Testing Various Stains on Maple - Iron Nitrate and Dye Stains

We are doing a quick experiment on a maple stock because we were honestly curious how different stains and combinations of stains would look on the same piece of wood. Jim's favorite result was Kibler's Iron Nitrate with Laurel Mountain Forge Maple over top of it.
Yes, the video isn't the best quality but there was no way I was going to get Jim to film it a second time once I had a chance to charge the batteries on my camera stabilizer! I still thought most of our subscribers would find value in it so I took the footage out of the graveyard for you all.
Products used:
Kibler's Iron Nitrate gun stock stain
Laurel Mountain Forge Maple stain
Laurel Mountain Forge Honey Maple stain
Kibler's Iron Nitrate PLUS Laurel Mountain Forge Maple on top
Kibler's Iron Nitrate PLUS Laurel Mountain Forge Honey Maple on top
Tried and True Varnish Oil (undiluted) with all stain combinations. Jim chose this since it is very thick and wouldn't penetrate the wood very much since we still wanted to make a stock from this blank
Thanks,
Katherine
Curly/figured maple: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qXmkaIuNjdNpfck
Staining & finishing WR: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fXfUgphpn9aYobs
Stock sand- along: kzbin.info/www/bejne/b2WvmGyuf7iBiKc

[@FrontierTradingCompany]

This was the most fascinating part of building my kit, in my opinion. Thanks for the video!

[@kiblerjim]

So happy it was helpful and you enjoyed it!

[@TS-nb9ko]

Boy i will tell you.everything jim does you can tell so much attention to detail.never skips a step.directions are fantastic.jims knowledge makes me want to do my best.its kinda infectious.thanks jim love your videos

[@kiblerjim]

i'm happy to hear that, thank you for watching!

[@billgraswich7735]

So glad you made this video! Had been considering various options for staining, heated iron nitrate, and dyes on curly maple. This short video helped me understand what results can be expected from the various techniques. I really appreciated you also show results combining applications, since that would have been my next question. Best Regards.

[@jamesvatter5729]

Well done.. These videos are always helpful. Thanks for sharing.

[@stephenfields6236]

Excellent instructional video! Thanks to you both for taking the time to make it for us. It is really helpful.

[@kiblerjim]

Thank you! we are glad that you found it helpful!

[@user-jx2tc5gr8j]

Omg! Thank you for the video! Very well explained

[@johannesvanhoek9080]

Thank you sir, that was a great video and I appreciate your time 👍

[@kiblerjim]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@johnvaness8445]

Great video Thanks. Fabulous piece of wood too!

[@kiblerjim]

Glad you liked it!

[@ndmike]

That is a great video guys! Very helpful when one is trying to decide what works the best based on personal preference. I myself love the look from Aqua Fortis. I like how it really creates a drastic difference with the stripes or what people call tiger stripes.

[@kiblerjim]

Thanks Mike!

[@BMF625]

Awesome video. Great points on how each piece of wood will stain differently.

[@kiblerjim]

Glad you liked it!

[@TS-nb9ko]

I love these videos

[@skurb24]

I sooo badly want to order a SMR...just so nervous about Canadian taxes, import fees etc...really wish the border was open and was allowed to pick it up (and some Yeungling!). Watched all the videos!!! Have a feeling my order will be placed this week...if not, sooner! PS...Jim is getting so comfortable in front of the camera! So much has changed from the earlier videos!!

[@kiblerjim]

so happy to hear you enjoy the videos! thank you so much for your support

[@kevincolwell9575]

actually, I think you helped me a lot. This reminded me that just having more dense curl can give me the extra dark that I need as well as anything. I have always just loved aqua fortis. Learned it from Alan Longmire, the tomahawk guy. good man.

[@kiblerjim]

So glad it was helpful! Thanks for your support!

[@MichaelmhAshley]

Great example of color variations. Though a narrative was given, it would be very helpful to offer a list of items used and where available. Thanks again. Best to all. M. L. Ashley

[@davorvukovic9838]

Beautiful, Helo from Croatia Europe!

[@kiblerjim]

Hello! Thank you for the compliment!

[@jackblackpowderprepper4940]

Excellent demonstration.

[@kiblerjim]

Thank you Jack!

[@RonOhio]

I would like to try aqua fortis followed by LMF cherry and T&T oil.

[@sojourner57]

Looks good, just got my Woodrunner kit. Is there any historical precedent for a natural, blond finish, with just the catalyzed linseed oil (or tung oil) over the maple?

[@todd718]

Are the scrap pieces of wood from rough-cutting the blank available? They would make great knife scales and tomahawk handles.

[@kevincolwell9575]

thanks for this. I was playing with some of these same ideas last week myself. I make swords, often Chinese style. I need to get a dark red/brown that also makes maple look good. I have used aqua fortis for years, and I am looking for something darker. I have tried tannic acid, too. I used metal acid stains plus aqua fortis. Transtint. I am looking for advice. Think chocolate plus red. That's what I need.

[@geraldbergeron]

I was told to add baking soda with water after the aqua fortis to stop the reaction: or the wood will become blask with the years... What do you think ? Thank you, your videos are GREAT !! I learn a lot !!

[@sliverslinger2]

Can you guys do a video of using tannic acid and iron nitrate together? Thanks, love all the info you guys are putting out, really helpful!!

[@kiblerjim]

We have a video on this from a few years back. kzbin.info/www/bejne/sJPKlnSGo7eUl5Y

[@jakeoutdoors9600]

I have been flipping through your videos and your kits turn into beautiful firearms. I subscribed because I am thinking about purchasing Southern Mountain rifle kit in 45 cal from you guys. I was unable to find videos of you guys shooting the rifles. I would like to see the accuracy. I have probably close to a dozen black powder firearms, while a few are amazingly accurate they are not on the same quality level as your kits. To sum it up I would love to see a video of shooting groups at 100 yards if possible.

[@FrontierTradingCompany]

Check out "ilovemuzzleloading", Ethan does shooting videos with his SMR.

[@FatherGregorian]

Black Powder TV does a good “Load Development” video too.

[@110665]

Whats recommended on walnut, no stain and just oil maybe?

[@daveannis2280]

I've just ordered some iron nitrate to try this on my mapple-topped guitar. It comes in powder form though... any tips on concentration levels to achieve the kind of amazing results you are getting in this video? thanks!

[@SOLT_Mark]

Have you seen the technique where black dye stain is applied then sanded back? The black absorbs more into the end grain (curly part) so it gets a deeper appearance. Then the dye stain of your choice goes over the whole thing. I have not done it but saw it once and it really popped the curl beautifully. Thanks for the video's.

[@jermuller]

I used your iron nitrate on a birdseye maple stock and it turned out amazing.

[@kiblerjim]

That's great! I'm glad you are pleased with your results!

[@davidmorse6062]

Does the iron nitrate continue to turn color and eventually turn black?

[@stephenblack3183]

I love your channel, very informative! where do you get the iron nitrate?

[@kiblerjim]

Thanks for watching! We make the iron nitrate, you can purchase it on our website: kiblerslongrifles.com/products/iron-nitrate-gun-stock-stain?_pos=1&_sid=2d98b0835&_ss=r

[@BugsBunny-st8lf]

Could you please although show us something how to treat the Ramrod? Maybe especialy how to get these curls. How to "burn in" these marks?

[@kiblerjim]

I have never done that so I wouldn't be a good person to show the marks, but I will show how to finish a ramrod sometime.

[@hkguitar1984]

Great comparison and Thank You When heating the Iron Nitrate, how hot does the wood's surface need to be? I'm considering using this process on a guitar neck that has a rosewood fingerboard glued to the back-side of the maple. Excessive heat and glue can be problematic!

[@bradleybernier7526]

Heat until it changes color. You will see it happen pretty quickly from green/grey to orange. When it goes orange that's it. Keep the heat moving or it will char.

[@kiblerjim]

I'm not sure of the exact temperature, but you will see the color change. Any heat gun should get hot enough

[@hkguitar1984]

@@kiblerjim Thank You, very much appreciate your input. 👍

[@StevenMMan]

My only question is ... does heat trick work on the dye stain?

[@kiblerjim]

Good question. No. The dye stains are not heat-activated so there will not be any change with heat. Iron Nitrate is heat-activated.

[@johnveglio4433]

You showed how it looks with stain over the iron nitrate, how about nitrate over the stain ?? Would it come out any different?

[@kiblerjim]

due to the heat gun step, the iron nitrate should be done first

[@YourResidentSerb]

is iron nitrate food safe? Could I do a cutting board or serving board with it?

[@kiblerjim]

We don't know if it's food safe for sure, but I assume no

[@johnhughes3963]

Could I use iron nitrate on my tiger maple table?

[@kiblerjim]

Yes, that would look good

[@timshettlesworth5147]

what kind of scraper was he using in the beginning of the video?

[@kiblerjim]

Card scraper that we sell on our website: kiblerslongrifles.com/products/card-scraper

[@waynewang3115]

what do you use on cherry wood stock?

[@kiblerjim]

There are options for cherry: no stain, just finish and it will darken over time, easy off oven cleaner for a deep red color, dye stains

[@georgeshultz2642]

Heat the iron nitrate

[@Blaserman]

Which they were cap lock

[@redlemur6073]

Check e mail

[@user-bs4lj2to5e]

i need insta