The Best Knife Buffing Cream

[@basstremor]

I noticed that when you're using sandpaper to polish the Hira, you're using back and forth strokes. You can cause a lot of visual imperfections by doing so. one-directional long strokes are better because you won't cause J-hook or spiderwebbing. Using a soft backing behind the sandpaper also distributes pressure and makes your finish more even than using fingers as a backing. As well, kasumi can still exist as a high polish. Something like a suehiro 8k is great for that.

[@Burrfection]

Thanks for sharing. Will do better!

[@hakapik683]

To get a good polish you start in one direction with the first grit, then turn your strokes 90 degrees and use the next grit. Every time you go to a finer grit you MUST change direction. Once all of the previous scratches are gone, you move up to the next grit. You use a HARD backing for the paper. Using a soft backing will not properly distribute the pressure, all the pressure will be directly under your finger tips. A very flat piece of hardwood wrapped in paper is good, or better yet put the paper on a thick piece of glass and move the knife on the paper using even downward pressure.

[@Burrfection]

wow.... great info!

[@shoutatthesky]

@@hakapik683 I glue paper to a hard backing.

[@Crazyknives]

@@hakapik683 Make a video on how to do it please 👍

[@youtubesucks3419]

I have to be honest, when I put the #120 sandpaper to the section above the Shinogi-line of my brand new, 180mm Masamoto Hongasumi KS, my heart skipped a beat, or two or three - ha ha ha! Seriously though, the large scratches tore at my soul, though having Rcky’z video REALLY made ALL of the difference for me. Even without the “special polish,” which should arrive tomorrow, ending on the #5000 truly got me emotional. A little “pro tip,” once I got I got into the levels of #1000+ I used a small amount of Camilla oil between levels, which worked better to achieve an even polish. Also, using water on freshly a-braided Shitogami #2 would rapidly lead to blackened patina. Overall, I’m both impressed with myself, thankful for Rcky; you have a supporter for LIFE❣️

[@dragan3290]

Hi I polished my kitchen knives to a mirror finished look. I can only get 5000 grit sandpaper in wet and dry in Australia. After sanding to a mirror finished look. I buffed on bench style buff with white compound last. I then used Silvo hand polish compound. When I finished it looks amazing but food glides off just rinsing! So!!! Being OCD! Lol. I polished my wife's stainless steel pots and pans and they are 20 years old but hot water with a little dish soap is unbelievable how easy everything slides off. I hope it didn't damage the frying pans as far as anything leaching into the food? I had no idea about seasoning fry pans? I'm 48 and still learning! Lol. Btw I restored my BOWIE knife blade even more due to you and your vids, tutorials. I've been practicing on scrap knives as much as possible. But the bowie knife I wrapped up the blade in electrical tape so I can restore the handle! It was extremely pitted and electroplating of the brass was so bad that I couldn't leave it as is. It looks antique on the handle but the blade looks new. I tried sanding ,polishing, cleaning and then electroplating brass. Wouldn't stick no matter what! But the blade when I was holding it. I was cleaning with a dremel to prep for electroplating! It cut through the pvc tape and scalped my thumb and fingers! Lol😂. So I'm definitely improving. ( I think so ) now I'm addicted to polishing all the kitchen knives to a beautiful shine. In Australia my wife bought a brand called forever sharp kitchen knives. But in comparison to the knives I have sharpened! It's like a blunt axe in comparison to a sharp samurai sword! Lol. Thanks to your vids! Man I'm so happy I came across all your tutorials. Sorry for rambling! It's a joy when something can end up so nice and does a brilliant job. Cheers and thank you so much!🙂👍👍👍🥳❤

[@dand2633]

Ryky I want to thank you so much! For years I had trouble getting my knife really sharp I understood making a burr and correct angles . What I was ignorant of was the time it takes to remove that burr completely. So I would always have a micro-burr that would fold over. now they’re coming out razor sharp much appreciated!

[@Emivioricomex]

Did you use the techniques and products in this video?

[@Kilnor]

Look at 3M scotch Brite too. It can work as a replacement for less fine sandpaper. I'm not a knife sharpener however I am a machinist and have had to polish stainless steel to a mirror finish before. Also mother's polish is cheap and works well. Love your videos!

[@Kilnor]

@@lynng3421 I'd use scotch Brite and follow it up with mother's polish.

[@jez76]

Personally I’ve used Autosol polish for this. Available for “metal” and stainless. works great as long as you prepare with sandpaper as you did. The mirror finish also keeps the knife cleaner imo. Less stuff, incl. water sticks to the surface.

[@Burrfection]

Thanks for the input

[@ktkace]

I was thinking autosol might work and boom! Autosol comment. Thank you !

[@quisazaderak9257]

just ordered 6 x Autosol... KZbin recommends this vid ... now this!

[@Reza-nz2re]

@@Burrfection i have autosol and i am thinky about it to polish my knife

[@Greyswyndir]

That's interesting, I recently heard that a mirror polish will make the knife more stickier, at least when it comes to food prep. It makes sense that a mirror polish would protect the knife against dirt and rust (resistant but not foolproof). I think the reason for food sticking more to such a highly polished surface is because there are no surface imperfections (the surface is very flat), and thus no air gets trapped between the food and the knife's blade, thereby causing a suction cup effect. The shape of the blade makes a difference as well. Since a yanagiba has a fairly hard angle between the primary cutting edge and the secondary bevel, food sticking might not be an issue with a mirror polish, but if you're using a tradition chef's knife, which are generally much flatter, then food sticking might become a real issue with a mirror finish.

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

ultra hack: buff the paste on with a dremel with a cotton buffing wheel. Do you find this buffing compound works on harder steels like Elmax @ 61 HRC?

[@Burrfection]

wanted to do everything by hand, since not everyone may want to go out and buy more equipment. but have a dozen yanagibas coming in 2-3 weeks and a few of them ZDP189s, so i'll post another video with hard steels tested.

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

@@Burrfection awesome! Looking forward to that! I currently work my way up with naniwa chosera and finish with shapton ha no kuromaku 5.000 (sometimes naniwa snow white 8.000) and strop afterwards for mirror polishing most of my bevels. I haven't found any stones I prefer over chosera and ha no kuromaku but Im wanting to try something new. What are your favorite stones for mirror polishing the apex and / or whole bevel? Stay sharp!

[@cheapmovies25]

@@DutchBushcraftKnives the sharpest i ever seen was from diamond paste tree topping hair into 7 pieces..they get insane micron numbers using that method w strops...but like 10k is fine for me lol

[@mbks77]

I work on a lot of EDC knives made from Elmax (Microtechs and others)...I use diamond paste after I get to 2k grit wet sanding...sometimes the sanding isn't needed...but most times it is...with a mirror finish, you see every flaw, so you have to level out the surface by sanding first

[@m1k4c]

I don't know how do people do that perfect mirror polish, you know that "reflector" look, almost like emulsion, the thing you can see on Marfione custom knives. Using a dremel cotton and felts wheels, hand sanding, buffing wheels, every possible paste and every drill/dremel attachment - all that stuff - leaves just a bit of that "orange peel" look - yes, it shines, but it's not perfectly smooth, so it's not like a REAL mirror. I would like how Marfione accomplishes that perfectly smooth mirror look.

[@summit505]

Great to have you back mate!! :) Thanks for sharing your new find to get a polish finish!!

[@Burrfection]

It is good to be back and you are welcome

[@KLucero22]

The scratches on your customer knife returns are from them using the green side of a scotch-brite sponge. I highly recommend using only the blue non-scratch scotch-brite sponges. Otherwise the green side leaves exactly the scratches shown in your video

[@daveking1007]

What's the best way to remove those scratches?

[@KLucero22]

@@daveking1007 unfortunately to remove the scratches you have to repolish the knife which will be quite time consuming or impossible depending on the knife and quality of the original polish. If the original polish was a basic brushed finish then you can remove the scratches with progressive grit sandpaper starting from coarse to fine. But if the polish is a fine Japanese mirror polish then it will be impossible to reproduce the original polish created by the polishing masters at the knife maker

[@cookedmarbles4888]

I've gotten mirror polishes since I was about 15. Get herb's Yellowstone compound, it's intended for shop tools bit gives a mirror polish every time.

[@Chihuahuauno1]

LMFAO, agreed, often times, these discussions can become to hair-splitting and esoteric for their own good!

[@knifereviewergermany]

Thank you for your great content. We have been big fans of your channel for years and you inspired us to create our own little German-language knife test channel on KZbin :)

[@Burrfection]

awesome. keep at it

[@knifereviewergermany]

@@Burrfection Thank you. We are a quite small channel at the moment but we really like what we do. We would also be very happy to receive suggestions to get a bigger community :)

[@demokraatti]

I'm happy to see you exploring this side of sharpening. I've been using cheap diamond paste for mirror polishing and finishing of the edge. The results are great. It's a fast way to create a nice mirror polish and razor sharp edge. And I mean literally razor sharp. I just shaved my beard off with a japanese VG-10 bushcraft knife.

[@Burrfection]

Thanks for sharing

[@parvezsalim6378]

Hi , I am not a chef but when I cook something, it gives me satisfaction. And I know how important it is to have good chef knife to add catalyst to the satisfaction. I am not a very rich person hence can not afford a Japanese chef knife. I came across to your youtube channel and saw that you are offering knife to the people who loves knives and know the value of a good knife. I would be very happy if you can offer me one japanese chef knife . Thank you

[@thomasmckinney6370]

Did you get one ?

[@mattadler4710]

Super helpful. Offering hard won wisdom and expertise where it is available to everyone is a great service, and I sincerely appreciate that. Some out there. (Myself included) may be spared lots of time and money thanks to this. Thank you so much.

[@Chihuahuauno1]

So how many minutes or strokes would you recommend per grit level?

[@peter-radiantpipes2800]

I was knife sharpening on the side for last few years. Haven’t in a while. Think I’ll do my own knives this weekend. Long past due.

[@Burrfection]

You got this

[@youtubesucks3419]

QUESTION: Wouldn’t it be beneficial to mirror polish the “back side” of a blade, in addition to the area above the Shinogi-line? I have a right handed-Usuba, and it seems to me, by polishing the left side (back side), of the blade in addition to the area above the Shinogi-line, mirror polishing these two areas will make food slip right off from those areas of contact. I just don’t see it done often, if at all. I know it takes more time to polish the backside of a knife, but for a better cutting action, I don’t mind doing it, if it would actually be of benefit. Thoughts all?

[@dragan3290]

I polish the sides of the knife for experiment! And did a comparison on a sharp kitchen knife and a polished sharp knife! It actually cuts through so much easier!

[@dragan3290]

Yes you are spot on. 🙂👍👍👍

[@michaell397]

Ah, you've stumbled upon the secret of many top custom KnifeMakers. At a boy! ;

[@Crazyknives]

So this paste that Ricky used is good?

[@Gollammeister]

I'm using a 1000 grit 8000 grit whetstone and I've found that just using the 8000 grit to maintain the edge in between uses helps maintain the edge just fine I don't think I'd need to go any higher

[@smokinjoe1256]

on a yanagiba or on a katana you just have to polish the soft jigane. this is actually pretty easy, most important are 100% straight strokes. would be interesting how your polishingpaste behaves when it comes to kasumi, in comparison to uchigumori-fingerstones.

[@johnvendickstubungbanua509]

Do you have a video on sharpening a hamaguri on single bevel knives? I only saw you do a yanagiba which was completely flat on the shinogi. Thank you, Ryky!

[@krissteel4074]

There's quite a few vids on the internet in terms of sanding knives from a makers perspective, however for the 'finished product' most people are going to get a knife from a factory at around an honest 320grit, with usually a spine to edge direction because its done on machines. There's a couple that might creep into the 600 grit but they would be kind of scarce. When you're sanding, its quite important to stage your grits along a known point and also technique of just one direction and Do Not go back and forth because it essentially forms a fish hook shaped scratch in the metal. Between grits its also important to go in a different direction. So if you come from 320 doing spine to edge, you need to go up to 400 or 600 from heel to tip and when you're going up to 800 spine to edge and up to 1000, do heel to tip and so on. When you change direction it lets you see the scratches from the previous grit and eliminate them completely, also with the finer grits its important to change the viewing angle of the blade so you can pick up in the light if there's any sneaky ones you've missed. Sanding sticks are a whole other essay's worth of information, but a good hard material like G10, wood or aluminium bar will help keep the sandpaper flat and on that most people will also add a leather strip glued on (fairly thin 2-3mm) which has a bit of 'give' and lets you smooth some areas which are curved. Polishing compounds by hand- that's the "very hard way" of doing it :) Dunno about traditional, I've known families of metal polishers dating back to the 1700's which used buffing wheels, so I guess it really comes down to traditions in some parts of the world. Personally, I use them and they're the scariest tool in the shop because of their ability to throw a knife though walls, floors, people and are extremely dangerous. Microfibre and by hand are a lot safer, but if you're changing compound cuts, change cloths. In the past I've also used autobody cutting compounds too, Meguilars make a really good set of professional diamond grit cuts which work extremely well with light pressure and they will also work as a stropping compound too. But apart from that, the mirror finish on kitchen knives is very important for two reasons- It removes resistance against the sides of the knife which makes it easier on the user and will let them concentrate on their cuts, slicing without worrying about fighting the material in their hand as well as the food itself. It makes it easier to clean and helps improve the quality of the preparation as there's less places for food to get stuck in that the cook can see when cleaning his blade between food types. Don't buy knives for the kitchen with rubbish like 'forged finishes' or still have chunklets of old files they're made out of, I'm even skeptical of hammer finishes on knives as well as it shows the manufacturer didn't care enough for their product to remove them from the finished product and its lazy. Its not a homage to the material or art, its just lazy! For hunting, outdoor and art-knives that never see food, by all means enjoy forged finishes and hammer marks all you want, but its really unacceptable in professional chefs knives of any type.

[@Burrfection]

Goodness... that was a post

[@Chihuahuauno1]

I think Fujiwara-San would disagree with YOUR OPINION on hammered patterns left within the blade (which by the way actually causes food to “release” from the blade). In addition to the asthetic-apeal, he, and many others DO appreciate, myself included. We have to be careful not to allow our own subjectivity to interfere with our own ability to still remain objective, and intersectional.

[@krissteel4074]

@@Chihuahuauno1 Its not an opinion, I make kitchen knives every day. You want food release you look at the geometry of the knife. Very high, narrow grinds or an S-Grind (much like a fuller but broader) are effective ways of shedding especially sticky food off a knife. The 'traditional finish' or 'blacksmith' finish is a complete myth invented by marketing departments. In Japan they'd call it a kurouchi or 'rustic' finish and people think its cool. If you want to think its cool that's great, but its not going to make food fall off the knife any easier and its also not going to assist in the cleaning of the knife having any traces of hammer blows or forge scale along its surface. I mean really, if we wanted a slippery dip to work on the same fashion we'd give it a golf ball surface all the way down with some chunks of forge slag hanging off it. But we don't, its polished smooth and at a steep angle. Don't eat the marketing bullshit, its bad for you

[@scottleech6837]

I’m glad I found this channel! You’ve answered a lot of my sharpening questions! Have you tried Micromesh sandpaper? It starts at 1500 up to 12000 grit. I know Rockler or Amazon have it.

[@jerrykinnin7941]

I took machine shop in high school. And worked as a machinist for a time. Check out gauge blocks. They are so shiny(shiny = smooth) You can stack them and pick up the stack by the top piece. Would razor honing be too sharp?

[@benjamindejonge3624]

Like always I’m amazed, thanks for sharing

[@n00baTr00pa]

Would this compound be suitable for stropping?

[@wepntech]

oh when scratches are too deep for sanding or stone work, out comes the grinder, angle grinde with a flapper and buffing wheel works pretty well. then hand sanding up to polishing etc.

[@christinenorriss9675]

Do you think a mirror finish on knife blade protects it from tarnishing etc..

[@modegolf]

Great channel and you are a kind person! Question: Do you put any credence into checking the knife edge (apex) under a bright light to see if any bright spots reveal dull areas? If you do, would the lack of reflective spots mean your are done sharpening / polishing? Thank you.

[@allenpearson9716]

Is the polishing compound safe to use on all Japanese knife finishes?

[@pincheatzin4500]

Amo!!!... Verdaderamente amo!!! Los cuchillos. Juro que te comprare cuchillos. Soy de Aguascalientes, México. Y quiero que los cocineros tengan una cultura de cuchillos😍🤟

[@BeyBattleBoy]

So did you get that mirror finish without using the sandpaper on the one you used the compound on? I just bought $70 worth of sandpaper after watching your DIY sharpening video, as well as that compound. Would I be able to get the result with solely the compound itself without the hours of using the sandpaper?

[@bmn621]

Hello, did you find out anything about using this compound on Damascus knives?

[@iambyrdman]

3:30 because of the stone not staying flat is why I like the sound of sand paper. Please tell me if I'm right and I thank you for all your precious time!!!

[@MARKET_ANDREY]

Thanks👍 very

[@jesterskull38]

Thank you for the tips and tricks, makes big difference with daily use, that is a awesome result

[@Burrfection]

Will do it for my daily drivers as well

[@francskitchen6877]

can this cream be used in carbon steel?

[@cartossin]

Is it better than Brasso?

[@ianmonaghan5442]

Could you use this on a strop to get a mirror polish on the edge?

[@Chewychaca]

My understanding is that there is compound and polish. Compound being rougher and polish being more fine. Check to see if there is both?

[@rjart7988]

RJ ART hace 1 segundo Burrrrrrrr i am planning to buy a mirror finished shirogami 1 takobiki...Wich materials do u think i need to mantain it? I don´t mind to spend time on it, i am pro but i am young yet so i never had one of these before... Thank u!!!!!!

[@heni63]

Love your videos Ricky and you as a person!❤️

[@ragecharacter4743]

Be cautious on ur lower grits can really mess u up when u get to higher grit.Love the channel Ryky👍🙏

[@Burrfection]

Thank you for the heads up

[@Chihuahuauno1]

Can you please expand on your assertion further? Do you mean assure to ONLY go in 1-direction (not back-and -forth), as Ricky did. As lower grits can leave gouges/scratches permanently within the blade.

[@dirtrider88]

i got a question and im hoping you can answer. i recently found a 3 piece sharpening stone set at my moms house and i cant find it anywhere online to show you what it is. im trying to figure out if i need to soak them or they are splash and go? heres the info i have from whats on the pouch. its made by diamond life item number 92887, no they dont appear to have diamonds anywhere. they seem to be just regular stones. theres a "light blue-green" 600 grit, a "red" 260 grit and a "dark blue-green" 100 grit. it says "wet or oil use; alumina and carborundum stones". thats about all the useful info thats on the pouch other than me describing what it looks like. so yea, my question is do i need to soak them or can they be used as splash and go?

[@mafr3552]

I have a question: As far I know you´re not a huge fan of sharpening jigs. Anyway I did build one myself past days and know I have a problem I do not understand. Hopefully you as a person who spends much more thoughts about knifes then me have an answer for that problem: The sharpening jig leads the sandstone in exactly 16 degree over my knifes. After I sharpen them, they are dull. Sometimes even more then before the sharpening. I have different knifes from cheap to expensive. German steal vs. cheap carbon steal. All the same. When I sharpen them after over the back of another knife its perfectly fine after. What is wrong? Could be the wrong degree. Could be the cheap stone I use (15$), could be that I use my Jig wrong. Probably I just suck :D Do you have an answer for that? Thanks a lot

[@ciderandthorazine]

i think there may be a use for buffing compounds also as a stropping medium. personally i've experimented with cheap "cutting compound" used in automotive repairs/polishing. it gave quite a fearsome edge. i'd guess the compound featured here would likely achieve good things on a strop - post-stones, of course.

[@SP-ls8lw]

Let's see a "test and review" on this clamp mount Ruixin Pro we're seeing everywhere!

[@blackclavish]

That buffing compound is basically “Metal Polish” like Quick-Glo that’s typically found at a hardware store. Sanding down those scratches on those knives with a fine grit sandpaper followed by polishing with metal polish is considerably more effective method in removing those scratches.

[@Burrfection]

will have to look it up

[@tonyhuynhxe1974]

Hey Ricky. Just wondering about the polish. I just did this on one of my knives. But I cut some salmon and washed it off, it seemed to stain my knife. So I was thinking of doing the polish again, but is there any thing I can use to coat it from dirtier blemishes? Cheers

[@Burrfection]

i cannot use the compound until you have polished with sand paper up to at least 1000 grit. if you do, you'll see the polish isn't as effective, and can leave the haze. if your knife already has a mirror polish, this will help maintain it

[@TheMiniD3]

Excellent result Ryky Question My sharpening is OK, except my chefs knife is wearing out...........I'm guessing cheap knife? or am I too aggressive getting a burr ? ............Gary .....................AU

[@scottydudley5700]

Could you please provide a link and/or spelling of the buffing compound?Also for the procurement and use of the rust eraser? Thanks

[@Burrfection]

Koyo blue and medium rust eraser store.burrfection.com/collections/accessories

[@bodhim4353]

What about knives with a pattern in the metal (Damascus for example)? Can you use these sort of polishes? Or does it require a different technique to get a uniform finish?

[@berengerchristy6256]

if it's actually damascus it doesn't matter. if it's laser etched, well use your brain

[@Kiwi-jj7qh]

Hey man thanks for the awesome videos keep doing what you do! Your videos have taught me so much about quality knives and skills to take care of them that I actually used those skills to get a job at my local knife shop!

[@j.jkitchen843]

i just wanted to say i copped it today finally back in stock lmao

[@TopKatDannie]

Can I use this for carbon steel knives?

[@ryanle1293]

This is strangely relevant. My mentor passed down his Sakai yanagiba to me and I was thinking about polishing if

[@felipe96150]

I'm a chef de partie and have a aogami #2 shigeki tanaka. I used to work in the fish section of a 5 stars hotel kitchen for long long wet grueling hours so I couldn't give this knife the care it required. Its full of rust spots now. I have been sharpening my knives with Choseras for about 7 years now but I have no idea what to do with that rust. What should I do? Thank you

[@thedivineprotectorofmangos9841]

You should try using flitz. It's one of the best polishing compounds I've ever used. I even loaded a strop with it and got results on par with a strop loaded with 1 micron diamond spray.

[@robertmauch7594]

Yes! I used that stuff on aircraft nose cones, prop covers, etc. It's super easy to get a high polish

[@lucynavi6890]

What is the name if the specific product sir

[@heinrichv.martens5118]

Amazing video mate

[@iambyrdman]

$15 Shipping stopped me from buying it from you. Thanks again for all you precious time!!!

[@ricktomev155]

What do you know about the blacksmith finish and taking care of that type of knife? Specifically for a carbon knife

[@sonkekoster3105]

There is one aspect you shoult keep in mind. Beside optical issues. The mirror polish is good to prevent the knife from rost and discoloration. That's the reason why the traditional (Solingen) German handmande carbon blade get a special mirror polish. That's the same, if you compare the Masamoto KS vs. Masamoto Honyaki. The second got a mirror polish!

[@Burrfection]

thank you for the input

[@mattpaisley8706]

I would buy scratched up returns. Js if there was a returned/damaged section in your store I would be shopping there.

[@TheGearhead222]

Is setting the bevel while knife sharpening as difficult as setting the bevel while razor honing? Only ask as I tried straight razor honing for 4-5 years with quality equipment and could never set the bevel. Appreciate any feedback-John in Texas

[@jojojaykay]

Harder because there’s a lot more material behind the edge of a knife compared to a razor.

[@victorfranca85]

I find the push and pull technique can be difficult for some people. The edge on most of these Japanese knives are 10 to 15 degrees give or take, which is flat almost on the stone. I go by the sound on the stone. There is a distinct shift in pitch and feel when you are on the angle already on the blade. You can get a digital angle finder from china on aliexpress to check and make not of the sound and feel when you are at that angle. With my technique I try to lock my wrist and go in circles instead of jerking it back and forth. The shoulder is a ball and socket, circular motion is ideal for a ball and socket joint.

[@victorfranca85]

You can just switch the bevel angle on coarse stone. Any book on sharpening will give you the detail on edge geometry. Ryky tries to keep it organic and intuitive. And even he pays too much attention to A LOT of trivial details compared to how I do it. But its a subjective thing once you stray from tradition.

[@TheGearhead222]

@@victorfranca85 I wish it was that easy. I can sharpen my kitchen knives to cut, but to hone a razor is an entirely different beast, IMHO. Taught myself how to straight razor shave also, which took about a year-John in Texas

[@murph8411]

@@TheGearhead222 why aren’t you just lying the razor flat against the stone so you don’t have to set any bevel? The geometry of the razor should set the bevel. If you are changing the bevel when it comes to maintenance you won’t be hitting the edge while laying the blade against the stone. Surely?

[@Pits750]

#00 wire wool and autosol. Or a cheap drill based polishing kit and polishing bar

[@lecoachonsporctif]

Hello, when you say "3000 grit" you mean in jis or fepa f ?

[@DreadX10]

When showing the mirror finish, could you 'aim' it at a piece of white paper with black lines (forming a rectangular grid) on it? So you would see the grit in the reflection. The sharpness of the lines in the reflection will show how polished the surface is, while the straightness of the lines will show any depressions (non-flatness) in/(on) the surface. You can use a printer to make the grit and have very sharp lines but even better is using a sharpie. The little details/imperfections on the side of a black line made by a sharpie are really useful for determining how you are progressing in getting that mirror-finish. Just my two cents....(is about how much this set-up would cost).

[@Burrfection]

thanks for the tip. will do better

[@baldmanstrength]

Hey Ryky, A quick question for your next Q&A video. A few months ago I bought a fairly pricy black damascus gyuto and the blade is quite beautiful. However due to an issue with the windows in my kitchen it has been very cold in there over the winter and I think this has caused some minor condensation (on everything metal) and has resulted in some dulling of the shinier layers of the damascus. Do you think this compound would work for bringing back the lustre of the shiny layers without damaging the matt darker layers? Thanks!

[@JulioRegis]

I did mine with a multi tool just cut the sand paper to fit the pad and to finish get 14k grit paste and finish by hand

[@Burrfection]

interesting. will have to try

[@raffieb762]

Hey ryky, I bought your buffalo stroping block, and I bought a high concentration diamond compound, I applied it and let it dry overnight and started polishing a knife, the compound just rubbed off and is on the knife, was messy, had to use the old stroping block, did I apply wrong?

[@Burrfection]

just a few drops of mineral oil and rub the entire surface in. it'll soften everything up, and you should be good to go.

[@raffieb762]

Oh man, thank you so much sir! Appreciate everything you do, huge fan! Thanks again!

[@anthonymara4533]

Yup, only 1:30 into this video and I'm subscribing.

[@michaelrs8010]

So how hard do you press the Sandpaper to the metal? Very hard, like you're trying to push it through the metal to try get all you can out of the grit, so to speak. Or are you just lightly brushing it across the surface each successive time and change of grit?

[@Chihuahuauno1]

The “proper” was is to use something hard, like wood or metal or glass, to act as a constant pressure distributed behind the sandpaper. Something soft behind the paper can cause uneven wear as we as using your fingers will cause even more uneven wear.

[@whatmane]

Hi! I was wondering if you're located in America. I have a 330mm Blue Steel #2 Masamoto honyaki yanagi that I'm trying to restore the mirror polish on the hira section. I was wondering if you provide services of that sort since it's extremely hard finding people that do those sorts of things.

[@Burrfection]

hey there Clayton. i normally don't take such requests. send photos of your knife to email at [e-mail] and i'll see

[@kumadogjack]

And of course, I had this in my cart for the last week and was in stock then this video comes out... Boom! No more

[@marcinelmer82]

I was some time ago on the group that I send my car polish kit using slow motion driller (like a grinder). works miracle. Tojiro Pro, Shun Yanagiba

[@fatmanvidz]

curious about how this would work with Damascus knives. I would be worried about losing the pattern, trying to etch it back with acid, and just end up having a ton of scratches from the buffing. On another note, what do you think is the best way to remove deep scratches in blade profiles? I sharpen knives for coworkers and classmates all the time, and their knives have horrible scratches on them from using cheap honing steels with poor technique or trying to sharpen them themselves without practice. Preferably something quick and easy considering I'm only charging $5/knife and spend up to 2 hours per knife on stones and strops (I'm basically working for free, but it's good marketing and just something I like to do to make sure my people have good tools for work and school)

[@bundles1978]

Love your channel. Any chance you would give your opinion on knife sharpeners like the Wicked edge? also look at things like micromesh and professional diamond polishes available on amazon in some seriously high grit numbers.

[@martinbarabe4643]

I just inherited a set of 3 Japan knives that i cannot find any information about. The stamp on them says chef’s Touch molybdenum stainless. They are in a fairly good shape. Are they worth me putting the effort to get them looking and cutting like new?

[@Burrfection]

of course. have at it. have fun and see what you can do.

[@theone031]

If you want a mirror finish you should definitely try Flitz or Mothers Mag polish. You can find both at your local hardware store or car parts store like Advance auto or O'rileys. Might even find it at Walmart.

[@cameronmccoy5051]

Is it food safe though?

[@matthewtaylor450]

I wanted to say ive learned alot from your videos and i started sharpening my own knives at work(im a butcher). I was wondering if youd think about doing a butcher knive sharpening tutorial because the blades are shaped quite differently and theres not very many good butcher knive sharpening videos out there.

[@Burrfection]

Thank you!

[@b-radg916]

As the son of a butcher (in possession of his dad’s old knives), I’ll second that!

[@gerardosantoro9707]

What knife is it? 😍😍

[@jameshaulenbeek5931]

I don't remember the grit count of the paper I have...I believe it's 2000 grit, it's a Japanese (?) wet sanding paper. Fairly old, as well. I don't know when it was made, or what materials were used. I took one of my Opinels to a near mirror finish with it. It seems to polish better than other papers I've used in the past, with higher grits. While I haven't kept up with the finish, it's held up very well and the blade is less prone to tarnish than my others. I was planning on getting a rubbing compound to take it to a bright mirror finish, but I never got that far with it... yet.

[@ebsalonga]

I knew it! The grit rating on a sandpaper is the same as on a whetstone.

[@ericfg806]

No! No it's not. "Grits" are widely variable

[@JohnFaire]

I also figure out that the mirror polish helps release food better, and it also glides through food with less resistance... I tried wet sanding first. Took a long time. But then I had car wheel and mag polish in the garage. I tried that, and got it to an above satin mirror result. Drummers also have symbol polish which should work as well.

[@Burrfection]

Thanks for the input

[@superbanana1784]

Same. I have. Wusthof I polished on a bench polished with Mother’s Mag and it definitely releases better than my $300+ Miyabi Damascus knives. The texture clings to food, but I still enjoy the appearance.

[@superbanana1784]

Same. I have. Wusthof I polished on a bench polished with Mother’s Mag and it definitely releases better than my $300+ Miyabi Damascus knives. The texture clings to food, but I still enjoy the appearance.

[@daheldraed]

loved vid coz of idea standing for a cheapest the way for Perfection, Would keep contacts, if You are don't mind. Perfections: at best possible effective time n costs. Carelessness are excluded. (right now *west countries influence of crappy sharp edge*, working with blades to rough change it to 10-15 degrees, wet-grinder-wheels), old school style and new era, luv to hand sharpening knifes but I've found myself limited at hand sharp, looking forward to be conferred the greatest benefit to humankind.

[@wyyyve]

have you used the Belgian bluestone and cortical? I am a fan of them over synthetic stones but I haven't seen anyone with experience with Japanese stones give their take on them. If you havent used them it might be a decent video idea.

[@Emivioricomex]

I've watched tones of your videos and I understood them all.. I don't know why I'm totally lost here.. 🤷‍♀️😔. I don't see any sandpaper and I don't understand what that blue tape is for on the knife..

[@koedphaibun12]

What if you were to use this buffing compound on a strop and then stropped a knife?

[@jeffreymurillo3131]

Have you tried using Mothers mag & aluminum polish? I was using it on this piece of metal with a rotary tool and it gave me a mirror finish.

[@Burrfection]

Will give it a shot

[@b-radg916]

@@Burrfection: There’s also something called Autosol that I’ve been meaning to try.

[@Nicalissimo]

Autosol. I have mirror polished an aluminium body car with it. Works wonders

[@MVanDii]

May I request you to use and review the Smith Tri-stone sharpening system?

[@Realwademasters]

Try flitz stainless polish I use it all the time on my convex knives with strop or just buffing wheel does same thing

[@montyv3909]

@Burrfection can you do a video putting a mirror finish on a KS?

[@Burrfection]

Great idea

[@shallehrizuan719]

I don't know if u guys know this, u can mirror finish ur knife with compound and polystyrene box lid, i works for for 10 years i working in the kitchen

[@BPAZPH]

Thank you Ryky for all your videos. I've finally repaired and honed 2 of my favorite kitchen knives that had 2-3 mm deep chips. I never realized how effortless it is to work in the kitchen if your knife is razor sharp. Anyway, I tried polishing my knives but only found a 2k girt for final polishing. The results were very unsatisfactory. I tried to alternate between length and cross wise when graduating between grits and ended up sanding cross wise with the 2k and the scratches the sandpaper left are so obvious. Here are my questions, when you're sanding, do you use the same piece of sandpaper for the entire duration of each grit? Would you also polish the back side of your yanagiba?

[@Burrfection]

I usually go through two 2x3 inch sheets per grit. Once everything is even, i move on.

[@Burrfection]

Yes , i also do the back but not go all mirror

[@BPAZPH]

Oh. I cut a 1" strip from each grit and move along the strip when it starts to feel worn. I'll try the worn out pieces and see if it's better

[@alexpuzankov8453]

Thank you sir!

[@Burrfection]

You bet!

[@GroovesAndLands]

To fix the scratches on the flat side of the blade correctly, you need to sand/grind down the entire surface. You'll need a flat surface such as a polished granite countertop - or perhaps a piece of glass. If you can remove the handle from the knife, you can lay sandpaper on the flat surface and run the blade against the sandpaper. Else, you'll need a small piece of glass with the sandpaper taped to it - and run it against the blade surface. As per usual with metal, you'll be wet-sanding, and you'll need to start with a low enough grit that you can actually remove some material. Probably something like 220 - and then of course work your way up thru 2000 or so, and then onto polish.

[@sonkekoster3105]

Great job!

[@shadowremorse]

some guy, in the knives facebook group i am in, got a sponge that has a buffing surface from daiso (dollar store in singapore) and it worked magic apparently