the House of Worth's Glass Escalator : Sexism in fashion history and haute couture

[@seaborgium919]

The Glass Elevator: It's women's work unless there's money in it.

[@saraquill]

Like with brewing and midwifery.

[@SnappyDragon]

Money, prestige, et c. Yup.

[@simolator]

programming T_T

[@lydia1634]

Film Editing too

[@siiri2052]

cooking is another one of those. women have been feeding families for generations, but if there's a michelin star to be had... here come the lads. the same goes for painting and music and many other skills that are stereotypically gendered 'female'. girls are supposed to please at the piano and paint pretty watercolours, while opera houses and museums are filled with the works of men. the list is endless. and endlessly frustrating.

[@New_Wave_Nancy]

As a former librarian, thank you for including us in your discussion of the glass escalator. It is definitely a thing. More women in the field, but more men in supervisory roles.

[@angelmaden1559]

@@New_Wave_Nancy Nursing, clinical labs. So common!

[@SnappyDragon]

So many different fields came up when I was looking at the studies, I wanted to list as many as I could to show that it is a far-reaching issue!

[@kindofcl]

The physical labor of sewing that goes into dressmaking and all clothes making being constantly ignored and devalued, especially for being "woman's work" makes me so upset

[@SnappyDragon]

THIS. Seriously, I want the people whose hands were doing the thing to be getting the credit for it. And also the pay. Doesn't seem that complicated.

[@zombiedoggie2732]

This reminds me of one of my ex friends. She was so obsessed about so called "Women's work" and devaluing it to try to make herself to be "manly" she actually blew a gasket at me for just mentioning embroidery or sewing to her. Like sewing is somehow "Less than".

[@lisam5744]

Anything deemed 'women's work' (especially if it's not paid for like housekeeping, caring for relatives, community work, etc.) is devalued by society (AKA men).

[@koroso31105]

Omg the computer example was so on point. And now we have male multi-billionaire tech CEOs and female digital assistants in their products.

[@SnappyDragon]

THAT. Eugh.

[@maryjackson1194]

Irma Wyman was a pioneer in computing; there is a famous photo of a group of men from the US Treasury visiting a site where she is the woman is programming an ENIAC. She became the first female VP of Honeywell, and their first female CIO. She said that she went into computer engineering because it was the only engineering discipline for which people didn't have a mental image of the sex of the professional. In the early 1980's, women graduated from computer programs in the highest rates ever. In business systems, I've worked in major corporations with equal numbers of men and women in IT, and with equal participation by women at the top. And then I watched the numbers drop.

[@datafoxy]

The history that pivots on singular men is a problem, thanks for opening up a greater history that is not spoken about enough.

[@SnappyDragon]

For sure! This channel does not subscribe to the great man theory of history, in fashion or anywhere else.

[@spiritualtruthseeker1947]

An excellent example of this is Teddy Roosevelt and the establishment of National Parks. Yes, he did great work, but he was not the only one. It wasn’t only men. Research Watkins Glen in upstate New York. It was established and maintained by women. They hand built paths and steps around a gorge and were among the first to promote the healing of the human spirit through contact with nature.

[@e.urbach7780]

I've been fortunate enough in my life to be able to handle some original 19th century garments, and I'll never forget my excitement at finding and getting to examine an 1860s ballgown in dark yellow silk taffeta. The best part about this garment was the fact that the fitting mockup had been used as the lining of the bodice, and still had the dressmaker's pencil fitting marks in it! Super relatable, because I know I have at least one bodice that was lined with its own mockup complete with fitting marks, but nobody had recorded who the dressmaker was.

[@SnappyDragon]

Ahhhh that's so cool! I've definitely done that with mockups, or made them in a fabric I could make wearable later. I'd be so curious what could be learned about the patterning process from those fit marks too.

[@jensanruby]

It must feel great to own a peice of history! Especially one with all of the markings so you get a peak into the method behind the magic

[@e.urbach7780]

@@jensanruby oh, unfortunately I don't own that dress with the dressmaker's markings inside! That belongs to a museum that I used to work for, History San Jose. A lot of their textiles have been photographed and put online in the last 10 years or so, which is the project that I was working on when I saw the dress with the dressmaker's markings on the bodice lining. The photos might be on their website, if you want to look it up!

[@jensanruby]

@@e.urbach7780 Thank you for the information, now I get to go see pictures of it. I'm glad it's in a museum honestly and is taken care of

[@crystaldottir]

I love the scene in "The Gilded Age" where a poor dressmaker tried to tell Agnes van Rhijn what kind of bustles the other ladies were wearing now. That show is very smart about how they use dress as part of the storytelling.

[@SnappyDragon]

I'm not caught up on the show, so I haven't seen that moment yet! I'll have to catch up.

[@isabelledionneartiste]

Glass escalator is a good name for that phenomenom. Also, Abby Cox made a video about Worth a few years ago in the same vein. She talked about some other women designer.

[@rae·tetza1999]

Came here for the comments about Abby Cox & Cathy Hay's videos

[@Kat_Andrews]

Yep, Abby's video was along the same lines

[@SkyeID]

I appreciate the acknowledgement of my existence as a nonbinary person, and the fact that sexism in fashion applies to nonbinary people too

[@lilykatmoon4508]

Saaaaaame!

[@SnappyDragon]

I will never not be adding those moments when I have the opportunity. I see you and I'm so glad you're here!

[@SkyeID]

@@SnappyDragon thank you!

[@SpringStarFangirl]

Oh boy... can't wait to see the chaos in the comments! /s Okay, but let's put it this way: I had no idea that the glass escalator was a concept, but now that you've explained it, it makes SO. MUCH. SENSE. I personally love the aesthetic and design of Worth's ironwork gown, but I've seen so many fashion plates that I don't think I can call it unique in any sense (other than the dress panels likely having been woven specifically for that gown. That's unique taken to an extreme.) Point is, I'm gonna go research his contemporaries, because they deserve more love.

[@SnappyDragon]

Precisely! The dress itself is pretty and a good, visible example of design trends of the time, but I think it should be exhibited on its own merits and not to the exclusion of other things.

[@SpringStarFangirl]

@SnappyDragon absolutely!

[@Albinojackrussel]

Teachers are my go to to explain the glass escalator. Ask someone to imagine a teacher, it's a woman. Ask them to imagine a head teacher and it's a man. Hell, half the time if you ask someone to tell you what person runs a school they'll say a head master (the other half they'll say head teacher). I've *never* had someone say a head mistress.

[@SpringStarFangirl]

@Albinojackrussel I usually think of a principal???

[@Albinojackrussel]

@@SpringStarFangirl might be a British Vs American thing. Hadn't really considered that, I forgot you guys say principal

[@NatalieMcCollam]

6:24 Same! When I worked as a massage therapist, the only two men on staff each was the lead therapist in turn, while the rest of the staff, who were all women, did not get promoted.

[@SnappyDragon]

Why am I not surprised?

[@Silverfoxx001]

if your looking for a place to start try Anna Dunlevey, she was a 19th dressmaker from Chicago who put her name on her bodices

[@SnappyDragon]

I'll definitely look her up!

[@linahagvall6807]

@@SnappyDragon there's a Swedish dressmaker called Augusta Lundin who worked during the same period as Worth. Lovely designs!

[@slottsdraken]

Swedish Augusta Lundin have made a lot of fantastic dresses in the same era. She has been called the Swedish Worth. There is a big exhibition right now

[@SnappyDragon]

Oooh I'll have to look it up!

[@slottsdraken]

@SnappyDragon I live in Sweden and it's my native language so just let me know if you need help translating

[@maryeckel9682]

Ah, the designer of that glorious copper gown!

[@slottsdraken]

@maryeckel9682 Image google for "Augusta Lundin utställning" and it will be a lot AF gorgeous pictures

[@sarawahlund223]

Where is that exhibition? She is a fashinating designer and business woman.

[@lenabreijer1311]

Yes, I have frequently felt a bit put off by Worth and his idolization. And the glass escalator is very real. Your example of the programming work is also real. And I see it in all my craft areas too. Men get the media coverage and the fame in quilting, knitting, needlework and are considered much more innovative then the women they copy. However I can't bitch too loud because all of the ones I follow are part of the LGBTQ community and have their own struggles.

[@SnappyDragon]

Yeah the intersectionality of it can definitely get thorny!

[@lenabreijer1311]

@SnappyDragon I don't have to feel thorny about Worth however. I just wish I could take a cruise with Arne and Carlos and visit Kaffe's studio...(but I have issues with sea sickness, air travel and health)

[@Albinojackrussel]

It really does my head in in online spaces where a man will pose with a crafted item and get so much praise. And yes, often the items are lovely, but the praise is well above what a woman posing with the same item would have got.

[@Lara-jp4xk]

I agree with the glass escalator problem. However, what I've noticed in the pattern-making, sewing and other craft vids is that women talk way more than men while explaining the same stuff. And many times it's what I consider useless info. If I'm looking for a pattern, I'm not interested you just got well after flu or in your cat bombing the vid. I want to see how to make that pattern. And no, I don't consider men more innovative than women, just better at stealing inspiration and presenting it as theirs.

[@lenabreijer1311]

@Lara-jp4xk but that is how we are told to market our ideas, with hooks and bonds and chatter. Neurotypicals need that small talk to make them feel safe. If you tell them information directly and logically they will freak out and feel insulted.

[@Turquerina]

It's gotten to a point where your average lay person would probably assume that Charles Frederick Worth is the ONE DESIGNER of the 19th century as if no other designers exist. He isn't even the father of haute couture, because great man theory is inherently fallacious. That's like crediting Beau Brummell for inventing modern men's suit. Anyways, while this isn't a 1800s example, I think that Rose Bertin was particularly a good example of someone who helped pioneered haute couture if anything.

[@SnappyDragon]

Absolutely! Goodness, that nickname for him irks me so much. What are we supposed to think was happening, that literally no one made crazy expensive custom dresses for rich people until him?

[@scarlettcurieldancer5195]

I love this way of thinking... As a dancer I know this to be real

[@SnappyDragon]

Gosh it's SO obvious in dance!

[@teucer915]

I would be very interested in you doing a dive into the history of John Reason, also known as Reasonable Blackman, a Tudor-era theatrical costume designer who may have worked with Shakespeare and was one of the first people of color in England about whom we have definite documentation.

[@A11yR0ck3r]

Great video! I like the term glass escalator, I shall be using that.

[@SnappyDragon]

It's such a good word! When I started researching for this video I didn't know there was a sociological term for it, just that I could see the pattern.

[@elisacoffey5140]

I loved this eye opening opinion. Thank you for doing the research. Thank you for sharing the information in context. Thank you for your snap and sass. 🎉

[@cherylrosbak4092]

Honestly, the advice to broaden your research interests applies to everything.

[@SnappyDragon]

So true!

[@Uncle_Smidge]

Cathy Hay and the Peacock Dress saga were a fascinating foray into all of this. (Most of us dorks already know, but still!)

[@kirstenpaff8946]

I kind of understand the logic behind the glass escalator in ballet, where there are traditionally male and female roles. Fewer guys in the field overall means less competition for the lead male roles than for the lead female roles and generally more demand for male dancers. In other career fields, however, I agree that it just boils down to sexism.

[@EmL-kg5gn]

Tbh I think it’s still an example because I don’t think the same logic applies when things are the other way around. When there’s less positions available for women we just get pushed out and overlooked 🤷🏼‍♀️

[@SnappyDragon]

I don't think I agree that the shortage of men negates the glass escalator effect, I think it's another factor that exacerbates it! I've seen male dancers who had what would be career-destroying technique issues with their dancing given steady ballet company jobs despite those issues, while female dancers were told they'd never be able to find work because of their height or shape.

[@Albinojackrussel]

​​@@SnappyDragonI feel like the ballet an isn't ideal example because men and women don't have cross gender competition for jobs in ballet (outside of a few very niche companies doing some really cool shit). So there being higher expectations of women can be more easily put down to stiffer competition from women for roles. The industry is wildly sexist in a lot of ways, it's just not a great example of glass escalator.

[@mikeymullins5305]

If most preformers are women,why do companies choose to do shows with more men? This goes for theatre generally. Men onstage are like half or more (usually) but in auditions it'll be 3/4 women or more. It's not a accident. It's a choice to not prioritize female roles. (This is especially unacceptable in amateur theatre)

[@FlybyStardancer]

Ah yes, a dragon rant. Gotta be one of my favorite types of video! lol 💜💜💜💜💜💜💜💜💜💜💜💜

[@SnappyDragon]

So glad my ranting remains enjoyable 💚💚💚

[@rae·tetza1999]

I really appreciate the perspective of Worth as a product of his generation's glass elevator! I already knew about Worth from the perspective of watching Cathy Hay delve into & somewhat make her own Worth reproduction, until her own research & people on the internet caused her to realize she could no longer ethically make the gown. She was very much concerned about how he got all the glory, but the actual crafts people who beaded, sewed, & embroidered… their names were lost to history. The fact that many of them were women, or from British rulled India was definitely mentioned. The fact that many of his gowns were designed for balls in British rulled india, that sole purpose was to remind the people who exactly was in charge. Was a huge factor.(All of this is from my memory, so I'm sure I'm missing details) It was the beginning of a huge shift in how she did things & chose projects on her channel. •💗•

[@fire23fairy]

Came to the comments to see if anyone else would mention Cathy and the peacock dress! It was a bit jarring when she announced that she would be abandoning the project that had consumed her for over a decade, but I appreciated her willingness to take criticism and consider the ethics of her project.

[@PahaKakku]

The glass escalator is all over the current, modern knitting / yarn craft scene, too. The white male identifying designers get a fast lane to the top, they are seen as more competent, and rise to positions of power fast.

[@saraquill]

The book “To Marry an English Lord” is pretty bad when it comes to gushing over Worth. He’s the only named designer, they say his fashion reign started much earlier than in reality, and that he’s the only one “genius” enough to make a design choice that was part of the overall japonism trend. In other words, Japanese people use asymmetry for centuries without comment, but lauded when Worth did it.

[@SnappyDragon]

Oof, noted! I hadn't heard of that book and now I feel like I'm not missing much.

[@saraquill]

@ It’s the historical non fiction equivalent of a gossip column.

[@maryeckel9682]

"The House of Mirth" by Edith Wharton mentions Doucet, but not Worth.

[@ThatgeekNolan]

This isn’t an era that I know much about, but I just wanted to thank you for this video and your explanation of the glass escalator. I learned a lot.

[@SnappyDragon]

Thanks! I hope I did a good job summing it up, I was definitely learning along with writing as far as the formal studies.

[@ThatgeekNolan]

@ it made me rethink a lot of things about the history of different occupations. You’re doing a great job and I really appreciate your content ❤️

[@catherinecrawford2289]

Thank you so much for this:when I began to study dress as a kid, it was Worth I heard of more than any other and I read a big old book about him and studied fashion plates of his gowns, etc. I am so glad to hear his notoriety questioned in this way because so often it was the tireless self-promoters who get all the press, even when that press is 150 years ago!

[@EmL-kg5gn]

I think the glass escalator and the power dynamics it creates are so formative to what we see as normal because of its prevalence in teaching/education… It’s so opposite to being a woman in a male dominated field - there’s some I’d love to join but I won’t because I care about my safety. Also I want to hear more about mantua-makers!!!!

[@SnappyDragon]

I dug into the story with mantua-makers a bit more in the video about how loungewear changed fashion! It was such an important change for the industry.

[@EmL-kg5gn]

@ I loved that video!!! I might rewatch it some time!

[@jeannegreeneyes1319]

Thank you for discussing the Glass Escalator phenomenon and the Worth worship. 💚💗💚

[@miri2810]

lol, youtube automatically translates titles (and descriptions, ugh!) now, and the title I saw was "Wert". I was confused for a second. Great video :)

[@TranquilityChiba]

I will admit I tend to ro look at "newer" fashion and am bias to what I've seen in person but i absolutely LOVE mary todd Lincoln's dresses (what I saw in person). Thank you for introducing her main designer Elizabeth Keckley

[@mx.noname4710]

Neat, it’s always good to learn things and to challenge your previous learning. Thanks, V!

[@SnappyDragon]

You're so welcome!

[@csm92459]

Is it possible that Edith Wharton's references to the House of Worth in books like "The Age of Innocence" and "The House of Mirth" played a role in the elevation of Worth above other designers? Wharton's novels define those eras for generations of Americans. When the characters in "The Age of Innocence" discuss other character's "standing order" with Worth that is going to resonate.

[@SnappyDragon]

Perhaps so! Although it seems like Worth started bringing in wealthy American clients fairly early in his business, and there are quotes that he found them good clients to work with (by his standards).

[@csm92459]

@@SnappyDragon Thanks for the consideration. I was unclear--I didn't mean Worth relied on Wharton for his business, only that the repeated readings of the "definitive" novels describing the era using "House of Worth" as the de facto definition of "high society couture circa 1870-WWI" created the false impression he was the one and only. Readers looked no further. (Hope that clarifies? Not sure it did.)

[@maryeckel9682]

Doucet is Lily Bart's house of choice.

[@csm92459]

@ My mistake. AoI, Customs of the Country, and short stories are really my favorites. I mentioned Mirth because more people know it. Its been years since I read it/I should have checked. Thanks you. I'm all for scholarship, even in KZbin comments. Out of curiosity--if you know the novel well-if Lily likes Doucet could that be one of Wharton's "if you know you know" type conventions? Would Doucet's look be more type appropriate with others in the novel referring to and wearing Worth? I'd be interested. Thanks.

[@AragornElessar]

I've looked up some of Elizabeth Keckley's extant work and would love to see them irl. There's an 1862 green plaid day dress of her's I'd so make and wear.

[@SnappyDragon]

I'm so happy we have some of her work preserved! And the research I've seen about why her dresses were popular makes me even more curious-- apparently she was considered one of the best at fitting garments to a person.

[@vintagejones1372]

Male servers will earn 10-15% more in tips than females in the same restaurant. Servers in high-end restaurants are almost exclusively male.

[@kirstenpaff8946]

To be fair, the fashion history community tends to go through trends and phases where everyone gets really into a particular era or style (remember when everyone was making over the top 1830s gowns?). I think Worth is just one of those trends.

[@SnappyDragon]

I agree as far as the KZbin sphere goes, but the pattern of exalting Worth seems present it more academic spheres of fashion history, including museum exhibitions. Those don't normally follow the trends that the costuming community does.

[@DanielleStJohn]

There is another designer of the era that is have discovered and love, but it's another man, Émile Pingat.

[@panicmerchants]

Fantastic work very interesting and thought provoking.

[@SnappyDragon]

Glad you think so!

[@zombiedoggie2732]

I am going by memory but there is this gorgeous early 1900s gown by a designer with the last name "Beer?" Beautiful piece. Also as for drape and technique she used, I find the designer Madeline Vionett much more interesting. I think I may of misspelled her last name.

[@maryeckel9682]

Gustave Beer! He was more exclusive and IMO more creative in his designs.

[@SamAntyx]

Honestly, I feel like Worth's designs were always a bit heavy-handed for my tastes. Never really cared for their gowns. I can't understand upholding a designer just because of reputation. If I think the clothes are ugly, I'm not going to give that designer my attention or praise--modern or historical. I understand that Worth created a legacy for himself, but I don't think the value of the art should hang on the idea of a legacy. Especially when nearly all "great legacies" are built on the back of unpaid or underpaid laborers who garnered no public credit for their accomplishments and contributions.

[@SnappyDragon]

I've never really *disliked* his designs, at least not any more or less than any other historical dresses. But yeah, the issues with legacy really soured me on how they get treated.

[@seraphinasullivan4849]

Not a dress so it may not count, but not Worth either, as far as I know: a stocking from 1870 at the Met that has a fun little cherry pattern. I'm running a Call of Cthulhu Down Darker Trails campaign set in 1870 and one of my players decided their character, one of the richest people in the world because they maxed out credit rating in character creation, wears a pair of them

[@SnappyDragon]

Honestly who cares if it's not a dress, that sounds so adorable! I love interesting stockings.

[@tombombadil0449]

Another great example of man taking over a industry is the brewing industry. Women used to dominate brewing by owning their own breweries until the industrial revolution.

[@SnappyDragon]

I would start keeping a list of industries but I feel like it would quickly get too long to handle!

[@hcolleen534]

Some facts regarding the glass escalator: computer science was women's work until there was money in it as it was just fancy secretarial work...but, those women were very important. Rear Admiral Grace Hopper was one of the heroes of the field, naming 'bugs' because computer errors used to be caused by bugs in the transistors...as well as Ada Lovelace (first programmer), Hedy Lamar (developed frequency hopping), Alan Turing (code breaker/coder and for a little queer rep, because intersectionality) Margaret Hamilton (lead programmer for Apollo 11....so many other women, to say nothing of the computers who worked at NASA or the LOL (little old ladies) who stitched spacesuits (many of whom had 'day jobs' sewing bras with Playtex) with such precision and wove the memory cores.... And that's just a few that I know of off the top of my head in one field....well...almost two, sort of...

[@kobaltkween]

Just wanted to say I really appreciated this critique and perspective.

[@orsino88]

For a moment, I thought you said, “the cherry on top of the crustacean cake.” I was thrilled that that was not so.

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

Never heard of the glass escalator but... yeah, as a female who trained in male dominated field, the reverse is certainly not true for the most part (though I do admit that the novelty factor of a female medieval fighter did win me a tounament once, but that's not the workplace). I think the ironwork gown is quite striking but I'd bet there are more by other people just as striking, it's just the one I've seen. And I'm not really your target demographic, the historical clothing items I see and think, "Ooh, I should make that for me" are generally the work clothes. So far there's only been one Victorian gown I've ever wanted to make for myself and it's not even actually Victorian, it's from Murdoch Mysteries (Miss Cherry's red dress from season15 episode 6, I believe). Thanks for the history lesson and some nifty jumping off points!

[@Sara-ci9bl]

Yes, yes, yes, yes!!!! Thank you for the video ❤️

[@SnappyDragon]

You're so welcome!

[@sarahwatts7152]

Lots to think about here, good video

[@SnappyDragon]

Glad you liked it!

[@spiritualtruthseeker1947]

I remember as a child being told BS by the males in my life… I was a gifted artist but I couldn’t ever be a master level artist because I was female. This was despite the fact that I was the only one with actual artistic talent in my family. It is ironic that I was told to go out of my way to praise the males in the family who were artist wannabes. They told me that if I was critical of them, I would damage their egos. When I was learning to sew at a young age, it was obvious that I had a talent for this and for clothing design. I would be told that all the best clothing designers were male and usually gay. This wasn’t a PC time, so the reasoning for this belief is too offensive to repeat. The glass escalator still a phenomenon. I am very bitter about this as I approach retirement age wondering about how my life would have been if I had been born into a more supportive family environment. My talents were “cute” and I should just paint a portrait for Uncle Fester or alter Aunt Eva’s dress like a good girl. I am not the only one here who is having memory flashbacks!

[@iupooiresa]

On a shallow note, OOOOHHHH MORE DRESSES TO LOOK UP FOR RECREATION!

[@lisam5744]

The aesthetic dresses (I think that's what it's called) during the late 1800's that were hardly structured, no corset, loose, etc. My favorite ones from that time period. I believe it coincided with the arts and crafts movement.

[@SparksArtandCosplay]

15:44 if you want to see a good historical retelling that talks about the changes in the field of computer science, I’d watch Hidden Figures. Lovely film. It shows how women’s jobs changed when the mechanical computer happened. It also talks about racial segregation and the issues there.

[@Werevampiwolf]

My grandmother was actually a computer in the 50s (accounting, specifically)

[@SnappyDragon]

High five to your grandmother!

[@reeree4968]

I really appreciate your gender disclaimers ❤😊

[@SnappyDragon]

Thank you! It's really important to me to do them, and I try to get it right.

[@TheQwuilleran]

Isn't it interesting that when men enter a field, automate and capitalize on it, it suddenly becomes acceptable, even fashionable? Whereas "women's work" is a swear word.

[@einwitzigenname585]

Well done ❤️

[@SnappyDragon]

Why thank you!

[@winterburden]

Thanks for this neat video!

[@SnappyDragon]

You're very welcome!

[@catherinejustcatherine1778]

Thank you for this.

[@pamelatarajcak5634]

As a girlie who prefers Regency, most of my dress preferences aren't Worth...lol.

[@SnappyDragon]

Heck, I love 1890s and 1900s and most of my favorite extants aren't Worth either!

[@miriamjames4140]

Someone finally said it!! 👏 thank you!! Worth is so over hyped and many of his designs are pretty meh tbh.

[@onetwothree7627]

She's a 20th century designer, but my favourite of all time is Madeleine Vionnet (the mother of bias cut).

[@themindstream]

So you mentioned Mary Lincoln and I recently learned that she was a victim of many of these male-dominated societal forces you're talking about here (and she very emphatically never used her maiden name, Todd, after Lincoln's death, for reasons that are relevant to her story). Look up the work historian Alexis Coe has written about her; it's a pretty outrageous story.

[@SnappyDragon]

Absolutely! I read about a little of the difficulties she had when researching Keckley.

[@RorysSpoonieDiaries-fh2gk]

Damn. ..... Great video

[@SnappyDragon]

Why thank you!

[@onetwothree7627]

I read about Worth in a Lousia May Alcott book lmfao

[@GreenMartha]

Heck. Yes. Thank you.

[@maryeckel9682]

Charles F was a hack compared to Jeanne Paquin. Mme Vignon was fabulous and knew how to use color, cut, and embellishments. In the US, Madame Demorest built a fashion empire! Oh, and Ada Lovelace is the mother of computers.

[@Heothbremel]

❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤

[@SnappyDragon]

💚💚💚

[@onetwothree7627]

Doesn't that happen even now? The designer gets their name on the clothing, rather than the artisans who do the sewing and embroidery and fabrication.

[@ElizabethEstervig]

Rose Bertín FTW ❤

[@RandomAFP]

ohhhh I want that purple frock

[@SnappyDragon]

The velvet one? It's gorgeous!

[@RandomAFP]

​@@SnappyDragon Yuuup. Outside my usual periods of interest but still. Puuuurple.

[@alyssadepiro40]

My grandma was a computer, comptometer.

[@AragornElessar]

I need to look up other late 19th century designers and their work.

[@dianetheone4059]

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

[@carameldare]

I love couch V.

[@SnappyDragon]

She's so much fun to write

[@angellover02171]

So, instead of making a video about Worth's competition, you decided to make this video.

[@Albinojackrussel]

+

[@matteoaroldi8146]

Sexism isn’t only the answer. You can spend hours talking about injustice, and that’s absolutely fair, but Worth’s work (or, more accurately, his atelier’s work) was EXQUISITE. The other examples shown here cannot even remotely compare.

[@SnappyDragon]

Okay, we're gonna use this as a teaching moment. Yes, Worth's atelier produced some extremely pretty dresses. How did they manage to do that, and why do we see those examples so much? Worth entered the business with a very high-end clientele built up already. He changed his client relationships to give himself more power over the design process. His dresses were extremely expensive, so fewer limits on the complexity of materials or design. And, the combination of his reputation, the labeling of the dresses, and the prominent clientele, means more of them are preserved and exhibited. Worth's atelier produced the beautiful work it did because sexism made it easier for them to do so-- and made it harder for other dressmakers to get the same resources to work with, the same opportunities to design at a high level, and the same reasons to have their work preserved and shown to us.

[@Albinojackrussel]

"Sexism isn't the only answer, it could also be that the one guy in a field otherwise entirely dominated by women for centuries was just *better*." Like, if you think women are just worse, please just own that.

[@matteoaroldi8146]

@snappydragon I understand your position, but don’t you think it’s a little undermining to reduce everything down to “sexism”? I’m a professional in a creative field, and talent in itself is not enough. Believe me, having a “high clientele”, and maintaining it, is not an easy task, not at all. Worth revolutionised also the way in which the fashion system worked, he is accounted even for having collaborated to create the “system” itself. Not everybody is destined to be successful, he just happened to be, I guess? I’m sorry if my discourse is a little clunky but English is not my first language.