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Very close to Carora - a city in the Lara state that we should all visit to do a doctorate in the sense of roots - is the town of Altagracia, in what Caroreños call "The Other Band." It's crazy, because two blocks from Plaza Bolívar Carora ends and a lonely desert road begins that leads to these lands where the only, exclusive and most awarded wines in Venezuela are produced. In 1985 Empresas Polar selected a farm to start producing wines, and created POMAR. The tests are carried out because it is considered that with good land, with high temperatures during the day, but not so high and very cool at night, the presence of the Sierra de Baragua would help to cool down, there is no water but a well is opened 200 meters away, A lagoon is made and drip irrigation is guaranteed for the plantation. Once the first results were obtained, the vineyard was started in the years 86-87 and the first experimental harvest was obtained in 1987.
So far everything is normal for me, but when I was listening to the story that Guillermo Vargas, the founding winemaker, told me, a truck full of grape bushes appears and Roberto, the vineyard manager, tells me that is where it all begins. That these plants are the pattern and it is a Creole grape. Stunned, I asked if by saying “criolla" she meant that it was Venezuelan and she said yes, that it was a grape that was grown in Brazil, Colombia and Venezuela. It's called Black Criolla. Do you want more exciting news?
Then the journalist that I am, who does not want to have the slightest doubt, starts... Does that mean that the mother of all this vineyard is Venezuelan? That the womb of our wines is Venezuelan? That everything comes from a Venezuelan lineage?
And it seemed that he did not understand my frenzy and said yes with the intense scientific character of an agronomist. That “the boss” - as he defined it - was the one that had the strength to withstand the effects of the climate, the pests and that the strains that came from all over the world were grafted to that plant, and there are 7 of them, the ones that best adapt. to these lands.
In short, from there I began to enjoy the history, the grapes, the wines, the walk more because all of this had its origin in the black “criolla” a table grape that was produced with great success in Siquisique - a town in Larense - and which led to the creation of the Uva Institute at the Lisandro Alvarado University. So the whole story made sense and I'll tell you the whole story. What do vineyard grapes taste like? What is the use of them? How what is good for the vineyard manager is not good for the winemaker?... And so on. Seriously fascinating.
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