The good, bad, and the ugly of Li-ion battery jumpstarter

[@hillbilly3366]

I have made a couple of comments in this comment section but I will say that this man has taught me so much about batteries and battery management and electronics and I am very grateful.

[@Jasonoid]

I request that you redo the testing in this video with the Craftsman jump starter. When I have used these in the past, you need to turn the ignition right after enabling the 'boost mode'. It would be very interesting to see how many amps flow to the battery under that mode. I'm guessing you'd see much more amperage while starting the car and running the boost mode at the same time.

[@TehKaiser]

You realize that he is peddling his own genius and products? He intentionally misused and incorrectly measured the factory product not in accordance with the instruction manual.

[@OscarMunoz-xd2hd]

I had the same problem, bad connection didn't allow me to jump van. Thanks for video. I believe you confirmed my suspicion.

[@wrathofsocrus]

I've got a pack I made that's 4S1P of the SPIM08HP cells in a small case that I made for it and that thing is amazingly handy. I've used it for jump starting cars, running a small air pump, diagnosing bad grounds and more. I've had a handful of times where people had their window stuck on their old car and the motor had become gummed up and jammed. The full 16.8V applied directly to the motor would push through the gunk and get them going again for a few weeks until they could get the time and money to repair it properly. It certainly isn't a toy, but it's really cheap and versatile.

[@aultraman]

I always learned something when watching your video. If I had an ICE car, I'd definitely consider making a battery-jump starter like the one you have shown. It's a lot more versatile, and way cheaper.

[@ronhali3164]

I used this for a whole year. Pretty much every week or every other week. You hook it straight to the terminals. It is not a charger. It gives enough current to turnover. Kept it charged at home or something. They have actual car battery chargers that you can leave overnight, similar to taking it to auto zone.

[@electroumit]

Good work. Thank you.

[@Lexusman1972]

The best and safest spot to connect the jump starter ground clamp is to the engine block or cylinder head itself. This is due to the larger cable size between the block and the negative post of the battery. This larger cable allows current to return to the negative post from the starter during cranking. The cable(s) connecting the body of the vehicle to the negative post are much smaller in size.

[@v3nomoso]

How dose this thing charge? My charger is not charging or working. ? I plug it in thru the (in ports) but no charge….?

[@jimthesoundman8641]

It's funny how it says it provides 1500 amps, but the jumper cables are using an XT-60 connector, which has a max of 60 amps.

[@hillbilly3366]

Good point, but I have personally measured from 380 to 550 amps on these types of jump packs with a DC amp clamp. It totally depends on the size of the battery inside.

[@mwint1982]

Max rated, you can theoretically use it until it burns up lol

[@vuaeco]

@jimthesoundman8641: The connector is XT-90, a little bit fatter than XT-60 but still, 1500A is marketing gimmics. You can however get a lot of current much more than 90A through that connector for a brief moment right at the point you start the car. It's called "inrush current" which is always much higher than the rated continuous current on the connectors or the copper cables. And it could go up to hundreds of Amps for a fraction of a second. But 1500A is a no go.

[@MnemonicHack]

Interesting videos, good subject matter, and I absolutely love your accent. +1 sub

[@Roh_Echt]

You need not worry about connecting the ground/earth to the 'neg' post; so long as you have the unit turned 'off'. It has a power button. Therefore, when it is 'off,' you'll get no spark when connecting it. Once connected, you can then turn 'on' the unit.

[@ChristopherCobb-e5u]

How com you didn't show the battery for the charger

[@tohopes]

it's not a battery charger. it's not supposed to charge the car battery. you're using it wrong.

[@vuaeco]

It is a battery charger. It charges the car battery (just enough) to start the car. I'm just using it to "jumpstart" the car, not charging it to 100% full. It's impossible to do that, anyway. That's what it's designed for. My main point is it's only for jumpstarting a car for a few times and not much else.

[@hillbilly3366]

You are correct. You are supposed to start the car during the 30 second period if it's in boost mode while it's "directly connected". It should activate without boost mode if your car battery has enough voltage left in it. (Unless it specifically states that it is a battery charger).

[@randy33111]

Can you review a Fantik jump starter?

[@jay7264]

hahahahaha i borrowed this toyota matrix from scotty kilmor.

[@Sylvan_dB]

The salient difference between the jump starter and your power tool battery is the "jump starter" is designed to deliver high current for a short time while the starter is cranking. For a few seconds it can hundreds of amps (the 1500A rating is a dream but usually realistically about 50% of that rating). Your power tool packs would be very unhappy if asked to deliver power into almost a dead short. The jump starter is used to start the car while it is providing power, NOT to supply charge to the lead battery, wait for it to finish, then start car. You can test the jump starter by using it to start the car without the lead-acid battery connected to the car. Just don't leave the car running very long in that situation as voltage regulation may be bad.

[@vuaeco]

The tool pack is 6P or 6 cells in parallel. Each is capable of delivering 20A continuous. Total continuous current is 120A. Inrush current for the first few seconds (or fractions of a second) is much higher, could be twice that. My 1.8L Matrix only needs about 100A to start so this battery is more than capable of doing it all by itself even without the car lead acid battery. I suggest you should watch that video on the link in the description.

[@Sylvan_dB]

@@vuaeco The jump starter is capable of MUCH MORE CURRENT for 10s of seconds than your power tool batteries. Also there is no BMS in the high current path of the jump starter. The cells used in power tool batteries are usually capable of 10C up to 20C or 30C maximum discharge. The cells in jump starters are usually rated at least 60C and ratings can exceed 100C. (where C is the numeric amp-hour capacity, so nC indicates n multiplied by C)

[@Jasonoid]

@@Sylvan_dB the key to using these jump starters is that you need to start your car within the time it is running (within 30 seconds of pushing the button). It would have been interesting to see the amps on the camera if that was tested.

[@jakegoakes]

Scotty Gilmore sells cars?