tesla's user manual.

[@bW9taeH4]

If you do it regularly, it can increase degradation. If you do it rarely, it's not likely to matter. Since Tesla can't cover every permutation, they tell you what's not generally harmful. On a day to day basis, charging to 80-90% should be fine. Occasionally charging to 100% and then driving within the next couple of hours should be fine. It's impossible to mention how many hours and how many times would become a problem, because it couldn't represent real world use. They can't document what might happen if you leave it at 100% for a full day once a year, and also for nine hours three times per year, and for five hours once a month, or some other combination because there are an infinite number of combinations. So they tell you what's safe. Other things might be safe or might not be, but as a rule, deviation from the standard recommendation isn't a problem if it's rare. But don't generally charge above 90% if you don't need to. Even for road trips, if starting at 100% will get you there with a charging stop for lunch and another for a restroom break, and starting the trip at 90% will need the same two charging stops and the same amount of time (i.e. it will have enough range to continue before you finish lunch either way) then there's no reason to go to 100% even for that trip. Avoid 100% if you don't need it, but take advantage of it if you truly need it.

[@blakef]

@@BCTeslaGuy Is it possible for you to provide more correlation between the 100% indicated SOC, the actual voltage at the cell level in your car which is cause for concern vs. the data sheet for these cellls/ chemistry.

[@peteroffpist1621]

During early days Tesla recommend no longer than 8 hours at 100% charge.

[@bW9taeH4]

The recommendations are based on the notion that if you follow them, you won't get worse than normal degradation. That doesn't mean that if you don't follow them, you will necessarily get more degradation. It means that there are far too many hypothetical scenarios for them to get into. Obviously, charging to 100% and leaving your car on the charger to top off as you go away for a month will be a problem. Leaving it at 100% for 12 hours once every few years won't be a problem. Tesla service once charged my car to 100% and left it there for days. (I have no idea why) and that's on a 2014 Model S, which has lost about 6 miles of range since it was new, and it's years after Tesla did that. They made the recommendation you mentioned because they can't get into how often it's ok to exceed it, or what if it's only 98%, or what if you do it once in a lifetime for a week, etc. But realistically, if it charges to 100% and you don't drive the car until the next day, it's not likely to make a difference, as long as it's a rare thing.

[@peteroffpist1621]

@@bW9taeH4 true that is the longer version. But you have to give some general guidelines so people understand the principles. More problem with heat with expansion, so if you live in Spain you need to take that in consideration if you live in Norway less of a problem.

[@bW9taeH4]

@@peteroffpist1621 Yes, if you tell people to do something that's not a problem across the board, and that they can exceed 90% only when needed for a trip, and then try to use the car as soon as possible, that's the best case for the other 10%. Explaining the rest in a paragraph that users are likely to actually read won't cut it.

[@peteroffpist1621]

@@bW9taeH4 maybe time to upgrade the information. Especially with the newer LFP that can be charged 100% all the time. Different recommendations for different year models and different chemistry’s.

[@bW9taeH4]

@@peteroffpist1621 Yes, there are a lot of things that the recommendations didn't account for. For example, people with software limited packs could charge to 100% because the software limited the threshold and called it 100% when it wasn't. LFP is another example, but Tesla doesn't get into that level of detail when it sells a car. I think that most people I know with a Tesla know that they like the car, so they bought one. They don't spend much time if any reading up on it, and probably never read the owner's manual. I think that getting into some of these things here will educate people who read comments, which will still leave out most Tesla owners. If the video gets a million hits, I'll stand corrected. But in an ideal world, it would get somewhere in that area because people should at least know what a battery test is and whether one makes sense.

[@adelco81]

Thanks for the video. My test went through without any problems. The result is 12%. What does that mean after 10,000 KM. My range is 100% 462KM.

[@BCTeslaGuy]

If you got 12%, then your results are wrong. Kyle from out of specs got a similar result and was told by Tesla there is a fix coming to the service software. Kyle will be doing the test again once it's updated. Don't put much weight on this test for now. Thanks for watching

[@ede4345]

Trying to buy a Tesla from a private owner. What test should I make before buying the car. Want to make sure I don’t get a lemon.

[@BCTeslaGuy]

this test is not something you can do on a car quickly. Just like any car, you should take to a shop that specializes in car inspections. Sorry

[@ede4345]

@@BCTeslaGuy I can’t take it to a shop that I know since the car is 1 hr away from me.

[@tesla-spectre]

yeah I will certainly not do that test. I stick with the simple ways of calculation: nominally available capacity (including buffer): average consumption over 50km x prorated range / % left. I get there now 76.6 compared to 78.8 nearly a yr and 30000km ago, so that means 2.8% degradation. and slightly higher when looking at the net usable (so minus the 3.3-3.5kWh buffer, int he end this is what a 100% SoC covers): was 74.6 when new and now varies between 71.6 and 74 with a mean around 72.5. so that is about 2.9% seems to me that that is all pretty accurate without any apps

[@BCTeslaGuy]

thanks for watching. good information. subscribed to your channel. You provide some really detailed videos on range. :-)

[@tesla-spectre]

@@BCTeslaGuy thanks mate! 😎🥂

[@rickkhalil]

Thanks for a good explanation. Do you know about the BMS calibration have you done this? kzbin.info/www/bejne/f6ixmJd-d6d1l7s

[@BCTeslaGuy]

I've tried something similar and have yet to see any improvement. For the first year I always charged to 90% and left it plugged in when not in use. I now try to keep my battery stat close to 50% and have seen an improvement. For normal driving days I charge to 60-70% and drive it down to 35-40%. If I don't plan on driving the car the next few days I leave it at the state. I also don't have it plugged in all the time either. I don't think I have much degradation with 30K km. TeslaFi reports my car had 573km, now it's 556 for a loss of 17km. I personally don't look at range much. I'm planning on a video explaining my thoughts on range and why not to worry about it. thanks for watching

[@universeisundernoobligatio3283]

Is there a way of aborting the test?

[@BCTeslaGuy]

Just close out of Service mode. thanks for watching

[@ImaginetMedia]

You recorded your audio at -14 dB. Standard for KZbin is -6 dB. This is unwatchable. If you want to improve your channel, normalize your volume correctly.

[@BCTeslaGuy]

thanks for your feedback. I will try to do better next time. any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. :-)

[@ImaginetMedia]

@@BCTeslaGuy Glad to help. For staters, cut the time back. That video could have half as long. Write out your bullet points first and make sure you hit them. This will stop the rambling that happens when you have not thought out what you are trying to convey.. You do not have to do this in one long shot. It is much easier to do in small segments then edit the best parts later. Use a real mic, not the built-in mic. A $25 lav mic from Amazon plugged into your camera is 100% better than the built-in mic. Adjust you expose and colour in your NLE so you cover the full dynamic range. This is usually done with one click in iMovie, FCPX, Premiere, Resolve, etc. Then export so that the audio meters show you voice level peak at -6dB. You can adjust the gain in camera and check it before you hit record. That was your problem here. Use a video recording app that allows volume control and exposure and a white balance lock. OK, that is good for starters. Easy fixs that will keep your viewers. Remember, Spielberg said audio is half of a video. This is so true. People wil watch crappy video (out of focus, under-exposed, white balance off, shaky, etc.) if the audio is really good (think radio). But, people wil not watch a video, no matter how perfect the visuals and cinematography is, if the audio is bad.

[@BCTeslaGuy]

Wow that’s a lot of info to digest. I’m using a rode wireless 2 microphone with the rode lav mic. Next video I will try to just to plan my video better, and instead of trying to do it all in one take do you short little clips with the relevant information. thanks again for your awesome feedback. It is greatly appreciated.

[@BCTeslaGuy]

I did turn up the volume in FCP because I thought it was too low. Never did this before. Can you check this video's audio and let me know if that was much better. kzbin.info/www/bejne/b3nLkpiuaMl_rNE . Again thanks for your support.

[@darekmistrz4364]

@@BCTeslaGuy Still pretty quiet IMO