The Correct Orientation to Print Boxes | Design for Mass Production 3D Printing

[@slant3d]

Don't want to design your own Support Fins? Get the STL's here: www.angled.xyz/product-page/support-fins-for-tilted-designs-stl

[@saxtalia]

That is awesome. I am new to 3d printing What program do you use for designing and creating the pieces?

[@WiseMonkey87]

@@saxtalia it's fusion 360

[@chriswesley594]

There;s another huge benefit to this slanted printing tyechnique, which you hinted at with mention of a textured finish. Now that NO SURFACE is printed on the bed, it's possible to be very creative with what you print on the surfaces; logos, ridges, grips, etc. all become possibilities.

[@PeasantHunter]

You may also want to print at an angle if the material has a high shrink rate.

[@ethzero]

"3D print on a slant" - Channel name checks out 👍

[@slant3d]

Shift in perspective

[@impetus444]

I think its hilarious that I didn't figure that out til about the 20th video I watched where everything was printed on an angle :D

[@Deaner3D]

"Print with a peg-leg"

[@AshFrankArt]

I've always heard that angled printing is great but never considered how to get over the toppling issue. Thank you for explaining so clearly for us!

[@slant3d]

Glad to help

[@davidboop3550]

Man, I second that. Thank you so much! I just split a part into two pieces where I could have just went with your idea. I truly appreciate your help.

[@MinibossMakaque]

I've been doing something similar, but I just use the paint on supports in Prusa or Orca rather than building a support into the design.

[@jeremypeake8169]

This was exactly what I needed for a complex enclosure design, I was just resigning myself to having to print it in three pieces then saw this. Decided to give it a go and man did it work well! Thanks so much for taking the time to share this trick.

[@henninghoefer]

This is where 3D printing really shines: Have any PCB and _always_ get a case with the perfect mount points. And (traditional) case manufacturers seem to have noticed - prices seem to be coming down... Thank you for your videos (I watched the entire playlist over the last few days 🤓)!

[@daveoliver3909]

I love the clear, concise and quick delivery from this channel.

[@slant3d]

Thank you

[@UltimatePerfection]

I love this series. I don't intend to mass produce anything, but still use this as a design guide for my future projects to avoid failed prints and filament waste (both for ecological and financial reasons).

[@matthewmathis62]

I think that it is so cool how you guys Mass produce 3D printed parts for yourselves and others. And that in doing so, you run into all of these little interesting problems! That are very important to the 3D Printing community, and then you share those things you've learned with other people! It's really cool! It's the collective knowledge of the group, which works because of love.

[@poduck2]

I've just started 3d printing about a month ago. I was thinking that printing diagonally would solve lots of problems, but i hadn't seen a video of anyone doing it. Thanks for explaining this.

[@goury]

It will also introduce a lot of new problems. Another way to solve a lot of problems is to go composite. It can be as simple as just printing different parts each in the most beneficial orientation and then assembling em all together or not so simple as using different methods of manufacturing for different parts. This way does not add many new problems, but does make it much more complicated.

[@thenextension9160]

@@gouryyes I think you are right. These methods are not all or the other. For example the enclosure could be printed slanted but the lid be printed with ideal face facing down for a nice build plate texture.

[@daliasprints9798]

With modern slicers, tree support doesn't cost much material or postproc for the vertical orientation. But diagonal still has lots of benefits. My favorite is that an assembly-relevant dimension of the part isn't dependent on bed offset (which isn't perfectly reproducible) or on layer height quantization.

[@802Garage]

You'll still end up with much better walls using this trick rather than printing them vertically with weak layer lines or horizontally with a 90 degree supported overhang.

[@rbrdly]

Tree support won't be as clean to remove as this method either.

[@lam_xyz]

I would love to have a "noise" texture tutorial! What are good settings, maybe for what shape / use case? What do you think?

[@TEACypher]

I second this, i came across a 3d print at work earlier this week, which i thought was molded, but assured it was 3d printed, this noise could well explain it and i would love to replicate at home

[@briansrcadventures1316]

@@TEACypher try "fuzzy skin" setting in the slicer?

[@DrFailov]

Great tutorial! Definitely will consider trying this. As for noize for outer shell: can you please share your parameters of fuzzy skin to try same? Looks really good 👍

[@riba2233]

they already made it

[@richardyoung5349]

Doesn’t that affect all external walls? If so, it would interfere with tolerances on items that are intended to mate

[@timonix2]

This channel is a gold mine for beginners like me who make their own models to 3D print

[@rubenverster250]

Now I just have to figure out how to design properly ':D

[@jodrafting]

You should learn to use tree supports with the option of baseplate only. Bayer auto-generated easy and clean to remove

[@Art_911]

I do this trick with organic prints at times. As I have an FDM and an SLA printer, I have the mindset of Resin printing that uses the "angle" technique a lot. I've actually (with good success) set up resin prints, exported them, and then printed them with my FDM printer. Meaning I've used the supports generated from the Chitubox to print on my FDM printer. I have not delved into designing custom supports, but it definitely, inspired me to do so. This "fin" idea is really great!.

[@SmashingBricksAU]

Great tip using the thin support on the back side. Can you please post the CAD model so we can have a closer look at the dimensions used in the supports?

[@redfox05nl]

Yes this, would like to understand the support in more detail

[@HuskerTexan]

Not being from the molding world, I had to listen to 3:22 about 50 times. Finally I think he said "sprue" so I looked it up and shazzam - I have learned an entirely new word.

[@_..-.._..-.._]

Same

[@MarkHarrison-rp2tq]

same, I was like, "screw? screw?"

[@Crafty_Chops]

Since I saw this video printing on a slant, I've been using it for a lot of my projects that require strength. I mostly print PLA - my Ender 3 v2 (or me) struggles with PETG. All I can say is thank you so much for showing this. It really make so much sense.

[@allacmc]

I made a box just like this one and printed it exactly that way. It was very good, the best thing in the world is to print at 45 degrees. Thanks for the video.

[@ASassyP]

Feels like using the supporting techniques from resin printing in fdm printing. awesome

[@802Garage]

I took your advice on this from past videos and printed a wall mounted headphones hanger I designed by cutting the back corner off off and printing at an angle. The base was about 45x60mm but now I was only printing about 8x60mm on the build plate. Gave me a super smooth surface on the rounded bottom where the headphones sit rather than lots of ledges from the layer lines. The front and back walls that keep the headphones centered printed fine even at 35-50 degree angles. Not the right approach for every part I think, but makes a lot of sense for many. Of course better to remove from the plate for production too.

[@802Garage]

I did not design a support, but it wasn't needed for such a small part. One of my considerations was also strengthening the two screw holes as you mentioned and making the front wall that keeps the headphones in place stronger by not making the layers perfectly vertical. Worked great the part is very strong despite being a couple mm thick at the front.

[@blaineswaney3611]

I was reflecting on my 3d printing journey and realized that most of the really quality ideas I use, I have got from Slant 3D!

[@carll4992]

Great idea! I like how you keep the video shortened to the point. I don’t like watching videos that are so long that you don’t finish them sometimes. You’re the best!

[@skiplgoebel8450]

You just solved a major issue i had with concrete printing. way to go!

[@TechMasterRus]

Going to print a house on its corner?😅

[@_..-.._..-.._]

@@TechMasterRusyou can fit more of them into a neighborhood.

[@ericzwirnmann8151]

I just did this for a new print that took 7-8hrs. I was a bit nervous as I always used supports. The end result was amazing. 😃 I didn't have a 45' on the bottom edge of my print, it was a 90' point which proved fatal after the first few minutes. I proceeded to add a .04mm base around the point edge that easily shaved off post processing. Thanks for the tilt orientation tip, will be doing this much more often.

[@stacker55]

well i'm immediately glad i stumbled onto this channel. my cad game is about to change

[@CyrusDemar]

Having printed for multiple years, and exposed to the internet for too long. I was really sceptical of this "miraculous" claim. But gave it a look. And it actually makes a lot of sense, most printers print happily at a 45 degree angle and even greater. I'm not a fan of the knurled look, but hey, if it just needs to hold electrical components, looks doesn't really matter. I for one will keep this in mind going forward.

[@reru_personal]

When you guys do tangled testing, will you guys do strength tests with the pieces printed diagonally in addition to the standard flat and vertical?

[@francisbeland8959]

Wow thank you for the great suggestion. I have a box that I was printing up and it was costing a lot only for support. This method allowed me to save 40% of material.

[@cnesler]

Please don’t do this for anything 110v or higher. The reason you get the boxes off the shelf is its UL Listing. The printed solution is great for project boxes but will be a fire hazard for anything plugged into your wall.

[@slant3d]

Correct. The correct material must be used.

[@cnesler]

@@slant3d but it’s not even entirely about the material. Listed products must go through rigorous lab evaluations. I frankly won’t risk a house fire to save some money on something that important. Very cool idea for hobby boxes though, I’ll definitely try it for my Hyperion project.

[@sciencesaves]

Not to mention 3d printed boxes are a hazard because of their limited strength and rigidity when compared to an injection molded UL box

[@Rmstrjim]

@@cnesler yup, it has nothing to do with material and everything to do with MAINTAINING INSURANCE COVERAGE after a fire. Good luck if they even find one of these on the property tbh.

[@HoldYourSeahorses]

Here’s the real way to mass produce the box, have it molded… then it’s water proofed, stronger, and made faster and cheaper.

[@georgestone8099]

Showing the strength difference of a 45 degree print in another video might be cool, with solid numbers and such. I've always thought 45 degree is probably a good general orientation for strength but no ones really done much research on it.

[@legodragonx]

Just curious: why you used the short edge to print it diagonal? All the benefits (strength, surface finish, less support,...) could also be achieved with laying on the long edge.

[@slant3d]

Incorrect

[@OldBenOne]

If you consider each layer as a potential shear line/failure point, I would not place the tabs on top and bottom but on the sides - regardless of the box dimensions.

[@kcalbxof]

i actually built and tested my second printer 5 minutes ago (Tronxy XX11, built from two Tronxy X1's - to make portal instead of arm), you guys are inspiration for me to do so, thank you very much!

[@KensCounselingCouch]

That sounds really cool! Do you have a link or video of your XX11 you built? I'm very curious to see what it looks like and how it prints. Thanks!

[@slant3d]

We appreciate that. Best of luck to you

[@kcalbxof]

@@KensCounselingCouch havent changed anything yet about firmware or even settings, so print quality is really bad. Basically mirrored all of it, so build volume is the same, but it is now more rigid and stable. Noise is the same, though, which is sad. That may be due to usage of cxy-v1 board with bad stepper drivers. That thing is ancient, but for its price (it was 1/3 of a price of anycubic kobra neo which i own), i wont complain. I would be changing plastic stock bed with glass one, then adding heated bed - need to figure out how to make it temperature resistant, acrylic bed base wont be good for 90 C bedtemp i need for PETG, for example. Lots of work to do, but it is quite fun project for me. Here are the photos of it and test print that came on sd card, both of it look lame, tbh. ( ibb.co/30DHG2n ibb.co/kHhTK0N )

[@XavierBergeron]

This is amazing! I will definitely take inspiration from this for future projects. Can I ask what fuzzy skin settings were used for the texture? It looks great!

[@redfox05nl]

Also interested in the fuzzy skin creation

[@Schaub3]

You just made several improvements to an item that i have been making for our company Thank You!

[@Cyromantik]

I learned this by accident when printing the bridge of a stringed instrument on my Ender 3. I had to orient it diagonally with some support primitives to make it fit on the bed, and found that is ended up being one of the strongest objects I'd ever printed.

[@GPTBot1123]

How did he get the texture of that part? I would have thought this was SLS not FDM. Very clean.

[@jeremygilbert3099]

‘Fuzzy’ setting

[@ruthlessluder]

How did you get your surface to be textured and not show any layer lines?

[@jeremygilbert3099]

@@ruthlessluder I’m curious as well.. maybe ‘fuzzy’ setting?

[@vell0cet517]

I love the way your videos expand my thinking of what's possible. Thank you!

[@andresguillen6750]

your videos are gold. thanks for your service!

[@slant3d]

Thanks for watching

[@GlennBrockett]

The bit about built in supports was great. I have not yet tried it on my designs, but I can see the uses. Also, printing at an angle like this would likely be less prone to warping off of the table like a long part would.

[@LoriAnneBrown]

Thanks for this. I am doing a print this way tonight to see if it works for me. Even created a fin though I went all the way to the top with the fin and probably didn't need to do that watching this again.

[@escher22421]

This approach seems like it could be a good one for a core XY printer. But for a bed slinger I think it could be problematic if the part is tall and skinny or if your bed adhesion is not great.

[@slant3d]

Bedslingers are dumb

[@escher22421]

I agree. But I already own one so I've got to deal with it for now. @@slant3d

[@AerialWaviator]

The issue with bedslingers is the G-forces they impart onto a part being printed. So speed, rather acceleration in the sling direction needs to be kept down to reduce potential issues. Bedslinger designs have this a limitation because they were optimized to reduce shipping cost. (by shipping a smaller volume)

[@Lulzigi]

So this is interesting. I have a conveyor belt 3D printer (CR-30) that inherently prints at a 45⁰ angle. I always thought of that as a negative. I think I'll try to design some stuff with that extra strength in mind.

[@chriswesley594]

This looks great, but it occcurs to me that, since ultimately it's those tiny "sprues" which stop the box falling over, then why print the whole support plate behind them? Isn't that a 99.99% waste of print time and filament? Why not just print whatever minimal support those contact point need?

[@bozthescrewup410]

In part because the smaller you make the support the more movement while printing making it more likely to fail. You could definitely refine those but wasting a fin is better than tossing half a part and support material because it failed. Loose more material and more importantly print time that way.

[@Gr8Success]

nice and short and straight to the point . good video . thumbs up

[@HBComics]

was wondering if could use something similar on resin print...always found hard to make bases on resin...but this mm support between the fin and the piece would be the same as using regular automatic supports for resin, right? Hard to think on something that would give support but still be easy to break/separate from the piece after...

[@R67K]

This is awesome! I will try it in a smaller scale. Maybe i dont even need fins. If you turn everything 45° nothing needs to be supported. So simple but effective. Thank you!

[@laytonmiller5865]

This is freaking sweet. This channel gives a lot of great design tips. Good stuff!!

[@slant3d]

Thank you

[@kuldar.]

One of the best 3d printing tutorial on YT ❤

[@slant3d]

Wow, thank you!

[@thomasg3412]

Thanks! Tried the support variation immediately and it worked like a charm 😊 ❤

[@o0GoldSoundz0o]

Just tried out printing at 45 degrees with the fuzzy pattern and it looks amazing, what a great idea!

[@daveanything]

i just realized (3/4 of the way through) is the reason this works is the part is only at a 45 degree angle, which means, the part doesn't need "supports" to help it print, only a support to hold it up in place .. nice work.. !!

[@UncleKennysPlace]

Yep, I have a box where this will work perfectly (but that I now print flat on the bed, which also works perfectly, but the slanted version should be stronger.)

[@peterlanoie]

Hi there Slant 3D. I've only recently started watching your videos, but am finding them informative. Particularly this one. I employed this support and printing technique to print a thin walled air duct that was essentially a 90 degree elbow. I was able to print it without any supports apart from the 45 degree custom support "spine". I did want to comment on your microphone. You appear to be using a Blue Yeti. The microphone pickup elements in this (there are 4) are oriented with their planes parallel to the microphone body axis. The way you have it positioned in the videos is with your voice hitting along the axis (such as is typically seen with normally hand held mics). You should be talking at it laterally, from the side to maximize pickup. Use the pattern knob and try out some positions. You might discover it sounds way better. Cheers!

[@NormanRamsey]

I would love to try this technique on a part i am designing right now, but I am not at all clear on good dimensions for the fin, or on how to shape the connectors from fin to enclosure, or how far apart to space the connectors. Any thoughts where to find some details so hobbyists can use this idea successfully?

[@rogerramjet69]

How to add the texture to outside you mentioned

[@ChrisMuncy]

I love this concept. Will have to give it a shot on some test items. Thanks for sharing. Love the fuzzy look of the print as well.

[@jimgnandt5190]

I tried this and it worked really well, perfect actually.

[@jamesmcintoshjr]

This is also a great technique to avoid print warping.

[@slant3d]

Very true

[@yayinternets]

Great video! Video idea related to this one: You guys should do one about how to add fuzzy skin on designs in both Fusion360 and Shapr3D

[@VariablePenguin]

Why add fuzzy skin to the model when you can just do it in the slicer?

[@tomsko863]

Very good video! Especially showing the original part and how people can essentially remix an existing product, make it better, and include it in a larger project. Good job man.

[@kukoo2993]

So, I’m a ME student and I am wondering why more and more people are moving towards 3D printing mass-manufacturing. In my mind, the only benefits are cheaper startup costs and greater design/item freedom. 3D printers are getting cheaper and you do not need a die made for a certain product you want to injection mold for example; thus allowing anyone to replicate anything they want, whenever they want (within reason… aka tolerance). That being said, injection molding could be done cheaper (large scale), faster (large scale), and will result in an isotropic product, which is innately stronger. I am a big fan of 3D printing, but is there some other aspect I am missing or is the cost and product freedom larger of a factor than I am thinking?

[@jsmith6599]

Let's assume you're a small buisiness startup that produces some electronic gadgets. The bulk of gadget's price come from electronics inside. Comparing to that, the case where it is enclosed is way, way cheaper. Let's assume, you sell not many of those devices per month. Maybe very few. You can order a molded cases from some other manufacturer. But the price of molding form (needs to be cast from metal and machined on CNC) would be too much and in small scale production would never payed off. 3D printers are already cheap and probably you already have one for prototypes. No need for extra hardware. Of course, if the company is big enough, or produces things where majority of cost comes from plastic parts itself - molding is the only way. But sometimes more expensive and slower methods in practice are cheaper and faster.

[@kukoo2993]

@@jsmith6599 thanks for the reply, that makes a lot of sense. I guess when I said “mass manufacturing” I wasn’t really thinking of true mass manufacturing.

[@Syscrush]

I did exactly this when printing some custom Chicago screw fasteners and now I feel retroactively smart.

[@SeanLumly]

I really like this. Primarlily as it eliminates the possibility of bed adhesion problems. But the perks of fewer supports (for grid aligned geometries), and better use of build volume is crazy.

[@_..-.._..-.._]

You have far less area to adhere though, this method is more likely to come loose printing at high speed on a Cartesian (core Z) printer. It does help if you have over-adhesion, but not if you have too little.

[@SeanLumly]

@@_..-.._..-.._ That depends on the support structure built. I've since used the method to good effect, but not at speed. However, it produced a very nice part.

[@limbeboy7]

Should've actually performed stress and strain test. Everything you talked about Is theory, bcuz shear forces are actually 0 in the dead center of an object. Thats the point it changes planes

[@KeithGroover]

Good stuff! Can you do a tutorial about fuzzy skin? Specifically how you would make just certain surfaces fuzzy while leaving the rest clean. Thanks!

[@jmangus83]

I know in my slicer. It asks how far out you want the protrusions and how far apart you want them to be away from each other. Then it asks if you want all surfaces, just outer, or just inner

[@KeithGroover]

@@jmangus83Yeah, I'm using prusaslicer, and how it defines "inner" and "outer" surfaces seems really finicky. I've resorted to using a hack I found, where you use the "text" feature and write a bunch of "||||||||" and then stretch it over the surfaces you want to be fuzzy. It's a pretty crappy system, so I'm wondering how it should be done.

[@petemenuez]

Which slicer are you using? @@jmangus83

[@AmirKhan-qx2lr]

@@jmangus83 which slicer?

[@ADBBuild]

@@AmirKhan-qx2lr In Prusa slicer, its called "Fuzzy Skin".

[@Sideloader99]

how did you add the noise to the outside of the print? Great look. thank you

[@ofonwilliam]

This is legendary, you just gained a subscriber

[@mattjnewham]

The “noise” aspect is new to me but makes so much sense - how do you achieve this?

[@ADBBuild]

In Prusa slicer, its called "Fuzzy Skin".

[@mattjnewham]

@@ADBBuild thank you very much

[@TheCloudPuff]

*Get split diagonally.* But on the serious note, I do appreciate the support building tip. I never thought of making my own support in cad. I wonder if I can just make a 45 degree support separately and print them both together touching each other (placed in the slicer tool).

[@patrickriggs3433]

Yes, you are about to. I know in Cura slicer specifically, you can import an object and then specify it as being support material. I have not specifically done this, so there may be a steep learning curve to making sure everything is aligned and not intersecting.

[@cuzzin9577]

This is very helpful for a project I hope I 1day get to make :) thank you for being so open about your best production practices

[@slant3d]

Glad we can help

[@justinbanks2380]

Very useful tip/trick! By adding noise to the print to get the finish, how do you do that? Is that like fuzzy skin?

[@sth1990]

It's all nice and sunshine as long as you are printing with PLA, how do you deal with warping of ABS/ASA or PA6 on such parts?

[@slant3d]

Nothing changes

[@cluebin8398]

There are cases where slanted printing makes sense, but this example box isn't one of them. Printing it with the bottom flat on the bed in the normal way gives you the flattest mounting surface, layer lines that are least likely to split and screw holes that are the most resistant to splitting. Not to mention it will print in the shortest amount of time. Adding height by tilting it will slow down printing because it increases the number of layers. But for boxes that are fully enclosed like water tanks and such, then slant printing can eliminate all internal support and solve support removal nightmares.

[@theX24968Z]

for that nice kind of matte texture, i've noticed bambu's PLA-CF material does a good job at producing that kind of texture without needing to add noise to the 3d print.

[@Hotwire_RCTrix]

I tried this yesterday on a small project and it worked well. As it was only 2 items I just used Cura custom and auto supports in combination. Thanks

[@endotherm]

I just love that "fuzzy" texture on the outer surface. So simple, but it disguises so much and gets rid of a lot of tell-tale 3D printed features. Printing on a diagonal allows you to "fuzzy" each face. If you print it "flat", you cannot apply it to the top and bottom surfaces. Diagonally, the top and bottom are literally a single line. Tilt it in all axes and the top and bottom become a single point.

[@electronsmove]

I found on my printer that most things print better at about 40 degrees. I use tree supports when necessary but usually find an angle to eliminate supports. I like the fin Idea.

[@Vector3DP]

Great tip. It's worth considering though that this will also increase the mass and print time. You notice on the slicer that you get additional walls when you print on the diagonal to ensure vertical shell thickness during printing, all those purple walls. You could maybe add another 2 walls to the flat print for a faster print with similar weight and strength.

[@obst-box]

interesting technology. I just tested it on a small case. it was printed well. printing at an angle helped to minimize shrinkage of ABS plastic. thanks!

[@Nazreen]

Just wow. Glad that i discovered this channel earlier. ❤

[@numadelacretaz]

thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, you just saved my project !

[@ScotTheGr8]

Great video. I've tried printing at an angle a few times now and it works great. Grabbed the fins you were selling because my CAD-fu is still a work in progress. Was wondering what the best way to use the fin STLs is? Is the intent to use in the slicer because importing a STL into the CAD program isn't working very well. Thanks for this and other great tips from your videos!

[@chrisbryden8102]

Well. That’s the fastest I’ve ever slammed the subscribe button. Thanks for sharing!

[@andreas_elias]

What if you wanted to print diagonally because of the benefits you described but you also wanted to add a logo or something to the box? How should it be designed than? Like an outline on the box so it could be glued on latter? What is your recomendation for this case?

[@TinTalon]

New to your channel. What is this “noise” you use? Didn’t really understand it. Is there a video you did on this topic? Really enjoy the videos and learning some nice tricks of the trade.

[@gularz1982]

Brilliant design! How did you get that beautiful texture again? Is it done with some slicer options? One can see no layers at all - it’s fantastic!

[@jetchill1591]

Any videos on waterproofing 3d prints could not find any

[@fafane65]

Oh! I always use the straight edge overlap for lid when i need it to seal and self adjust, but this inclined edge look way more better. I give it a try straightaway 👍

[@JimMcGrath25]

Thank you for sharing your custom supports techniques. Brilliant

[@slant3d]

Thanks

[@scottdrobina5278]

Great content, thank you! It was very difficult to see the details of the box in your hand because it was black and the video backdrop is dark. I suggest using white filament for the items you present in your hand. It is just a suggestion. Your videos and content are awesome!

[@Kaiser_257]

As always awesome content, awesome ideas, awesome advices, awesome explanation, awesome everything

[@slant3d]

Thanks!

[@teenflon]

Why do you need the fin? Surely a nice brim for build plate adhesion and the entire print could be done with no supports at all?

[@dmolnar]

Clever idea! The "noise" to the finish is that added in the slicer?

[@ADBBuild]

In Prusa slicer, its called "Fuzzy Skin".

[@hate-conductor]

Apart from a cool surface and a small space saving, there are no advantages to this approach. Of the minuses: 1. Holes lose their geometry. When printed horizontally they remain round and only slightly inaccurate, but when printed at an angle they stretch slightly towards the slant. 2. Support appears. When printing horizontally, it is not needed at all, even this small detail as in the example. 3. Increased strength is an “imaginary advantage”. In fact, if you have problems with sintering layers (this is what can cause a part to delaminate), then you essentially just change the direction in which your part breaks, that's all the difference. It’s better to select the settings so that the part is printed more solidly (for example, raise the temperature, lol) and calmly print them horizontally.

[@slant3d]

Incorrect

[@hate-conductor]

@@slant3d no, u

[@Brocknoviatch]

Super impressed! I would have thought you’d need more support. Definitely going to try this. The noise looks good and would also hide some imperfections like seams etc. thanks for sharing.

[@slant3d]

Underated surface texture

[@christopherpepin6059]

As an alternative to designed supports you could always design the support triangle as a separate part and simply merge the two models in the slicer. For any given angle the triangle part is going to be the same for every print, you just need a couple variations for different heights.

[@tommaxwell429]

Ok, I get the benefits and understand the support. But I don't understand the edge of the part that touches the bed. In theory, it is just an edge with zero width. How do you design the apron or puddle for that edge so it will come off easily and leave a clean edge?

[@Damien-qq4nz]

How do you add noise to the print?

[@literarynick]

I appreciate the video! Out of curiosity, which 3D modeling software or CAD software are you using here?