The Easy Way to Replace Your MGB's Ignition Switch

[@ThePerformanceVideo]

Another worthwhile everyday fix. Well done Ross. So true about cleaning the contacts as well.

[@Endfloat]

Thank you!

[@adriantrundle3414]

just the advice I needed as just replaced a steering lock only couldn't get the cowling back on - your advice was invaluable!

[@Endfloat]

You weren't swearing in the right places!

[@urbingwatched9752]

Greetings from across the pond, Mr endfloat! I have a 79 LE am getting ready to restore. I have enjoyed your videos and sense if we were on the same boulder sharing a meal would at the top of my list!

[@Endfloat]

Oh an LE is a beautiful car! I particularly like the LE wheels.

[@carstenmoore5760]

Hi Ross, Nice work. I fitted a new switch to my MG some years ago and it had the same spare purple wire. After a bit of investigation, turns out it is linked to a microswitch in the barrel which earths out if the ignition key is inserted. Its fed via a buzzer which sounds if the keys are left in, ignition off and drivers door open. This was only used for North American markets as far as I'm aware. Pointless info I know... but in case you were wondering.

[@Endfloat]

Thanks very much for the info!

[@tigermedz]

Thank you for the video! I am working on a 79 mg mgb and am going to be putting in a new ignition switch. This was grand.

[@Endfloat]

Glad I could help!

[@MGB-learning]

Great video! The extra wire (Purple) is for the Key in the ignition reminder once your ignition is turned off on USA models. So that you don't leave the key in your car. It looks like you don't have a second door jam switch one one for the door light.

[@Endfloat]

Ah thanks very much. 👍

[@RaggedyAtom]

The purple wire in question (correct me if I'm wrong) is used for the flash-to-pass switch, which means your car possibly didn't have this feature. Basically you pull the light/horn stalk back for a brief moment and it activates the high beams for a moment, hence the term, and springs back when you release it. The earlier cars had a similar system with a brown input (live) wire and a blue/white (output). Kind of a neat feature since it was available when the car was first introduced 1962. The other thing the purple wire could be is the horn button, as that would usually be on the steering column as well.

[@Endfloat]

My car does have the flash to pass function. I don't think that's what it's for. Someone told me but I can't remember.

[@anthonybrowne4022]

Great job Ross good to see it went well,looked like it was cold🥶 when you was doing the job but as we all know when your working on your classic cars but it’s going to pay off in the end 👍🏻

[@Endfloat]

It was a bit nippy alright. The heat is in the work though! I have a heater but it's too noisy to use when I'm filming.

[@scottishcarenthusiastsandtrain]

Great little tinkering video as always Mate.

[@Dave_Stafford]

Oh great.. Chisel Rash. Yet another thing to avoid in life that I never even knew had its own name. Nice fix Ross.

[@Endfloat]

You can get an ointment for it, don't worry.

[@donthuis]

One can replace the breakaway bolts by regular bolts (M8 in my recollection). Car thiefs will never suspect nor be deterred by the OEM solution, well hidden under the cowl. Lucky you with the connectorised setup of the later B, early cars like mine have individual bullits, so connections to the new switch have to be well planned ahead.

[@Endfloat]

I actually did this in a camper van I had years ago. The new ignition switch came with the new bolts though in this instance.

[@BrianGibbons1966JulesRimet]

Hi Ross, my first comment reads like a criticism, it isn’t it was complementing you on testing it before breaking bolts. A great watch once again

[@Endfloat]

No offence taken, don't worry! You don't put yourself out there like I do without people sharing their opinions, and I really don't mind, so long as they're not arseholes, and you certainly weren't!

[@SPH56]

Always a pleasure to watch your videos, though I must say you scared me just a bit when you were wanting to pull the column. I had just replaced the ignition switch in a '74 B, for the first time, that the owners had since new. Interesting enough the shear bolts were not torqued off from factory. When installing the new switch I opted to torque the new ones in the same fashion except with a tad bit of red lock tight - 50 years down the road, should it need replacing and fingers crossed, the job will be that much easier.

[@Endfloat]

The column is very easy to drop. It's really just the 3 bolts that need undoing. Not sure how you'd do the job without taking them out to be honest. I reckon you should be safe enough though about having to do it again soon!

[@SPH56]

I was referring to when you were actually contemplating removing the column itself. Yes, the three bolts need to be removed. As always - nice job!

[@nazairetetreault2664]

You only need to drop the 3 bolts and column hangs down. Take die grinder with cutting wheel, and cut a slot on sheer bolts and take large screw driver and remove sheer bolts. You do not need to remove steer column

[@AdventureJason]

Thanks for a great, timely video, Ross. One thing you mentioned at the very end (and perhaps @sph56 also has a view on this?) got my attention: "Let's make sure it shuts off." In my '74, I recently had the experience of the car continuing to run (not running-on, but actually full running -- ignition and fuel at full function) after turning the key to 'off' and removing it. Seems the fuel / ignition circuit stayed energized. Do you have experience with this, and specifically with a failing key switch not opening the fuel / ignition (white wire) circuit when off? Thanks a million.

[@Endfloat]

Yes actually! This exact thing happened to the MG. It turned out the ignition relay was getting enough power to stay energised through an errant supply. Turning on the hazard lights killed the engine! I pulled a load of wires out of the car that weren't original and cleaned up what was and it's spot on now.

[@jimbyrne9071]

Thanks again!

[@roeykidron1997]

Does the bolts on the steering ignition are flat head pr you actually have to break them? I was confused on that. Also as far as I understand undo the wire that goes to the switch, undo two bolts. Put the plug back to the new switch.. lake sure the wheel turns.., make sure everything locks.. and make sure that ignition switch works! Before you break the bolts head. Lol. But yeah I am confused. Good video thou gave me motivation

[@Endfloat]

The heads shear off the bolts when you tighten them so there's nothing to grab. They're not flathead, no. And yes, it would be sensible to test the new switch before removing the old one.

[@johnw6498]

You don't have to fiddle with a chisel & hammer. Use a cut off wheel or hacksaw to cut slots in the bolts and just unscrew with a flat blade screwdriver.

[@MrAntosy]

Glen Hansard fixes his car You sound exactly like him!

[@Endfloat]

I don't have his singing voice unfortunately! 😁

[@smashyrashy]

Do i have an mgb? No Am i going to watch this? YEP!

[@Endfloat]

And that is how I know I'm doing something right as a KZbinr! 😁😎

[@alancrossley509]

So little on the MG Magnette on KZbin. My ignition looks easier than the MGB maybe I should just give it a go lol.

[@Endfloat]

I imagine it's a very similar setup. You might as well.

[@BrianGibbons1966JulesRimet]

Very brave or foolhardy to break those bolts off before testing. Just imagine.

[@Endfloat]

That would have ruined my day!