The MOST COMMON Hemi Tick, and how to fix it! // I bet your Hemi is doing this right now!

[@matthewperry7812]

It’s clear you’ve done this many times, cause you make it look so easy! Great tips and explanation of the different ways to tackle the repair here.

[@TheKevinbabcock]

You my friend are an automotive angel. I've been researching my hemi tick and was certain it was the lifter issue I've been seeing everywhere. BUT after seeing your video I popped my wheel off and quickly identified broken bolts and a floppy heat shield. Just fixed it with a new gasket, o ring and bolts. TRUCK NOW sounds like the day I drove it off the lot. I just finished and immediately wanted to thank you !!!!!

[@daniel1k793]

Learning alot about the hemi with your channel, and I'm appreciative. Great job!

[@ReignitedAuto]

Thanks very much for watching! 👍

[@TheFoxphire]

Thank you one hundred times! I heard the tick and have been freaking out with all the horror stories of lifters. I checked the manifold shroud, and low and behold, two bolts were broken. Thanks again, you rock!

[@ReignitedAuto]

Sweet! This is exactly what I wanted to hear when I made this video 👍

[@HemiMike]

FYI. You are my new favorite Channel.! Well done, great subject, video, audio, commentary, and editing. THANKS FOR THE GREAT WORK. 👍👍

[@ReignitedAuto]

Thanks man I really appreciate it! 👍

[@daylonmichael2125]

Couldn’t agree more. Don’t see much good content about the hemi. Usually it’s just an exhaust video lol you go in depth and are severely underrated 👍🏻

[@marks8368]

Two things. The exhaust bolts from the factory often have thread lock on them. It is designed to hold fast when cold. If you heat up the remaining stud first you'll have more luck backing it out. 2ndly, for studs that are sheared off at the block you can buy a template kit online that bolts onto the head and you use it as a drilling guide, and can also be used to re-tap the threads. I highly recommend this for any Hemi owner. There are several on the market Lisle is one. As a preventative measure, replace the two rear most bolts every two years and "Do not over torque".

[@ReignitedAuto]

That's one of the side benefits of the method I use, since the welding process heats the remainder of the stud and breaks that thread lock residue free. Definitely if you're not able to access a welder those kits to drill the studs out are very helpful, trying to do it freehand is not advised 😄. Appreciate the tips you've offered! 👍

[@leviethan64]

@@ReignitedAutoI’m getting ready to do this on my 2015. While I’m in there I’m doing struts and control arms. I figured it would be a good idea while it’s apart. 82k on the truck. I bought new manifolds but I’ll check the old ones first to see if they can be reused. You stated you’ve used the old ones on reinstall. Any trouble with that because they are warped? Thanks for the videos and the those latex gloves are the best.

[@fogit4668]

Does ARP make exhaust manifold studs for the HEMI? I would think that if they do that they would not be breaking off like the FCA ones.

[@melaniecharbonneau2646]

​@@ReignitedAutohello!! I recently bought a 2013 Ram 1500. The check engine light is on because of a "CO2 leak" that could be the possible reason that the engine shuts off when I use the remote starter. Please, can you advise me if this(video) could be the problem for the CO2 leak?? If not, do you have an idea what could be the problem and how to fix?? (Excuse me my english is not perfect. I hope you understand what I said) Thank you!!

[@ReignitedAuto]

@@melaniecharbonneau2646 I'm going to guess that the code is due to a vacuum leak, that's the only thing I can think of that corresponds to a c02 leak. Do you have the exact code number? If it is a vacuum leak then broken exhaust bolts are not the problem. There is likely a leak somewhere after the throttle body that will need to be found. I would start by looking for a disconnected hose from the intake manifold.

[@coltonbrooks3474]

Just got a 2012 Ram 1500 that had a ticking sound but after watching your video, I found out that the real issue was an exhaust leak. Just like you said, passenger side, rear bolt had sheered off and the heat shield was loose. Thank you for posting the video!!

[@ReignitedAuto]

Comments like this are exactly why I made the video, glad I could help!

[@MrMarcus5191]

An old trick before you break them, says this old machinist. At the first sign of any resistance take a drift and give the bolt a good sharp rap.....'shock' them loose. Seems to be most effective with aluminum castings in my experience....good luck guys....!

[@ReignitedAuto]

Hey, thanks for that feedback! I'm going to give that a try next time, because there will always be a next time 😄. Thanks for watching! 👍

[@OutJeeping]

Great channel you have and I hope you grow fast. Great content and very clear in your teaching. I bought my 2016 ram 5.7 in Oct and took it back to get the bolts fixed, along with other issues they found. Luckily it was all covered by warranty.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Nice! Thank you for watching 👍

[@joef2171]

They should play this at the FCA training center's for fixing manifold leaks.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Thanks! 👍

[@HemiMike]

New sub! Last night I binged watch your 300C 5.7 engine serie! That was the best

[@killajoe81]

Man.... every time I have an issue your videos come up on my feed with a fix... you my good sir are my Mopar saint, you should have your own day for showing everyone how easy difficult issues can be, of course I subscribed and have every alert for every video you make, I even gave myself some free time today to watch that custom truck you built with the 6.4. Can you make a video about the " service all wheel drive" that comes on my 2016 charger police intermittently?

[@raymyers23]

Man I am so thankful for you putting this knowledge out there. You nailed my issue spot on 1000000% thought I had the lifter tick issue, went outside after watching this video and found my heat shield on passenger side back of the motor was loose. 2017 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 right at 100k miles.

[@ReignitedAuto]

That's awesome! Comments like this is exactly why I made the video. Thank you for watching! 👍

[@stuarthoffman5065]

Great video! what is your opinion on replacing the bolts with new as a preventative measure? It would eliminate the extra work removing a broken bolt and possible manifold.

[@joeperry8518]

Nice tip on welding just the stud to get it out! This reminds me I need to recheck the torque on my truck manifolds as I noticed some soot between them and the heads.....not something I’m looking forward to, and yes I’m being lazy.

[@ReignitedAuto]

If I remember correctly the access for those manifolds is terrible though! I wouldn't be looking forward to it either 😒

[@maddawgnoll]

God damn. I just spent 3 weeks ordering parts and tearing into my hemi. Got to the timing chain and oil pump, dropped the pan and couldn't find anything wrong. No glitter... nothing. New water pump, fan clutch, alternator etc. Because it sounded like a horrible rod knock I never checked the obvious hemi problem. I just went out and looked at me heat shield, and was able to take a bolt or by hand. All this time and unnecessary money and it's just a gasket and handful of bolts. Well I know I can tear the front end and valve covers off in less than a couple hours now hahaha

[@ishimarukazuma3517]

I should off researched I changed my lifters n cam pistons head gasket and turns out it was a easy fix exhaust manifold

[@twoweelr]

I've been watching your videos for the 1st time. Very knowledgeable and your logical thing is dead on. This issue with rear exhaust studs breaking is from lack of flow in the exhaust manifold. The rear cylinders are closest to the collector so heat up the most and thus break 1st. A better manifold flow would have improved the issue. It is an issue with all v8s over time.

[@ReignitedAuto]

There's no question these factory manifolds are terrible 😄

[@captain052A]

PLEASE HELP!I have a tick clack on my 6.4 hemi. The lifters and cam were replaced by the previous owner less than a year. I want you to hear it. Please visit my profile to listen. Sound is from middle exactly right under the manifold fwd of car only.

[@Saiyan4658]

I've been telling people for years that the lifter issue isn't as common as they think! But you are correct in the fact that the notoriety of the lifter issue is so inflated everyone thinks their Ram will ultimately have this issue. I have 140k on my Ram and I have a passenger side broken exhaust bolt and need to fix it but my lifters are doing just fine.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Nice! thanks for the feedback 👍

[@myhoodiskc]

I think I unfortunately bought my 2011 Srt8 with only 45k on it with lifter failure. Not 100% sure yet 😭

[@neilporven3830]

Nice video, excellent explanation with how it sounds before and after. I had to take my 1500 to the dealer for a head gasket job, because I felt the job would be a bit overwhelming especially without a lift at home. The dealer is now telling me I might have a camshaft issue as well. I originally took it in for white smoke coming from the exhaust, which I know it was a head gasket issue. I think they are trying to blow some smoke on top of the white smoke 🤣🤣🤣🤥

[@ReignitedAuto]

Good time to do it though, especially if there's a decent amount of miles on the engine already. 👍

[@WilliamAlvarez86]

How much do you charge for this job?

[@1gr8oil]

Great Video concerning the issue of broken studs on the 5.7 Hemi. Thanks for sharing this information. Your explanations are very detailed!

[@ReignitedAuto]

You're welcome, and thank you for watching! 👍

[@mikaerler9692]

@@ReignitedAuto does they often broke on the 5.7? Ive got a Challenger and some new headers i wanted to mount next month. But i dont realy warnt to Deal with broken studs

[@richis2fast4u]

Idk how you stay so cool and relaxed. Any time I am dealing with busted bolts in a cylinder head, I have emptied the bag on curse words lol.

[@ReignitedAuto]

You know, the Hemi does make it easy because once the bolt starts coming out they spin out with no issue. I've done LS engines before, and those bolts will fight you for every 1/4 turn! And forget about iron heads!

[@andyritchotte55]

Curious if this might be the result of hotter combustion gases exiting from the No. 8 cylinder into the exhaust manifold causing these bolts to break. As I understand it, that cylinder is also prone to failure of the valve cover gasket, typically the figure 8 type gasket sealing off the spark plug tubes. This is caused by crank case pressure backup do to a faulty PCV valve system (again, as I understand it) which exits in that vicinity . My 2012 Ram 1500 has had that valve cover gasket problem (oil was leaking into and pooling in the spark plug tubes), and what I describe more as a Hemi Gurgle that seems to resonate thru the entire exhaust system, but it can be heard from the firewall area too. This sound is especially prevalent during cooler weather. Performance and gas mileage hasn't changed much, if any, in the last 5 years or so (yes, this very annoying sound has been going on for quite some time... and my truck is just a few miles shy of its 200,000th birthday). I appreciate your discussion and video on this, and will most definitely check out the heat shields on both sides of the motor. Stumbled across you videos today. Appreciate you other videos as well.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Thanks for watching Andy!

[@stevebeccard1054]

I love this video. It really just reminds me how much of a pain this truck is. 2014 Ram 1500. Lifter stuck with valve open, chipped off a chunk of piston. it went through the exhaust valve. Then when I tore it all down, I discovered that both manifolds had broken studs.

[@DMan1198]

I done so many manifold gaskets on these trucks and wound up thinking about it a lot. My best estimate is the weight of the exhaust system stresses the rear of the manifold causing the breakage. I’ve seriously contemplated adding a hanger at the bell housing to take stress off the manifolds.

[@xmradio11]

I have heard of another possible reason for the problem. It was that too hard of acceleration on a cold motor is a possible reason since the head is aluminum and the manifold is cast iron. The different metals heat up at a different rate and therefore expand at a different rate. Hard acceleration blasts a lot more heat on the cold metal. It sounds very possible to me. I had the problem with my 09 Ram which came with a lifetime drivetrain warranty so it didn't cost me anything to get fixed. Since then I always take it easy on the gas until I see the temp gauge getting close to normal operating temp as a precaution.

[@ronedelenbos272]

Flex connector at the Y

[@robsorgdrager8477]

It's from the expansion and contraction of the cast vs the bolt. Over time the bolt hardness changes and exhaust is corrosive ....it weakens the bolt and it snaps. Happens on the LS engine all the time. I've found volvo exhaust bolts rarely do this because of the stainless boron alloy , they are also quite a stretchy bolt . It might just come down to cheap metal .

[@superchile9640]

I've seen other KZbin videos that show the manifold warps. I'm sure all of your diagnosis are good. I've see that shorty headers are the only permanent fix. Reusing the manifold will result in the same failure down the road.

[@ronedelenbos272]

@@superchile9640 I'm 300000 miles in and no issues since it's been fixed. It's a 2010 ram

[@gregphillips1046]

Great explanations.... I have a 2015 1500 with 5.7.….I had the exhaust leak....drivers side....after repairing that....cylinder 5 ticking......cam and lifter needed replaced.....in process of assembly now....seems like they are getting more and more failures.....my friend has a 2012 1500.....both leaking and bad cam...

[@ReignitedAuto]

With more mileage and time we are bound to see more failures, things wear out. You can see this same trend with Hondas and Toyotas as well. All engines break down at some point.

[@barry009]

I did this repair to my 1500; had a mechanic friend do the welding trick after I failed at welding nuts on (understand why now- thanks for explaining that). What are the chances I’ll have to do this again? Will the new studs eventually fail too? Also, some have suggested putting headers on in place of the stock manifolds....thoughts??

[@ReignitedAuto]

More than likely if you used the standard factory bolts it'll have to be done again at some point. The factory does offer "upgraded" bolt hardware, it's like $5 per bolt. Putting headers on instead of the stock manifolds solves the problem because you are changing the hardware to a different type altogether that is shorter and doesn't hold heat as badly as the stock manifolds tend to do. 👍

[@bradymock7461]

I just want to say this just to put it out in the word. But from years of racing motocross. I figured out that if you cut the bolt with a Dremel you can get a flat head or even a Phillips, and a T20-T25 star is strongest if you want to get fancy. Put an impact on it and zip it out.

[@williamward9448]

My 2014 Ram 1500 has 89k. After watching all your videos, I'm thinking about replacing the header bolts BEFORE an issue arises.. Thoughts? What would be the best replacement bolts for the headers?

[@ModelA]

Hmmm. Broken exhaust manifold bolts! Wow! I love your method of getting that stud out of the head that broke flush. Welding that blob on the end and working it out with vicegrips was GENIUS!

[@ReignitedAuto]

Have to admit I want the one who came up with it, but hey it works good 👍 thanks for watching!

[@jdoss2945]

Great info. I do work at a dealership. I usually do the same methods you use. Except on this one. I would rather drill and extract it. Angle drill does well here. Majority of the time I spend no more than 5 to 10 mins drilling and extracting.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Yep, if you've got a good system no need to change it! 👍

[@kalebhahn5947]

Rough estimate, how much do y’all normally charge for this?

[@AnswermanAnswerman]

You need to be checking the manifold for warpage as that is the main cause. I have seen as much as .060 in. in some, mostly caused by heavy towing. It will stop come backs and serve your customers well!

[@ReignitedAuto]

On customer pay vehicles I generally do check for excessive warpage. Chrysler stopped paying for new manifolds when doing this job under warranty unfortunately. 👍

[@mastercarpenter1970]

Mine was making a ticking noise and we replace the exhaust gaskets and bolts and it was still ticking and the mechanic trying to tell me it was the four-wheel drive actuator! Is that possible?

[@ReignitedAuto]

I have heard electrical motors make ticking noises before. But with that being said, I find it really hard to believe that it would be the t-case actuator.

[@stevebost8048]

Why don't they use a better quality Bolt

[@ReignitedAuto]

I've asked myself that question for years. I've given up expecting an answer 😄

[@VonSpud]

Great video...I have a broken bolt or two so Dodge dealership tells me. $700 Hmm, I maybe able to buy a welder for that much. Thanks.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Appreciate you watching! 👍

[@onehandassassin8452]

So glad I found your channel! I have a 2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee summit 5.7 with 45k miles. And it’s constantly in the shop! Glad I found your channel! Keep em coming! 🙏🏼💯💯

[@jonathanposs4448]

Pertaining to the bolts only, if they are known to break them why replace with the same factory parts? Isn’t their an aftermarket bolt that is better?

[@ReignitedAuto]

Actually the factory itself offers a stronger bolt, they're about 5 bucks each, but supposedly they are much stronger. Not a lot of people opt for them though.

[@bigtd7399]

What happens when you tighten the intake bolts down to tight? Please let me know sir. And I really like your vid

[@ReignitedAuto]

Intake? or exhaust? For the intake, those bolts are pretty thin, wouldn't take much to snap them off, then you've got to remove the intake manifold and try to drill out the broken off portion. For the exhaust, It's pretty hard to overtighten them, you can feel pretty well when they are seated all the way. Thanks for watching! 👍

[@bigtd7399]

I changed the mds solenoids and now I have a sound of little ticking noise,but the durango won't run right. Unless I put in tow mode. Then it seems to run ok then

[@terrylarson7596]

great video, I think i will change mine out before they break off!

[@ReignitedAuto]

If you're down to do the work it's probably a good idea as it's a matter of when, not if. Thanks for watching! 👍

[@victorgirouard1543]

This is a big problem for ford's to have done tones of 5.4 and 6.8 liter engines and always have 1 or 2 that have to be drilled out a big pain in the but!

[@ReignitedAuto]

They probably share bolt suppliers 😂

[@charliemik7284]

Great stuff! Question - You mentioned a few times in your responses about an upgraded hardware from Ram but it is expensive. Please define the difference in numbers of what the standard parts cost vs. the good stuff. I would like to know if paying the extra might save me one or more return trips to the shop to repeat this procedure, at significant cost each time. Do it right, do it once. Or do it cheap and be prepared to do it again. Of course this only applies if the upgraded parts actually ‘fix’ the problem. Thanks for your efforts, they are appreciated by many, myself included.

[@Barefoot-Bob]

lol first time my truck broke 3 bolts second time 7 bolts last time 3 bolts form brand new to 155000 miles

[@ReignitedAuto]

Why they haven't upgraded the bolts by now is beyond me. Must be cheaper to just fix all the broken ones...

[@chargerfryar]

Can you get studs in there? What do you think of using ARP studs and nuts?

[@ReignitedAuto]

I don't think there's room to use studs and still be able to slip the manifold back on. The factory does offer "upgraded" hardware that's supposed to keep this from happening, but the cost difference is enough that I just put stock bolts back in. 👍

[@danielkampfhenkel7993]

If I'm having to replace the bolts and get a new head gasket, would it just be worth going with a shorty header that's designed for an OE fit? Yes I know its about $500-$1,000 more.

[@ReignitedAuto]

If that was an upgrade you were already planning to do that's a good idea. I will say that I've installed a couple of those aftermarket headers, and they are a TIGHT fit in there!

[@redmunds5976]

Had to do this on the 4.7 about 10 years ago. You’d think they would have figured out a better bolt by now. Thanks for the video!

[@ReignitedAuto]

Haha, I think the same thing 👍

[@donholm9719]

Seems like they would have come up with an oversize bolt, hardened bolt, ??? by now.

[@ReignitedAuto]

@@donholm9719 the factory does offer "upgraded" hardware but it's more expensive and most people just opt to replace with stock stuff. 👍

[@jblaze0382nj]

Wouldnt it be a good idea to surface those manifolds on a bench sander if not replacing them?

[@ReignitedAuto]

Depends, you can check them with a straight edge and if they are severely warped then yes surface them. A lot of times though there is minimal warpage and you can just bolt them back up 👍

[@jasonknowles3465]

I think my 2016 has this; it’s very noticeable when first started cold, and even when it’s been driven for a while and warmed but parked for a little while, like 30-45 min, I can hear it briefly again. When it’s cold, it is there for longer than 30 seconds; prob 2-3 minutes.

[@edandtoniw]

Thanks for the great video and explanation on the exhaust leak. By your description, I’m pretty sure that my 2014 RAM has this problem on the passenger side rear but the one symptom to look for that doesn’t check out is that I can’t feel any looseness in the heat shield. Could it still be the broken bolts? Thanks!

[@ReignitedAuto]

Yes, sometimes the bolt is not fully broken yet, and sometimes it's just loose and causing a leak. Usually once you put a socket on the bolt to loosen it, that's when it snaps 😄

[@user-md4di6yg2p]

Just had both manifolds replaced on my 14 5.7 hemi...quiet as a mouse now!

[@ReignitedAuto]

Funny how big of a difference it makes right? Sometimes we get used to certain noises, and when they go away it's like "Wow" 😅

[@saadraza7760]

I have the same issue in RT i just bought. Wasn’t aware of the reason why this sound coming. I even hear spooling sound when i push on gas. Is it dangerous to let it be like this for a while?

[@ReignitedAuto]

Nope, no real harmful effects from not fixing it, just annoying. 👍

[@cd5beast]

How's it going man. I came by the other day to treat your house.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Jerome! Hey man it was really nice to meet you, maybe we'll get a chance to meet up again at COTA for the Moto GP races 👍 hope your next project is a good one!

[@robsorgdrager8477]

So I have a gen 3 hemi charger AWD pursuit. I have a noise that is not a tick or a knock and is loudest when going into 4cyl at 65mph. It goes almost away switching to 8 cyl. It can be heard through the steering shaft and in both modes it has a odd resonance like something is grounding from the chassis to the fire wall. No codes, no performance issues it's just NVH. I am a mechanic of 25+ years and I have worked for ford, gm and now volvo plus 10 years in the aftermarket. It does not sound like valve trane to me it's loudest twords the rear middle of the block ( used stethoscope to pin point ) . I have almost zero experience with these cars and I really don't want to bring this to the dealership as I don't trust anyone to be inside my car ( worked in this industry a long time and I know that I will get " that guy " that will just over hand chuck parts at it) honor and image are at stake here. Could use some pointers.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Sounds to me like you're on the right track. That definitely sounds like a resonance issue more than anything else. I'd be looking at the front crossmember for anything that might contact the crossmember. Possibly the transfer case or something near the steering rack. If the mounts are worn for the engine/trans that might allow something to touch. It only takes the lightest touch for a bad vibration to appear. Like I said, I think you're on the right track. 👍

[@robsorgdrager8477]

@@ReignitedAuto I finally found it....the flex plate is fractured in four spots. They seemed to have had this issue back in the day with the w body trucks . Everyone told me it was lifters and I was like " it sounds like there is a loose block in my block " it was hollow and tingy at the same time. Being I work at a Volvo dealer I figured I'd take it and let the dodge dealership fix it ( the second time I've let some one else fix my car in my life ) and they are a week+ behind😳. It's a half day job max... FML !!!

[@jakemason9436]

My 2916 Ram 1500 passenger side top back studded bolt broke flush just out of warranty. Did the re and re in my home garage. Be patient. Drilled and EZout with high quality left hand drill bits. I did my research and spoke to FCA. FYI FCA makes two types of replacement bolts. The cheaper set (about $1 per bolt) are the originals. The ones with a white paint dot on the heatsheild stud tip are the ones FCA recommemds to dealers to repair the issue for the back bolts. The first two dealerships parts people I spoke with were not aware of the improved bolts. The third had a tech that knew what they were for and used them. This was not easy to find out. I was told they are a different metal composition and are $5 each. Worked well. Thanks.

[@ReignitedAuto]

You are absolutely correct on this, we have the upgraded bolts available at the dealer where I worked at. Due to cost, almost nobody opted to pay for them, which is funny because you're right there, might as well upgrade now, but people can't justify it for some reason. Thanks for watching! 👍

[@craigcwillard]

@@ReignitedAuto What is the part number for the upgraded bolts?

[@craigcwillard]

I replaced them once and would like to swap them out before the break again.

[@ReignitedAuto]

@@craigcwillard I don't have the part numbers myself, but if you talk to the parts dept at the dealer and ask for the pricing on the upgraded hardware they'll know exactly what you mean. 👍

[@jakemason9436]

@@craigcwillard The part number for the studded heat shield manifold bolts (revised upgraded) is 06509863AA. They are currently about $7-8 US each. They have a white paint dot on the stud tip. Be aware that scammers are selling them much cheaper with the dot painted on the cheaper bolts. Suggest you buy from a known reputable source. I bought mine from a dealership.

[@booobtooober]

My theory on why these break. - 1) The heat shield covers the front three cylinders and the back of the manifold hangs out a good bit. 2) While driving on rainy wet roads when you hit a deeper puddle a lot of water splashes and it hits that exposed portion of the manifold, this quickly cools and warps the manifold eventually to the point of breaking the studs. 3) The right side more commonly breaks because there are more deep puddles along the curb. 4) The studs could have been sized larger but the corporate bean counters not going to make that happen now. A cheap fix would be to enlarge the heat or should I say rain shield. btw I put new manifolds on my Ram 1500 because when I laid the old ones on a table, the front three exhaust ports laid flat and the rear most was better than an 1/8 inch in the air. And I mean the rust pattern matches the warping and makes it pretty obvious this is the problem. smdh

[@michaeldepow6663]

I grinded mine flat. Once cast iron goes through the heat cycle of warps you can never happen a second time

[@jajupa78]

I think this could happen, sure. However it far more likely that for whatever reason that side for the motor or both are running lean. I.e. the exhaust gas temp is super hot b_c the air fuel mix is off, prob from a fuel pump having low pressure or a vacuum leak on the intake will cause a lean condition as well. Also i have seen plenty of bent valves on these things which can also cause a lean condition. Any of these or a combination of two or more will cause the exhaust gas temp to sore. The manifold gets to hot and expands the stainless bolts have no give so they just shear off. If u are lucky they dont break of flush. But they always break off flush tho.)

[@miked9104]

Fantastic video! Recently acquire a ‘14 Ram 2500 4x4 that I might have this issue on. Thank you 👍🏻👍🏻

[@ReignitedAuto]

Hopefully it helps you out! Thanks for watching 👍

[@rogde5985]

So what are the consequences of not addressing this?

[@ReignitedAuto]

Practically nothing. There is a slight chance that over time the fresh air sneaking into the exhaust through the leak could make your oxygen sensor readings incorrect and this means it might start adding fuel thinking it's running lean. But this is rare and also not a huge issue.

[@davephawke8944]

Thanks for being out there for us dodge people I have learned a lot from your videos I already have a mechanical background not licensed by any means I have been working on all my owe vehicle's for years I'm doing a rebuild on my 2007 dodge ram 1500 5.7 I had a p0303 code and p02308 so I started digging into the problem looking at spark plugs first then coils I test each one all were working I even replaced 4 of them just to be sure but problem still was there so next step was to remove the valve cover to check valve spring's I did this with the engine off first and checked for broken spring's everything seemed normal nothing broken then I started the engine to see if there was any difference between the other valve spring's and of course there really wasn't so next step is I started removing the engine to see if I had a bad cam and the mds lifers again not really some wear on the cam and few of the lifters but nothing really terrible probably could get another 100000 km out of them maybe now my heads are off the block was there corrosion on the Pistons yes there was but again nothing terrible easy to clean up and as for the valves intake and exhaust was there corrosion on that to yes but again nothing terrible again easy to clean up so then I started digging into the Pistons themselves remove them from the block then I noticed some scoring on the sides of four of the Pistons out of 8 piston so now so now I am replacing everything including except for the crank it's in great shape all sensors I just glad I know how to do this myself I'll have a brand new motor when I'm done I even Honed out the cylinder walls I also did have broken studs on my exhaust manifold two of them on the passenger side I believe so again thank you for all your great videos I definitely do appreciate it

[@ReignitedAuto]

Very nice Dave, way to get deep into it! That's my hope with my videos is that they can help people, glad to hear it's coming together for you 👍

[@davephawke8944]

Ya definitely just waiting for parts and new tools to do the job I also got the headlight issues aswell in the tipm

[@ReignitedAuto]

@@davephawke8944 stupid TIPMs 😤

[@davephawke8944]

@@ReignitedAuto yup I'm really pissed about this it all started back in 2013 and of course I complained to dodge Canada I really got no where with them one of the people I had spoken to even told me he didn't see it as a safety issue I completely disagreed with this person obviously it started with the passenger side lowbeam not working so I did what I always do dig into it by checking the wiring harness no luck there no as of today's date passenger side lowbeam is still not working and to add to all of that my daytime running light on the driver's side quit working a while back and my high beam light on the driver's side don't work either it's not the bulbs I checked and it's not the plugs replaced the passenger side plus dodge only part and as for my engine parts I ordered most of them from rock auto great prices

[@Sanchurroz]

Great video and great explanations and great honesty. Will this also give me the code for cylinder misfire? Thanks in advanced!

[@ReignitedAuto]

It generally will not give you a misfire. 👍

[@johnnicklen251]

WOW! What a relief!!!! I have been freaking out and stressing over this "hemi tick". I Just found my broken exhaust bolts!! This is definitely the best feeling I have ever gotten from a KZbin video!! Thank you!!

[@earlybird541]

Been there down that on the Ram 2500. I had the exact same problem and because of the angle of the head to the frame it could not be drilled. That's when I learned about welding like you did. I do check them for warpage though. If they have been running for a while with a broken stud they can get pretty warped. Unlike dealerships all my customers are repeat for life. So I know the vehicle as opposed to a dealership where the tech thinks its fixed and never sees the vehicle again. Another great video

[@ReignitedAuto]

Appreciate you watching Wayne, interestingly, we used to replace all the exhaust manifolds that had broken bolts, then Chrysler stopped paying for them, they would only pay to replace the actual bolt that broke, and a new gasket. 🙄 Classis Chrysler I guess...

[@earlybird541]

@@ReignitedAuto That's why I love watching guys like you who specialized on a certain brand. I worked on 18 wheelers for a long time and transitioned into auto as a missionary outreach for single moms. Folks like you really help us guys who work on everything under the sun. It always improves my diagnosing skills. Thank you brother.

[@marctoscanini7225]

Welll on a cold start my 05 1500 is quite as a mouse, when it warms up it starts tickling… Also sound much lower than the lifters…like in the oil pan… My mechanic is saying timing chain slop, but I don’t agree… wouldn’t that make noise all the time? No codes yet, but probably on the way! How common do ya think ticking timing chains … Thx and great video

[@timc8913]

Very informative. Great job explaining things. Thanks for taking the time to share. New subscriber. 👍

[@ReignitedAuto]

Thanks for watching and subscribing I appreciate it! 👍

[@timbredesen6667]

Im wondering how to get my 2005 Chrysler 300c 5.7 Hemi engine rebuilt with all issues like aluminum valve seets upraded to steel and a high volume oil pump. Ect...Ect..She has 126,000 miles and runs good however i want it done before the motor grenades on me! So can i get a number or email address by the mechanic in the video? I want a knowlegable Hemi specialist to do it!

[@2Ksteeple]

Why do you think the 1500’s are more prone to this problem than the 2500’s? Do they have different manifolds? Is it a 5.7 vs 6.4 thing? Someone enlighten me

[@JC-gw3yo]

Thank you for your professional help... But I would call this a 7 skill level

[@ReignitedAuto]

Appreciate you watching! 👍

[@richardcranium8651]

Welp, my 2018 with 100000 miles is ticking for 20 seconds after start up. I'm praying it's an exhaust bolt.

[@patickhallenbeck3542]

my heat shield dose this but the heat shield rusted through

[@ReignitedAuto]

That too is pretty common, these heat shields are pretty flim flam.

[@zimmyman564]

Why do they break off in the first place?

[@ReignitedAuto]

Seems to be a combination of cheap material casting used for the bolts, and thousands of heating/cooling cycles with thick cast iron manifolds.

[@royderouin7510]

This guy is a nice guy,....nice guy's do win.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Why thank you Roy! 👍

[@kyestephenson8498]

I'm new to your channel and it is clear to me you know what your talking about. So, I have a question. 2021 Ram Rebel 5.7 etorque auto shut off. I disable it because I don't like the idea of taking off with no oil in the top of the engine. Oil pump shuts off when the truck does correct? Is it still getting that weak Oil pump in the 2021 Ram Rebel 5.7 etorque. I do spend a lot of time idling so I'm wondering if I should be proactive? Thanks

[@coletindall4949]

I have 2015 ram 1500. I think I could have other issues to cause my truck to stall. But Could lifter failure cause my truck to stall. It only stalls out either when I’m in park and go to throw it in drive and it shuts off, or when Im in reverse and go to throw it in drive. It never stalls out when I’m stopping and going.

[@Hillbillygarage1215]

I have replaced the pass side twice now and the drivers side, first time now, on my 5.7 [160,000 miles]. The manifolds are clearly warped [straight edge] I put it back together and it is still noisy. I'm sure the manifolds didn't seat up properly so I guess I'm gonna have to upgrade to headers. I don't want to replace with stock manifolds because I have heard stock replacements are just gonna warp again.

[@johnsmith-qz4bv]

great tips and tricks

[@XtrmTJ97]

Are the exhaust bolts covered under warranty?

[@ReignitedAuto]

Factory warranty yes, sometimes extended warranties will cover them as well. 👍

[@Bob-gy6ud]

Yes and depending on your state may have a longer warranty than you know. In Texas ALL EMISSIONS EQUIPMENT is covered for 8 years. However is a bolt considered “emissions equipment” but if the manifold needs replacing that certainly is emission equipment

[@turbojoe2]

You know whats funny? The old 2.2/2.5 4cyl engines never had this issue. (dont know about the 2.7l v6's) They were aluminum head and cast manifolds too. But these 4.7 and 5.7 engines man.... Every. Single. One. Gets it....

[@ReignitedAuto]

I think it's just crappy bolt metal myself, when they break off you can see the "metal" they are made out of 😄

[@MultiPartizan1]

Use 5w30 synthetic motor oil with mobil one or other high quality filter , Higher oil pressure at idle better lubrication for cam lifters no brainer, It mite go well over 500k -1000miles Wrong oil ,or keep listening Manufacturer and do your lifter and cam every 50k-100k.

[@tomcooper920]

So I have heard that if you go to a good quality shorty header you can avoid this problem. It's this true?

[@ReignitedAuto]

I've never tried it myself so I can't tell you for sure. The only reason I can see this making a difference is if you are changing to different hardware, which I imagine is the case since the bolts for shorty headers are going to be much shorter due to the thinner flange thickness.

[@DL101ca]

Get some better quality bolts and it should be fine. Most use the 6.4 exhaust manifold bolts and gaskets and they seem to hold up better than 5.7 ones.

[@tomcooper920]

Thanks!

[@erikbrotherton7666]

Help!! 6.4 Hemi tick. Replaced cam, lifters, pushrods, rocker arms, valve springs, header bolts, header gaskets. It Still ticks?? No exhaust leaks…now what can I do to stop this constant annoying tick at all rpms, hot & cold doesn’t matter.

[@crazycat1345]

I have fixed my hemi problem. I went and bought a Toyota Tundra, problem gone. North American trucks are now garbage. My friend has a ford truck and can't keep a transmission in it so he went to Toyota as well.

[@octaviousm1672]

I have a 2019 5.7 etorque with 60k and it now has the manifold leak have you heard of any high pitch squeal (metal on metal) at 2500-3500 rpm I have taken it to 4 dealership and they can't find the issue

[@mattprince6858]

Love your channel! I have a 2015 Ram 1500 5:7 Hemi. It has a K&N cold air intake, I have been reading about long tube headers as a must mod. I’ve had to replace the manifold bolts twice already, do you recommend the headers? Thanks

[@ReignitedAuto]

The reason that headers fix the exhaust issue is because you are changing the hardware completely to a different type. The long tube headers definitely have a unique sound to them, makes the Hemi sound much more burly. My only recommendation is that with the headers on there, when the engine drops into 4-cyl mode it can a very pronounced drone at highway speeds. So you might want to look into a tuner that can turn off the MDS system altogether. 👍

[@dustin9967]

I bet you the trucks are more prone to breaking studs because the manifolds are more exposed to the elements (rain/snow) when driving? (Hot/cold cycling)

[@v1-vr-rotatev2-vy_vx31]

hemi tick? Seems to be in the transfer case the clicking chain? Lifters are not ticking exhaust repairs all done no ticking but yet I still have that tick,Yes exhaust leaks put the Headman shorty headers on only to have all the welds on the headman header crack, they sent me a new set of headers for free, but those crack too I'm on my third set they seem to be changing their way of welding, much smaller welds much colder. However their gaskets need to be retorqued after 2 months, it will start leaking again, had to retorque the bolts, and again a third time. 180°. They just need constant maintenance and I put a flex joint on the down pipe because the ball pivot joint from the factory is stupid and it totally prone to leak. I hear Dodge trucks leaking exhaust all the time driving up and down the road.

[@leeperry1999]

You just saved someone from stripping down their engine thinking they had a lifter issue. A little knowledge is priceless!

[@DL101ca]

Not to knock the value of this video but anyone who has the ability to tear down an engine to change the lifters will know enough to diagnose the issue first...

[@leeperry1999]

@@DL101ca Exactly right, however the video was to help the new kid working on his own engine not the experienced mechanic.

[@dominikwolf6863]

Do you have a Instagram channel?

[@ReignitedAuto]

@reignited.tx 👍

[@hunterdeese3463]

Would the exhaust leak cause an almost chirping noise and slow acceleration until 2nd or 3rd gear? Seems like it’s bogging. Trying to figure out if it’s lifter or exhaust issue. Any help is appreciated

[@SWATT101]

I just did six broken bolts altogether.(2012, 170k kms) One on each side was broke...2 on each side broke on removal...I'm in the rust belt in Ontario...more like calcium sprayed dirt roads here. I ended up buying a Lisle template and drilled for extractor...one helicoil was needed...good times...and still ticking away lol

[@ReignitedAuto]

Oof! I grew up on the coast with rust, I promised myself I'd never live where it rusts again! Where I live now you can leave bare steel outside for months with no issue. I feel for you guys deep in the rust!

[@bobbyyoung2831]

I just changed mine for the second time new stock headers and bolts. When are they going to make better bolts?? Or Manifolds that don't warp so badly.

[@donniemullensx33]

Well I unplug the battery honestly because I’ve personally witnessed a friend fry a diesel battery working on my truck once!

[@Joes-Adventures71]

My hemi ticked since it was new on a cold startup simply because the exhaust joints seal as they heats up. It literally goes away in 30 seconds. This can be misleading if you aren't used to it.

[@mrhyde0705]

Yup. Saw this MANY times. Customers complain it sounded like an old pockup on start, and after it got to N.O.T it was quiet. Ive never had it on mine with 200k, but i replaced headers at 100, and doing it again at 200🤣

[@michaelwas8549]

So are you saying If I buy the 2022 6.4 2500 I was looking at with 16000 mi. on it I will be having to replace these bolts eventually?

[@huntergreenLT1]

Is it possible the manifold bolt tick can continue after the motor is warm? Because mine definitely does not stop when it’s warm.. so I’m thinking cam and lifter but I’m trying to still be hopeful lol

[@watchman11000]

The problem is the factory manifolds are warped so bad that it causes excessive preload on manifold studs causing them to fail. I took my manifolds off and put a straight edge across them and found they were like 3/16 of an inch warped off center. Ordered new manifolds off Amazon (yes China made but they all are) they were not warped and replaced with new gaskets and hardware. No more tick and shouldn’t happen again. If you don’t replace warped manifolds you can expect this to happen again. I suppose you might be able to have a machine shop mill your factory ones flat but I never looked into it to see if it could be done.

[@ReignitedAuto]

This is true enough. Originally when this was first happening at the dealership we were sending the manifolds out to be surfaced flat again. Then we were just installing new exhaust manifolds period, then Chrysler decided they didn't want to pay for new manifolds anymore, so now we just put the old ones right back on... 🙄

[@andrewpena9041]

I have a 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland Summit 5.7. Im watching both of your Hemi videos because it just started ticking at 92k miles. It ticks in time with RPMs and stops completely when warmed up.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Definitely sounds like manifold bolt failure to me. Hate to say it, but those jeeps are a pain to do the manifolds on. 😬

[@daviddoe2440]

So my truck has the broken stud issue. What are your thoughts regarding headers? I figure if I've got to pull the exhaust manifolds anyway, I might as well re-install headers. Any experience with this?

[@ReignitedAuto]

Depends on if you're installing long tubes or short tube headers. Long tubes you'll get more of a result and they sound better, but they are a pain to install and you will need modified midpipes, however either way you'll be installing shorter hardware which should eliminate the bolt breaking issue. 👍

[@rafcio96]

To weld zinc/galvanization well, u have to use CuSi3 welding wire. This wire is special for the this material. Greatings from Poland.

[@ReignitedAuto]

I did not know that, thanks for the info! 👍

[@rafcio96]

@@ReignitedAuto i sell welding materials and equipments in Poland. So many welders dont know that :)

[@donraptor6156]

Nope! The bolt is not galvanized! Just the outside! You are welding inside the broken bolt!

[@rafcio96]

@@donraptor6156 Yes, if u weld inside :) but if u weld outside, u must change welding wire to CuSi3 type.

[@22ab8]

Apart from The "Murphy's Law"... factor... Why not just disconnect The Battery Anyway?

[@ReignitedAuto]

Absolutely nothing wrong with that at all. Coming from my flat-rate background, if it's not necessary we aren't going to do it 😄

[@22ab8]

@@ReignitedAuto Good Oh....Safety first I see..

[@ReignitedAuto]

@@22ab8 apparently someone peed in your Cheerios today, sorry about that.

[@22ab8]

@@ReignitedAuto Good Oh.... Sprinkle some more smugness on your porridge.. Love your logo, by the way