The BEST 4 Axis Desktop CNC Machine?

[@taow]

I am quite excited about this new machine, the level of automation achieved using the automatic tool changer, wireless touch probe and rotary 4th axis make complex parts that would usually require multiple setups and manual operations so much quicker and easier. Even if you have no interest in buying a machine like this, I think it is fascinating to see the current state of the art hobby desktop CNC machines. If you are interested in the machine it is now available from Makera with a 2 week lead time here: www.makera.com/products/carvera?sca_ref=4180899.U68BiZuo02 (purchasing through this link will give me a small kickback to help support this channel and these projects) I hope you enjoy some of the projects I made with this machine in this video!

[@Festivejelly]

Id be excited too if I got a free CNC machine.

[@PiefacePete46]

@@Festivejelly : Create a KZbin channel with enough good quality content to be noticed by a sponsor, and who knows what might come your way. However, the videos do not make themselves, they are the result of many hours of WORK! One thing you can be sure of: posting 'One-liner' negative comments is not going to convince anybody to give you anything.

[@FiglioBastardo]

​@@PiefacePete46exactly. On a side note it's always so tiresome reading comments that are casting shade and jealousy.

[@FiglioBastardo]

I look forward to your future content good sir!

[@LeisureLuke]

Just ordered mine!!! Thanks for the great overview and video. I know it'll be a huge help as I get it fired up 🥳Happy milling!

[@Leo99929]

That cutters not dead, you can dissolve the aluminium with caustic soda (Sodium hydroxide). Congrats on the new machine, looks awesome!

[@taow]

Thanks! I did actually manage to pick off the gummed up aluminium and the edged are chipped unfortunately :(

[@jesperwall839]

@@taowYou can use ethanol as a coolant when working with aluminum. It prevents the clogging 👍

[@glass1258]

@@jesperwall839great way to light the mill on fire .

[@jesperwall839]

@@glass1258 Why? It’s used everyday all over the world in the industry as it’s the only way to get the aluminum not to stick.

[@glass1258]

@@jesperwall839 it’s just not practical for hobby machining in your bedroom or home. The endmill is going to spin up a bunch of mist and you’ll be sitting in a room full of alcohol vapor plus it’s a fire hazard

[@michaeljanzen4964]

Im a CNC Machinist and working daily on Hermle Machines. You did a pretty good job and i would love to have this at home! Looks very nice

[@Leo99929]

If the undersize holes are a spring pass issue then the dimension at the top of the hole will be closer to target than the bottom of the hole. You can correct for this with a spring pass, or use a cutter with a stiffer aspect ratio (larger diameter and/or shorter). Also your external dimensions would be oversize by a similar amount because the same mechanism applies to internal and external features.

[@HandyDan]

This is a great explanation, spring passes help a lot on ID and I also wanted to add that ID holes need a slower feedrate, there is more cutter contact on an ID hole than on a straight cut. This does put a larger chip load on the tool, just as inside corners where the tool is loaded more.

[@HowdyYT]

The necklace gift was so on point lol. The girlfriend hated the 3d printer until I started making her trinkets

[@carbide1]

I have noticed that most of the guys running hobby-type milling machines always have the cutter stuck out too far, keeping the tool's length as short as possible, this will stop deflection. Another good tip is always to climb mill the part, the cutter will last longer, and when milling pockets it will stop the cutter from undercutting the corners through deflection. By the way, I'm an engineer.

[@DemoniqueTrance]

Could you explain what climb milling means?

[@C3DPropShop]

How do you know someone's an engineer? Don't worry, he'll tell you.

[@jessimms3316]

If you're an engineer, this means you solve practical problems.

[@wobblysauce]

That looks like a bunch of fun... and then working out what you want to do with it is the challenge.

[@ethanmye-rs]

Cool machine! Would be nice to see the static spindle deflection - you can measure this by putting a endmill in the spindle at a typical stick out, then pulling with a known force and measuring the deflection. This will get you a deflection number that you can compare with other machines. For measuring accuracy, you really can’t use calipers for less than 0.05mm. A good micrometer will get you accuracy down to 0.01mm. Check your bore measurement technique on a ring gauge or some ball bearings. It’s actually quite hard to measure to 0.01mm by hand. And inside mic would also be helpful for those measurements.

[@StrayHydraBlade]

Perfect video to have a coffee to. Interesting, well put together, peacefull. 👍

[@taow]

Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed :)

[@FiglioBastardo]

I agree although my coffee was accompanied by a wonderful biscotti blunt. 😂

[@zackaryj19]

Excellent video! I'm excited to see more carvera content in the future!

[@FiglioBastardo]

I really enjoyed this video. You've gotta new subscriber for what it's worth!

[@HandyDan]

This is an amazing little machine and with all of the features, $4799 is not bad. Any small desktop with a tool changer is a GAME changer! Looking forward to more videos on this machine.

[@jackorlove4055]

In my opinion, the culprit is one or a combination of three things: dull cutter, or not using the correct style of cutter, not enough horse power in your machine so the cutter isn't able to be pushed where it needs to be, and the properties of the metal itself during machining operations. Aluminum is notorious for gumming up when it gets too hot, this is due to the low melting point of aluminum, the chips will begin to fuse with the cutting edge, this is especially a problem when using a HSS cutter, which is what you appear to be using. You could try switching to a VERY sharp carbide end mill which is much harder and works better at higher temperatures, so chips fusing to the cutting edge isn't as big a problem. Aluminum also undergoes a lot of thermal expansion-- virtually every soft metal you might work with loves to absorb heat, aluminum can get piping hot in a matter of seconds, so you have to manage heat via symmetrical machining, coolant, making sure your cutter is always super sharp and preferably very hard. But, if you're using HSS because it's all you got, the best recommendation or trick I can offer up is to spray a tiny little bit of WD-40 onto your part, or area that's being machined-- that, or keep it flooded with coolant. The aluminum won't gum up and it will cut like butter with WD-40 though. Give it a spin sometime. Works for drilling or sawing aluminum as well ;) Either way, awesome set up man.

[@PiefacePete46]

Another nicely paced, informative video thanks. Like you, I was unsure of the value of the laser/mill combination. After I saw indexing marks and numbers being laser-etched onto an anodised aluminium collar for a lathe cross-feed handle, I figured it does have merit. The machine appears to have enough 'plus' points to earn its place in the market.

[@THusbands]

You could probably add the 4 axis parts into a magntic rotary tumbler to knock off the pass ridges and give a uniform finish. Great product and video!

[@FiglioBastardo]

On aluminum or brass?

[@Convolutedtubules]

For better finish try increasing spindle speed and lowering feed. Rough out half of the workpiece, finish the main surface, then rough and finish the rest. Use very sharp polished carbide EMs. Minimize tool length or stickout.

[@wadeonwheels]

Ok now that is awesome! From a person that programs and operates 3 axis lathe and 5 axis mills for GM performance and racing. This is so cool. Definitely just got my attention. A lot of cool features.

[@RB-yq7qv]

Another great review. This machine is the answers to modeling very small parts at true scale. As 99% of my modeling is aluminum and brass mixers, will allow more moving details to be used.

[@rustycrustytriesstuff]

Cool machine! Running your cutters as short as possible is probably one of the best things you can do to improve surface finishes. Some projects won’t permit short tooling but it can make a huge difference, especially on small diameter tool.

[@larrykostopulos1332]

Excellent review on this machine. Precise and covering aspects of use that matter to users. Definitely a company to watch especially with the co-opted laser module. Future is bright for the manufacturer with pricing as reasonable as this. Bravo, great work.

[@jackrichards1863]

Well this is so amazing I think you both inspired me to consider the possibility and to shy away from something so technical. It IS such an interesting tool as you said at the beginning and I did sit through the whole video which is surprising to me for a start.

[@spudnickuk]

You have shown a delightful machine I would love it if you could share your Mando head figure 4 axis cam code As I have a 4 axis and have no idea how to do the cam for it

[@Myrkanth]

4k is a steal for this little machine!

[@jimkibler786]

Less tool stick-out will certainly improve performance.

[@samus4799]

The machinery’s handbook has very handy charts for choosing optimal feed&speed for different materials. Can’t recommend it enough, even if this little machine can’t handle a lot of what’s out there.

[@ChuckThree]

😮 omg a second video in as many months… it wasn’t a fluke!

[@taow]

Might even get a 3rd if you're lucky!

[@ChuckThree]

@@taow I’ll believe it when I see it, lol

[@lore2486]

Awesome Review! we are very happy with our demo unit, if anyone wants to come play with it we have it at our warehouse in South Florida and will bring it to the upcoming East coast Rep Rap festival in Bel Air Maryland sept 30-oct1st.

[@dcallan812]

Looks like its not bad quality for the price. 👍👍

[@jurj4108]

Thee best and unintentionally funny part of the video (for a german speaker) was 14:30 when you showed the milling of that piece of brass whilst saying "okay, that's enough messing around" It's real funny because the german word for brass is: Messing!! :D Really weird coincidence, haha. Other than that, great video. It's a really interesting little machine.

[@Khemikal_X]

Use a ball nose with a short flute and long shank. I think tools today has engraving router bits with tip radius that might work well for this machine, but I've always used double flute balls for surface finish

[@ChargedPulsar]

This is amazing information, thank you very much for the effort!

[@luithefly13]

Brilliant video! Do you think it would be possible for you to do a tutorial on how you made the tool path for the 4th axis part? Or even just post the real time footage of you generating the tool path instead of speeding it up. You seem to have a good grasp of it and I think it would be extremely helpful for carvera owners, especially those that are CNC beginners looking to make the most out of their machine!

[@taow]

Thanks! I've got some more 4th axis parts that I need to make soon so I will definitely consider it yeah

[@AlwaysCensored-xp1be]

A nice little machine. I gave been looking for one that does brass.

[@edwardstephens936]

Harvey tool has some really good end mills for this kind of machining...

[@DamianVanWyk-sy4xo]

Amazing work on the 4th axis. Is it possible to make a tutorial on the 4th axis using Fusion 360. Would love to see how to manufacture is through Fusion 360.

[@kevinspacey5325]

Yeah you need to add an air cooling line to that machine. Maybe even an oil mist system for aluminum.

[@Bobby11]

Haha, so i started watching because of the title, but recognized the voice and realised who it was 🤙🤙

[@TimeeJustin]

I would love to get a machine like this. I’m going to try and convince my boss to get one haha. Can’t wait to see what you do with it.

[@nicklloyd-jones]

Try using an aluminium alloy that has been heat treated to a T6 condition. Softer conditions often lead to tool clogging.

[@Todestelzer]

You should mention that you have to re insert the removed parts of the chuck in the same spot. Otherwise you can get higher runout. Normally the parts of the chuck have marks and the chuck has corresponding marks.

[@meanman6992]

Interested, just wish it had a more powerful motor so it was more capable of cutting steel without ridiculously small depth cuts

[@GodzillaGoesGaga]

Great video. How noisy is the machine one working metal. Would it be compared to a vacuum cleaner kind of noise ?

[@clintyoung8255]

I hope she liked your apology gift, bruh. Well done, by the way. I liked the video, and I'm sharing it with my group, too. Maybe we will join together to buy one.

[@rescobar8572]

SUBSCRIBED!!! I have so many apology gifts to make 😩... Excellent work and video!! New subscriber here for sure. 👍

[@featherstonehobbies]

Would this machine be able cut stainless ond titanium great video by the way

[@justalex787]

Wow, this is a sturdy mashine for your very Desktop at home, I am glad to see that the hobby market is still going strong. But as a machinist myself, for this Price id instead go with a Samurai CNC or Build my own

[@taow]

Yeah the Samurai does look very interesting I agree

[@DT-pp1bi]

Thanks mate. Much appreciated

[@metallicaandchimaira]

Can you make a tutorial on how to program something on the 4th axis? I can find any video anywhere on it.

[@MechanicalAdvantage]

Cool video. One slight correction. The true 4th axis troolpaths were never free in Fusion 360. They were available in preview form, but when a user enabled the toolpath in previews ,it was shown that when released it would go into the machining extension.

[@taow]

Thanks, that makes a bit more sense :)

[@paradiselost9946]

somewhere i still have the original "deskproto" download... unlimited for the first month after install. so ran a machine for a year by re-installing the OS every month, lol... they learned! last time i checked they now throw a chunk of "dead" into the toolpath.... until you pay. though it wasnt too expensive, but yeah, my mill has been out of service for a long time as well...

[@jeroenvde]

Not shure but i think your machining direction should be invers so the bit cuts when your axis is moving... Now the bit runs in the same direction as as your axis movement which results in a "chipped" surface.

[@jobkneppers]

Taow, for cutting aluminium you need lubrication... Otherwise, as you experienced your tool get's gummed up with aluminium. You can clean them by soaking in a strong base solution like sink cleaner. Thank you for sharing, nice maxhine! Best, Job

[@benlanning8795]

if you want a nicer finish and better accuracy hold your endmills and basically any other tool further in the spindle so that you get less chatter

[@markjob6354]

*I am fascinated with the Carvera machine. I have been long following its development since it began on Kickstarter. However, I'm not interested at all in making pretty little trinkets on this CNC - I want to make real aluminium high tensile parts for a dream electric scooter project I've been planning for the past three years. I would like to see someone actually make some fully utilitarian device entirely on the Carvera CNC machine. I'm more interested in the "CNC" and less so in the "Carvera" of this intriguing machine's function.*

[@kevinbaxter1571]

check your bit size if you get repeatable errors

[@dingdongsyo]

The website doesn't say, what is the max length of the 4-axis add-on? Like how long can a piece of barstock be surfaced?

[@mdharrisuiuc]

Thanks for posting this video, none of the other reviews really do much other than the included demos. I've been trying to figure out if this can cut Al on the 4th axis; you answered that in the first seconds of the video. You then went on to discuss possibilities that I hadn't even considered. How has reliability and maintenance been?

[@taow]

Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed. The reliability has been fantastic, used it consistently for a few months now and nothing has gone wrong yet. As for maintenance it was something I was meant to include in the video but forgot, it would be nice if Makera released a maintenance guide (greasing the ballscrews and linear bearings ect) so far I've not done anything yet.

[@nicholascarssow4800]

do you need the paid version of fusion to use the multi tool feature?

[@autoxinvr]

Obviously it would have to run slower but, could this handle cutting Titanium and Steel?

[@dvasjkj4374]

what is spindel power? Looks very underpowered.

[@ChadGrays]

You said air is an option... is that air is built in you just do not have an air compressor? Or you have to pay for another module to add air?

[@bryanst.martin7134]

Nice Bell clapper!

[@articn0va]

Would you recommend this as a first CNC? Also what is the noise like, would you be able to get away with using it in an apartment?

[@taow]

I think this would be good first CNC yeah, the 4th axis programming and setup is a little more complex than the 3 axis stuff so start off with that first if you do pick one up. I use it in an apartment and you can get away with it, its obviously not silent but not too much louder than vacuum cleaning or running a washing machine.

[@edwardstephens936]

To get better finishes, try to use as short of an end mill as possible.

[@WheatMillington]

Did you buy the machine or did they give it to you?

[@eitantal726]

Simultaneous 4-axis? or indexed? It looks indexed to me

[@mishgunplay6783]

Clean passes are better with down milling.

[@sempertard]

Hey TAOW, what is the name of the pencil looking tool you used to measure the hole diameter @ 13:52? Do you find it very useful? Thanks.

[@MASI_forging]

Great work. 👏👏

[@T0tenkampf]

Wow, lots of nice features. Do you know if the laser may be upgraded to one of the more powerful aftermarket types like Jtech or OPT Lasers? Can the probe do a higher resolution 3D scanning function? I would like to digitize some of my hand carved pieces but I can strangely obtuse answers from every mfg that I ask the question to. This would be perfect for my custom guitar part prototypes that don't need to be made from a ferrous material.

[@taow]

I am not sure about the laser upgrade, it would depend on if the power supply can handle more power, and it would have to fit the fairly compact form factor of the machine. You can adjust the spacing of the probe points but the tip is about 2mm and would not be accurate for steep curves or really fine details! Glad you enjoyed!

[@Just-Make]

Hi, I’m interested in this machine, and wanted to ask what is the true work volume for 3 and 4 axis… the site says 36cm (Y) x 24cm (x) x 14cm (z) for the 3 axis. And 9.2cm (D) and 24cm (L) for the 4th axis. Wanted to ask if this is what you experienced or is it much smaller than those numbers because for example the 36cm would mean collision with ATC?

[@vism_xyz]

Good job!

[@benji6b]

Great video, thank you very much. I am considering buying it. I have a question for you, do I need to learn Fusion 360 or can I keep using Solidworks for designing my products?

[@taow]

Thanks! You don't need to completely re-learn how to design parts in fusion (although it is quite similar to solidworks in a lot of ways, just not quite as good unfortunately). You can still design parts in SW then import them into another CAM software to generate the toolpaths. Fusion is good for making toolpaths for engineering parts, V-carve is good for making signs and relief carvings ect, so far both are supported on the carvera. Would definitely recommend picking one up!

[@sinformant]

Id love to have one of those. But that is way out of my price range. I don't know when id ever had that kind of disposable income.

[@TAH1712]

Brilliant!

[@lozovoymax1941]

Tool changer is a killer. Laser can be useful for particular PCB manufacturing process step . You can engrave solder mask with it. That could be used for solder pads revealing and PCB "silkscreening" with laser engraver. But that's useful only if you planning to put solder mask on your DIY PCB.

[@jjjbossjjj]

Would you consider a pocket nc 2 as well? Why or why not? Thanks!

[@taow]

I have looked at the pocket NC machine also, having a 5th axis would be awesome but the working volume is a lot smaller and there is no tool changer (which is so good on this machine), meaning that most parts will require quite a few manual tool changes. Just depends what you are wanting a machine for which one is more appropriate, but I would say that this machine is more versatile.

[@born2keks999]

great video but how the fuck did they connect the z-axis to the x-axis with that cover in between?

[@erikm9768]

200W spindle seem very very tiny... i dont understand how thats enough to cut steel

[@FlankCobra]

I dunno if a 6000 $ (as of now) machine still can be called hobby.

[@womacko]

There is a new machine called KUBUS Pro, from Switzerland. Their price is very competetitive, but has not automatic toolchanger :( Theirs is made more solid and has a better part finish.

[@taow]

Thanks I'll check it out, always nice to see new machines being produced

[@womacko]

@@taow the Carvera Air is even more interesting, if you're tight on budget, which most people are. 😁

[@taow]

@@womacko haha I agree, check out the video I just uploaded on it :)

[@womacko]

@@taow wow totally oversaw that 😂 Will take my time to watch it later! Great video!

[@THEAPRILFOOL-1983]

Nice

[@tangodown2721]

I mean you could get a pm-30 and convert to cnc and have a waaaaayyy more capable mill for that price. Not sure 4th axis is really mind blowing.

[@TheMark9013]

Would be nice if it was more powerful woukd like to work with harder metals

[@rogerfroud300]

Interesting. I'm not sure why you supported the end of the stock, I really wouldn't bother doing that unless it's a really long part where the overhang would cause deflection issues.

[@dubarrylouis]

Is there a code for solid works?

[@dubarrylouis]

Great video by the way!

[@perw12345]

I have no experience with this machine, nor do I intend to buy one, but the simple fact that they chose linear rails over linear rods puts it miles ahead of at least half of the other machines in this class.

[@CAMER_21]

smooth

[@true_believer72]

so what does a machine like this run you

[@Dezanova]

Can I be one of your friends. That's awesome

[@FiglioBastardo]

😂 Right?!

[@Festivejelly]

Hang on is this a sponsored video? You didnt mention it. Did you buy this machine or was it provided to you?

[@UncleKennysPlace]

Nice machine, certainly may be "hobby grade", but certainly isn't "hobby priced".

[@JarppaGuru]

5:40 well that easy it was M6. its text file ctrl+f M6 change tool number. if machine accept sin cos tan sqrt while end goto then not even need use cam LOL makro programming is fun

[@ryanmast8421]

Calipers for measuring inner circles are just not accurate. Your .1 was 100% wrong measuring tool, not the machine. Hole gauge would be a little more accurate. I've run into this measuring problem myself before I figured out my mistake and literally did that DiCaprio pointing at the TV meme when I saw you do it too lol.

[@tempestblack2771]

Oooooo... Get new 3d printer, or save up for this?

[@ahole5407]

Want to make some money? I need a gear cut. It's a combination of helical and spur with two diameters. Small part about an inch and a half long with diameters of 1/2" and 3/4"

[@godfreypoon5148]

"Makera" sounds like "make error". That is all. Thank you.

[@carbide1968]

do yourself a favor and spray wd-40 on the tool also. you will love the new finish.

[@augaureliusserious]

Chaaaamfers!!!!!!

[@erikm9768]

You got it for free? Jesus i need to start a youtube channel...

[@KnightsWithoutATable]

Hobby grade? Mate, it's $5k USD. You did say top of the line, but to put that into perspective, you can set yourself up with a gaming PC rig that is top of the line for that cash. If you are building it yourself, you can go pretty high end or pay for nice peripherals or add in a good monitor, desk, and chair. This would be for somebody that was pretty damn serious about wanting to use it.

[@taow]

Yeah it is a very high end machine, the only reason I say hobby grade is that it is clearly not designed to be an industrial machine

[@HowdyYT]

It’s simply an expensive hobby

[@KnightsWithoutATable]

@@HowdyYT makes Warhammer 40k miniatures look cheap.

[@WheatMillington]

You criticise the use of "hobby grade" by comparing it with.... a hobby (gaming PC).

[@KnightsWithoutATable]

​@@WheatMillington I wasn't talking about hobby grade gamming PC. I was talking about a top of the line gamming PC. That would be what the most the top 1% would put into the hobby into their entire machine. Most PC gamers spend closer to 0.8k to 1.2k USD on their machine. 2k USD can build a machine that will play every game out now and in the next year at max setting for the next year. These prices don't include the desk, peripherals, or monitor, but we are comparing a CNC lathe to a gaming computer, not a workshop to a full gaming and livestreaming studio setup. The price is double what a PC gaming hobby would be. And before you claim a gaming hobby would still have to buy games, the CNC lathe still needs tooling and material to process.