The Best Ways To Cut Cement Backerboard

[@alanmcrae8594]

Nice presentation and explanation of different methods by a pro who knows what he is talking about. No distracting music, no fumbling around, no shaky handheld camera work, no out of focus bumbling - just a smart, experienced craftsman sharing his knowledge & experience with the world. Thank you!

[@TheUuhhh]

Seven years later and still helping people out!! Awesome

[@noahliberman3247]

I’m a professional handyman. I was a journalist for 20 years. This is the best how-to video I’ve ever seen. In 7 minutes he explains 5 methods, pro and con, demonstrates 2, doesn’t waste a word and even made me laugh with the vehemence of the “it’s a joke” comment about using a box cutter. Two thumbs up - since I still have two thumbs.

[@enduringcharm]

Thanks for the kind words!

[@terrykizer6755]

I wanted to say thank you! I had a project today and needed to cut several pieces of hardi plank for our storage shed. I tried a fine cut steal jigsaw blade. Then I tried my circular saw with the blade backward. Neither of those were working. I watched your video, got out the jigsaw again, used the corse cut wood blade and it worked! Took 1 1/2 blades to complete the project and you gave me permission to ruin a blade and replace it. Thank you my friend!

[@enduringcharm]

Glad I could help!

[@emmgeevideo]

I’m a DIY homeowner and you just saved my bacon…. Thanks!

[@mastert2990]

Same here

[@DrJWR1]

I cut mine with a saber saw. I didn’t need to have particularly accurate lines for my project and I used an extremely coarse used blade intended for limb cutting. I was able to stay pretty close to the lines and it worked great and I didn’t have to buy anything I didn’t already have. Thanks for a great video and great tips.

[@JoeyIndolos]

Thanks for taking the bother to test all these out and demonstrate them. I’ve been researching Hardie products for a DIY project because I need something both fire and moisture resistant, and it’s the most common brand here. I also like how they’re up front about silica dangers, and how to work around them. The problem is, practically all the videos I’ve found (both Hardie and 3rd party) talk mostly about scoring to cut. I can’t do that because my project has many curved lines. Your video is the proverbial needle in a haystack, and I’m glad it surfaced during my search.

[@MartiA1973]

Not often I comment on videos but this was excellent. Accurate, quick and good production standards, well done and thank you.

[@j.g.2934]

THANK YOU.. Following the US Marine Corps way of kicking ass, (K.I.S.S.) keep it simple stupid, I learned a lot from your video. THANK YOU for taking the time to film this.

[@robertbuilder8001]

Fantastic helpful video. No frills. Straight to the point. This is what DIY-ers want. Thank you.

[@Derrick_Crenshaw]

You know, I've watched several videos on how to cut cement board. But in all of those not one of them has really shown in great detail and explained in great detail how to correctly use the automatic shears like you did. So thank you. Very useful information.

[@jamesp.stansbury8005]

Many thanks for the tip to use the jigsaw. I did go through about four coarse wood blades on a number of cuts but picked up a "Diamond Grit Hard Tile" blade as I was at the big box hardware as I was getting some other things. And it worked very well on the cement wall board (on well fired Turkish tile it is actually next to useless so glad it's good for something)! I haven't done a full cost benefit, but it's still in good shape after about another 10 cuts, this on the more crumbly cement board you referenced. So getting one of those abrasive diamond blades for the jigsaw may indeed work out better in the long run.

[@malibo27]

Great life and time saver. I was searching for nearly a week how to cut these fiber cement board till I saw your video.. i have jigsaw ready. Thank you .. Keep up with good work and advise..

[@VidzMisc]

i would for sure go with the jigsaw as you recommend, cheers for the demo

[@1221vito]

I'll be switching from grinder to jigsaw until I can get a shear. I've never even considered the danger of the dust and I've cut miles of hardie; nostrils slap full of that dust. Thanks for the info!

[@enduringcharm]

+1221vito While there was always fine print about the silica danger on the label, it isn't until more recently that it's really become clear how bad it is. The truth is you can't work in the industry without putting yourself at risk in various ways, but we can at least minimize the hazard. I wish I had picked up the shear years ago.

[@TILEROB]

Lol right

[@vanderumd11]

This is why trades must push for our pay to be right. Fk these desk jobs.

[@DonHousiferBMI]

@@enduringcharm that's a very fair point. On that note: an adequate respirator will prevent pretty much all inhaled particles when cutting, although everyone nearby would need to wear them too if you want to be fully safe. But preventing them even being airborne by use of appropriate tools is great, so thank you for the insightful video. For the jigsaw wood bit: do you use a softwood or hardwood blade?

[@enduringcharm]

@ H Kay The important thing about the blade is to choose an aggressive one with fewer, larger teeth. You aren't really cutting the backerboard so much as breaking off little pieces as you go.

[@tasmedic]

That jigsaw tip with the wood blades is very much appreciated.

[@dundalkmacgyver800]

Great video! I started out with the score-and-snap, which was a horrible and slow way to do it. Then I discovered the jigsaw by sheer chance. It was laying nearby, and I figured I'd give it a try. Wow what a difference!

[@chipsteiner9128]

simple, straightforward, honest. Thank you.

[@M.Rawlins]

Thank you, this is my first attempt so I really appreciate your video.

[@MajorTendonitis]

Thank you , great video on your part . No needless music in the background , and you are quick and concise . I was going to use my skill saw till I seen your video . Will be using my overpriced Festool jigsaw and it's vacuum system now instead

[@WWYDdotORG]

Thanks for this video! I had to cut a some thin pieces for a bathroom repair and was planning on using a circular saw with Hardie blade and just dusting up my yard until I saw this video. I used your jigsaw method and it was far less dusty and not hard to do at all. Thanks again!

[@Engineerboy100]

Excellent video, I'm getting ready to do a floor and have never cut backerboard before. That said, the clear concise manner that you explained each cut type was great, easy to follow and informative, I will be stealing some of your methods of explaining on my channel to constantly try to improve. Thank you so much!

[@deaneng8540]

I just did a tub surround by scoring it with the Home Depot $10 carbide tool. What I did was place the 3x5 sheets on 2x6s (four) I had laying around and doubled them up for some height . So I had two stacks of 2x6s. Scored my line several times then placed the line that I scored just over the edge of one of the stacks of 2x6s. Then placed another 2x6 on top and stepped on it and even kind of stomped on it to break the hardi backer. It worked well and fairly fast. The more I scored about 4 times is when I got a fairly clean break.

[@bleakleyr]

Excellent video. well filmed, clear and showed both the tool that the pros would use and those that the homeowner might have on hand. Thanks.

[@LandbergTileTV]

Great method for using a snapper shear! Bought one and used it today. Was using a grinder for years, and the dust sucks! Thanks for the video

[@enduringcharm]

+LANDBERG LAUNCH That dust is bad news. OSHA is now pushing for more control of silica dust, although they talk about exposure in scientific terms not in real life terms that could be meaningful to us. Parts per million doesn't tell me anything about how I need to cut cement backerboard! I've just taken to minimizing my exposure as much as I can, but a certain amount is unavoidable.

[@LandbergTileTV]

+enduringcharm I'm trying to avoid it by using Kerdi board or Go board which they now sell at our home stores. Score and snap! That Go board backer is only about 10 bucks more than hardi per sheet.

[@clem95627]

An excellent video with demo and explanation. Thanks for taking the time to make it.

[@54egg]

Great video. Thanks! I can see jig saw will solve my problem needing to make some cuts to remove some damaged sections of wall board after removing a tub from a tub shower, in a conversion to shower, only removing a row of tiles above tub, then adding backer down to meet shower pan.

[@Rievven]

I usually fall back to the grinder, but you are very right about the dust. You really need a particulate filter mask to and be outside.

[@joeactive9028]

very good review..... I really wish I can find reviews like this one around......excellent job

[@enduringcharm]

Thanks!

[@RAMPHD]

This was excellent and informing! I do some carpentry but this was the first with Backerboard. Go figure, Home Depot rep said "score it and cut it". I have that Bosch saw too! Good points on the dust - NOT something you want to discover while sawing. Thank you.

[@Jamzzz-dx4iz]

Great video, my favorite tool for this, is the shears.

[@ryanhockeyguy]

Thank you, I have struggled to find the best tool for this job

[@eldrickejleest]

Thank you for such a good informative straight to the point video.

[@barbarawatts1329]

Excellent job! Now, show me how to cut a rectangular hole out of the center of the board! I have a feeling there will be a lot of trial and error on my part. Again, I like that your instructions are short, clear, and to the point. Thanks!

[@enduringcharm]

I cut rectangular holes with the jigsaw. If you look up my video on jigsaw plunge cuts you'll see that you don't even need to drill a pilot hole.

[@shantor100]

Cut a starter hole with a drill and then the jig saw

[@andrewkunz6029]

Great video. BTW, another option if you have a multi-tool and a grout blade/wheel is to score with it and then break by hand. Scores like through butter and gives a clean break. Left the blade no worse for wear. I didn't score more than 1/8" deep. Very little dust comparatively speaking. Cheers.

[@G4GJL]

Excellent and informative. Thanks for this information. You helped me out enormously with my project!

[@lapetitetrotte]

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! I ruined 2 entire boards by trying to score and snap. The board just exploded in pieces when I pried to snap it, even though my score line was pretty deep. I'm going to the store right now and buying myself a load of jigsaw blades. Thanks again!

[@pablolobo6560]

Thanks a lot! Was testing a piece with my grinder but am unable to cut a straight line. Now out to buy some blades for the jigsaw! Cheers!!

[@enduringcharm]

Good--a grinder is bad news with the dust anyway! Buy some aggressive jigsaw blades and keep the speed low. You'll still go through some blades, but the cost is minimal in the scheme of things.

[@pablolobo6560]

@@enduringcharm Picked up a pack of 5 Makita blades with large teeth, will be cutting tomorrow! Glad I found your video. Thanks again for the tips!!

[@bdriving1]

Excellent video and comparison of the jigsaw versus shears! Thanks!

[@suewelk2237]

Thanks for this video, it answered my question on how to tackle my bathroom reno :-)

[@einfussganger]

Score and snap with a regular razor works for me with 1/2" Hardibacker. The snap, though, is opposite from drywall (you pull up toward the cut, not away from it).

[@enduringcharm]

Out of curiosity, how do you handle anything other than straight cuts? What about irregular cuts around walls or openings, cuts around shower valves, cuts around shower bases or tubs, and that sort of thing? As I said in the video, I don't find scoring to provide a clean enough cut for my work, especially in corners or against other straight edges. I prefer the perfect cut the shears provide.

[@sung3d]

Thanks for this great video and education. I tried both utility knife and zigsaw for my 1/2" Hardie backer board and I stopped using when I killed 3 blades withing a few minutes. Didn't want to spend money and time to buy special shears so just used my utility knife and very satisfied with result. As long as you put good and deep scoring, it cuts clean in straight line. I used 1/2" drill to cut few holes open for valves and faucet, then again used utility knife to clean up and smooth the inside edge of openings. Worked like a charm. You just need some patience :)

[@enduringcharm]

Sung Kim Sounds like you had all straight cuts. Many baths I do require odd shaped cuts around tubs or shower pans, or tight square cuts around shower valves, etc. In those case a scoring utility knife just won't do. The jigsaw method does eat up blades, but I can typically get 8-10 linear feet of 1/2 inch Hardibacker cut at a minimum from one blade. You must use the saw on a slow speed and use a slow feed rate, though. If you try to cut like it's wood you'll eat up a blade in a couple of feet.

[@vinckokeccee1352]

@@enduringcharm he is full of shit...end of story..maybe 1/4 inch you could possibly handle straight cuts but thats it....

[@DrJWR1]

That shear looks identical to my sheet metal shear. Can I use that? Great video! Thank you!

[@enduringcharm]

The concept is similar, but the tolerances and travel are different. If you want an inexpensive backerboard shear which attaches to your cordless drill, see this review: kzbin.info/www/bejne/j4mmqHiso6iHhLs

[@DrJWR1]

Thank you! I have watched the review video and the subsequent video about the unit that attaches to your cordless drill. I’m probably going to get one of those. Thank you for all of these excellent videos!

[@dannyh.7490]

Excellent info on cutting cement board ! Just what I needed to know ! Thank you for doing such a great video !

[@idfitter]

Great video - Yes, the score and snap is a joke - using 12mm HB board here in the UK. I scored the board, but trying to snap it as shown in the HB video just lifted the board. I even got my wife to stand on the board. Instead of snapping, it lifted the board with her on it! When I did manage to get the board to snap, while most of it snapped, a 6" section in the middle snapped 3/4" further over leaving a gap. I did my next cut using a jigsaw (as I only need to take 10mm off) wearing a mask, outside and spraying the blade with water.

[@j.j.1134]

Thanks for the video! I also tried a rigid multi tool with the wood/drywall blade and it worked well but it does burn up your blade after several cuts.

[@johnluliak]

I only needed to make two cuts on a Hardie backer board. I first used my circular saw (outside and with a face mask) then it rounded out the old masonry blade 3/4 thru the cut. I watched your video and decided to try my jig saw. It went wonky and broke two blades. I scored the remained of the cut and it snapped easily. Finished the other 18 inch score and snapped it also. If one thing doesn't work try something else. LOL You had a very informative video thanks. I have no idea why the jigsaw blades broke, perhaps too many teeth on those blades.

[@enduringcharm]

You were probably running the jigsaw too fast or using blades with too many teeth per inch.

[@Jasonoid]

Thank you for the direct and demonstrative video!

[@embwee]

It's been a while since bathroom renovation, which I seem to have blocked from my mind, but I seem to recall using a circular saw with stone/masonry blade...because I had it ... with good results.

[@enduringcharm]

While circular saw blades can work well with straight lines, and they even make a blade designed for this purpose, it's really not a good idea due to the carcinogenic dust. The silica in many of the cement backerboards is bad news, especially for somebody like me who works with this stuff a lot. Believe me, I often push the boundaries of safety to get a job done, but this is one area where I don't mess around. Better to minimize the dust.

[@pammyb6219]

I have been using a jigsaw and the rockwell hand tool with a carbide blade. The carbide blade helps score a bit deeper and cleaner cut.

[@mikethompson5932]

There is a hook style blade that fits in a regular utility knife available at stores. It is great for hardiboard because you are dragging the knife and the shape allows it to score easier.

[@tankmage89]

I’ve been using the score and break method with fine results. Eats up the blades but you’ll get straight break if you do a good job scoring.

[@enduringcharm]

And how do you handle a hole in the middle of 1/2 inch hardibacker for a shower valve? Or a straight cut with a second 90 degree straight cut to remove a section?

[@glydyr007]

Very good video, you could be on tv with your talent for explaination…

[@mrarmy300]

Very informative, thanks for the side by side comparison

[@gfotinakes316]

Excellent layout and demonstration of cutting tools. You should have been a teacher!

[@mikeike7114]

Hi. What about a Saw Zall ? Is that a good option as well? Also, which is better between… Saw Zall versus Jig Saw? And which would make less dust? Thank you very much.

[@enduringcharm]

A sawzall or reciprocating saw is an awesome tool for many things, and would consider myself an artist with one in my hands. Since I do mostly remodeling and repair a reciprocating saw is never far away. However, it wouldn't be my choice for this work. It would be difficult to get clean, straight cuts and make more dust than is necessary. There are more options now for shears, and I did a review of one which is quite inexpensive (kzbin.info/www/bejne/j4mmqHiso6iHhLs). That would be my recommendation even for one project. A jigsaw with an aggressive blade is second best, because it minimizes the dust and it's easy to control. Just be aware that you'll need to slow down your cut rate and you'll go through a few blades to get your project done.

[@kimcup5000]

Thanks for the informative video. You're a good teacher.

[@damasydia]

I tried the score and snap...only thing that broke was my patience lol

[@gyos23]

Airborne Mike lol same here!

[@robertcasey7312]

Me too.

[@CynthiaNakaya]

lol. The snap worked...in all the wrong places!

[@basicallybabs]

Omg! I skinned up my knuckles. 🤣

[@meatintaco2002]

scoring takes pressure , and maybe a couple runs. I'm speaking for 1/4 inch not 1/2 inch I used 1/4 to score and put the score line next to a hard edge and shaped it just fine .

[@carlosquintana6930]

This snapper shear make my life easy I’m a handyman

[@cslloyd1]

for the shears: how long does the blade last? how often does it need to be sharpened or replaced?

[@enduringcharm]

I'm still on my original blades and I couldn't even tell you how many bath remodels I've done with them. They really crush the material rather than slice it, so being sharp really isn't the issue. It's more a matter of having close tolerance between the blades.

[@alexandersheets1]

The shear was so satisfying

[@bryanketels1]

I need to replace my bathroom floor, down to the joists. I want to do a tile floor. Should I do 2 layers of 3/4” plywood and then 1/4” backer board on top of that?

[@enduringcharm]

Much depends on the adjoining room and how might height you have to work with. If you can do two layers of 3/4 plywood that's awesome (I'm assuming joist on 16 inch centers). You may find that the floor in the adjoining room will not match up well enough, though. I have another video on this subject here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJ7VfauclqyLr7M

[@bryanketels1]

enduringcharm How about 3/4” plywood and 1/4” backer? Or do you think that might be too much flex still? It’s on a crawls pace.

[@enduringcharm]

You mean just a single layer of 3/4 plywood over the joists? I'm assuming the joists are on 16 inch centers. Generally speaking I would consider that arrangement inadequate, although every situation is unique. The steps you could take to improve your odds would include beefing up the framing with additional joists and/or a beam and posts underneath to cut the span. That would reduce joist flex. I would also consider using Schluter Ditra instead of 1/4" backerboard and installing small tiles to increase the amount of grout lines, which allows for more movement.

[@everettballenger7880]

I had a smallish DIY counter top to do. I tried some jigsaw blades that were supposed to be for wood and up to some softer metals. I destroyed 2 and was not half way through a 5' cut. So in desperation I used the diamond blade meant for tile work in my angle grinder. Yes lots of dust and would not want to use inside the house - it cut through the Hardy backer board like butter.

[@enduringcharm]

You were probably using the wood blades at too fast a speed, which will burn them up quickly. Using a slower speed and a more leisurely cut you can get 20 or 25 linear feet out of a wood blade before it gets too dull.

[@asteelopaparazzi1300]

The 81 people who disliked this love to use a carpet knife...

[@mikecohen7035]

Spend the money on the diamond tipped jigsaw blade. Its $10.98 for 1 blade BUT 20 cuts at the minimum you will get and that's if you ARE exclusively using it as your only cutting method. I personally wear personal breathing mask with filter and no problem. OUTSIDE. Not in. But Bosch makes a GREAT diamond tipped carbide jigsaw for cement board and it's almost shockingly smooth. That wood blade will fight you after 1 - 2 cuts and it burns up. So...$15 for 5 blades and maybe a total of 10-12 cuts OR spend $10.98 at Depot and get 20 cuts... kind of a no brainer. But Great video. You're doing a service of showing multiple options and that is KEY to a DIYer

[@Kuj]

Finally a decent video. I swear I was going crazy throwing every other method I saw at this board and not getting far at all. Especially the score in snap broke hardibacker extememely unevenly and it took something like 10 minutes of scoring to get deep enough where it would even start to snap. Trying to score and hammer out circles or squares in the board like many videos show is just a waste of time

[@frazzledgrey]

Thank you for 'straight To the point' information! This is a Nicely Done, 'how to' Video! I would give you 2 Thumbs Up if that option existed!!

[@robertocorradi7571]

Good one . . . clear and precise review . Thank you .

[@garrettlee6859]

Very helpful video. Thanks!

[@elenaolivares6965]

You are exactly right; I have compared the different cement boards and the Hardiebacker" is made better. Be sure to compare the different brands i.e. if there are cracks and broken pieces on the edge you know the whole sheet is going to crack under stress. I use the "cut-off tool" with a 4" dia. diamond blade that cuts really good on the tile also.

[@enduringcharm]

I hope you'll reconsider the grinding blade, which creates toxic dust. Once you try a shear you'll never go back. This shear I reviewed can be attached to your existing cordless drill and works very well: kzbin.info/www/bejne/j4mmqHiso6iHhLs

[@esdrasgalvan1716]

Is the shear snapper works on Hardiebacker half inch thickness ..???

[@enduringcharm]

Like butter. You'll never go back. See in the description I have a link to another video with a newer version of the snapper that attaches to your existing cordless drill. It's cheaper, too.

[@conniegutierrez8815]

Is this ok to use for table top for outdoor?

[@enduringcharm]

I'm not sure what you are asking. Is your question about the tools or about cement backerboard?

[@conniegutierrez8815]

@@enduringcharm the cement board. I'm wanting to do an outdoor tabletop with tile on top and wondered if this board will work

[@enduringcharm]

You can use tile in exterior applications, but typically it is over a solid surface such as concrete. And, the tile must be rated for exterior use, which will be a porcelain tile. Cement board doesn't have a lot of structural rigidity, so it would need to be supported below with wood or other structure. Some brands, such as Hardibacker, are better than others in this regard. I would not recommend it, honestly. I have seen tables made with tile which use a lattice or grid made of metal, with the tiles just laying loosely in the grid pattern, supported underneath. This has the advantage of easy tile replacement in the event of breakage. Making your own would require welding expertise, but you might find one for sale that works with standard tile sizes.

[@conniegutierrez8815]

@@enduringcharm thank you so much .

[@gerardred8147]

Great video mate. Thank you. It help the DIYfers a great deal.

[@shirvy]

Can I use a hacksaw blade? I know that will be a lot of work, but will it work?

[@enduringcharm]

No, you'd be wasting your time. Really this stuff doesn't cut so much as it crumbles in a straight line. An aggressive blade on a jigsaw used at slow speed works because it tears away chunks in a line. If you can't get access to shears then a jigsaw is the next best thing. Get a cheap, throwaway jigsaw at Harbor Freight if you don't own one.

[@Graxster]

Thanks for posting this! I'm headed to do a Hardibacker job tomorrow, and was going to try the carbide score and snap method. I'll just bring my jigsaw now!

[@enduringcharm]

Bring some aggressive blades and keep the speed slow and you should be fine. In the future, though, consider one the new Pactool shears which uses your cordless drill. The link to my review is above.

[@chiefwhiteeagle6205]

were did you buy the cutter

[@enduringcharm]

There's a link in the description to the corded model, and if you go watch the other video on the model meant for cordless drills there is a link in that description too.

[@olafbigandglad]

Have you tried a downstroke jigsaw blade?

[@enduringcharm]

I have not, although I'm not sure it would make any difference. A jigsaw is basically crumbling small sections at a time rather than cutting, so whether the action is up or down wouldn't seem to make much difference. Orbital action and a slow cut will provide the best result.

[@DeadlyVenomKing]

Wet saw works?

[@enduringcharm]

No, a diamond blade would take forever, the water would make a mess of the board before you installed it, and the arm of the saw would prevent any sort of reach. Trust me, the shears are far and away the best option and that new model of shear for cordless drills I mentioned here in the comments is a great idea for homeowners as well as pros.

[@ZyzzUMIRIN]

Thank you for the knowledge

[@chilo2218]

NIce video! I want to buy a jigsaw for this purpose and to use for future projects as well. How many amps/volts do you think would be sufficient?

[@enduringcharm]

While there are some tools for which amp or power ratings are important, I don't think jigsaws are one of them. Instead, focus on the ergonomics of the jigsaw. Find one that feels good in your hands, that isn't too heavy for you, and that has a trigger placement that feels natural to you. This is not a tool to buy sight unseen, you want to feel it in your hands and compare different brands or models. When you find the jigsaw that feels right in your hands, then don't skimp on the blades. A quality blade will make cuts effortless in wood (although it's less critical for cutting cement backerboard as seen in the video).

[@chilo2218]

Oh ok. I'll have to go to the hardware store to check out what they have. Thanks for your response! I'm about to start a bathroom remodel project so I'll check out the other videos in this series. You should do one on options for tiling around a window in the shower area. :D

[@enduringcharm]

If you are near a Home Depot or Lowes you can find decent brands there, such as Bosch, Dewalt, Porter Cable, and Makita. As for windows in showers--I don't want to burst your bubble but I am not a fan! Windows really don't belong in shower areas and if I find one I generally remove the window completely. I've seen a lot of rotted walls from windows in showers. While windows are designed to resist water from the exterior, they were never meant to resist water from the inside. Even vinyl or aluminum clad windows will allow water from the shower to get into areas it shouldn't. Consider taking out your window or moving it to another area of the room if possible. When you do the demolition, check to see if there is rot or mold in the wall already.

[@CynthiaNakaya]

I have a window in my shower and see your point. I'm glad you mentioned this. When I replace the window, I'll move it up (only exterior wall so impossible to eliminate.

[@philipburgoyne8272]

do the corners of the hardie board chip using the shear?

[@enduringcharm]

No, you can be very precise with the shears, especially with a little practice.

[@hondaslave-kd6hi]

Straight to the point,, thanks

[@fightermma]

Can I use a saw or steak knife to cut backer board. I have a hole in a wall just under my shower unit so need to cut out a shape. Also can I drill holes into it without it breaking apart?

[@enduringcharm]

First, there are different brands of backerboard and they have different properties. Hardibacker is a stiff and solid composition, others are more porous and crumbly. A steak knife would not be my choice of tool! A saw will work as shown in the video and you can use a hole saw or wood bits to drill holes, though they may not be clean holes. No matter what, protect yourself from the dust, which is dangerous to breathe.

[@fightermma]

enduringcharm Thank you for your help much appreciated. Can I not use a normal drill bit? I will be cutting a shape out of the background in the shape of the hole and then plan on drilling that shape onto wood that is inside the wall. Once the holes are drilled I will screw the piece with screws into the backboard and wood. Then tile that area and use grout inbetween tiles and sealant around the shower etc.

[@enduringcharm]

I'm really not following what you're trying to do or why, but if you want to drill holes using a regular wood/metal bit it will work. However, the cement board is tough on tools and the bit will be dulled. Basically you aren't drilling a hole, you're grinding away the material. So, keep the drill speed down low to prevent heat build up and watch the dust.

[@fightermma]

enduringcharm Sorry I meant that i have a hole in a wall just under the shower unit. I need to cut a specific shape from the backerboard and then attach this backerboard onto wood that id inside the hole in the wall. Then I need to tile this area up as it is inside my shower. I need to use backerboard specifically because the one I have ordered is waterproof. Long story short the guy who fitted in my electric shower had to make a hole in the wall and pull out the water hose that connects to the shower unit.

[@toastrecon]

Just what I needed to know! Thanks.

[@kashawilliamshussey7949]

Thank you for this good info!!

[@zzubuzz]

I have a 14" band saw that would work but it would require much space around it and and help holding the area not supported by the table. The bandsaw cuts like a jig saw which is why there is less dust. I used it cutting sheet xps styrofoam insulation for cleaner edges than snapping, and also used a jig saw.

[@enduringcharm]

You'd cook a bandsaw blade in short order. A jigsaw will work because you can slow the speed way down and the blades aren't that expensive to throw away. Really the shears are far and away the best option.

[@ryanwilliams8865]

Great video, thanks for the tips!

[@b_outside3608]

thanks for this....I was always using one of the super dusty methods....jigsaw method works like a charm!

[@sofialoveia609]

I appreciate it my friend, you really help people. GREACIAS!

[@ferndogg4427]

Ok what would i use to cut a hole for the toilet??

[@enduringcharm]

I saw from your other comment that you ordered the Pactool shear. That can be used to cut a hole for the toilet flange, but I typically use a jigsaw for smaller holes or openings. Either way you'll need to drill an access hole to start the cut, and you can use a common spade bit on slow speed for that. Presumably you are using 1/4" backer for the floor and that cuts pretty easily. If you use the shear, see if you can practice on some scrap first.

[@wmlschaeffer]

Great video! Just what I needed.

[@bigcooter7090]

cool tool .. never knew it existed ... probably great for doing complicated cuts ... but for the weekend warrior .. score and snap works for straight cuts.

[@enduringcharm]

Yes, the shear is wonderful, but if that's not available to me I'll use the jigsaw with a pack of blades to get through my cuts. The score and snap has never worked with enough accuracy for me, and it can introduce stress cracks in the work piece that I don't care for. The jigsaw blades for a whole bath only add up to $10-15.

[@bigcooter7090]

how long do those shear blades last? Does that electric shear tool also accept blades for sheet metal? (for casual home use, a multi functional tool could be worth my investment). Your shear cuts do look clean, ... if you shear out for hole, round or rectangular, etc... what other tools do you use to get started with the shear? ...Nice video BTW.

[@enduringcharm]

The blades are fairly long lasting (many jobs) and reversible. For holes or cuts in the middle of a sheet you can use a hole saw to make a place to start or you can use a jigsaw with a plunge cut technique (I made a video on that!).

[@1982stanwuify]

Is that shear an 18gauge?

[@enduringcharm]

It's not a metal cutting shear, it's meant for cement backerboard only.

[@Millennmify]

A 4" wet circular saw/tile saw works great. Home Depot sells a Ryobi for under $100.

[@enduringcharm]

A circular wet saw may keep the dust down, but the practicality is still poor. Aside from dealing with the water runoff, you can't make curved cuts or tight cuts with the saw. For a circular cutout in the middle of backerboard to accommodate a shower faucet you'll still need to pull out a jigsaw or the Pactool shear I reviewed in another video. Shears are still best option for keeping down the dust while making quick work of the cuts. I can make the cuts in the client's garage or even in the bathroom or kitchen itself without causing an issue.

[@gyos23]

I'm glad he said scoring and snapping was laughable. Too bad I watched this video after damaging a board.

[@whitneypickle]

I've damaged 2 boards and a few fingers in Texas heat before finding this video.

[@garywells3763]

I use a jigsaw if cuts are relatively "short", i.e. less than three feet. I use a 3 in. cut off (Dewalt) with a specialty blade for long cuts. It requires holding it back some because it will want to race away from you.

[@enduringcharm]

I'd encourage you to try shears, which can be had inexpensively now. The dust you are creating with the cut-off wheel is dangerous for your own health and that of others. It may seem like a small risk now, but when you get older like me you will look back in regret at some of the things you practiced. See this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/j4mmqHiso6iHhLssi=LnRlb2alQYrF4Nep

[@mdunbar008]

SO...... Why non address the giant chunk the shear broke out at the edge of the board?

[@enduringcharm]

I'm not sure what you mean--can you note the time stamp of the video in the part you're referencing? At 6:52 you can see a close up of the cut a shear makes.

[@mdunbar008]

@@enduringcharm at 6:25 you can see a large piece broken out a the start of the cut.

[@enduringcharm]

I see--on the waste side there is a chip. Not unusual. Sometimes when installing backerboard you'll get a similar sort of chip if you get too close to the edge with a screw, which can happen in corners. Perfect cuts are not necessary with backerboard. In areas such as around shower valve you need to be careful not to exceed the escutcheon cover, but if an edge of a backerboard sheet has a chip where it abuts another sheet a dab of thinset will be fine.

[@fasdm]

Spend a few dollars on a carbide coated jigsaw blade. It will last much longer than a wood-cutting blade and give you the same ability to cut curves.

[@enduringcharm]

Funny you mention that--those aren't available to me locally but I did purchase some carbide blades online maybe a year ago. Then I promptly forgot that I had them! Maybe later this week when I'm cutting some hardibacker I'll pull them out and give it a go.

[@stara808]

when using the jigsaw, doesn't the blade heat up? Every other vid says WET the blade????

[@enduringcharm]

Yes, the blade does heat up, which is why I suggest using a much slower speed. You will destroy your blade using it on cement board, but for a typical project you might go through one or two blades. That's not a lot of investment in the scheme of things. As far as keeping the blade wet, water could help cool a blade if you kept a constant stream on it. However, shorting out your tool and potentially electrocuting yourself seems like a high price to pay for a cut!

[@BC_70]

Great video... thank you so much!

[@amlgarrett]

Been doing tile for years... score and snap is what I’ve been doing unless I need to be precise, then I use the grinder. I laughed when you said no one does that anymore lol

[@enduringcharm]

No joke--you really should stop using a grinder. Look up silicosis and consider the risk. It also puts others at risk since the dust goes everywhere even when done outdoors. It's bad enough we expose ourselves to a certain amount of dust no matter how we cut--the boards have dust on them in the store. But, a grinder really sprays it everywhere. If you are doing tile regularly there's no reason not to own a shear.