THE HOUSE OF DIOR | MAKING OF RED BAR COAT

In 2017, to coincide with the NGV’s House of Dior: Seventy years of Haute Couture, two new couture works were commissioned for the fashion and textiles collection with funds donated by the David Richards Bequest and the F&T Supporters Group. The first, Look 10, Bar Coat, 2012, was from Raf Simons debut couture collection for Dior.
As part of the acquisition process, documentary photography and film footage was taken in order to reveal some of the specialist techniques, tools and production methods specific to the making of couture garments and to give a behind-the-scenes-glimpse into the Dior ateliers.
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#NGV #HouseofDior #HauteCouture #Art #Fashion

[@wadchulukinat]

The level of details is enough to make me weep.... it's even more beautiful seeing the piece put together than seeing the finished product

[@anjanipatel3497]

I absolutely, absolutely agree with you. There's a certain comfort, a certain euphoria that comes with seeing a person or a team of people doing exactly what it is that they're meant to and saw that here. Not going to lie, I definitely wept.

[@dominicweber]

Don’t be fooled, this is wayyy harder than the Essence d’Herbier dress. This is the pinnacle of soft tailoring at its very finest. Absolutely marvellous work.

[@catheline51]

Where would one get training to be that skilled of a seamstress? Fashion design schooĺ, on-the-job training, taught by their mothers? Just incredible skill.

[@dominicweber]

@@catheline51 I personally trained in the famous London menswear tailoring scene, which is why I can appreciate this work. However, this is couture, soft-tailoring at that, and especially Parisian couture has some very distinct techniques and attributes. The basics are the same, I would recommend the Newham College in London, that offers the Tailoring course the Savile Row houses demand potential employees pass before entering as an apprentice. From then, you can reorientate and try to get into one of the couture houses in Paris, where they will teach you first hand. You can also try to just get into one of the Couture Houses in Paris as an apprentice straight away, they will tell you if there is a course they think you should do first. This kind of skill is not taught at schools, and has never been, you really have to go where the wisdom sits, which is in the heart of Paris. But there are some amazing books on the specific couture skills, a very good author is Claire B. Schaeffer, check her out! And then, you just need to get sewing. There’s also an amazing Savile Row tailor here on KZbin giving a tutorial on how to sew a full suit. Just look it up, you’ll find him, look for “how to sew a jacket” or something like that. When there is a will, there is a way! Good luck to you, we need new hands in the industry! Couture is dying, and fast fashion is taking over, which is an incredible shame. Best wishes!

[@catheline51]

@@dominicweber thank you for your speedy reply. Im retired and was just dreaming of having such superb skills. I actually lived in Paris in the 80's on assignment w/the American Embassy there. I know well Avenue Montaigne and all the fashion houses there. It was a great 4 yrs.

[@dominicweber]

@@catheline51 you’re so welcome, and how fabulous to have lived there! If you just wanted to try for yourself, the books and the tutorials I mentioned are definitely a starting point. Believe me, nothing is impossible in the creation of garments, and you can definitely become a fine tailor even now, no matter your age. Just take up some fabric, and let your hands become accustomed to the magic of giving some pieces of cloth a soul. If you have a local tailor, I’m sure they’d be delighted to share their knowledge or even just chat and give some tips here and there to a fellow passionate couturier, especially in these lonely Covid-times. Wishing you all the best, do not give up!!

[@catheline51]

@@dominicweber Thank you! In the U.S. I seriously doubt any tailor would be willing to share their secrets. I now live in Las Vegas. Believe me...this is not Europe! I should add: after Paris I had assignments in the Middle East with the foreign service. I came across some of the most beautiful fabrics I had ever seen. I started collecting and combing the souks in Morocco, Saudi Arabia, Israel, India. Silks, jacquards, Indian saris, velvets. I have enough textiles for 3 lifetimes. I didnt buy them to make clothing. I like to do textiles/color collages and home decor stuff. When my daughter & I left Jeddah I was collecting as much as I could as I knew I'd never be back. She said "mom, if you buy any more fabric I'm leaving you!" She was 12 then. Haha. Textiles are my passion & I'll never part with many of them.

[@LAMODÉLISTE]

Designers should give artisans the biggest respect. It is not easy to make creative patterns, sewing with passion and constructing every garment. Tailors/ artisans are the real artists of a fashion house

[@tc7547]

Well said

[@nekrokleptic]

That part

[@SueMead]

There was a time when seamstresses and tailors used similar techniques in their day-to-day work. I remember learning to 'tack' when sewing (the hand stitching on the collar and inside waist of this coat and of course suits and other solid garments) and making facings and what a difference it makes to an item. The prices weren't cheap but were reasonable because a coat would last you many years, often being passed on to someone else to wear.

[@nicholo1]

Sue Mead yes, fast fashion and the idea of buying clothes to use and then throw away did not exist. Our world is so fucked

[@gabrielnewman7850]

I have watched my mother doing this kind of job many times. It is art. Incredible work.

[@asmaerahou747]

Great salute to the womens and mens in in the shadows

[@mariabuzdugan679]

Asmae Rahouti To the women and men without "s"😆

[@asmaerahou747]

Maria Buzdugan you're right ,😁😁😁

[@lesamisdelacuisineprovenca9534]

They are called "petites mains" in France.... It means little hands.... Sewing hands .....

[@Wierdgirl5834]

All you see are the models and the designers but the people who are sitting there for several hours a day, putting in a great deal of focus and attention to the clothes , making sure every stitch, every sequin, every seam is clean and intact - they are the true stars of fashion.

[@beautyxbtsarmy6017]

I hope the workers get paid a lot for their tremendous hard work

[@gabitrapier-papapietro1916]

Actually they don't

[@bluecute123]

usually small groups are being paid very high as they're exclusive and private.

[@Gweynn5]

They actually make good money but years of apprenticeship b4 working on an individual piece.

[@Writeoscar]

These artisans make very good money from exclusive high end couture houses. This is not ready to make from oversea factories with dim light.

[@Modelqaibottle]

Some of them have been with Dior for more than 20 years. They all talk about how well they’re looked after by the ateliers. It’s like Facebook and Google. They’re the reason the company makes money.

[@JR-xw9rx]

I am in awe of the incredible talent that goes on behind the scenes. They should walk the runway with designers for recognition!

[@fabianfarbeyond558]

Dedication, craftsmanship, patients, talent and love of the trade...the magicians behind the vail of Dior’s conjurings are worthy of our admiration. Yes in my eyes it’s truly Magic.

[@ggburg8118]

Fabian Farbeyond ....these women and men are true masters’ of their craft. I have been sewing for 55 years, but to be able to create as these masters’ do is still an aspiration for me. FABULOUS! Magnifique!

[@19gregske55]

I am certain that these clips are calming a lot of COVID-cranky souls. Oscar WILDE said: "Quality is remembered long after price is forgotten."

[@wayneartmann9766]

I wish these companies would put this all down in a book to preserve the knowledge.

[@nicolasdupont723]

Actually they do :)

[@Nquerojantarsozinho]

Not only books, but they have all the samples of fabric, embroidery, prints and textures. Haute Couture takes archiving very seriously, but also keep it for themselves. As Yves Saint Laurent said: make clothes don't have any mystery, but many secrets.

[@TrungTran-yg3uv]

Oh they do. Have been, since the start. They just don't release it.

[@dominicweber]

@@nicolasdupont723 For example? Do you have titles?

[@zaroyana]

@@dominicweber the books are in their private collection, not released to the public. However, Claire Schaeffer has a very good book in how to construct a "copy-cat" jacket. Be prepared; it takes about a week to put together from start to finish. www.amazon.ca/Couture-Cardigan-Jacket-Schaeffer-2013-11-07/dp/B0182QC0L0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1543509148&sr=8-2&keywords=claire+schaeffer

[@kokonana4086]

I've always been marveled how the delicate dresses/jackets were done in the past. Without all sort of technology and helping mechanism, how they needle that intricate piece of embroidery and everything. Now I know. This is how they've done it. It really shows human ingenuity and artistic skill at its best. Hats off to these artisans who keep this tradition alive. Salute!

[@just_cade]

I almost got emotional when she sewed in the label. How bittersweet it must feel to put the final touch on something that you’ve spent so much time with.

[@just_cade]

Absolutely beautiful. There is nothing like watching a master seamstress creating magic. Haute Couture is one of the great arts that should be preserved at all costs.

[@wickandde]

Damn I hope these couture ninjas get paid well! This is pure magic.

[@llc1976]

It’s just gorgeous! So much sewing by hand! I had no idea very little machine use! The stitches are amazing! I would like be able to make beautiful things like that all day long, a dream job for me.

[@jonwiley5549]

LLC I think it’s a requirement of genuine couture that there be a certain percentage of the sewing done by hand. What we have in America is what I call “designer” wear, not couture.

[@markusmulder_]

And afterwards they showed it to Raf Simons and he said “I sink dze collar should be little bit higher and dze length little bit longer”. 😂😂😂

[@morganolfursson2560]

That's a really hilarious comment Markus .

[@axelaxelmcr]

hahahahahahaha

[@LAMODÉLISTE]

That’s why designers need to be hands on not just dictate every person in the pattern/ sewing/ construction room. It is hard to adjust everything once everything is sewn. Sorry occupational hazard lol

[@Chejones27]

Hahaha

[@accc9090]

@@LAMODÉLISTE The whole point of what they do is make it up, refine it, make it up again, refine it more, maybe even change completely, make it up again. That's the point. Almost nothing we wear came from a first attempt in the workroom. The designer doesn't need to be hands on. S/he needs to be able to refine their design once it's made up and tell the sewing atelier what they want to change. The designer designs and refine. That's their job in a big House like that. Not sit around sewing.

[@mscott3918]

Beautiful. A real work of art. It couldn't be anything other than Dior.

This was an absolute pleasure to watch and see the amazing work that goes behind garments like these 😍

[@verehalstead872]

I Have NO Words!!!!! I'm Speechless .!!

[@lailanilsson6553]

Amazing tailoring! What a beautiful coat.

[@arnaudcutrone1784]

I love this coat, of my all times raf pieces, and i had never noticed the litlle pleat on the bottom of that sleeve

[@jobond3317]

Amazing truly awe-inspiring not just a coat but a work of crafted wearable art

[@kevinnapier1014]

Amazing!! Great job on the video as well team!

[@MrKisa2510]

Omg the music, this is so 😌 relaxing

[@wilhelminavanessen8496]

How can you not like this? This is beyond perfection!

[@jasonaguilar9613]

After taking my first sowing class last spring, watching this was visually stimulating. I'd love to touch the fabric of that coat and I wish to learn more about sowing in the future!

[@user-wp4fv2zp3m]

the same)

[@Megan6772]

Sewing with an “e” dear 😊

[@jase87]

Sowing is a very different activity from sewing ;)

[@Deltadivaix]

Absolutely beautiful craftsmanship!

[@deemg2830]

That was a superb exhibition. Thank you NGV for bringing Dior to Melbourne.

[@nolongerinuse9886]

Great seeing how it all comes together and all the hidden details.

[@radhikapatil1986]

Music just takes this video to whole another level ❤️❤️❤️

[@artSFCA]

Great educational video on behind the scene of haute couture.

[@jewelandfriends]

Hands can really do magic to make every people beautiful and feel amazing. Everyone of us can do magic too.

[@andieshultz7392]

That show in it self was amazing

[@luarbyluar]

I have been always in love with Raf's work at the house of Dior

[@ninjaprincess5265]

WOW !!! Respect ! This is beautiful!!!

[@chicopranata]

Talented people who work behind beautiful dress created by door. We should appreciate it well

[@sezza271]

What a labour of love! Absolutely fabulous! 😍👏

[@dianemakes]

Absolutely beautiful!!! Thank you!! I am inspired to drape something for myself on my dress form.

[@orlandocordova8818]

AH! FRENCH FASHIONS!/ LA MODA! ESPECIALLY FRENCH COUTURE! LOVE "THE BAR SUIT! JACKETS! COATS! THANKS FOR POSTING!

[@alcssmith2090]

Wow, absolutely amazing. One woman doing the work, and others take the credit for it

[@dominicweber]

Superb piece

[@verehalstead872]

So Beautiful!!! The Designer Was Genius !!!

[@mbroihier]

Beautiful clothes like this just melt me.

[@CTruitt]

So elegant ♥️♥️♥️ it’s beautiful

[@pedinurse1]

Stunning, great workmanship

[@lesamisdelacuisineprovenca9534]

Even without any logo we see this outfit has been made in the best luxury quality we can find at Christian Dior house....

[@itisonlyme1]

That coat is "un délice"!

[@Michaeleism]

Stunning. Incredible attention to detail and shape.

[@pablorivera8847]

Beautiful,definitely resembles beauty,the woman in red❤❤

[@caliinthevalley24681]

😯 wow 🤩 if she asked me to sweep the floors and take out the garbage so i could just learn from her i would. amazing skills

[@HugoPerez-wr4er]

😁😊 yeah is a lot work.

[@adindasetyawan2946]

Work of art

[@gardeniamartins8412]

A perfeição nos mínimos detalhes! Parabéns Dior!🥂🍾

[@jonwiley5549]

The seamstresses probably sign all kinds of disclosure agreements that they will not copy any of the designs they work on. As we can see, this woman is apparently skilled enough to have a Dior-like wardrobe any time she might want it.

[@MariaAuxiliadora-xv7ni]

Belíssima. Dedicação e Arte. Sou Grata

[@paulinawaas9204]

This is Art!

[@matiasseguelmeza9789]

i wanna wear this so much

[@rock-hd5sp]

Professional work

[@tyn999]

It's so elegant! Amazing work!

[@lightowl4345]

Amazing work!

[@kimitheterrible9433]

I could watch them all day long...

[@itisonlyme1]

same!

[@unaninanine3743]

Intimidating magic 🤩

[@MsAppleofhiseye]

Beautiful.

[@JemimaCassidy]

so fascinating to watch

[@jaya6964]

It’s really lovely!

[@greeneyedwarlock882]

I SWOON WITH PROUD, UNMITIGATED LUST AND AWE at this magnificent creation and the even more magnificently talented Seamstresses who built it. #OMG!!!

[@michaelbruno1330]

Round of 👏 for the seamstress and the pattern makers....that's the hardest part of fashion design

[@lourdespalumbo2103]

Beatiful!!

[@wvanderwahl]

That coat is beyond exquisite. Its worth the $40, 000- $70,000

[@Isabel1304]

Bello el trabajo de las chicas de Dior . Toda una obra de arte.

[@AnaCosta-sq7lo]

I love this coat.... Love Raf Simmons... I wish I could have it, and a Diorama bag :)

[@FUNPartsOFLifE]

It’s truly an art piece 🥰🥰🥰

[@olgademaio2310]

Impeccabile e meraviglioso 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏

[@gurnamsingh7509]

That was extravagant

[@M116saetern]

That’s gorgeous! I want one!

[@juanadominguez2843]

Hermoso trabajo!!

[@mvandradez]

Just lovely and delightful. Awesome women!

[@user-rk2wo5ue6y]

Sooo beautiful work

[@RommyFallas]

Just wonderful

[@angelicacalderon8243]

Stunning!!😍

[@thembisamakhoba7219]

Yooo i m speechless 😍😍😍

[@zevrxn]

i really would love to work in couture, the amount of fine work that goes into hand sewing everything is just mesmerizing

[@isabelalma6189]

Meu Deus que emoção! A roupa toda feita a mão ! Que DEUS TE ABENÇOE ABUNDANTEMENTE!😍🤩😘🙏🙏🙏

[@matthewchoong8459]

Absolutely Amazing & Stunning 👍🙏❤

[@jolineforpresident]

Me as a hobby seamstress: what are al these witch craft techniques I've never seen or heard off??

[@obedan3990]

Magnificento!!

[@jovanapopovic1912]

Savrseno...prekrasno... ❤

[@Ceizyl]

Magnifique !

[@BojaxStyle]

Bravo

[@user-gb7yt7ck9t]

Top si balle Magnifique 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏

[@universtechnologie7373]

BRAVOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

[@wenisme9670]

2:00 What is that brown-grayiss fabric thing? Is that lining fabric? What kind of fabric is that? Its looks like to make the coat stiffer and give some volume.

[@chinchillacaliente]

Amazing, exquisito... ♥️

[@susanagoni493]

Exelente calidad, y un esquisito gustó me fascinó 👏👏👏

[@gerardoarenasss]

I think that if Monsieur Dior could look at what John Galliano and Raf Simons did at his house he would be proud, Galliano brought the drama and the dream whereas Raf brought simplicity and understated glamour, amazing

[@ShweMyaukMyauk]

Gerardo Arenas and Maria sold bra and friendship bands with poor monsieur dior Name all over it

[@acgruel]

Wow, just stunning. Amazing seamstress

[@denissealvarado208]

Wonderful

[@anshitamishra9518]

OMG!! Classy!

[@arrowb3408]

I remembered the similar red coat but shorter in length back in 90s at an high end shopping mall. It was very pricy but I never knew it was all human craft works till now........STF......