The Hasselblad V System Overview with the 500cm

Recently acquired a Hasselblad 500cm body and an increasing fleet of lenses and had some folks ask for my thoughts, so here they are :) And yes I don't have a teleprompter yet, working on it 😂
I cover:
- History of camera, famous photos it's taken
- Types of cameras, differences (500 series vs focal plane)
- Lens systems and compatibility
- Loading and shooting the camera
- Tips for acquiring one
- Tips for using
Errata/Notes:
- Tons more info on the V System lenses: emulsive.org/reviews/camera-r...
- FLE means Floating Lens Element for wide lenses, and has no relation to (C)FE
- Getting the correct Hasselblad service: www.david-odess.com/repair.html
- Hasselblad currently (Feb 2021) services 200 series cameras with the exception of the shutters themselves which are NLA. May do an upcoming video on the 200 series and 110 f2 FE ;)
Hope you enjoy! This is my first video; I intend to do a video on each of the random obsessions that I have (so anticipate I'll be making videos for the next year just to cover the backlog 😂).
For those curious this is shot with a Panasonic HC-VX981K which I set to wide open and disabled the gain, 4k mode with 24 fps. It's lit with four Neewer lights using some off-brand batteries and I added two gels over them, one red to disguise my poorly-decorated living room, and some blue rim lighting just out of frame because I liked the look and the cool tinge of blue lens flare that I got. Because I have trust issues, I used two system audio with a Zoom H6 and an AKG C414 on the "Ol' Reliable" Samson Mini-boom.
Some equipment links to support the channel:
Camera: amzn.to/3pCFwNu
Lights: amzn.to/3sdSNh9
Mic: amzn.to/2NCctfP
Ol' Reliable Mini Boom: amzn.to/3s9JAXs

[@nicksknackstech]

FYI I have two errata: 1. Apparently you are supposed to slide the leader paper UNDER the little metal tab on Hasselblad (this is different from some other camera systems) and then once you do, you can insert without removing the darkslide since this prevents the paper from catching. 2. The 205FCC/TCC do not have matrix metering. They have a much tighter spot meter and a built in zone system display (used in the Z mode). I'll cover this in an upcoming video on the 200 series. The 203FE metering pattern is demarcated on screens like the 42210 and is much larger (20% of area).

[@nicksknackstech]

@@careypridgeon I’ve discovered that the Acute Matte D screen can make it more difficult to focus with different lenses (I’ve since sold my 500cm and bought the 203 because I’m a mad man). Have a video planned on that one.

[@nicksknackstech]

@@careypridgeon yeah then only really compelling reason is autoexposure plus compatibility with the 110 f/2. If you don’t need those doesn’t make sense.

[@KeritechElectronics]

Simple, modular and extremely well made. In other words - legendary. It's so impressive that this thing of beauty was used on Earth and in space, and it's been made for 65 friggin' years! That dates back to NACA (NASA predecessor) and covers all the space programs, both crewed and uncrewed. For anyone who doesn't know, there were also digital image sensor backs replacing the traditional film drives, switching was a breeze thank to modularity. Don't think that the old' Bladdy went out of use as soon as the industry went from analog to digital :) Wondering how the film smells :)

[@nicksknackstech]

Smells great 😂

[@DerGeileEisbaer]

Annoying smart ass pro tip: Snapping on the film back like that (3:24) wears out the mechanism over time. Always remember to push the lever when attaching the film back to the camera. I know the clicking sound is super satisfying but at least the mechanism won't break as soon - hopefully :D

[@OfficialNintendo]

Very informative video! Just a suggestion: when putting on your film back press the button so it clicks in softly. (Was told this by an older gentleman that loved his Hassy. It prevents wear on the locks and body of the camera).

[@nicksknackstech]

Can't have any brassing on the priceless 500cm :) I'm not sure how much worse the gentle pressure on the back is versus the "studio slam." Probably good practice though.

[@markgarcia8253]

@@nicksknackstech It will break the leak seal with the bent hooks if the studio slam is done over time. And since parts are rare, you’re fucked

[@trapjaw7253]

Great video

[@leonarddavis8449]

The edge of the film must go under the metal strip on the side, You raise or lower the strip with the latch that locks in the insert.

[@nicksknackstech]

Yeah realized that about a day after I uploaded this 😂 it’s somewhat bamboozling because several other similar cameras require the opposite on the loading technique. But I assume this is why the camera ate a roll of film early on.

[@jacovanlith5082]

The Hasselblad 500 and SWC are full proof outdoor cameras.

[@mikifrances-correia1328]

I noticed you actually have the 'new c' 80mm c t*, this was made in combo with the 501c I believe, focusing is nicer, less plastic parts, less frequency of repair needed. Also you didn't slide the film paper into the silver guiding tab at the top of the pressure plate, it shouldn't catch on the edge if you do that.

[@nicksknackstech]

I learned that film loading snafu a few months in 😂 That definitely explains why the camera ate that roll of film. I didn’t have any super obvious focusing issues as a result but the loading is definitely less finicky with that tab protecting the leeward side. Yeah I ended up purchasing that 80mm used off eBay from a shop in MA and only discovered that it was an unusual bundled specimen as I was looking to sell it. Was a pretty cool lens, although I’ve upgraded to the CFE now for maximum 205FCC fun time :) New video soon on that system.

[@muppetpaster]

Mamiya also made a pretty decent camera in this formfactor....Had and used litterally dozens of both Mamiya and Hasselblad's over the years....(about 20 each I think since 1976)Still have 4 H's and 3 M; s

[@anthonymiller8979]

And don't forget the 50mm CF FLE with a floating lens element and second focus ring and scale to help reduce distortion at close focus distances

[@nicksknackstech]

Yeah I had been a bit confused by the red numbers focusing dial which apparently meant “please stop down.” The FLE was definitely an upgrade :) I’ve been using the 50mm FE FLE f/2.8 and it’s quite a lens.

[@jacovanlith5082]

Nonsense on the 1/500 sec. The Hasselblad is a great outdoor camera; even on the moon. The perfect camera for outdoor electronic flash in sunlight.

[@shademanirvanipour6870]

You got a good medium format camera made in Sweden and is 6/6 120 Roll film camera and you need over £1.800. Or more to buy the one showing in this video

[@ChrisLeeX]

“My channel, not yours “ lmao

[@nicksknackstech]

I’m glad you appreciate my special flavor of snark.

[@arricammarques1955]

503CX + 50mm f4 : )

[@blackbelt4488]

The A24 back works great it you do lose one frame. For me it’s cheaper than buying a new back

[@nicksknackstech]

Rumor is that you can fit 12 frames on if you offset the film a bit. I imagine this will work fine for Kodak which gives you some extra film at the end but some of the film manufacturers barely give you enough for 12 as it is. I did try using a 220 back for 35mm film which was quite fun.

[@ScentedSagebrush]

@@nicksknackstech You can get 12 exposures on a A24 back, the secret is to NOT scroll the film to the "arrows". Instead just feed the leader into the spool, and turn it about 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn, so the leader paper is wrapped barely 1 turn or less. Then close the back and wind on to frame 1, you will get 12 exposures on the roll!

[@1911geek]

Is he reading off his laptop, regurgitating information. Good readings mono tone at time.

[@nicksknackstech]

I’ll get a teleprompter for you on the next video 😜

[@jacovanlith5082]

What does the M stands for ??????????????????????? A MODIFIED camera. Just like the SWC/M and the EL?M A lot of the things have been modified. So it was not just the screen. Success finding the rest of the M.