The Drill Press That Does EVERYTHING

[@essentialcraftsman]

Everyone please, no matter your political position, please register to vote and vote on Nov 5! Have a great day!!

[@fuhrermk92]

convert this to a millin machine 🥶

[@fuhrermk92]

convert this to a milling machine 🥶

[@geraldmartin7417]

We won!

[@LiverpoolReject]

​@@geraldmartin7417no we lost. 😢

[@mwoliver]

For oiling those ball oil interfaces, you can modify the tip of your oiler with a fine triangular file to make two small v-shaped openings across the tip of the oiler so that you can push the ball down with the tip of the oiler while still having those two small v-shaped cuts in the tip to allow the oil to flow out when you pump. It works.

[@mkosmo]

Exactly what I'd do. The tip clearly fits, so if you create some path for oil to come out, it'll flow while remaining depressed. Either that or drill some passages in the side -- just something to create an egress that's not the tip.

[@kepotret]

Hi, Iam Arboga user, just quick tips: 7:18 there is built in tool ejector in Arboga drill. just pull the plate near spindle nose out and move the quill updward and there you go the morse taper tool will loosen, so there is no need taper drift and hammer anymore. dont forget to put the plate back to position, sorry for my bad english

[@pistool1]

Allt är bra :-)

[@trollmcclure1884]

He'll be like D'oh!

[@coulombicdistortion1814]

Sir, as a young man who has only ever seen these beastly drill presses in the background of other machine shop videos; thank you for educating me. Thanks for your calm and humble presentation. I'm now another well earned subscriber.

[@glbell4024]

I owned a machine shop that had a lot of those old machines in it. Those ball oilers takes a special oiling tip. It pushes the ball out of the way and oils through the sides of the tip. I don't know where to find them anymore. They are out there in old machine shops. A very good reference book for older machine tools is the machinist hand book. Get to earliest version you can find. Version in 7 or earlier if possible. I miss having my old machine tools. They are better in a lot of way to the newer ones. Keep up the great work. Have a Blessed Day.

[@karcinoma]

version 7?!?!?! LOL thats INCREDIBLY old, but im totally curious now --- what are some of the real cool things you get with a super old edition?

[@glbell4024]

@@karcinoma Those older manuals have more about the machines themselves than the newer manuals. They even go into scraping in machine ways.

[@karcinoma]

@@glbell4024 oh damn. I can see the appeal...

[@kyleecker663]

Man! I’d love to meet you! You’ve been a huge influence of mine! I’ve been a blacksmith since 14 and I’m just about 24 now. Most of career have been a Carpenter doing just about anything from finish carpentry to rough carpentry and some concrete. I love your concrete hammer you’ve made. I hope one day to buy one! As a entrepreneur of becoming a general contractor, your videos have been monumental my growth and your blacksmith and videos. I’ve been so inspirational! I’ve been Alaskan born and raised and have that spirit of paving your own way and have been addicted to the satisfaction of making your own tools. Quote your great self. “ keep up the good work.!” I love your videos!

[@williammrdeza9445]

My dad, who was a jouneyman machinist at US Steel before being drafted into the army in the late 40's, early 50's, would have loved this video. He went on to become a mechanical engineer in the aerospace industry after completing college on the GI bill. He never lost his love of machine shop work though. This radial drill press would have been right up his alley. Thanks for the detailed discussion on this very cool piece of machinery. It definitely puts my little 13" bench top drill press to shame. You are indeed fortunate to have the shop space for such cool tools! Also, I believe the oil fitting you were asking about is called a "ball oiler." A Google search should provide some information about how to properly oil these.

[@ignilc]

when did he die?

[@ferrarijim]

For those who are interested these are the calculations for the proper speeds and feeds for drilling with the machine and tools in the video. I'm a Detroit Tool and Die Maker and have worked in the industry 40 years. A 1.000" twist drill with regular taper shank would have a Morse #3 taper. The tang on the end of the drill does not drive the tool in anyway-that is the job of the precision taper. The standard flute length is 6 3/8" and the overall length is 11 inches. The drills in the video appear to be extra length and would have slower feeds and speeds than the standard as described. It would be expected for this drill to have a maximum TIR (total indicator reading/runout) of .010" when mounted in the machine. If TIR is greater, the taper and/or the machine spindle bearings are worn/damaged or the tool is damaged/poor quality. To calculate the Speeds and Feeds (proper rpm and feed rate) use these formulas: RPM=3.8 x (surface feet per minute/drill diameter). The surface feet per minute is available in the machinist handbook, from the drill mfg, or the workpiece material supplier among other sources. The feed rate is obtained from the same sources and is usually given within a range. Many factors need to be considered-machine condition, machine HP, setup.... To drill a 1.00" hole in mild steel the SFP is 100 surface feet per minute and the feed rate is .020" per revolution (both figures from the Machinist Handbook): (3.8 x (100/1.00)=380 RPM multiplied by .020"=7.6 inches per minute (IPM). So the machine should run at 380 RPM and the feed rate should be 7.6" IPM. To drill a hole 4 inches deep it would take .53 minutes or 32 seconds (4" depth/ 7.6 IPM = .53 minutes). According to the handbook, this operation would require about 1.1 HP. Most likely the machine will not have these exact RPM's and feed rates so you choose the closest available. The speeds and feeds can be significantly improved with ample coolant flow. No pilot drill is necessary but the hole must be spot drilled as the taper drill cannot accurately and safely start a hole, and the radial arm drill is incapable of accurately locating holes without special fixturing or jigs.

[@RichieRich845]

My dad was a Motor Trimmer and always had an old oil can (old to me) next to his industrial sewing machine with some paint (green hammer tone paint) still on it with a very pointy tip, push down on the ball bearing with the tip and press on the bottom of the oil can with your thumb, this was my one and only job as a 5 year old.

[@surfearth1]

As American/Canadian corporations (John Deere included) continue to move production ‘overseas’ we will see less and less folks with these skill sets and know-how. It’s actually very scary. Thanks for keeping some of this alive.

[@scroopynooperz9051]

It's not so much the moving production overseas you have to worry about - we're on the cusp of nimble movement robotics like Boston Dynamic Atlas being integrated with LLM's like OpenAI ChatGPT and when that happens you have the possibility of a tireless, emotionless workforce with 130 IQs pulling 24h shifts every day 😂

[@gslavik]

Moving of production has been going on since the 80s.

[@paulsomero]

yeah "continue" to move production.... as in not already done back in the 1990's

[@ronfox5519]

In addition to that, much of what has been lost is heavy industry. And this is particularly damaging because so much of what was done by that heavy industry was critical and all is exceptionally difficult to re-generate.

[@ronfox5519]

​@@scroopynooperz9051 130 IQ? Are you sure? I don't know enough to challenge that statement, but it sounds like a big reach. At any rate, it's the nature of a fixed environment like a factory that you don't need anything from Boston Dynamics. All the regular stuff that's already being used will work just fine.

[@phalanyx3478]

You can do a lot more with this drill. Get a Morse Taper - ER32 adapter so you can use ER32 collets to hold reduced shank drills, counterbores, reamers, etc. These things are NOT supposed to be held in a drill chuck as they will always slip and damage the tool shank and chuck jaws. If it has more than 2 cutting edges or the cutting edges make a larger hole than the shank diameter you need a collet as a simple 3 jaw drill chuck will slip. You can also get a Morse Taper - Annular Cutter arbor which enables you to use annular cutters. Some arbors have a slip ring so you can run coolant through the morse taper adapter into the annular cutter while its spinning. Annular cutters are magic that didn't exist when this machine was made, this machine could easily run a 5" annular cutter through steel without a pilot hole. Those cutters are pricey to resharpen though. You don't have to tap the tapers together either. Wipe them off regularly so they are clean and just slam them together. They are self locking under pressure and you will snap those drills clean in half before the tapers slip. Just make sure they are clean, its a nightmare if you damage the female spindle taper. If the female taper is damaged you can use blue dye to check for high spots in the spindle with a good male taper and grind them down with a die grinder or diamond needle file and restore your spindle taper.

[@ronkruchten5867]

Good advice. Another little trick to use on slightly dinged-up Morse taper fits is to slip a single-thickness cone of typing paper between the male and female tapers before slapping them together during setup, for a reliable grip to run them without slipping under heavy torque loads.

[@giovannicintolo89]

I would buy a cheap morse taper tool and go at it with lapping compound before a file. But you're absolutely right about the capacity of the machine. In their production days, all the tooling would have been morse taper shanked. An ER collet will give you a lot of versatility as no 3 jaw was ever made to transfer the torque of a large tool, or hold the runout of a tapered spindle. The taper holds the runout, the tang the torque. Tooling for these machines was never cheap, but was more readily available in days past. Lifelong machinist... I have tons of mt2 drills and reamers I saved from the scrap bin of obsolete machines. Fit the (badly beaten) tailstock of my 1930's Sheldon lathe

[@fsj197811]

That's a nice piece of old iron. Thanks for sharing.

[@pistool1]

1:06 This is manufactured in Arboga, Sweden. Probably used in industry, such as, Volvo, ABB, Husqvarna, Falkvarv, Åkerman or SSAB :-) Thanks for the new video and content!

[@anthonyvancampen6729]

I would suggest buying a copy of The Engineer's Black Book. It is chock full of information about the most common machine shop tasks. Especially things like picking the proper RPM and feed speeds for tooling.

[@anthonyvancampen6729]

Unless you are working in / running a full-service machine shop, Machinery's Handbook is probably overkill.

[@possumwerx]

It may be overkill for the author of this video but the Machinery Handbook is incredibly invaluable! I would buy one even 40 years old because they are so useful. Yes, finding a used one may be difficult but they are well worth the money. If one cannot procure a used copy? Then bite the bullet and buy a new one. eBay may be your best friend when it comes to scoring a used copy.

[@aksourdough4890]

I operated a monstrous radial drill press in my younger days to drill oil holes and tap 4" diam bearing cap holes on 18ft long steel crankshafts for 5000hp diesel engines. Tapping those holes put a few gray hairs on my head. Loved that radial drill.

[@ronfox5519]

Nice. Was this big enough to be a rider?

[@aksourdough4890]

@@ronfox5519 Yep!

[@aksourdough4890]

BTW was getting $7.25/hr union wage working on a $250k crankshaft. In 1979.

[@ronfox5519]

@@aksourdough4890 250k? Shure wouldn't want to make a mistake on o e of those. Today's money is like 6 times that. Was the machine made by Ingersoll?

[@aksourdough4890]

@@ronfox5519 Don't recall. Been a while. When I'd go to tool crib for my taps, some of them had chipped threads: "Do the best you can."

[@countrycraftsman5110]

Variable frequency drives have become cost-effective for becoming single phase to three phase converters. Not only do you get three phases, but now speed control.

[@alantrimble2881]

Rotary phase converters and VFDs each have their place. Keith Rucker has a great video that outlines the advantages and disadvantages of each.

[@mattym8]

VFDs are great but those that generate a third phase top out around 5hp so rotary converters are still necessary.

[@coulombicdistortion1814]

To add onto the other disadvantages already listed. Slapping a VFD onto a motor that is not inverter-duty rated (which for a tool of this vintage is almost certainly not the case) can cause damage to the motor.

[@TrevorDennis100]

Kurtis, on Cutting Edge Engineering Australia used a VFD as a speed controller in a recent video. He obviously has three phase in the shop. kzbin.info/www/bejne/joXShGxoe5uHp7ssi=gT9BV37RpD7XQtBY&t=92

[@bobainsworth5057]

Love to watch big tools like this do their job. I could watch a good lathe and a good operator all day.

[@paulacreman4413]

That's a wonderful machine, takes me back to my apprenticeship in the toolroom at FoMoCo in Dagenham England. Thousands of holes in all kinds of tooling, a really versatile machine. Paul

[@TheCowboylogic]

Great video! I have an old Cincinnati milling machine and an old lathe. The lathe actually came out of a WW II submarine.

[@Siskiyous6]

My Sheldon lathe is navy contract too.

[@jasonmershon3941]

Our lathe at work has those oil fittings. It came with a little plastic bottle with a steel spout that pushes the ball in while injecting some lube.

[@brvif8363]

I've been enjoying your presentation of the 'culture of tools' and the ' can do mindset'. Thanks- bunches. B.V.

[@coreylichty2455]

The tool you used to remove the drill from the reducer sleeve is called a drift. Also if the tapers are clean and free of burs, you can line the tang up and, with a little force, slip the drill into the spindle, and it will stay without the use of the lead hammer

[@nickrandol9133]

Could you get Kelly to find me a nice little radial arm drill press? This is a sweet machine.

[@MrFoo948]

The tapered pieces of steel is called a drift, I enjoy you channel.

[@GreatDogs]

Yes drift .... Drift pin... 😊

[@phitsf5475]

Radial drills are such a blessing to use when you want something accurate and/or the workpiece is too heavy to be moving around more than once.

[@brintos9141]

"That's both handy, and dangerous" had me!

[@paulhunt598]

Arboga made some wonderful drill presses. I have only used their geared head standard drill presses, but it looks like their radial machine is top-notch as well. The word is turret not turrent, but it isn't a turret, it is a head on an arm (radial arm). A turret is multiple faced and indexes to present multiple preset tools. Commen examples are Burgmaster turret drill presses, manual and CNC lathes with the turret feature. A turret stores the preset tools, and also is the locating/machining point. The turret is mounted on one or more movable axis. A turret can be mounted on a lathe tailstock giving one axis travel, a cross slide giving typically two axis travel, or get fancier with a compound or even third axis. The Burgmaster drill press application uses only one axis travel. A spindle turns the tool or the work. A spindle often is mounted in a quill giving Z axis travel. A drill press is this design. A lathe tailstock design is another example. Z axis is travel parallel to the spindle centerline. X axis is travel perpendicular to the Z axis, and Y axis is perpendicular to Z and X axis. X axis is the longer axis travel and Y axis is the shorter travel axis. W axis is parallel to Z axis and is the secondary axis to Z. A Bridgeport is a knee mill. The quill is Z axis, and the knee is W. Your radial drill has a W axis. It raises and lowers the arm. The head travels on the arm, X axis, but the arm swings in an arc. This is not a true Y axis. I have never heard this axis called by a letter, I refer to it as the swing. There are other radial drill designs. There are light duty home hobby shop machines and a vintage industrial design made by Johansson. There are likely others as well. In the machining world, your Arboga is on the smaller end of the size spectrum, but still a wonderful size. Our shop purchased a unit smaller than yours new around 2012. I forget the brand, but it was sourced from the Orient, probably Taiwan. It was a high-quality machine. I was envious, because it would have fit in my basement hobby shop. Fitting your machine with the shaper table is a nice upgrade. These machines are normally fitted with a T slotted fixture table that allows work clamping to the top and side(s). The machine is capable of Z axis machiningish milling functions as you described. But you lack feed control and position control that you would have in a true mill. You also lack spindle speeds and tool holding capacity. It is a drill press, so it is designed to hold drills and operate at drilling speeds. Mills should be held in a collet or tool holder. If you do your start at an angle trick, use a full centering cut endmill. Many mills do not cut to the center. I suggest you operate the mill at max available RPM for the work that you described. Go gentle on the feed rate. A 4 flute cutter will probably work better than 2 flute for the work that you described. An oiler is made for the oil fittings you described. They have a proper name, but the tip diameter is small enough to depress the ball check valve. I now have a 4600 sf hobby shop building with 16' 4" ceiling. I can now house an industrial radial drill. I want one! They are pretty much antiquated technology, but are wonderful machine tools. Arboga made some of the Wilton branded drill presses. Your machine is intended for large workpiece or large drill operations. It is overkill for small hole sizes in small parts. Anyone that owns your machine likely has an armada of smaller machines for that work. Your machine with instant reverse is a good candidate for power tapping, provided that your chuck can adequately grip and hold the tap.

[@AgentWest]

Great find! Always wanted a radial arm drill press for my shop despite not really having a use for it. For oil, those little balls are only there to keep dirt out, they don't provide back pressure, so oil from your particular oil can flows in perfectly well. Under those balled-off caps is a small cavity with some felt or even just a piece of rope that acts as a wick, holding oil and slowly releasing it. During regular maintenance you really only need just a couple drops of oil to top everything up, so do not worry, you are lubricating the things just right!

[@clone4211]

What I did in regards to the ball tip oilers is I replaced the large bulky hose and fitting on a standard oil can with 1/8” diameter copper tube that is able to fit down fully inside of the ball boiler and the oil can generates sufficient pressure to force oil past the ball.

[@Pro2eus]

for oiling the ball detent oilers. I have had good luck with an oil can with a fine tip (fine enough to press the ball down) then cut a slit across (with a file , small hacksaw or fine slitting wheel) this allows the ball to be depressed and oil to flow around

[@mcd5082]

This video was awesome Scott! So much history, technical instruction, and advice. Thanks for teaching a younger generation like myself!

[@firemanj35]

Great stuff, Scott. Love seeing you in the shop. Awesome drill.

[@wvrockcrusher]

Nice radial drill! There is a special tip for oil cans to be used on ball-type oilers, or you can modify one to use. The Morse taper socket in the spindle should be kept absolutely clean and oil-free every time you make a tool change. Those taper tools are driven by the taper fit, not the tang, which is why the need for keeping everything clean is paramount. Even a slight ding will not let the taper make full contact, resulting in slippage or tools not staying in the socket. If all is well, you should be able to just push the tool into the socket and be tight, no need to hammer them in. If you do get a burr, there are morse taper lapping tools or even reamers for something really bad. Use them wisely because you can ruin a spindle if misused, which would be a bad day. I always run my finger around the inside of the socket before installing a new tool because you can feel any dirt or burrs. The Jacobs chuck you have is the Super Chuck ball bearing model. Those are very smooth and very expensive. Jacobs no longer produces those in America to the best of my knowledge. I have many of them from small 1/4" up to the 1" 20N model. I use them in all my machine tools, and I love them to death.

[@AugustKling]

Good old times! Regards from Sweden

[@bugermcking4968]

bring the times back.

[@KenHill]

Scott, the coolness factor is on overload here!

[@SchondorfEnt]

Great video Scott!!

[@bcbloc02]

I have a 7ft Carlton Radial Arm drill. You likely saw it when it fell from the bridge crane and broke. In way I welded it back together straightened the shaft and it has been working great ever since. I use it a fair bit. I will say probably the best thing you can do for drill bit life is run flood coolant. It makes the drill edges last probably 4 times as long or more depending on what you are drilling.

[@jonrowsam6793]

Scott, I have been lubricating my old machine tools with AW68 hydraulic for many years with good results Chainsaw bar oil works well for the sliding surface and the round column The wrong oil is better than no oil. Keep up the good work

[@bugermcking4968]

A fairly light oil with zinc is always a good option for almost any machine tool.

[@ronfox5519]

Those columns will take way oil. Not that 68 aw would be the end of the world

[@bradiacm7828]

I ran a Carlton Radial Arm Drill years ago in the tool room of a stamping house. The way we located our holes on the die work was to accurately lay out the work with Dykum (layout paint) rulers and scribes, or on surface plates with height gages. Then Center punched, and ran an 1/8 drill bit in reverse to pick up the punch mark with the column and carriage locks released. If the drill deflected slightly it was almost on the punch mark and could be bumped into location. Once it could touch the conical upset material without deflection the locks were engaged, checked one more time, the rotation switched to forward and we drilled it 1/8” deep. We then switched to the desired drill size (or a 1/2” pilot drill if for a larger hole), and drilled to depth. We used coolant in squeeze bottles for drilling steel to keep the drill tip from getting too hot and loosing temper. If the hole required using a pilot drill first before a second (and sometimes third) drill, then the pilot hole was drilled just shy of breaking through. This kept coolant in the hole to do its job. The final drill was the one to break through. If you are going to tap or ream a blind hole, put a rag around your airgun nozzle as you insert it into the hole and squeeze the trigger. Don’t ask me how I know that. Thank you for introducing us to your old friend. It’s obvious you appreciate and take good care of her.

[@tonyn3123]

Beautiful machine. Just my opinion, but on my larger wood tools, I have mounted a cheap 120v 8" LED strip (typical over sink light) that I picked up from a big-box store. I mounted the small strip on a piece of wood and used epoxy to attach three small rare-earth magnets on the back of the wood. I route the cord to allow movement to wherever I would typically use or need a light. This works much better for my older eyes than any halogen or incandescent light on any of my machines. It's also movable to any metal surface where I might need it. For me, I much prefer my little strip LEDs over any of my internal machine lights. Thanks.

[@RealRonSwanson]

Awesome machine tool!

[@northernhumidor5615]

Beautiful machine.

[@chuckfischer7202]

Cutting oil, as in pipe threading, is good for drilling. Keep some right on the machine in a small tin can, apply with an acid brush. Motor oil is not a good choice, it has lots of additives specific to the insides of an engine. Best for the sliding parts would be way oil. Precision sliding surfaces on machine tools are called ways. The tool for knocking MT bits out is called a drift. There is a different drift for each of the MT sizes. The tang on the end of the taper is just a tang. Stamped somewhere on the chuck will be JT and a number. That's Jacobs Taper so & so. The arbor and the chuck are two separate parts. There are sets of little wedges that will separate the chuck from the arbor. When ordering a chuck, you'll need to order the appropriate arbor. ie. JT3 / MT4 or JT3 / R8. Tapers are used dry. It's good practice to run a hand down the length of the taper checking for burs or chips clinging to it. Bad to force some chunk of iron into the tapered socket. Those adapters, one MT size to another, are called sleeves. Brown & Sharpe has their own taper, another is called Jarno, there are others. Two sources, MSC and McMaster Carr.

[@EdGarner-q9k]

To learn about tapers (Morse, Jacobs, etc.) and many other things perhaps pick up a used Machinery's handbook. Newest edition not required but large print version might be for older eyes.

[@GeorgeThompson-oo1rm]

I would love to have a machine like this one. I think I would view it as a good friend, as I think you probably do. take care of it and good luck. I believe that you enjoy working with this very precise and well built machine. I enjoyed watching your video because of the joy you get from this machine.

[@Mechanixscott]

That is a drilling machine. I believe it's time to learn the exact type of bits for specific applications. I agree with the comment of grabbing the Chuck on that monster. It's a beauty.

[@carrionpinata7163]

Beautiful and capable tool! I learn something new everyday!!

[@paulehlers2225]

I've drilled a bunch of holes on a large radial drill in the locomotive repair shop I spent most of my career in, they're simply an awesome machine. I've also rebuilt the transmission on a buddy's Arboga mill which uses the same basic head as your radial drill. The thing that surprised me when I got into it was the gears are made of micarta rather than steel and the ones on that mill showed zero wear on the teeth, maybe those Swede's know what they're doing!!

[@ducatista1098s]

Hey, great video. Im glad youve found the world of another trade and its tools to use for your own ambitions. One thing about the machine to be careful about: because it has a MT4, you can implement a lot of machine tools, but the machine doesnt have a drawbar, which prevents some rather nasty things from happening that occur in operations that are not drilling. As long as the force of the tool is downwards (drilling), youre good.

[@MrFoo948]

The taper on the drill is your drive, the tang on the drill is for alignment in the slot of the spindle so you can knock the drill out..

[@jamesmisener3006]

I'm no machinist (carpenter) but I find squirting the cutting oil on the bit rather than the cutting surface works well and needs less oil especially at lower speeds. If you can run cooling liquid automatically do it. The time and money saved pays for it and more. It's recycled unlike oil that is 100% wasted after one use. Nice press mate. Cheers 🇨🇦

[@bugermcking4968]

You should weld a ratchet on the end of that vice as a handle. Then whenever your tightening it, the wrench will drop away, also so you won't have to bend over or move to the front to crank the vice.

[@HexenzirkelZuluhed]

This is one nice piece of equipment.

[@AlanTheBeast100]

Call "This Old Tony" and ask him to road trip out to you to tune it up. (He might add features that will scare you too ...) Or Curtis from Cutting Edge - but not sure he'd travel that far ...

[@ronfox5519]

And risk showing his face? No way. Tony would never allow it.

[@michael-michaelmotorcycle]

@@ronfox5519 TOT has showed his face a few times before. aVe on the other hand has not.

[@ronfox5519]

@michael-michaelmotorcycle Wow. I missed ToT showing his face. Does he look like his thumbnail? As for aVe, I'm pretty sure he's shown his face a couple times. I remember one vid where he shotgunned a wasp nest that showed him and one where he doing a tour of an old engine house and another where he was walking the streets( I think in Europe?). Ave has got to about be a neighbor to buckin billy Ray. What a show those two could make out of 10 beers.

[@geraldmartin7417]

"That's both handy; and dangerous" Why we love Scott

[@BadDadio]

Nice drill press. I’d love to have one in my shop

[@gregorymacneil2836]

The tool with the red handle for removing Morse Taper tooling is called a “Semi Automatic Morse Taper Drift Key”. I purchased mine a few decades back when they were only a German made tool. They were around $120 at that time from DoAll. I see there are $39 versions on Amazon these days from Asia.

[@actionman862]

Thanks, I had one years ago but it walked out of my toolbox. I've been searching ever since. Just ordered one from Amazon.

[@19672701]

I have Goldenrod oilers with ball oil tip,cheap on Amazon, I wipe the paint down with kerosene on my machines,a little way oil on the machine surfaces. wonderfully machine you found.

[@treepop1550]

Ive owned about 10 different drill presses over the years and if i was younger i would be searching for one of these !!

[@tylerjordan2595]

I would love a radial drill press. In reality, I would probably fight an angry bull for half the tools you show on the channel, thanks for inspiring/teaching younger guys like me about this old iron. Though I can't say much, but I do have a nice 'older than me' drill press. As a general rule I always top off my oil can before I start the drill. I keep oil in a sealed drink dispenser from an old restaurant, I modified it with a sight glass that tells me when to refill my cutting oil. It's convenient and keeps me from burning bits whether with a handheld drill or the drill press.

[@rotironwerks]

I worked at Palm Iron and Bridge Works in Sacramento in '71-'72 and one of my jobs was drilling 2" holes in 2" plate all day long. Don't recall the name of that drill press but it made yours look like a toy. Pilot hole helps and sharp drill bit. Waste cuttings should curl in continuous spiral or she is dull. We sharpened by hand on a huge stone grinder, must have been 2 foot diameter and 4 inch wide. Great find .

[@EvLSpectre]

Thats a good looking drill you got Scott. I used to run a 60" Cincinnati Bickford radial a few years ago. Big ol girl, dumped a quart of SAE 30 in her probably once a month. Still was a smooth as could be. Mine had power feed as well. RPM could be set for when drive lever was all the way engaged, it you could set it high and only partially engage the lever for slower speeds. That oil fitting I bet you need a pin type coupler or needle nozzle. It looks like s flatter zerk almost

[@RinoaL]

I've never heard of a radial drill before!

[@bugermcking4968]

They have been mostly replaced with large 3 axis cnc mills in modern machine shops. Which are far more generally useful and because of that require less setup labor.

[@chrimony]

Just do a search for the machine name and type on the plate. You can find instructions online. "Change oil after the first 100 working hours, then every 500 hours. The oil is drained at the under side of the casting. The bearings in the gear box and the spindle quill are packed at the factory with good quality ball bearing grease. This lubrication is sufficient for several years of operation. A few drops of oil should be dripped into the oil cups on the case once a week." There's another paragraph after that talking about lubrication. Also, apparently there's an 830 and 1830 model. The instructions I found online have diagrams for both.

[@artstudio9673]

I know lathe and milling machine basics. If it makes you feel better, I now know how you change a but with a Morse taper tool bit thanks to you, compared to me you are a master operator of a radial drill press. I am a retired electrical engineer and I am in awe of your knowledge on so many things! Question, how do you estimate or bid a job like that when you didn't even have the radial drill yet, knowing how labor intensive it was going to be ( I know machine shops sometimes do a flat rate like cost for each hole etc.) You are an amazing You Tuber and Man!

[@procraft]

We had one of these at a workplace that didn't function, so I'm glad to see one that does! We did have a fire in a hole of the bottom plate, we were far from the machine so a tip would be to cover that hole. It was one of those "how the hell did that happen?"

[@williamtilton8138]

That was very interesting. I'm glad you showed, I see these big machines but I don't know nothing about But it is interesting to me Thanks for showing it

[@clayz1]

I just retired from a company in Seattle. They have one that is small like yours, and another twice that size in their gear shop. I like yours though. Just remember to clamp the work down while drilling. Serious torque is an understatement. That is true for any machine tool of course, even ordinary drill presses.

[@bosnabob]

Essential for a long and healthy tool life to get into the habit of wiping clean your morse taper shanks before assembling/inserting them. If you let any dirt/swarf get in there then over time it will damage the taper in your quill and eventually will write the machine off as it won't retain tooling.

[@bngr_bngr]

I took a construction class in the 8th grade. All the wonderful machines that class had.

[@kentonbolte931]

Would you talk about when it's time to replace (well used) electrical tools. Reciprocal saws, Circular saws, Drills of various sizes, or anything else that comes to your mind.

[@williamherring5441]

Beautiful machine! I’ll make do with a mag drill until space, money and availability align for such a cool tool.

[@sampsonsunny6298]

Hi from Sydney Australia

[@Tome4kkkk]

What a gem!

[@roberrjestrella2697]

Love your channel, thanks!!!

[@JimZ-i9e]

When you drill the pilot hole it should be the width of the tip of the drill point or web. This lets the full length of the cutting lips to stay centered and cut with all of the edge not just the outer edge.

[@claudew2899]

Correct. I notice the drill bit "walked" a little before all the cutting lip was engaged. This is evidence of too big a pilot hole. That size bit a #5 center drill and no pilot hole with about .010" of feed would work great. Gotta be enough feed for the tool to cut. Like my instructor used to say "if it ain't cutting its wearing" Same with woodworking tools.

[@link3775]

You can use a center drill and a small endmill to get your holes on and angle started perfect

[@kennethnevel3263]

Lean the oil can tip to the side so the ball is not covering the hole in the tip or file a notch in the end of the tip so the ball can not block the hole in the tip . Sum oil always leaks at those kinds of oilers , feed the oil slowly so more goes in than leaks outside the oilers .

[@Siskiyous6]

That is a wonderful machine. Tapered tooling is awesome, though when lathe has both a 2 in the head, and a three in the tail, it is a pita. Those adapters are just called adapters.

[@avr2766]

Could you make a video about safety helmets ?

[@bhami]

Start-up current: just this evening I learned something fascinating. We usually think of start-up current as a concept that applies mainly to giant electric motors. But just now I discovered that my Fenix E01 single-AAA-cell LED flashlight, which I had temporarily misplaced, was still glowing after something like 8 hours on (!). I immediately turned it off and then tried to turn it back on, but it would not light! Of course it worked fine as soon as I changed out that poor AAA battery.

[@pukinpaja1974]

That looks Great Drillpress ! 🎅🏻👍🏻🇫🇮

[@jaredking3361]

👍👍👍so cool thank you for sharing!!

[@tfp777]

To oil those ball type fittings I have used an Alemite Z737 type fitting, it will oil much better but still not perfect.

[@NoyAtkinson]

You are using the Mose Taper key upside down. The rounded edge should be on top to match the rounded slot in the quill. The square edge matches the tang on the drill bit

[@jonmccormick6805]

Please use cutting oil for cutting, especially steel, but not aluminum. WD 40 is good for aluminum but not steel. Lubricating oils tend to burn up tooling. Also, don't tap the bits into the socket. Line it up, lower it about an inch and jam it in using it's own weight. Someone mentioned chainsaw bar oil as a lubricant. I hadn't thought of that, but it might be a little thicker than good lube, or as machinists call it, 'way' oil.

[@TrevorDennis100]

I like RTD cutting oil rather than soluble oil for drilling - I suppose its similar to Tap Magic. I use soluble oil in the lathe, but more for cooling. The sad thing is that they all seep into your skin and it takes forever for your hands to stop smelling of it.

[@jay62nz]

@@TrevorDennis100 Thirty years ago, I used to work for a toolmaker. On all his machines, lathe, radial arm drill, milling machine and surface grinder etc, he used water soluble cutting oil that was recirculated through each machine. Always worked wonders. I think it was because that type of oil allows for the cutting edges to bite into the work whereas lubricating oil is made to allow surfaces to slide over themselves. None of his machines ever rusted either.

[@procraft]

I've heard that "Rucol" paste is the only thing you want to use. I'm in Sweden.

[@gearmob3555]

I once operated a 10' radial drill made by Cincinnati Milicron. It had a 12' by 24' slotted deck, and had a 4" drilling capacity. It was a beast. but it ran smooth as silk. The oil cups do use a special tip that depresses the ball. Try a medium needle tip on a rigid oiler tube. there's too much spring pressure for a flex tube to work well. Try scoring tiny slots in the ID of the needle tip to improve oil flow. Typical three phase breaker panels provide a neutral for circuit requiring a single phase, such as lighting circuits. This neutral connects to a center tap in that transformer providing power. Your rotary converter does not provide the neutral. Wire your light as you would any household circuit. You can connect to the original light circuit in the drills control panel, but be absolutely certain that the hot and neutral leads for the light are electrically isolated from all other circuits. run a dedicated 120 volt circuit from your shop's breaker panel.

[@stephenriddle1292]

That is a nice machine there sir!

[@bogdanshevchenko]

God id love to see a restoration video of this beast

[@garychaiken808]

Great job. Thank you 😊

[@chrisosowski8531]

Get some vactra #2 way oil for the sliding surfaces. That thing is the perfect size!

[@throughmylens5127]

My mother's cousin had a complete machine shop in his back yard including a 5x12 foot pattern torch way before plasma cnc tables a big radial drill press I saw a 2 inch drill bit in, now I wish I would have hung out more there now. If you find a Bateman Iron Worker Machine built in the 60s to early 70s he touched most of the parts machine

[@wasda2]

nice swedish Arboga drill you got :)

[@schwinn434]

Another interesting video; Thank Essential Craftsman!

[@michaelpayne8102]

Nice piece of machinery, while I have a large 3 phase converter (picked up over 20 years ago) a great new option is the solid state variable frequency converters or convert things over to a variable speed DC motor (more costly).

[@martincart2775]

Tap Magic and Anchor Lube are name brand fluids both are great for drilling and/or cutting threads.

[@kathleenfoster9887]

get yourself a nice little small lathe like a Taig. You can make a needle fitting to put on your oil pump and do so much more besides learning another dynamite skill. Thanks for sharing your radial drill and PS my wife’s never been able to park her car in the garage because she has also encouraged me to buy tools and bought me some honey’s as well.

[@robp5575]

For the ball oil ports use this oil can Reilang oil can. You need an oil can that can deliver pressure to get the oil around the ball. Or as someone else has mentioned you can take a regular oil can and cut a slit in the oil tip so that when you depress the ball the oil can still come out of the tip and around the ball

[@kanivalnoone6047]

For those brass oilers I make a brass coupler in the lathe with just the right size of the oiler hole but with a short nose the problem is that most oilers have a ver I long conical tip so if you push the balls it blocks the oil but if you don't push enough it leak the oil, now with the coupler if you push it just center the tip and thr oil pressure it's the one that push the ball

[@badlandskid]

Interesting. I never noticed that in any of your shop videos before.