The easy way to Remove Rusted engine studs

[@453421abcdefg12345]

I think you did very well getting that many studs out, I find that if a stud starts to torque, and is not going to come out, a simple drilling fixture that is a tight fit over the stud,( like a bush), and that has a pilot hole drilled through dead centre on your lathe, will allow you to drill an accurately aligned hole right through the stud, the vibration and heat from the drilling usually frees up the thread, but if not another fixture with the tapping size hole in it will take out the core of the stud, you can normally pick out the remaining pieces with a sharpened pick, then tap it, with the broken stud level with the surface, you can normally pick up on the thread with a drilling bush and get centre, easyouts very rarely work on these very rusted studs broken off, if it is tight enough to shear with the full stud shank intact, you rarely turn it with an easyout, more than likely the easyout will break, then you really are in trouble. Good luck !

[@jet-z2r]

Hi there, another great video, thank you. When I removed all my head studs, I was able extract them all. Unfortunately 4 of the threads were severely rusted out. I drilled & helicoiled the threads, they work fine. When I reassembled the engine, I used a coolant sealing compound on all the stud threads to stop coolant creeping up the threads. I had the head surface machined because the surface was quite pitted from old age. The head then has a better seal with the head gasket. Thank you, Cheers James.

[@Greendot319]

Thanks James. Did you free hand drill the holes out or did you put it under a pillar drill. I'm concerned about drilling the holes cockeyed and wrecking the whole thing!

[@jet-z2r]

Greendot 319 mate I've had a lot of experience drilling. I used a hand drill. If your not confident & worried damaging the block, I recommend 100% use a drill press. That way your hole is dead straight.

[@Greendot319]

Thanks James, I think I should be able to drill it then, helicoil it is!!

[@jet-z2r]

Greendot 319 take your time don't rush. Check out some good video's on KZbin first on helicoil installation. You can purchase a complete install kit. Comes with drill, tap & coils. You will be fine. Let me know how you go. Cheers mate.

[@Greendot319]

Thanks will do, that will be another video!

[@rickster4455]

Heat then hit with candle wax. Its amazing!

[@JA-ux7dd]

Long way around a shot bush, set that block in the sunshine then put an ice cube on the stud, then turn them out. BTW in many cases water is a great penetrator also.

[@MrRotaryrockets]

a little trick for you when you loosen the bolts or studs screw them back in the hole a bit then turn them out..you may have to do it several times but it helps to free the bolts try it you will see what I mean..

[@jimlong527]

Good information and show & tell thanks

[@YTMarnixR]

I’m restoring a ‘37 austin staff car, but the head is rusted to it’s studs, I am considering drilling them out (the entire stud). Any tips because I’d really prefer not to drill out 28 studs.... love your videos!

[@Greendot319]

Spark erosion? Its an idea, never used it, probably quite costly!

[@allannorman2359]

Hi Matt fabulous videos..

[@Greendot319]

Thanks Alan, much appreciated ;)

[@sinkinpat]

So I’m working on my 45 MB engine. Someone put the long grounding stud in the front. Why do they always do this. It came out great. I do the same on the ground stud location and the damn stud Broke flush at the block. Now I get to learn to remove a sheared stud out of a block.

[@brianburt2244]

I've put two nuts on stud and locked against each other, and removed with deep socket.

[@Greendot319]

Yep thats a good method too!

[@roblenzz7966]

Where is your jeep shirt from? I couldn't quite make it out

[@Greendot319]

Hi Rob, it's from jeep sud-est in France. They're a pretty good parts supplier in Europe, good on line shop which UK dealers have neglected!

[@roblenzz7966]

@@Greendot319 Thanks, I'll have to see if they'd ship a shirt to me. Have you seen the battery project I've been working on?

[@Greendot319]

I haven't Rob, is this on the Gee?

[@roblenzz7966]

@@Greendot319 yes, its under the general discussion topic. Working on a Willard cover

[@Greendot319]

Hi Rob, Just seen it, that's Damn good. How exactly did you do all the raised lettering? 3D printing?

[@stijn501]

btw if a thread is gone get a helicoil works like a charm

[@Greendot319]

I think that's what we're going to have to go for here!

[@stijn501]

keep up the vids ;)

[@conceptalfa]

👍 👍 👍

[@MrJeep75]

PB blaster works better

[@stijn501]

wd40 all the way

[@g.a.c.4139]

"WD-40" (Water Displacing formula #40) was developed many decades ago to displace water. There are now many penetrating oil brands out there, and some even help to dissolve microscopic rust particles. They were designed to, umm, remove rusted parts. You are a victim of a decades-long marketing scam. The first time you said "WD-40", I left. Please, professional mechanics only.