Adam Savage's Guide to Vacuum Forming!

[@tested]

Visit www.kiwico.com/tested to get 50% off your first month of KiwiCo with code TESTED Adam Savage's Favorite Tools: Great Budget Vacuum Former: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iIjbdKmDr9urorM Budget Dental Vacuum Former: amzn.to/3uYd3Ez .03" Styrene sheets: amzn.to/3pwUQwH

[@metern]

How tall can an item be when vacuumforming? Is it as tall as the sheets are wide?

[@toddhill1574]

I don’t see the name of the styrene dealer that was going to be linked. Please post a link. Thanks !

[@epremeaux]

I really felt like the newb at the shop, and the boss said "hey.. Adam is over there using the vac-former.. go.. uh.. LEARN something." And I was like "Hey Adam. Whachadoin?" Now we are just hanging around the former as he casually firehoses a lifetime of knowledge and enthusiasm in between frantic pulls. It was the most natural "you are really there" videos in a while.

[@jamesalbrecht395]

Adam, just a suggestion for your vacuum former. You might want to think about adding a foot switch to turn on your vacuum, being you seem to need two hands to drop your plastic and use your helper. It may help if you use a foot switch to parallel the foot switch with your vacuum toggle switch. To allow you to let off of your foot switch and still keep the vacuum running. ( added thought )

[@davidgutting4317]

I have an old radio shack foot switch with a pass through plug that will turn on a shop vac this way, no wiring needed. I also worked on a machine with a push button under the frame that kicked on the vaccume the moment it hit the plate.

[@iamsick5204]

Or have the switch on the same side as one of the handles

[@jeffmarden9502]

Came here to say this!

[@barcodenosebleed5485]

Added a foot switch to my drill press. Changed my life.

[@cblair1353]

Yep, I had the same thought about halfway through the video. A foot pedal to activate the vacuum might be really handy for his setup.

[@crispy_338]

Adam, you are an ocean of knowledge. Sharing a few splashes with us is always desperately needed in the amateur making community. A “how to” video from you is incredibly valuable

[@Warshipmodelsunderway]

When I design a buck for vacuum forming, I put it on a tapered pedestal to elevate the part about the bed. I put a bevel on the top of the pedestal to put a cutoff line at the bottom of the part. I can then take a Sharpie, draw into the groove, and that gives me an easy to see cut line. Someone else mentioned having compressed air on hand - you can drill small holes into the master pattern to provide air channels to suck down the plastic into difficult areas. By cutting a countersink on the bottom of the pedestal where the hole exits you have a place where you can put the rubber tip of your blow gun to help with the de-molding process. These air channels do leave small depressions on the part, but they are easily filled, or can be placed in areas that are later cut away. This makes pulling the part off the buck much easier.

[@Lanka0Kera]

The few tips not included (& also upgrade suggestion for mr Savage): - have a compressed air pistol around if you can - you can use it to cool down the plastic faster and also blast air between the blank & plastic if it gets stuck (less destructive than mechanically prying parts apart with pliers etc.) - FOOT PEDAL for suction is such a helpful thing when you're already doing 2+ things with your hands and trying to precision anything. Back in UAS we had this -60'ish industrial 50x50 cm vacuum former *thing* to first learn with and it had massive bent bar for foot "pedal" that moved the parts & jammed them together.

[@aybarsyldz397]

Just like some parts of your audience, i am also interested in vacuum forming; yet don't have any practical experience. I also suffer from ADHD, stumbling upon a video of you covering not just how to do things but also mentioning the background (what to feel when you fail, especially.) boosted my mood in a way i cannot even describe; As i also know the hardships of learning a hobby-job (or in your case, literally art) with a condition literally acts against any sort of progress, I can safely say that what you do here is not just teaching stuff but literally being a beacon of hope. One may watch hours of motivation videos, but nothing will replace your genuine and sincere explanations about your experiences. Thanks for everything.

[@brigfiche]

My concealed carry inside the waistband holster is vacuum formed. It's very low profile and I love the technology of VAC forming.

[@stanthegarbageman]

I wish you would make more videos like this, Adam. I understand the hesitation, but you have a unique cross section of skills, and sharing your knowledge and techniques would be a huge benefit for makers everywhere.

[@josephhall5136]

This dude is just an amazing human being.

[@twestgard2]

Hey bro, you don’t have to be the top, the best, the end all be all. In fact the most helpful thing, and the most healthy thing, is to just show one way that works. You have great filming and editing skills, so you’ll make really helpful videos for entry level folks like me. If someone else has a way to improve on what you show, then great! I still want to see several people do it their way.

[@twestgard2]

And the gusset problem, followed by the ring technique: great example of how imperfections make a fantastic, useful video!

[@twestgard2]

Aaaaand the blister pack aspect was not obvious to me and it’s something I have been trying to fix! And now I have a solution.

[@TrevorHigginsDustysqueak]

Adam is the reason I built a vacuformer years ago. It’s 30” x 28” platten, de-icing heater elements, an old air compressor tank and a vacuum pump from a printing press. Works great.

[@aaronsnare9280]

I used to make hot tubs, we would vacuum form 9ftx9ft sheets of 5/32 thick acrylic. We formed over negative molds that was made of fiberglass and bodyfiller. They had interchangeable parts that would key in, like head rests, neck jets, or crotch jet.... 1 thing we did was 1/16 drill holes in the inside corners because the vacuum would struggle to pull detail as the air became locked in the voids of parts

[@JaggedNZ]

When I was studying industrial design I was taught to use thin piano wire cut to a chisel tip with heavy side cutters as a long drill bit. We made bucks from MDF and filler and would drill many small holes in concave edges to help the plastic pull in where we needed it too. Our machine had hand pump vacuums and preformed surprisingly well.

[@starfleetau]

What I love as some one who's tutored and taught and has ADHD.. is to watch Adam, bouncing around the topics like I do.. I've had some people go 'can you just focus on x'.. not realising that our brains are jumping to the tangents and we will cover everything.. just.. let us go.. you'll get more info than you ever imagined.. unless we have gone full ADHD and forget what we were meant to be doing. Few also understand the full challenges of being a semi functional adult with ADHD.

[@jeffsaxton2051]

The Vac-U-Form machine was made by Ron Charles & Associates (RC Vac-U-Form) in Wilmette, Illinois (Chicago area), circa 1988 to 1991. ​​I recently inherited the smallest sized machine from my old employer, a St. Louis area professional model shop that just closed. That machine was $450 new in January 1990. The 'Deluxe' model allowed for use of 9" x 12" sheet stock (8" x 11" usable space); the 'Deluxe XL' was made for 12" x 18" sheet stock (11" x 17" usable), and the 'Supra Deluxe' used 16" x 24" (15" x 23" usable). The 'Deluxe' model measured 24" tall, and the footprint was 13" x 10.5". It weighed about 35 pounds.

[@Warshipmodelsunderway]

Another source from around the same time period was Lone Wolf Productions - I have an 12 x 9, and a 6 x 4 inch from them. They had a slightly better construction, with an integrated clamping system for the sheet, and variable temperature control, although I almost always form on full power.

[@eviltoadstudios]

I scored the 9x12 model on ebay many years ago, its very nice

[@Endelin]

I got that 5" x 5" vacuum former for dentists that you mentioned a while back. I've been using the sides of gallon milk jugs to make reusable catfood can lids. Thanks for sharing even more knowledge.

[@peterkallend5012]

Same with me, then I dialed it up to 11 and made my own 14" x 14" one. Such useful tools for makers.

[@thatmikie72]

Back when the first LotR movie was going to be released I with some friends made a few orcs for a local convention contest. We spent 3 months with ABS sheets, a vacuum former and heat guns. We used bad pulls of C-3PO pieces to create 2 Moria orcs. We even hand cut and molded the helmets that took two days each. I love how quick yet easy to do with simple stuff. We had a 2'x2' table made out of 2x4"s and steel mesh, pulled with a restricted shopvac. We took first place in the contest and we got to meet Sean Austin in costume.

[@nat7278]

My first job was at a thermoform plastics company in Auburn WA. They had bottom and top platins. The bottom platin would push the buck up into the plastic and when needed the top platin would have the "helper" box that would come down as the bottom platin was coming up and would meet in the middle and completely eliminate gussets when dialed in. The smallest vac oven was 4'x5' and the largest was 6'x8'. They had a fireman's hat that you would sign when you f'd up the timing and had the whole sheet of plastic melt down into the lower heating elements that were covered with chicken wire to prevent direct melt down into the elements. It was fantastic job for a young maker. They let me go after I complained about bloodborn contaminant risk after a worker horribly cut himself bandsaw cutting uphill and got blood everywhere. Worst bandsaw injury I'd ever seen.

[@davidgutting4317]

If you have a DLP printer and print a cavity (negative) of the part you want you can get all the surface detail and use a thick 2mm material. I’ve used this process to model up injection formed plastic enclosures for tools and shells for products. Plaster casts of objects works too (how I learned in the 90’s) and the vaccume form can pick up leather texture and stone granular surfaces this way. The best part is any webs you get are all on the inside and you can get pulls that can go straight to paint with no sanding.

[@spazmcgillacutty]

I used to work for Lockheed Martin on the external tank for the Space Shuttle program. I got to do some vac-form work in the R&D department making test mock-ups. Most people didn't care for it. I thought it was fascinating!!

[@cyvation]

As an orthopedics technician trainee: vacuum forming test sockets from 400x400x15 mm sheets of thermoplastics onto plaster positives is about 1/3 of what I do all day. It's always fascinating. Wonderful to see that basic technique being used for so many different things as well!

[@dwayne_draws]

Thank-you for sharing your knowledge! Every time I watch you using this vacuum former I think it would make it much easier to do solo with a foot pedal to turn on the vacuum.

[@chuchuchip]

As a kid I had gotten (I think it was Mattel) vacuum form machine. It took 4" x 4" sheets so you made about 1:87 scale boats & cars (all I can remember). Big machine, had a flipping sheet holder that sat over the heater, then you flipped the holder over the mold & pressed a built in hand pump to draw the soft plastic over the mold. Wish I had it now that I know how to do vacuum forming right. Would be making a lot of detail loads for my trains.

[@wmrg1057]

Still have mine. Had to keep the vacuum hand pump "lubed" with vasoline..

[@chuchuchip]

@@wmrg1057 When I signed up for the Navy. a lot of my stuff was "put away" for me.

[@davidtomasetti8520]

I spent part of my youth as a sign builder,, we used to vacuum form giant sign faces that was quite an exercise!!

[@tested]

Giant face signs?! We’re in!

[@DAS-Machina]

What you are calling a gusset is usually referred to as webbing. The "helper" is a great idea. I have also been told that if you get a lot of webbing that you can try heating the plastic less. I have heard both let the plastic sag the height of your buck and let the plastic sag half of the height of the buck. Professional machines have thermostats and temperature displays so the exact desired temperature for a specific buck can be dialed in.

[@lupuscaligarius]

Mr Savage, I adore your work and want to thank you deeply for sharing your wisdom. The joy you show about your work is incredible. All the best for you and your loved ones.

[@PhilG999]

As a part of my R/C hobby I paint and detail Lexan bodies for my cars and trucks. The interesting part is they are painted on the inside, so you have to reverse the process, doing the details first and the main body color last. One challenge is mixing the Acrylic lacquer paint because the factory automotive colors are based on Enamel and nothing matches easily! For example, '57 Chevy Turquoise has FIVE colors in it! I have an old Hot Rod magazine with paint dots all up and down the margins from mixing a batch for a '57 Chevy pickup I did as a "Cameo" (white top). One trick I discovered is to use a "Sharpie" marker to detail panel lines on the outside of the body. Make a mistake and a little rubbing alcohol takes it right off... I worked (briefly) for a vacuum forming company years ago and we used 4x8 foot sheets of ABS and HDPE to make (among other things) golf cart bodies and school bus dashboards. BIG patterns and incredible details!

[@wanglydiaplt]

There's another kind of 'helper' that is easy to make that you might like to know about: saw up some little wooden trapezoids (4 sided truncated pyramids) and position them near where you expect to get drooping folds. This will give the extra plastic something else to do, so to speak. I used to vacuform plastic hatch covers and other features for model boats and this trick gave us perfect parts every time. Never tried baby powder as a release; thanks for that! 🙂

[@kimbraun0823]

This video brought back memories. When I was young, in the. 60's, I had a toy vacuformer. It took a 3 x 3 sheet of plastic. The heater was beside the vacuum plate, with a hinge. When the plastic was hot enough to sag, you flipped it over the form and pumped the vacuum manually as fast as you could.

[@jayandry3392]

Matel made a vacuform toy. Coveted by older airplane modelers. I made my own 4c4 and 5x5 ,I use a heat gun. Quick and dirty works great.

[@RedArrowProject]

I encountered an opportunity to do packaging design for a new product. Knowing of Vacu-forming as a method but, not having enough experience with the methods I needed some good information. As always, Adam came through. In just a few moments of watching Adam, I have enough information to have a first go at prototype packaging for the project. I also learned I can build-out a vacu form rig for the prototype without having to buy a production machine. So WIN WIN! Thanks Adam. Keep up the good work!

[@JonathanFaber]

One trick I've used is an alternate version of your helper. A bigger (not taller) ring around the buck under the plastic, so you pull over it. Really helps eliminate webbing.

[@NathanGates-nr4wl]

Currently an industrial design student and I use a vacuum former for a couple of models for my projects. such an amazing tool.

[@LusiferSam1]

This video is very timely. I know you said this isn't a how to video, but this still very helpful to me. I recently start vac forming and learned a lot of useful tips for problem I've encountered. I've mostly been experimenting on stuff from around the house. Small bowls, lids, old phone cases, tent stakes (big mistake), and some small boxes. My favorite has been a tea infuser. A lot of gussets around that one. But now I know a couple of way to deal with those, thanks.

[@wrathofhoeth]

they way i see it, Adam is more of a town at a crossroad, pulling things in from different places and exposing many things that i would not have found on my own

[@robpugh0829]

When you mentioned kydex, that is used to make many different things, especially gun holsters, and some of the ways that is vac formed is just incredible, to include using a vacuum former that has a membrane so you can use smaller size sheets.

[@David1962.]

As a Sign Fabricator for 40 years your explaination of the TESTD Brand was spot on. the way that I do may not be the best way. You half to find you Own. Human's

[@MD-zf5yy]

Hey Adam, awesome guide! Some additional information about models, though. As an avid model builder NOT all models are PS! I have quite a few that are ABS. Definitely check what material the kit you're modifying is made with when you make your plan of attack. It's usually indicated somehow in the manual or on the runner itself.

[@T62vair]

Love seeing this. I work industrial maintenance for a manufacturing plant. We produce Togo boxes by thermo- vacuum forming. Seeing the large production at work all the way to this scale is truly unique.

[@phelpstylerb]

One detail that wasn't covered, that I have noticed doing vacuum forming, was the stages of how the plastic gets soft. First the plastic warps and softens unevenly. Then you'll see it smooth back out nearly to its original shape. This is the start when you can pull. Lastly, it starts to droop. For ABS and other thick materials, you might need to heat it till it starts smoking. Another method of getting a clean edge on the base of the part is to raise it a bit off the vacuum plate then "ride" the vacuum so it doesn't undercut too much. It's crazy the materials and the objects you can vacuum form. I once used 1/8" polycarbonate. We had to heat it up to a crazy amount which expanded the gas inside, creating a cool texter of air bubbles. We were pulling mushrooms for a tree for Meow Wolf, and we had to pull about 30 of them. Our vacuum form was a wreck after that. I've also vacuum formed piles of gold with seashells, skulls, crabs, and chains. Things that you would never vacuum form but if you do it right and a tiny bit of patchwork and a good paint job, it can turn out amazing.

[@Cap10VDO]

Maker expertise collision: A fellow maker and skilled saddler saw me vacuforming, and suggested I try a boning tool--like she uses for shaping wet leather over a buck--to reduce buttresses and improve detail. I substituted a tongue depressor first (since I had one on hand), but the boning tool is better because it has different contours you can use, and holds up better. Now one lives in a pocket on the side of my former. But you have to be quick!

[@snmworks1037]

Thank you for this! I recently got my first vacuum form device, I'm making chocolate molds as my first run with it. I got lucky getting mine. The store my partner works at has a customer friend who regularly goes thrifting and found about ten small vacuum machines at a Re-Store, he bought them all and was selling them for $10.00 to makers who were interested.

[@davidbrennan7422]

Love this, Ive been wanting to build a vacuum former for ages. I think the foot pedal idea people have mentioned is a great one. I would also say move the clamp for the frame to another side so it not in your way when you pull the plastic down.

[@Hollywoodbadger]

I love all the different names for moulds, bucks etc Ive always called those ‘gussets’ webbing 😀 Ive often used an off cut of wood to help push the plastic down to avoid them. Can sometimes use a sacrificial bit of wood next to where its forming to slow it down

[@yt650]

I don't know if anyone has covered this but you mentioned especially on the small vacuum forming machines which I now own thanks to you, you can get polystyrene in colors if you want to use solo brand plastic dinner plates. They make them in red and blue for sure and I watched the demonstration of a solo plastic plate being vacuum formed. Obviously someone is making the product for solo.

[@syranth8912]

I LOVE THE IDEA OF "STEAM" !!! This has to be the standard!!!!!

[@billbucktube]

Thanks for continuing to share “what happened” videos!

[@fryfrom98]

I worked making visibility balls for power lines for a few years, brutal HOT work. ABS sheets go into oven the size of a car, while its warming up we hop in the form and wipe down the mold to keep it cool, jump out before the oven opens and plastic comes out, form comes together on the plastic vacuums engage, pull it out load another. easier than working at the woodmill throwing 2x4 and plywood all day

[@simontapp9219]

We used to form with ABS and HIPS and we found that hips would sag, tighten then sag a second time. The second sag was the golden spot. Our vacuum former was an oven and a mdf side dresser with a hole drilled in it and an old vacuum cleaner fitted in it. We used off cut tiles to raise the form off the dresser as to not plug over the vacuum hole. Was still an effective vacuum former though

[@chrisharper2658]

Suggestions... 1) Add a foot pedal to start the vacuum with maybe a latching relay/contactor to latch it on and a stop button on the cabinet. 2) Maybe something like a darkroom timer to monitor/control the heat up time. More useful for the thicker materials. Then you can keep notes on times for the various materials. I had instrument cases made from the thicker ABS type stuff and when you mentioned using very thin polystyrene the only thing I could think of were those cheap Halloween masks you wore as a kid.

[@saccaed]

Considered putting a touch switch on the edge of the base to automatically turn on the vacuum when the plastic is brought down? If the existing vacuum switch is kept in the switch circuit it could allow for manual and automatic modes of turning on vacuum.

[@ejicon3099]

Adam, you should sign all of these test vacuum molds and sell them as limited edition art on your website. Thanks for sharing all of these great tips and tricks. Nicely done.

[@joeholm4591]

I can just barely remember, when I was a kid, 60+ yrs ago, there was a vacuum forming toy by Mattel(?). Turn it on, set a plastic blank over the form, turn it n, you could made part to build an army jeep, I think. Wanted one desperately.

[@nithazra]

I am so grateful for this ADHD teaching seminar. I bounced around a lot, actually.

[@kirknitz3794]

Every time you mention vacuum forming, it brings back childhood memories. In the early 1960s, the kid next door had a vacuformer from Mattel.

[@kurogiza]

Of the two plastic pieces you show at 3:47, the cone shaped one is from a Kenner b-wing. It's the rear part of the cockpit, if I'm right.

[@kurogiza]

Just to add, I love this video, and it is timely, since I just built my own vacuum former because the Kenner b-wing I have is missing it's canopy. I plan to shape one out of PETG.

[@zakuraayame5091]

now that I've been working at a horse farm, 'mucking it up' has a deeper meaning; great exercise tossing 30 gal muck tubs though! p.s. I'd Red Green the cart with some brackets; 'it's only temporary unless it works!' I think is the saying? :) Adam has such a beautiful personality it brightens up rough times.

[@AnthonyAnthony-tk4ye]

Ha! Back in the day in printing if our powder sprayer was down we would put powder in a couple of shop rags and rubber band them for the same purpose! For anyone interested; offset printing presses have a air powder sprayer that sprays just a little bit of powder on top of each sheet in the delivery stack for coated paper to keep the wet ink from offsetting onto the back of the next sheet…. We only used it for coated stock like Gloss and Matte

[@Lanka0Kera]

Vacuum forming and learn by mistake; I won't forget (probably ever) ruining piece of perfectly good polycarbonate sheet for making a mock-up of a food container back in UAS studying industrial design. Weell.. ruining is one way to describe it - turning it into art is another. :P It was left-over piece that had been sitting on shelf for years so it should had been put into oven over night to dissipate/draw moisture out of it. I however didn't know that at the time, all I knew was that "oh, that's perfect size for my lid" and vacuum formed it as is. It does its job as the lid, sure, but it's also very artistic with millions tiny bubbles that popped up when the sheet was heated up. You know.. invisible water "droplets" that are sucked into plastic in improper storage put under 500+ celsius heating coil for ~30 seconds => very *artistic* gas expansion. All I can say 8 years later is that it was very good demonstration of how plastic really grabs moisture from air in storage - and how happy I am that the piece actually was mostly a scrap piece because how expensive 2mm clear polycarbonate sheet is - got a bit chewed from our teacher for wasting it but overall turned into a learning experience so hey..

[@compt3ck]

I worked in the dental industry for years and we used vacuum forming all the time. There's lots of different materials you can use if you look into it. Also they use smaller form factor vacuum machines in dental that you can find secondhand every once in a while for cheap.

[@Tea_and_Crafts]

Adam my mom makes sugar flowers as a hobby and a number of years ago she bought herself a Wilton Cornstarch Duster. It does exactly what your bandana hack does and comes in its own self-contained container.

[@BlueDually4x4]

A vacuum former is on my list of things I need to build myself. It would be great to make a nice body for radio control vehicles and be able to easily just make a fresh one when it gets too beat up.

[@ericspohn155]

Perfect time for this video , I was just messing around trying to vacuum form a blister pack for a custom figure I made. After a few fails i should be getting some more plastic today for attempt #2. Thanks for the tips

[@Skoopa92]

I loved this, more 'guide' like videos would be so amazing! I'd love to have a whole compendium of Adam teaching how he does things and all his tips and tricks within!

[@teddyjones8027]

Fantastic video Thank you for sharing and can't wait to see what's next. Everyone keep yourselves and love ones safe and healthy and remember to SMILE 😊God Bless 🙏

[@ducomaritiem7160]

I made blisters for a small product with A4 clear PVC sheets... works, it was the stuff I had laying around... you really need to ventilate well there.

[@GreenAppelPie]

Dude! We would all love to learn anything you’re willing to share. No one is the end-all be-all experts on a subject s, there always something else to learn.

[@waterbitten]

You'd be surprised how few people think this way. Some people have a very fixed mindset.

[@mikestubbs5242]

'Pounce bag' is used also in both handwriting in ink and also musical instrument finishing.

[@Zuraneve]

They're also used in sewing.

[@patrikcath1025]

I've never even been interested in vacuum forming an I find this super interesting, it looks so much simpler than I expected. I understand using thinner sheets makes it a lot easier to get good looking fine details, but what's the downside? If I had to guess, it makes the plastic tear more easily if you pull it down too hard over a sharp shape?

[@thompuckett9547]

Fantastic video. I love learning and adding information to my potential builds.

[@scuba7695]

In high school the plastic shop I worked in we used two pizza ovens and machined presses. We did also use foot pedals for the vacuum, I remember when we went to the foot pedals it was so much easier heh.

[@TheStrykerProject]

An excellent 'show & tell' about vaccu-forming...or, to borrow a phrase from Star Talk, an excellent 'Explainer'. 👍🏻

[@AdamNDJ]

For working with the black plastic, check out Welding Silver Pencils. They are a silver leaded pencil, great for laying lines on dark surfaces.

[@WaterAssassini]

Love the videos! Can’t wait to get to meet you at the Dallas ComicCon in two and a half weeks!

[@Warshipmodelsunderway]

Interstate Plastics up in Sacramento sells .040 white styrene - I just bought a couple of 4 X 8' sheets last week for my vacuum form, and they were about 20 bucks a sheet. Cut them up myself, but they offer cutting and shipping services.

[@Aminuts2009]

50 years ago 16 year old me made a vac form with a box and some peg board. Used the oven. But I never could figure out how to get rid of the gussets. Didn't even know that had a name.

[@stevenclaflin]

My heart jumped when you almost dropped the blaster😮

[@waterbitten]

"God of acedem", I learn so much new english from this channel..

[@OfficialOpinion]

I know those parts! That's vintage 80s Kenner B-Wing cockpit shell and AT-ST bottom body/neck shell!

[@PasttheInstructions]

You know how FUN it would be to have Adam as a shop class teacher in High School!... I wouldn't ever wanna leave that class haha. Feel like every student would graduate as masters of that art after only taking his class for a year

[@TarisRedwing]

you had my heart skip a beat seeing the blaster fall then you caught it 😤

[@Iskelderon]

Awesome! I'm always tempted to get one for stuff like aircraft canopies.

[@GusOfTheDorks]

Oh hey! I was wishing for this during the Homeworld build and here it is! This is awesome!

[@UCkI6pPBQ1IaNlicrwsnR5_w]

Adam you are always more of an expert than you think you are, but the real gold is in your enthusiasm and the way you know how to balance output quality vs production efficiency. So many "how to" resources focus entirely on the quality of the result, but for most makers the law of diminishing returns cuts in quite early. We mostly need to achieve a result that's 'good enough' to move on to the next step with the minimum investment of time and money. Your experience has allowed you to refine this like nobody else, so quit apologising and keep sharing with us 😁

[@brianonley]

For a number of years I worked with a fluid cell press in making aircraft skins and parts. Though that is obviously a little more complicated than vacuum forming, the concept and process is identical.. Good job here and good tips as well. :)

[@woollysoxx]

You were definately in the zone there!! nice video

[@karim6651]

please please make more videos like this!

[@matthewring8301]

If you’re not concerned about cutting off flashing, could you use a spacer to extend the part in order to prevent the wrinkles in the plastic?

[@rocktoonzz]

Have you ever tried laying a sheet of felt over something before forming to create a lined blister pack for longer-term use and storage?

[@AnAdventuringNerd]

Wouldn't a plug in optional foot switch for the vacuum work better to free up the hands? Great work and I always learn a lot.

[@macmaccourt]

I want to create 1/10 scale car models and this looks like the way to go. R/C car bodies are vaccuformed are are 'ok' but not super-detailed. I want detail and panel gaps for hood and fenders. I was wondering if I broke the forms down to components; e.g. fenders, hood section, main body area, and fixed them to a frame, I could get more details. Or maybe I should just try whole body first? Love your channel! Always so entertaining and inspiring! Thanks, Adam!

[@metern]

How tall can an item be when vacuumforming? Is it as tall as the sheets are wide?

[@GManShorty78]

I have a question; If you were in the middle of doing a pull, and noticed certain areas were not providing enough detail, could you apply a heat gut to the plastic to spot heat those parts to allow the plastic to flow tighter to the form?

[@M-demo]

Thank you for sharing. It was an excellent lesson on vacuum forming. Can the gusset be utilized as a fortuitous occurrence in model making?

[@5UBL4H]

In addition to the normal on/off switch it has a foot switch for the vacuum seems like a decent idea for that process, or perhaps switch that's triggered by the frame when it's placed in it's ready to vacuum position.

[@vomitkermit3446]

One of my goals in life is to have a shop like Adam’s

[@cpace123]

Past views days I have been making my diy vacuum table - perfect timing on watching something on the same subject.

[@fxm5715]

Depending on what the buck is made out of, pre-heating it with a heat gun or a hair dryer can significantly increase detail since it doesn't cool the plastic on contact so quickly.

[@KarlRoyale]

I added a magnet to my plastic frame and a reed switch to the vac-u-form machine so as soon as the frame is pulled down the heat turns off and the vacuum turns on as soon as the magnet is in place.

[@xenogryph7169]

Brings back memories of Vac-Man, Creepy-Crawlies and the Easy-Bake-Oven (For kids) Along with erector set and chemistry sets and that thing from Radio Shack when you connect wires it does things.

[@creativityinc.108]

Would having a positive and negative mold help in the impression process?