The Damp Industry Con

[@damo87araimo]

Damp guys in Australia quoted me $3800. It just didn't seem right to me. I did some of my own investigating and sure enough the damp issue was being caused by a split in the bathroom sink waste water pipe. Water was pouring into the double brick cavity and running out the brick vent. Damp people told me it was rising damp and wanted to apply a special coating. Rather, I fixed the problem with a section of PVC pipe and some glue, $50 all up.

[@JamesJones-jy8vs]

What can one say?.. Hat's off for exposing this travesty. But where's the law in all of this, these people who are conning the public should be held to account.

[@WarmDryHome]

Yup - but they aren't - look at our politicians... I give up..

[@LesCM19]

Maybe he was a one-off but we had Rod Smith who covers Lincolnshire for Peter Cox Ltd and he told us about the damp meter trick and drilled into dry brick for us as well. It was just a condensation problem which was what we suspected. So they're not all bad, just 89% of them!

[@SusieC510]

I can't believe what I'm seeing (but I can, actually). I've been told that my walls are damp and yes, those pronged machines "proved" the point. Sooooo, thank you for highlighting this issue/concern about what we, the concerned householders, are talked into believing!

[@ashleyk7518]

The thumbs down people must be the con artists who use the dodgy 'damp meter'.

[@WarmDryHome]

I guess they are...!

[@thanxx]

20% moisture contents good to burn for firewood. great videos by the way. got a mate with a house (1930's) that got damp. the outsides covered in cement render. could this be trapping moisture?

[@captainchaos3053]

That poor girl has no idea what a carbide bicycle lamp is. But that shonky plastering must have taken her for a ride.

[@siliconedude]

My dad was adamant damp wasn't the issue in my house. I got a few quotes from damp proofing experts and they were all around £1200 to £1400. Looking at this video shows me exactly the same issue I have in my house, and it looks like you've just saved me a lot of money! Keep up the good work! Adam

[@JohnPreston888]

Thanks for this video. Although it is not "proof", it is a very helpful alternative to absolute faith in the meters used to "show" that damp is a big problem. Reading through other comments (especially Damp Survey Northwest) have helped as well.

[@BalitskyMedia]

Damp Experts hate him....

[@philipwood123]

Brilliant Peter. learning a lot from you. Many thanks

[@herbertdeleon7626]

Hi Peter! Your videos regarding damp in houses are very educational and makes us aware of it. I just wonder if you have a contact number to call regarding damp on my house too.

[@DesiRoti]

Brilliant video thank you for showing us, i alot of damp in one property and some in another and i'am about to deal with it by changing my gutters and using mould spray so i hope this works. This video is really useful information to know so you don't get conned. Thank you keep up the good work.

[@andrewbroughton4295]

There are so many companies doing this

[@steveg59]

Absolutely agree with this video. A friend of mine has hacked off plasterwork on all of his walls despite the fact that most of them showed no signs of any damp whatsover. He is not a practical person and so wanted my opinion. As i have said some of the walls were "damp" but i think that they told him that he needed them all doing as it made for a bigger and therefore more profitable job for them. Ps all of the outside walls had all previously been damp proof injected so that hadnt worked anyway.

[@WarmDryHome]

Typical damp industry con. He just lost a load of money. All he probably needed was better ventilation..Hard to properly diagnose from comments - but usually if outside sources - like high ground levels, leaky gutters etc, broken drains - been eliminated, it means the only other sources really are from people in the house - so ventilate, ventilate, ventilate! And keep gentle, background heat all the time so walls cannot get cold and suffer interstitial condensation.. Good to hear from you!

[@WarmDryHome]

salts from the chimney - need ventilation in the cupboards for a start. Try that, and if no improvement, take plaster off inside cupboards. have a look at other vids about salts in chimneys, or our website - www.heritage-house.org..

[@kelldavis9741]

Peter, where would you get rising damp, as an Australian pest controller, I haven't come across it... or even looked for it.. as what you are doing makes more sense, we always look at the condensation first I haven't inspected many properties along the coastal areas.. would you find rising damp in say an old style yacht clubhouse? and is it found in only brick wall premises?

[@kelldavis9741]

Kell Davis We have a lot of mould in our public housing estates... however, once again, this is the concrete render causing the problem and the lack of ventilation .. the plaster peels, once again because of the poor ventilation and the build up of condensation within each unit / flat.... also as it is public housing cheap paint is used.. and heaters that also aren't flued correctly .. many reasons, before we could jump to the rising damp conclusion... well done by the way

[@bensalvage123]

Hi Peter Great videos. I have a question about the speedy meter. Does the heat of drill bit effect the water content of the sample. Also atmospheric moisture, or lack of? Thanks Ben

[@spendtimesavemoneydiy]

Some great advice, thanks for the video!

[@chrissutton456]

Peter I need some advice. I am currently under the process of selling my property. Now the buyer's surveyor came round and poked the walls with the wood moisture tool. Tells me I've got a damp problem. So I got a damp proofing company to come round and they tell me the same thing. Now I can't seem to find a company that uses the carbide kit for true testing of dampness. Any chance you point me in right direction. Or even better for you to make a visit?

[@LesCM19]

+chris sutton If the wallpaper & paint is staying on, why would they even test it? Older buildings with lime mortar allowing any rising damp moisture out via the pointing. Regular masonry paint (not lime wash, I think it is called, which breathes) traps moisture and rising damp in the walls then it will exit via the rooms lifting off paint& wallpaper, blowing plaster etc

[@Cazzahutch]

Please can you advise me on best way to deal with what looks like a damp problem? I don't know where to start? I have bought a small ex-miners cottage which has not been maintained for over 40 years. There is an appearance of damp to the right of the fireplace wall and continuing along from there there are signs of powdery crumbling cement on the base of the walls under and just above the skirting boards. I suspect that when the fireplace has been blocked in by installing the old type gas back boiler system which supplies a copper boiler. no thought would have been given to rain coming down the chimney and then pooling and soaking through the brick work. I am going to have the old boiler system removed and the fireplace opened again. What should be my next step? I would be most grateful for your guidance. Carol

[@rachelc4347]

I have just been told by a well known company that I too have rising damp and need to have the chemical injections to the outside and 1 metre of plaster removed and replaced on most walls inside, this is undoubtedly going to cause a lot of expense and upset, I really need a second opinion asap but I am unsure of who to ask, I need someone who will diagnose correctly and not just be out to make money from us poor folk, any advice on how to find someone trustworthy? also when it states a free survey on many of the damp specialist websites, is it really totally free? really new to all this so any help would be greatly appreciated.

[@WarmDryHome]

You dont need anything is my guess. Ventilation maybe - need to first get some info about moisture in the building - 15 to 20 degrees C and 50 to55% RH is norm - above that, you need help to lower it. Most damp issues are easy to sort. Photos? could email [e-mail]...

[@gasmeter24]

if Kenwood........ I wouldn't! ..........this is very informative. thank you

[@WarmDryHome]

Kenwood are one of the worst of the fraudsters - we have literally dozens, if not hundreds of their quotes - all of which are the same, all of which diagnose rising damp where there never is - and all of which we prevented - most of their quotes are around £12,000 for London - utter fraud - a lot of people being conned out of a lot of money over problems mainly solved with better ventilation..

[@andrewwheeldon3957]

Peter, please can you help us! Our house is very damp and we have had most of the damp proofing 'solutions' done on the property - Injection DPC, Painted exterior walls, Waterproof concrete render inside in ground floor rooms, unused chimneys capped off (not sure if that's bad or not), underfloor spray foam insulation in living room (which seems okay actually, there is still ventilation below the foam layer), spray foam insulation on the eaves in the loft, roll insulation in the loft boards. i would love you to come and examine our house, i think the 'damp' is off the scale! My plan is to rectify all this carnage starting with extractor fans in the kitchen and bathroom (i am wondering about one in every room, surely there are ones with timers so you can time them to come on when you're not in (noise))!. Get the bloody paint off the exterior walls. We've already got 2 dehumidifiers. Question: Do we have to get the concrete render off the downstairs interior walls? there doesn't seem to be any problems at the moment but it was only completed 6 months ago. We have a patch of damp in a circle behind a no-longer-used chimney back, i have removed the pointing and re-pointed and then re-painted (so as to match the rest of the house) all to no avail, the patch of damp is still there. If we lean anything against the inside of an upstairs exterior wall for any protracted length of time (say 6 weeks) there will be a black 'mould' mark to the exact shape of the item! Since we have lived here we seem to get every ailment going, our neighbour has been hospitalized twice due to breathing difficulties and the doctors couldn't find ANY cause. My wife and i always seem to have minor chest infections (we are normally very fit). Could you please give us the benefit of your advice and please keep up the good work. It's time the government looked into this seeing as they already know about the potential scams being perpetrated throughout the land and set up a recompense insurance scheme.

[@TheMiiiyyykkk]

IndiaRubber Man I bet you have solid brick walls and the damp problem is due to condensation on the cold external walls or you have a pointing problem where the rain is penetrating the mortar. Solutions...insulate the exterior walls (inside your home )with foam backed plaster board,repoint and paint the external wall with a Siloxane Silicone if necessary ? PS...reduce water vapour by opening windows when cooking curry & bathing !

[@andrewwheeldon3957]

mikey ardilla Our bloody walls are PAINTED (aaaaargh) pointing s'not bad but the condensation can't escape because of the paint and the modern plaster and concrete render on the inside (aaaaargh again) . I am going to get the paint off the walls and fit electric extractor fans in the kitchen and bathroom.

[@LesCM19]

+IndiaRubber Man We had condensation in a front room that has two solid outer walls and ditto with kitchen. Local builders recommended all sorts of stripping back to brickwork and French drains outside the walls. We suspected condensation not rising damp. Rod Smith of Peter Cox came round and confirmed this for free, did the drilling into dry brickwork and explained it was the salt conducting elec as stated above. So we battened outer walls, insulated in between, plasterboarded over all then got a plasterer in. No problems since.

[@scotty141169]

Any reputable surveyor would check to see if there was a condensation issue first, easily done by scraping away the surface of the plaster, and if the plaster below is dry then generally you have a condensation issue......I've done many speedy moisture tests to both confirm the presence of rising damp and prove the issue is condensation related.. not all surveyors are out to con people....

[@WarmDryHome]

Rising damp not - if wall is really damp - then let it dry by removing impervious materials. A breathable wall can't remain damp by definition.

[@scotty141169]

Ok, lets say a load bearing 4" brick internal wall is damp say up 8" above skirtings, its got original lime mortar plaster. You suggest removing the plaster to let the wall dry out.....fair comment...then what....the original lime mortar plaster was breathable so you are suggesting it cannot be re-plastered. Also, where did the original damp come from if not rising???

[@rodneywilson5814]

Hi Peter so when all houses are built from scratch and have a damp course installed as per building regulations are you saying this doesn't need to happen, i know that bricks are porous and do become damp if left on the ground without a sheet of plastic put down first, it therefore make sense to assume that an old property will degrade and damp can be absorbed through porous building materials, what is your solution to damp walls if i want to redecorate and as we know paint manufactures advice is that the surface to be painted should be dry and free from loose paint or plaster, i look forward to your reply. Rodney

[@stanssoapbox]

+Rodney Wilson Firstly I have to say that my knowledge of buildings is limited to reading Peters websites so I am more than happy to be corrected. But from what they have taught me I believe most of the old houses that Peter is referring to are built on blue bricks that stop the dampness from rising. Apparently experiments have been conducted where bricks have been stood in water and the water travels up the brick as far as the cement layer then evaporates through from the cement before it reaches the next brick up. If there was a problem such as the exterior ground level being higher than the blue bricks then the dampness will only affect the brick touching the ground. It will only travel up further if it is bridged by render. A damp proof course above the blue bricks is not necessary. The answer in this example is to lower the ground level and remove the render and the wall will dry out naturally. When Peter talks about 'rising damp' he means the fictional 1 meter high damp that the salesmen tell you about. When he talks about unnecessary 'damp proofing' he is talking about the holes you see drilled above the blue bricks on many old houses. Since I read Peters website I have started to see this absolutely everywhere. This scam is far more common that you could ever imagine. As for the damp proof courses that are built into new houses I assume this is the blue bricks or the modern equivalent and not the drilled holes and chemical injection that peter warns us about.

[@anudhadutta9708]

Peter is amazing!!!

[@WarmDryHome]

Just keep pointing out basic stuff - we hate to see people taken for a ride...

[@julsjewel2933]

Why is the new plaster coming off?

[@WarmDryHome]

+JUHEL Julien condensation and salts trapped behind impermeable gypsum.

[@JoeDoddmusic]

how do you get rid of the salts and condensation?

[@KeanHunter]

Peter, please could you tell me if there are any honest damp specialists in East London area. I just want to get sorted and pay the price, as opposed to paying for the bull*^#t. Thank you

[@WarmDryHome]

Mark Hunter Have a look at www.heritage-consulting.org :-)

[@JohnPreston888]

So, just you then? (No need to debate this, I have more trust in people who say "don't spend any money", than those who advocate a range of solutions at different price points, with pressure selling and time-limited offers)

[@DenzelLN936]

What brand of carbide testing kit do you use Peter?

[@TheAudiostud]

So Peter! Why didn’t the client contact you first before the contractor

[@NikosKatsikanis]

sheesh that drill is scary

[@MultiSparkyMarky]

Peter I'm thinking of doing up my grannies old house but it has always suffered from damp, their is actually mould growing in it since she died last year. Is their anything I can do if their isn't a dampcourse in it? I thinking the concrete floor has no waterproof. Membrane. It's a brick house with no cavity. The plaster is coming of the walls even upstairs and the bricks feel damp to the touch. It's definitely not condensation as all the Windows are left open. Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated.

[@mustafaelsayed1726]

I have been told I got isolated rising damp. this is a isolated corner where the bathroom was. part of the wall where it's affected is cold. is this rising damp?

[@WarmDryHome]

No - it's condensation. No such thing as rising damp. The key here is bathroom - probably been a fair bit of moisture in the air over time - condensed into wall and held there by gypsum and cement. Ideally open wall up and let it dry out then pplaster in lime. Or leave and dry line over steel stud to let wall breathe behind studded plasterwork.

[@garethbattersby]

Peter Ward I had a guy round and he didnt even touch the walls, he stood 5 feet away and said rising damp while pointing at each wall. despite me explaining that the plaster is dry apart from an exposed blown area. I ask if the chimney being blocked off could affect ventilation of the old house plus the fact that the only other vents are a house brick sized (badly fitted) air brick and a small useless extractor fan in the kitchen. but he wasnt interested, full damp course (despite having one) and rising damp were the only words he used and then slapped me with a 3 grand quote. I wont be calling him back

[@WarmDryHome]

We need to publish all these quotes - together with the real details - the more we publicise what they do - like you, others will learn, and be saved from their fraud. Good to hear you've been 'saved' ! If you want to know a bit more about ventilation, Ray Hudson at RHL is a good chap to know - and sells brilliant humidity controlled systems, about £400 plus fitting - but so much better than the cheap chinese crap like nuaire..

[@garethbattersby]

Peter Ward Thanks for the info. Are those the PIV units? I had looked into those but some stories seemed too good to be true.

[@WarmDryHome]

No - the pvi units are dreadful things and recirculate damp air. The RHL units are specifically designed to sample the air inside and outside the house, and find the best source of dry air at any given time. They are superb bits of kit - we've looked at all the snake oil rubbish on the market, and the RHL units stand out. They have a very good pedigree - the man that makes them was engineer at Lewisham council - when they researched dampness - Lewisham still have almost 100% dry housing stock as a result, and have never damp proofed any of their buildings.

[@MegaBullet50]

right...

[@jonesconrad1]

right