The hook is dead on modern full chisel chains ?

[@Gordon_L]

There are homeowners , firewood cutters , arborists , tree fallers , campers and emergency services people who all use chainsaws , in my situation as a property owner of several acres I need chains I can file easily with a round file and not bother about a factory shape that is lost or difficult to repeat after the first sharpen . The kiss principle . Re. our Aussie hardwoods , there's a big difference between cutting green hardwoods to timber that has been dead standing for a couple of years or more . Interesting video I watched with interest , I don't think I'll be doing anything different in my case but it's always good to get the thoughts of someone who goes into detail on a subject , so thank you .

[@krabatour]

It is not reality, that on Stihl RS chain is all original profile destroyed with round file. There is non-even crossprofile of the sharp edged tooth, when filed in 30°, side view (and angles) looks similar to the new chain. And so is with all chains with advanced teeth geometry like Oregon Powercut LPX,...

[@ChainsawUsers]

Good comments and what matters is what works for you and the wood you cut.

[@ChainsawUsers]

A chainsaw chain with too much hook will cut aggressively and quickly, but will also dull quickly. This is because the chain will lack support underneath the tooth. Too much hook can also cause the saw to experience unnecessary strain and the user to experience increased vibration.

[@902hand7]

But for those folks that build their own go-fast saws, take a pick-up load of saws to the wood pile, cut with each saw for only 1 tank of fuel before grabbing the next saw and aren't in the business of selling firewood -- a chain with too much hook is sweet...

[@nseric1233]

Everyone in North America complained about chains being slow out of the box and needing to sharpen them before use. The new profiles fix that and work great in our softwoods. It sucks for you on the other side of the world with your rock hard wood which requires blunter angles/sharpening, now you have to sharpen a chain before you use it not us.

[@ChainsawUsers]

Yes your comments are spot on

[@academicmailbox7798]

If you observe the X cut chain, if you account for when the cutter rocks itself and rotates itself around the rivet rotation points, when the cutter meets wood. What you'll find at that point is the side plate profile leans back and becomes flat-ish, . . and that tiny 40 degree top plate edge, . . it sort of points directly up in the air. What does this remind one of? It's something close to a micro version of square ground chain. The only way one could attempt even to replicate that top plate hook later on in use, when re-sharpening is maybe to come up steeply from underneath using a sharp round file (usually what I do is file teeth from behind the chainsaw handle leaning over the saw and bar, . . then alternate by clamping the bar and working from beyond the nose of the bar, back over it to sharpen again). But it does require one to try to hit side plates with a file stroke or two. Then repeat that process having sharpened the side plates, and do it all on a second pass, getting at top plates the second time. I find clamping the bar and working from the nose back to the bar and chain enables you to file along the top plate if needs be. There are trying positions one can stand in, in relation to the bar. Behind the power head, in front of the nose, and to the side of the bar (if one stands to the side of the bar, which is how I did it for a long while, it has it's advantages). Except for top plate work I think in front of nose, and behind power head is better. Basically one needs 'three' vice holding set up's, and move the saw between each of them. That's what's best to do.

[@rooster3019]

I have been using the new Husqvarna and Oregon chains for cutting mostly red oak and black cherry here ins USA. I reallly can not tell that the out of the box profile is any quicker of cut than when I have refreshed with a proper sized round file. The round filed profile actualy seems to last slightly longer before needeing a touch-up. I have changed from a 10 percent fille depth to the 20 and the chain sharpness does seem more durable. Using the 20 percent file depth has me making two extra file strokes downward into the gullet to help clear chips and expecially ripping noodles better. When I use the grinder, I use a CBN wheel that is not reshapable so far as I know and the profile is slightly different from my filing and maybe less aggressive; setting/checking anfles with angle meter. I do not cut soft woods other than tulip poplar which is a fairly soft "hard wood".

[@ChainsawUsers]

Thanks for your comments

[@IndianaDoug]

Good video. From my tests: -HEXA is fastest and holds an edge longest in 3/8. -23RS Pro is the fastest and holds an edge longest in .325 -Square chain, if filed correctly will cut faster and hold an edge as long.

[@ChainsawUsers]

I am to lazy to square ground these days lol

[@TimHeaton-lj9so]

I noticed they're doing this with most chain these days for me lasted longer more aggressive and hell to start using my round file took some work

[@Chucky-b7v]

Happy New Year to you and family, Tinker. All the best for 2025 and thanks for all of your efforts over 2024.

[@ChainsawUsers]

Thanks mate

[@gunterbecker8528]

On my 325 full chisel chain I use a 13/64 file n it works perfectly. Anyway good topic again !

[@Mightycaptain]

Have you done a video on profiling a grinding stone to match hexa?

[@ChainsawUsers]

This is one link to Hexa I did

[@ChainsawUsers]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/gn2peaWAid6tbrcsi=nY2tjr1TDDQUv-GH

[@ChainsawUsers]

Yes shall make a new video of that today

[@shinichirohida2556]

Great information! Thank you😊

[@kknows3512]

Good to know Thanks!

[@gloriaamando4491]

Wow fantastic video👋👋👋great information Spanner Man💪👍😘

[@henrybarker1159]

It looks like they are trying a "John Deer" to force you to pay the dealer to sharpen your chain or buy a chain grinder with the possible exception of hexa Thank god for Chinese chain the other option is square filing where I am I need to resharpen in the field especially on logs that have been dragged in wet conditions

[@krabatour]

You are looking for complications where there are none. Where the manufacturer allows the use of a round file, the cutting properties of the chain are preserved. Ultimately, much more depends on the correct guide angle and the correct file diameter and the correct height of the limiting teeth. And the appropriate choice of chain for the saw with regard to use.

[@ChainsawUsers]

Not looking for any complications just saying what I can see with new chains. You as an end user decide if you will ruin that factory profile or use a grinder to duplicate it. All I see is a small gain 5% to 10% at best. Husqvarna is the best example where the factory profile will be ruined with a file. That's my main point here. Manufacturers are producing cutter profiles that can not be duplicated by a round file. That's my real main point. Also I think chain manufacturers bring out these new profiles as a marketing exercise to promote thier chain range. They are making small geometry changes that really give very little gain. Stihl Hexa is the real deal here this chain has a world wide patent and offers real gains over the standard C shape full chisel with a 10 % reduction in kerf making it a narrow kerf cutter with aggressive side plate top plate cutting angle with good chip evacuation. And good chain pulling in capability making an improvement to the cutting performance

[@CatDaddySteve]

Husqvarna X Cut cuts a LOT faster and is long lasting . I'm a pro Oregon tree feller