Tested In-Depth: 3D Printing with Printrbot Simple Metal

[@frankmmiii]

Hey Guys,I'm new to 3D printing and just purchased a Printrbot Simple Metal today. While I was looking at the x-axis upgrade, I couldn't help but notice the heated bed option for printing ABS and other filament types. Little secret. The heating plate that mounts under the bed looks a lot like a heat pad I used for my pet Scorpion I had awhile back. Pet stores sell these heat pads pretty cheap and they have an adhesive backed side that would allow you to stick it to the underside of a glass fish tank to transmit heat and warm the sand or whatever medium was in there. I think the thermostat is adjustable(I think) on them and would work great for ABS and other filaments. The pads also come in different sizes I believe, but I haven't been out shopping for one in about 20 years. But if you're upgrading to the bigger x-axis platform and the heat plate is being included no need to attempt it, but I might.

[@TimmyTechTV]

21:39 Truer words have never been spoken!

[@oe2706]

high timmy

[@aricnorine9212]

I love these guys. A couple clarifications are in order: 1: The hotend on this machine is held in by both tension and a mechanical linkage from the extruder's bottom right screw. The barrel of the screw slides through a ridge in the PEEK barrier which locks it into the extruder. 2: Repetier-host was mentioned in relation to support structures before the discussion about slic3r began. To clarify, repetier has nothing to do with support structures. Repetier is just control software for the bot which provides easy access to slicing through cura, slic3r, or other dedicated slicer programs that are accessed within repetier-host. Supports will be as good as your configuration or model allow. 3: Warping on this printer will be no different than any other printer without a heated bed. Viewers should know that warping is a simply due to the physics of cooling plastic and are not due to printrbot's design. You'll get the exact same warping using a replicator 2 as with this machine all things being equal. They both blow ambient temperature air directly at the print to cool the plastic, so not even the enclosure matters too much in that regard. Love the show guys!

[@insightoftheages5571]

Norm... your pointing is fantastic.. you always do just a great job pointing at things!

[@nickademuss42]

I have this printer, its doing very well, I built a stand for it that holds the spool above the printer. it cut down the foot print and feeds without interruption. The warping can be cured with a different cooling fan shroud downloaded on Thingverse. Its caused by blowing air from one side. You can also cut the warping down by ediditing the config file in slic3r, tell it not to turn on the fan until 8 layers. Also change the default fill density from 20% to 40% and the fill is better... I have ordered the heated bed and will modify it as soon as it gets here :) I have also been using PLA filament from Hatchbox its about 20$ for 1kg, its very good and not 30$

[@histoplasmosis]

I love my all metal Printrbot simple. Glad you guys checked it out. I've pretty much been using Cura for all my slicing and printing needs. I have a raspberry pi set up with Octopi. I have upgraded to the heated build platform to avoid the bed adhesion and warping issues. The heated build plate completes this printer in my opinion and everyone needs one.

[@ian-c.01]

Why do I get the distinct impression that this was recorded straight after Will and Norm had a serious fight ? There is so much tension between the two that it's very distracting to watch, Will seems very angry and Norm seems to be doing things to annoy him.

[@lukecunningham8793]

Ian Clarke I felt the same way

[@Sc0pee]

When he's talking about not able to rotate the object in the MAC version 19:30 doesn't he have the rotate tool selected there on the upper left part of the screen? I have never used this software but it looks like the typical rotate objects icon.

[@bkofford]

Glue stick on the painter's tape keeps the prints on my pre-metal Simple from warping.

[@tested]

I'll try that out. Normal art supply glue sticks?

[@bkofford]

Tested, I use Scotch Permanent Glue Stick (6008). I am currently also using 2090 for my painters tape. It does work better for this.

[@karandex]

Tested use the glue stick which is colored and goes colorless after drying. also warping should not be issue with pla. see that you change the z offset so it prints first layer more squished or increase temp.

[@rdoetjes]

I stopped using gluestick on my UltiMakr it seems to be completely unnecessary for a heated bed.

[@rdoetjes]

Brian Kofford The tape gives a very nasty texture to the bottom of your print (which may be what you are after). But I actually like using the glass build platform to get a flat and pretty smooth face for my models.

[@hualon]

I use and love black gaffing tape on my Printrbot Simple Metal. The texture is great and the prints stick really well. I never pull up the tape to get the part off so the expensive tape lasts a really long time.

[@Chopsta123]

12:17 After Effects finished rendering?

[@MrHeHim]

Regarding how flat the base is, a slightly uneven surface WILL NOT "magnify".. i hear that all the time and i don't think you know what you think you know. You can be off by 0.05mm off and not have a problem (unless you print directly onto the bed without a raft), what happens is that the even if the beds z axes is not perfectly even the layers quickly even out because each layer that is too high up will "squash out" or each layer that is too low it will bead up and level out within one to two layers, and you won't see any of this if you print a raft. FYI, they sell blue painters tape that is much wider and you will only have to lay down two strips ;)

[@griceldaenciso1015]

gayybee quit being a smarty Pants!

[@beetrecords1054]

71 bbnnnn

[@TheDNAlexander]

Could you guys do an in-depth of the new Printrbot Metal Plus? Planning on getting one, I'd be interested to see how it compares.

[@the-xack]

nice review ;) some things to mention: - repetier is from germany ;) - on apple: drag the file onto the repetier icon in the dock to load it easily - rotate field is under the scale field - warping depends on the filament... some PLA roles warp some don't, depending on the quality of the filament excuse me for beeing a smart-ass ^^

[@zeretube]

Hello and thanks for the deep information about printrbot simple metal!! I was wondering if you already tested the Printrbot Metal Plus? I am about to purchase the metal plus because of the higher print space, but i just can´t find reviews about it. Do you recommend this one too?

[@gigamac2486]

It came 2nd in make magazine's 3d shootout, the first was the ultimaker 2, a high end commercial 3d printer, the best ever. So yeah buy it.

[@k_c_chen]

Not sure if it was mentioned previously, but oratape ht55 is also something to try in place of painters tape. Reusable and sample rolls can be found relatively cheap online ($3-8 for 6"x10yd)... I found it works best on a smooth surface, so a square of thick kapton over the enamel paint then the ht55. A tool, like fixit's metal spudger, to pry the print off helps to preserve the various tapes.

[@Hawkeye0918]

You mentinoned that model took 32 hours to print, is it safe to leave the printer going that many hours un attended if you have to go to work/sleep?

[@randallgillis9249]

To anyone who may have watched this video and ended up discouraged by how this machine operates based on how these two used it don't. I have had a printrbot metal simple w/ heated bed for a little under a week and after about an hour of calibration all i have to do is hit print its just that simple. This is second printrbot machine and it wont be my last. Printrbot makes great printers for the price thw two people in this video have no idea what thwy are talking we currently have 3 of these bots running in my household and never had a problem. So if you are looking for an affordable way to get started in 3d printing printrbot is your best bet .

[@PaulPatrin]

What were you rendering in Adobe during the shoot?

[@Yakeru35]

Did the printer jam sometimes during your prints ? Mine was jaming a lot, until I baught a high quality filament. An other company made an upgrade to expand the platform from 6x6" to 8x8" with a recess to install a heated plate as well. It works very well. I'm also in the process of installing a second extruder. Since the upgrade exists for the board, that you can order the parts from printrbot , it looks really easy. I just have to find a way to fix the second extruder on the arm. I was thinking about a metal plate that goes between the arm and the first extruder, extends the arm enought to add the second extruder in front of the first one.

[@MadmanDKDK]

Here's a tip if your tape is too sticky, just stick it on your shirt and pull it off and apply where you need it. All the itty bitty small hairs and fabric will take away ALOT of the adhesive quality on some of the more sticky tape.

[@farmjunk]

12:19 Adobe Media Encoder is done?

[@jamesmcintoshjr]

one way to get around warping on a flat surface is to simply angle it so you have as little contact with the bed as humanly possible. e.g. a small box can be printed on an edge, at 45 degrees, with a raft and without having issues with overhang. If it`s a big box, you can chamfer the edge thats in contact with the bed a bit so there`s more surface area to stick to the raft. 1 chamfered edges is better than a whole surface that`s warped!

[@aricnorine9212]

On this printrbot, the hotend is held into the extruder mechanism via both friction and the lower-right bolt.

[@phillipstephenson1597]

@ Tested: will you be testing the heated bed platform (add on) for the PrintrBot Simple?

[@Theicemonkeyjr]

Can you guys do a video on the form one or the cube home printer? they seem to be the first ones that are going to be easy to use and set up to go quickly, id love ot know your guys's thoughts. Awesome video :)

[@karandex]

dozuki with printrbot was already there for long time, they didnt have the metal ver. instruction there i think.

[@PavelPirogov]

Try glass cleaner. You will be surprised how easily model is removed from platform after single spray. Glass cleaner will get retracted under your model separating it from platform. It works perfectly on glass of heating bed and may also work on other platforms. So you don't need any film or tape just spray and wipe before printing to remove oil and spray once after printing to detach model. YW ;)

[@Chowmix12]

Can you test out soluble filament like HIPS as support material for printers with multiple extruders?

[@tomrevere9091]

You guys should review the printrbot play, Its really cool.

[@AdamBlackQuads]

Tested I spray hair-spray on my print bed, before every print. I barley ever change my tape, it always has chunks missing out of it. I also print everything using a 4mm brim, that seems to help alot. Regularly printing large flat prints (mini-quad frames) with no issues. Best of luck!

[@natenan5598]

Would u recommend this printer or the wooden one for a first time printer

[@SSJChar]

Could you run nichrome wire under the printbed and run a low voltage through it to make the bed heated?

[@hlevine10]

Out of interest what voltage would you put throught the wire. I have tried a burnt out the wire.

[@CertifiedNerdy]

Henry Levine It depends on the length, gauge and material blend of your wire. These are all factors that change your resistance. Once you know your wire resistance you can use ohms law (i=v/r) to find the voltage you need. A common combination is 1.1-1.3 ohms heat bed @12v. Of course it would have to be different if you have no thermistor to monitor the bed.

[@tested]

Typically, you used a bunch of resistors on a circuit board, and then attach that to the build platform from below to make it heated. I haven't looked at the kit Printrbot sells though.

[@hlevine10]

Tested I thought as much. However would you get the current from the printrboard or an external source.

[@SSJChar]

Tested You guys should try making your own heated platform with this idea. It doesn't sound overly hard and I'm sure you guys could source all the parts and you guys definitely should know someone with a bit of electrical background. using a potentiometer should let you dial it in pretty well. It'd keep the bed nearly the same thickness too, which looks like could be important with the belt under it.

[@johncarr123]

They now have Cura profiles and recommend that software. Can you do an updated report using Cura?

[@andythompson3716]

so would u benefit from building a heated box or cabinet to put it in ???

[@enyoc3d]

try 208C instead of 200C - i get less warping at 208; also warping and relative humidity seem to be linked, dry air seems to be better. (using "justpla" brand 1.75mm)

[@t0ffluss]

For printers without heatd buildplate: use glass buildplate and hairspray! Works perfect!! No warping with PLA.

[@adbacker666]

Note: I did buy/add a heated print bed to my printrbot simple (the older, wooden frame one) and that did the trick to give me dead-flat PLA (yes...pla) prints. Elsewise everything printed with a small to large amount of warp ~ even with blue painters tape, tape + hairspray...everything. (the prints would actually pull the tape up off the print bed...!) Problem *totally* gone with a heated bed. So....$99 heated bed upgrade. Just do it. (OR...you could try my first hackish solution, which also worked...which was putting the printer in a cardboard box and pointing a small space heater at the bed. Worked, but I was always worried that I'd set the house on fire. :-) )

[@TheGuardian163]

I'd probably put a heated plate at first on it, let it warm the "bed", then move it away when ready to get started hey wait, could you print few small pieces for me? I did interlocking pieces (not Lego) and need to know if they interlock properly, it would also show me the print quality with this printer (buying one very very soon) would you do that for me?

[@adbacker666]

TheGuardian163 (If you're replying to "me") ... my printrbot is currently on semi long-term loan to my kids' school, so I don't have it available for printing anytime soon.

[@66tbird1]

Good review and update. Seemed like a good robot print from an open air printer.

[@DSperformance96]

What watch are you wearing?

[@chrisjackson8427]

Would the optional heated build platform get rid of tge warping

[@rethonn]

I have a question what glue would you use if you wanted to glue two parts of a abs or pla printed model together (abs to abs, pla to pla or abs to pla?)

[@VAXHeadroom]

PLA really needs a heated build platform, but only up to about 50C (ABS needs more like 85C-100C). With a heated build platform, you can use kapton tape and an ABS slurry, it sticks to that darn well and the results on the bottom will be VERY smooth. AND you won't have the warping problems, I've printed open shell boxes that are only 5 shells thick and are 9"x10"x6"(tall) with no warping or splitting. Go find the "Essential calibration Set" on ThingIverse!! Taking the time to go through the calibrations is REALLY worth it in the long run. I've got my systems dialed into about 0.03% :) How fast a print speed can you run on this? My thing-o-matic can run ABS up to 100mm/s, my Leapfrog Creatr can run ABS at about 65 and PLA up to about 100. Speed is really dependent on the hot-end's heating capability, the Mk7 head on the thing-o-matic is much better than the Creatr...

[@tested]

I have never even really needed the ABS slurry with Kapton at 60C for PLA. It just sticks really well if you clean it.

[@VAXHeadroom]

I've been mostly using ABS until recently, thanks for the tip :)

[@thequixotryworkshop2424]

Anyone knows why this little printer was discontinued, and if there is any more support for it in 2021?

[@PrimalRenegade17]

Can you use filaments other than PLA such as ABS and Ninjaflex like you can with the Makerbot?

[@Hogger301]

I have to say. With the reviews from MAKE magazine, and all the you tube reviews for the Printrbot Metal Simple. I purchased mine 2 years ago. It has been a bullet proof design, and I have since installed all the upgrades.The biggest fail for them was not maintaining that essential price point. The Pro just doesn't add up in price.

[@shatfield]

Do a review on the Da Vinci 1.0 3d Printer compared to the simple metal

[@EasyDYITech]

whats the name of the software that fixes stl files

[@GUNVALKERIE]

For the Printrbot Simple Metal... Can you tell me what type of mother board and program settings do you have?... Cause the one I have isn't printing the way it's suppose to and it's wrecking every print I make I have tried just about everything I can think of from adjusting setting in the program to adjusting the printer itself it's quite frustrating... any instructions would be most helpful :)

[@sebianoti]

I have no interest in 3D printers and yet I watched the entire video... What am I doing with my life!?

[@DaveMalby]

Same here ... hahahaha

[@Wulable]

Can you guys look into a printer that does metal?

[@alyssahenley]

my prints aren't sticking to the painters tape… coming up too easily. AND I need those yellow spool towers you have!!!

[@Hypohair]

very good video, highly informative. It's okay to smile guys :)

[@eastwardExpansion]

Cura, Cura, Cura!!! The best 3d printing software.

[@mannymoogolf]

when can I use the 3D printer I don't know where to go?

[@artemwashere6103]

Can I print with gold on this one?

[@phillipstephenson1597]

I bought this assembled it worked great for about 1 month, but then failed. It initially seemed to be an issue with the inductive probe, after replacing the probe twice (once with a probe from amazon, and on from printrbot) the M119 command still shows z stop triggered. Any suggestions. LEDs come on and off as expected, Verified wiring, and that the HV jumper is still in place. Any suggestions appreciated.

[@vladimirzz93]

Which one would you recommend me to buy? A "Prusa i4" or this one? thanks a lot!

[@thenerdling1]

prusa i3, make sure it has a metal frame

[@vladimirzz93]

thenerdling1 . thanks a lot for your answer, have you read about this new prusa i4 or prusa i3 plus? it has some upgrades and a solid frame.

[@thenerdling1]

i personally have a copy of a prusa i3, it prints pretty good, simple to make and easy to get parts for. it has a plastic frame though. ive read some good reviews on the wanhao duplicator i3 and the original prusa i3. im not sure what ones you mean because heaps of companies use the same name

[@Conundrummy]

I'd like to check out the robot model but cannot for the life of me find the files online can anyone point me in the right direction? Any links? Thanks!

[@Conundrummy]

Hey guys I found the files. Doh here they are here if anyone is interested in printing it themselves. www.thingiverse.com/thing:331035

[@RianEffendi]

Any chance you could demo a laser sintering printer? Really love the idea of printing steel/alloy... Plastic not so much. Carbon reinforced plastics sound very promising.... Wonder if your machines can use it? Maybe changing out the nozzle/heat part? Anyway that's what the giant printer in Chicago is using for their 3d printed car

[@spaz_chicken]

You guys should look for transfer tape. It can be had on ebay or various other online suppliers (signwarehouse.com). It comes in almost any width you could want. 3M makes it, but there are other brands as well. You can also choose your tack based on what works well for you. It's mostly used in the signs & graphics industry, but it would lend itself well to this application.

[@timmehjimmeh]

12:18 Best sound on Earth :P Until your class-mate makes it his message alert tone!

[@Wulable]

How many years away do you think we are from a single machine at home that takes in raw materials such as plastic, metal wire and textile spools and spits out something you model on a computer?

[@KevinKanNguyen]

There is already one out on kick starter I believe. I think it only does plastics but it's exactly what you have in mind. Cost is about 2000$

[@Wulable]

Kevin Nguyen I'm more interested in a machine that can 3D print with multiple materials simultaneously.

[@onthercworkbench8700]

Use the Uline brand blue painters tape that Printrbot sells. It works awesome. No rubbing alcohol needed. For big parts or little parts...Just stick, print, repeat.

[@MattStultz]

Elmers school glue sticks will stop your curling. A heated bed is on the way also but that is more for printing various other materials like ABS. PLA doesn't cool quickly and that's why it doesn't warp. PLA cools slowly and that's why you need the fan. It doesn't curl because PLA doesn't shrink as mush when it cools as say ABS. ABS needs the heated bed not only to help it stick, but also to more evenly cool the print and reduce shrink, curl, and cracking. As far as spool holders go I have a couple of these and they make it so I don't have to have a holder sized to the tons of different filament spools that I have: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036OQWTU/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0036OQWTU&linkCode=as2&tag=30701-20&linkId=EYFBHGEI4QQE4EG4

[@Andromora]

I just listen the After Effects render sound at 12:17...

[@insightoftheages5571]

INCORRECT ASSEMBLY - you will want to fix... it looks to me that the hot end is not pressed up far enough into the aluminum holder. I think you put the crimp screw in first then tightened it... you need to take the crimp screw out... then press the hotend all the way flush to the top of the holder. The screw will go into the groove in the hotend preventing it from moving down. ..!!!

[@sgfx]

If your wheels are warping .. your doing it wrong.. I have a printrbot (for about a year) and use 3m blue tape from the hardware. or elmers stick glue. and warping is a rare issue for me. and accuracy is very good if you properly calibrate it. (hours not days) Environment temperature is important mine works better if the room is 70-80 degrees fahrenheit.

[@xanokothe]

Remote access? great ideia!

[@RianEffendi]

@tested you guys should do a piece on the 3d printed car that's being printed atm, apparently will be ready to roll out of the plant in Chicago by Sunday. Called the Strati, check it out ppl

[@willybilly99]

32:35 failed lol why in the earth it won't stick? i mean we're not making omelet they shoulda make aluminum bed for rough or sticky i dont how but they should do something about it without making us stick tape all over

[@chriseverett5362]

just watched the whatever USA add and they had a baxter robot serving drinks. i need this.

[@SelageD]

I want one so bad right now! I really want to 3D print an Iron Man helmet, I even have the STL Files already, just need the printer! :(

[@ben_hewitson_AU]

Im happy with my simple metal. I've got the matrix precision larger build volume upgrade and a heated bed. 100 times better now. Prints nice and flat

[@frankmmiii]

Stupid me. I should have checked Printrbot's site first. They have the 6x6 heater cheaper than my idea of a heat pad for reptiles and I'm pretty sure it gets hotter and fits better.

[@qb9044]

Im looking to buy one not sure if i want printrbot, Da vinci or the ultimaker?

[@FutureLaugh]

ide love to see some clock engineer draft a 3d elaborate automaton and print them out for children

[@AviPars]

Hairspray works great for me. I also have a glass bed..

[@benphillips2947]

Stuff's come a long way in 3 years. I got my 3D printer for $200 and it has 2 more inches in every direction. Also, this video makes slicing look like a pain in the ass. It's a lot easier nowadays. One program does everything.

[@valeriomascia8143]

hi! I have the first printerbot simple (wood).. a month ago when i was printing the electricy in my lab turned off and stopped my print! after that my printer doesn't work.. the green led in the motherboard is working but I can't control the printer from my cpu.. someone have an advise to solve it?

[@CookieCraftMedia]

Thats such nonsense... The assembled Printrbot Simple Metal is still cheaper than the Kit here in Germany. I just hate it how disadvantaged we are here in Germany in therms of technical stuff. I'd wish to be a part of the makers in America but I guess I can't...

[@MrBartleby451]

CookieCraftMedia Much the same here in the UK. It cost me so much money in shipping when I bought a 3D printer from the US as they are so difficult to get hold of, even now.

[@garrettpierce7083]

try the software called Cura

[@Nyihm226]

anything that moves, even without any good resolution, can be greatly improved by silicone lubricant

[@Inquisitoraus]

Printing using a raft can help to stop warping.

[@bobbarker1667]

Just add a bed of plastic and you wont get the lifting in the software you can select an option to have the printer make platform it works great with printers that dont have a warmer happy printing made the same car with same printer it works great and it should not take you 32 hrs to make that robot what percentage of fill are you using 3 to 5 percent is sufficient

[@apastoys5153]

Very cool Guys!

[@JonnyBGaming1]

haha Norm ''thats a crappy camera''

[@rdoetjes]

That software is pretty slow and looks overly complicated compared to Cura.

[@TheFirestorm114]

Norm anoying with his gesture ...

[@mcheddadi]

OMG NORMAN! this isn't the price is Right!!! please stop it with the unceasing pointing and stroking of every aspect of what you need to show! please!

[@qUICK3558]

hand gestures!! Thumbs up!

[@altamiradorable]

Know the software before you review it !!! Rotation is on top left !

[@Hunt3rNz]

>his white , we can't see him

[@Hunt3rNz]

***** i was quoting the video

[@whozconphuzzed]

***** I'm racist, I hate spiders and flies!!!

[@radabize]

3d printers are so cool =]

[@virustwin]

the amount of mis-information in this video is staggering. If you are looking for a review before you buy, do NOT use this video as a reference

[@Hypohair]

+virustwin Hi, could you be more specific please?

[@virustwin]

+Hypohair Honestly i dont even know where to begin. THe first thing is that they called it a PLA printer. Thats like buying a blender and some carrots and then doing a video, saying "first of all, this is a carrot blender". This printer will print any other material (and there are a lot - ABS is the most popular) that the other FDM printers available will print. Secondly, the argument that it needs a heated bed to print objects without warping is completely false. Pla doesn't warp much by nature, but i've printed petg, abs and even nylon without warping before upgrading to a heated bed (google printing abs and nylon to see why thats a big deal). also read this article that compares this 600 printer with a 22000 printer as an example of what this printer is actually capable of www.hanselman.com/blog/3DPrinterShootout600PrintrbotVs20000UPrintSEPlus.aspx. and for a proper demonstration and exp of this printer, watch thomas sandlanderer's and maker's muse's videos on youtube.

[@Hypohair]

+virustwin Thanks ever so much :) I had no idea. Also cheers for the blog links,

[@MrBartleby451]

So the Asian guys job is just to wave his hands around in the most annoying, effeminate and pointless manner he can think of? Good job mate.

[@hunter3333333]

So basically wait a couple of years before you buy one as there as too many glitches!!!

[@TheRevolucas]

Norm and them sound effects. lol

[@doctorstan21]

Why don't you review the da Vinci printer $500 works like an ink jet. no fuss no problems if you leave it alone and don\'t mod it. I have hade 3 other do-it-yourself printers and they are great for hacker mentality. But if you just want to produce parts with no fuss the Da Vinci is the way to go.

[@MrBartleby451]

I used to have on of the original Printrbot Simple 3D printers that cost the same $399 post shipping (I live in the UK). It was a steep learning curve and never printed anything worth keeping. Its not a great choice for a first printer as this and printers like it are so unreliable every print is a role of the dice. No good for kids as it advertised, it would be the best way to turn them off the whole subject in fact.

[@MrBartleby451]

Yeah looks ok but still very user intensive even by their own admission. I quite like the look of the M3D printer same price $300+ aprox

[@ssvn1532]

1st and I don't care but amazing 3D printer