LATHE CHUCKS 101 PART 2, R8 COLLETS, HOLDING BETWEEN CENTERS, LATHE DOGS AND DRIVE PLATES

Second part of a series of videos that describe lathe work holding devices more specifically this video looks at R8 collets and holding parts between centers using a lathe dog and drive plate. As for all Thatlazymachinist videos, this video is aimed at the novice machinist who wishes to develop proper basic work skills. In this video we look at different work holding accessories used on lathes and what would motivate us to choose one over the other. This video is part of a free online machine shop course accessible to everyone on my webpage THATLAZYMACHINIST.COM . No sign up, no subscription and no hassle, it's all free and always will be. As for all of my machine shop videos, this video is specifically produced for novice machinists. Thanks for understanding that I am a professional toolmaker and teacher but I am not a professional video producer (and it shows). I produce these videos for fun as a little retirement project that lets me give back a little of what was passed on to me by so many amazing trades people, most of whom, sadly, are no longer with us. Marc L'Ecuyer Thatlazymachinist.com
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[@davidmoore5021]

What is the difference between a ER collet and a 5c collet? Thank you for taking the time and effort making this videos.

[@THATLAZYMACHINIST]

Hi David! er collets are what I call double tapered collets. They can be used on the lathe but they are more commonly used on the mill to clamp tools in tool holders. 5C collets have a taper that is not self locking since there is no practical way of getting them out if they get stuck other than hitting them from behind. ER collets have a self locking taper that applies a lot more force on what it is holding but needs a way of cracking the taper loose when you want to remove what it is holding. The double taper permits this since the short not self locking taper permits to push the collet into the tightening nut into witch it clips. Once clipped in you must insert the tool or part that you wish to hold. Once the part is inserted it is no longer possible to un clip the collet from the tightening ring so that assembly will act as a puller when comes the time to remove the collet from the main body self locking taper of the collet holder. It is crucial to follow the proper assembly order or it will be impossible to remove the tool without damaging the taper. In short they are much more complex but hold part with much more strength. I hope this is understandable? If not let me know and I will give it another try, Marc

[@noelhenderson700]

They also hold a wider range of size per collet so you don't have to be quite so accurate with your diameters, (although you should be anyway). I built a ER32 collet chuck for my lathe. The set came with an R8 shank.

[@davidmoore5021]

Thank you for your response.

[@marceloiannini8199]

Also, each ER collet have much more clamping range than 5C: while these are in the .004", ER goes a full milimeter (about .40") in range for each collet. A metric set goes by the millimeter. They are shorter and have no models with internal threads. So a set of ER costs much less than a 5c set. In fact, I´m buying the chinese stuff (good enough for my kind of un-precision work) and been quite satisfied with full sets that cost less than 50 bucks. That may be the price of a single 5c collet!

[@istvangaspar8257]

Thousand thanks Marc. You are still the greatest.

[@Shyam1472]

Very good tips

[@JimmysCanal]

Great video, as always! Thanks for sharing! Take care, my friend Dimitris

[@johnc4352]

Hello Marc. A little trick I use when working between centers on a short piece where you can't fit a drive dog, use a counter sink cutter in your chuck, it fits into your work piece center hole, tighten up your tail stock and it bites the work enough to drive it.

[@EVguru]

What you're describing is a crude form of face driver. You often see the telltale radial marks on the ends of motor shafts in particular. Frank Ford has an example of a shop built face driver on his frets.com website. Commercial versions are made by Riten and Bruckner amoungst others.

[@ClownWhisper]

You just taught me something unintentionally in part of this video without even attempting to teach it I mean a simple no-brainer thing I watched you put a little split ring on a piece of stock that you had narrowed on one side. when you were showing turning between centers and I never even dreamed about doing such a thing instead of gone through the painstaking process of making an entire new dog to fit the mandrel that I didn't have the proper size dog for what a simple simple ridiculously simple thing what an idiot I feel like right now LOL

[@shinli1961]

Dear Marc, thank you very much Lesson: 57

[@EVguru]

Hi Marc It's nice to hear someone correctly refer to the a centre used in the lathe spindle as a live centre, rather than the common USA practice of calling it a dead centre. Fundamentally, as you say, the workpiece revolves around a dead centre and revolves with a live centre. Some old books I're read went further and said that a live centre had to be driven and if it was not, was a just 'running' or 'bearing' centre. I tend to use the term running centre. Traditionally, live centres were unhardened and you'd take a skim cut before starting work to achive the best concentricity your lathe spindle was capable of. It now seems to be quite difficult to find live centres. Dead centres give the best concentricity and repeatability and my cylindrical grinder uses dead centres at both ends for that reason. A bearing centre in the tailstock will almost always have some run-out. Many out there are pretty poor and really only suiltable as support for longer work and not for centering it accurately.

[@THATLAZYMACHINIST]

Thanks Paul for the great input! Marc

[@BMWDCK75]

You did not lie you just misestimated ( is that a word) the time it would take. Good info thank you.

[@ClipperDays]

I would like to use 5C collets on my South Bend. But to use 5C would mean getting a collet chuck which is way outside my current budget. I have a set of 3C which covers most of my work.

[@lenchodirker710]

Thanks Marc ! I particularly like your discussion about collets. Do the spring type ER collets have a wider gripping range than 5C ? I find my 5C selection quite restricting.

[@marceloiannini8199]

I bought a new chuck in one larger size than my lathe´s original (8" vs original 6") so that I could hold properly larger parts. However, I found out that not always bigger is better: it has much more intertia (from it´s 2.5x more weight) and if not carefully checked, it can hit my carriage/cross-slide. And truly, most jobs I do as a home hobby machinist are in the under 1/2" sizes. I think regret that I did not buy the original 6" or even an 5" size instead of the 8". I could always mount the original 4-jaw chuck, which is 8", since I rarely need it´s larger capacity. I was pretty lucky (or the brazilian manufacturer Union Americana is indeed very, very good!) as this 8" chuck has amazing low run-out number on it´s full clamping range and over the whole length of my lathe ways. This chuck impresses me with it´s finish and quality.

[@kgdietz]

5C, C5, I knew what you meant. Whenever I start watching one of your videos my wife always asks, is that the guy with the song about the monkey? Thank you for what you do, sir!

[@THATLAZYMACHINIST]

Thanks Ken! I will let my brother know that his composition and singing is "appreciated". It's hard to believe that he is a very good GP. Here is a link to the full version of the little monkey song, enjoy!!! kzbin.info/www/bejne/mZrdk5uql9Kpa6s

[@Steve_Just_Steve]

Did you mention face plates and I missed it? My favorite chuck is my Jacobs Rubberfelx because you can go from 1/8" all the way to 1.25" with only 12 collets. Second only to the 4 jaw. I never use my 3 jaw but never have to do production work either. Thanks for the vid =)

[@THATLAZYMACHINIST]

Hi Steve! I never mentioned face plates since I plan someday to produce a series of videos about fixturing and face plates will be included. Thanks for watching and for taking the time to write, Marc

[@MrFlashx1]

Another video with great information thank you for that...PS the letter "t" in the word often is silent it's pronounced offen

[@noelhenderson700]

Depends on where you're from I guess.

[@MrFlashx1]

Noel Henderson yes if you're from anywhere that people speak English

[@alasdairhamilton1574]

Hi, why don’t you use a block of wood to protect the lathe when you change the chuck, in case you drop it onto the ways😨 Keep safe best regards Alasdair

[@MrJugsstein]

😃