The better multifix drill chuck

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[@Arthur-ue5vz]

I love that you don't hesitate to modify stuff to suit your specific needs. Many people just can't modify stuff because they respect the original design too much to the point that it becomes detrimental to them. You don't have that problem. You aren't afraid to saw off a chunk or drill a new hole in virgin material. You don't look at what's there, you look at what CAN be there. No limits, no hesitation. If it needs modifying, it GETS modified! I love that about you. You're not bound by convention - as many are! 😊

[@FCleff]

Stefan, I imagine that Multifix will have that exact chuck/toolholder in their next catalog. Brilliant! Speaking of brilliant, incorporating both the solid block and compound slide without compromising the function of either of them is a model of versatility and efficiency. Cheers, F.C.

[@davidrule1335]

Very good Stefan. On my 1943 South Bend 9-A, the cross slide is fluid shaped casting. No flat surface for T-slots, I would say it's art deco style from the time period. I envy you guys with a flat cross slide but the South Bend is charming and works just fine for what I do. My 1943 TREE Knee Mill has a collet closer, no draw bar. When you "cam over" the quill to close it. There must be tons or metric tons of pressure on the tooling. Never had a shank slip even when I crashed it. And everyone knows we all have crashed at least once. LOL

[@ajl9491]

Charming useless american technology, Z for the win!!!

[@sunslayr]

A guy in Australia makes a T-slotted crossslide for the Hercus 9A(Southbend clone) you could always put in an order, mine works great👍

[@davidrule1335]

@@sunslayr As I was typing my comment, I was thinking of how to make one. Thanks!

[@elanman608]

Nice little modification. It looks like it will be as useful as you expect. If you really need to choke down on a drill you could put the drill into the chuck backwards through the hole and reverse the chuck in the holder.

[@Rich-on6fe]

Flip the chuck round to hold that long drill shank.

[@emiliog.4432]

It has a hollow shank. You’ll get vibrations and more run out.

[@N1gel]

That's neat, like it.

[@adityapartap]

That's actually genius

[@neffk]

Heebeegeebees is like goose bumps but the connotation is danger and fear, not spooky, paranormal, and miraculous. ALSO, a hole in top for the chuck key might be better ergonomically. A slot so you can see it engage might be nice.

[@MrRctintin]

I saw this on Instagram today, I was hoping you’d make a video on it, and you have! Thanks Stephan

[@DudleyToolwright]

It's always great to hear about different approaches, even if you don't have the intention of using them yourself. New knowledge is rarely a waste.

[@Rustinox]

I've made a solid tool post for my lathe too. I works very well.

[@wrstew1272]

As always, you continue to amaze me with your crafty thinking. Another fine example of never ending thought of how to make precision available for the home shop. Well done 😊

[@plainnpretty]

I agree we’ll done

[@rossome3043]

Stefan, you are an absolute treat to watch, thank you my friend all the best in 2024

[@machinists-shortcuts]

Thanks for the inspiration, I've decided to make and film one for my machine to hold 3mm - 16mm.

[@carlettoburacco9235]

Stefan, you are perfectly in tune with the saying "your world is what you build around you"

[@carlkulyk366]

Very inventive as usual! Nicely done.

[@angelramos-2005]

Very smart changes,Stefan.Thank you.

[@jasonh3109]

What an elegant solution as always! Thank for the great content.

[@williammills5111]

As expected from you, simple, elegant and well thought out. Thank you for sharing!

[@CraigsWorkshop]

I love your inventive approach to problem solving 👍 Thanks for sharing these great ideas.

[@roylucas1027]

What a great idea! Thanks for doing all the brain work on this. I’m going to see if I can set up this on my lathe.

[@StuartsShed]

That’s excellent - looks like a great solution and piece of equipment.

[@iteerrex8166]

I really liked this setup when you first showed it, and now it’s improved. Awesome 👍

[@ryebis]

This is brilliant, I have been going back and forth on adding this and reducing reliance on the tail stock, this idea sells it for me. Cheers!

[@noberet]

Great video, always glad to see a new one from you.

[@greglaroche1753]

Great idea for the drill chuck. I may think about doing something similar. Thanks for the video!

[@paulpipitone8357]

You can talk about how paint dries and you will have my full attention

[@Mr.Avuncular]

Well done my friend! Thats a great use of all the equipment for other purposes.👍👍

[@TheUncleRuckus]

Another great video with helping information as always Stefan, thank you for uploading! 👍👍

[@glennstasse5698]

Just brilliant! Clever solutions that make work faster and more accurate.

[@baligaal252]

Hey Stefan, I'm very please with this solution. Really like your modern way of solving things or how your brain works. In Hungary (I hope this doesn't scare you too much. We have a very bad reputation in Europe. Should I say I'm from the another Hungary) they teach the tailstock drilling at school and I saw earlier a teacher who shoved the toolpost drilling like a special or a "crazy way" of drilling things on lathe, which is so lame in nowadays. Anyway, thank you all your work and I so much happy to see that the manual machining is not ended in 30 years ago.

[@cameronjohnston5748]

Thank you. I Really appreciate how you explain the reason behind your thinking. It makes more sense then, especially for me being self taught by watching videos.

[@cvantrease1231]

Set one up for my lathe at work after seeing you do this on your old tool post and haven’t drilled a hole under 1” with a tail stock since.

[@joseph.d5187]

Thank you for your video. I enjoy anything you create. I watch some multiple times. Especially your Christmas shop tour. I would love if you had Super Thanks.

[@bcbloc02]

reminds me i need to make a block to prevent my toolpost from rotating when drilling.

[@tonywilson4713]

As always with you Stefan its good and at the very least gets people to consider what they might do.

[@Engineerd3d]

It's funny you post this video today. I was in my shed turning a bushing for a yard machine. And I was drilling through some stainless. It was slow going with the tail stock, and I thought about it and figured it's time to adapt the Stefan method. And here you post about it and revised.

[@user-tw9io9nz2m]

Very nice, I’m currently using an ER32 straight shank collet chuck in the multifix boring bar holder. It works well but tool changes are slow. I’m looking to do something like you have, a drill chuck in a tool block. But first a digital readout… still some ways to go

[@drevil8519]

Dammit.... I wish we had guys like you here in south africa.

[@gibbsey9579]

I watched the video you posted some time ago when you first went to the solid block, and since then I also removed my cross slide and it is much better, plus it's only three minutes to put it back.. Now I'll have to make a tool holder to do my drilling. Thanks Stefan

[@joell439]

Awesome tips - thank you Stefan. Now you have two options. I suspect as time goes on you will continue to use both when the conditions warrant. 👍👍😎👍👍

[@JK-tm7vj]

Perhaps a stupid idea, but if you would put your 8mm drill chuck in the opposite direction in the toolholder you could clamp the shaft of the drill and put the flutes in the hole that you drilled at the back of the chuck. This way you could clamp a long drill real short without clamping the flutes. Falls ich mich auf englisch nicht klar genug ausdrücken konnte die Idee noch mal auf deutsch: Wenn man das Bohrfutter entgegen der Bohrrichtung in den Werkzeughalter einspannt kann man den Bohrer extrem kurz einspannen.

[@TomZelickman]

That's a great way to adapt your tools to your workflow! It's great that you think along those lines instead of trying to adapt your workflow to your tools... Hope you are well! - TZ

[@Morrisonspouch]

Thanks Stefan

[@billmckillip1561]

Very clever solutions!

[@TrPrecisionMachining]

Very goood video Stefan..thanks for your time

[@HP_rep_mek]

Nice stuff Stefan👍

[@Tezza120]

Yea i'm loving the drill holder on the carriage. I had a job where i had to remove a lot of material from the center of this aluminium part and just leaning on the carriage wheel pushing a 25mm drill through with big fat swirls coming out was so satisfying. Saved heaps of time with quick retracts and back into the cut. Also more feedback than winding in the tailstock.

[@Gottenhimfella]

It can also work for serious drilling under power. My big lathe has a sensitive adjustable trip on the carriage power feed, designed for feeding (when taking heavy cuts or light) into a fixed stop. Works a treat for drilling big holes, up to say 50mm in steel.

[@beautifulsmall]

Capstan / crosslide Frankenstien. drill from the toolpost. ER16 collet extension, was my recent choice.100mm, live tooling with oilite 20mmID bushes and thrust bearings. Had to tap the back end but it was open.Made in a 32mm al block to clamp in the toolpost, driven off the back pulley to a electric car BLDC motor.

[@greglaroche1753]

Great idea!

[@outsidescrewball]

Nice modification…enjoyed

[@EmmaRitson]

thats got me thinking

[@ROBRENZ]

Very nicely done Stefan! ATB, Robin

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Thank you for watching and the time to drop a comment, Robin 🙏🤝🖖

[@emiliog.4432]

What a great imagination. Very important to come up with these ideas.

[@TraditionalToolworks]

Very well thought out. I saw this on IG, but somehow missed this accompanying video. Very well done! 👏 EDIT: one day I hope to make one of those solid tool posts.

[@johndecoteau629]

niiiice! looks fast and efficient!

[@edgeeffect]

That drill chuck certainly looks really good!

[@MsBrouzouf]

I think you could mount the chuck backwards in the boring bar holder. Then the drill bits would be also mounted backwards, chucked on the rod, not on the flutes.

[@Gottenhimfella]

Interesting idea. Wouldn't reduce the overhang (hence potential deflection) of the drill shank though, as it's still governed by the distance of the end of the flutes from the drill point. It occurred to me it would be a great workaround for drilling the end of a workpiece which was almost too long for the lathe (and whose diameter prevented it being "swallowed" in the headstock spindle), although it would require removing the tailstock, and possibly refitting the compound slide.

[@Paul-FrancisB]

Perfect timing a new video for a Sunday night 😊

[@davidsnyder2000]

@Paul Simmons….your time zone Paul is so different from ours here in the States. It’s late afternoon on Saturday. Really cool 🙂👍

[@michaelrice500]

Thank you!

[@NellsMechanicalManCave]

Very clever! I do like this idea.😊

[@akfarmboy49]

Interesting chuck arrangement. Sometimes I think you should have a Hardinge chucker lathe

[@StefanGotteswinter]

I dont think I would be happy with any machine that has not a proper carriage, powerfeed and leadscrew.

[@bobbob8229]

@@StefanGotteswinter a Hardin"ingy"toolroom lathe is what we were probably thinking of. "Corse"yude hafta put up with the "colonies"thread pitches. moderndaytinker here in the "rogue colony"of the USA. i have much respect for your truly free spirit,of inventive thinking 😎👍

[@Gottenhimfella]

@@bobbob8229 Hey, I live in a former British colony, and (in common with all the others except one) we cheerfully switched to metric half a century ago, with no regrets!

[@brettwatty101]

Cool setup. Looks Like the exact same compound slide on my Emco Compact 10.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Yeah, i think Emco did a lot of similar assemblies on the 10/11 sized lathes.

[@jdmccorful]

I like it! Enjoyed.

[@Sigmatechnica]

That's a nice solution

[@brandontscheschlog]

Way to improve the toolpost drill chuck. Thanks for sharing

[@hrenes]

Inspiring!

[@pirminkogleck4056]

Yesss! GTWR !

[@ElectricGears]

How about using the boring bar holder to clamp in the rotating (gear tooth) part of the chuck, then adding a large hand wheel to the back of the chuck body? Realistically, the sleeve isn't a precision fit on the body. But you remove the sleeve from an existing chuck, then bore out a blank multifix block so that the block becomes the sleeve. The back of the body would drilled and tapped to accept the hand wheel as you did with the straight sleeve in your original design. The large hand wheel would eliminate the need for a key and you could fit in a larger chuck.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Haha, thats a great Idea, to be honest! I will look into it and maybe steal it :-D

[@paulmorrey4298]

Thanks

[@Vinlaell]

You cheater I mean genius, I guess they're going to have to start designing tools like this for now on

[@mauri4763]

Thank You Stefan, excellent video as always. I hope you can show us A. how to locate easily the centerline for drilling? B. You have 40 toolholders with tools, do you have a solution to store them?

[@jacopoandreo8776]

Very intersting solution witht he boring bar holder! I wonder if it may not be more convenient for the operator and less invasive for the holder itself to drill a hole in the top face instead of milling a recess in thefar side of it (and cutting part of the treads for the clamping screw). Cips may be a problem, but a rubber plug should be an easy fix for that. Thanks a lot for the video, allways a pleasure see your nice solutions to improve workflow!

[@markshort9098]

If there's enough room, Instead stead of a rubber plug maybe a 2 piece bronze bush and leave the key in the chuck permanently.. saves always looking for the key as well

[@seldendaniel8819]

Bravo!

[@crichtonbruce4329]

I had three videos lined up to watch then saw: New video from Stefan! Guess who moved to the top of the watch list?

[@HM-Projects]

Love it, was there a specific drill chuck you purchased with low run out etc ? I might try making something like this for my Aloris knock off.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

nope, thats just a generic cheap chuck from Röhm. 25Eur maybe?

[@erniepike3902]

I would add slots at 120 deg to access the other keyholes to tighten evenly,

[@waldemarii]

Why not get a second key and make a fixed thumb wheel from another key position? Thumb wheel could be sufficient with small drills. Or use the same key position with fixed thumb wheel that has hex for using a spanner or something like that for final tightening.

[@Andreas-tw4cm]

Nice

[@michaelidarecis]

You do great work did you think about using Universal collet setup. You can have more accuracy with the drill and have a few of them this way you can have quick change on a few sizes you are working on at the same time. Swiss screw machines have a lot of thin profile collets.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

I have two options for collets on the toolpost - ER collets and the narrow collets from the FP1 (They look like slim 5C collets). But I rarely use those two options on everyday work, as its to much work for me to switch collet sizes around.

[@avijitDrilling92]

Beautiful ❤️

[@lohikarhu734]

I was just wondering if you could put a detent into the 30 mm shank, or into the boring bar holder, so that you could "pop out" the drill chuck to change bits, maybe use a keyless chuck (if it was small enough?) and then pop the shank back into the holder, with the detent giving you some kind of repetitive fixturing, maybe as the detent ball is clamped into position when closing the holder (maybe add a cam-type closing mechanism?) Lots more complicated, seldom a "good thing", just an idea or two...

[@MarkW321]

Cool.

[@be007]

like the throughole through the chuck and the short chuck, realy nice solution ! btw, that clamping on the arbor just on one side/the end of the toolholder, aint that a little bit iffy ?

[@agie170hss2]

Very, very clever solution! Did you consider adding a 3rd pinch bolt toward the forward end of where your 30mm adapter sits since you are not using the one to the far left?

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Nope :D The one pinch clamps already insanely well - I have other tools with a relative short 30mm shank, that also use one pinch screw on the boring bar holders, never had issues there.

[@ecliptix1]

6xM3 is as good as an M18, that's how the metric system works right? :)

[@mathieub3953]

Nope, but we have easy to understand namings for material strength, e.g. 8.8 screws hold 800N/mm^2. You will also find all torque values and maximum clamping force for each type of screws in tables using metric units. Nm for torque and N for clamping force. No need to adjust for inch-pound or foot-pound for torque.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

He made a joke :-)

[@useditem_tk]

1 is actually 1. 1 meter : 100cm : 1000mm. ** For Hex Key and Hex Nut and common use thread pit : M5 Bolt : 5mm : Hex Key #4 and #8 spanner. M6 Bolt : 6mm : Hex Key #5 and #10 spanner.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

In metric its number of screws times the squareroot of two to get the larger screw equivalent ;)

[@maikeydii]

If the forces are equally distributed, 6x M3 8.8-strength screws can hold about 13kN of axial clamp load and for one M18 bolt of equal strength, it's about 86N... :)

[@robertklein9190]

Stefan always amazes, he must come up with solutions in his sleep. Would it be easier just to add another lathe. The "HANDS"? he must be working on heavy equipment outside, we know he's not a surgeon, but, anyone have some rags.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

My hands? I go climbing/bouldering at least twice a week, thats why my skin on the fingers look a bit torn.

[@kidkv]

Set the cross slide table and lock it in place after setting the tail stock, you can unlock the tail stock and slide it back for qiuck chip removing and slide it back. Joe Pie shows it.

[@davidrule1335]

To much work and no power feed on the tail stock.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

That works with larger drills, but when you deephole drill with a 1mm drill, thats very optimistic ;)

[@russelldold4827]

Excellent! I see this solution deals with most of the reasons for your rack-feed tailstock on your previous lathe. Are there any situations where you miss the rack-feed tailstock on this machine?

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Nope, I dont miss it the least :-) The carriage does exactly the same, just with more stroke, powerfeed and a digital readout :)

[@Der_Edelpfuscher]

Coole Idee, wäre ich gar nicht so drauf gekommen. Was du auch noch machen kannst, wenn z.B. der Bohrfutterschlüssel andauernd verloren geht, am Albrecht Futter hinten den Halterring abmachen und mit einer Adapterhülse direkt im Multifixhalter festmachen, das spart auch schonmal ein paar Millimeter. Wenn du ganz fancy bist, drehst du den Multifixhalter aus, so dass das Futter bis zur Rändelung versenkt ist. Das wäre denke ich mal die eierlegende Wollmilchsau😅

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Ich hab tatsächlich überlegt den Futterschlüssel fest einzubauen - Entweder gelagert in einer Buchse, oder nur mit einem Federblech, dass ihn am Runterfallen hindert :D

[@Der_Edelpfuscher]

@@StefanGotteswinter auch nicht schlecht oder gleich ein NC Futter nehmen, da braucht’s nur einen Inbus, aber keine Ahnung ob es die ohne Steilkegel gibt

[@StefanGotteswinter]

@@Der_Edelpfuscher Ich hab ein Mimatic NC Bohrfutter mit einer VDI30 aufnahme, das passt direkt in den Multifix Bohrstangenhalter, aber das Ding hat einen Schneckenantrieb mit irre großer Untersetzung, von ganz auf zu ganz zu dreht man sprichwörtlich durch :D Dafür ist die Spannkraft von dem Futter absurd gut.

[@7duser10]

Hi Stefan, maybe I missed it, would you ever consider trying to modify the lathe by adding a DIY taper attachment and disconnect for the crossfeed nut? Nice video.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

not really - for long slender tapers I can always use an offset center in the tailstock, short tapers can be turned with the compound and very short tapers I just cut with an form tool. I dont do enough long taperwork to justify a taper attachment.

[@KIJs-gc6ux]

As always... perfection pays off ! Thought this year was supposed to be a sabbatical year..?😊

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Yes, sabbatical from my dayjob, running my own shop fulltime :)

[@KIJs-gc6ux]

i know the feeling 😂

[@timkusicko4921]

Clever

[@thefixerofbrokenstuff]

Slicker than socks on a rooster

[@RicktheRecorder]

Always fascinating and instructive, though the claimed convenience is entirely dependent on a DRO.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

yes. But these days a DRO is so standard and readily availible, that its ok with me.

[@paulfisher1160]

How are your T slot fillers held in? Love the idea with access to grease points and fixing for original top slide.

[@carlhitchon1009]

They are for oil, not grease.

[@StefanGotteswinter]

They are a super tight fit in the t-slot and also have one setscrew thats very lightly pressing down into the bottom of the t-slot, just for safety.

[@fredio54]

What is the make and model of both of your small keyed chucks? I checked the description and your website before asking out of coutesy but had no luck. Cheers :-)

[@StefanGotteswinter]

The keyed chucks are made by Röhm.

[@spitefulwar]

Dieser Gotteswinter... kostet mich wieder mal die Nachtruhe!

[@seabreezecoffeeroasters7994]

Next project cut down the comically long chuck key and add a speed handle 😁

[@leetofska9283]

Hey stefan good job as always! I need your help, i try to purchase a pair knife edge flat stones from you for months now, i dont know if u dont get my e-mails (spam ?)or if you are overloaded with work, an answer here would be appreciated. Thanks

[@joansparky4439]

so no one-shot oiling of the lathe (yet)? ;-) Thx for show and tell. PS: multifix vs the other 90/45 deg exchangeable toolpost systems.. do you need the multi-angle option of the multifix often or would a 90 deg change toolpost suffice for 90%(+?) of the cases/work already?

[@StefanGotteswinter]

I use 99% 0° and 90° :D The multifix I use, because its the easiest to purchase here, and quasi-industry standard in germany for manual lathes.

[@joansparky4439]

@@StefanGotteswinter Thanks!

[@mattmanyam]

Is there any reason not to make the key a permanent part of this fixture, if it continues long-term? (Maybe a support bearing, and a wheel-crank instead of the sliding t-bar?)

[@StefanGotteswinter]

Yep, I considered that. Maybe one day, when I have the mood to do some more engineering on it :)