The Best Bottom Bracket for every Bike - The End.

You really want to know what the best Bottom Bracket Standard is? And the best brand of bottom bracket bearing to use in each application? Here it is. The definitive answer to that question.
Featured:
Square Taper
ISIS
Octolink
Hollowtech II
GXP
DUB
BB30
PF30
BB386evo
T47 and T47i
BSA
Itallian
BB90
BB89
BB92
Is Chris King the best?

[@paullinnitt5450]

Literally the madness that is the international bike industry in one video.

[@fabiopunk1661]

Right. Everyone tries to convince us they have found the ultimate solution

[@DR_1_1]

It's like those wide tyres that are supposed to be faster. Suddenly everyone has to buy new tyres! If you read the fine print they are... slower, unless inflated at the same pressure! Not sure what would happen to 35-45mm at 100 psi!?

[@sepg5084]

I never had a problem with bottom brackets

[@swagedelic]

Square taper all the way.

[@jono1457-qd9ft]

How the heck are mechanics supposed to keep up with all these changes? If the mechanics are expected to go on a training course every time a new component is introduced, how are the general public going to be served with reliable, affordable equipment?

[@robdogracing]

This is hands down the best bb summary on KZbin. Thanks for sharing!

[@Mapdec]

Wow, thanks!🙏

[@kovie9162]

I have no idea what specific BB standard my bike uses, but it has a 20+ year old Ti road frame with a threaded BB into which I installed a square taper sealed cartridge Campy BB that cost under $20 in 2003 and has been absolutely perfect and is still smooth as can be. I mostly ride on paved roads but occasionally ride over dirt, grass, gravel and roads that are in horrible condition. Works for me.

[@neilwheel]

B S C = British Standard Cycle. B S A = Birmingham Small Arms.

[@11robotics]

B S C = no Peaky Blinders B S A = plenty of Peaky Blinders

[@deepindercheema4917]

Big Swifty & Associates. @@11robotics

[@deepindercheema4917]

@@sjanzeir No such thing as a bErmingham.

[@peppermintpig974]

And the forgettable BCA = Bicycle Corporation of America. BCA made various low end bikes in the 80s/90s, but some had acceptable spec like full True Temper frames.

[@cosinus_square]

4 years on my SKF square taper bottom bracket and counting. Most of my square taper bb's have lasted way longer than bb cups. Best looking cranks as well.

[@escgoogle3865]

Only 4 years try 20+ on my fair weather lots of chrome accents bike.

[@cosinus_square]

@@escgoogle3865 The SKF bb is on my commuter, ridden 5 days a week in all weather for 4 years. No downtime, no adjustments required, just clean and ride, like it should be. It comes with a 10 year warranty as well, the audacity, lol.

[@peterwillson1355]

​@escgoogle3865 it's time riding the bike that is meaningful. Storage time doesn't count. No bottom bracket could last 120,000 miles.

[@B_COOPER]

⁠@@peterwillson1355definitely not 120k miles…. But a loose ball bearing bb will go for many many years of daily riding so long as you keep up with maintenance, but could say that about everything lol

[@Dr.Schlitz]

Goody for you, Gramps. How are those canti brakes holding up?

[@velocity324]

The press fit bbs where the two halves of the bb thread into each other and don't require a press are great. I installed them easily myself and been running them for years with no issues.

[@user-cx2bk6pm2f]

Exceptionally educational and sensible. This is 100% on target.

[@x3631]

clear and very easy to understand in this ever confusing topic... thank you

[@treyquattro]

good stuff, short and punchy. I'm happy with my PF86 so far, but that's mainly because I'm very happy with my bike.

[@moobaz8675]

That was exhausting! There's a reason I like steel and ti. Its proper engineering with simple solutions. 👍

[@bicyclist2]

I started with the sealed cartridge square taper bottom brackets back in the early 90's. After the introduction of the press fits, I got a little lost on all the new sizing and standards. I've never owned or ridden any of these new bottom bracket standards. This is very helpful. Great explanations. Thank you.

[@Mapdec]

Likewise. I remember the big faff with ISIS and Octolink, and then Holowtech was literally a year later and everyone went nuts.

[@jamlee344]

This channel is brilliant! Straight to the point with great information. Keep it up guys! 👍

[@Mapdec]

Thank you.

[@markdundon9922]

A brilliant video, as a home DIY mechanic I have spent many hours researching up the different BB standards over the years. This is a great summary thank you. I have Shimano BB89 ultegra version on my Canyon and surprisingly I got about 16,000km on it before the bearings went on the NDS cup. I've just replaced it with exactly the same BB. Very happy with that level of longevity and the cost is very good.

[@peterwillson1355]

10,000 miles is a good innings for a modern bb?!?!😂

[@cycobikes]

@@peterwillson1355 My Canyon Ultimate is still on the original BB86 BB with just under 30,000km on it. I regularly take the cranks off and check , clean and regrease everything and am amazed it still is as smooth as the day it came. My nephew is running a DUB on his Ultimate and they don't even last a year before needing changed.

[@Kermitonwheels]

Wow. What an incredible summary!

[@markg7834]

Ten years of perfect service from the Praxis BB30 to Shimano 24mm adaptor. Using this setup in a 2013-14 Felt Z4 carbon bike I bought new. The original BB30 bearings lasted 100 miles before creaking. I now have over 13,000 miles on the Felt with the Praxis conversion kit. Quality kit!

[@redauwg911]

thank you for making these educational videos

[@robertkoleczko3987]

As a mechanic, good video! And your Fazit fits😁‼️ Pressfit isn't as bad, like a lot of people think. The first year of Pressfit, in my workshop, I hated this " plastic toy story" stuff! Since 2017 I use Shimano press fit, on my actual aluminum DH Frame, and I never had Saint cranks, running that smooth and easy. But for almost 80 to 90 % of all bike frames, BSA is the best and most proper way, solution. Clean Thread, tightening brackets, Crankshaft and cranks mounting. Ready to go. The only, a bit negative thing about Hollow tech II Shimano bearings, they have a bit less long life durability qualities.....

[@Beinhartwie1chopper]

Fazit= Conclusion Robert

[@RICHARD.WRIGHT1]

YOU HAVE EXCELLED in this video, everything I could have said on this subject you've said for me. Except for one thing, you said it in a kind manner, I personally would have disgraced many frame manufacturers, who for years have taken us the bike shops, and punters literally for a ride. WHAT GOES AROUND COMES AROUND sooner or later. Practicallity and functionallity will always beat high end pointless designs which aim to make manufacturers rich! Seriously, do bike brands really believe there are people out there that have no engineering or mechanical background, and do they think we are all so stupid? Two simple bearings in a round hole, how the F can anyone get it wrong? Yet all these great Engineering University grads have done so for years, how? by simply saving money and spending less on quality! LONG LIVE THE BSA THREADED BB! Cheers rant over. Mapdec......Nice one mate!!!😉

[@Mapdec]

🙏

[@madplanet3351]

I've crippled bottom brackets until I stuck a hambini in my s works. Never looked back. Never changed bearings either. Silent fast spinning setup.

[@Mapdec]

Good OSBB problem solver.

[@thebikethebody]

great video, beatifully concise!

[@tonyhanemaayer6407]

Excellent video, well done and thanks.

[@matejzima8210]

Today I learned something. Thank you.

[@lfoster7601]

Both Italian and English square taper BBs here (Oh the shame...). The Italian threaded one in my C olnago Super Piu has been in since 2005, with a brief removal in 2012 when the bike was refurbed. Never needed to be retightened (though admittedly the one on my Ti Colnago CT2 did once unscrew on a ride...). It replaced an Italian thread BB that had been in since 1994, but upgrading to REcord needed a new BB due the low profile chainset. I do agree, the English thread BBs are all rock solid. ANd they're all Square Taper, and they all work perfectly.

[@gpatton1]

Amazing content. You're the best cycling channel on KZbin no question

[@Mapdec]

Wow. 😮. Thanks.

[@scottwatson7844]

Great explanation re press fit. I keep watching reviews lately where everyone seems to prefer threaded nowadays but Ive got press fit in my Defy. Have had the bike six years and get the bike serviced regularly and never had an issue with press fit.

[@Mapdec]

Reviewers just think that’s what people want. In reality, people want quiet and light bikes, the method to achieve that is down to the designer, factory and mechanic working well.

[@davetbassbos]

I'm a BMXer trying to understand road bikes, very clear explanation of the history of all these road bike standards, thanks!

[@Mapdec]

Glad to help! BMX BBs are so much easier.

[@davetbassbos]

@@Mapdec Yeah, I think there were a few competing standards for BMX freestyle when I started 15 years ago, but Mid BB (press fit into steel frame) has been the only one for a while, and can be installed with a rubber mallet and 2X4, lol! Cheers!

[@Vandenbos717]

What a great video absolutely something to favorite. I’m absolutely a fan of bb386’s with the wheels mfg bb’s.

[@AndyMcClements]

Thanks for this. Coming back to cycling after a 2+ decade interval, I'm in a state of bemusement over the supposed 'development' of so many bike components that have changed. For my current build, I'm now even more convinced of the superiority of BSA-threaded, square-taper, traditional bottom brackets !

[@Mapdec]

Umm. Heavy, needs a lot of tools, can round out, cease on, needs a lot of size options for chain line,

[@AndyMcClements]

I've had the tools for years TBH that's one reason I'm sticking with the old tech, and I don't recall ever having major difficulties with it. Unlike the cheese lockrings etc on later sealed units I've touched. @@Mapdec

[@sempi8159]

Agreed, weight doesn't matter and they last forever! And they have the best looking cranks

[@geroutathat]

I use square taper, BSA thread bottom brackets. There is no getting around the fact that you can round them, you can get the crank part seized on etc. however, they are 15 bucks for a whole one, easy to take out, easy to lube, and you can just buy bearings if you want, don't need to replace the whole thing. But then again I don't get dressed up in lycra and cycle in the middle of the road, I just spend my life using it as a get around.

[@carravagio16]

not sure what bike your looking at but if your building up and want a killer square taper check out the white industries sq bottom bracket and matching cranks. just my 2 cents.

[@kylezick7345]

Worked in shops all through all the bottom bracket standard evolution. Personally, I never had ANY issues with any of the 5 BB30 bikes I owned (still have one!) but of course saw plenty of issues on poorly set up customer bikes. I agree that 386evo isn’t a bad design if a bracket goes in that uses replaceable bearings but I have to say I’m all in on T47. I have two bikes with t47 and they just work so well with the bigger spindle sizes and easy servicing. Also, if you have a T47 68mm shell designed for outboard bearings, you can use the inboard instead and use your old BB30 crank with a narrow dbca. Takes some doing but you can make it work. As for T47 quality, the Wheels Mfg bis nice (you can swap in higher quality bearings) and I just installed a SRAM ceramic T47 on my melee and was quite impressed with the quality. Also uses replaceable bearings (6806).

[@felixjackson2670]

Have a Chris King T47 threaded BB in my Carbon Ibis Hakka gravel bike…couple of years old-almost no resistance on a spin,plus lovely and smooth! Reckon on the press fit 386evo the thread together type system works well.

[@donschloth5785]

I’ve been a dedicated BBINFINATE user for several years now. I have used both press fit and threaded on my bikes. As far as durability and wear I’ve had no problems. I do tend to care for my bikes well above the normal maintenance requirements and standards. I replace bearing seals, clean and lube the BB bearings twice a year. Similar to UK weather I live in the Pacific Northwest and deal with rain, mud, slop, grit and road crud quite a bit so it’s essential to keep up on the preventive maintenance.

[@nelsonglover3963]

Always good to get a refresher on these. People seem to get confused with headsets too (i.e., the difference between EC, IS and ZS headsets, what the numbers mean) might be worth a video. Also I think the audio might be slightly out with the video.

[@vrta]

Too many mic drops 😂

[@bengyantonio2965]

Great video on BB's!! Wow there's a lot of BB standards out there!

[@jeffreyb.1657]

Great video. Thank you. Been happy with my T47 by Hambini or on metal, love my bsa68....most are great at 24mm. I have a high end one in a Ti frame for 10k miles...still smooth as butter.....the frame was perfect so the bearing sort of never had a problem.....frame matters a lot.

[@simonwarmer8777]

BB30 in a sl6 SW Tarmac here, no alignment problems. I’ve got a Hambini race bottombracket NTN bearings for 24 mm Shimano. 0 creaks, stiff and butter smooth.

[@geothunder1971]

Rotors ceramic BB386 is a very good BB! I have over 10K miles on mine, and it still spins smoothly.

[@bayendor]

Well done, cutting straight to the chase. My experience with high end Ti and Carbon frames mirrors your choices, BSA 24mm & BB386Evo respectively.

[@Mapdec]

Thank you so much. Really appreciate the super thanks. 🙏

[@workshopninjathe1st]

As a cytec qualified former shop mechanic who wrenched through the naughties I can confirm - if it’s metal King every time. Even a used king bb is better than the competition, also serviceable and backed by a lifetime warranty. I only have one stupid bb standard in my Parlee Z5 (OG bb30 bearings and c clips) but I fitted it properly and it’s never given me a problem, don’t ride it in the rain and don’t let it get too cold or too hot…

[@justinsheldon5015]

Have used for many years King BB's for HT2 BSA on my mtb's. But found that the servicing without the King injection system a bit of a faff with removing the circlip and rubber seal to wash out and replace and the bearings werent 'that great and to replace meant sending them away and more faff. So went XTR , which were smooth as smooth but the cups arent metal and found the threads started to creak and knurl after about 2k miles. So, binned that and currently running an Uberbike stainless bearing BB. These have Enduro bearings in them, so easy to replace if needed but currently it spins Hambini levels , which would show the alignment is pretty good in my Ibis. As for my Gravel bike being a Planet X Tempest. I found the Truvativ BB;s ( 2 off them ) lasted 6 months each in wet weather. Now running a Praxis jobbie , which also has Enduro bearings , which I didnt know until I took apart and runs pretty smooth . In the end , I looked at easy fix and sensible priced. Rather than King priced ( sold mine on) and higher maintenance.. My worse case senario is now a pair of bearings for 30 odd quid. But I hope that wont be for a while. I binned a Cannondale with a BB30 set up and used the FSA BB converter to BSA and bought Shimano XT chainset to replace the FSA crankset that came with the bike. I guess that going back to the threaded shells , which are more reliable than pressing in etc.

[@5chp123456]

Good clear content

[@huntos83]

Reassuring as the new bike I’ve just built is BB386evo. Went for a Wheels Manufacturing thread together bottom bracket which seems pretty decent

[@nodbag6301]

Very good stuff. Thanks

[@cygnusxl5]

Hi. Another nice informative video again - luckily I have no bikes whatsoever with PF Bottom Brackets. I like the idea of the T47 Bottom Bracket and feel that it will probably undergo further developments/improvements in the future as bike manufacturers have begun to subscribe to that system. While I'm here, have you done a review of the Cinelli Nemo Tig Frameset or are you likely to? The Gravel Version looks like it would make a nice all round 4 Seasons Bike? Keep Up The Great Work. 👌

[@Mapdec]

Thank you. I only review what customers buy from us. If someone orders one, it will probably go on the channel.

[@MrSchofie76]

Great review thank you 👍 I would have liked to see some discussion around the Campy UT system and its merits/issues though.

[@Mapdec]

Fair. I didn’t mention it. If you have campy cranks, fit campy BB. End of story really.

[@thebikerepairshopformby]

Nice summary 👊🏻

[@theAdventurousCyclist]

Awesome video!

[@Mapdec]

Thanks!

[@luukrutten1295]

I have had a threaded insert debond from a carbon frame. It was really glued poorly. And a very rough surface prep of the aluminium. I actually never had problem with ITA threads, the campagnolo square tapers are smooth!. Currently running almost all BB standards on my 8 different bikes. ITA, BSA, PF30....

[@zdravo4]

Well interesting video, personally I didn’t know that so many standards exists. I am using Shimano drivetrain and aluminium frame, so BSA threaded BB is the best for me. I am using shimano XT ones and I replace it every 2-3 years. Never failed and never creaked.

[@rickybarker4023]

Think I need to watch this a few times. 🤯 I’ll just give you a call I think when the time comes👍 live in ulverston so just down the road.

[@honestreviewer3283]

I have a Kogel T47 ceramic in my Cervelo R5cx (so far, it seems to be the only one out there). It seems to be as good as the Rotor in my Dura-Ace equipped road bike; spins nice and freely and is a big improvement over the Force BB the bike came with.

[@sunshinecycling]

Great info. Thanks.

[@DrJRMCFC]

I’ve had ITA threaded on a Colnago C40 and a few Pinarello Dogmas. All have been absolutely perfect. Campagnolo cups and bottom bracketS. Absolute perfection. Your videos of poorly performing BBs like your recent SRAM red just make me laugh.

[@carlnolte1637]

I've been using ITA threaded BB since 1982 with Campy and never had an issue. Currently I have a Pinarello GAN and K8S with ITA threaded BB running Campy. Super smooth and no issues.

[@emersonVZLA]

I recently upgraded my 19mm spindle FSA to a 30mm crankset by FSA and the mental gymnastics I had to do to come up with the right BSA BB and spacers for my 68mm wide Aluminum frame was exhausting! Finally got it working and it's so smooth! Wish I had the money to get some chris kings, but FSA will do for now.

[@seanrequiredfieldcannotbel1362]

A very good take, but I think you really missed an engineering novelty that is elegant and long weathering. Campagnolo brilliantly moved the cartridge bearing away from the shell and onto the crank spindle. It's brilliant because you only need to press in cups into a shell. The cups accommodate the same sized bearing, no matter the standard. Campag has standardized the bearing size and just left the cup size a thing to be determined. It's a brilliant way to guarantee a certain standard of bearing durability. What size spindle do they use? Who knows and who cares, the stock bearings last forever. If you're lucky enough to have a set that runs out of life, it is a pfaff to replace, but then you are good for another eternity. Campag doesn't get the credit they deserve for this. Imagine my 3T exploro RaceMax running Ekar. 386Evo AND Campag's ProTech BB. I don't know that I will ever need to change out that BB, it's that good.

[@Mapdec]

Campg is easy. If you have a campg crank, use a campag BB regardless of the frame standard.

[@zackb3760]

Campy doesn't get enough credit period. Excluding EPS, they've had some really great products since back in the friction days when they were more mainstream.

[@benturp3492]

I have a hope threaded BB on one of my bikes and has been a dream for YEARS!

[@alexdi1367]

Really nicely done. Agree with all of your conclusions, though I would note that BB30's bad reputation was as much the fault of other manufacturers as Cannondale. When they invented it in 2000ish, it was intended for aluminum bikes. They didn't use it in carbon until years later and I think they only did that first carbon generation with no metal shell. Later generations bonded in a shell or used bare carbon with PF30.

[@lokerola]

I went with a Wheels Manufacturing BB for my creaking Giant press fit, and it fixed it 100%.

[@nl3712]

My old (2014) SPECIALIZED mtb went through a pf30 BB every 6 months…great system 😂

[@dperreno]

I've changed BBs many, many times over the years, but never because mine was worn. Rather, I've changed due to new frames and/or new cranksets that required a different standard. Fortunately, all of mine have been threaded, so no issues with improper press-fit installation.

[@SabianDB02]

I'm running t47 BB on my ti and chapter 2 bike and also have a caad13 and Synpase Bb30...t47 hands down no issue and easy to service myself.

[@hambo76]

Shimano MT800 for me every time. It's not as premium as a Chris King but it is cheap, reliable and smooth. And I can keep a few in the drawer and still come well out on top.

[@alextorresphoto]

This video was great. I feel like this should be shown when you get hired to work in a bike shop. One of those HR Training videos. "So you decided to be a bike mechanic, let's get started! "

[@Mapdec]

Haha. Yes. Our new apprentice watched it And had a freak out moment

[@JonnyB_UK]

Plus one on the DUB in a 41mm hole woes. Currently scouring ebay for gxp sram cranks 😂

[@barrycorney3665]

Good run through of all the BB's.... glad I'm old skool still love the BSA.... (BTW I think you got DS/NDS mixed up at 6:59 ??)

[@Frostbiker]

Excellent presentation. It must have taken a fair amount of work to write, shoot and edit. Thank you for helping us understand.

[@Mapdec]

I just rolled this off the top of my head at 11am this morning 😳

[@larisonjohnson]

I love my BB30, it’s been perfect. My frame is a Felt Z5, with a molded in metal collar for the BB. Bearings fit perfectly. I’ve used PraxisWorks BBs to convert to 30mm and GXP. I’m currently running standard BB30 with SRAM carbon crank. Super light and zero issues, but you do need a frame, built to proper tolerances. My other bikes are all BSA, so I’m running shimano or GXP. I’ll look at the Chris King BB, but currently I’ve got PraxisWorks and Shimano BBs and both have been flawless.

[@MS-bw7yt]

BB30 🤮

[@invisiblescout6335]

I mean if you're putting in a metal sleeve might as well put threads in it

[@lee1210mk2]

@@MS-bw7yt Precision bearings are all press fit! Nearly all bearings in automotive applications are pressfit!

[@MS-bw7yt]

​@@lee1210mk2 tell me more, I am an engineer in the automotive industry :P I am all for pressfit. Doesn't change the fact though that original BB30 is not a good standard :D

[@lee1210mk2]

@@MS-bw7yt not a good standard for all carbon frames is the proper way of saying.

[@rd_rae]

I love my c-bear bbright 46mm, no creaking, and the ds bearing is outside of the frame, as close to the crank as on the nds. Happy days.

[@williamscalzitti217]

Quick Correction, and not sure why so many people, even really good techs get this backwards: The Drive Side is reverse threads, so to tighten the BB is the opposite direction of the crank, because if it was right hand threads, all the torque applied over time would make the BB near impossible to remove; just like pedals, but the pedal force rotates counter to the crank, so the reverse threads are on the non-drive side. Left peddle, right BB are always in the loosening direction of the torque applied not tightening

[@Mapdec]

Yeah. You’re wrong. The ball bearing rotates the opposite way to the peddling direction and applies the righting force on the outer race. If the bearing were to cease, then the BB would loosen.

[@clp91009]

Totally agree that press fit done properly is absolutely fine. My Bianchi has a BB86 press fit. I use the standard Ultegra SM-BB72-41B and it runs super smooth with no creaking. I do use a thin smear of grease when installing. Take home message if you’re frame is in spec you don’t require an expensive aftermarket 1 piece bottom bracket, the Shimano parts perform perfectly.

[@Mapdec]

Why did you use grease? It’s not in the instructions and will break down the plastic shell.

[@clp91009]

@@Mapdec To aid removal down the line. I use a very thin smear of grease that is carbon compatible. I’m on my third BB now and there is no evidence that the grease has made even the slightest impact on the frame or the BB cups. When I removed the original BB no grease had been used at the factory it had been installed dry and it was very hard to remove.

[@Mapdec]

@@clp91009 carbon is inert. It’s the bearing cup that degrades. It’s good to know the original mechanic read the instructions and did it right. 👍

[@DR_1_1]

I'm curious how long do they last (since you're already at number 3!), kilometers/years, and why exactly did you replace them, ie how did they fail? I'm asking because I have a sImilar BB-RS500-PB, but I don't see how I could remove it myself, in fact I already had several bikes that I chose replace because the axis was too lose (and other maintenance was needed at this point of course, else I would have asked a shop to do it), but my guess was that replacing the ball bearings would have been enough...

[@clp91009]

@@DR_1_1 1-2 years which is about 10,000km for me. I just replace them after that time as preventive maintenance, they don’t typically fail. Over time they become more draggy and don’t spin as freely. I’ve never had one seize but my mate did and he spun a bearing causing some minor frame damage.

[@TeilzeitSender]

As a mtb rider without the urge to ride carbon bsa works just fine :D nice informative video.

[@iand3028]

I converted my mtb's bikes back to the old shimano square drive and steel cranks after years replacing many BB's and cranks. It cost me a small fortune. Never had the pleasure of a press fit or a carbon bike. I have one the square drives that has done 20,000 miles, which I still have. Good review though. Thanks for the heads up on what I'm missing.

[@marcustenggren9137]

Hey,. Great video, and a really great channel. I have switched from Sram to Shimano recently and just bought a Dura Ace 9100 BSA BB for my Tarmac SL7. I little confused about which tool/cup I need for my torque wrench to install it. Can you enlighten me, please? I know there are plenty of "simple" bb tools out there, but I want an attachment to my torque wrench to make sure it is installed correctly. Thanks again. Cheers.

[@Mapdec]

Oh. The Dura Ace and XtR bb use a smaller size than the others. Lots of brands make the tool. Usually an adaptor is included in the BB box.

[@anthonypedregon2679]

Amazing info and delivery. Question if I may. Which of these would most possibly be usable on a beach cruiser with steel cranks. I’m using bb adapter cups currently with a bmx 3 piece crank conversion. Im aware another cup adapter will needed.

[@Mapdec]

BMX cranks and bb are quite different

[@Squizzy05]

Great video. What about one that goes through what lube/ grease you use and where on the bike. Wheel bearings, headset and things like that. ?

[@simonalexandercritchley439]

I have 40 year old square taper bbs still running smooth ,Xtr and DA. (On metal frames) The Colnago C40 (25 years) has alloy insert and threaded,still holding up.

[@MrDazP1adv3ntures]

Thank you for explaining this issue in a clear and concise manner. The bicycle industry needs to stick to one standard that works and to stop p#ssing around.

[@davegee124]

i used a cane creek BB into a press fit frame for my grandsons bike with carbon DUB cranks, its got a threaded sleeve so it pulls both halves together and tightens like a threaded BB,works briliantly, no squeaks or clicks nothing,ran 2 years no problems at all.

[@chris1275cc]

I've been running a Rotor T-47 24 internal on my gravel bike for about a year they are just starting to feel a bit sandy but I do go out and ride in absoulute filth 😂. They are only about £50 and I imagine they would last much longer on a road bike. I've previously used Bsa Hope BB's off road and always been impressed with there longevity, so I might give their T47 a go soon.

[@braveheart0317]

Thanks for this

[@Mapdec]

No problem

[@estelja]

I still like the heel clearance of BB30. I’ve got an ‘07 carbon Cannondale Synapse with an aluminum bb shell. The bearings press in just fine. I’ve run Hawk steel bearings and Enduro ceramic with no problems.

[@wimjilson9867]

Great video, thanks. What do you reckon to the Hope and Enduro bb’s / bearings?

[@Mapdec]

Depends. Hope make good external threaded bb. Enduro make the amazing max hit if you are a heavy lander.

[@raularrese3926]

My Fav of all time is 386 screw together with 24mm sleeved , stays quiet running on the delrin sleeves and stays tight in frame

[@catherinemacalisang5782]

ENDURO BEARING for my press fit BB is the best. Using it for 3-4 years now without a problem. Of course with regular re-lubrication using maxima or XHP 222 grease.

[@grvl307]

Finally someone who doesn't whine about pressfit. I have (had) multiple bikes with pressfit bb's. Never any issues 🤷🏼‍♂️

[@richardneil5202]

Brilliant explainer - thanks. I'd be very interested for your thoughts on different bearing makes & types for BBs (and wheels come to that), EG contact vs semi vs non-contact seal types, and those with removable seals so the balls can be maintained (allegedly!)

[@Mapdec]

That’s a deep level of geeky. Maybe one day.

[@andrewjones660]

Great vid. So I have a few carbon frames with BSA BB’s . What BB brand do you recommend for them ? Chris King as well? Also given CK are circa £200 is there a thread BB brand under £100 you would particularly recommend? Thanks

[@Mapdec]

Dura ace or XTR.

[@andrewjones660]

Thanks and if using sram dub on a BSA carbon frame?

[@GreDrums]

I actially have BB30 on a Tarmac sl2. Bearing slide into a metal sleeve. Still happy with it, changed bearings every 2/3 years. Recently installed the skf mtrx bearings, let’s see what the lifetime on these is!

[@mathw7173]

How does it work for you? Any issues (wobble, creaks etc)? I have a TIME Izon from 2015 with BB30 and currently my entire rotor crankset wobbles like crazy and im considering whether to buy new high quality BB30 bearings or buy a twistfit onepiece solution with external bearings

[@harryadams4070]

My carbon Planet X , 32 year old 653 steel Ribble and 10 year old Planet X aluminium frames all have threaded BBs. Shimano Octalink cartridge BBs in all three. No issues and I always keep two new replacement BBs in my box of spares. No squeaks, creaks or clunks. If it ain't broke.......

[@massaka17]

Thanks a lot for the review video, I knew some but I have learned a good deal watching it. For a bb86, which do you advise between a standard pressifit (ultegra bb72 or duraace bb92 and the ones that thread into eachother like bbb bbi29 or wheels manufacturing). Thanks.

[@Mapdec]

I don’t like the thread together unless I have a problem to solve. Bad tool engagement, forces applied to frames in directions they were not designed for.

[@andymci5981]

Fantastic video, which ive watched 4 times...only liked once! At 3.52 you talk about fitting a Bb threaded as 'dry fit'. Does that include any compound that's already applied onto the threads of a new BB? Its when you try to remove it next service, anything 'dry' usually give problems.

[@Mapdec]

Dry fit is in the pressfit bit with pf41 and a plastic bb in my hand.

[@ploegdbq]

The key is to read the manual. Different situations, different procedures.

[@carlcole9026]

If you are interested??? I have found Token bottom brackets really good. Especially the thread together - press fit versions. Just in case Token is something you haven't checked out. Love your channel!!!!

[@Mapdec]

Thanks. Yep. They make good problem solvers.

[@PRH123]

"The best" depends on the intended use. One can't say that a hammer is a better tool than a screwdriver. Depends what you plan to use it for. I've had it with the multiple new standards, and on my touring and commuter bikes, I've gone back to 68 mm BSA JIS square taper cartridges. Inexpensive Token BB has a titanium spindle and cartridge bearings, light and smooth as silk. The recess for the BB tool provides excellent protection against water and snow. Timeless, simple, reliable.

[@sempi8159]

What? All bb are used for the same thing... What are you talking about?

[@PRH123]

@@sempi8159 well, talking about which and what kind of BB to use... not what they're used FOR.... that's pretty obvious... :)

[@sempi8159]

@@PRH123 "the best depends on the intended use"??

[@PRH123]

@@sempi8159 yes, that’s my point…. For example the parameters for a good BB on a racing bike, a gravel bike, a touring bike, an MTB, a city bike, etc. may be very different from one another…

[@peteracain]

Chris King threaded on my Titanium Baum road bike is the best bottom bracket I've ever ridden bar none.

[@ernestoechevers4741]

Never had an Italian BB undo itself more of an urban legend

[@SimonHarlow]

Thanks for the video. I have a question: how do you know whether a carbon bottom bracket shell is designed to be to be faced and reamed? I assume it would have to have a certain amount of a specific material that is intended to be reamed etc around the BB area. I'm pretty sure that not all carbon frames have this and putting facing or reaming cutters on brittle resin or lacquer is probably not a good idea? Would you recommend prepping all carbon frames? Many thanks, Simon.

[@Mapdec]

You measure it, and check its integrity first. Lots of other vids with more details and solutions.

[@revelationdetailers894]

I have a BBInfinite on the way for my C'Dale SuperSixEvo with DUB (PF30A) to install. I read nothing but the best on these bottom brackets. I will certainly post results after installing and putting some miles on it. Ordered with ceramatech bearings. The problem I see in this industry is they need to all streamline BB systems and create a one piece one model f9r the most part rather than so darn many variations! It is mind boggling the different systems!

[@Dr.Schlitz]

I’ve got BBInfinite in two frames, including a 2010 Supersix that came with BB30 bearings. Really like the BBInfinite products.

[@msheron]

That is good to know, thanks.@@Dr.Schlitz

[@RBlakemore]

Currently running a token ninja thread together in my BB386 evo Orbea frame. Spins so smooth and freely compared to standard press fit 386evo it replaced!

[@Mapdec]

I would have got the frame reamed rather than apply a compression force to a structure not designed for it. I’m sure it will be fine.

[@BodyKnight]

Uncrewed italian BB are like worn off rim braking surfaces. Something very few people have seen.

[@tomkie6]

Great video. I use Hambini BB in my bikes....best in the business in my opinion...but the are not cheap though

[@Mapdec]

Yep. Good problem solvers. Overkill if no problems to solve.

[@adrenna123]

For press fit, look at Wheels Manufacturing. The BB threads together internally in the press fit space. Never creaks, maintenance free. I got 39K miles on my last one and had it replaced with the same. Just picked up a Bianchi Otlre Pro and had the pressed in BB replaced before I ever rode it. This is by far, the best BB on the market. Wheels Manufacturing.

[@Mapdec]

They are called thread together bottom brackets and they place a horizontal clamping force on the frame. They can fix a problem of an oversized frame, but they are not a preferred solution for a frame that is ok.