Testing GE Fan Motors - Forced Run & Tachometer Test

[@tastylicks5273]

0:26 - "Keep in mind the refrigerator is plugged in, so don't touch anything on the board with your bare hands." - Immediately touches board with bare hands. lol! - Actually, thanks for the video, definitely very helpful and much appreciated!

[@GraceAppliance]

Hahaha! Do as I say, not as I do. LoL

[@joserodriguez2632]

This is one of the best channels on KZbin so far .Love the way you are willing to help others with your knowledge . thanks a lot and I'll be following all your videos,thanks again.

[@GraceAppliance]

Awesome! Thanks so much for the kind words and for watching! Stay in touch.

[@apum3000]

Great informative channel! Isn't there an additional motor in the FF section? do you have or could you show testing for it; is there a resistance value like the one for the evaporator section. Thank you

[@gregorylittle6614]

Which component here kick starts the motor? I have found in my GE side by side gsl25 that the evaporator fan is not kicking on, when I give it a slight push by hand while still installed in freezer it runs nice and strong. is this possibly a repair issue or must something be replaced? the issue causing me to look around is that the lower fridge is freezing food while the upper freezer side won't keep food frozen. I replaced the thermostat connected to the evaporator fan and the damper door w/ thermostat. I don't see why I would replace the evap motor when it does run but I dont know where to look to fix the issue. Also, we very much appreciate these videos, I feel the information is thorough and easy to understand. and the extra little tips have answered some lingering questions I have wondered about for some time now... THANK YOU THANK YOU

[@GraceAppliance]

Hey, If you can give the fan a boost and it runs as normal, you will need a new fan motor. They will often get rusty on the shaft/bearings and seize up as you describe. That should solve the issue though.

[@MeganMcConville-d4o]

Andy, what if i try your forced fan run paperclip trick and the evaporator fan does not turn on? I do get 12.8 volts across the yellow/black and white wires when fridge is on (positions 4 and 3). On the J2 unit when fridge is off i dont get resistence between the white and red wires at positions 8 and 3. You indicated this is diagnostic of a fan circuit issue. How can i address this? And thanks for these super helpful videos!

[@richsalgadola]

👍🏻🙌🏻 Thanks Andy! Very thorough and informative videos! Got my fridge running again!

[@maxmax-ui3ks]

Hi ,I liked your video thanks. I have Electrolux fridge with 4 wire evap fan not turning on , but when I take it out and apply external +12v to white wire and -12v to yellow wire the fan turns on. Also , when I enter diag mode and test the evap fan it turns on and off every few seconds until I push off on the UI. Any idea why?

[@pancho2597]

Hello Andy, I have a GE ref S/S 17 years old, and lately I have noted that evap. fan runs only in high speed, cooling is ok, but the I can hear the fan humming in high speed as long as the compressor is running. Should I replace the board ctrl, the evap fan motor or maybe a sensor? Thanks.

[@GraceAppliance]

Pancho hey! I’d first check freezer temp sensor for appropriate resistance. I have a video called diagnosing and replacing a defrost sensor. The test is the same for defrost sensors and temp sensors. If the fridge thinks it’s warmer In the fridge or freezer than it actually is, it may be running the fan full time when it isn’t needed. Also, check to see that there isn’t food blocking any of the vents for proper air flow. Check the coils in the back for dust. That’s the first things that come to mind.

[@pancho2597]

@@GraceAppliance Thanks Andy, I will do that, and I let you know.

[@chrisrobles4115]

Where you get the info to know the fan is on the J2 harness

[@DavidCrossley-w4n]

The tachometer is reading 13.5VDC and when i jumper the evaporator wire i get no fan running. I just replaced this motor. Could it then be bad? I get almost freezing bottom ( any frozen seem to try and stay frozen) and Luke warm fridge

[@jeffp862]

If the fan is out can’t you just put 12 volts to it? Or does it need a tach signal?

[@juliogaspar6529]

very good info, all your videos are very technically sound, thanks for your knowledge sharing .

[@GraceAppliance]

I appreciate that so much Julio! Thank you for the kind words and for watching.

[@MiguelVillarroel02]

Hey Andy, great video thank you. My case is: evaporator fan doesn´t work , putting jumper it starts up, but taking jumper out it keeps working until reaching temperature, Do you know why?, main board voltage is right.

[@GraceAppliance]

Hey Miguel, Interesting! The only guess I would have is that the tachometer is failed/failing on the fan motor. Perhaps once it's spinning at full speed, the board is getting a good reading, but at low speeds (i.e. not full 13vdc) it will not register the fans tachometer Hz frequency response. I would start with a new fan motor and see if this resolves the issue. Let me know if you have any questions or run in to any issues.

[@MiguelVillarroel02]

Thank you Andy, yes I changed it because didn´t work, but now it starts up the way I said, motor stops when fridge get right temperature, but keeps off until putting jumper again

[@GraceAppliance]

@@MiguelVillarroel02 Miguel Villarroel I understand. If your meter has an HZ setting, you could test the tachometer response from the fan to the board... Otherwise, there isn't a way to confirm the correct operation. Leave a fridge or freezer door open for 3 minutes. This should turn both fans on. What voltage are you getting at the white and yellow/black wire then? Also, check the ohm resistance of both temp sensors for fridge and freezer section. I have a video called testing and replacing a defrost sensor.

[@MiguelVillarroel02]

Thank you very much Mr.Andy, yes it´s about 200hz and 13.5v, ohm resistance of sensors is pending to test. Hey Andy, in case of main board fail I´d like to fix it, is it hard to fix Andy? I see It´s a bit hard to find circuit diagram of GE part No: 200D4852G016

[@GraceAppliance]

I don't think there is a circuit diagram for the board itself. The typical parts that you'd replace of you were going to fix the board yourself would be all of the relays, medium sized capacitors and the two large green resistors if they were burned.

[@caesarmazzeo5120]

I have a GE side-by-side refrigerator GSL25JFXBLBD evaporator fan is running in the opposite way running clockwise should be running counterclockwise if the fan motor is bad would this cause a problem

[@tomjones4145]

This is brilliant thank you / someone that knows what they are doing and very informative

[@julianguajardo9038]

Hello Andy, My fridge just turns the ligths from inside on but the fans, the compressor and the from panel won’t start or light up, I did what you explain in this video and it started up again 🙌🏼. BUT I made measurements and it’s receiving 120v but it’s just sending 6V in the 8 pin connector as well in the 5 pin connector instead of the 13.(something) Volts that should. Should I replace the whole board? Do you know what’s the smarter move to do? The fridge is a side by side GE Model -GLM23QETA. Thanks in advance

[@GraceAppliance]

Julián Guajardo hi Julian, great work. I would remove the plugs from the board and take these measurements again directly on the pins from the board with no plugs connected. If you’re still getting the incorrect voltages, I agree it sounds like a failed control board. Often, and especially with failed fan motors, the failed part can rob voltages from the board and give you a false reading. So, it’s helpful to remove the plugs individually to try and isolate the trouble maker circuit. I hope this helps. Andy

[@julianguajardo9038]

GE Side-by-Side ONLY - Refrigerator Repair Videos thank you 🙏🏻

[@robertbecton7025]

If I use the jumper and the evaporator fan turns on, I can assume I have a control board issue and should replace it? Currently, evaporator fans seem not to be coming on. Both freezer and fridge are cold at the bottom and warmer at the top. The fridge is freezing food at the bottom.

[@GraceAppliance]

Hey Robert, if both your freezer & refrigerator temperature sensors are within spec (see video called diagnosing and testing a defrost sensor) I would suspect a failed board. If the fridge thinks the fridge is at the correct temperature, it will not send voltage for the fans to turn on. So, check these first. Also, try leaving a door open for 3 minutes. This should turn both fans on for you. Called Liner Protection mode, fyi. If you are seeing 2 burned green resistors on your board (they are larger and side by side on the board) this would indicate a failed board. You’d also want to replace the associated fan at the same time. The fans also have a built in tachometer that sends a response to the board to let it know it’s spinning. If the tach fails, the board will stop sending voltage. Let me know what you’re seeing with the resistors.

[@robertbecton7025]

@@GraceAppliance Using the self-test in diagnostic mode, the fridge says the sensors all pass. Should I not rely on that to say the sensors are good? I had the freezer door open for more than 3 minutes and the evaporator fan never turned on. I have a newer model and it does not show those 2 big green resistors. I do not see any burned marks on the front of the board, I'll have to look on the back and see as well. On my board, there is a blinking green light for a resistor but I'm not sure what that means.

[@GraceAppliance]

Robert Becton hi, the sensor tests will only tell you if a sensor reads open or closed. It will tell you if the sensor has completely failed, but would not tell you if the read out tests correct based on the given temperature. At 36F (ice water) you should read out around 14.5Kohms for each sensor. I’m not familiar with the flashing light you’re referencing. What is your model number please?

[@robertbecton7025]

@@GraceAppliance ok, well I can test the lower freezer and fridge sensor since both of them are freezing foods. For the top one, I'll use an ice pack in water. The GE model I have is GSE25GSHJCSS.

[@GraceAppliance]

Ok, if you’ll put a thermostat inside the freezer to verify the true temp inside the freezer, at 0F you should be around 42.5k ohms.

[@fazilkhan4756]

What can the evaporator fan damage on a ge side by side refrigerator board

[@robertmunguia250]

Great video! Nice info all the time. Thanks!

[@GraceAppliance]

Thank you very much Robert! Great to hear from you and hope you’re doing well.

[@robertmunguia250]

Thanks Andy! I really enjoy your videos! We’ll keep watching.

[@bdesert]

Great video! And now a question: when I short pins 5 and 8 for condenser fan, it doesn't kick off. Actually, there is no voltage coming to fan (as well as to compressor). I've reviewed your video part1-part5, all voltages on a board as expected. Before that I had to replace two capacitors (but since I couldn't find 470um/25v, I have replaced with 470um/50V (I think this shouldn't be a problem at this point). Do you have video of how I can actually test fan and compressor (what voltage should on those)? Any suggestions on what I can check next to troubleshoot my situation? Thank you!

[@GraceAppliance]

Hi bdesert, I'd start with this video which will walk you through testing the fans from the control board. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hpm0fKR8arKaeqc There is also a follow up video to that one showing correct voltages after I replaced the board if you needed. It should show as a recommendation video. The capacitors you replaced with are just fine. You can go greater value on the voltages so long as the uF matches up. Let me know if you have any questions! Thanks

[@bdesert]

@@GraceAppliance , thanks for reply. I did start with Part 1 :) My readings on pins are: 3-4 : 12.0 V 3.5 : 13.5 V (still wires coming to a fan to the right of compressor are dead cold with 0 V) 3-8 : 13.5 V Hz on fans: 1-4 : 22 - 23 Hz (with jump 4-8 : 0 Hz, although fan spinning much faster) 1-5 : 0 Hz (while measuring this, fans inside the fridge start spinning faster) So, regardless correct voltage on the board, there is no voltage on compressor or fan. Thus I'm not confident I need to buy new board. :-/

[@GraceAppliance]

@@bdesert @bdesert hey sir, sorry about my response. I was doing that from my phone right as I was waking up. That may have been sleep typing. Haha Re reading, I see what you ACTUALLY wrote. Haha Try this, unplug the J2 plug and replug in the fridge. I want to rule out a shorted or faulty fan robbing voltage from other components. If so, your compressor should fire to life, but not the fans obviously because we just unplugged them at the J2 plug. Let me know what happens when you do this and we can go from there. Thanks and let me know if you have any questions! Andy

[@bdesert]

@@GraceAppliance Andy, Unplugged power, unplugged J2, replugged power (did that with doors opened and closed, same result): 1. No fans (obviously) 2. some very low noise from somewhere (not compressor) for 5 seconds, then total silence. 3. Compressor doesn't start, no power on compressor (tested wires directly). Then replugged J2 (with unplugged power of course), evap fan started working again, the rest without any change. The only things was different between J2 unplugged and plugged is purple wire. with J2 unplugged it became hot (indicator found it), although I don't know the voltage, don't think it is important at this point. With J2 plugged - no current on purple. And in general, there is a bunch of wires to the left of compressor. Indicator shows current only on the wire that goes from the 120V plug into fridge (brown). the rest of the wires - no current.

[@GraceAppliance]

Thank sir, *read my last statement first. Had a thought after typing this out.* The noise for 5 seconds you heard is the damper motor actuating. No issue there. So, the HZ read out you got for your evaporator fan motor isn't sounding right to me. It should be at a minimum 70Hz - i.e. low speed. You've said it's getting 12V which should be high speed. Once you jump it then speeds up you say. That's not lining up for me, but stick a pin in that for now - as one issue. You can test that voltage is being sent to the compressor by locating the light blue connector on the bottom of the board with 3 larger terminals on it. Test for voltage between the far left terminal and the orange wire on the plug to the right of that plug. If this shows 120v - your compressor should be running. (assuming the temperature sensors are in working order, which we'll check next) Let me know what you find on that. The only other thing that i'm wondering about is the fact that you have correct voltage at the control board to your condenser fan, but none at the plug to the condenser fan motor? This sounds like a poor connection issue. **Ahhhh....after typing all this it occurs to me - you may have a poor connection at the plug where the main power cord comes in to the fridge. Try this, unplug your refrigerator from the wall. Then, the main harness to the left of the compressor should have a large connector that you can disconnect from the main power cord. Unplug and plug this back in several times. Inspect it to be sure there is no corrosion build up, etc. Reassemble and reconnect to power.

[@crisvi81]

Hi, my fan turns on when i unplug the connector next to it, the one with 3 cables, red, pink and brown, so I think I found my problem, do you know what that plug is??? And what to test for that so I can replace?

[@GraceAppliance]

Hi, what is your model number for your fridge and what is the number on the board next to the plug. J1 for example..

[@crisvi81]

@@GraceAppliance hi! Thank you for replying!!! It’s a ge fridge, the model CZS25TSEBFSS and the board part number is 225D4205G004

[@crisvi81]

I can send u a picture of the one that i am referring to, it’s a plug with 3 cables, doesnt connected directly to the board it kind of ends up to J4

[@GraceAppliance]

@@crisvi81 The schematic shows that your J4 plug is your front touch panel. In your case, it is shorted and by unplugging it - removes the short from the system and the fridge can go back to working. To confirm this is in fact the plug for your touch panel, you can unplug the board from the fridge at the front touch panel instead of at the main control behind the fridge. If the fridge comes to life once this front touch panel is removed, that's your issue. Here is the part you need which can be found though this affiliate link: amzn.to/3qBVWbr I hope this helps! Thanks, Andy

[@rolmac870]

Very good video & info, THANKS

[@GraceAppliance]

Roland McDowell thanks very much Roland! You’re welcome! Andy If the information was helpful, please consider a $1 donation to the KZbin channel. It’s greatly appreciated. www.paypal.com/donate/?token=p_-S29vsNHZsyxBt-llMSH_zJe4utLKcfvVRiZJHP0vIM5ldZMsdxPh9xywqckuI65fdq0&country.x=US&locale.x=US

[@LongNguyen-mu7bb]

Could you help me how many Ohm ( electronic chip use for evaporator and condenser)on control board 200D4850G022 WR55X10942,thanks.chip # brown,black,gold,gold,pink.

[@GraceAppliance]

Long Nguyen hi, I hope this helps: www.allaboutcircuits.com/tools/resistor-color-code-calculator/

[@kennkeck1963]

So this fan being brushless, doesn't it need a controller board? Sry I'm working on mine it's sealed up.. long stry short, saw 12v but fan has been cycling on off and I guess when on low it needs a push, so cap right? But the cycling? The 10306 model, purchased fan motor today, dad was drunk, long day after tech cme out to tell me wut I knew 119 n fan 513 w labor WOW O n half off today only! But don't have the part! Comical I thought. But 12v comes in not surging voltage, just hope it's not a board, cuz I could replace caps now if accessable. 1 maybe 2 sec on offs , always, American Proud, KenK