The Best Way to Scan Film at Home

[@ZippyDChimp-mr1tf]

I come from a film background. Started developing my film and enlarging before high school in the 70s. I was a holdover and didn't finally sell all my film gear until about 10 years ago. I'd gotten used to digital and found the right system for me to feel comfortable enough to do so by then. Six months ago I decided to get back into film and bought a TLR. I tried several local labs and finally found a mail in service that works for me. Still, I'd love to do my own scans but medium format film scanners are few and far between. This seems interesting to me but i've got this thing I can't quite get over and that is scanning a medium format negative onto a 35mm sized sensor. I know it probably has little to no effect on the final result but my boomer brain just can't quite get over it.

[@synlfo7828]

Great video. In the studio we have a Phaseone Heritage iHX system. Essentially the big boy version of what you have. Its a repro copy stand with lights, pressurized glass plate (to lay paper flat under) and light box for scanning transmissive materials (negatives). It comes with holders similar to the flextight ones, full metal and rubber. Although these dont bend. There are various versions of the camera but essentially its a 150mb camera in a metal incasing with changeable lenses and extension tubes. Everything is metal and incased. The image is split out into 3 channels. The whole system is for archiving to a set to a global standard for museums and libraries. Each session has to be calibrated for the material you are capturing. For white balance and grey point. If you really want to get into it, we even have a chart that is measured for sharpness and density prior to capturing negatives that has to be done and targets met. I love the quality of the negatives that come out of this. Although I feel drum scanning still is slightly better. Maybe more texture etc. But there is no denying that an over head system is so much quicker and efficient. I tried a system at home but in my place you need the space and there is so much dust. A drum scanner gets rid of most of the dust by its very nature. I may make a video of the process on the iHX for those interested.

[@mahartman]

That sounds super interesting! I’d love to see that chart and how you measure sharpness and density BEFORE scanning. Super interesting to hear how the image is split into what I assume are the RGB channels! In order to make sure the image is sharp, I’m essentially just magnifying the zoom to look at the grain of the negative and get as sharp as possible. Dust is always an issue, and something that takes quite some time in Lightroom to clean up (if I want to, sometimes I leave it!). Appreciate the in depth comment and I’m glad you liked the scans!

[@synlfo7828]

@@mahartman the system is basically focusing on grain. Everything works through. Capture One. But the initial calibration is very much based on numbers with a variance of - or + 3. This is to get the precise exposure levels to produce negatives as close to the original exposure that the images captured. Happy to send you a shot of the spectral Grey card.

[@AWAShowme]

I just sent my first role of film to be developed - it's like waiting for a birthday present. Hopefully it's not garbage. Thanks for the content.

[@mahartman]

It really is. What film did you shoot? Are you scanning it yourself or having the lab do it?

[@AWAShowme]

@mahartman I sent it to a local lab. Kodak color plus 200 negative film. Does that mean the prints will be reversed - dark areas appear light? I just now realized it was a negative film. 😶

[@mahartman]

@@AWAShowme Cool! Color plus 200 is awesome- super similar but with a touch more vibe. If the lab is scanning for you, you're going to get back normal looking images! If you're planning on scanning yourself, you will have to either invert it using lightroom curves, or a tool like Negative Lab Pro. I am planning on doing a video on Negative Lab pro soon!

[@AWAShowme]

@mahartman Oh that's a relief to know. I'll look out for your video on this topic. Keep up the good work.

[@valoico]

Wow! Thank you so much for such a positive review. This video looks amazing and love the results you´ve gotten! -Tuomas/VALOI

[@mahartman]

Thanks so much for the comment! This product has truly given me a love for the scanning process. It’s fun, easy, high quality and GOOD. Cheers!

[@collinausbury]

This video is awesome. This will be the first scanner I ever buy - thanks so much for all the detail you poured into this!

[@mahartman]

Dude thank you! That means a lot. She is a beast!

[@Ravenbunny1220]

Thank you for sharing your experience!! As someone who recently got into film photography and will eventually explore self-scanning, this gave me a clear picture of how easy - and fun - it is! You earned a new subscriber 🤝

[@mahartman]

So glad it helped! Hopefully it helps save you from perils I took. Once you get a system down, it’s so satisfying and fun. Thanks!

[@PhilipBlystone]

Great video! Thank you for the amazing quality as always

[@mahartman]

Thank you my brother!

[@nathanwehrly4130]

Two words! vibey ✅ informational✅ Loved it!

[@mahartman]

Thank you!

[@GirdHerd]

I'm also using the Valoi 360 system to scan my 35mm and 120 (6x7) images with a Nikon D600 (24MP) and Nikon D850 (45MP). I have my laptop tethered to my DSLR using Lighroom Classic and Negative Lab Pro. My copy stand is a converted Beseler 23Cii XL enlarger. You're right - It takes me less than 5 minutes to scan an uncut roll of film. My next step is to buy the necessary equipment and chemicals to process my own film. Film shooting is expensive but I love the fact that it is more rewarding when that final product is a high quality image. Digital photography is almost too easy.

[@mahartman]

Love to hear that. Great setup! I think digital photography is a great tool for the right job (sports, corporate, wildlife, etc.) but for daily living, personal work, or honestly even some paid client work, it’s just so much more thoughtful. It forces me to think way more in all the right ways!

[@hubertvachon8723]

I had the Plustek 8100 just as you. Now I scan using a similar method but with a DIY stand. I use the Huion lightpad. I know it is less colour acurate but when I built it, the cinestill lightpad was not out yet. I might check it out. However I do mostly black and white so I doubt this is relevant. Thanks for the video!

[@mahartman]

I think just having accurate color temperatures, and switching them with a small button on the light, has been super helpful in consistent results. It has a black and white mode on it but, aside from luminance…yea haha I’m not sure how important the color temperature is for b+w. I’m sure it affects contrast or the density in some small way. Cheers!

[@shoelessone]

I have the Plustek 7300 and I could not agree with you more that the speed is painful. I think for me though scanning each frame one at a time, and the excitement of seeing one photo at a time sort of adds to the experience. Sort of like a slightly more modern version of putting a print from an enlarger in the developer. I really appreciated the video and info on your scanning setup, I do think if I was shooting more than a 5 or 6 rolls a year (not much I realize) I'd probably look at something like your setup.

[@mahartman]

Totally get that. I experienced something similar with my first few rolls on the Plustek! There was a moment though where I had about 4 rolls developed, ready to be scanned…and that was just a dreadfully long experience and knew something had to change! Appreciate the comment! I think it’s worth the investment if you feel you’re going to shoot more!

[@danienelphoto]

I am building my mirrorless setup now - the Valoid stuff is unfortunately not available here in South Africa, so building something with a high CRI LED video light and still figuring out hte masking, but so far tests have been very good.

[@mahartman]

I love that. There are a few other options out there that might ship to South Africa. Prices vary on these, but there is a product called "Essential Film Holder" made by a guy in England. It's pretty cheap and simple, but from what I have heard, works very well as a manual solution. Kaiser makes a product called the "Vario", and Negative Supply makes a similar product as well. Both of these are on the premium side. Good luck!

[@danienelphoto]

@@mahartman Yes, thanks. The Vario and Valoid will ship here, ut the shipping costs is for some reason really high - so much so that after currency conversions and whatnot it becomes just too rich to make sense. The Vario is only 35mm, so I am making something that can handle 120 as well.

[@ajayfay]

Hey, man, I have seen a ton of videos like this and they never actually teach you how to scan your film. What are you doing for exposure, how are you converting the negative image to color, and what do you do for focus? maybe there's a video I am missing, but also how do I know how far up or down I need to set up my camera? Super weird that everyone is like, get a copy stand use a DLSR, but that's it?? lol - I am a long-time film guy, but never scan outside of a flatbed, or my old Nikon cool scan for slides. And I bet using my DSLR would be much better resolution and quicker. I just need some more steps to get set up. I really appreciate any help you can provide. Also, that video was Legit as far as color, styling, and whatnot. Loved the crushed shadows on the right side and the colors. Great work! Oh, and maybe tell us why you almost quit film? I'd like to hear that story. Since I basically almost quit digital. It would be interesting to hear about the journey.

[@mahartman]

I appreciate this comment and insight. This video was intentionally surface level, aimed at simply showcasing this alternative method to scanning. However, I do wish in hindsight I dug a bit deeper on the actual settings/process on the camera side. I have two new videos aimed at filling in the gaps on the way. One, focused more on the shooting side, and the other on the actual scanning/editing side. Be on the lookout! Maybe one day I will share that story!

[@andrewtongue7084]

Excellent overview...I'm going to head toward Valoi's website after dinner; the professional kit is one that appeals to me, but I'm going to ask: What software are you using to transition those negatives to positives ? Best, Andrew.

[@mahartman]

Hey Andrew! Thanks for the comment. Right now I am using a plugin called "NegativeLabPro" which is a plugin you can load into Adobe's Lightroom Classic, which is what I use to edit all my photos. Hope this helps!

[@andrewtongue7084]

So noted.Thank you for your kind response !

[@finn4240]

3:13 Fujifilm and Canon R aren't DSLR's? Since they don't reflect any mirror or lens input, but digitally reproduce this with a sensor instead of mirror? Question mark since im new to this and thats what i always believed :)

[@mahartman]

Ha! Great point. I guess the better and more accurate way to put it would be “digital” cameras. I guess I always just used “DSLR” as shorthand for these kinds of cameras. So technically you’re right on!

[@BXDOLPH]

cool video

[@mahartman]

cool comment 😎

[@BrumaFilm]

Can you scan 16mm film? 😂

[@mahartman]

Yes! They make a 110 holder (16mm) just like for 120 or 135!