The Long Block -Building A High Performance 1968cc Vw 74mm Stroker Engine- Part 2 of 3

[@V8N8T]

Far out looks like it went together nice and smooth! Nice work Gary!

[@VWJawbreaker]

@@V8N8T yes sir it sure did! Took a bit to get everything to okay nice though lol

[@swmoboy]

Way above my pay grade, but this is how you learn. I enjoy your videos.

[@VWJawbreaker]

@@swmoboy I’m glad you’re enjoying them!

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Hi Gary, love watching and learing more about these motors. Like I've said before not new to these classics just new to the engine build. Got new valve guides coming and by my measurements should go in with the required interference fit. 0015 but will measure everything carefully before installing them.

[@VWJawbreaker]

We all have something to learn from each other! Glad you got the parts on the way!

[@WestGeorgiaAirCooled]

I like this little stroker build. I am a big fan of the 1904, and this is it but a bit of an upgrade. You know cause 92/94 thick walls are fricken SWEET!. I will say 2 things that I would have liked to have seen and I am going to mention them just for discussion and such but please don't take it as a "I know better". I learn something new in each of these videos, from you, EZ, Mike, whoever....so just sharing something I have thought about. I actually went through a great deal of trouble measuring each of the spacers in my spacer kits for cylinders and they were never dead on, each in the package was usually different. Additionally, the silicone that you used as a gasket, actually increases the deck ever so slightly. I prefer to measure with a micrometer before, and then after to confirm that the deck height is where it should be. Then you know the precise numbers, as compression is directly correlated(as you mentioned). Also, just to mention for anyone that may have wondered, you would adjust the CC's of the heads to accomplish the compression goals. Deck height SHOULD be set to as close to .040 or slightly over as possible. You CAN go looser, in the .045-.060 range but I can tell you that you will have a better running engine with a tighter deck. So ideally for those following along you would figure all of this out prior, and order your heads with the correct CC combustion chambers for your application. You can also modify them if you need to shave a few CC's, but you can only go one direction. The shims on the rockers...that crap makes me uncomfortable. Maybe its unfounded and unwarranted, but if it where Noah's build I would have done cut to length pushrods instead of the shims. Oh, and you could have just removed the inner spring! The outers are just single hi revs, unless it was a 650, but I understand replacing them just because. New springs never hurt in a rebuild.

[@VWJawbreaker]

Dude we all have different perspectives and tricks so I never take things to heart. That’s how we learn from one another. Hell, I’ve said it countless times that I’m not an expert. I agree with you completely on the shims. I’ve never seen them be what they are supposed to be out of the package and I’ve seen the same shims in a package vary a few thousandths between the shims. I have mixed emotions on the rocker shims. I’ve ran them a few times and never had an issue. This guy also knows his engine stuff but prefers not to mess with them and likes to pass it onto me lol Plus it gives me a video so it’s a win win for the both of us. I’m just not a fan of those swivel foot adjusters, I prefer the stock or ratio sweep style. But that’s what the kit came with so that’s what he wanted to run. This guy has been into the hobby for a very long time, probably longer than you and I combined. So he gets what he wants lol

[@brenton-lucas]

Great video, mate. I'm looking forward to the next one 👍👍👍

[@VWJawbreaker]

Appreciate you being here 🤙

[@ineverhadthemoney7857]

1 off the very best engine builder

[@VWJawbreaker]

I appreciate that but I could name many more that are more talented than me.

[@allisonroe-dp6bs]

Love the posh new graphics 😊❤

[@VWJawbreaker]

Thank you!

[@HubertusSchaper]

Hi Gary, Interesting rebuild from short block to big block.well nice video for hose who might do this kind of engine building, how ever Im still prefer my Diesel engine, I just jumpet in your channel again for knowing you & well .Looks like you have an great time with the building of this engine my friend🇺🇸.Greetings,Hubertus-🙏🏻🇳🇴🇳🇱☮👍🏻🍀🇺🇸

[@VWJawbreaker]

Thank you Hubertus. I’d love to dive into a diesel one of these days.

[@HubertusSchaper]

@@VWJawbreaker Would be nice Gary,looking forward for that one.Greetings.Hubertus

[@vintage76vipergreenBeetle]

Great tip on using the head nuts, on the rocker shafts. Ezgz mention that, on one of his videos years ago.

[@VWJawbreaker]

You’re probably right, I think I saw that after I had the issue I mentioned about 5 years ago.

[@matthewchilders5263]

Another great video. Thanks Gary

[@VWJawbreaker]

@@matthewchilders5263 no, thank you!

[@briancole7935]

Another great video! I'm still wanting a vw, but I don't think I've convinced my wife yet. 😄 Whether I get one or not, I'm still a fan.

[@VWJawbreaker]

Don't upset the better half... lol

[@timswitzer792]

Thanks Gary!!!

[@VWJawbreaker]

Thanks for being here 🤙

[@deanrobinson3717]

There’s soooo many things I have learned from you, how the fk I rebuilt Clive’s engine in lockdown and it still runs astounds me. Cheers for sharing the amazing knowledge you have Gary, much appreciated

[@VWJawbreaker]

The fact the videos have helped you makes the work on my end worth every minute. Can't thank you enough for the constant support and friendship!

[@douglasbarnhart3324]

Thanks Gary awesome video.

[@VWJawbreaker]

Thank you sir

[@DemopVWgarage]

Great stuff mate, the gene berg deep sump I got had a ton of casting sand in side it, lucky we saw it before it was too late but the motor had to come apart to double check it inside..

[@VWJawbreaker]

Thanks dude. We flushed the daylights out of this case and sump on a parts cleaner then I flushed it in the sink as well. This case and sump was that mystery tear down from several months back.

[@69bajaoutdoors]

Tight work sir!!!

[@VWJawbreaker]

Appreciate it!

[@ChipsAndSparksGarage]

Nice build Gary👍

[@VWJawbreaker]

Thank you sir.

[@benshore7357]

Looking good 🎉 nothing is more satisfying than putting together an engine 🎉

[@VWJawbreaker]

You got that right! I love the work that goes into it.

[@OwhyeeVdub]

Nice video!

[@VWJawbreaker]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@hummv8]

ANOTHER GREAT VID!! looking forward for next week.

[@VWJawbreaker]

Thanks again!

[@charlesloar3210]

Great Video! Detail and information are the best.

[@VWJawbreaker]

Thanks, I appreciate that!

[@thebinderbuilder]

Get some!

[@VWJawbreaker]

I need some pizza….

[@thebinderbuilder]

@@VWJawbreaker 😅🤣😂

[@cjjones1556]

A other nice one Gary. Are you sure you put the #1 outer wrist pin on? I think there was an edit right there so I hoping you did. ✌️

[@VWJawbreaker]

Nice catch on the edit. I fought that one for some reason lol Wrist pin clip did make it in that side 🤙

[@christianmccollum1028]

Again, this is the engine I'm going build and put in my splitty. Invaluable information, man. One question: In your opinion, would 8mm case studs be a better choice for 8:1 compression?

[@VWJawbreaker]

8 or 10mm, doesn’t really matter imo. This case had 10mm studs so that’s what we used.

[@jeffgoodbar]

What size head studs are you using? I have a block with 10mm iam wanting to bore to 92mm and build a 1968..Just curious if i will be ok and that size bore will not cut into the case savers? Thanks in advance.Enjoying the videos..😊

[@VWJawbreaker]

@@jeffgoodbar you’ll be fine, this case is using 10mm studs and case savers.

[@jeffgoodbar]

@VWJawbreaker thank you for replying and the great info..Thanks again..🤘

[@thebinderbuilder]

I would think dual springs are better for more clamping force, and higher RPMs. No?

[@VWJawbreaker]

Yes but depending on the cam. If the cam doesn’t call for it, the dual springs will just wear out the valve train faster especially valve guides.

[@thebinderbuilder]

@@VWJawbreaker but... but... but....POWWWAHHHHH!

[@VWJawbreaker]

@@thebinderbuilder 😂😂

[@Markeymagicbus]

I have seen you mention it, do you get you balance your cranks, pulley and clutch?

[@VWJawbreaker]

I don’t because I’d have to ship it all out west. Plus most everything I build isn’t high rpm race stuff.

[@Markeymagicbus]

@@VWJawbreakerthanks so much for the reply.

[@randybonomi1198]

Are they A or B pistons? And what length rods?

[@VWJawbreaker]

That was covered in part 1….. A pistons and 5.394” rods.

[@gtman4588]

What size engine build would you say (moving from a 1600 upwards) do you need to go to running an external oil cooler, living in Southern California?

[@VWJawbreaker]

That’s a loaded question honestly. You can build a higher cc engine and keep it stockish and nit need an external oil cooler. When you get up to higher compression due to the cam, heads, etc then I’d recommend running one with an oil thermostat and the dog house oil cooler. Engines should be built as a combo and that combo will dictate other things. Worse case, plumb it for full flow with an external oil filter and add an external oil cooler if you need it.

[@vr6mars]

What size rockers??

[@VWJawbreaker]

Stock ratio, 1.1:1

[@gacomputertech]

@@VWJawbreaker The video indicates 1:25s, which puts lift @490 which is great for this combo, though supposed to use dual springs when adding 1:25s with W110, but i wouldn't use duals either unless racing. Might put a ~30 shim on the valve spring for n additional few pounds of pressure, depends on the mood of your foot

[@VWJawbreaker]

@@gacomputertech package indicated 1.1’s however I’ve seen them not be exact. That being said, the reading can vary depending on where you take the reading from in my experience. At the very top like I did, I seem to get exaggerated numbers.

[@vintage76vipergreenBeetle]

Did you get a new camera?

[@VWJawbreaker]

No sir, same old junk I’ve been using lol

[@vintage76vipergreenBeetle]

@VWJawbreaker Must be the lighting than. 🤔 Looks a lot clear,from up here in New England

[@VWJawbreaker]

@@vintage76vipergreenBeetle I have been trying to get the lighting better.

[@celiaketley5496]

Great video, very informative. I have a couple of VW videos on KZbin that may amuse you !

[@VWJawbreaker]

Thank you! I'll check it out!

[@ivocosta206]

You to order good no that to marke. Brazil

[@VWJawbreaker]

Sorry man, I don't understand.

[@williamerentfro9543]

The larger the displacement, more velocity will exist. Dialing down the compression ratio deletes the reason.. As the expansion in velocity, the better value. Might as well take a 36 horse power engine and give It Aviation fuel.. Ass backwards.. Gary.. if you want to modify an engine, why try to tone it down? Makes No sense..

[@VWJawbreaker]

I hear what you’re saying. The cam calls for 8.2-8.75. I spoke with other builders as well and knowing that this could go into a bus, which has less cooling capabilities than a bug, and by request of the owner, we decided to keep the compression ratio slightly lower so the engine would run cooler. Plus he didn’t want to deal with an external oil cooler and all that. Again cam spec 8.2-8.7, we landed at 8.1. It’ll still give him way more power than a mild 1641.

[@V8N8T]

He could have set the compression ratio at 7.5-1 and it would still have plenty of torque and power, maybe down a couple ponies compared to if it was higher but it could run the cheap gas without worries and run cooler. It's also time vs money, are you going to spend extra money on getting the heads flycut to raise the compression .1 to be within the cam card or take deck height out and risk kissing a valve. It'll be a sweet runner just wait and see

[@VWJawbreaker]

@@V8N8T well said my friend.