Testing my printers for fire hazards - results all over the place...

[@3DPrintingNerd]

We pulled the thermistor from the heater block in the Anet E12 and set the hot end at 230c. It didn't melt off the heater block, the PLA we pushed through IMMEDIATELY vaporized. I have it on video :)

[@n1elkyfan]

3D Printing Nerd I'd like to see that.

[@josiahong5177]

Same

[@robertmurgea556]

definately want to see it

[@daid1500]

Thomas, None of the checks on the Ultimaker 3 are disabled. It also includes a "if heating at full power we expect temperature increase" check to protect against the final case of temperature sensor failures. If you want to check for yourself, you need to mess with the PT100 in the PrintCores themselves. The connector at the bottom to the printhead won't do you good, as the ADC conversion is actually in the printhead, disrupting the cable would cause a critical "print head communication error" (which also turns all heating off) Let me know if you want to know anything more. I'm the software engineer that did most of this firmware at Ultimaker.

[@theinspiringengineer-scien6393]

So it's akk your fault! :D :D

[@MakersMuse]

Thank you for doing these tests! I think it's important to put it out there in light of the recent fires. So with the Fab mini, could we like send a self destruct G-code to it that prints a cube then halfway through heats to 1000deg and plunges the nozzle into it. I'm almost tempted to try. >;D

[@MadeWithLayers]

Yes, I belive that would totally work! Only one way to find out (I'm not using it at all anyways 😎)

[@3DPrintingNerd]

PRINT OF DEATH!

[@MakersMuse]

if I wasn't away for 2 weeks I'd be trying it tonight haha

[@Rapu-Santeri]

Thomas Sanladerer Please make this happen!

[@markiemew]

Maker's Muse Jesus Christ, Angus, that's a side of you I haven't seen before.

[@spikekent]

Thanks Tom, real tests on actual printers, just what a lot of people need.

[@nicewhenearnedrudemostlyel489]

I enjoy for the same reason, but if this is what you call a 'real' test, you're mistaken.

[@spikekent]

I know what you mean. If Tom says it, you KNOW it's gonna be right and he has the technical skills to back it up. He's never done a vid that I wasn't glued to.

[@TheMightyevo]

its one of the few chanels for people with printers and not just interested/noobs

[@jacobstacey6911]

After watching this video, I cleared off my desk and work space. I'm fortunate enough to be able to work from home, so I have all of my hobby equipment in my home office as well. I just tossed a match down in the area where I fdm and resin print, and my whole desk ignited. What I concluded was cleaning my prints with alcohol and other thinning solutions, caused the ultra thinned resin to seep into my work surfaces, and while not sticky and cleaned with household cleaners regularly, it was extremely flammable. Off to the hardware store I went to buy some medium duty metal shelving with wire shelving, metal trash cans, and baking trays to catch drips. Now there are no surfaces of substantial size for the materials to accumulate as the tin foil on the baking trays can be discarded in the metal trash can. We have 4 kids living at home who are substantially safer due to your video raising awareness and provoking me to simulate an accidental ignition. Fire suppression is next on the list, for now I'm keeping an extra K-Class and ABC class extinguisher in my office as a precaution.

[@MadeWithLayers]

MEDIA OFFLINE Please excuse these, Adobe Premiere Pro is acting up!

[@WhereNerdyisCool]

Yeah their latest updates clobbered me a few times on my recent video edits.

[@jhsevs]

+Thomas Sanladerer Did you see my message here on KZbin regarding a relay-based smoke detector that I use?

[@jhsevs]

Also great video, as always

[@spikekent]

No problem, happily, normal service resumed quickly :-)

[@RobinGantois]

Jee eeThomas Sanladerer

[@ManuelMcLure]

I'm constantly reminded that my AM8 (with RAMPS and Marlin) has thermal runaway protection enabled when I start heating the bed with the power supply switched off :) But I'd rather have a few false positives at the start of a print than a house fire later in the print :)

[@fulg]

FYI: In recent Marlin releases, the MINTEMP/MAXTEMP errors are not thrown unless you turn on the heaters. This was changed from before where it would throw the error immediately even without heating.

[@echannover48]

You could test the Ultimaker by taking out the Printcores. On the back of the cores there are four cables. Two for the pt100 and two for the heater. You could unplug those, short them etc. Just FYI though, the UM3 does have Min/Max Temp. Errors and a “Printcore/Heated Bed is taking too long to heat up” Error Message.

[@daid1500]

Note, if you want to simulate the worst possible sensor failure, replace the PT100 with a 100Ohm resistor. If you want to worst possible failure, then wire the heater to always on. We also tried this on both the UM2 and UM3.

[@Pi-Tutorials]

Tested my Tronxy X1 with stock Repetier 0.9.1. Max/min temps were enabled, but not thermal runaway. I now have Repetier 1.0.2 installed complete with thermal runaway protection enabled. Thanks Tom

[@aajpeter]

Thank you so much for your hard work! Big caveat: I don't know what's floating out in the wild, but Marlin before 1.1.0-RC2 says the thermal runaway protection only "starts only AFTER the temperature reaches the target, this will not catch a thermistor that is already disconnected when the print starts!" which of course is a huge flaw - imagine a cold wire breaks after homing for a new print. And the testing the way you did it would never have triggered the protection even if it was enabled. I believe this means people need to upgrade to at least 1.1.0-RC3-ish in order to have more robust protection.

[@potatojz38]

I really appreciate you showing people the potential hazards of some printers and what can be done to make them safer. When I was a admin for the Anet A8 FB page. The number one thing I stressed to people as "upgrades/modification" was to reflash the firmware to Marlin for the thermal runaway protection. I've even one on one pm'd people to help them figure the steps out.

[@nicewhenearnedrudemostlyel489]

I applaud your efforts. I wish i could trust facebook enough to join and learn what you have to offer, but i can't.

[@Anonymouspock]

NiceWhenEarned RudeMostlyElse Facebook is an awful platform for 3d printing communities as it has exactly the same problems as 90s era Usenet, namely difficulties in finding previous instances of a question. Reddit is much better in this way.

[@MostlyInteresting]

I'm the moderator for the ANet A6 FB group. And yes I/we advocate strongly that new members flash Marlin on their machines to at least get the fail safes. I have a guide in the group files and good copies of the extra files they will need. To make it easy, even if they don't know Arduino and/or micro flashing.

[@MostlyInteresting]

True. I am working on a FAQ for the Group Files as required reading. Every time I see an often repeated point I add to it.

[@andrewlentz5609]

Thank you for your focus on safety Tom! Because of your videos i'm swapping out the Melzi board on my Monoprice Maker Select v2.1 to a Duet Wifi. I'm not very experienced with doing this kind of work, but you've convinced me that it's worth it.

[@android4cg]

Great tests !!! This will push the vendors to not forget the safety features.

[@dadsfriendlyrobotcompany]

Just built my custom printer and used the new Marlin which has a version of runaway protection enabled stock. E3D V6, 2 Noctua fans, 2020 extrusion full box frame with vslot rails for movement, external heater module for the large bed, etc. outer size: 640x450x450mm Print volume: 300 mm^3 PLA heat time: 2 minutes (200° and 60°)

[@DAveShillito]

I've not actually thought about this in detail, but since the CR10 has connectors at the back of the control box, it would probably be quite easy to build a CR10 tester that you could place between the control box and printer, with switches to break and short the thermistor circuit, as well as break the heater connection. It's a bit of work, but easier and safer than running with the box open.

[@damium]

Interesting results. Another failure mode that has caused fires is the heater core being poorly secured or working loose and falling out. This isn't really mitigated by fans as it would typically fall directly into the active work area and start whatever was printing on fire after a short bit. Thermal runaway protection is required to mitigate that failure mode.

[@philevans4021]

Although it might not be as much of an issue in terms of thermal runaway if the heater loses its connection, of course it is also conceivable that with the same "symptoms" of no temperature climb and a particularly badly constructed printer for the heater to come out of the block, which could be far worse as it could be hanging out with nothing cooling it, and nothing to take the heat away from it.

[@jostsalathe]

I don't own a Mini Fabrikator so this is just speculation, but since it is quite budget-friendly, I suggest, the min- and maxtemp checks could be disabled so the printer doesn't immediately freak out if the thermistor leads have slightly loose connections but work fine 99% of the time. This could be induced by cheap and this wires that over time on repetitive motions. The thermal runaway protection would trigger in the long run if the connection gets too bad. In this scenario the connection loss would at first probably only occur on a specific position of the actuators and, thus, not really affect the overall temperature control although it would trip the mintemp check. Would be a bit sketchy for a solution, but the printer really is not expensive...

[@andyspoo2]

Thermal runaway on the ANet depends on what firmware your using. With custom firmware it's already enabled.

[@sauropodmailman]

Surprised by the Sigma. Such an oversight for such a beautiful engineered machine.

[@KyleSSamuelson]

Please do more printers, this is really good information.

[@LazerLord10]

My printer triggers mintemp immediately after unplugging the thermistor. Weird on your end.

[@diezijner2606]

Thanks for the video! This is a thing I find really important about 3d-printers!

[@MrS3NS3]

Thanks for the great videos about the safety. After view the first two i was reading and reading and... reading... :) I have an Anycubic I3 Mega (8Bit Trigorilla) that was in my opinion very unsafe. So i changed the most of it. The cable issues before your videos. Here a List: 1: 12V PSU cable ends are soldered and screwed in that blue print clamps. Of course all there very loose. The same on heated bed and nozzle cables. I have crimped a "Aderendhülse" and screwed in tight. 2: The heated bed cable on the outside of the printer was first not very flexible and second shrinked in a harder shrinkwrap and bend mostly on one position. I have now used very flexible cables and put them into a cablechain. 3: Min/Max Temp was enabled, Runanway not. I have found a special Marlin 1.1.8 for Anycubic TFT release for the 8Bit Trigorilla/Anycubic printer and set the values for Runaway after measure the heatup times and calculate what is normal. To test it i was too lazy to open the case again. So i set wrong values in the runaway protection so it should stop over 50°C because it heated then very slow. And it works :) The downside is that no one has access to the special Anycubic LCD so it don´t show that errors. But it stops all heaters and i can read the reason on the Octoprint Terminal. I have changed, no safety relation, the stepper driver to Trinamic TMC2208 and build in two silent fans instead one monster loud thing for the Board :) Next is the coldend and part fan.

[@cfzone8685]

I can't wait for your Anet A8 video! Good vid by the way.

[@genericaccount9222]

You should rotate the cr10 LCD footage

[@MadeWithLayers]

But then it would be upside down!

[@spikekent]

... and I would have been standing on my head for no reason

[@williamwestonn]

The weird text on the screen probably comes from a error between the screen and something els on the printer.. I had this issue with a project i used and it was a cable for a led error signal. make sure the screen cables is properly installed (this is for the MK3)

[@Rabanvulf]

Just in case it hasn't been mentioned, the Anet A8 hot end cooling fan is always on, and the part cooling fan is controlled by software. Haven't done the tests, but I just recently upgraded to Marlin, so I can't check the default software anymore... Thanks for the video, was really interesting to see what the manufacturers are up to.

[@dduncane]

As far as I remember the source for the CR-10/CR-10s, thermal runaway protection is not enabled on the firmware ^^

[@RevampedOutdoors]

That's a lot longer than I want my heater core to heat up outside the heat block. Those things get red hot in seconds. Hard to set failsafes that quick though it would throw errors every print.

[@purduephotog]

Revamped Outdoors yeah I was a little shocked. Next test in a cup of water to measure the heat output. I'd really would've liked to see an amnmeter to see what the heating profile was

[@blitzvinnigFPV]

Hey Tom, will you be doing a review on the mmu2 for the mk3. Keep up the great work!

[@DeputatKaktus]

I am currently modding my Anet A8. Well, in fact it is a complete rebuild where I only hold on to the stepper motors, extruder and hot end. Reflashing the firmware was the first thing I did. I discovered a way to test the Thermal Runaway protection by accident. All it takes is to turn on the bed heater, get it up to temp and then add your glass plate. The printer „scrammed“ within 3 seconds. 😅

[@joejia1410]

I have fire retardant on everything, also I have an automatic fire extinguisher if a sensor of 5 detects a certain temperature it will point there and fire.

[@ized88]

All my printer I run when I'm not in the same room, I have updated to have those features activated. Some other are still stock but aren't used for long prints 😅

[@MostlyInteresting]

Anet uses an old version of Repetier. And yes all the models I have seen A6, A8, E10... use the same Anet board and the thermal runaway is off. Many of these have been flashed to Marlin though, for these and many other features. How many?

[@snoozieboi]

Oh god, currently noob printing whilst seeing this video being a bit distracted and that sound goes off at 3:50. Thanks for the heart attack! :D

[@alexandrevaliquette1941]

It would be usefull if people who "thumbs down" express themself on the reasons they did so. Thumbs up for me. Alex from Québec, Canada

[@vapulabe]

My (now defunct) K8200 (Velleman, also sold as 3DDrag) had it's thermistor teared off while printing. It didn't trigger any error message. Temperature rose very much, TPFE heat-break damaged, luckily printer is a mostly metal one so no more damages. I had planned to tear if down and reuse the part for a self-made printer so I didn't care to fix the problem... But clearly no thermal runaway detection (and I can also say that there was no mintemp detection either).

[@bora6997]

Some firmware are predefined to be 5 minutes instead of 2 in order to trigger the runaway protection

[@Technology89]

All anet and creality printers don't have the thermal runaway enabled. And i think this is bad for the whole industrie. In last time i often read in facebook groups 'Don't buy chinese printers. They burn your house down!' from people that don't even know why there were anets burning down. Just because something is more expensive it doesn't mean its safer (like we seen on the signma that has also no thermal runaway protection). Cheap chinese printers can be good and safe (except for anets) with very little effort. For example the new ender-3 is a reliable extremly good printer especially when u bought it for 125€ in the presale. But i always tell people to take 15 mins to make it safe because creality learned a lot in the past from the community but still do some things the wrong way. They still solder the wire-endings in the screw terminals and they still do not use thermal runaway protection. So take the time to flash a bootloader and install a new marlin firmware. In almost any group for any printer out there there is a preo configured marlin in the file section to flash. Don't condemn cheap printers just because they are cheap just look at whats missing and solve it with very little effort and money or buy an expensive printer that has these features already. Not every one that is doing 3d printing as a hobby can afford something like a prusa so lead them the way to print good and safe with cheaper printers. And most import: Stop recommending anet printers... Still see a lot of youtube videos where they say its a good printer for the price... Its not! There are much better and safer alternatives on the market.

[@andreasrasmussen2655]

Anets can be safe if you take your time to fix what anet missed but you will spend a bit of money so it wont be as cheap after all.i spend around 300 total on my anet a8 and its pretty safe. (Thermal runaway, alu frame, bigger psu, mosfets etc.)

[@GregAtlas]

Have the manufacturers released an updated firmware to fix this since the video came out? I hope there will be an update video in the future because it would be interesting to see if more modern printers have the settings enabled or not.

[@MrWobling]

Hey Tom - how about building the Anet A8 up and "accidentally" filming a thermal runaway in progress? Probably one to do outside and with the "don't try this at home kids" disclaimer.

[@SwervingLemon]

Andrew E I've had about a half-dozen of them running for months. If you flash marlin and use a decent mosfet for the heatbed (and make a better connection for the heatbed) then they become no more dangerous than any other 3D printer.

[@nlagas]

I think the thermal runaway protection covers the non functioning thermal sensor and the software could take care about the max temp.

[@saddle1940]

These tests are for mainboards actually working and the software doing what it was supposed too. I don't think that's what burns houses down though. The type of faults I have seen are where the mainboard processor has gone bananas or the electronics around the temp sensor or drive fet is faulty. If the controlling fet gets turned on and then the processor goes to lunch and doesn't come back (the code froze when the power was glitched as the heater is enabled), then what's to stop the heating to continue till something dies or melts? Or what if the fet shorts and the heater is just given 12v or 24v continuously? To me, these seem the most dangerous type of fire risk. I find it surprising that the first one would ever occur as all of these chips have watchdogs built in but as I have seen this happen, obviously not enabled or coded properly. The second means there are no hardware limit circuits to the incoming sensor data or fet driver. It's just a processor input pin reading the temp sensor through a couple or resistors and maybe a cap, and an output pin going through a resistor to drive a fet. You could have a voltage window comparator clamp or override the fet (or a switch to turn off the supply to it) if the incoming sensor voltage is too high or low. Even just a resistor, diode and cap in line with the output from the processor and you'd have to pulse the fet to keep it going, 100% on would not be possible. We're talking a couple of cents here, maybe. These boards don't seem to have been designed, coded or looked at by industrial machine people and very little thought has gone into faults and safety. Bling seems to be the priority.

[@davey3765]

I had so many problems with the runaway protection going off due to my CR-10S taking so long to get the heat bed hot I just disabled the protection in the latest Marlin firmware. I would rather just add a second thermal sensor to the bed (I have a box full of these). I wonder if its even possible?

[@mkile]

Try soldering iron on hotend, it might trigger error

[@moots27]

You should do a review on the Ender 3. Its an insane budget 3d printer option that looks worthwhile.

[@MrWobling]

On an Anet A8, the thermal runaway mode is particularly dangerous - the heater can get hot enough to melt through the aluminium heater block, through the aluminium bed and then set fire to whatever is underneath. So the (mostly metal) construction of the extruder assembly is somewhat academic. The flammable acrylic frame is still potentially an exacerbating factor however.

[@nicewhenearnedrudemostlyel489]

i didn't know that. people really make heaters able to melt aluminum, and use them to melt plastic?

[@MrWobling]

At the end of the day, the heaters are just coils of wire. A heater with enough power to heat up a hotend in reasonable time will get hot enough to melt aluminium in runaway conditions.

[@nicewhenearnedrudemostlyel489]

i mean, does anything other than the a8 use a heater that strong? sounds like this might be more of a necessary evil for the idea, than something anet is doing wrong. not that they don't do wrong, but it seems silly to call them out for doing something everyone does.

[@Monkeh616]

The A8 heater is not specially powerful. Aluminium melts at ~660C. A 40W element in open air is quite capable of exceeding this. Whether it actually can inside the heater block with (badly) attached heatsink, and also manage to get through the large aluminium plate bolted to four aluminium bearing blocks of substantial thermal capacity is another matter. I have a spare heater cartridge, a suitable power supply, and a few bits of scrap alu - perhaps I'll test this claim in a worst-case scenario (no bearing blocks, no heatsink, no heater block - let's just drop a 40W cartridge loosely on a piece of aluminium and find out if it melts it). I'm not entirely convinced it'd manage it. Now, getting out of the heater block and flapping its way over to a piece of the acrylic frame, which can and most certainly will burn spectacularly if exposed to such temperatures, that I believe.

[@MerlinSN1]

The fan spinning all the time, is because you put the printer to heat with the menu option "PreHeat PLA" my old geeetech printer does the same. If you heat up normally (Control menu option, gcode or an actual print) the part cooling fan will not start and the printer will catch on fire.

[@GregAtlas]

21:34 looks like you had an error in premier pro.

[@V1N_574]

Do they have min temp for when the printer is running? Just in case the thermistor gets out of the heat block or worst the heat element gets out of the heat block.

[@flyingskull]

Anet A2 with Skynet3D firmware have default enabled all safty feature

[@DCDLaserCNC]

Thanks for these tests and checks Tom. Very good information.

[@MarcVroegh]

Test this also with the ender 3

[@PatriotPaulUSA]

Both My CR10s and both my Ender 2s are updated to TH3D unified firmware which has thermal runway enabled by default. Tevo Lil Monster still needs updating and my Folgertech FT5 uses regular Marlin and I will turn it on and update it to the latest Marlin and enable the thermal runaway protection

[@positron5687]

Thanks. Why di you have so many different printers?

[@ezekielhudson5769]

as of today defaults on marlin (2.0.X) the protections are enabled min set to 5C for all and max temp is set to 275C thermal run away is enabled for bed and hotend yay for marlin (2.0.X)

[@madhunugg]

What about the Doly? It is made of kindling... Have you ensured to enabled the safety features?

[@ized88]

That with the fans of anet e10 is a setting they did in the preheat settings. Cr-10 should have the same with preheat pla 😁

[@hardkur]

Your prusa bead looks like mine ! refreshing glue for the win !

[@govido3242]

Serious question: is there a safety feature if your heater comes loose and falls out? My printer was shaking while printing a small part and the screw got loose. Result: heater falling on the abs part and while heating setting the part on fire

[@jackfmail]

Thank you for doing this. Really enjoyed the video and learned a lot. May I ask what software you were using as console control?

[@MadeWithLayers]

Good ol' Pronterface! (from the Prusa software package)

[@jackfmail]

Thank you. Seems really useful. Appreciated!

[@jojodroid31]

Hi Tom, so as far as I know, my anet runs the hotend fan only all the time but at a relatively low speed, but I'm on skynet though. This one has thermal runaway which is probably a good thing because I already had a lot of those in the past 🤤

[@Monkeh616]

The A8 board has no control over the hotend cooling fan - it is permanently on.

[@RicoElectrico]

What about inverse of thermal runaway protection - testing if temperature rises despite heater set to 0%?

[@powermos]

Hi Thomas! Can you please test Form Futura's warp-free abs and asa? I was staying away from abs for years now, and if this stuff is really warp-free i would consider going back. It's the TitanX and ApolloX fillaments, thank you.

[@nerdsanctuary8307]

While I didn't get any super useful information out of it, I found this video very entertaining.

[@WyvernDotRed]

Trust me, I'm an engineer! And that fan on full speed is an setting on the Anet printer (you can actually change it in firmware)...

[@zarster]

Why not turn the video of the Cr10 display 180 I post?

[@viperbite18]

Thanks for making this video. Glad I saw it

[@MegaMaking]

wow... 30 mins of content! love it!

[@MadeWithLayers]

You saw what my timeline looked like for the edit, right ;-)

[@MegaMaking]

yea i did :)

[@tomolsen8830]

Hi Tom, I have had my wanhao I3 plus for less the a year. Is there a tutorial somewhere that shows me how to see if the safety checks are enabled in the firmware. My priner is stock with the origional firmware. It is a actually a rebranded i3 plus it that makes any difference. Great channel. You, Makers Muse and 3D printing Nerd gave me the push to get into 3d printing.

[@scarlettekk]

I wonder why the MK3 garbles the display before it triggers the MAXTEMP and MINTEMP errors.

[@guatagel2454]

Third video in a row that I watch, and just realized that this is not Maker's Muse channel...

[@sysghost]

When it comes to Creality's printers, I recommend updating them to the latest Marlin firmware directly from Marlin's website. Creality's own firmware are bare minimum with no security at all.

[@mattlogue1300]

Wait. Red and black in US is 230V from split phase service. Its hot and hot like the dryer uses. No white neutral.

[@kamilkosi9101]

Tevo Tarantula has thermal runaway enabled!

[@gazeddy]

stock anet a8. parts fan is controlled the hotend fan is always on with power. the extruder assembly isnt all that much plastic though the fans and nozzle for parts fan

[@elvinhaak]

Hi, I'm really wondering how my CTC-printers would react on a 'thermal runaway safety'. They are like Anet A8... I know they do have thermal protection enabled... at least when it is a bit cold (7 degrees or less) in the room when I turn them on... they are giving an error, also if the thermistor is broken. Well this is kind of ok although I'd like it to be a lower temperature since now I need to start it up sometimes with a heatgun or things like that in wintertime. I have put it in an enclosure so it stays warm enough while printing after a start but cooling-down is a pain in the ... But: when it is printing and the heating falls out of the block? Didn't test but a lot of time (even in surroundings of about 17 degrees) it just doesn't reach or keep its temperature. Would that give a fail when it is enabled? For example when printing I put the temperature up to 240 degrees but it just doesn't come over 230-235 degrees, and falls below 210 when printing faster with cold filament pushing in and fans spinning while bridging. A bit later it slows down in the print and goes up to about 230 again... If you enable thermal-runaway, does it shut the printer down and fail because of that? By the way, thanks for the warning and stating you are an Engineer. I know this is in Germany a level of education and yes, kids or not-educated people should really not work in unprotected electrical environments.

[@coatduck]

27:59 that's literally the first time I've ever heard your last name, now I feel like a stupid north-american.

[@REDSIX]

Sanlala

[@cheezyst3v3]

I know im late but i have a anet a8 and put marlin on it and it does have thermal runaway for the heating up

[@stephenberrisford4064]

Thanks, great content 👍

[@AnneArchibald]

Mintemp has caused problems for people whose thermistor couldn't tell the difference between room temperature and open - environment too cold or thermistor aimed at higher temperatures. So some firmwares have more complex hacks instead.

[@newperspective5918]

I am currently setting up safety guidelines for the 3D printer (CR-10) at my workplace. I was thinking about adding a stove guard that automatically shuts off power if ambient air temperature gets too hot. But if I got you right that should not be needed for the CR-10 if I already enabled runaway protection? Considering the metal parts and always on fan?

[@blafaselbubu]

If ambient temp is too hot, means the whole thing is burning already. Smoke detector should have triggered long time before.

[@newperspective5918]

Well that all depends on location of detector and temperatur limit. Ofcourse that would need to be optimized. However my main concern is that the office is unattended during night. Even if the smoke detector goes off no one will be there to hear it until the next morning when first workers arrive. There needs to be some sort of automatic shut down of power if something is starting to go bad.

[@blafaselbubu]

Not really. How do you want define hot ambient temp? If you print ABS, it's pretty hot "outside". If you read 200C and up outside, most likely the whole thing is burning already. Power shut down will happen anyway in this case. You passed the point where you have control over anything. The only useful protection in this case is automatic fire extinguisher.

[@newperspective5918]

Well I am talking more about an ambient temperature of between 50-100 degrees C (I will accept disabling system for printing heat sensitive such as ABS). And with ambient I mean air just on the side/top of printer or wall/roof of enclosure. Does really automatic fire extinguisher solve the problem though? If the heating is stuck in "on" mode won't the heating continue after the fire has been put out and eventually a new fire will start? I mean sure if the wires burn off then it will obviously stop, but will that happen soon enough?

[@blafaselbubu]

Because you mentioned an office, I think you should stick to the safety regulations which applies to your building. Talk to a responsible person.He/She will tell you what's required and maybe ask your insurance company. In case something happens, you will be responsible for that. From my experience with server rooms, you will need a smoke/fire detector with an automatic fire extinguisher. This is a way to go for correct ambient monitor/control.

[@peekpt]

And there's one more Safety Mode: You are f*Cked - when the mosfet shorts out.

[@yaboibreadstix5526]

You should try out the Monoprice Select Mini 3D Printer V2, as it is reasonable price with quality as it seems

[@nicewhenearnedrudemostlyel489]

You should do things yourself, instead of very shittily(yeah) begging others to do it for you.

[@yaboibreadstix5526]

NiceWhenEarned RudeMostlyElse I’m not forcing him to, I’m just suggesting the idea

[@RiffyDevine]

How are you able to control a printer via a PC like that? I got a CR-10S S5 next to my system.

[@GKUZYK1]

Hi Tom how do you enable thermal runaway on a lulzbot mini and Anycubic i3 mega? Like the video very informative to explain the safety issues that should be applied to all 3D printers. Thanks again great job like watching your videos.

[@laboratorio3d178]

I think you should test thermal runaway by blowing nozzle with cold air.

[@GroovyDrifter]

So the Anets an the Creality printers behave exactly the same right? Did not sound like that...

[@KrX3D]

What about Dolly ? ;)

[@xSchattenfluchx]

Just a comment to disabled thermal runaway protection: It also protects against the heater cartridge falling out of the heat block. When that happens, the cartridge easily starts glowing and the heatsink fan will do jack shit against that. Edit: with hotends using a grub screw to mount the cartridge, a heater cartridge falling out is not completely unheard of.

[@vega1287]

i have the problem that my tevo tornado triggers thermal runnaway just after printing a short path of fillament so i fixed it by removing the thermistor and adding some cryonaut thermal past before re installing it turns out it was the heated bed so now i am juist printing without it

[@darknessblades]

Do you know how i can enable this on a ANET A9? it should use the same board as the A8. Not sure about this since i have not gotten my printer yet.

[@pinkmouse4863]

Yikes, please don't yank power cords out like that, you could damage the cable and create a fire risk! ;-)

[@vasya88]

I have to say that 7:00 is not looking very convincing, the scene cut was brutal and we can see that the bed temp risen to 56 degrees, now the bed heats up way slower than the hotend, and by the time the preheat error triggered if say the thermistor was just popped out of its palace not reading the actual hotend temp it could of already got to 400C before the firmware would of cut power, in their defense the thermistor probably cant just pop out of its place, but may be faulty and not read temp well and this could be bad.

[@MrWobling]

I can confirm that the Anet A8 runs the hotend fan all the time the printer is switched on, but the part cooling fan is off by default. However, the thermal connection between the hot end fan heat sink and the rest of the extruder body is so poor, I think it's practically useless.

[@MostlyInteresting]

The throat is bolted on a big metal bracket, with more metal bearing holders on that. So its heat sinked a bit there. :) Without all that you would see a difference.

[@4WDJUSTY]

I have chinese J-head V6 running on 24V with external mosfet block (because original ones on my chinese ramps 1.4 didn't work) I used to have it all freely moving around because "it is just for test purpose" for almost a year :D once the mosfet touched the metal case of powersupply and caused the temperature to fly somewhere over 300°C for a while (maybe about hour) the teflon tube heatbreaker and nozzle was full of pure coal... no fire... I Install a new nozzle anh heatbreaker and everything runs great since that...

[@minty_lint]

How about a video series where you design and build a printer specifically for printing high temp materials life PEEK and PEKK. Show us the design considerations and the reality of insulating, heating and making safe a high-temp engineering grade 3d printer.

[@MostlyInteresting]

That would be great and I would be interested for one. But it would have to be a side thing, because most, even the guys here on this more technical than average 3DP channel, would zone out.

[@nlagas]

Just tested the thermal runaway on the Ultimaker 3 by removing the thermistor from the print head and got an Error 15 after 20 seconds saying « heater error on the PrintCore in print head slot 1. Go to Ultimaker website ER15 »