The last device destroyed a rope

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Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 38

@HowNOT2 4 ай бұрын

Chart with our results at 07:39 We are the first to get Tom's next batch of books in a few days - pre-order at hownot2.com/pendley Z2Rs are back in stock hownot2.com/products/z2r We stock Captos at hownot2.com/cmc

@luuk777w 4 ай бұрын

Is test nr 8 correct? 0.42 seems so low compared to 2.06 1:1

@jonathanmayer1247 4 ай бұрын

Hey, I think it would be great, if you could test wether a fall on a carabiner, which pinches the rope to the rock, when fallen on, could be dangerous. Is the pinching (when the carabiner is on a flatter part, and it is steeper afterwards) so strong that the belayer doesn't get any force? Could the fall factor be really bad, especially if you are 2 feet over the biner and the belayer takes in slack? The texture of the rock would make a difference. Or does the pinching lead to the rock sizing the rope? Would be a cool video. Cheers, love your good work.

@bkl91 4 ай бұрын

As a Rescue tech that specializes in high angle rope rescue, I really appreciate all these new gear videos. We actually built our own slack table to test out our gear because of you!

@memeyou241 4 ай бұрын

As a broom teChniTIon, I really appreciate these videos too.

@bonzey1171 4 ай бұрын

I do hope you're doing well enough with the store to make all this worth it, you provide a lot of great information for users of rope of all kinds. Thanks Jenksy, much appreciated

@dawntreader7079 4 ай бұрын

fluted sheaves are standard and have been standard on sailboats forever, both in passive clutches and blocks. they do not destroy ropes. the forces on a 40 foot boat's main sheet in 15 knots is much more than a climber can generate, our ropes last a long time and the damage that causes failure is eventually chaff, salt or sun. or all.

@spacetomato1020 2 ай бұрын

What is this equipment that sailboats use? Do you have a name or better description so that I could do more research?

@ztungaz 4 ай бұрын

ropes are supposed to be under tension when measuring their diameter. EN standard is 10kg tension for single ropes....not sure about double, twin, or static ropes. this is why your calipers always read fatter than what the rope label says. pretty sure weight per length is also supposed be under tension...

@Knot-orious 4 ай бұрын

I'm autistic, so I had to verify this. Here's what I found. The very last sentence is the most important and relevant one... "According to EN 12385-4, the tolerance range for measuring the diameter of a rope under tension is between -0% and +5% of the nominal diameter for ropes with a nominal diameter of 8 mm or more. For smaller ropes, the tolerance range is usually higher. For example, ropes with a nominal diameter of 3-7 mm may have a higher tolerance range. The diameter tolerance is usually specified as a percentage of the nominal diameter. For example, if a rope has a nominal diameter of 28 mm and a tolerance of +2% to +5%, then the measured diameter could be between 28.56 mm and 29.12 mm. ***In critical cases, it's recommended to measure the effective diameter of a rope while it's loaded with 5% of its calculated breaking strength."***

@wyattroncin941 4 ай бұрын

@@Knot-orious so that would be ~1kn on a typical ~22kn climbing rope. That's a lot higher than i would have thought, but 5% as a rule does make sense

@Knot-orious 4 ай бұрын

@@wyattroncin941 And for a 32kN static arborist rope (the kind that I climb on), 5% would be about 1.6kN. It definitely makes sense since 1Kn-1.6kN is roughly equivalent to the weight of one to two heavy climbers. For reference, 1kN is equal to 224lb force. My guess is that the 5% of the ropes MBS was chosen due to a) it representing a value that is roughly equivalent to the maximum amount of force applied to most climbing ropes (a climber plus their gear or hauling up gear bags), and b) because 5% of MBS is almost always enough force to ensure that a rope (and its core and sheath for example, if it's kernmantle) will be reduced down to its true diameter. My guess is that, beyond 5% of MBS, the rope's diameter likely either doesn't get any smaller or it maybe gets a tiny bit smaller, but to a negligible degree. I hope this makes sense to anyone who actually takes the time to read this comment! I'm obviously speculating here, at the end, but it makes sense to me! =-D

@zacharysmith6417 4 ай бұрын

Can you test the capto on the drop tower as a peak force limiting progress capture device for top rope solo on hyperstatic and/or dynamic ropes?

@davidp.ritchie6526 4 ай бұрын

I don’t know if you have already covered this but I’d be interested to see how it compares to the ct cric and where you see the difference in the style of application for both devices.

@kevinwatson3190 4 ай бұрын

I imagine it would act just like a micro attraction as it is a toothed cam device. I would imagine it would de-sheath at close to 6KN.

@jonathanl2567 4 ай бұрын

Would love to see the petzl IDs tested. I know several non-professional rappelers who use the IDs as their main rappel device due to its high safety design and idiot proof features, myself included. Would be great to see any potential points of failure in that device.

@EricNietofilms 4 ай бұрын

nice video! very helpfull to understand our gear and new gears. It would be very cool to be able to buy this new edition of the rescue book in Europe, especificslly from spain 😳

@lewisrichards6572 4 ай бұрын

Awesome peace of gear!

@michaelsimpson9779 4 ай бұрын

Nice work Ryan

@gidiweinstein9784 4 ай бұрын

can you pls do a cut ressitance test for ropes...uncharted territory and the biggest cause of fatalities apparently... thanks again for all the great content jinx!

@jason.b896 4 ай бұрын

I'm sure I'm wrong because nobody else has brought it up, but isn't that a 2 to 1, not 3 to 1?

@kelixfernandez2547 4 ай бұрын

Will be nice to see a comparison between the cmc capto vs. petzl rescuescender with petzl rollclipz

@kevinwatson3190 4 ай бұрын

He already did a rescuecender video he shared a clip of it at the beginning

@sonofnone116 4 ай бұрын

Capto > rollclip (or single pulley + carabiner) + rescuescender. Just got a capto at work (CS rescue tech) & been playing with it. Super quick & easy, and it feels super quality. Also works as a hand ascender, kind of, for rope walking (takes some getting used to), & i like it better than an ascender + rollclip for Rad'ing

@carlosarturobernalm9422 17 күн бұрын

I Really want to buy your Powered ascender

@adamnash2009 4 ай бұрын

Good job

@maplestarna4279 4 ай бұрын

can you test the ct cric?

@ExploringCabinsandMines 4 ай бұрын

Do a movie review on the best climbing video's, Is the Iger sanction realistic?

@kadmow 4 ай бұрын

"man load" gear slipping at 300-500 kg or even 1000 kg (9810kN) isn't a problem really... Destroying gear is a problem - tearing people in half is even worse (reasons for manually operated and actuated (muscle power) man hauling equipment - powered winches are very dangerous without adequate limits and controls.