Adam Savage's One Day Builds: Magnetic Lathe Chuck!

[@blindside731]

27:09 audio drop it’s kinda amazing though. The expressions of excitement with zero audio context is a unique experience. audio resumes 28:44

[@aaro_n]

Thought my headphones broke. Lol

[@TheAndersJames]

Thanks, legit thought my sound driver broke after my recent updates. 😅

[@Beamer1969]

Amazing that they think it was acceptable lost a lot of respect from me

[@the_str4ng3r]

@@Beamer1969 Simple mistakes happen, this ain't Hollywood. Clearly the impact/requirement of your respect does not match its worthiness.

[@frankboyd7993]

Good to know I wasn't the only one that lost audio but enjoyed watching Adam's expressions

[@AdrianMunoz-xz3dy]

Hey Adam, I want to say thank you. I have severe PTSD and some days it's a struggle to just make it thru the day. But I've been watching you for years, and now when I'm having a bad day where I feel like I can't deal anymore, I watch you on Tested and between your tasks and laughing and joking my day gets better. I am an A&P mechanic so we have alot in common when it comes to being meticulous. You don't know this, but you saved my life several times. I really appreciate you.

[@TheMoffBoy]

Stay strong, just remember with over 7 billion folk on this rock, there is a heavy proportion who are along with you for the ride. There is always light at then end o0f the tunnel, no matter how dark it seems.

[@derekspires4779]

@Adrain how ya holding up. These days. I don't know you but I hope you are doing better sir.

[@AdrianMunoz-xz3dy]

@derekspires4779 Hey bud. Thanks for reaching out. I'm doing alright. I'm still struggling daily, but every day is a new day.

[@u4ia_fubar_75]

Stay strong big man🤟

[@CHUCK25891]

😮

[@michaelhart7841]

You should try one of those transparent magnetic sheets to show the difference in when unlocked and locked ..... might be cool to see the strength in it

[@Kackspack0815]

What about those magnetic sheets? For what are they used?

[@entorix4763]

@@Kackspack0815 kzbin.info/www/bejne/qZ25fWikl7mLmpY

[@Kackspack0815]

@@entorix4763 Thx.

[@3000gtwelder]

Cool idea!

[@2H80vids]

@@entorix4763 Interesting link, thank you.😁👍

[@jimbob3227]

As a quick tip. When you mount your magnetic chuck, turn it on and draw several concentric circles with a sharpie. (Just prop your hand on your tool post and touch the chuck in a few places with your marker) This with help you get your parts "eyeballed" surprisingly close from the get go.

[@GDKCustoms]

Quick and easy trick, rig yourself a tool rest (similar to what you'd see on a wood lathe) and just use a long chisel or piece of smooth flat stock) to get from over your rest to under the piece and pry upwards till it "bounces" off of the chisel at the bottom, apply gradual upward pressure to the piece being centered, it'll eventually nudge itself dead centre! :)

[@fsherman898]

@@GDKCustomsI basically do this, only with a 6200 bearing in my tool holder

[@lepompier132]

Adam, the 0,001" will reflect on the part you will have on the surface of that chuck. To correct this, use a surface grinder and bring back on all the surface 0,0000. That way you will have a much better experience using it and your parts would be parallel. Keep this in mind, we do surface grind the mag chuck of a surface grinder for precision, a mag chuck for a lathe should get the same attention for precision. Enjoy your new chuck. (Note: I would suggest to do the same for the back plate of the chuck, that way you make sure everything is parallel from the head stock to the front of the chuck.)

[@wags9777]

He said all he was using was a 3 jaw chuck for the longest time. He is not worried about a tenth.

[@Turbo442]

Why not just face the mag chuck in the lathe?

[@MyfriendthinkheOJ]

0,0000 you realize that’s almost impossible? 0,001 is 1 micron

[@MyfriendthinkheOJ]

@@wags9777of a mm…

[@blitzkrueg07]

Just seeing this now a year later. As a toolmaker if I needed it better than .001 I would put tool post grinder in. Make sure you grind it with the magnet activated though.

[@Daednumai]

6:44 Tip to stop allen bolts binding on the key, once you've got the bolt moving, give it a hit backwards while the bolt is still semi tight, frees the key and saves having it stuck at the end :)

[@dfailsthemost]

I was also going to suggest getting all of them just slightly broken free before removing any of them. Sometimes, I've had to tighten one back down just a bit to get the last one broken free. Especially if it wasn't tightened down properly. Like around 12:08

[@edbennett8257]

Now make a wood or plastic cover for it when it is on the storage rack so that it doesn't get covered in steel shavings while not in use. Getting them off once it is covered is a royal PIA, and a cover will prevent much of it.

[@xzeke666x]

i agree, u will swear like hell trying to get rid of the shavings. but seanse he has a 3d printer now he should be able to make one there for it.

[@stvian]

Just get a $1 shower cap. Lol, it would work.

[@TheNadOby]

Or vacuform one around if one wanna be fancy.

[@hullinstruments]

I’ve learned that another thing which helps get the stuff off once it’s stuck to a magnet is decently strong packing tape. If you ever have the unpleasant experience of a expensive neodymium high-grade magnet contaminated with tiny steel particles and shavings… Packing tape is a savior

[@bigjim8088]

@@hullinstruments yeah strongly agree! And accidentally getting grinding dust on one is the worst!

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Magnetic chucks for lathes are massively underrated :D Most people are rather scared by them, but the failure mode on them is usualy not very spectacular, most of the time the work gets only shiftet and starts to run offcenter. Thats a good moment to turn the lathe off. Throwing parts across the shop is rare. I would not want to be without a magnetic chuck, especially for high precision work on flat-ish disc shaped parts.

[@SeanHodgins]

When I'm not in my shop cleaning and repairing old machining tools, I'm watching Adam do it.

[@Mrdesperado.]

What sort of machining tools do you repair?

[@samroesch]

I’m actually doing both currently :-)

[@jonbrooks8232]

I just cleaned out two, six jaw lathe chucks and I couldn’t have found this video at a better time. Love your videos

[@aserta]

I know a guy who didn't fully engage one of these and the part started turning, held at speed, aaand proceeded to play Frisbee disembowel with his shop, narrowly missing his face. They are good, they do work, but you have to respect and fully engage them.

[@fabtown1457]

I really wish I could express how similar our frantic excitement about this sort of thing is. I often run around like a lunatic looking for Allen keys and assorted tools. Thank you so much for what you do Adam. You have absolutely had a hand in opening an entire generation to building and being creative.

[@XVDAW]

Audio cuts off from 27:07 to 28:42

[@tested]

Apologies for the audio drop at 27:07. Here's a reupload with that part fixed: kzbin.info/www/bejne/goOmhKZmrJl4adk Thanks for understanding and watching!

[@craigweems]

I’ve seen a machinist use a piece of sand paper between the part and the chuck supposedly to increase the grip. You are the most competent person I know who can quickly confirm or deny this approach.

[@machineshopatthebottomofth3213]

The general rule for mag chucks is that you want your part to over at least 2 of the poles. This completes the magnetic circuit and gives you the best chance of not getting the part embedded in your head. That initial little steel puck looked like it did not do this

[@BigDFishin]

Is a magnetic circuit a thing? I feel like the part being small as something to do with it but because of surface area

[@flojotube]

@@BigDFishin is it a THING??? Yeah man, it’s “a thing”… 🤦‍♂️ did you think magnetism was just a scientifically inexplicable magic? here’s the Wikipedia definition for you: A magnetic circuit is made up of one or more closed loop paths containing a magnetic flux. The flux is usually generated by permanent magnets or electromagnets and confined to the path by magnetic cores consisting of ferromagnetic materials like iron, although there may be air gaps or other materials in the path.

[@David-co5oo]

@@flojotube Fucking magnets, how do they work?

[@repairitdontreplaceit]

" gives you the best chance of not getting the part embedded in your head" i am on the floor crying :)

[@ipissed]

@@flojotube Yea, tell us scientifically and explicably how magnetism works. Remember no magic.

[@eatonasher3398]

Once the chuck is mounted to the base plate, the 0.001" can be addressed by dressing the top of the chuck while it's on the lathe! It'd requre a toolpost grinder, but that's how I'd do it (same principle as a surface grinder)

[@snafu2350]

Given that the chuck may be removed/replaced frequently as its use is relatively specialised, I doubt if a thou is a critical measurement across the whole face (notwithstanding shop temp changes leading to local distortion etc)

[@Gottenhimfella]

@@snafu2350 For most operations where a mag chuck is useful, a thou is a lot. Provided it's marked so that the chuck is always mounted with the same camlock studs in the same holes, Eaton's recommendation should get the error down to a few microns. Even facing it with a single point cutting tool would get it good enough. However most lathes face slightly hollow, so it would pay to check this if that would present problems.

[@snafu2350]

@@Gottenhimfella My point was that the thou difference is across the whole diameter of that chuck (from a rough guess WRT scale, prolly 10-12" dia?). The workpieces he's likely to be ..umm.. working on will almost certainly not cover that entire face, so as he concludes, a thou is prolly good enough for his use. That being said, both Eaton & you raise good points, esp if smaller diameter chucks are utilised

[@Gottenhimfella]

@@snafu2350 Actually, your point is well taken as well, and well argued. As you point out, Adam clearly doesn't anticipate use cases where it would present him with a problem, and it seems to me that your posts are more in tune with his needs, whereas I've inserted myself like a typical machinist who can't see past his own situation. Thanks for the civilised and thoughtful discourse, it's not that easy to come by in these days on this medium!

[@snafu2350]

@@Gottenhimfella No problem! :)

[@jeffldavis1969]

Hi there Adam, Long time Watcher of Myth Busters here. Just something I wanted to share with you that I learned from another KZbinr (ABOM79) is that the 0.001 runout could be in the backing plate itself. Try taking the Mag chuck off of the backing plate, Mount the backing plate into the lathe and check it for runout. If it still has runout on the backing plate machine it so that it matches your lathe, then make an index mark for future alignment. Put Mag chuck back together. Then check the face of the Mag chuck for runout again. Thank you for all of your time during Myth buster and even doing these videos from your "MANCAVE'.

[@Zappygunshot]

I like how you've drilled your hole in the old wrench handle straight through the word "professional". A real statement.

[@richharr]

Just face the mag chuck on the lathe, first number the studs on back and always match them to the numbers on your spindle. If your 6 holes arent numbered on the spindle, punch them in on the outside so you can see them when a chuck us on. If it were me, I would fid out where the error is, backplate or mag chuck, then surface grind the offender, then mount it up and in the lathe and use an od grinder (a soft radius hss tool would work too). Also a sealed bearing bolted to the end of a piece of sqaure stock can be put in the tool holder and used to center a round piece

[@matthewheaton4421]

I was thinking the same thing. I thought that was standard for attaching a mag chuck to anything is to dress it.

[@williammoriarity7411]

Depending on how accurate his lathe is, the chuck could go slightly conical. Maybe it's time for him to invest in a surface grinder 😁

[@MultiMwe]

I think Adam needs to mount the backplate and take a skim cut to true it up. Since it was not from his lathe originally.

[@gtjack9]

Just throw the mag chuck in another mag chuck and parallel that fucker up

[@knowlzy0791]

I have found nothing better to "unstuck" things than a 1:1 ratio of Automatic Transmission Fluid and Acetone. Always love your videos.

[@Dreadnought242]

Adam banging on the stuck screw with every kind of hammer in his shop is the kind of Wyle E. Coyote, Super-Genius, energy I needed today.

[@williammoriarity7411]

Not every hammer. Each one he grabbed was softer than the chuck, and that's for a good reason.

[@25Nightops]

All while is impact driver sits and watches on like, "Am I a joke to you?"

[@Carl2k7]

He removed the other screws first causing leverage on that bolt, loosen then nip all bolts first to ensure you can get them all free first.

[@DrSuperKamiGuru]

9:20 My eyes went wide at learning that technique for removing screws. This is going to change my life.

[@jaydenludewig7401]

Same, never seen anyone use vice grips to get torque on a screwdriver before but will definitely be using this technique in the future

[@BeardedWorks]

Adam, I have been watching for awhile, years actually, and every now and then i pick up a small trick that i will squirrel away in the back of my head for the rare occasion when it needs to come out. On that note, Thank you for posting the trick with the visegrips and the screwdriver. These small things are part of the reason i enjoy watching your videos. That and also your excitement for your craft. Thanks again.

[@bitking69]

Note the square shank of the screwdriver, intended to allow a wrench to be fitted to apply additional torque.

[@tomperkins6389]

When I was 18 I had a summer job in a local machine shop that made expanding collets for internal chucking and vacuum chucks for non ferrous metals that could be used on mills and grinding ops. The owner had patents on both. I learned so much in that summer.

[@Finnegan6674]

Have you ever used a pencil to center a piece? Where you hold the pencil to the piece to draw a circle on the top surface as the piece is turning. That will show you the direction you are off and how much. It works great.

[@GDKCustoms]

Quick and easy trick, rig yourself a tool rest (similar to what you'd see on a wood lathe) and just use a long chisel or piece of smooth flat stock) to get under the piece and pry upwards till it "bounces" off of the chisel at the bottom, apply gradual upward pressure to the piece being centered, it'll eventually nudge itself dead centre! :)

[@Finnegan6674]

@@GDKCustoms the pencil trick works great on rotary tables. You can get it dead nuts without an indicator.

[@robertbruce700]

I've become addicted to this channel. Learning so many lil techniques and ideas that I'll use for something unrelated.

[@themonkeymoo]

You might want to make a centering tool that you can mount on the toolpost. It's just a bearing attached to something you can put in the toolpost. Bump that against the perimeter of the part at low RPM (or even hand-turning the spindle with the magnets off for light parts) and use it to push the part toward the center.

[@dikkybee]

Just put the part on and clock it up as you would with a 4 jaw. Never seen a mag Chuck on a lathe. Have used cylindrical grinders with them on but never a lathe. I would never use a lathe with a mag Chuck as it is not safe. Anything that can be knocked concentric with a hammer doesn't have enough clamping force to hold a job when turning.

[@RambozoClown]

I figured this would be here. It's the hot tip to get real close before indicating in.

[@RambozoClown]

@@dikkybee It's done all the time. Light cuts and sane rpms, no problem. Same with super glue technique, and a pitch chuck. Great ways to hold the un-holdable.

[@dikkybee]

@@RambozoClown Have used double side tape/ sheet to machine thin Teflon but if I need to compromise my speeds and feeds due to inadequate holding then it's unsafe. In my 40 years have never come across anything that was not capable of being held with any fully stocked lathe.

[@angrydragonslayer]

@@dikkybee have you ever needed to hold a ø600 tube with 1.2-.4 walls where you can only hold the outermost 5 mm on either side? We admittedly made two custom chucks for this job rather than mag chucks but there's no way we could have held that part normally

[@rich7934]

Suggestion, mount a bearing in the end of a piece of keystock, just like a roller of a steady rest finger. Mount it in a tool holder. Use axially to level a thin disk in the chuck jaws. Use it radially to center a disk on the mag chuck. In either case slowly advance it against the part as you rotate the chuck as slow as possible until its in position, then tighten the chuck.

[@guytech7310]

Mag chuck is really only useful for machining the surface of a part on a lathe. getting it dialed in to turn true will always be a PIA, and its also likely to shift when machining. If you just cutting the flat surface of a part its not important if the part is running true.

[@Gottenhimfella]

@@guytech7310 Also very useful for cylindrical grinding (ID or OD) using a toolpost grinder, seeing how the spindle speed is slow and cutting forces very moderate

[@guytech7310]

@@Gottenhimfella Sorry, but I would never use do any grinding on a lathe. The quickest way to mess up a lathe, is to grind on it. The abrasives get into the ways and bearings causing problems.

[@Gottenhimfella]

@@guytech7310 Easy enough to mostly avoid grit migrating where it shouldn't, but when I was young (and knew i lacked the patience to take all the necessary measures) I didn't grind on or near my lathe. Now I have enough lathes, and little need for them to last more than a few more decades, that I can afford to allow myself that luxury, at least on some of them. In fact, most of them. (Especially jobs which have to be done on the same machine, like grinding worn chuck jaws). Hard turning and boring are also prone to produce destructive chips which are sometimes very tiny, but once again, suitable measures (and decent way wipers, etc) prevent issues. Finally, I respectfully submit that there are much quicker ways to "mess up a lathe" than unprotected grinding.

[@guytech7310]

@@Gottenhimfella Abrasives are very hard and can be microscopic. They can find their way in to the tiniest gaps and they continue to cause damage with each rotation. The normal procedure is to keep a separate grinding room with a negative air pressure so grinding dust never makes into the machines.

[@liquidsonly]

If only there were some way to "stick" that chuck down to something so you could get good torque on those recalcitrant bolts!

[@UpperDarbyDetailing]

Stuck bolts get the sparkle wrench. Can't be tight if it's a liquid.

[@thesonicalchemist8600]

Like a magnet?

[@OACustom]

its like youtube was made for his personality. this is the perfect format as an outlet for his creativity.

[@markpitt5248]

I used to use these chucks with a motor on so it could spin on a surface grinder bed. It was for making precision gears and gauges so you would put a blank on the chuck and grind it parallel on both sides (we called this "topping and tailing") and to a certain thickness.

[@shanek6582]

Sounds like a kind of homemade reverse blanchard grinder. Great idea man!

[@markpitt5248]

@@shanek6582 its an old idea, similar to lumsden grinding. It means you keep the flexibility of having a reciprocal surface grinder

[@LWalsh0]

I’m jealous of his mind and his passion, and his garage, and his tools; and his worksmanship, and his awesome attitude. I hope to be this handy one day. I started late in life. I’m in my 30’s and now figuring out mechanics and how things work. But I love it. Thanks to these videos I see how to think about things and how things should be thought about.

[@atcmadness4351]

My life wouldn't be the same without my Bridgeport Mill and Southbend Heavy 10 lathe. I didn't start until I was about 30 either, but I then began saving every piece of steel, cast iron, plastic, tubing, copper, brass, nylon, Delrin and so on, if I saw it in a dumpster/trash can/side of road, I grabbed it. There's lots of good used equipment out there, but having the materials is often the hardest part. I can't stand having to order things or run out to get them, I have my own hardware store here; but, it wasn't easy to get here...

[@joesphmoger3683]

I like that you teach people that a lot of machining is making tools and fictures to do what you need

[@troykinnison4575]

So is ALOT of woodworking

[@makefitdepartment8621]

Adam, an old master machinist taught me that if you can find a way to strike a stuck bolt on the head a few times it may get it loose. in the case of an Allen head bolt, you would cut the end off of an Allen wrench and use it as a punch. Wrap it with tape so shards wont fly if it breaks. Also, Rust remover is corrosive and will etch metal that is not completely submerged so if you soaked the chuck in Evaporust you will need to get it all out of the chuck innards. Great video, now I have to find a magnetic chuck.

[@jongrimm7767]

Evaporust is a different animal from corrosive rust removers. Read up on it, you'll be surprised.

[@ruftime]

Thanks Adam…….but I’m really disappointed we never got an internal “magnet shot”……..and clean out that swarf! ………..you know it’s Still in there😢

[@mitchcumstein9808]

This guy is horrible probably the worst channel in this community. I now know the mustache guy in myth busters was the real talent. There are literally 100’s of better channels than this. Why is he constantly in my suggested as opposed to Abom or Mr Pete ? I’m even subscribed to these others and this guys channel is always coming up. He’s probably ass kisser to susan

[@2H80vids]

@@mitchcumstein9808 So why watch and leave a comment? Seems kinda pointless. We're all perfectly entitled not to like someone, or their work, but what's the sense in watching a channel that has that effect on you? There are channels/creators that I'm not keen on; my simple solution is not to watch them. Nice of you to support his channel though, especially as he offends you so deeply.

[@coffeepot3123]

@@mitchcumstein9808 Who emptied their nose in your cereal?, Jesus go for a walk outside young man.

[@mitchcumstein9808]

@@coffeepot3123 no I’m sorry but I keep getting his videos shoved down my throat and every time it’s BS, this guy makes nothing. It’s like that DUNE thingy someone else drew it up and printed it this guy did the easy part same thing I could do. It’s been two years of me seeing this below average “click bait” garbage. I just have had enough I wish we could block creators from showing up in recommended. You just were on other end of 2-3 years of frustration. Because this guy was on a show and is recognized he gets promoted and others with way more talent don’t

[@mitchcumstein9808]

@@2H80vids fatally agree. And I don’t watch Many of this guys videos. But they are always constantly being pushed on me. So one time I see him say “build” something I have been thinking about, I say ok let’s see and again this guy duped me. I can go buy a dirty magnetic chuck and clean it. You just got me after a few years of this channel being pushed on me when it shouldn’t be. If I never watch someone eventually it shouldnt show up in my suggested but this untalented mess always gets special treatment. KZbin treats him like a special needs person…..maybe he is

[@ParadigmUnkn0wn]

I didn't even know magnetic lathe chucks were a thing. I have only seen mag chucks on surface grinders before. Thank you, Adam, for teaching me new things since I was a kid and you were hosting Mythbusters with the Angry Walrus, and continuing to share your knowledge and passion for cool stuff now. My interest in science and engineering got started thanks to several Discovery and Science channel shows, and that has shaped my whole life and career.

[@nicholaslarson3826]

You might try orienting the chuck in all the different ways that it can be attached to the spindle and indicating each one. You may find one that is better than the others.

[@cooper10182]

As an employee that works for Hardinge, I'm glad to hear you pronounce it correctly instead of the common harding.

[@donaldwrissler9059]

I believe that brazing the original tool was an appropriate process to make the part from desperate metals. The problem was, not using the right heat alongside correct flux and filler. High heat from oxy/acetylene was really needed to create a strong bond of this kind. Definitely a new investigation into brazing practices would be beneficial for everyone on this channel, as it has become a underused practice. Great content , my knowledge of mag chucks was really minimal.

[@RambozoClown]

Yup, parts need to be dull red for most silver solders. Little butane torch just not going to cut it, especially with a clamp sinking the heat.

[@bennyfactor]

desperate times call for desperate metals? 👼

[@gregmuon]

@@RambozoClown Yeah, or cherry red for brass. What he did was solder. It's weird people don't know how to braze anymore.

[@chrisd-gd6no]

brazing, and oxy-ace use in general (except for cutting of course!) has really dropped off! Too bad; as its one of the most versatile setups you could have. If I only had one option for a shop, above tig, stick, mig, even plasma cutting, I would definitely opt for a good oxy acetylene setup and a selection of tips, extensions, and the like. No electrical requirement, no compressor requirement....its the way to go, and in the right hands...will do almost anything, even aluminum. Its a great fabrication tool, heating, forming, heat-treating or annealing....very, very versatile and under-utilized. Stick with Victor or Harris (at least in N.America) and if you want to get super-fancy, check out the Dillon, or Dillon-Henrob torch head!

[@guytech7310]

@@chrisd-gd6no Oxy-ace is OK, but you spend half of the time cleaning off carbon. Its really hard to beat TIG welding for cleanness. or MIG\Stick welding for fast welds. Silver soldering is good when you don't need a lot of mechanical strength but want to avoid warping, or surface distortion.

[@scottdennis6791]

Hey Adam, just catching this awesome video now. Just my 2 cents from a machinist that fights with tolerancing every day. I skimmed the comments and didn't see this exactly but there a couple things to consider with regards to the flatness. this will never be used for roughing operations and will not secure a saw cut surface constantly. it will be brought out for when you have to do irregular and fussy stuff. If there is a built in error of .001" that can be bad. If you had .001" TIR on the surface plate and the same as mounted I would just surface grind it or put a location mark on it and the spindle nose and take a .002"(ish!) cut to make things true. Thanks for the inspiration, I have one similar in my garage acquired at an auction that always seemed really weak. Time for a rebuild!

[@christopherlenahan3906]

When I'm setting up a machine, we use .0005"/ft or 0.01mm/m of level/square and that is usually maintained from 300mm-6meter machines. But I mean you wanna get the face ground or just run it. You aren't going to be turning large/long parts, but are you looking for this to parallel faces of a part?

[@mikedrake4791]

I love your video's and I worked for 43 years as a tool and die maker. I was 3rd generation at Hardinge Brothers in elmira ny. I'm glad you showed the Hardinge speed collet chuck in the video.

[@rainmannoodles]

22:00 Watch out for those holes when they go by the probe tip... since it was at a 90 degree angle to the movement of the surface, it looks like it could have snapped right off it caught on one. That wouldn't have been fun!

[@robadams6689]

Thank you. Finally someone posts a complete demonstration on these things. Much appreciated! I can now make an educated decision. Also thanks for the tip on where you got it. Will save me 200.00

[@barmanvarn]

Evaporust is amazing stuff. I discovered it maybe 10 years ago? As stated it's reusable (to a point) so when I'm done with it I pour it back into the bottle using a filtered funnel.

[@guytech7310]

Nothing special about Evaporust. All of the rust removal brands are just phosphoric acid.

[@Halinspark]

When you're dialing in a part, you can put an indicator on it and spin the chuck by hand. Saves a lot of guesswork and watching it wobble under power.

[@steveamsp]

There's definitely something very meta about using a lathe to make a new tool to help you adjust a chuck to be used on the lathe in question.

[@tophernoswal]

We use CLR by the drum in the shop to remove rust and verdigris off of valves, bolts, and studs. Works wonders.

[@GaryGraham66]

I started watching this video while designing and building a bench press drill that could be rotated through 90 degrees to use as a rudimentary lathe, on hunting to parts I found an old drill chuck, some polishing and grinding stones, and a 4" circular saw blade. I am now designing a bench drill, lathe, table saw, and grinding station combo! I guess I'll be busy with the 3D printers and laser cutter for a while.

[@wtechboy18]

oh also - watching someone else use a magnetic chuck a while ago, I learned a trick! If you use some bent piece of spring steel, such that they have a flat that sits against the chuck and an upturned bit that raises away from the chuck, you can set those tightly against your workpiece, with the lifted end of the spring steel touching the workpiece, and when you turn on the mag chuck, it'll try to pull the whole spring steel bit into the chuck. That'll try to force the upturned end "into" the workpiece as it tries to trace out a shallow arc with a pivot point at wherever the kink in the spring steel is.

[@codprawn]

I have mag chucks for my surface grinders. I have used them on my milling machines. But on a lathe? At high rpm? No chance. If you need to hold small parts on a lathe use a wax chuck or superglue/shellac.

[@thehouseofcha1nsaw_]

A mag chuck is absolutely not ment to turn a lot of rpm, its just another tool to have in your arsenal. I've got a 14" and I dont really get it out much but here is and example: Had a large stubby axel had to turn down to fit in a new bushing. It maybe 2' long and shaped like a "T". The face was 15" and im doing this on a 1630 lathe. Being able to just slam it on the machine, set it at 250rpm and start work makes a nice thing to have around.

[@nixcraft2125]

Mr Savage; "Impact Screwdriver" .. Search for it. Essentially a big steel handle that you can change the tips on, and it's got a long cam inside the handle.. So you place it on the screw and hold firm. Use a hammer to smack the back end and the downward stroke of the handle after impact cam-rotates the screwdriver head.. So it's applying impact and a *_very forceful_* rotation at the same time.

[@nixcraft2125]

Oh, and as far as the backplate, I'd like to see it about half a thou, but for the work you do I'd think you're probably going to be alright

[@evanlane1690]

On the clapboard, I saw O.D.B. and was wondering what the heck Ol' Dirty Bastard had to do with precision machining. Love your one day builds Adam!

[@victoryfirst2878]

This reminds me of working in the machine shop cleaning chucks that go on the lathe. Nice work Adam.

[@keithbrown2458]

I knew magnetic chucks existed I just had never seen one thanks for sharing this one it was fascinating

[@elluisito000]

Hi! The great german machinist Stefan did a very similar project some years back. These magnetic things are very useful 😀

[@Kashi754]

A good trick for trying to get out siezed screws is to give them a little tighten first, a lot of time the will come out after that.

[@guytech7310]

@@vdubs4life1964 Risk having the fastener snap inside & having to drill it out. The best way is use the method Kashi recommends. Rock it back and forth, Apply a pentrating oil and some heat if needed to get a stuck fastener out. Smacking it is the worst way to get a fastener out.

[@guytech7310]

@@vdubs4life1964 Sorry I don't trust you. My experience has been snapped bolts in automotive & other machinary caused by a use of a hammer. A hammer is for nails, not bolts or screws.

[@nottelling6598]

That reflexive rag-stop technique is the kind of wisdom that only comes from many injured toes from round objects rolling off of work-surfaces.

[@jbh.6257]

I would love to learn more about the inner workings of this chuck and why it didn't work originally.

[@cortedemico]

ME TOO!

[@LordPhobos6502]

My favourite tool, possibly of all time, is degreaser. Purple, weird smell, not particularly kind to skin (but won't seriously harm), and CLEANS ANYTHING. Makes light work of almost any job 👍💜

[@martinwhelan2445]

You might want to try an impact screwdriver for the stuck socket head cap screws. Works pretty good for me.

[@andrewfidel2220]

I was thinking Alan socket, first with a wrench and if that didn't work an impact gun set to low and moving up to higher levels of power =)

[@martinwhelan2445]

@@andrewfidel2220 sorry mate. I don't mean an impact gun. I mean an impact screwdriver. It is a realy fat screwdriver with a cam in it that when you hit on the back with a hammer it tries to twist whatever bit you have in it. All they are for is cracking loose fasteners that are stuck.

[@allenroberttucker]

Something that’s nice when you’re making tools or clearing rust off of things. When you’re done clean with acetone and blue with gun blue. Really easy and prevents rust.

[@awmperry]

“This is gonna need some tender loving care.” Yup. That whole disassembly process is all tenderness and delicacy. ;-)

[@willwade1101]

Adam, You should invest in a mechanical impact driver. You put a socket on the end and hit it with a hammer and it puts both downward pressure as well as rotational pressure on the bolt/screw you are trying to remove. You can get them at any tool store.

[@bordy____3013]

It’s likely already been done, but having a workbench with the magnetic “on/off” action like the chuck could be very useful

[@goldenhazeduster]

I do this. I have a CNC plasma and I use it to hold small parts that I cut so that I can clean off the dross. It is just a mag chuck off of an old surface grinder. I bought it at an auction for around $125.

[@goldenhazeduster]

I have also seen people do this with the Chinese lifting magnets.

[@corndog6700]

I know a couple guys with mag rectangular chucks mounted on benches. If I need one, I take the Brown & Sharpe off my grinder.

[@armenbagdasarian6144]

my logan is a source of pleasure now that I am retired, watching adam I can relate, keep it up

[@lain2779]

Is there a reason magnetic holders like this wouldnt have a drawn pattern on them? especially a circle pattern, centered on the center for easy positioning of things? Maybe even with lines running out from the middle in a set degree too?

[@WilliamPitcher]

Could even do this by hand for each item to be worked on. Measure the diameter from the centre, turn the lathe on and draw a circle at that diameter. That's said, what do I know? (He says in a genuinely self-deprecating manner.)

[@guytech7310]

Not worth the effort. You never get it turn true. A Mag lathe chuck is only useful for machine on the flat surface. If you want a part to run true, you use a collet or jaw chuck.

[@willwade1101]

I was a machinist in the Navy and I worked with magnetic chucks a lot.

[@henryknepp]

Disappointed, we didn't see the entire tear down. That's one of the most Intresting parts. I always am fascinated seeing the internal workings of these tools.

[@WH32R]

Your comment about using all the allen sizes rings pretty true with most of the old garden equipment I work on. Seems either the manufacturers didn't pick a single size bolt for the gear cases, or someone who went into it before me threw whatever they had in for replacements.

[@KvenKing]

Love the use of all the thwackers.

[@Flemfka5]

My dads old tip for removing recalcitrant bolts was applying constant torque to the bolt while simultaneousley hammering on the end of it (either through the end of the hex key or directley if its a standard hex bolt). Never failed me

[@jamesm3268]

Rolling your metal chuck and sliding it around on your granite surface plate is full nightmare mode for me.

[@arkaywat11]

When setting your workpiece to run concentrically, use slow revs and a DTI, you can time your knocks against the indicator and get the piece running surprisingly concentrically.

[@DarthCobay]

No sound around the 27:00 mark until about 28:44

[@tested]

Apologies for the audio drop at 27:07. Here's a reupload with that part fixed: kzbin.info/www/bejne/goOmhKZmrJl4adk Thanks for understanding and watching!

[@AdamNDJ]

I didn't even know they had mag chucks for lathes. Now I know what I need. As an aside, I made a centering tool for my lathe. It is piece of 1/2" square mild. I milled out a slot in the end for a 607 bearing. Drilled and tapped it so just a little of the bearing stuck out. Then locked it into a tool holder. I use it when I need to center up something. Slowely push the bearing against the stock and it does all the work.

[@mop0014]

Holy crap... How have I never thought to use locking pliers on a screwdriver before?

[@redknights2007]

Was thinking the exact same thing.

[@chrisdinger5100]

You can also use a wrench

[@aserta]

Not a smart idea, because you can damage the coating for no reason. Just get a square wrench or a hex wrench (depending on what shank your driver has) and use that as intended. Makes no appreciable difference where the force is, when you remove the screw. That said, you're better off using a good old fashioned impact driver when you first start the screw. Ya know, the one you smack with a hammer.

[@dorsk84]

I just use a hammer and while keeping torque on the driver. Kinda like an impact driver. Only use it for big screws that are giving me issues.

[@RevUnstableBoy]

I have several screwdrivers that have a hex on the shaft by the handle specifically to put a wrench on it to help with turning. my scrap-on screwdrivers specifically. (but a few other brands)

[@TychoBrahe21]

I have wondered for years how a magnetic chuck worked. Thanks so much for your explanation, mystery solved!

[@Nonexister1]

I love the implied safety briefing of watches, rings, and jewelry. Working as a telecommunications cable splice wearing those items can cause massive damage if/when things go south. The exaggerated removal of the watch nearly made me take mine off.

[@stargazer7644]

He took the mechanical watch off so the magnet wouldn’t magnetize it and ruin it.

[@Sembazuru]

To help attaching your chucks that don't use all 6 pins, put a dot of paint on the backing plate where the pins are. Then when tightening the chuck lock you can easily see which pins to skip.

[@XxShantilisxX]

I was wondering if the .001 accuracy was the same after activation, or does activating line up the magnets and pull the parts together better.

[@LordPadriac]

Good luck checking that with any commercially available indicator what with the metal parts and all.

[@BrianSFischer]

If you want to heat a set screw, tap a disposable alan key into the set screw and apply heat to the key. This will give you the greatest heat differential between the setscrew and the metal block it is screwed into.

[@buckybucky8596]

Especially when working on a magnetic - anything - intense heat is the enemy of magnets.

[@BrianSFischer]

@@buckybucky8596 Good point!

[@gregoryreschke914]

If the roll pin fails, use another and insert a smaller roll pin inside. Will be much stronger. And thanks for using tools in not quite the correct way!

[@annaruyer4681]

Adam when I see you doing things your always be happy, I think its a good thing to be when your doing things. way to go Adam.

[@quantumfluxuation]

You should look into "mouse milk" for penetration oil. I use it for aircraft maintenance along with kroil. I've had things sitting in kroil with heat for about an hour with no movement and as soon as the mouse milk sat for 5 minutes everything was loose.

[@dennythomas8887]

I just retired after 45 years as an A&P and I have been using mouse milk for the last 20 years. It is truly amazing stuff. It's funny how outside the aviation industry nobody knows about it.

[@josepheirman4987]

for the record mag chucks are considered consumable. as they get used they get reground true to the machine. so don't be afraid to take a light facing cut on it to get it true to your lathe.

[@VAroaddog]

What a crazyworld we live in Adam asking Alexa for measurements and my Alexa answering as his does.

[@TKIDaniel]

Took a piece of d2 and made a tool for my post that holds a 6200 bearing. I use it for centering round parts on my mag chuck. Works like a charm

[@dolphin64575]

Adam: whacking the side of an allen key with a hammer. Me: Adam get an impact driver. Adam: whacks the TOP of an allen key with a hammer. Me: Adam that's not an impact driver.

[@budm9982]

LOL!

[@uberorange2116]

to get rid of the slight runout on the surface, I'd personally mount the chuck in the lathe and mark a reference point on the chuck and the spindle, to ensure it's mounted in the same place every time, then just take skim passes across the face to eliminate the deviation

[@elevown]

While the magnets look strong, will they really hold a heavy object at high rpm?

[@corwinchristensen260]

An experience that I had making a chuck key for a lathe. I made the key shaft short like you did and then I wasn't able to chuck up material that was larger in diameter than the chuck. Lesson learned ... make the shaft for the chuck key at least as long as 1/2 the swing of the lathe minus the radius of the chuck so the handle could swing past my material.

[@SparrowHawk183]

I love watching Adam work on the lathe, but it makes me incredibly nervous at the same time! Especially with a huge magnet chuck. Seems like some terrible stuff could happen if the magnetic lock is somehow deactivated while at high RPM. Are there limits to spindle speed and workpiece size/weight for this type of chuck? But, it does seem like a magnetic chuck has some real advantages for holding irregular objects. I wonder how you precisely center and adjust a workpiece on such a chuck?

[@imtired8004]

I'm sure just due to it having no mechanical securing of the part the max spindle speed is much lower than a typical chuck, especially for off balance work, but I doubt there's any real chance of it being deactivated during use tbh

[@imtired8004]

Centering could be done with an indicator and a hammer, just spin it and tap until there's no runout, but I personally figure that this chuck is mostly useful for facing weirdly shaped parts that are hard to hold in a mill

[@stargazer7644]

And how exactly would the chuck deactivate while spinning? It’s designed not to do that.

[@Metal-Possum]

So cool to see you drinking Bundaberg Ginger Beer all the way over there, it's made by my neighbours and made extremely well.

[@Q.Public]

Any chuck where you can move the piece by hand or by tapping it with a hammer would have limited use. Maybe sanding or light grinding. I can't see safely cutting anything with it.

[@Gottenhimfella]

Magnetic chucks are used constantly in many precision grind shops. It's not just light grinding, because a skilled operator can select cutting conditions and abrasive wheels to as to minimise the push-off forces while achieving high rates of material removal. The workpiece is almost never clamped directly on the mag chuck, instead a grinding fixture or SC chuck (flat back) is, and the work is bumped into truth while easing off on the magnetic force. For really heavy grinding, clamp dogs can then be tightened to stabilise the chuck or fixture, checking all the while that there is no resultant movement.

[@Gottenhimfella]

In Adam's situation, he could mount a high speed spindle or die grinder in the toolpost with a carbide burr in lieu of a stationary cutting tool, to keep the cutting forces very low.

[@jpsimon206]

Hahaha! Find an old bearing and mount it to a piece of half inch by half inch and put that in the tool post. You can bring it up to the circumference and it will automatically center the part. If you use a longer piece of half inch by half inch and add a bearing to the other end as well, you can use the same trick to align the face on a narrow disc of material. Much faster and easier than tapping the block around with the mallet. That said, I really enjoyed watching you try to center it with the mallet while the lathe was running! Have not seen that trick before

[@Mechamaniac]

Only Adam would tear down and clean an ancient, rusty, greasy piece of equipment wearing a white costume shirt. That's live weathering 😀

[@Tezza120]

Depending on the quality of your spindle nose, you could try rotating it around to see if a different position cancels that 1 thou error. Or toolpost grinder and surface it on the lathe and mark it so it always goes on the same way.

[@jacobhoupt]

Clickspring did a lathe chuck alignment video segment. I'd never heard the term "witness mark." I learn so much proper terminology from KZbin for "what I do to stuff with things."

[@ClownWhisper]

Remember one thousands of tilt on a disc like that as you travel away from its zero position it's going to multiply itself exponentially

[@jarjarbingbong]

It's not exponential. It's linear. Given a long piece would result in a large lever arm, it isn't a big deal.

[@adrianjames4447]

Thats definitely gonna come in handy with all the different things you do, a brilliant new add on to your lathe inventory 👍