The BEST Tip for Scraping Guitar Bindings

[@enriquemcmusic]

Genius!!! You saved my project and I haven't even started!

[@BradAngove]

Glad I could help

[@Voartist]

Sometimes the "homemade" tools and tips are the best. This one is a great tip....and cheap. Thanks Brad!

[@BradAngove]

Cheers

[@peterjohnson4932]

Wow this is genius! So simple yet effective. One of those "Why didn't I think of that?" ideas. Thanks so much Brad. Turns out I'm about to refinish an old Les Paul copy. Based on the custom, so bound neck, front and back body binding. This is really going to help - a lot!

[@BradAngove]

Glad I could help

[@PlanetTelex2]

Perfect timing! I have to scrape my first Tele build binding, and I've been too nervous to start. Thanks Brad!

[@BradAngove]

Glad I could help

[@rabrown22000]

Looking forward to seeing how you do those f holes.

[@bluesbubba7429]

Thanks Brad, that's a fantastic technique. I really appreciate it. My binding is a slightly lower than the body, therefore I foresee scraping more paint possibly, but I feel I can clean it up with slight sanding on the imperfections before clear coating.

[@richardhinton4232]

Thanks I'll definitely be watching this video a few times when I make my next Les Paul build

[@BradAngove]

I hope it goes well.

[@normbarrows]

Way cool. Instant binding scraper tool. put the wood in a vise, hold the blade with needlenose, tap gently with hammer - probably safer. With that thing you're faster than the ladies at the Gibson factory! There's a reason why this is my #1 goto channel for guitar finishing - info like this. Excellent as always, Mr Angove. Keep up the good work.

[@BradAngove]

Thanks Norm

[@robhensel2097]

Brother, this is a game changer. I just refinished a Les Paul. Tried scraping it with just a blade. Instant disappointment. Watching this is making my work precise and headache free. Thank you for this!!

[@BradAngove]

Glad I could help Rob

[@danandratis]

I like it when you show us your little tool.

[@BradAngove]

That’s what she said.

[@DeeTee79]

Cheers. I just primed my guitar and couldn’t be bothered taping off the 1mm binding on the front.

[@ricksigurdson2016]

I use the dowel lengthwise and slightly round over the end. I do everything else the same. I use a fret hammer to tap in the blade. Dowel is longer then the blade.

[@peterjohnson4932]

Great extra tip Rick, Thanks!

[@JNMAC666]

You are awesome! So much excellent information to be had. Brad has given me and education and given me confidence and real actual skill. From his heart to us. Keep it up!

[@BradAngove]

Glad to hear you’ve found my work helpful.

[@pops71]

Great idea! I’ve seen those made with a slotted hardwood dowel and a screw to adjust the “exposure “.

[@BradAngove]

Very interesting concept!

[@timmakespizza]

Such a great tip, thanks Brad!!

[@BradAngove]

Cheers Tim

[@SweetTGuitars]

Great tip brother. I've debated this topic internally many times. If dealing with a hard square side like you are dealing with even a square block will work as well. Awesome. Thanks for sharing!

[@BradAngove]

Thank you!

[@johngrant5749]

I’d recommend taping over the remaining blade for extra safety.

[@_mysilentblue2227]

Yep and add a drop of hot glue on each side to keep the blades from moving.

[@BradAngove]

Those are good options. Thanks guys.

[@wabisabi6875]

Very helpful indeed, thanks!

[@terrorbirds9835]

You’ve been doing amazing videos on KZbin for a long time while somehow not being a douchey KZbin guy. Thanks a million 🤟🤟🤟🤟

[@BradAngove]

That’s an interesting compliment haha. I’ll take it.

[@TheAxe4Ever]

Simple. Effective. Brilliant!

[@kennymac58]

Exacto makes a saw with a thin kerf. Use it for the slot.

[@peterbradley3363]

Thankyou so much for this tip

[@Nightwinflyer]

Fantastic tip...unfortunately it comes a month too late for my build! Oh well, my next one has a maple top with no binding.

[@BradAngove]

There will be more opportunities I’m sure!

[@kennethnielsen3864]

Thanks for the tip.

[@helmutentzminger2969]

Thanks, great idea!

[@georgeezzell4474]

A great tip.

[@stu-j]

I normally just use tape on the blade but I will definitely try this way of doing it and it looks much simpler than risking it with just tape and a steady hand! Cheers Brad great tip brother..... and its looking absolutely stunning nice and dark like a vintage sunburst should look!

[@BradAngove]

Thanks Stu! Glad you like it.

[@dinkeredwards5187]

[@markbundy1694]

Nice Watch👍🤘🏼

[@melchiando]

I just bought an older tele and someone sanded and removed the binding on the neck. Owe how I appreciate that one! Guest I'm gonna have to do my first neck binding job. When I first saw your headline, I was like " why are people removing the binding on their guitars. They did put a sweet puffy cloud paint job on it tho

[@BradAngove]

An involuntary binding job hey? Classic.

[@melchiando]

@@BradAngove exactly what I thought , how nice of them. I hate binding on my guitars

[@DT-ml3xv]

Unbelievable how much better that finish looks in this video. Is it because of the polish or just the lighting?

[@BradAngove]

Just lighting. It isn’t even clear coated yet. The spray room is very poorly lit for this sort of thing.

[@knotmcdavid9784]

I primered over the chrome string rings on the back of my telecaster. I want to scrape them before I paint adn or cover them before paint ... ? too small for dowl... suggestions

[@BradAngove]

The ferrules? Just remove them and put little balls of tape in the holes to avoid getting a bunch of paint in there.

[@SkyscraperGuitars]

Great tip Brad.

[@BradAngove]

Thank you

[@psp777]

Do you have a video for painting head stocks, making a logo, and hiding lines with clear coat? Some use waterslide decals, some silkscreen to avoid edges showing on the decal.

[@BradAngove]

I have a video on how to build a thick coat of clear. That’s the same info for burying decal lines.

[@briansimpson8116]

I KNEW IT!!!⏪⏩😂😂 Great video. I wish you were a school teacher. It would benefit kids in the Empire of Canadia. 🇨🇦 EH!

[@BradAngove]

I highly doubt that would be to anyone’s benefit haha.

[@ehambright]

Thank you!!

[@zombiedigs101]

Tip!!! Use wide clear packing tape. Put over F hole. Use thin cutting blade to cut off excess tape. Leaving hole covered. Works good comes off easy no scraping f holes.

[@BradAngove]

Nice

[@johnpeters211]

Two questions for you which you may have mentioned in the other videos and I missed it. How long do you wait after spraying color to remove the tape? How long do you wait to scrape the bindings? Thanks.

[@BradAngove]

It doesn’t matter much with lacquer because it dries so quick. I think I did it the next day.

[@Woodsywolfman]

This is great. Just discovered your videos. But in my case, I’m trying to “restore” painted “binding” on an inexpensive guitar I’m restoring (it has Peter Yarrow’s autograph-from Peter, Paul and Mary fame). It’s just black paint and I don’t have the facilities to rout a proper binding channel (even though I do have real binding and purfling). After fixing all the other issues, any suggestions for replacing the fake binding? Thank you.

[@BradAngove]

Does it just need touch ups? Maybe you can just tape off and spray from the side.

[@Woodsywolfman]

@BradAngove Unfortunately, it needs more than touch-ups (separating plywood and other issues). I restore stringed instruments (without an actual "shop" and professional power tools). But I'd like to do what I can to make it more presentable, even if it's not going to totally come back to life, as it were.

[@BradAngove]

Ok, well unless you know how to do pin-striping your essentially going to have to tape the rest of the guitar so only the binding area is exposed, so any filler/glue work you need, sand that area and paint it.

[@learningisgrowing]

What's the purpose of scraping the binding? Can you do this for ageing/yellowed guitars that have been exposed to fluro lights? Cheers

[@BradAngove]

It’s to remove paint. I suspect you could probably scrape off the yellowing and it would look restored.

[@learningisgrowing]

@@BradAngove thanks for replying Brad

[@musicbill]

You could use a piece of cork it would be a little easier to get the blade in

[@BradAngove]

Yes. The only issue I foresee with that is it potentially gripping the side of the guitar a bit, but that may not be an issue at all.

[@musicbill]

@@BradAngove I didnt think of that. You may be right

[@BradAngove]

I’ve certainly never tried it. But you could get around it easily by wrapping a piece of tape around the cork. Great idea.

[@thefahj-122]

how do you keep overspray going in the "f" holes?

[@rossco-dps5392]

Scrunch up some paper and push it in there. That's how I did it on a telecaster thinline build.

[@BradAngove]

I’ve never bothered to try, but if I had to I would probably just put a couple pieces of paper in there and carefully secure them with tape so I can get them out later.

[@pinktacoluvr]

I believe it's called "The Stranger" when you use your non-dominant hand. 😂 Otherwise, this seems to be a great alternative to using tape on the blade. 👍🏼

[@BradAngove]

I thought you had to sit on your hand until it went numb for it to be the stranger… I hate unnecessary steps…

[@youtubecommentor4480]

Perhaps I’m missing something. Can you please help me to understand why you didn’t scrape the binding (to level it with the top) ‘before’ you stained/sprayed the top color(s)? Or is this scraping simply called, ‘finish scraping’ the paint/stain off the binding? Thank you for this great tip!

[@BradAngove]

I’m just taking the paint off the binding. It was already leveled off when the kit showed up.

[@youtubecommentor4480]

@@BradAngove … ok Brad, thanks for helping me understand.

[@addman34555]

is it better to scrape when the paint binding has cured, or when its still soft?

[@BradAngove]

Either way is fine. I usually let it dry quite well before scraping.

[@decomputerleraarable]

Very skillfull. how you get from a bindingscraper to an affiliate link. Rob

[@BradAngove]

You mean the link for the guitar kit? Are you ok Rob?

[@CntBckt]

When it comes to scraping, are there any differences in technique when using different finishing materials? For instance, what special would you need to keep in mind when using nitro lacquer vs poly and stuff?

[@BradAngove]

No difference.

[@stephenbarton2625]

Hi Brad! About how long did you wait after spraying before scraping this binding? Love this tip by the way.

[@BradAngove]

I believe it was a couple days.

[@larrywhitley3359]

Hey Brad, I was wondering, do you prefer to assemble the neck too the body before finishing or after? I also would like too know, if the threaded hook you use for hanging to finish has ever caused a problem in the wood for the strap button? One other thing I live in Oklahoma, and I have a guitar ready for the clear coat, using nitrocellulose. The humidity here has been 60% and higher. Can I in your wisdom, apply the clear coat with humidity that high or higher? If so do you have any recommendations to offer so that I can be successful? I have been waiting for the humidity to drop but it’s just not happening. I know that’s a lot of questions and I apologize for that. Your friend Larry. Thank you.

[@BradAngove]

I assemble first. The hook is the same size screw as the strap button, so no issue. To remove extra humidity you can use an air conditioner or dehumidifier. You can add a bit of retarder to get away with slightly higher humidities though.

[@ramirogonzalez1048]

Super nice video Brad! as always!, thanks a lot! just a question about the order of these tasks if I need to paint and bind a guitar. I mean: Paint solid color, then, binding, then, scrapping and then clear coats? or should I paint solid color and after then binding? Thanks!

[@BradAngove]

I’m not sure I understand. Are you painting a binding? I tape the binding, then paint the guitar, then scrape the binding, then clear coat.

[@ramirogonzalez1048]

@@BradAngove Perfect! I am viewing another video from you and it is clear! Is exactly the way soy mentioned! Thanks

[@jedn6488]

I think he’s asking how to get the binding flush. Do you paint then put binding on and then scrape flush and clear coat? You are saying binding, tape off, paint and scrape. I have the same question… when you do that do you allow the paint to overspray on the binding and then scrape that paint off the binding to get it flush? Or do you try to scrape up to the edge without messing up the paint finish How to insure its perfectly flush before clear coat?

[@BradAngove]

I would put the binding on first, then tape and paint or paint and scrape. Then clear coat over the binding. It may not be perfectly flush but should be close. You can even it out in the clear coat stages.

[@davidolsen9425]

Hi. What tape did you use to mark the side binding?

[@BradAngove]

1/8” orange fineline tape.

[@fluidalchemist68]

Brad, you've been a great help again. Thank You. May I ask, if you were to have binding at the base of a top round over, or chamfer, how would you scrape it? I realise not many guitars have binding and roundovers/chamfers, BUT, I think it looks killer and I am planning making a few, however safely scraping in this configuration seems to be a challenge. Any ideas ? Thanks as usual.

[@BradAngove]

Might have to opt for a curved cabinet scraper if you’re planning on having your binding flow into a curve like that.

[@fluidalchemist68]

@@BradAngove That's a great idea, thanks Brad as always, what would we do without you man!!!

[@karllongbottomguitars9192]

How long do you leave it after spraying until you start scraping , thanks

[@BradAngove]

I left this a couple days but with lacquer it can happen sooner.

[@mattliebenau9083]

Great tip. I wish you would’ve put this video out a couple weeks ago when I had binding to scrape. I’m sure it would have resulted in much less cussing and swearing.

[@BradAngove]

Swearing at it is half the fun though right?

[@vincent33195]

Hey Brad- I’ve heard of folks using some type of sealer on the binding and then using pinstripe tape. I think Derek at Big D mentions it in one of his vids. Do you know exactly what would be used to help prevent dye from bleeding for both plastic binding and faux wood binding? Thanks as always!

[@BradAngove]

The sealer is important on a faux binding that is just wood. That is there to help prevent dye bleeding into the wood binding. It’s not an issue on a plastic binding.

[@WeAllFloatHere]

Was the body sealed before doing this? I'm about to clean up my first guitar I've sprayed with binding and am thinking of trying this method, but I'm nervous that the dowel (or whatever type of wood I'll use) will run against the paint and scrape off some of the paint I sprayed. Is this something I should worry about?

[@BradAngove]

Yes it was sealed and painted, but not clear coated yet. I did that after. I haven’t encountered an issue with the dowel scraping the paint, but you do need to be reasonably careful.

[@WeAllFloatHere]

@@BradAngove thank you! I was able to do it. I had some skips of the blade and had to touch it up, but overall, it worked and i learned a lot for the next one 🙏🏻 will definitely keep using the dowel trick!

[@AsterianGuitars]

Great tip. What I noticed off topic.. its really unusual looking electric sockets on the wall. I just wonder, why each country making it different way. EU, US, UK .. everyone

[@BradAngove]

Good question. I know I hate buying adaptors when I go over seas.

[@ricksigurdson2016]

Blame the electrical engineers

[@Beemerboy324]

I hold the blade in with a bit of super glue if the dowel is soft.

[@BradAngove]

Good idea

[@matjazrems4781]

niceee, guitar maker M.Rems, Slovenia EU

[@joederuvo5484]

I’m going to be doing this on my solo tele kit. But am I crazy in saying it looks like my binding is wood not plastic?

[@BradAngove]

It’s plausible. Did it say anything about that in the description when you bought it?

[@joederuvo5484]

@@BradAngove no, didn’t say anything about the binding at all. I know you’ve done a lot of them. Has the binding always been plastic on yours?

[@BradAngove]

Yes, mine have always been plastic from solo.

[@biggstile]

Is taping binding harder than scraping after lacquer redoing?

[@BradAngove]

It comes down to preference. I started out taping, then stopped, and now I’ve gone back to it. It’s less risky at least.

[@biggstile]

@@BradAngove Thank you. I thought it was legit both ways, too.

[@DrRJE80]

F holes suck...and be careful with the top too! If you scraped too much and it gets too thin on the sides, you can cut into the finish when you get to the top. Great tip though. I'm gunna do it!

[@clarkkent981]

Should I pain first the guitar? Or applying the biding first? What is your recommendation

[@BradAngove]

Binding first. Otherwise you are likely to screw up your paint while adding it.

[@clarkkent981]

@@BradAngove thanks bro ✌️👍

[@richsackett3423]

Do you plan to scrape the clear off the binding also? I'm finishing up a 175-style kit and can't decide.

[@BradAngove]

No, I want the clear to be smooth everywhere so I won’t be scraping it.

[@richsackett3423]

@@BradAngove Excellent. What a relief. Tiny disappointment from not making and using your gadget. I'm sure it'll come up again.

[@minusthesean]

@Brad - what's the trick to scraping the f-hole bindings? Such a tease to post a video of you scraping a 335 but didn't show how you do the f-holes, you dog haha.

[@BradAngove]

It’s the same trick for the areas where this tool will fit. Where it won’t I just use a hobby knife and carefully scrape it by hand.

[@TristanJCumpole]

I'd want the tool to be reusable and adjustable. In that respect I'll likely use a fretsaw to create a kerf in a dowel, fill that out with a softer material like ABS binding or even a bit of leather. Maybe even adding in a set screw on one side to cinch the blade when in place. Also, "for cheap" isn't a thing....it's "cheaply". I do a fair amount of copywriting and proofing work and this drives me nuts! (insert pirate joke here, yarr) Cheers!

[@kjemradio]

Far cheaper than a StewMac scraper and more adjustable!

[@stewc625]

Rather than a dowel, how about a wine cork?

[@BradAngove]

My only concern with that is the blade slipping to expose more blade too easily, but I haven’t tested it so that concern may be unwarranted.

[@dwashbur]

You need to develop that into an actual adjustable tool, then tell me where I can buy one!

[@thomasmoxley4862]

Never push/pull a razor towards your flesh.

[@BradAngove]

Haha I take it you don’t use scrapers?

[@cuinoz3569]

Thanks for the tip.

[@BradAngove]

Cheers