The best tyres for overland travel (at least in my book)

I use skinny, tubed tyres on my expedition Defender 90. Why the unconventional choice? Watch this video and learn why this works for me.
I bought the inner tubes referred to in this video from
www.EliteTubeAndTyre.com

[@Silo485]

Finally, someone in the 4x4 community who is practical and gets to the point!

[@92fitty]

as a fellow overlander, I can say with certainty, I have never seen video in which so much common sense was obvious. Thank you, I agree with every conclusion you came to. One additional point on tyres is the availability of a replacement in remote areas. You will always find standard tyres in Africa where Land Rovers still abound but over large specialist tyres are impossible to find.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Thanks for your kind comments Colin As for replacement tyres, if you have sensibly sized rims you can always buy a pair of nearly matching tyres to fit. From memory 235/80R16 have the same OD as the 7.50R16 which I use, and they are a very common size. You made a good point.

[@Jakexx01]

It's about time that someone chose to create an excellently presented video built around a sound understanding of physics, years of firsthand experience and a foundation of common sense. Not to mention the fact that caring what absolute strangers think and say about one's opinions is so often fueled by those who merely regurgitate the utterances of the inexperienced and uneducated. Thank you, Sir!

[@stevenq3840]

Another great video, thank you for sharing real facts.

[@louiswilliamhicks]

If KZbin had more videos like this, it would be a much better place to get advice. There were a lot of things covered most wouldn't think of or be aware of and it was very valuable. I also don't fit unnecessary parts or large tyres. I work off what I need and what will be reliable, both in itself and how it will affect the longterm reliability of the vehicle. I myself chose Falken WildPeak AT Trail, in OEM size and rating, which fitted to my 18inch OEM wheels and carried a minimal weight penalty. This means less risk to the diff and gearbox over time. They also have a stronger sidewall than the OEM tyres. You sir just got a Like and a new Subscriber! Haha. All the best

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Thanks for your comments. I find that OEM spec caters for most situations I encounter and I do travel widely.

[@louiswilliamhicks]

@@defendermodsandtravels I have only had a quick look at your list of videos, but I already envy the travelling you've been able to do and hopefully in time I will achieve something close to that. All the best, and safe travels.

[@NathanNostaw]

Some great advice here. Very sound tips for reliability. Thanks for a great video.

[@ianparsons8894]

Thanks for a well thought, logical video explaining the benefits. It seems the only arguments for expensive wide tyres are aesthetics and floatation which isn’t required for majority of vehicles. If it’s a purpose built rock crawler or snow travel vehicle that’s different but for over landing, touring and general 4WDing, skinny tyres and steel rims work best.

[@Sam.campbelll]

You sir are a legend. I salute you for your knowledge and enthusiasm. Thank you for sharing.

[@fabiohaddad2531]

Totally agree with you sir. Thank you for the lessons!

[@gnarkillgnarkill7725]

best opinions iv heard !! you are a gentleman and a scholar, thank you

[@EWOverland]

Impresive and sincer video, definitivle apreciate thanks for sharing and waiting for more

[@georgeali7189]

Learned something today never knew about the tube type tyre and the other use for a hilift jack. Thank you sir.

[@Don2264]

Thank you for your efforts and God bless! Well done.

[@luizrobertoandrade]

thank you very much. Today I received a magnificent class from you. I believe that you are very correct.

[@DR.LUIGGI]

This is an amazing video! Great job! thank you for sharing! you made a documentary of 19 mins!

[@nealesmith1873]

Great video! I once had a 1943 GPW with 7.50 x 16 tube tyres! Brings back some great memories.

[@jamesfuller5379]

I very much agree. I keep things as standard and light as possible. I've recently taken quite a liking to Bridgestone AT001 tyres, well worth a look but tubeless only. I'm happy with my set up but I still enjoy watching videos like this as you never know what you will pick up. I had never thought about adding tpms but I will now.

[@NJBH100]

Amazing knowledge, awesome videos

[@fenby1976]

I used those Goodyear Wrangler Radial MT tyres on my SIII for several years for use in daily driving and greenlaning. They lasted very well and were fine for 99% of greenlanes. I've used Michelin XZLs in that size too and they only lasted a fraction of the time before they were worn out. I did like them though. Road handling and off road performance were good.

[@federicoacker5672]

Thank you very much Sir, for sharing your knowledge and experience, new channel added to my list. Kind Regards

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Welcome to the small club of rational overlanders Federico

[@paul_t_kendall]

Thanks from Heber City Utah. Solid info!

[@shankarbalan3813]

Solid common sense Sir. Thank you so much.

[@pedroc7925]

I´m preparing a expedition around Marocco and found just what I needed; a good advice from a guy who has actual experience. Thank you very much good sir!

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Any questions please ask and I'll be happy to share my experience. What vehicle are you going in?

[@derekarcher8495]

Great video mate! Well thought out and logical advice. I've been running wide tyres and rims on my Hilux for years and can't say I have enjoyed any advantage. After careful consideration, I'm going back to standard tyres on split rims. Keep up the great work with the vids and safe travels!

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Thanks for the comment. Currently on a trip to SE Asia but without the Defender which I'm preparing for an expedition to southern Africa later this year. I did a lot of off road travel in Spain and Portugal this winter. I didn't get bogged once and I am happy with the choice of tyres. Good travels friend!

[@Africasideways]

Great vid kind Sir!

[@defendermodsandtravels]

I guess that's Gregory? Many thanks for the positive comment.

[@xochj]

Absolutely solid advice.

[@beecee1235]

Thanks so much for your videos. Before I saw them I was beginning to think I was slowly going mad. "why am I the only lemming to be able to see the cliff" :) But now, I may have found a kindred spirit. I'm a great believer in "the manufacturer PROBABLY knows best" they may have had a reason for the design, so have a little think for yourself from a logical engineering point of view. Thanks again. Keep up the great videos.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Agree with you. Furthermore I am running standard shocks on my vehicles which to many 4x4 owners is heresy. Perfectly adequate for general overlanding with occasional demanding off road sections.

[@joekresan8990]

I love this bloke. Cheers mate

[@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures]

Good video! I put alloy rims on the defender in Australia for the Western Walkabout series and 2 of them developed little splits from a heavy load and rough roads. I’ll be down grading back to steel if I ever return to my homeland. Great channel.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

I find this comment amusing. There were howls of protest fom Stephan Fischer of All Offroad Adventures (comment below) that alloy wheels were usually more robust than steel. Your experience was obviously different. I haven't used alloy wheels off road but I wouldn't trust them for a demanding trip.

[@ForemanAndWilmsAdventures]

@@defendermodsandtravels I can only vouch for my own experience using standard quality rims, maybe there are high budget super duper ones but us defender owners don’t usually go down that route or we’d own range rovers.

[@tiakontikiadventures1536]

Thankyou for a very well informed vlog. I throughly enjoyed the layout and the presentation. How have I not come across you before? I have a 1997 Discovery 300tdi, owned her since 1998. Consider a new subscriber! Excellent!

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Thanks for the comments. This is a hobby channel and I don't chase subscribers. It's a small club for those who like a commonsense approach with a sound technical basis. My daily driver is a Disco 1 which started to feature in my rustproofing series of videos.

[@yukonica4560]

I genuinely miss my 88 series 2a... One vehicle I should never have let go. Thank you for the video. Wranglers are the 'poop' but become pucks at -25C.

[@ro...valverde1622]

I like Goodyear's Duratracs they are a good mix between AT and MT tread and I love the look

[@kisbushcraftdownunder]

You are bang on correct about breaking traction before the vehicle I watched a demo on a Landcruiser on concrete with twin locked differentials spinning all four wheels as the engineer said the vehicle design everything was stronger than the contact of the tyres

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Very interesting. Sound engineering design.

[@zayas6999]

damn, this dude is awesome. so much experience in what he talks about

[@defendermodsandtravels]

...but this dude is just a dude actually :-)

[@adelarsen9776]

1) Skinny steel rims and tyres are best. 2) High profile square edged tyres are best to prevent staking in the side wall. 3) Mud tyres (in radial form) have open cleats which assist in catching stakes and helping drive them in causing a puncture. It's hard to drive a stake through a tread block and a carcass but it's easy to drive a stake between open wide tread blocks and through a carcass. 4) Tyres which are road oriented with closed tread blocks are much more puncture resistant. 5) When a vehicle needs to suddenly stop on a bitumen road, all terrain and road-oriented tread patterned tyres allow good braking and control. Mud tyres are dangerous on wet, icey and greasy bitumen. 6) Good suspension and differential locks get you further with bald tyres than big mud tyres and awful suspension and no diff locks. 7) For most people in the western world (first world) tubeless tyres are the best. Having an ARB Speedy Seal kit is essential as is a compressor. 8) If you're travelling across the central asian steppe for 6 months then you might want to consider skinny Cross Ply tyres in 8,10,12,14,16 ply for puncture resistance. MRF brand are good. 9) If you do run split rims and tubes you should carry quality Michelin or Bridgestone tubes. Quality tubes make all the difference - and keep them clean. 10) 90% of punctures are caused by either poor quality tubes or poor/unclean fitment. Even too much Talc can collect and go hard and wear a hole in a tube. Don't over do it. 11) Tip for new players : Only buy tyre levers from the tyre industry. Don't buy them from an Auto Store - they are rubbish. Poor man buys twice. Cheap tyre levers break and bend. 12) The 4wd magazines are all sponsored by the tyre manufacturers. Tyre shops want to sell tyres with profit so they sell you what's popular. 13) The best tyres are boring, plain, un-cool skinny tyres of LT design with a road oriented tread. NB : I wouldn't listen to anyone from SA when it comes to overland cross country driving. There is no experts on You Tube. 14) The first thing a 4wd needs is an air compressor - not a set of tyres.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Many thanks for sharing your great knowledge on this subject.

[@GraveBlashyrkh]

Ade Larsen can you recommend good tires according to your experience?

[@adelarsen9776]

@@GraveBlashyrkh Yes I can. 1) Tough strong Radial tyres are made by Bridgestone in Japan and must use tubes. Here's the model numbers and ply rating : a) Bridgestone M857 14 ply and 8 ply b) Bridgestone G530 14 ply c) Bridgestone R205 12 Ply 2) Otani Tyres from Thailand. Excellent Cross/Bias ply tyres for tubes. Extreme stake resistance and tough as nails a) S 78 Xtra Grip 14 ply b) S 70 Xtra Grip 14 ply c) U 068 16 ply 3) MRF tyres from India. Excellent Cross/Bias ply for tubes. Really tough. a) M77 14 ply b) Super Traction 12 ply c) Hwy 14 ply d) Super Lug 16 ply Various sizes available but all above come in 7.50x16. All these tyres listed above I have current and personal experience with over decades. They are normally a lot cheaper than useless brand name mud tyres. Be aware of speed rating, ADR and insurance when you fit cross ply tyres to your vehicle. Remember, it is suspension and difflocks that take you a lot further than any tyre tread pattern. The tyres listed above are for serious off-track, off-highway, on-farm use. These tyres are available all around the world. Hope this gives you what you need. Cheers.

[@GraveBlashyrkh]

@Ade Larsen thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience on tyres. I mainly used all terrain models until now, since I have mainly road and mud use(not heavy offroading). One shouldn't rely too much on diff locks but more so on driving skill. They help with tough situations though

[@adelarsen9776]

@@GraveBlashyrkh If you're only driving on tracks that others have been on then just use your regular tyres. If you are overlanding and driving across the Mid Asia Step or through the deserts of Australia and Africa you need these tough tyres. If you're a miner or surveyor then you need these tyres. Going to the local 4wd park you don't need these tyres.

[@IAm1InTheIAm]

Bloody good show, Old Chap. I drive almost exclusively off the road here in Alaska, and so I like the more aggressive all terrain radial tyres with a little less pressure in them, so the sharp bedrock doesn't shred them as easily, and the traction in steep terrain is better. OEM steel rims and tall skinnies work for my old llA. Pip pip 👍

[@andrewmoroney2381]

That was a great video, thanks

[@andysparks8245]

Just discovered your channel and loving it. I also watch other channels but to be honest purely for the Starship Enterprise approach to Overlanding which is unacheivable for me, but it's entertaining. However your channel is far more grounded and "real world". I don't have £100k to spend on an overlanding vehicle and then be frightened of scratching it...... I could go on.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Thanks for the comment. Yes I am very grounded. If you want to go overlanding on the cheap buy a good example of any of the older 4x4s - Defender, Pajero, Patrol, Jeep, it doesn't matter. Outfit it cheaply and you"re away. For practical advice I recommend The Road Chose Me channel.The guy has done some serious travel and has a very functional approach. Good luck with your future travels.

[@enduranceadventure8057]

Absolutely spot on advice! I’m currently using Continental Cross Contact AT which came as standard on my Defender Puma and they are great! Priced well they have lasted 3 years and I’ve just bought another set! Wheel and Tyre weight is something not fully considered! I have Land Rover Wolf Rims a Standard Steel! The standard is super capable and much easier to handle. Another great video!

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Yep and what's more wheel/tyre weight is unsprung weight. My previous video on vehicle dynamics is currently down for re-work but it shows that the effect of unsprung weight on various aspects of the vehicle performance is dramatic. I am unfamiliar with the Contis but will look out for them.

[@1danny2k]

Continental cross contacts are famous here in india too. They easily last 100k kms a set. Not shabby offroad as well.

[@robertsegura6451]

Thats what I like about you, your to the point nothing fancy just what works best. You sort of remind me of this other youtuber called , The Road Chose Me.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Yes Dan Grec. I used to follow his channel too but lost track of it.

[@vic6820]

Another excellent tyre is the Cooper st maxx. I have the 235/85 and they're the best I've had.

[@andrewjjhalliday]

Another great video

[@defendermodsandtravels]

I have read that comment before somewhere :-)

[@petermenzies1714]

Agree with everything you said, because it is my experience also.

[@deriusnorris4463]

Thanks a million. Great video. Got the vehicle with big tyres 275/75/16 but will be going smaller when the time comes for a change(the tyres are expensive regardless of size).

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Look at the OEM tyres first because the manufacturers know what they are doing. If you have added weight to the vehicle you might decide to go up one size but I wouldn't go beyond that. For any given tread width you should always go for the highest profile available for the best off road performance.

[@deriusnorris4463]

@@defendermodsandtravels thanks for that info

[@roycraggs3822]

Good to hear advice from someone with actual experience of the practicalities involved. I would agree that looks above function are a common factor with wheels and tyres. 750 x 16 (or equivalent) is the optimum size for my 110 and it looks good on a Discovery 1 too. Also agree on the Goodyear Wranglers as a good general purpose tyre in this size, although mud terrains are the best if permanently in muddy conditions. Another good tyre for mixed use is the BF Goodrich AT, with good road manners and it gets good mileage.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

I find that 7.50 R16s are perfectly adequate for most conditions. Unfortunately the Wrangler ATs are no longer available in that size so I'll shortly need to find an alternative. One of my biggest problems with large wheels / tyres is their weight. I have made a nifty handling aid to help with this which will be the subject of a future video.

[@roycraggs3822]

@@defendermodsandtravels I look forward to seeing that. I guess the nearest equivalent size to 750 R16 would be 235/85 R16?

[@Tillerman56]

The breaking of the swivel of GrizzlyNbear's front axle was related to a production fault in these front axles of early Puma Defenders. I've seen a similar breakdown with the same story somewhere else. I only found this out after I acquired a 2008 Puma.... Great channel, by the way. Nothing better than experience.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

It's a while since I did the video on the failure of the swivel on the G&B front axle but I recall that it seemed to have a pre-existing flaw at the knuckle which is most likely the production fault you refer to. The wider wheels and spacers will have contributed greatly to the growth and final failure of this flaw (remembering that the crack growth rate varies with > stress range cubed). With standard tyres and no spacers it's quite likely that the flaw would never have developed into a fatigue crack.

[@Jabber-ig3iw]

The large tyres and spacers they were running at the time will have majorly contributed to that failure.

[@pinkpotato1]

I've seen the same thing happen to a td5 running 35" tyres. Its not a puma fault only.

[@erikstodene4370]

great video!!!

[@samanshafigh]

I love this video, it is a gold

[@michaelterreblanche537]

I overland in southern afrika and replaced my alloys with steel rims due to pothole damage. Also I found narrower tires give a better turning circle and better fuel consumption. Wider tyres did not work for me as well as the narrower tyres, I am currently running 7.50R16 on my Defender. Thanks for your video with great points to consider.

[@davidsingleton7242]

Hi I run a 1993 110 Defender fitted with 7.5 x 16 Michelin XZL tyres and which does probably 90% of its time on road as my daily driver and 10% towing a 10 foot twin axle flatbed trailer loaded with 2x round hay bales into and out of fields during the winter months for feeding livestock. in my experience I find them to be well mannered on road with good grip in wet or dry conditions and also reliable at getting across wet fields even with the trailer attached. Mileage wise I regularly get approx 45,000 miles out of the fronts and 50,000 miles from the rears. Yes they are a bit noisy on the road but lets face it, I'm not driving a Rolls Royce who used to market their cars by saying that the only noise you would hear when driving them was the clock ticking! and I have the reassurance that I am not going to be stuck in the middle of a field in the middle of winter with a trailer full of hay.

[@peterjohnson2245]

Always run a 7.50 or 235/85 in the 30yrs of landrovers. The track edge was a brilliant tyre grip wise but i felt they suffered with a side wall that was easily damaged. I agree with the XZL and recently put another set of 7.50s, they are noisy but never had an issue with grip on or off road or in snow. Given there has been a lot of progress by other in the AT area I think for the next set I will look for something in that range too. I do like you bead breaker for the high lift jack, that's a nice idea.

[@hammyh1165]

Trac edge was the best tyre BFG made , we used them extensively on our Landys for corporate off-road days with no issues. They used to last forever wear wise too.

[@andrewberzins752]

Enjoyed the insights, not doing a lot of overlanding but travelling a lot on unpaved roads so I'll be looking into all the points. Might seem a little superficial, but the Michelin XZL do look good on a 90...which is a non-essential extra overlanding.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

I need to buy some XZLs for an upcoming trip and they are a wicked price these days - around £180 each, fitted. However I want matching tyres and wouldn't contemplate non-premium tyres so I must just grin and bear it.

[@Echicere]

Uno de los mejores canales que he visto

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Gracias senhor,

[@angusabbott5615]

Great video

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Thanks. Just commonsense to me. I have just fitted a set of 7.50 R16 Michelin XZ mud terrains, quite expensive but ideal for my coming trip to southern Africa.

[@Alexmouseuk]

The British Trans Americas expedition famously knackered their Range Rovers with big tyres and wheels.

[@hitekredneck109]

I have a 1982 chevy k5 blazer. I dont overland with it but I do some mild to moderate off road. It weighs about 4500lbs. It has a 4" lift kit and 35x12.5 mud/snows on steelies....mostly mud (it's how I bought it). #1 bling/chrome dont get you home and #2. When it comes time to replace the tires I will be installing something skinnier......skinny tires cut deep into the ground and find traction PLUS they handle much better on the road and put much less stress on the axles and front end components. Save your $$ on fat tires and instead get s really good winch because I dont care what tires you have, you WILL get stuck somewhere eventually!!!

[@adrianianna2868]

Here in Australia we have a lot of sand. Lots of low pressure work . The friction with tubed tyres is just not worth it .

[@carolyndavis4517]

im 62 years old and have been offroad touring , overlanding in oz and the usa for 40 years , i have owned my 110 for the last 20years . for the last 15 ive switched to no tubes in a tubeless tyre on tubed original rim . bfg mudies ,10ply and have run at 10psi on the sand . tyre retailers say not to do this but i have only had 1 come offf the rim [ rubicon trail usa ] . i do a lot of sand/beach driving and the tubes would wear out from the inside due to low pressures. so 10 ply tubeless on tubed standard rims not exactly legal but with carefull driving will work the best

[@jasonneugebauer5310]

Here's aamaising recommendation for getting tires off the beed very easily. Use silicone grease on the bead. You will be able to get the tire off the beed by stepping on it when the air is removed, no matter how long the tire is left on the rim.. I started doing this with aircraft tires because it was taking us hours to get them off the rims even with hydraulic tools made to break the beed. I started putting a thin coat of silicone grease on the rim where the beed is. The silicone grease protects the metal from corrosion and the rubber from degradation. The tire may slip on the rim half a turn or so if you apply more than a very thin coat, which is a good sign when you are using tubeless tires that the tire is going to come off great when needed. If you are using a tube, I would recommend a very thin coat of silicone grease. Silicone grease is the most amazing thing I have seen for facilitating an easy repair or replacement of a tire. It keeps the bead aria like new and effortless to remove.

[@angusabbott5615]

Good video

[@dominicbaylis622]

that was a very informative report on tyres as I Run my Pagero mk 2 on BF Goodrich and they have served me well apart from one out of the batch that has let me down for 4 years, even though all the tyres were fitted 10 years ago ,now I need to get 2new bf Goodrich for the front at least around 400,00 pounds , Ilike this tyre and has served me well .any help as money is struggle I need 2 Bf Goodrich match the rear👍

[@defendermodsandtravels]

£400 per tyre? I recently paid £150 for Michelin 7.50 R16 XZL tyres and thought that was too much.

[@rainerzuehlke501]

I'm a big fan of Landrover Defenders and have used them extensively for professional (geology) and touristic purposes in Iceland and in Africa. However, it is slightly ironic to argue for reliability when leaning against a Defender. Yes, they are relatively easy to repair but reliability is still preferable from my perspective. I do not agree with every point you make but enjoy your videos very much. Most of all your direct style of communication.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Look I am a realist and I fully understand the Defender's faults however if you live in the UK it's so much easier to buy and prepare a Land Rover than any other marque; likewise a Toyota if you live in Africa or Australia, or a Jeep in N. America I send this from the Tankwa Karoo which is a near desert in South Africa. The Defender has taken a battering this year but it will get us home 👍👍 I have a friend who is preparing Hilux in the UK for an expedition. There are few decent accessories available and he had to import a fairly routine spare part from Dubai. It makes no sense.

[@petertwiggable]

Good man. Talking sense.

[@HeinerStorch]

Hi, great vid. Is your 12 item TPM. system the Michelin branded, too?

[@yfelwulf]

Started watching thinking what would this English Git know there is almost no overland areas in the UK and not a great deal in Europe proper. This old hand in a few minutes covered topics that are now under discussion years before any else thought of it. SUBSCRIBED

[@defendermodsandtravels]

This English git isn't quite sure what you are referring to but is pleased you seem to have found the video interesting.

[@typhoon-7]

This is gold. I have owned a 90 (300 Tdi) and a 110 Puma. I now have a Toyota Hilux. I've modified all of them but not OVER modified them as I so often see. The sweet spot for the Hilux is 265/75r16. There are videos on KZbin of people asking and showing how to fit 305/70r16.... You have to regear the thing, chop the body mounts on the chassis to give clearance on full lock... And because they want it to look cool. I am sticking with my 31.5" tyres which work perfectly without all that crap. The old Camel Defenders crossed the planet on smaller rubber didn't they? The best upgrade is the organic thing holding the steering wheel.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

The fact is that for 95% of normal overlanding (as opposed to hardcore offroading) the factory tyres of any competent 4x4 are perfectly adequate. I expand on this theme in my video "Do What the Locals Do". Sure you can do a modest upgrade if you wish but fitting monster tyres creates a slew of problems (including the premature failure of wheel bearings and axles) and is bloody expensive too. Personally I think that most 4x4s with monster tyres look ugly too. I'm glad we agree.

[@typhoon-7]

@@defendermodsandtravels We do. I have a degree in automotive engineering and worked with Aston Martin and McLaren. That's not boasting, it's to illustrate I have some credentials. I've designed cars, suspension and transmissions. Your delivery was spot on.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

@@typhoon-7 You are much more qualified than me clearly. I am a PhD level engineer but always worked in the oil industry (design and construction of offshore platforms). This video channel is just a hobby for me. I don't chase subscribers but I like engaging with those who think alike. I find my viewpoint often differs from the mainstream guys. Vive la difference!

[@typhoon-7]

@@defendermodsandtravels Nice!!! I never got as far as a PhD. I don't think I have the brains for it!

[@srw_cricket2976]

Great video and advice. I have a 1981 Series 3 SWB and I opted for a full set of x5 5.5" steel rims and the Michelin 7.50 XZL R16. I did so much research. Everyone was suggesting the 235 x 85 because they "look good".. I am so pleased with my tyres. On off road days they never let me down whilst others are always getting stuck. Yes not great on the road, especially in the wet but I do very few miles and have lots of fun off road. I think I bought the KABAT inners but can't remember so checking my records.. I vaguely recall reading -ve comments about Air Tight. Once again, great videos. I have a question: Should I be rotating the wheels/tyres as the spare on the bonnet is clearly unused and as I have free wheeling hubs the rears more likely to wear sooner? Only done around 4-500 miles in the last year so I'm guessing if I rotate I should be doing it any time soon?

[@defendermodsandtravels]

I am no expert on rotation of tyres but have found it necessary. On the Defender I found it was the front tyres which wore quicker.

[@Jason-cl8hk]

You make an excellent point but I still like my Cooper STTs that are too wide.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Sure do what works for you but one of the purposes of this video is to argue that it isn't obligatory to fit big, fat tyres to every 4x4 as some commentators would have us believe.

[@57WillysCJ]

My experience comes from driving in extreme weather. I delivered with my vehicle in the early mornig hours before road crews were out fixing washouts or plowing snow. I covered 200 miles per day and that was before cell phones. You learned because you didn't want to walk a long distance in deep snow and bitter cold to find a phone. I found narrow tires did much better not only in deep snow but also wet snow. Wide tires in wet snow pushes it in front of the tire. Depending on the tread pattern, it would stick to the tire which became a snow sock. That cut out your traction. Probably the best thing for a four wheel drive is to make it a real four wheel drive, not one in the front and one in the back with power. I learned this from two wheel drive vehicles. Is you had a positive traction rear differential you went much farther. Even worked with a pickup truck with no extra weight in the bed of the truck. The tall skiny tires should be a no brainer. Look at the original military tires on a Jeep and the ones on the Volkswagon or for that matter the Model T. All used tall narrow tires, not because the engineers wre to stupid in making tire decisions. They knew they worked. They were designed when very few roads were paved.

[@Vikingocazar]

Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac’s are f’ing awesome!!

[@CrazyWoody1989]

I live in the US and I have a '77 Dodge Power Wagon with 33x12.50r15 tires on it and I have a set of 16 inch tubeless rims that will fit it and I had been thinking about getting some 7.50-16s for a while now, and now that I have watched this video I am absolutely set on getting some for it.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

I don't know what the original tyre size is for your auto but that'd be a good place to start.

[@CrazyWoody1989]

@@defendermodsandtravels They're roughly around a 31 inches tall. And probably close to the same width in the 70s. They should work relatively well with the axle gearing I have as well.

[@CrazyWoody1989]

@@defendermodsandtravels Same width as a 7.50-16**

[@gen1c8rs88]

@@CrazyWoody1989 I would get 235/85r16 they are more common ?????

[@CrazyWoody1989]

@Gen1 C8RS 235/85s are more common as far as tread varieties and such, at least around here, but I'm wanting the deep lug treads and bias ply design of the 7.50 16s. Strangely enough it seems like 7.50 16s are generally cheaper than any aggressive 235 85s

[@hermask815]

I’m no outdoorsy guy, but I read a decade ago, that the farther you are away from populated areas, you shouldn’t go for very specific hardware because mechanics wouldn’t have neither skills or spare parts in remote locations. Seemed a good advice at that time. Guess it holds true today. (Theme was the Australian outback.)

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Yup keep it simple and it'll get you home.

[@TechnikMeister2]

After doing North and South America, Africa and Australia, 80% on dirt roads, these are my observations: 1. An A/T rated tyre is sufficient if it comes from a major manufacturer. For me the best by far was the Yokohama Geolander. 2. Great on gravel, adequate in mud, quiet on the blacktop. No punctures. 3. They bag out nicely when you air. down for sand with high flotation. 4. You can buy them anywhere and they are easy to fit roadside. M/T tyres are better in mud, But nowhere else. They are stiff, heavy and don't float on sand. They are very noisy on blacktop. Check out "The Road Chose Me" youtube videos.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Thank you for your comments which are full of good points. Like you I think AT tyres are best for all round use and I will check out the Yokohamas which I am unfamiliar with. However I am just embarking on a trip to southern Africa and it's the rainy season where I am going. After a lot of thought I have fitted the set of MTs.

[@EthosAtheos]

Man leaning on a Land Rover says "if you want to keep your vehicle reliable". Land Rovers are absolutely reliable from the factory, you can guarantee you'll be under it soon. Over all I think it's all good advice but very region specific. I haven't seen an inner tube in over 30 years in my country (USA). I've never had a problem running aluminum rims. I hate steel tube less rims as they always rot and loose air. Salted roads are murder on steel. I do agree that lots of overlanding gear is unnecessary even when it is good quality and a lot of it isn't good quality.

[@w0bblyd0inkb0ink]

This is someone who actually does the overlanding.

[@philhealey449]

A bit of exchange on brand failures below has reminded me to remind all to try and check the manufacturing year code moulded into your prospective "new" tyres when buying to avoid old rubber.

[@AlloffroadAu]

yes 100% have not purchased a few tyres online after requesting the manufacturing code, turned out they were a few years old.

[@mattl2366]

Hi Bill, excellent video. I was hoping to pick your brains for some advice please if you would be so kind. I wouldn't class myself as particularly experienced in this realm, having not ventured that far out of Yorkshire, but I have been reading and trying to learn lots around this subject of tyres ahead of planning my own self supported expeditions to the Moroccan Sahara, and generally travelling Europe. I am 24 years old and have a 2008 110 2.4 Puma ex Red Cross and a 1989 One Ten V8. A few of my friends have pickups and 4x4 SUVs and insist on fitting massive stupid mud tyres, and indeed, I myself went through a phase with my V8 of running it as a daily with a set of 235/85 Goodyear Wrangler MT/R (as fitted as LRs standard mud tyre on the Pumas) - I will say that they do look very cool, but this is of course logically irellevant. But I am a bit of a realist here in that my daily driver is 95% road miles when at home, with only light green landing off road, and also 'playing' in the snow in winter, but I would also like to keep the same set of tyres for adventuring and non adventuring - and tyres are not cheap - so I want to fit a set which will suit my needs and be the best all rounder for me. For the Puma I am kitting this out to be the expedition vehicle with a relatively barebones camping setup with some electrical and water facilities. I daily drive the puma so it has to be good on road, good on fuel, ideally not too noisy, and have good mileage all out of the tyres. But then I would like it to be strong and capable off road for whatever obstacle I may encounter. I understand this is a slight oxymoron, and the tyre I choose may be inherently a 'compromise'. I am running the standard (non wolf) steel wheels (called 5.5 I think?). I have narrowed the choice down to Michelin Latitude Cross in 7.50 R16 (from what I have read this is 35% off road/65% on road bias tyre, acting like an AT off road, and like a road tyre on road, and was standard fit on Pumas). Many people rave about this tyre and I like the look of it very much. Another option is Bridgestone Duellers in 7.50, and these also have the benefit of the EU '3 peak mountain flake' rating for winter use in Europe which is really quite appealing. The final option is Michelin XZL, which are supposedly very strong, very good in sandy conditions, however I am told are lethal in the wet and ice/snow, therefore rendering them quite poor as a set to leave on my Puma for commuting to work etc when I am not on expedition. I think my favourite choice is the Michelin Latitude Cross - have you ever run these tyres or heard any feedback on them for expedition use? My question to you is - what tyre would you choose and why? Also, would you have any other recommendations for me for other brands/models? Thank you very much indeed and please do keep on making these brilliant videos.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Most tracks in Europe and Morocco aren't too bad and a good set of ATs should be fine. Aggressive MTs aren't that good in soft sand paradoxically. I wouldn't go wider than 235s in a Defender. Buy the highest profile tyres you can get so the sidewalls will tolerate being depressurised on the soft stuff. Good luck with your trips. Morocco is a good place to start.

[@rao180677]

This is why I like to hang around with older people. 5 minutes with them and we learn so much. But if you allow me an advice: please don’t place that foot between the bull bar and the grill… 😮 one small balance issue and….

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Thanks for the advice. I am making a conscious effort to avoid risk situations these days.

[@rao180677]

@@defendermodsandtravels I just found your channel and I’m delightful with your content. This is pure gold info. Thank you for sharing!

[@Raymasseyus]

I enjoy this video immensely. I'm wondering about your opinion regarding two-wheel drive or rear wheel drive and mud tires. I have a rear wheel drive pickup truck. And I put mud tires on the back and all terrains on the front. I rotate side to side rather than front to rear. But I like the mud tires because I've only got one axle to get me out of trouble if I get into trouble. I have never found all terrains to be that great in the mud. When I first bought the truck it had street tires and I got stuck on wet grass. I swore that wasn't going to happen again. It's something that I saw on a lot of trucks growing up in the sixties and seventies in the US. It seemed to make sense now as much as it did then. I didn't want mud tires on the front because they take away from the mileage for no good reason on the front, at least no good reason that I could tell. I've already tested these in the rain for the last few years and they haven't caused me any problems they all grip about the same on dry pavement and in the rain. Anyway I'd appreciate any input you might have. Looking forward to any more content you might put out. I find yours one of the most useful channels on the whole of KZbin. So I watch the videos again and again.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Hi, I see the logic of what you are saying but have no experience of that tyre choice personally. As I said in the video, I just keep the two sets (ATs and MTs) and choose whichever seems best suited for my next trip. My one concession to improved traction is a limited slip diff at the rear and I think that helps. I am in southern Africa at present and chose the MTs for safety although they haven't been tested that much. In Namibia there were a number of tracks with sharp rocks / stones and the chunky treads absorbed the cuts well. I think the ATs might not have coped. I trundle along quite slowly when in expedition mode so the MTs are fine even on wet tarmac.

[@Raymasseyus]

Thanks for the input as always. I have a factory Locker or that's what they call it, in the rear. I was thinking about going to a manually controlled blocker for a more decisive lockup. And considering that or a limited slip whenever I have to open it. This one General Motors refers to as their G80.

[@Raymasseyus]

I also find the mud tires I've been using to be fine even on wet pavement. I hope you enjoy your time in Africa. That looks like an amazing adventure.

[@youtoobme1]

Very interesting video thanks... I am interested in the heavy duty tubes but the link is not working and I cant find any info about the company. Do you know are they still in open? or another supplier? Thanks

[@rickbear7249]

7.50/R16 is the tyre size used by the British military and the US Rangers. These are tall tyres with a relatively narrow tread. No sane military would equip their Defenders with wide profile tyres, for one very good reason. That is that the military MUST GET THROUGH and all other considerations are secondary. Tall thin tyres will always find grip because they cut through the grass or mud or snow to find the underlying earth. That means grip! While fat wide profile tyres are nice if you want to minimalise any damage to the surface, it is essential for the military - and an overlander - to get through. As for the best value 7.50/R16 tyres, then try ordering a set of DEESTONE tyres + inner tubes. These are like the old factory-fitted military tyre (indeed, I suspect DEESTONE may have acquired the moulds). They're only caveat being that these tyres take a month or two to 'bed in', during which time they're quite slippery on tarmac. Also, be aware that Mud & Snow tyres have an entirely different tread to Sand cross-ply rather than radials, but you're unlikely to need radials on a Defender. Finally, note that both of these are off-road tyres as versus the so-called all terrain tyres used by primarily on-road 'Chelsea Tractor' 4x4s. Have fun and safe driving. Postscript: on getting your 7.50/R16 tyres wheel balanced. I suggest looking around for an independent tyre house with eastern-European tyre fitters. They're familiar with heavy agricultural tyres with inner tubes, and will have both the strength and the expertise to bounce these big heavy wheels as the inner tubes are first inflated. Failure to do this will strain the valve and result in inner tube punctures.

[@operation4wheelz]

Though I agree with much of what you’re saying. Technology has moved on and good quality alloy rims exist. There are also garbage steel ones. I’ve run alloys for years across harsh Australian conditions and never once had an issue. Also tyre technology has moved on significantly too. You are significantly restricted running tubed tyres. The biggest issue is running lower pressures, as they are prone to overheating. Modern good quality Mud tyres like KM3 are extremely versatile and extremely strong. Though I’ve never done over landing in Europe, I seriously doubt that conditions are anywhere near as harsh as Australia or Africa.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Thanks for the advice. If I were starting again I might well go with more modern wheels and tyres however it'd be a big call for me to change out the two sets I already have, and very expensive too. Whilst I don't pay too much attention to appearance, a set of fancy alloy wheels would look absurd on a 30+ year old ex-military Defender. The Wolf steel rims I use with the MTs are HD military type and are probably stronger than anything else available (you have to use longer wheel studs because of the extra thickness). I accept that Australian conditions are harsher than European but this vehicle goes everywhere (currently in S. Africa). Let's see how it performs there.

[@janetgilmore8006]

We have always used 700 16 off road tread on steel wheels on a f250 4 wheel drive high boy, never been stuck yet a winch helps..? 40 years..?

[@vincefairleigh6899]

A wise man here, although 265 mm isn’t fancy or that wide, the extra width makes it way better off road, skinny tires are great when mud or snow isn’t deep, and skinny doesn’t work well in sand.. and he’s right about not using large rims, I’d never use 18”-20”… and wheel spacers are junk.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Your statement about sand is simplifying too much. Please see my terramechanics videos. Let me try to explain without complication. For a given tyre penetration (sinkage) a narrow tyre will alwavs have less resistance than a wider tyre. However the penetration will depend on: 1. Wheel load. 2. Tyre width. 3. Inflation pressure (which governs the contact length). 4. Soil properties (for sand this is the angle of internal friction). 5. Wheel diameter. There are a range of conditions for which the narrow tyre performs better and other conditions where wide tyre is preferable.

[@dickturpin6258]

Awesome video Couldn't agree more on airtite tubes ,absolute shite😀

[@Poacher91]

BF Goodrich KO2 All terrain is a good option, however I'm not sure if it comes in your size. it might be worth to look in to

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Everyone speaks well of these but I think only available in larger sizes. For me the weight is quite an issue because I find it a struggle to manhandle heavy wheels.

[@Poacher91]

@@defendermodsandtravels They are tubeless, I guess they are built a bit more sturdy because of that. Which in turn add weight. BF Goodrich is available from LT 215/65R16. Nokian Outpost AT might be another solution, however they are also tubeless. in 265/70R16 they weigh 37,5 pounds. They are less agressive compared to the KO2s

[@AlloffroadAu]

it always depends on the application and use there is no one fits approach, for your purposes, vehicle and travel the tyre choice makes perfect sense for me it would not so. Just keep in mind calling aloy rims brittle is not true I dare to say any (expensive) 7075 alloy rim will be stronger and will take way more abuse then any steel rim but that is only refereing to strenth the other points you mention especially for travel in poorer countries and replacemnt are valid points. My touring vehicle also runs cheap steel rims lol.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Clearly there's no "one fits approach" as the title of the video indicates. I am well aware that there are very tough alloy wheels available, and I would trust any fitted OE by any of the name manufacturers, however many of the after market rims are Chinese imports of dubious quality. I wouldn't touch them with the proverbial barge pole. If cheap 'n cheerful steel rims are good enough for the locals then they are good enough for me too.

[@philhealey449]

I'm putting faith in 30 mm thick aluminum Hutchinson beadlock wheels, suspecting they will not be fragile. Lightness has not been achieved however.

[@AlloffroadAu]

@@philhealey449 I'm considering them for my Jeep are this the two piece internal beadlocked ones?

[@philhealey449]

@@AlloffroadAu Yes, the ex military 20inch.

[@mikeadler434]

👍👍

[@grasrau4051]

Steel rims can also be repaired with relative ease. Alloy rims are a nightmare to repair.

[@globlander3542]

HI! Super movie. I agree with you. Big doesn't mean good. Everyone has different requirements. Decide for yourself. Fashion is a bad advisor. Greetings !

[@cameronwood1994]

Just a heads up on two things. Firstly, both Michelin Latitude Cross and XZL 7.50 R16, despite being tubeless, are marked "may be used with tube". Secondly, Vintage Tyres stock brand new genuine Michelin Airstop inner tubes.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

You are missing the point friend. Everyone says "may be used with tube" even when they have inner ribs which will eventually destroy the inner tube. I think I found the Vintage Tyres website before but hell what a price, as I remember it. Two of the Goodyear Wrangler tyres are coming to end of life but no punctures which for me is a record. I will stick with the inner tubes I bought which have been wonderful. I have a set of unused Michelin XZL mud terrain tyres which I will now refit before my next big trip however I will dress the internal ribs first. This may not be recommended but I know it will reduce the flats. Thanks for your comment.

[@cameronwood1994]

@@defendermodsandtravels I only mentioned it because they're the only tubeless tyres marked "may be used with tube" on the sidewall, none of the others I have seen are. I am surprised you had issues with Avon Rangemaster tyres, I've had five years service out of mine including a West-East crossing of Africa without any of these issues. Yes, Vintage Tyres are expensive, but at least they seem to have good quality inner tubes in stock.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

@@cameronwood1994 I wish the Rangemaster tyres had been better but they just cracked up as the picture shows. The Goodyear Wrangler ATs have worked well for me. I agree that the Vintage Tyres offerings seem to be very good if pricey. However always look critically at what they sell you - check the weight of the inner tube and the size marking, as explained in the video. Thanks for your helpful comments.

[@philhealey449]

@@defendermodsandtravels Avon must have gone downhill. I had a set of Rangemasters already on my ex-Land Rover development 110 CSW bought at 65,000 miles in 1991 and they were still going strong 5 years later at 105,000 miles. Poor on ice though.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

@@philhealey449 I bought a set believing them to be competent if unspectacular AT tyres. They failed prematurely after a not particularly hard life as the photo shows. I can't recommend them. The Wrangler ATs have been infinitely better.

[@JohnnyM6030]

Great information, but do the Goodyear wrangler come in the size required to fit original series wheels @ 7.50 16, as I can't seem to find any !!!

[@defendermodsandtravels]

I found a set when I made the video a couple of years back. I hope they are still in production because I will need another set soon.You could always try my local suppler, Beccles Tyre Centre, which sourced them for me last time.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

I have been told by my tyre supplier that the Wrangler AT is no longer available in 7.50R16. I have been offered Bridgestone Duelers instead.

[@JohnnyM6030]

Thanks for the info, I'll have a look at them, cheers 👍

[@NBSV1]

The majority of modern overland stuff is all about looking cool over actual function. They end up with so much money in it it’s hard to really take it overlanding and tear it up. Plus, then they’d have to face the fact that their rig sucks at actually overlanding.

[@Predator27007]

Vrakking Tyres, Holland. Supplier of ex Mil and other tyres.

[@defendermodsandtravels]

OK noted thanks.

[@berjerk3425]

On my own experience (no defender but discovery or range so same tyres applies) : Originals alloys, with either AT in 265/75R16 or 235/85R16 MT and never BF (always the most expensive, heavy and outdated).

[@defendermodsandtravels]

People swear by BFGs?

[@berjerk3425]

@@defendermodsandtravels In France yes, a lot. But I have to admit that everywhere you look to find tyres, you'll find them.

[@Predator27007]

Soil mechanics come into tyre effectiveness. Shear strength, wet/dry density all determine which tyres (tread design, running pressure, footprint length, self cleaning) are best OVERALL. You can not predict soil conditions, so be conservative.

[@andrewjjhalliday]

Hi Bill, have you seen the Davanti Terratoura tyres?

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Never even heard of them.What about them?

[@andrewjjhalliday]

@@defendermodsandtravels the lads at TirsbaekTV put a set on one of their Defenders and hopefully they will put out a long term test

[@TonyBlews]

On high tech equipment... the more high tech, the more likely to break when you need it.

[@corvus2746]

Its hard to drive overwater, overland means on the road or offroad?

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Overland means different things to different people. In Europe overlanding generally means long distance, independent travel through more than one country. In Australia and USA it would usually be the same thing within the same country. To most people a weekend's camping with the family wouldn't qualify, nor would offroading sessions with no particular destination.

[@brianovington]

Good old Fashined advice

[@defendermodsandtravels]

Is that a compliment or a criticism? :-)

[@brianovington]

@Defender mods and travels definitely a compliment.