The Most Accurate Lathe Chuck - Shop Made Tools

[@wyliemacbean1157]

While I do not have your ability just yet to make such a lovely piece, you have such a calm voice and I was captivated from the very beginning and enjoyed every minute of this video. I am looking forward to learning more from you, thank you very much. Cheers.

[@theoutbackshed]

Wow, thank you! Cheers Steve O

[@georgedreisch2662]

While I actually have a degree of contempt for 5C collets, they do have the advantage of gripping at the extreme front of the collet, versus, ER collets, that grip along the entire length of the collet, and can be damaged / sprung, by attempting to hold shorter stock, that leaves a portion of the ER collet unsupported. I’ve also done a spindle mounted ER-40 collet holder, but, think people should be aware of this limitation, when deciding on the method of work holding for a specific task.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment, great point.

[@PeregrineBF]

5C collets can also take collet stops, which ER collets can't. That's useful for facing multiple parts to the same length. Not by any means impossible to do that on an ER collet, but slower.

[@georgedreisch2662]

@@PeregrineBF good point. Recently, moded my #3 & #4 MT - ER-40’s by making threaded stops to that affect, as both had a 12-1.75 thread in the MT shank. Needed to be tapped through, and made the appropriately threaded stops / rods.

[@thepagan5432]

Nicely done. During my apprenticeship starting in 1971, we were turning, milling, drilling, etc cast iron and would end up like chimney sweepers, black faces, necks and hands. The chuck should prove very handy, I'm retired now, but can honestly say that engineering was the best thing for me. My two brothers also went into engineering, it's in the blood. Great post, thank you 👍

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment.

[@scroungasworkshop4663]

Wow, I have so much to learn. What a brilliant outcome, well done SteveO. Cheers, Stu.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment. Cheers SteveO

[@t0mn8r35]

Interesting project and well narrated.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment, and for the compliment. Cheers Steve O

[@MattysWorkshop]

How’d I miss this video, that’s a great build with a brilliant result, top job mate, cheers

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks Matty, much appreciated. Cheers Steve O

[@alanshomeworkshop]

Interesting video and a good re-purposing of a surplus faceplate. An ER40 collet chuck is really useful when machining small diameter work pieces on a larger lathe. Thanks for sharing.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment Alan.

[@kerinbaker6687]

Thanks

[@theoutbackshed]

Thank you very much. Greatly appreciated. Cheers Steve O

[@jeff1176]

This was impressive, nice job!

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment. Cheers SteveO

[@jasonhull5712]

Love the scallops around the edge. Looks great. 👍 👍

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks 👍

[@caploader111]

ER collets are good for holding tools because they grip harder. 5c is good for work holding because they have a thread at the back for a work stop, and they are faster to clamp and unclamp.

[@mr.b2232]

Nicely done.👍😎

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment. Cheers SteveO

[@edsmachine93]

Very nice job. Certainly a nice project. The whole process was nice. Definitely a very nice upgrade to your lathe. Thanks for sharing. Have a great day.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thank you very much!

[@blitzkrueg07]

Seeing in the comments there is alot of interest and confusion in collets and how they grip. Haas has a video out about different collets and the advantages and disadvantages. Very informative because of this video i switched over to an er40 collet on my cnc lathes and tossed the 5c collets and solved alot of problems.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment. I'm going to replicate this project with a 5C chuck. I'll then be able to do some comparisons. I'll have a look at the HAAS video, thanks. Cheers. Steve O

[@seefair]

An interesting way to add collets to an old lathe. Very helpful for me. Watching you deal with the cast iron was nice. But to second one of your commenters: I hate SS screws: they somehow strip without warning compared to high quality "alloy steel" screws, and when they are gummed/rusted into an old assembly, I find them much harder to to get out in one piece. They just don't have the "feel" that tells you when they are about to go. You do nice work, both on the machine and with the video editing. No baloney.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment. I took the advice from the previous commenter and changed the cap screws to hardened steel. I needed to recalibrate it and got a better result. You can see that in the sequel. Thanks for the compliment on my work and the editing, much appreciated. Cheers Steve O

[@wizrom3046]

Beautiful result, the finished part looks expensive. 👍 Re; the final 4 way adjustment; it looked in the video that the seats the 6 caphead bolts seat onto are conical (maybe the seat was produced with a drill bit?) I think if they are conical (and also there seems to be limited clearance around each caphead) this is probably not allowing the chuck to center properly. Or is pulling the chuck in line with the conical feature, which upsets your adjustment. If you cut those seats as flat bottom, then put a flat thick washer in there with room to move, then the chuck coukd be centrered. Anyway it's just a thought, that might not be it at all.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment. Your observations are correct. I previous viewer made the same comment and I went back and flat milled the bottom of the cap screw seats. The holes are large enough as the chuck only has 0.5mm of movement which is 0.25mm each side of centre and that is enough to bring the chuck into alignment. The final result of

[@tates11]

5c collets also grip along their entire length. When a nominal size bar is used the bore is parallel and the mating tapers match precisely when clamped. How the collet closes is irrelevant before clamping.

[@DJMateo99]

Are you saying 5c have a slight taper so when they close theyre parallel along the whole collet?

[@tates11]

@@DJMateo99 the video stated that they grip on the front, inferring that the bore can taper. I believe the bore stays parallel, only springing out briefly as the part is inserted. Then remains parallel through clamping. I would say that the collets are ground concentric all over when solid. Then split afterwards, some may spring open and some may spring inwards. When clamped with a nominal bar they return exactly to the geometry when originally ground.

[@apache16492]

​@tates11 when a nominal size bar is clamped is the key part, though. If you're clamping a bar that's ever so slightly smaller, a 5C collet only clamps at the nose, and if it's slightly larger, only at the back. This is because it is only split from one side, so the pads hinge around the base of the slot. An ER collet closes evenly at the front and back, as it is split from both ends, and has opposing tapers. This means that an undersize or oversize part will still clamp across the full length. It's still less contact than using a nominally-sized bar, as you only get line contact instead of full surface contact, but that's still way better than effectively point contact if you are only holding with the very front or very back of a 5C.

[@tates11]

@@apache16492 ​ I appreciate the difference between the 5c & the ER ( extended range ) collets. ER were developed to grip a range of sizes whereas 5c are for nominal sizes. Using 5c for non standard sizes is not advised although small deviations can be catered for without issue. Driving the a 5c collet into a matching taper will always keep the tapers aligned & therefore the bore parallel. Alternatively, clamping on a parallel rod will naturally set the tapers precisely to the female taper. Any deviation is taken up in the collet leaves which is why they are so long to allow bow, twist & flex, they are not rigid hinges.

[@theoutbackshed]

This is a great conversation. I agree that 5C collets are designed for nominal sized workpieces and work very well in this situation. ER collets are (for me at least) more flexible as they allow me to hold work that has already been machined and that is not of any of the 5C sizes, my 5C collets are in 1mm increments, and for the imperial ones, 1/16" increments. Usually this will not size with what I am making. The ER collet has the flexibility to be useful in these circumstances. It's interesting that ER collet chucks are being made for both tool holding and work holding. I have found on occasion, that the 5C does tent to allow a workpiece to flex around the nose of the collet, and that I believe would be due to the work piece being slightly smaller than the collet bore, and subject to a variation in holding pressure between the front and back ends of the collet, tighter at the front, and as typically working with collets is when the most accuracy is required this has been a frustration. I have not seen this problem with work held in ER collets. 5C collets really come into their own for square or hexagonal stock as the ER doesn't offer a solution (that I know of) for these shapes, but all of the arguments posed in this conversation would also apply in these circumstances. Regards, Steve O

[@seamusbolton215]

Hi there, just found your channel and looking forward to more interesting videos, thank you

[@theoutbackshed]

Welcome, great to have you on board.

[@DCT_Aaron_Engineering]

G'day Stevo. Nice work on the lathe chuck mate. Very accurate indeed. Cheers, Aaron. PS: I just subscribed to your channel too mate.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks Aaron, Nice to have you on board. Cheers SteveO

[@pneumatic00]

Beautifully done,😅 that was a work of art

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the compliment. Cheers Steve O

[@Preso58]

Nice work and good attention to detail. I'm wondering if your micron indicator was just picking up distortion from the mounting screws and push rods used to set things true.

[@theoutbackshed]

Hi Mark, thanks for the comment. I think a lot of factors can come into play when measuring such small movements. The mounts may have contributed to this as you say. Cheers Steve O

[@wadesmith9483]

Swarf…… lol gotta love those aussies! Just tickles my fancy to hear that or “right-o” Shout out to Curtis too at cutting edge engineering

[@jimsvideos7201]

Pretty safe to say your collets are now your limiting factor. Nice job of the part and the video.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment and the compliment. Cheers Steve O

[@JaenEngineering]

Nice work, definately earned a sub. One thing I have seen recommended when threading cast iron is to add a 2+ thread deep counter bore to help prevent the threads from chipping out when tightening down.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment, that's a great idea, I'll take that on board.

[@irish-simon]

fantastic bit of work and brilliant video too thank you

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment and the compliment. Cheers

[@YossiOvcharik]

Nice work! Question: at 16:42 you drill, chamfer and tap each hole. Why not drill all, then chamfer all and then tap all?

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment and what a great question. I sometimes go round each hole and drill, then chamfer on the next rotation then tap. I normally do the holes that way when depths are critical, for example when making holes for a spindle backplate with cam lock studs and keeper screws, here all depths for each must be the same. In this case, the threads go right through the casting and depths are not critical. Also, it was easier in this case to make the threaded holes this way. Hope this helps. Cheers Steve O.

[@YossiOvcharik]

@@theoutbackshed I've seen it done both ways, I think, but never understood the advantages (on manual machines) thanks!

[@temyraverdana6421]

Amazin project. Thanks for share it

[@theoutbackshed]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@Ideasite]

I’ve never understood why machinists don’t rely on the vacuum. In addition to removing swarf, the airflow cools the cutting edge. Nice demo!

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment. I use vacuum a lot but not for long or hot swarf.

[@Regular6782]

Nice work! I would flatten those counterbores with an end mill and make some hardened washers for them as well. And use a higher grade SHCS and machine the back face so they are flat against your hardened washers. That should make dialing it in easier. But I love the design, very impressive.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment, Cheers

[@SHADOW.GGG-]

how he did it helps with centering the screw

[@Regular6782]

@@SHADOW.GGG- you don't want it to influence the chuck though, the point of the system is to allow some movement. The taper at the bottom of the hole will work against that and keep pulling it into a specific position. You want it to slide across and not want to spring back

[@snowdog90210]

Excellent video. Good narration and camera work! Instant sub from me.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thank you and welcome aboard.

[@opieshomeshop]

*_I got my set tru to absolute zero. I've never seen anyone totally zero theirs. They always give up._*

[@theoutbackshed]

Good point, I'm not done with this yet. Regards Steve O

[@opieshomeshop]

@@theoutbackshed I centered my 3 jaw chuck using a gauge pin because the jaws are consistent every time. My 5C is a set tru as well but I've yet to ever need it so I've never had to center it. You may need to center each time you change your collet or any time the collet comes out or moves. Id experiment with it because I'm sure you may center it perfect once then take the collet out and replace it and you might get a different reading. Just a heads up. It all depends on how precise you want to chase those zeros.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment. I reckon that the accuracy of the workpiece is more related to the collet than the chuck spindle. Get the spindle the best you can, I have cheap collets not Hardinge or the like, But as one commentator said, if you get to zero and breath on it things will change. I don't think I'll be resetting for each collet. Cheers Steve O

[@opieshomeshop]

@@theoutbackshed It can get kind of tedious but also depends on how much accuracy you need for a given job. Still, the set tru chucks are great. I set my 3 jaw and check it every 3 months and it still reads zero.

[@theoutbackshed]

I just watched your video on the set-tru chuck, I would like o chuck like that. I'll need to make do with what I have.

[@superdfs]

Looks like a brand new TM-1740G tool room series 👍🏻

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment. It's a TM1960G

[@emilgabor88]

Hi. Nice job . The problem I see and why I didn’t make something similar is because you can’t adjust axial runout . I have seen one guy turned the ER collet chuck convex and the face plate concave so whit the 6 screws to adjust also the axial runout , then that hole contraption to be able to adjust radial … and then it will be the most accurate… but nice job .

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment. That's something I hadn't thought of. The mount I made came out accurate and the set-tru aspect allows for fine adjustment needed. I'll think about this. Cheers.

[@emilgabor88]

@@theoutbackshed yes I know that is accurate. But what if the ER is not seating properly? What if you have taper in your part that you put in the Er colet … will be errors that you can’t dial in… Don’t get me wrong, I like your work very much, we are just sharing ideas now and try to find solution for all the problems.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment. The bearing locknut would ensure that the collet is properly seated, and we don't put tapered parts in a collet chuck, they are generally held between centres. Any collet chuck must be completely clean and set carefully. A skilled machinist would ensure concentricity before turning a part.I don't believe that axial runout would be an issue with the chuck being used in the lathe that made the back plate. Any other viewers care to step in to this one?

[@johnbloomfield5705]

Hi, You have made a nice job of fitting the ER collet chuck to your larger lathe. I am however wondering why you chose to use the set-tru adjustment with all the additional work involved unless it was absolutely necessary?. All the surfaces on the collet chuck appear to be ground and so there is a pretty good chance that the o/d of the mounting is ground at the same machine setting as the bore to minimise run out. If that is the case then the bore in your modified faceplate could have been machined to a close fit on the collet chuck mounting. The bore you machined in your faceplate must, by definition, be have zero runout as it is machined in situ. The arbor you used for checking runout after machining could have been gripped in the collet chuck, mounted between centres in any of your lathes and the runout of the backplate o/d clocked. I am pretty sure the collet chuck shown right at the start is not a Crawford but a Burnerd multisize collet chuck. The Crawford multibore and Burnerd multisize collets are quite different and are not inter-changeable. On a D1-3 mounting you chuck probably takes the EC size collets. These are readily available on Ebay (albeit sometimes at ridiculous prices) though I appreciate that may not be the case outside UK and US. There is however a set for sale on Ebay.com.au at present for AU $388.33 + $24.27 postage form the UK. That is a very good price indeed, especially for the postage if you want to follow it up (Ebay Item No. : 166580536586)

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comments. You are absolutely correct, I could have clocked the backplate for the collet chuck as you say. That's a l lesson learned, thanks. You are also correct, the chuck is a Burnerd and not a Crawford, not sure why I called it that it was an error on my part. I checked your eBay reference and couldn't find the item, it must have been sold but thanks for the lead. Cheers Steve O

[@jamesdavis8021]

Nicely done.New subscriber. I am looking forward to seeing more of your work.The cast iron backing plate is a much better choice than aluminum

[@theoutbackshed]

Awesome, thank you and welcome aboard.

[@theoutbackshed]

I am currently building a 5C Collet Chuck the same as this build. If you have any suggested comparison tests we could do between the 5C and the ER40 please leave a comment. I'll try and incorporate your ideas into the video.. Cheers Steve O

[@HM-Projects]

Nice build. I took the easy way out and turned an ER40 chuck in-situ, a couple of microns run-out which I suspect is due to the collets rather than the chuck.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment, I just watched your video and I have subscribed.

[@dazaspc]

Great to see an unused face plate put to good use. I have lost count for the number I have seen that are just being used for rust magnets or trip hazards. I was however a little concerned at the method you used to mount the chuck? I would have thought you would have used the spindle nose mount in the rear as when it's mounted on that with the dowel/anti spin peg the chucks center run out is always the same and isn't affected by rotational forces. I have done this on a Face plate with great success for a customer. The run out replicated the machine spec sheet 500 mm away from the chuck. I understand that the chances of it being removed are extremely small but it can still float around. Let me explain A significant issue would be the tapered faces the cap screws tighten up on. Rotational force say tightening the chuck or turning load is being taken entirely by the screws and as they are not fully seated and probably being deflected away from the natural centering of the tapered seats you could run into induced changing run out. Think of it like a 4 jaw and setting up a job to get something sticking out of the chuck a long way you can usually tap it to improve the run out further away from the chuck. May I suggest a couple of modifications to what you have made to improve it's repeatability Please finish the cap screw mount faces with a flat bottom. This will prevent them from being affected by many of the things mentioned above. A nice slow HSS slot drill would do it easily but they need to be flat. Try to source some proper High tensile cap screws as Stainless units may not corrode but are to soft for use in that application. Finally a drive pin or dowel of some type. This will take the potential side load of the bolts but with the existing parts you have made would need to be machined after the mount holes have been fixed and the chuck clocked up. If you have to mess around with fasteners the mount method has a problem. However nice job and a great video.

[@theoutbackshed]

I agree with you that the mounting holes should have a flat bottom and high tensile cap screws. I will fix that on your advice. I don't agree with the set pin, the set-tru rods remain tight and add additional holding power to the chuck. The biggest chuck is 26mm so it won't be taking heavy cuts like other chucks. Also, I want to be able to readjust it from time to time. Cheers Steve O

You could go as far as marking the low/high spots in the runout of the chuck and the collet. That way when inserting the collet in the chuck you can clock them such way that they cancel each other out. Might get you another micron of accuracy ;-)

[@theoutbackshed]

Great idea, I like that.

[@Gottenhimfella]

What is really challenging (and you didn't check in this video) is to measure the runout some distance out from the collet. Nutation error is the bete noire of any chucking arrangement, and collets are no exception. A few microns of error close in can easily blow out to 50 microns at a distance of (say) 150mm.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment and you are correct. I have just finished filming a sequel to this build where I do undertake that check. Keep watching to see the results. Cheers Steve O

[@greglaroche1753]

Interesting. Thanks for the video.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment. Cheers

[@James-fs4rn]

👍 creative! Nicely done!

[@theoutbackshed]

Thank you and Cheers!

[@stevensmart8868]

Nice build. I have recently done a similar mount for an er32 collet chuck on my colchester student. It all worked out well except it turnes out the collects i have are not very concentic. Can you recommend any precision collets? Machinery house taiwan made? Cheers from NZ

[@theoutbackshed]

Hi and welcome to NZ. I have a set of ER40 collets for the Mill that I have had for some time, they are very good but I got a set of high precision ER40's recently. These are the links to them. Machinery House: www.machineryhouse.com.au/er-5c-collet-sets M&G: www.mag-pro.com.au/index/index/productsdetails/id/513.html Both are excellent sets and both dealers have ER32 as well. Cheers Steve O

[@idus]

It looks like you got the best you can get with runout without having air bearings. I would really like that accuracy on my mori seiki c-15.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for that

[@dmanton300]

I had a second or two's panic when I saw you drilling six holes in the spindle, thinking "I could've sworn he only drilled five holes in the back plate!" 🤣🤣 Wouldn't be the worst eff up I've made in 38 years as a machinist!

[@theoutbackshed]

Cheers

[@Arthur-ue5vz]

Nice re-purposing of the face plate! No point in wasting that virgin piece of aluminum. Nice job! I'm curious, isn't 0.003mm just a little over a tenth? And not nearly 2 tenths? Thanks! Good presentation 😊

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment. I think 0.003mm is 0.000118"

[@Arthur-ue5vz]

@theoutbackshed that's what I had thought. You know you're in the outback when you find that you're making a LOT of stuff because there's no store nearby........ 😊

[@tonyking9235]

I CAN TELL YOU THAT YOU SLIDE ON AND SLIDE OF . THE BED . SO NICE TO SEE ONE WITH OUT DENTS IN IT . CAN TELL YOU LOVE AND RESPECT YOUR EQUIPMENT.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment.

[@mikegregory460]

where did you get the face plate from, I am in Aus and I have been looking for one for ages now to do the exact same thing. Your flutes are a nice addition so i will steal that idea

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment, There are a few other places I can suggest: Machinery House www.machineryhouse.com.au M&G: www.mag-pro.com.au Mick Moyles: www.moyles.com.au Newmac Equipment:: www.newmac.com.au ESP Machinery: machineryesp.com Good on ya for the flutes,.Cheers Steve O

[@renetr6771]

This isn't the most precise chuck for long. When diameters of the holded workpiece not fit absolut exactly to the grinded diameter of the collet, only single contact points between the collet and the chuck take all the force, so both, chuck and collet wear out on these spots very fast. A common "wedge rod chuck" (is it the right translation?) is more precice over a much longer time. The most precice and long lasting solution (beside a hydro expansion chuck - yes, they exist also for workpiece clamping, but they are not very flexible in use -) is a hexagonal collet chuck (p.e. they exist from HAINBUCH) but ofc. it is no solution for the amateur. But, u did a very good job on this, and for private use, it is sure really accurate.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment.

[@lucasandri5462]

Interesting build and a clever way to use a spare faceplate. Also the idea of the 4 adjustment screws is quite neat and the result pays for all the extra work. Is the collet nut with thrust bearings?

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment. Yes, the nut has a thrust bering.

[@mrcpu9999]

I enjoyed that. I did notice you made a comment about not wanting to use carbide because of the interrupted cut, but then the chamfer looked like a carbide insert. Is that just because the chamfer is such a light cut? I'm not a machinist (clearly), but watch a lot of the videos, trying to learn.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment. I did cut the chamfer with a carbide insert. Although they are not as good at interrupted cutting as HSS, they will do the job. You are correct that this was an interrupted cut. It was a small light cut with little risk to the insert. I would not have used carbide for the initial machining after milling the plate as this would have been more aggressive.

[@guyloughridge4628]

Which DRI is show in this video? This ia an amazing DRO

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment. The DRO is an Eason ES12. I don't think they are available now. Cheers Steve O

[@colincreedtattoomachines]

Nice build & video, Well done!! Just curious as to whether you marked the ER40 Chuck & its adaptor relevant to each other or is it something you leave until your totally sure of its total runout after some use? Obviously the marking being relevant to disassembly should the need arise.

[@theoutbackshed]

Hi, and thanks for the comment. I plan to use the chuck for a while then reset it, hopefully a little more accurate. I will put witness marks on the chuck and the backplate as you point out for disassembly. It will of course need to be 'dialled in' again. I will also put a witness mark for the spindle to ensure that the chuck always gets installed in the same place. Cheers Steve O

[@davidharper4289]

Better than "Nice", really well done. Cheers, Davo from Vic

[@theoutbackshed]

Thank you.

[@tarehjernetarehjerne4082]

You should grind the taper after seating it. You likely have some parallelism error as you didnt grind the end seat. After grinding a tool holder for a test i got it to zero microns on the tool.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment. I don't have tooling for grinding so I will have to make do with what I have, there will always be some error with it. Great that you got to zero. Cheers Steve O

[@CarterSchonwald]

Super fun video. But the audio could probably benefit from filtering/reducing the volume of the higher frequency parts of the vacuum and machining sounds.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment, it is a key learning for me. I will make some changes in upcoming videos. Thanks for the advice. Cheers Steve O

[@CarterSchonwald]

It might also have just been I had a bit of a migraine yesterday, but either way good stuff

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment. I did make some sound changes in my last video "Machinist Hammer". Have a look at that and let me have your comments on the sound levels. I might still have some work to do. Cheers Steve O

[@CarterSchonwald]

@@theoutbackshed seems better! Or maybe my migraine is just gone today. I think generally you may wanna think of the soundscape as a communication tool about how the process is going well or not, rather than just incidental. Maybe. Also one think that might be cool is down shifting the frequency in sped up parts, so it sounds like normal speed happening fast rather than up shifted

[@theoutbackshed]

Great idea, I'll try that, maybe separate the soundtrack and deal with is separately. Cheers Steve O

[@macgolf1194]

Nice work..Why don't you use flood coolant.. ?

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment. Flood coolant is not needed on cast iron. I do use it on the big lathe for critical steel jobs but I only use it when I have to. Regards Steve O

[@procyonia3654]

Where did you get that DRO for the mill, i like that display

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the question. I got it from the dealer I bought the Mill from. It's an Eason ES12. I don't think they make them anymore but hear's a link to the site" www.machineryhouse.com.au/digital-readouts-easson

[@ninomaiorano6697]

Would you explain how your electronic centre finder works?

[@theoutbackshed]

Hi and thanks for the question. The centre finder works by passing a small electrical current (from an internal battery) to the ball at the end of the probe. When it contacts the work piece it completed the circuit and the light comes on and the finder beeps. It is very sensitive and only has to touch the workpiece. it's important that the workpiece is free of oil as this can cause issues. The ball is 10mm in diameter and subtracting half of this value from the measurement will place the centre of the spindle over the edge of the workpiece. There are several ways it can be used, in this instance I was using it to find the centre of a circle, in other cases it can be used to find the edge of a workpiece or the corner of the workpiece. Here's a link to it. www.machineryhouse.com.au/m690 Cheers, Steve O

[@peterfitzpatrick7032]

Did you do anything to confirm the back of the faceplate was machined parallel to the front for the counterboring for the collet chuck body in the milling machine ?... It turned out beautifully btw (not a big fan of the SS SHCS myself though) A sub & a like !! From the Emerald Isle 😎👍☘️🍺

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment and the sub. The back pf the plate already had a D8 cam lock mount machined into it, therefore the face I machined was registered to that. The plate was mounted onto the mill table on parallels located on that register, Only the 6x 8mm tapped holes were machined on the mill. Cheers Steve O

[@peterfitzpatrick7032]

​@@theoutbackshed Ahh yeah, that makes sense of course, Steve...🤔.... thanks for replying, mate... 😎👍☘🍺

[@Abrikosmanden]

That turned (heh heh) out beautifully!

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks

[@lundysden6781]

is that a precision mathews lathe?

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment. No it's not a Precision Mathews its a Toolmaster, sold in Australia by hare and Forbes. It's fully designed and made in Taiwan. Cheers Steve O

[@MotorsportDiesel]

The world is made of rubber my friend! There is normal machining +/- 0.001" or 0.01 mm, then there is precision machining where we go sub those measurements in magnitudes smaller. This is a realm where slight pressure changes and your breath heating things up can change the dimensions. In this your awareness to these changes seems to even change your breathing and cautiousness to minute details, everything seems to happen in slow motion. Part of my duties when not machining parts is building common rail Diesel fuel injectors, I have a range of less than 5 microns of adjustability on the critical dimensions, in this, minute temperature swings really skew the base measurements. I also do some OD grinding on some shafts that I manufacture. They are heat treated to mid 50's Rockwell and I try to maintain 0.000197" / 5 microns on the diameters, so I can understand what you are trying to achieve. Measure, measure, measure and slowly sneak up on it!

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment. I could only dream of machining in that range. 0.01mm is about where I get.

[@PeckhamHall]

It would have been interesting to have seen the run out further from the chunk, as any errors could possibly been magnitude, or a test cut maybe, As the editing feels like it's left it hanging. In my opinion.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment, Good suggestion, I will do this test in an upcoming video. Cheers Steve O

[@AdamMaszynotwor]

Dobra robota :) 🦾🦾🦾

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks.

[@jasonbell5905]

Nice!

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks!

[@OriginalNotNyanCat]

Amazing work but ... Mate, you gotta get your sinuses checked. I had the same mouth breathing problems and asthma, and it really helped once doctors removed tissue in my nasal passages. Best wishes for your health.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment and your concerns.

[@BigBoss-rh7zq]

Accutracy ?

[@joell439]

👍👍

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks

[@bdove7939]

A bit agricultural. That was funny. Good one.

[@jtambor1]

5C is more accurate than ER for work-holding and is designed for this. ER is designed for tool-holding.

[@theoutbackshed]

I agree that ER are designed for work holding and ER for tool holding. However, ER chucks are being manufactured from lathes so their use has evolved, Both are useful but I think ER are more flexible as 5C work best with nominally sized stock.

[@jtambor1]

@@theoutbackshedThanks for the reply. ER is more common now due to its cost, mainly, and flexibility. But my point was about accuracy. Precision 5C collets vs precision ER collets. For work holding, it's no contest.

[@theoutbackshed]

Point taken..

[@magicbytes3835]

I just have to say this, I am really annoyed that you sacrificed a face plate, you could have bought a chuck back plate from Hare & Forbes in Sydney for $66 and used that to mount the ER40 chuck to, Cheers from me.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment. Disappointed that you are annoyed. There are a few reasons I didn't use a back plate. The backplate has a large bore and would not allow for the mounting of 6 cap screws at 95mm PCD The backplate is too thin in the cam lock centre and would not allow me to make the set-tru feature. I needed 19mm for that and this would not have left enough metal for the mounting bolts. The camlock studs go right through the backplate but not the faceplate as it is thicker. Hare and Forbes sell the D8 back plate for $319, I already had some spare back plates. Here's the link to the back plates www.machineryhouse.com.au/l286 Hope this clarifies the build for you. PS, I'm about to sacrifice another faceplate but this time for a Bison 5C collet chuck. Then we can do some comparisons. Cheers Steve O

[@magicbytes3835]

Hello what about lifting weights from a garage sale, are they made from cast iron?. That $319 from H&F is a bit pricey.@@theoutbackshed

[@theoutbackshed]

Your correct, the H&F price is too high. Lifting weights are not suitable as they are too thin . I needed >85mm. Also, I'm not sure of the composition of the cast iron that lifting weights are made from. I don't know how safe they would be when the lathe is spun up. Cheers Steve O

[@magicbytes3835]

Ok, I guess you must use another face plate, its a real shame, breaks my heart, wish you the best, have fun, cheers from me.🙂@@theoutbackshed

[@pawekowalski7469]

Good Job 👍👍 First video, subscribe

[@theoutbackshed]

Cheers, and thanks for the sub!

[@РоманНиколаевич-в4щ]

Хорошая план-шайба была.

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment.

[@gregorteply9034]

Goddamn dude 😮

[@theoutbackshed]

I'll take that as a compliment... Cheers Steve O

[@Narwaro]

Looks like a bought one!

[@theoutbackshed]

Thank you

[@Paul-pl4vy]

Your chuck was running the wrong way

[@Paul-pl4vy]

😂

[@theoutbackshed]

Thanks for the comment. It was running the correct way. The video was shot at 25 frames per second and the spindle speed was se to 120rpm. This means that the video is "out of sync" with the rotation of the lathe giving the impression that the spindle ir rotating backwards. Perhaps another view can explain this better than me?

[@shaunperhat]

Why do you breathe so heavily

[@theoutbackshed]

Proximity to the camera, shouldn't be the case in future videos.