The CHEAPEST way to Develop C41 Color Film at Home

A slow and detailed look out how to get the most out of the Fuji Hunt C41 Kit and how to make it last as long as possible.
Original instructions:
kevinthephotog...
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Some links (affiliate) to equipment used:
10ml Glass Sample Vials - amzn.to/3U4kH0w
Glass Transfer Pipettes - amzn.to/3HkVgAe
500ml Brown Glass Wideneck Bottles - amzn.to/4aZ2aIV
Reverse Osmosis Filter - amzn.to/3tOA96l

[@JacobKozlek]

Great video! Very informative and useful

[@miroslavbazitov183]

Thank you again Ben, this video helped me mix the chemicals with confidence !

[@Ben_Hurr_]

Glad it was helpful!

[@sofiafilmcom]

Thanks! Realy helpful!

[@b6983832]

For hand developing C-41, I have found using stop bath useful. It is not necessary by any means, as bleach is acid enough to stop any developing. But it will make quite lot of gas, and bleach leaking in water bath is not nice. Using acetic acid stop will eliminate this stop, and as CH3COOH costs almost nothing, and is available anywhere, this has been useful for me in controlling the development times precisely when developing by hand in tanks. Just use acetic acid, and never citric acid based "non-stink" products meant for black & white, such as Ilford Ilfostop or Fomacitro. Some people say this is OK, but one known photo chemist from Kodak was very strict in this matter, saying it is not compatible with any color process. I don't know the exact reason, but I assume some citrates would probably interfere the process somehow. Storing part C in small vials has worked for me for many years. This is the chemistry I normally use for C-41, and has always produced very good results, and for a reasonable price compared with some small kits. Calculating development time increases by film processed is a waste of time, as it is virtually impossible to control the process at one second accuracy when developing in a tank. I use one liter batches, and develop not more than 12 rolls of 135-36 with each. For the first 6 rolls, I use the standard 3:15 development time, and for films 7-12, the time will be 3:30. I have used Kodak style agitation, with quite hard shaking, as color film practically can't be overagitated as B&W film can. 15 seconds of agitation, and 5 times, once per second every 30 seconds afterwards. Remainder of time the tank will stay in 37.8°C water bath controlled by sous vide and a thermometer.

[@alexander_c._whitehead]

I was surprised to see a video from you recommended to me on my home page. I hope you continue to make them. C41 seems like too much effort for me but I agree with your previous video that black and white developing is too easy not to bother doing. Colour film is too expensive anyway and I'm concerned about future availability, I can't see black and white ever being impossible to get a hold of

[@Ben_Hurr_]

Funny coincidence! At least it's being shared... I will try my best! I actually want to start shooting more B/W, although it's not so hyped at the moment, it really gives a timeless look

[@arsenypesterev8738]

Can you not just put protectan in the original container of the part c developer after every time you take a bit to make the solution?

[@kinopilot]

So why not just simply spray butane in the dev part bottle every time you get some? Just get my kit today.

[@b6983832]

The part C of the CD won't keep even this way. Put it in a small glass bottles, one for each batch, well sealed and filled with butane or any inert gas. It will keep this way even longer than in unopened original bottles. If stored in opened container, filled with butane, it will fail in about 2-3 months.

[@mchubble2226]

Great video! Have you tried replenishing these chemicals? Struggling to find replenishment numbers.

[@heatonize]

replenishment is a dying trend in photography. maybe there'd be answers if you asked 20 years ago but it's been hard to really find something that specific nowadays. good luck

[@b6983832]

@@heatonize Do you understand what you are talking about? Probably not. All the processes used commercially are replenished. For C-41 in small batches, I doubt it would be a viable solution though. Without an output of about 10-20 films daily, it is not probably a good idea. In RA-4 though, it can be a good idea. Using developer just one shot is waste in my opinion, but the oxidation is also an issue. So, you won-t be able tu run a system with chemicals not changed in many years, as it is common in minilab environments, but you can replenish one liter after each 10 sheets of 20x25 cm, to keep the colors constant. You could print at least 50 sheets per one liter developer if replenished. Bleah-fix could be replenished until the pH will shift too much due to carryover of developer. This particular kit is not designed for replenishing - the rates for this are not published. You need to use minilab chemstry, such as Environeg or Enviroprint for replenished systems.

[@kimmh0930]

Thanks for great video! Did you also reuse it? or just one time use?

[@gabrielsilvaz4199]

I can actually get 50 rolls of 35 mm with 1 L of unicolor film developer and it only cost $42 max

[@b6983832]

The quality will not be even near the industry standards if pushing chemistry this way. Of course, if expectations are low, and you rely heavily on digital post production, this is possible. But with the film prices of today, it is not a good idea to ruin your films in order to save a few cents for developer. Those "simplified" kits ara always a compromise, and you get better results with professional quality chemistry, such as Fuji Hunt.

[@mccafferty1234]

Links to items

[@Enomem]

I'd love to know where you got the small bottles with the rubber stoppers

[@Ben_Hurr_]

Just added some links to the description!

[@b6983832]

Most shops selling laboratory equipment for chemistry labs can sell small bottles and vials. Also, these shops can provide with bigger bottles for chemistry, measuring glasses, funnels, etc. for much cheaper prices than the photo shops sell these items. They are good for chemistry, as they are made for labs.