DotTune: Autofocus fine tuning in under 5 minutes

[@SlayerzXtreme]

I have found this video 7+ years into the future, it's 2020 and wow, this calculations are simply impressive! Thank you so much! 🙏

[@amosbw]

Me too. 2020 apocalypse year and I am here tuning my lenses.. lol

[@SlayerzXtreme]

@@amosbw 🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@andrewford80]

You deserve some serious praise for this video. It is actually one of the most concise videos I have ever seen. There is absolutely no confusion. Thank you!

[@andrewford80]

+andrewford80 I just did this on my Canon 70-200 2.8 IS mk2, which I have never really been that thrilled with on my 7D. I went through the process and got a range of -13 to +3 for a midpoint of -5. I then went and took a control image with live view and then took a bunch of pics using regular through the view finder AF at -6, -5 and -4. Sure enough, -5 produced the sharpest image. There were a few failures to gain exact focus at all three adjustment levels, but -5 was the best. Now to try my other lenses...

[@andrewford80]

+andrewford80 Right, I have now done the same thing with my EF-S 17-55 and my Nifty Fifty 50mm 1.8. The 17-55 is now at +6 and the 50 1.8 is -3. The one thing I have relised is that micro adjusting the 50mm 1.8 with its 1980s era auto focus is essentially pointless. It misses focus so much it's ridiculous. I'm not talking by a small margin either, this thing is actually really bad. It makes me sad, because I liked that little lens! Again, thank you for your comprehensive explanation about the dot tune. It made this process of AF micro adjustments so much easier.

[@daedicurus]

There might be something wrong with your lens, I have a 50mm f/1.8D that i've had for too many years to admit and after doing this method it's still pin sharp.

[@andrewford80]

Your's is a nikon thought right? The canon 1.8 is a piece of shit.

[@daedicurus]

ahh yeah, the new canon 50's a lot better (faster focus, metal mount, stm, etc)

[@tasercs]

An excellent video. Concise, detailed, well paced, enthusiastic, no music, good use of graphics. I wish they were all this good. Thanks for taking the time to make it.

[@joshanon9031]

I was able to calibrate 2 new Tamron lenses in les than 30mins! Tack sharp!!!!!!!!!! This is nuts! Please share this video with the public! I’m sitting here in awe of the results! Such simplistic of a concept, mind blowing results. For this who are wondering I have the Tamron 24-70 & the 70-200 g2 and they are amazing lenses and I highly Highly recommend them!

[@FrankNazario]

One of the most frustrating process in photography has been completely being blown out of the water....THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCH!!! for sharing this process to us!!! Specially Nikonians that have purchased third party lenses !!! WOW this is a simple process!!! :) thank you!!

[@joshanon9031]

Right?! You and me both brother!!! My D750 and I are happiest campers! God Bless!

[@KnispelGreece]

I loved your method,not only it gets the job done but also reminds me of the system we used to "zero" our aiming instruments for the main gun of a battle tank (ages ago when I was a tank gunner serving my duty!). Great video, thank you very much sir!

[@liamcottell7491]

Found this in 2024 after my trusty D700 reached 250,000 shots then shutter blades failed right on cue, Now using D7100 backup camera bought cheap and discovered focus issues. Cheers for the definitive best way to calibrate per lens af tune!

[@TT99C5]

Most excellent video. Used your photoshop focus target and in about 30 minutes had EXCELLENT results with a Nikon D7100 and a 18-55 VRII, 35 f1.8, and 10-24. Thank you so much for putting this technique out there in a simple to understand manner!

[@moazzamtariq74]

Excellent. After spending too many hours/days and wasting too many shutter counts, I finally nailed it within 30 minutes by watching this video. Excellent help. Now my Nikon D7000 is working as it should do.

[@sklay78]

Excellent video, and the method works extremely well. I did it with my 70-200 f/2.8L IS II USM with and without my 1.4x II Extender last night and it made an immediately obvious improvement. With the extender the lens need an offset of +10 on the tight which would explain why my shots were so soft before. +4 without. Now my images are just as sharp as without the extender and it's actually getting me better resolution than just cropping in. The checker board pattern I used in the Bob Atkins chart did make the AF a little more fidgety, but it worked and testing with cross hatches showed very sharp, consistent results. I think the best part of this technique is that it doesn't require any shots be taken. My 6D with that 70-200 f/2.8 and the extender is a very heavy setup, and when it's tripod mounted from the lens the shutter actuation is enough to shake the camera, which blurred the images. This technique totally avoided that problem. I'm very thankful I came across this. It was linked from another video.

[@twizzle1952]

Hi, I know this was two years ago, and you may not remember, but at what length did you carry out the test. For the 70mm end, in between, or the 200mm end, as the distance of the target will be different for the entire range between 70 and 200mm. I hope I’ve explained myself correctly. Thanks. Jim

[@rioosodog]

Simply awesome! This video is pure genius. It uses the actual camera circuitry to get the values that you need for the lens in question. Thanks a lot!

[@jwatanabe90]

This is absolutely genius, never would have thought of trying it this way. I normally use FoCal to tune my lenses, but I noticed that it will focus kinda funny depending on the lighting situation. Using this method, I got values in the ballpark of what FoCal gave me (within +/-3), but what I feel is a more precise adjustment. It's noticeable in photos.

[@EdgarReihl]

I watched the video and missed seeing the note about Nikon until after I had finished calibrating all of my lenses, so I had to go back and re-do them after I saw it. Fortunately, the settings only changed one or two points. I had been doing something similar for quite awhile, which I referred to as the "focus confirm" method, but your description of the procedure is very thorough. Great job!

[@tidesofkali]

You are simply brilliant ! I just did this on my 4 lenses with canon 80D. I been getting a lot of unreliable shots off my canon 17-55 2.8 ( 10 shots 3 will be sharp rest be blurry at random) now they are spot on! I did the taking pictures of slanted ruler method for days and got no where. This using the camera system itself to pinpoint a solid af point is amazing! and way better than me taking massive of test shots and using my eyes to determine how much front and back to micro adjust. This method just works and fast! Thank you so much !

[@Zirlok]

Hi, I also have a Canon 80D with the 17-55 lens. I wanted to ask how you calibrated the values, why in my copy the 55mm end is still blurry. Thanks.

[@Sixteen0Four]

First I was very disappointed with my 50mm 1.4, I then tuned it by eye to -6 just to find out that at -11 (!!!) it has critical sharpness. Wow! Thank you so much for this video! :)

[@TrangLe-yb5sy]

Thank you so much for the guidance. I just played around with my lenses on a Pentax camera. Worked like a charm. Most appreciated!

[@welshwizard645]

Going to follow this on my K-1 (I have the FoCal and Auto AF fine tune for my Nikons), even without any adjustment needed it gives me greater confidence about my lenses (just puts my technique in a bad light)...

[@dpreste]

Best method to use for Tamron zoom lenses when calibrating using the tap in console. So much faster this way, cuts out the whole take a picture...check focus...change value..repeat. With my 10-24mm, there are 18 possible adjustments (3 distances per focal length in the program) and I'm glad I found this method before starting calibration. Huge time saver!

[@FrankNazario]

In my Sigma 18-35 the callibration process was a NIGHTMARE ... next time I get a chance I will do this to really fine tune it... with my Tamron prime this process iwll be much easier!

[@mrbeacham68]

Just done this on my Canon EOS 7D MkII, after seeing that my 70-300mm L lens was back focusing a little. Started in steps of +/- 5 then 2 and then 1 to make it quicker to home in on end values, so only took about 20 mins. The EOS 7D MkII allows you to put in 2 correction values for zoom lenses, one for the wide end and one for the telephoto end and it interpolates between. I got +5 for the tele end and -6 for the wide end which is quite a difference. After finishing the tuning I took adjusted and unadjusted images of the focus target at each end of the zoom range and could clearly see an improvement. I then took some real world photos of the dog at 70, 135, 200 and 300mm and am blown away with the results. Focus is bang on throughout the whole range! This method certainly worked for me. Here is a shot at 200mm. The focus point was the eye. www.flickr.com/photos/126121963@N07/20231932831/in/album-72157656592806196/lightbox/

[@JohanSchmidt]

+Mark Beacham - great that Canon can do both ends of a zoom - Nikon only has 1 value

[@MrSalsaspeed]

Question, the tutorial mentions about the distance of the wall target to be based on the focal lenght. Did you setup the camera distance at the focal lenght of 70mm and then move the camera distance again based on the focal lenght of 300mm? Both of my lenses are Canon zoom lenses. The 70-200mm and 24-105mm. I get tack sharp pictures with my 24-105mm but not so great with the 70-200mm. I will like to try this method for micro adjusting the lens. I had tack sharp focus with the 70-200mm non-is and once i upgraded to an used IS model lens the focus has never been the same. This is happenning with my 2 camera bodies: T5i and 6D.

[@robl6189]

I find this video to be incredibly valuable. I have referenced it a few times as I have had a few times where I forgot that the BLINKING BEEP does not count.

[@khengteoh4318]

Thankyou for the explanation, i have tested this on my 105 F1.4 and i ended up with a +9 AF Fine Tune which makes my images way sharper!

[@81wwwolf]

Mate, I don't really know how to thank you for this! I used your genius method to fine-tune all my three lenses and the results were fantastic, especially with my Tamron 150-600mm. Something I wanted to add for anyone who might have an issue with light for whatever reason is using and iPad as an AF target. It worked for me although my apartment is pretty dark.

[@bubu523]

Hi, do you mind sharing your adjustments? I have the same camera but having an issue with multiplying the lens x 50 and turning into "feet". I would appreciate it. I have the same lens.

[@81wwwolf]

@@bubu523 I don’t have that gear anymore but there is no use sharing the adjustments anyway because the neither camera bodies nor lenses have the same calibration issues. You need to find what applies to your particular camera and lens

[@ScottPrincePhotography]

I just tuned my canon 400mm L 5.6 with this method and the difference is amazing. Took me a second to understand it but this works really really well. My 80D wouldnt even focus in the negative range, it was all positive.I am now at +7 compared to a +3 when I used the little cardboard chart. Thanks!!!

[@williamsouthwick6117]

This video is a life saver!!! I had used Canon's "Stab in the Dark Method" to no avail. Just when I was about to curl up in the fetal position and give up, I was pointed toward this video!! Thanks for taking the time, and putting such effort into this video, it was great help to me, and no doubt, to many others!

[@williamfriggle]

I am so thankful for this video. Thanks so much for doing it for us. I did this with my D600 and 200-500 a while ago. I had to send my D600 back to Nikon. And when it came back the focus was off again. So I re did it today. But totally forgot about not turning off the autofocus on the lens. I knew not to on the body. But thought it was OK to turn it off at the lens. I guess I need to re do it tomorrow when daylight comes around. Thanks again for doing this video for us. I get sharper images because of it. UPDATE: I redid it with the autofocus switch still on the lens. My top and bottom number changed by 1. +12 & +2. Compared to +11 & +3. But it comes out to the same average number of +7. So it really didn't make a difference in my situation. But I would do it as he suggest as it might make a difference for you.

[@vampire4242]

Excellent video. I have just tuned 3 lenses on my 7D mk2 using this technique. All had a tendency to be slightly forward focus and I had tried using other methods to no avail. This one worked superbly. Well done that man!!

[@rogermastana]

Finally, a simpler and easier way to micro-adjust my lenses. Thank you.

[@xTheRealSickNick]

This worked wonders on my Sigma 85mm f/1.4! I was pretty unhappy with the way it was performing before but this really changed that. Thanks a lot for sharing with everyone!

[@xTheRealSickNick]

This worked wonders on my Sigma 85mm f/1.4! I was pretty unhappy with the way it was performing before but this really changed that. Thanks a lot for sharing with everyone!

[@AdrianPentchev]

One of the best and easiest methods for focus calibration. I have FoCal software and can confirm that this method is easier, faster and more precise at least for my Nikon D600 and 50mm 1.4 Nikkor.

[@ronaldchong]

+1 thanks for this. i've had my 7DM2, 17-55 and 70-200L f2.8 IS II for about two weeks and haven't been thrilled with the focus accuracy. (i've spent most of my time making sure it wasn't my technique.) i just used your technique tonight and holy cow...what a difference!! now my shots are tack sharp at both end for both lenses. this'll be the first thing i do on any future lenses.

[@RelationshipDoc]

I tried your technique and it seems to work very well. I said "seems" because I have only tried a few test shots, but overall I am very pleased with the positive difference. I do have something to add for the benefit of fellow Canon users. I have a Canon 90D with back button focus. I set up the camera just like suggested in the video. However, I found that every time I pushed the AF button on the back of the camera to look for the green dot, the menu went away and I had to cycle back through the menu to get to the right spot and make the adjustments. It wasn't a big deal, but it did add several button pushes to the process for each test. Still, I am impressed with how well this worked. My Tamron 18-400 mm was consistently soft on focus before. Now, at 400mm and handheld, I was able to take a sharp photo of a car tag 150 yards away - and by sharp I mean I could clearly read everything on the tag. Now That is an improvement! Thanks. And I hope other Canon users will find my comment helpful.

[@testcams]

It's a great question, one I've been asked a lot on the dpreview forums. When you tune to a 2-D target like a focus chart, the balance of front/rear DOF will depend on how the chart was focused in Live View to reach the center of DOF. Even with "perfect" LV focusing the DOF balance may not be 50/50 but 70/30 or whatever the natural optical DOF is for your target setup. For tuning to a precise DOF I recommend using a 3-D target, like a LensAlign, which is mentioned near the end of the video.

[@jacobkrueger1920]

I know this comment is extremely old but how would this work with the dot tune method?

[@juliuspalon5319]

Worked on my 2 canon bodies, 80D and 6D and four lenses. Thanks a lot. To those having inconsistent results please bear in mind that the source of light affects pdaf so you'll get different results if you calibrated your lens on an artificial light then shoot on natural light or vice versa.

[@jimwlouavl]

Excellent method. Thanks. I started doing it today and am surprised how much adjustment is required, but I do have older lenses purchased used. I also found a tweak: When your range includes negative and positive numbers, you need to subtract the lowest from the highest AND add one to account for zero being included. Then, take half of that result and subtract that from the highest number.

[@SuperRockojr]

Awesome video. I'm so glad I found dottune. I had performed AF fine tune by eye taking multiple images and found that -10 was best to my eye. After using your method it turns out that -14 was it's critical focus point, its possible it can be lower since I was able to hit -20 without flickering. Performed it on my sigma 50mm 1.4.

[@robnunya572]

This works. It may not be as pinpoint accurate as some of the proprietary solutions, but IT'S FREE! And it will make a difference to your success rates. Try it before you scoff.

[@bertiefigueres]

Just wanted to say BIG THANK YOU. Great system. The only thing I would suggest, is that you carry out the process several times and average out your AF Tune settings. Why? Because focus is not an exact distance, but rather a range. If you defocus your lens and then start again you will find you get several different AF Tune settings. Hopefully they will all be close, but sometimes you get rouge values sneak in, were the focus you set might be slightly off. By repeating the process several times, and on zooms at different zoom ranges, you can average out to a middle value that will give you a better, more consistent AF Tune setting. It's more work, obviously, which is a pain in the neck. But you only buy lenses very infrequently. And once you set it, you never really need to touch it again, so it is worth getting that setting right at the start. (I just bought a new lens, which was initially soft, so I know.) That is what I have found anyway. But that is just a small detail in what is otherwise a fantastic method. THANK YOU! 👍

[@brucewilliamsstudio4932]

Dude, you rock!! This is the best explanation/technique I have seen yet!

[@testcams]

Absolutely. I recently used the VF confirmation to evaluate whether the AF on a new Nikon D5200 was off. It turns out it was, and off by so much that the dot would flicker immediately after dropping out of the Live View-focused target to check the focus, meaning it was off by an amount greater than the confirmation range.

[@bainebikerx3170]

Just used this method to adjust a Canon EF50mm f/1.0L USM and it worked great.Thank you very much.

[@sherri-annanderson6885]

This is fantastic! Thank you taking the time. My 24-70 has been out for some time and I have tried other methods of fine tuning the focus. I found the point of +5 at 70mm and the point of -1 at 24mm and put those two numbers in your calculator to get +2. It seems to be sharp through the whole range.

[@dbauernf]

DId you tune just on the 70mm end?

[@gabrielduarte7109]

Excellent my brother, working fine and result is incredible. Thanks a lot for this support. I really appreciate your help and time. God bless you.

[@B-E-A-S-T]

finaly i found the best practical technic for this issue! thank you!

[@photographerswithoutborder7302]

You deserve so much of the praise we are thankful it you

[@BH-xe7nb]

Thanks for this, gives me much more confidence doing this now.

[@togusa75]

This method is simple and also highly "logical". I actually feel a bit stupid for not having thought about it by myself before.

[@javypc]

Amazing... Just calibrate my 70d following this tutorial and I really can see the difference.. Thanks a lot

[@neuronflow]

Hi there, thanks for sharing your method. Yesterday we tested it using a Pentax K5 II and a Nikon D7000. We found that the tune range was highly dependent on the distance between the AF target and the cameras, the focal length (on zoom lenses) and most importantly we could increase the tunerange by approximately 250% in both directions by setting up a flashlight shining on the AF target and therefore increasing contrast. So e.g. a range from 3 to 9 became -3 to 19 on the d7000. Cheers, Z

[@sethie_shots]

Fantastic video (2021!!) still cranking out views. I’m going to set up a station for my 17-55dx and my 35-70 2.8 p/p lenses. Really appreciate the effort 💪🏼

[@testcams]

Canon 1DX/5DM3/6D bodies support two tune values for zooms, one at the wide end, the other at the tele end, and the camera will interpolate tune values for focal lengths in between. For all other cameras you can either tune to the focal length you use most often or to a focal length in between. Each zoom lens is different so I'd suggest tuning at various focal lengths to find the best compromise.

[@Grateful_One777]

Thank you for the time and effort put into this video I was concern about my lens focal point being slightly off and never used Auto Focus (AF) just manual focus but now when I am in a crunch and need to shoot in AF I can feel confident in using AF after using your fine tuning methods with each of my lenses.

[@cyberioten]

Damn. Thanks - you just saved my Sigma 50 mm lense. I couldnt test the upper focus because my lens needed +19 on my Canon 70D. Have just tested my Canon EF 17-40 L IS usm which where off with -6 and -3. My Canon EF 24-105 L IS USM where off with -3 and -2 for the two focal extremes. Havent tested The stops between which is possible as I understand. So now I have razor sharp lenses.... Nice ...

[@FrumPilot]

Sounds like a great idea! But with zoom lenses, you will have to fine tune to different zoom ranges, or at least the one that you use the most. An alternative might be to fine tune the extreme ranges, and then set the midpoint of the widest and longest figures.

[@glenjones7708]

I recently brought a nikon 18-300. The way I used Dot Tune was to first started at 18mm and follow the instructions and wrote the min and max values(-5 t0 +5) Then at 150mm and did the same as the 18mm wrote down min max values (-6 to +4)Next at 300mm and wrote down the min and max values(-7 to +3) I was lucky that all were close so i added all min vales and all the max values and came (+12 to -20) then avg these values (+4 to -7) so mid point was -2. After testing all focal lengths I am happy with how sharp the focus is. I don't how this will work on other zoom lens.

[@p0gue23]

Thanks for this. I'm finding the DotTune method pretty useful for camera bodies without focus fine-tuning, too. You can check to make sure the autofocus with each of your lenses is close to correct. Rock the focus ring back and forth very slightly till the dot flickers on each end of the range. It's pretty easy to tell if live-view best-focus is near the center of your viewfinder in-focus range. Of course if focus is off you'll have to send the camera away for adjustment, but it's good to know.

[@KonstantinSto]

Great video! Simple and easy to follow and most importantly free. Thanks for sharing!

[@jamasters62]

Thanks so much for taking the time to make and post this excellent video and sharing your idea with us for free. I watched it about five or six times. (You speak fast and I hear slow. It's a Southern upbringing problem. I speak and hear slowly.) I calculated out my distances and printed the target and carefully fine tuned all four of my lenses. Each needed at least small adjustment. I was interested in the Lens Align kit, but finances have been crimped due to health issues. I think its a great item, but overpriced for me right now. Your solution seemed to be a perfect way to see if I did indeed have a front focusing problem on two of my lenses (I did), without costing anything initially. I certainly may buy a lens align kit in the future, but right now, I cannot think of how that system is an improvement over yours, unless to try an set the DOF in front and back of the focus plane. This was a big help to me and the price was right! A great idea and a well thought out, easily repeatable test.

[@matthiaswerner1984]

thank you soo much.. this is really a great tip.. especially for the ones owning the 50mm canon f1.4..

[@testcams]

Generally most people tune to their center AF point but you can tune to any AF point you'd like. I've used DotTune to confirm the alignment of my peripheral AF points relative to the center, both to check for body issues (like the D800's Left AF problem), and for lens-specific phase alignment issues.

[@2541968joey]

Thanks for this video / information. I just configured my 7D with all my lens. I found that if you multi click, half press the shutter button and then hold it down for the 5+ seconds it gives the camera more of a adjustment phase. Just got to do my Sigma Sport 150x600 & work with the adjustment USB dock. Thanks for taking your time to share.

[@laynetravis]

The best video about this subject

[@gronygroovy]

Thanks a lot man! Unfortunately my Sigma lens is WAY out and this helped a lot! I will never buy a Sigma lens again! So glad I found this!

[@KennethWuAU]

With zooms and bodies that give you a Wide/ Tele setting in the MFA menu, I find that if you keep the same adjustments the same for both Wide and Tele, you can get more consistent results. Once you have established the adjustment as per the dot-tune at the mid-focal length of you lens, then you can start changing the W/T values as you increase or decrease your focal length. Remember, you should prioritise longer focal lengths end over the shorter ones. This is because, you generally have more DOF at wider focal lengths. I also recommend that you adjust without a tripod and use a subject you would expect to shoot. Doing so will let the adjustment take into account you own focusing style. Example: You might prefer to have a tiny back focus when you focus on someone's eyes so the hair and skin around the eyes are more in focus. Using a focus chart and tripod is sometimes too accurate, and it might not be where you have envisioned your focus to be.

[@harleyeckles]

A brilliantly simple method. Thank you. And no, I will not play darts against you.

[@rienzphotoz891]

EXCELLENT Video ... will look forward to your follow up video. Thanks for all the hard word you put into this video and for sharing. Would like to see a video detailing this method on a zoom lens.

[@mdnpascual]

very useful. It's only +/- 1 off from the meticulous calibration of taking a photo and looking it on a computer to compare the best focus.

[@osvaldocristo]

Thanks for share your work. It is quite logical and direct... AFTER your post!

[@john3Lee]

This is brilliant - Many thanks !! :)

[@trugga]

Nicely explained (although a little wordy) - I had borrowed a X1.4ii to use with my 100-400 on a 5Diii: I was dissapointed with the result. Applied this method and found this combination now hits target at 560mm with a setting of +4. Many thanks for sharing - I'm now off to adjust the short end.

[@jarlrmai]

+Trugga Did you have the target at 50*560mm (28 meters)

[@LeonDieBoer]

Important to note: remember to set your Canon camera's focus to "One Shot" and not "AI Servo" otherwise you won't get focus confirmation

[@robertallenschambach]

Thanks, this worked like a charm my Nikon 85mm 1.4g which is extremely sharp to begin with is even better after fine tuning.

[@WanderlustVanlife]

Easy to understand and accurate, thanks!

[@jimwaugh94]

I have to say I did this today on my 100-400L ii and it seems to have done the trick. the crosshatch target works well

[@loubradt4341]

Wow - Huge difference between my lens on my two bodies.....All of my lenses are adjusted to -7 or -8 on my D610, but on my D4S they are all set to 0, because I got positive confirmation at every value..... I know the D4s is a beast, but that is some serious beastieness

[@Bartowham1]

Freaking brilliant Thank you. I've had issues with my D500/Tamron 150-600 G2. Doing this tomorrow morning.

[@lixnix]

How did you get on ? The video guy says multiply lens FL by 50. If you did your 600mm zoom at full tele, then your target would be over 98 feet away. I ask because i have a Sigma 300-800 and fine tuning at full tele for me would make the target over 130 feet away. Not so practical, but maybe you did it ok ?

[@Jimmy_Cavallo]

F-Bass did you try this at 130 feet.??

[@kramsniggah4333]

I must be so thick, I've watched this video twenty times and still have no idea how to do this. I've got a Nikon D7100 and had issues with a couple of lenses being out of focus and I used a chart that improved focus but relied on me taking 100's of shots = more wear on the shutter. I'll watch this another twenty times but still won't be any the wiser! Thanks all!

[@Blueangel290393]

thank you for this, even in 2022!

[@michamark9676]

Thx a lot for this Video. It helped me solve my focus problems on my 80D, which I did not have on my 600D, after the first lense and some practice, 5 min per lense is definitly doable, if no kids run around and kick the tripod :P thx again and greetings from Germany :)

[@IainHC1]

Totally brilliant!!! :-) Thank you :-)

[@laku4412]

this is simply fantastic. thanks a ton!

[@NikhilShahi]

Excellent and useful video. Thanks a lot for this.

[@kws4e]

One thing to note is, that checking if the light is blinking (hold it for many seconds) a´should be your first check. Tapping the shutter half very often after that is a good way to fine tune you decision, lets say if you're not sure if -5 or -4 should be one end of the spectrum. The one that reacts quciker and flawless to your multible inputs is the right one.

[@MilFalcon]

Excellent work and thanks for sharing.

[@Ferrovich]

I believe that instead of setting the midpoint of the range must choose the value that occupies the first third of it, because the depth of field includes a third ahead and two thirds behind the focus.

[@Mvtzstwlr]

If you calculate your DOF for a focus distance of 50 times your focal length, you have almost an even amount of depth in front (49%) and back (51%). The one third two thirds "rule" ist not feasible for the most focus distances ;-) Check out a DOF-calculator like this: www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

[@rlwings]

Ali...no, you're wrong,...That 'field' still conforms to the one third and two thirds of, as you would say, 'acceptability'. So it certainly does count and is quite accurately described as a depth of field (of acceptability) Which has a relative proportion of one third in front and two thirds behind regardless of how deep that field actually is... What are you going to do, pretend that the field doesn't exist? Boooouy!

[@gelosoriano]

Very helpful!!!! Thanks! Happy New Year!

[@RoopeLuukkainen]

I need to try this, thank you.

[@karajohn1234]

Amazing job. Thank you for sharing.

[@RicardoATBarbosa]

Amazing tutorial, you deserve a statue!

[@AurelienGKazzin]

I've been struggling with a tamron 24-70 G2 for a while now. I have taken so much pictures, tried everything but I couldn't get it right. Then I tried your method and it worked perfectly. Maybe it lacks one thing : Saying to people that they have to take several measurements. For instance, i've taken measurements at 24, 35, 50, 70 => 4 times in a row, then used your calculator for each measurements, then made an average and voilà ! If anybody wants me to say more about that, comment here :)

[@LauraLeandraProductions]

Which camera body did you perform the adjustment ? I'm having the same issue with the G2 and Nikon D850

[@KSMike1]

How do you reconcile the long & short ends of a zoom lens? For examples: D750, Nikkor 70-200 f/2.8 @ 200mm: Range -5 to +15, midpoint = +5 @ 70mm: Range -5 to -20, midpoint = ?? (2 issues: the limit was still in range, AND, the range was in the opposite direction than it was @ 200mm) D750, Nikkor 24-70 f/2.8 @70mm: Range +5 to -16, midpoint = -6 @24mm: Range -4 to +20, midpoint = ?? (same issues as previous lens) Thank you for a great explanation and for sharing a great concept.

[@richardeastman7178]

Having spent many hours over the last 2 days my advice is that this method and the updated method for Nikon owners (where you adjust around the Default value rather than the Saved value) do not work for the D610 or D7000. Focus locks quickly without any arrows or blinking from -20 to +20 settings for the Saved and Default adjustments. So for these lens you can't assess "back focus" (autofocus point out of true focus plane) using a flat sheet of paper. I did learn that my cameras and lens teleconverter combinations function very well at most settings. I reverted to batteries lined up at 45 degrees to the axis of the lens at 65 feet from the lens (other sources quote an optimal distance for assessing back focus of 50Xfocal llength, which for a 400mm lens is about 65 feet. Clearly a large back focus was present, and was corrected by setting the Saved adjustment for the lens to -12, bringing the focus point towards the lens.The autofocus indicator never blinked an eye . Now to do the same with the lens plus teleconverters.

[@oraziotp]

Best and better explained micro AF adjust method tank you

[@jundar73]

Great job! Thanks a lot!

[@walterig33]

Thank you so much. Wonderful method and tutorial. :)

[@ΣπύροςΧατζησταυράκης]

great video thanks!!

[@MariannAsbury]

I read the following by Marianne; Offset the lens focus a bit, so the AF fine-tune values that give you the two rangefinder transition points will be closer to 0. Then you can determine how many fine-tune values it takes to move from one transition point to the other. For example, if you defocus the lens slightly so that the AF fine-tune values at the limits of the "green dot" are at +2 and -6, then you know the difference is 8. Half of that difference, or 4 away from either transition point will be the correct adjustment. Then put the lens back at perfect focus. Find the fine-tune value at the available transition point. Your ideal fine-tune will be 4 values further away from 0; that is, if a fine-tune of -15 brings you to the edge of the "green dot" range, the ideal value will be -19. -- hide signature -- Qualities possessed by God in infinite proportion: Love, Grace, Power, Righteousness, Wisdom, . . . Qualities possessed by humans in infinite proportion: Ignorance. - Marianne Now, is there a way we can have a video of that, I am not sure how to understand this.

[@hutchinfo]

Great, Thanks very much. Clear and concise.

[@moravcik53]

.... could have done with finding this some time ago .... 10/10 thankyou

[@christopherleecowan]

thanks, this is now my new method to micro adjust my lenses. After I updated my firmware on my 7D I started to have softfocus issues. I got close on a few lenses and I was struggling on other lenses. Now I have a higher keeper rate and once again I have confidence with my equipment.

[@montygiavelli8125]

Some testers say the camera should be 50 times the focal length from the target. So a 200mm lens : 200mm*50=10000mm /25 mm/in = 400 inch /12 in/foot = 33 feet. Gets a little hard to manually focus accurately at that distance. For 100mm we get about 16 ft. This distance is pretty doable. It seems to me the best distance to test your autofocus would be the typical distance that you shoot for each of the focal lengths. At 200 mm I'm usallly pretty far away, so 33 feet might be ok. I'm in the process of doing this to an 80-200mm Nikon zoom. I'm finding that the focus is pretty good below 200mm but near 200mm I'm getting a lot of back focusing. I'm usually not in a rush so I could adjust the autofocus tuning while I'm shooting. I wouldn't want to do this at a wedding shoot. It seems to me that the only problem with this DotTune method is my inability to precisely manually focus. I do it in "Live View" but at smaller apertures it's hard to find the center of what seems to be in focus. I hunt back and forth and try to find the most accurate focus, but it's not easy. Other than that I like the method. After I've fine tuned the focus I will test it with some batteries standing up on a glass table. If the battery I aim at is the sharpest battery then I can call it a day.