Master

Outstanding❤

Clever :-)

Got to love those Starrett #98's. I picked up an 8" from a tool seller at a flea market several years ago.

Oh yeah, the T handle is a great thing - especially those that have a strong spring and a ball or similar design to give resistance to the sliding of the rod... I don`t like a free floating rod, but a rod that stays in place during spinning or even when you extend it out for max torque - oh yeah, those are good! A good wrench is great, but generally, a socket and a breaker bar or a socket and a T-handle are so much more versatile and effective(and less abusive towards both the nut(in majority of cases) and the operator...) in most cases... Also, imbus sockets, the large ones make for excellent custom keys and wrenches when you have access to a lathe and/or a mill - depending on what you need to make outta them... The triple-square sockets also fit the square headed bolts on machines and machine components/accessories(vises, toolposts and similar) - being just a star made by three overlapping but offset squares... That make a long triple-square socket with a long extension and a t-handle an ideal vice tightening mechanism, unlike those dreck cnc solutions that people buy into... My Rohm mill-vise nicely fits the long 18 triplesq. socket... Best regards! Steuss

Toolmakers make tools, that is what we do..

Just added a sub as this channel looks v good.

👍🏻

How about just saw the corners off and then turn it?

People don't talk about steady rests because they are obsessed with the spindle bore of a lathe. They buy oversize lathes that allow them to shove 120mm shafts through the headstock. Unfortunately they don't reallise they loose control of the shaft. The other issue is the lathe is then, generally to big for their more typical work so it sits there underutilized taking up capital and consuming opex. Thanks for sharing.

Handy little universal wrench.

I always use two hose clamps to retain keys when I am turning. Covering them with tape will reduce the entanglement hazard.

When the time comes to straighten them, do you use a torch or a press?

That will make you pucker a little.

Thanks for the answer video.

So you’re refurbishing these shafts? Will you be showing that work?

Oof - has to be kind of wild to be stood next to that. 👍

"Straighten the shaft". How many thou runout allowable on the 17 foot shafts? TIA

Fascinating setup! What in the world would you be machining that would require turning a 17-foot-long chunk of metal?!

Also known as a cat's head.

Yep. The 100ths is never on the side I want. 😆

Great info here. 👍

Benno - Your Sider Idea is Slick . - you da man -- Jim

What do you do when you need to turn hot rolled or not round and you need to cut it round for the steady rest, but you need the steady rest to cut it?

Great simple cure ! Cheers 👍

Benno - Great Video ! No Drips - No Runs - No Errors . I became concerned when I saw the tubing . Because of the thin walI , I thought that it could impact the Burnishing . Your results were excellent - thanks for the education . I think that I will make you contestant 5 - Jim

The burnishing tool could benefit from having the moving parts enclosed to keep bits from entering where the ball rolls on the bearing. It could hold a reservoir of oil in the area.

Very nice work sir

😂

Great solution! Loved it. 👍

Perfect!

Great video! 👍

Here is one type you may like to try out your investigations on parts with angles. - 'How to burnish contours using this unique tool.'

Very nice work sir

Awesome ❤

Nice follow up!

Benno - Excellent Video . It appears that my Ten Cent Burninshing Tool can make a Million Dollar difference. Like I always say " From Junk to Jewelry " I want you to know that I'm humble . I'm not just another pretty face . -- Jim

Thanks for these details tests. I have been aware of Jims product, nevertheless it is really helpful to see good comparisons of this type.

Some nice information you've gathered here. Does burnishing alter the size of the diameter? I've never done any burnishing work myself but I'd imagine it would alter the size, but not as expected. I'd guess that 15 thou you've moved in by isn't actually reducing the shaft diameter by that amount?

Benno - I'm getting excited ! It's like waiting for a child to be born . -- Jim

I laughed out loud at this when you panned back. Fun video. That sheared off blade is impressive - very nice look at a typical material surface from that kind of break. Will you be repairing the blade and showing that?

Very nice work sir

As far as deep slotting goes we pretty much run whatever is handy, 2,3,4 flute etc. I find you have to run 4 flute shallower otherwise they blow up recutting chips, you can definitely tell a difference running two flute. I would run a fine tooth roughing end mill with air or coolant blast to clear chips and finish with a standard end mill. Since I started running CNC I run 4 flute full depth with a 10% step over & two flute for slotting up to 1/2D. That is pretty much max for full dia slotting for any endmill. I hate 316.

Benno - The inside of my Nose looks better than that Propeller . But my Nose dosen't vibrate . -- Jim

4:00 re crossslide allignment - have a read of conneleys "machine tool reconditioning" or Slessengers "Testing machine tools" for an explanation - a pdf's available online

Thanks I leaned something

It moved 20 thou over 5" so 20/5=4 thou per inch

Coaxial indicators are one of the most fun set up tools there is.

Geez…similar triangles .020/5 = x/34 X= (34/5) .020 X ~7(.020) Move tailstock .140” away from you No?

Get a roughing carbide endmill. Guhring makes a series with Firex coating that I really like. Then just have at least air blast on it, and do your slots in incremental step downs, 50-100 thou at a time depending on material and diameter. Once it's all roughed out, come back with a finishing endmill to make it nice and bring it to size.