The Old CAT Moves DIRT after 15+ YEARS ~ DAY 6 ~ RARE 1954 Cat No.6 Shovel FORGOTTEN in a BARN

[@richarddecoster4464]

These old machines are living history and a testimont to how well built vehicles were built by our grandparents.

[@williambrown1031]

AND, hopefully maintained and stored as well as this one.

[@how_to_hallagon1]

Then Nixon and Billy bob came along with trade deals to china and our machines are laughable

[@tinkerbob5929]

It's my understanding that the thermostats are designed to moderate temperature, not only by opening when the temperature rises but to also moderate the speed at which the coolant flows. If the coolant flows too fast through the radiator it's not removing the heat from the coolant at the most efficient level. Awesome channel, I was looking for machining channels but found a diamond in the rough. Best of luck.

[@MarkD-nd9lg]

Yes, the coolant doesn’t spend enough time in the radiator to cool it. Old timer helped me out with that detail when I thought a 160 thermostat would help run cooler. Radiator was also pretty well plugged too...so fixing the radiator was also a big help.

[@Bobbywolf64]

What you say sounds like it could be plausible, but in practice it isn't really. Lots of folks for many many years just toss the thermostats if they get stuck closed, or for fear that they might stick closed. Basically what he is saying should be true. The diesel should take longer than normal to heat up. Since it is still overheating, the rad is very likely badly scaled or at least partially plugged. Along with all the coolant passages in the engine.

[@turkeybasham9644]

He’s right on our race cars we had to put a plate in instead of a thermostat. Had to drill a 1/2 hole to hold the coolant in the radiator to cool it. It over heated at first without anything holding the water back during or hot laps.

[@ngmtk7t]

Fluid heat transfer is a balancing act between temp difference (coolant to outside), coolant flow rate and coolant pressure. If any of those are out of whack, the system won’t cool properly. He’s right, you need a thermostat to govern flow rate as well as temp. But check your radiator passages as well.

[@manfredschmalbach9023]

@@Bobbywolf64 You usually do - if no replacement is present - NOT just throw away the thermostat, You remove not more than the part that's supposed to move with the bimetal spring stretching once temperature rises. Most modern engines heavily relying on proper cooling would not work sufficiently or even for a longer time with a completely lacking thermostat. Too many sensors in too many places would influence too much the injection/temperature-sensitive parameters with a completely lacking thermostat which usually would lead to severe, substantial engine damages. Throwing out the whole thing might work with prewar-engines, it might even work with the old Cat diesel engine (which I doubt though), but You can not do that with postwar gas engines or with turboed/directly injected diesel engines

[@1978garfield]

Very cool of that gentleman to let you use his driveway to change your tire. I have lived in the city for so long I keep forgetting how decent and helpful country folks are.

[@LimaRadek]

sadly those thermostats are gone , that "copper anti seize" is the wax from the actuator that is leaking out. thos cans at the bottom are basicly a hydraulic piston filled with wax, as the wax melts it expands and pushes the rod out of the can opening up the valve , as ist cools down the wax solidifyes slowly and contracts so the rod is pulled back (with the assistance of the spring) and the valve closes

[@aredditor4272]

Yup, it looks like a mix of wax and powdered copper. I learned that as a plumber. Water heater pressure relief valves have that same thing within them.

[@gordonagent7037]

I had no clue about how they functioned so thanks very much for your post and explanation, always a great day when you learn something of value

[@jonbeardsley3621]

Engines can run hotter without a thermostat sometimes because the water/coolant doesn’t stay in the radiator long enough to cool down because it is flowing to quick. We use to run restrictor plates (basically a thermostat without the guts) to slow the flow of coolant down

[@cyrilhudak4568]

+1

[@benchipley]

Exactly. When I was a young hot-rodder, we would replace the thermostat with a washer. The small opening would give the coolant time to do it's job in the radiator but would take the "stuck thermostat" problem out of the equation. Sometimes it would take a few different sizes to find the one that was perfect and would keep the engine at a constant temp.

[@richardsurber8226]

yeah...

[@silvergreylion]

Your physics teacher failed. Thermostats work by restricting/raising flow according to temperature. If taken out, cooling is always at max, and an engine would run very cool, probably too cool, which is why you'd need a restrictor plate to allow the engine to reach working temperature at top speed.

[@richardkuehn5402]

I like the fact that you had learned so much from ole Red !

[@SalvageWorkshop]

I learned a TON working on Old Red!

[@nobuckle40]

The more I watch this channel the more I thank God that I'm broke! Otherwise I'd be out there trying to find a machine like this to do what you're doing. So cool to see that old thing back in action.

[@quagmiredavis4117]

Add 2 quarts of Macs 1300 water pump lubricant and antirust with antifreeze this will unstuck thermostat and prevent water pump seal damage* you can purchase this at napa auto parts And 1 quart or 2 marvel mystery oil to diesel fuel loosen rings and sticking injection pump and injectors And 3 to 4 oz marvel mystery oil to pony motor fuel helps lubricant everything This is a great informative video like your other videos Keep the old iron rescues coming thanks for posting 👍

[@robertarmitage8709]

I deeply respect you for the honor you are giving/showing the presrnt owners and their previous generations. Our debt to those who went before us is often overlooked. My hat is off to you my friend.

[@SalvageWorkshop]

And my Hat is off the men that ran this old beast before me!

[@costrio]

Caterpillar tractors have always been an American icon since I was a child. People know more about cars than the big equipment so it is out of the ordinary. Having said that, I don't think it's enough for more than a passing glance, for most folk. What makes it good is how you explain every step, admit your mistakes, and ask for input from your fans. Your presentation is excellent, the camera work is spot on, you give good safety tips and you don't lose your cool, like I would after rapping my knuckle against hard steel. I had never heard of a pony motor before, but it makes sense. You are on a voyage of discoveries and we are tagging along for the ride. Thank you.

[@janmarkaltmann7636]

This is One of the best Feedbacks i ever read in youtube

[@SalvageWorkshop]

Well Olivier, im glad you're along for the journey with me! I truly appreciate your feedback and im glad you are enjoying rescuing this old piece of history with me! Stick around, LOTS more to come!

[@Sundancer268]

DO NOT use Copper Anti-Sieze any where near or on Aluminum, it will cause Galvanic Corrosion and you will be sorry down the road. Copper Anti-Sieze is great any where else, just not on Aluminum, please remove it and use the silver stuff. I keep both types in my shop and have had no issues since I learned this lesson the hard way.

[@davidelliott5843]

I’ve seen other folks say this but the high solids copper/carbon stuff I use has been superb on stainless bolts into aluminium. Zero corrosion on stuff that was previously seized solid. That’s my experience. I make no claims for how or why it’s worked so well.

[@iamthetarget52]

Glad you said that. I feel the same, no copper with aluminum.

[@Sundancer268]

@@bluejar5614 This is not my experience, when I got my Pick-up from my sister, she had just had new tires installed on the Aluminum Rims, 8-10 years later, I could not get the rims off without beating them with a long 2x4 and a 10# sledge Hammer. I found the shop had used Copper Anti-Seize on the hub assembly and it was seized to the rim. All four rims were like that to some degree or another. I have had similar issues with Copper Anti-Seize and Aluminum, just not as bad as the Pick-up as the parts were not in use as long. Maybe it is different where you are, but in Michigan, we use salt on the roads and that makes a good electrolyte to destroy parts. With the other formulations on steel & iron, I don't see the corrosion. Parts not coated, like fenders and other body parts are always rust damaged.

[@jimoakley4944]

The thermostat controls the water flow. If you do not have a thermostat in place, it lets the water flow without having time to let the radiator do its job to cool the water so the water is circulating without getting cooled down by the radiator and just recirculates the hot water back into the engine. Love watching your progress

[@busterkeaton3144]

Heavy Equipment Ed.. Running hot ... Density coolant test must be done with a coolant hydrometer ...any automotive parts store will have one. Water mix 60/40 Hydrometer reading -28...-30 Celsius. To adjust add water to the pail and must be stirred. Big radiators huge payloaders sample taken from bottom of radiator as I learned this in a 2 year heavy equipment course..

[@oldunclemikewoodruff4463]

The thermostats are needed to slow the coolant down so that heat transfer can take place. Heat transfer is not instant, so the coolant must have time to absorb heat in the engine and lose it in the radiator. I hope this helps. Keep the videos coming.

[@tarstakars]

Absolutely correct, without a thermostat all engines run hot depending on the weather or vehicle speed and since that old cat just crawls the fan can't move enough air without thermostatic control.

[@cumminsnchevy]

Agreed with all coolant flow restriction for heat transfer, newer engines have the restrictors built into the head gasket that I have seen several times in engine rebuilds but not in the older engines, they rely on the thermostat or thermostats for the correct amount of coolant restriction.

[@norwegiangadgetman]

No, the important thing about a thermostat is that it stops liquid from circulating until the engine reaches a working temperature. Remove a thermostat and the engine will just heat up much slower, and will end up smoking and using more fuel. IT will NOT overheat unless there's another issue in the system. If it was just to slow liquid down to allow heat transfer, all they'd had to do was install narrower hoses to begin with. Heat transfer isn't happening at one single spot in the engine, but all the way from the water enters the engine through the lower hose and until it leaves though the thermostat housing and the upper hose. I have run engines without thermostats, and particularly diesels will run cold.

[@slainesmith]

@@norwegiangadgetman Fully agree...a well known antidote to overheating is to remove the T'stat.

[@IO-zz2xy]

@@norwegiangadgetman That is my understanding of thermostats as well. Regards from South Africa

[@dennislaws5187]

My dad owned a smaller version of that same machine, A 933G 4cyl hand clutch, reverser lever and the backwards dump lever, when I was 13, I moved thousands of yards of dirt then, and more later when he got a 955H series, with power shift and pedal steer. Then a 955K and later a 955L. I wish I had a 933G now, I enjoy operating those old monsters.

[@paulorchard7960]

Good to see the old cat doing some work for the first time in many years! As for running hot, once it has functioning thermostats that problem will likely go away, at the moment the coolant is flowing to fast to efficiently cool the engine, don’t worry, it shouldn’t be a problem! Fix that, the pony motor plug clearance and maybe a few hydraulic hoses and leaks and its ready for years of trouble free work! Its a gem!

[@joedingman4181]

Great series on this old machine you resurrected the dead and kept it out of the scrapyard bravo sir….

[@jdmccorful]

The "reciprocity of life's journey is never ending. Today you doing tomorrow you watching. Thanks for the look.

[@marksshed1100]

Without the thermostat in place, restricting the coolant flow, the coolant goes through the radiator too fast to get cooled efficiently. Even when the thermostat is fully open, it will still slow down the flow.

[@jimthode]

If you look at the thermostat the bottom part controls the bypass. Without the thermostat the bypass is open and the flow is not directed through the radiator. I have a similar thermostat on a Hercules engine. I converted it to a "normal" thermostat but did restrict the bypass so it works fine. Too much flow thorough the radiator will not cause it to run hot.

[@davidelliott5843]

Too much flow through radiator causes engine to run too cool. Not good as it never reaches normal operating temperature.

[@dimievers5573]

Since it's a dual thermostat in one housing I would put one back in there so you atleast will have a little bit of restriction to get the machine up to some sort of working temperature

[@duanecook1]

You are absolutely correct

[@FangBlah]

@@jimthode Too much flow will cause the fluid to not stay in the radiator long enough for heat transfer and get heat soaked; the fluid gets hotter and hotter.

[@jimclark576]

An old farmer I worked for plumbed his bucket to dump when you pulled back on the lever because he was used to an old manual trip style loader. I could never get used to it.

[@SalvageWorkshop]

I have considered doing that... I should be able to just switch the hydraulic hoses that feed the control lever...I get why they did it that way, but it is difficult to get used to!

[@IconicSpitters]

Living over here in South West UK 🇬🇧 I have been following your videos for a long time .. loving Big Red and Big Bad John .. keep these old machines running .. well done .. your videos are excellent to watch 👏👏👍😉🤓

[@The-Deadbolt-Deputy]

I can’t believe how fast this rig was going in only 3rd gear. Wow. You did an awesome Job on this loader. It’s satisfying to me when everything is officially working and all points are greased. Thanks for sharing

[@SalvageWorkshop]

I couldn't believe it either... cant wait to try out 5th gear!

[@73DiamondReo]

great feeling rescuing this old iron.

[@KBrown517]

What I enjoy most is your persistence and willingness to ask for help. To say nothing about your skills.

[@gordonagent7037]

Fantastic viewing and learning experience. This has to be the most complete machine I’ve ever seen as a barn find. Bloody well done

[@lorrainedimmock4096]

Noticed that as she warms up, really Powerful.....shifting the dirt well.....

[@mabloodhound]

I'm always pleased to see an Eagle Scout doing great work. Matt at Diesel Creek is also an Eagle. I spent 25 years in Scouting and always notice a lot of You Tubers are scouts.

[@SalvageWorkshop]

I learned a LOT in scouts and have NEVER regretted finishing scouts! There is definitely something to be said about Eagle Scouts!

[@mabloodhound]

@@SalvageWorkshop So glad to read that. I am 80 years old and still use a lot of my scouting experience every day. Keep it up.

[@Fatamus]

I wrote several articles on ACMOC regarding thermostats in the D318 I found with a little bit of help they worked adequately. The Gates 33388 dose have a small 1/16" hole for a bypass in the seat C.; If you like one can drill an 1/8" hole in the lid of the valve to allow more coolant to bypass.Drill a hole mid way between seat and spring in lid so not to interfere with seat nor spring. Also the brass flange has a bit thinner OD at A. which can be made up by a thin o-ring to help center the thermostat in the housing. As well the brass fling at B. is 0.136 thinner and can also be made up by a thick o-ring to fill the gap - when torquing down housing be sure not to block bypass in seat with o-ring or gasket.. Ooo the lower bypass .... lower part that controls the coolant bypass circuit .... after looking at the manual again I see what you mean. I'll keep doing some research and get back with you on that ..... so far i read the bypass circuit dose have a flow but a diminished flow after thermostats open. The coolant was not drained out of the thermostat housing so I did not get a look inside the housing. I did stick my finger around to see if there was a slot for the bottom of the OEM thermostats to set in but there was nothing of the sort. Thermostat p/n 5H957 (8T14759 - 8T14774 & 8T14776-up) later version of the 8F881-T which I believe has the part that controls the coolant bypass circuit in the housing 2H72491

[@blairfright9622]

After working on many diesel powered compressors I found that by removing the thermostats they will run hotter as the bypass circuit is not being used. This allows the coolant returning to rad a chance to drop temp before returning to cool motor. In other words you need the thermostats in place.

[@Fatamus]

​@@blairfright9622 Yup, You are completely right. There are several styles of Thermostats housings (Cat calls them Regulators) even on the D318 in the same prefix e.g. 8T, D6. One of the main differences is when the thermostat opens the bypass circuit closes. That is the big brass ring moves in the way of the bypass opening in the same movement the circuit (valve) opens to the radiator. Another style housing (even on the D318) used the thermostat (5H0957 175*F) without the big brass ring and the bypass is regulated by a 1/16th" hole in the thermostat valve lid and/or an extra port on the side of the thermostat housing, mine is connected to the cab heater. Other Cats use different methods of bypassing so refer to your manual. You have to be careful and think about how things I was wrong when I thought the spring operated the opening of the thermostat valve. I found out on on ACMOC that the thermostat is actually operated via a gas inside the the brass bellows on the bottom of the thermostat that are sensitive to heat. These Thermostats have a little o-ring that can be replaced. The manual even shows how to make a tool to collapse the thermostat so you can replace the o-ring if the thermostat gets sticky and stays open. How the thermostats are to be tested is to suspend them in water and slowly bring up the heat and keep an eye on the temp. A 175°F thermostat should start opening at 166°F midway open at 175°F and wide open at 188°F. lots of reasons for over heating pony needs to be well purged, pony could have the wrong style intake manifold gaskets, pony and main engine water jackets could be restricted/plugged with sediment, Water Pump could need attention valve lash off injection timing off NORMALLY when you pull the thermostats an engine runs at a temp too cold to maintain proper temp and runs poorly. ALSO Depending on the way it is plumed it can also over heat if the thermostats are removed.

[@blairfright9622]

Thank you sir . Yes there are several factors that could be causing over heat condition as you mentioned , purge , plugged rad . But I think the logical choice is the thermostats.

[@SalvageWorkshop]

Thanks for all the help Dan! Your thread on ACMOC regarding the thermostats on your motor grader with the D318 is the reason i purchased 2 Gates 33388 thermostats... i got one in the mail so far and i was curious, did you have to create any kind of shim or spacer to hold the newer Thermostats into the housing? Or did they just fit and you just installed the water neck? Also like you addressed, the newer gates dont have a block off for the bypass circuit, and so would i even need to drill a hole in the thermostats to get the engine to cool properly since the bypass will always be open? I am about 90% sure i DO have a large bypass channel in the thermostat housing, because i drained the compartment and could see it... ill prolly do that again on camera when i get back to dealing with the thermostats on the macine, and ill show it to you then!

[@Fatamus]

​@@SalvageWorkshop I am so glad you have consulted ACMOC. I have several health issues and am in lot of pain these days. I thought I had made a video on the thermostats (stat) but now I can not seem to find it online. I will redo and re-post the video. Sorry In short Yes, the Gates 33388 stat needs to be centered in the housing AND because the stat is thinner you will also need to secured it to the bottom of the stat hosing . I used a thick 1/4" x 3/8" cork gasket (I had from Harley project) on top of the stat to hold it into place. An 1/8" x ??id O-ring could also be used to hold the stat centered and secured. I should have the video up by morning. Good luck

[@kerrygleeson4409]

Still digging like a new machine thanks for sharing 🦘👍

[@chuckmcatee9000]

Man, Big Bad John really travels! And I love that you pick names which honor the machine's history, that's awesome!

[@matthewpatstone5933]

The longer you were operating that beauty of a machine the more you were getting into the groove of it👍

[@SalvageWorkshop]

Yeah, give me a few more hours running it and I'll be quite a bit better! It sure is a workout with all the different things you have to manually control, but I'm ok with that!

[@fernandoscrenci4874]

Big Bad John is looking good!!👍🏻

[@greypoet2]

All the time I've watched you, I've waited for the day you put out regular content. Knew it would come. You have a lot of very interested and curious followers that love the work you do. You're doing work the rest of us are envious of. You're right, looks like you have a coolant flow problem. Wish I had the smarts to figure out what, but you will. Be blessed.

[@jstutzman1301]

Another channel that proves that Scouts can do anything. Because failure is not a barrier, it is the best teacher.

[@SalvageWorkshop]

It sure does pay to be prepared, that's for sure!

[@brianhoway5042]

I remember an old timer telling me the thermostats worked backwards and some of this equipment that’s why there’s two of them. That when they actually got hot they closed and it sent the water where it needed to cool the engine, memory serves me.

[@rebootonthetrail51]

Two of my favorite KZbinrs, Salvage Workshop and Diesel Creek are fellow Eagle Scouts. Way to represent the club guys! Boys Life magazine should do an article on your success.

[@brettrobinson3636]

My thoughts as to why it got so hot is because the water did not have time to cool in the radiator. So it was constantly recirculating around the system. Being that it's not going down a road at speed there's not really air flowing through the radiator like in a vehicle. Awesome revival series btw. I think everyone should experience something like operating old equipment to show how much easier we have it now days.

[@dianemcewen8922]

My father worked for Rochester gauges who was a supplier to cat for all their gauges he used to call on them in the late 40s and 50s and bring souvenirs home for us .when there was fair or equipment show he would look to see whose gauges were on it.There is someone Making repro Rochester gauges.i think thermostats on the end have a mixture of wax and copper enclosed in copper which is heat sensitive and that goes bad.great vid ,really enjoy them and the dogs.mike

[@waynetrain8033]

Nice job learning to shift those sticks. The Ol ‘ Cat sounds good

[@roadlizardcu8664]

Agree with the circulation issues other commenters addressed, one simple thing to check is the radiator cap which maintains the pressure in the system and could also effect flow.

[@bensymington5550]

Thanks for the video looks like you’re having fun out there

[@csnelling4]

I believe the coolant pressure is controlled by the “pressure relief valve” (PRV on an early video) not that type of rad. Cat cap😉

[@rbmccloskey]

Check that the cooling system is obtaining AND maintaining it's design pressure. If it is not it will run hot. My 977L was running hot, I was told it needed a head gasket, a $2,500 repair, by a mechanic. I replaced a $12 radiator cap, problem solved.

[@bobwyder4344]

I truly enjoy your show keep up the good work recovering old equipment and making it useful again thank you very much for being a special person to do stuff like that God bless you Bob

[@kennethhall5070]

Great video, again I appreciate your diligence in working through the problems that crop up. Sign of an outstanding mechanic, not to mention your raisin.

[@walterlamb4756]

Keep up the great work! I liked your comment “Be Prepared”, with the flat tire. Congratulations on being an Eagle Scout!!!

[@ArezusUA]

🎶 Everyday I’m shoveling… shoveling… 🎶

[@tfatcher]

I have no first hand big equipment experience but remain fascinated by your projects and skills.

[@tinamorris3512]

I really enjoy your videos on the big old machinery

[@bombardier3qtrlbpsi]

Great job. Bringing USA made equipment back to life.👍👍

[@jamesjenkins81]

It looks like those thermostats are a "Controlled By-pass type". This means they must be fitted into the housing to prevent the cooling water by-passing back to the engine block, instead of going into the radiator to be cooled. IE - the water will take the path of least resistance.

[@l0jack]

Love these old Cats. Working for a home builder in the late 70s as a teen I was fortunate to have the opportunity to run a 52 D2 dozer and a 49 D2 that had latch tripped bucket operated by a rope. I got to know the machine well as there was always s something to fix, pony motor repairs clutch replacement, track swapping, steering clutch adjustments etc. We also had a 1950 Cat 212 grader and a 1960 international ten wheel and 1958 six wheel dump truck, none of which were road worthy and were only used on the housing tracts. The best machine was our new 72 Cat 955K track loader. Yours looks to be a predecessor of the 977 loader which was a beast.

[@greggoin2232]

Being a retired Operator the older machines have a grease fitting on the water pump itself. Love your Project!!!! Good luck!!

[@harrykeel8557]

Good to see an old Cat back running. Just love the sound of those old machines running.

[@midgetrace]

My friend had a #6 about 50 years ago. We always referred to it as the Shovel Dozer.

[@royfetherston2998]

There never is a " word of no struggle in life move forward and learn something new today! "

[@MakinEndsMeet69]

Yeah you are right about not having thermostats in running a cooler temperature at the beginning but the hotter the motor gets the hotter the water gets without thermostats all they do is cycle cool water into the engine from the radiator and warm water into the radiator so it can be cooled. So keep in mind not to run it that long, I do understand you have thermostats coming and it is only temporary thank God. I've seen a lot of people just pull their thermostats out and let me tell you that is just an accident waiting to happen. Great job on the machine and many blessings to you and your family as always.

[@Dave-1277]

This channel is truly and inspiration. Really love seeing all of these rescue and recoveries! Great job and keep the content coming!

[@jamesdearman814]

she's a beast old big bad john - thanks for saving her.

[@FOOKYOUTUBENUMBERS]

Great series! Been a fan for a good while Keep up the great work! My 8year son loves Your Channel; He comes an jumps on My knee to watch Your vids soon as I get a notification, He's got autism and gets distracted a lot, very quickly but on Your vids He doesn't move of My knee the whole vid... Thank from both of us Big Hi from Liverpool UK

[@SalvageWorkshop]

I love that! Glad you're both able to enjoy the vidoes together! Thanks for the support! Lots more to come!

[@GIITW.5OKC]

I feel like the end clips (digging) is the grown up equal to playing in the sand box with toys.

[@SalvageWorkshop]

Big Boy TOYS!

[@jeroen1836]

I will stick around! So please don’t let me wait to long 👍👊🤗

[@huathai8204]

Thermostat stuck open means no problems short terms but big problems long term. Replacing it with new one is required.

[@youseetime]

Really enjoyed watching Big Bad John do his thing.

[@johnboysantics7799]

That zerk on the water pump is suppose to get a parafin based grease and they usually get greased with regular grease and it plugs up the radiator. Have had that come up on multiple old machines I have worked on.

[@hughbryant1326]

Great fun watching this machine come to life. Hugh Somerset UK

[@mcfwelding]

that thing is a beast! anti seize also works on gaskets like the grease you put on the water pump flanges

[@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP]

*@**19:55* Double-nut remove studs. Stuff oil soaked rags into opening. Large sheet of wet sand papers #400, #800, #1k with WD-40 as sanding lubricant, get a 2x4 as a sanding block. "Deck" the surface. Please use Permatex Gasket Dressing, lightly smeared into clean gaskets to rubberize & renew. Let dry 10 minutes, then assemble. Wait 5-6 hours before exposure to fuels, oils, or pressure or vacuum. Never leak.

[@rong-man1502]

This really a great piece of equipment. It’ll do just about anything needing to be done on a farm. Don’t know whether its still got the reliability for full time road construction work, but farm maintenance, ya boy!

[@oleukeman]

Probably not an abacus, more likely slide rules. Good job. Keep ‘em coming.

[@SalvageWorkshop]

Abacus sure sounded better....lol!

[@corydriver7634]

@@SalvageWorkshop 😂True. Not a word you use everyday?

[@skipstein744]

Success and more to come! Hey! Hey!!

[@normhowes2975]

Put the old thermostats back in making sure they are in the open position and try again. Coolant/water needs time to transfer heat and the open thermostats are just there to restrict flow. Learned this the same way like you just did.

[@ClintsHobbiesDIY]

If the thermostat is stuck open, condensation will build up in the crankcase and the oil will turn milky white. The engine doesn't get hot enough to evaporate the condensation. Been there done that many years ago.

[@Colonel169]

Love the videos and keep them coming!!! On a side note. When digging into soild pile of dirt like this. As your bucks starts to fill and you get close to the pile start raising the bucket as you move forward. Not only will you get a full full bucket. But it's also alot easier on your machine and all the joints on the arms

[@jackrichards1863]

You're the first to notice that I've read so far. And you are right!

[@stumpy2816]

Really enjoy watching you work on these old historical machines. 👍👍

[@TheLuapsch]

Incredable work. Love watching you get these beauties back working instead of leaving them to rot.

[@benclark5225]

love the growly sound of the diesel as its under load. Reminds me of Lurch the butler on the Addams family.

[@davidaylsworth8964]

I’ll join the chorus by saying I enjoy the multi-part projects. Interesting old machines.

[@greghoward6305]

So cool to see old work horses come back to life. It sure keeps you busy in the drivers seat.

[@timothyargento8457]

good job. nice to see the old equipment moving

[@HowIDoItFaM]

Big Bad John looking strong in the field!

[@sarkisiangeorge]

I love the opening scene of driving through farm country. This is what heaven on earth looks like to me.

[@jjohnson2553]

If the bucket dumps when you pull back on the bucket lever, I'd bet someone has reversed the lines on the bucket control at some point. I've run quite a few different machines over the years including some vintage stuff and never seen a bucket control operate reverse from what they normally are whether it's a track loader, rubber tire loader, or just a tractor with a bucket on it. Even skid steers with foot bucket controls you step on the front of the pedal to dump it. It's intuitive.

[@jackrichards1863]

Yes that does sound right. I've run some loaders and diggers & it is arranged in an intuitive manner. Even a horse drawn sickle bar mower I operated was controlled in such a manner though it was completely leverage and levers (mechanical). Another onr is the hoses smashing the spark plug off. The bend is up instead of down making the bend flex in the wrong direction.

[@SalvageWorkshop]

No the controls are factory... in The manual for my 1956 Cat 955 "Old Red" is says the contols are that way so that you can pull back on both levers to lift the boom and dump the bucket at the same time, which would make loading trucks easier and "faster".... its still hard to get used to, so i might switch the hydraulic lines that feed the bucket whick should change the bucket to curl when pulled back & not dump! We'll see! Either way, its how it was designed!

[@rbmccloskey]

The loader controls on the machine are correct, that is standard on all Caterpillar crawler loaders. This arrangement allows you to raise and dump the bucket at the same time and lower the bucket and return to the dig position by simply pushing both levers forward at once. I have run every Caterpillar crawler loader and they all operate this way.

[@robertrevering5699]

I have found this to be true in my experience also.

[@4GSR]

I've enjoyed this series so good I think I'm going to go drag out my Tonka bulldozer and go play in the dirt pile! Much enjoyed! Thanks for sharing. Ken

[@tct855]

You and Big Bad John are the men! 👍👍 Thanx Thom...

[@christopherputland3640]

Proper vintage power. Well done for resurrecting it.

[@jamestrump9593]

Big Bad John is almost as old as I am. I wish I still work that hard, Can't wait to see what other surprises you have in store for us.

[@marjoriepickett750]

the thermostates keep the coolant in the radiator so the fan can pull air enough in to cool the coolant .if it circulates to fast it wont get have a chance too cool enough.

[@porksdumptruckservice]

Cat Classic & Cat Yellowmark are good places to look for antique cat parts & new old stock items

[@twodrbenz]

Awesome series! Saving these old machines is a worthy cause. Keep up the great work !!!

[@merlepatterson]

Down the road, you might even look into welding on some grousers for those flat track pads? It looks like that tractor was fashioned for a gravel pit or a loading yard originally?

[@SalvageWorkshop]

You hit the nail on the head... ill talk a bit more about who bought this machine new and what it was originally used for in an upcoming video! I spoke to Ed, the guy i got the machine from and he told me a bit more about it's history!

[@coleve8596]

Non electrical thermostats normally work in two ways. First is encapsulated wax, which has a high expansion coefficient. Usually see them used in thermostatic radiator valves and greenhouse auto vents. They are normally utilised in lower temperature devices.The other is a bi metallic type where two dissimilar metals are attached at each end and usually formed into a coil. When heated or cooled the different expansion rates causes the bi metal to coil and uncoil to operated the stat. Yours is I think the second one, and yours in particular is a matched pair. In that the springs have a different tension set in each stat. First one opens and the second one stays closed until the machine is worked harder, then it opens to give full flow to radiator.

[@nickmaclachlan5178]

With regard to the cooling system, the Thermostats don't only regulate the temperature, they act as orifice plates to give you a pressure drop to improve the flow characteristics of what is essentially another hydraulic system. With them removed and without that pressure drop, you'll find that the water pump isn't working as efficiently as it could be. I would also suggest that the radiator won't be as efficient as it could be. Probably needs a good flush and clean out. Also if the water passages in the engine are furred up or clogged in any way, then that is going to affect the heat transfer abilities of the engine and not allow it to cool as well as it should be.......

[@oddtechman]

Congrats on an awesome series so far getting the No.6 up and running and moving dirt! It's been a pleasure to watch you work and the effort you have put into restoring these ol classics. See you on the next episode with Ol Red's bigger brother

[@richardwalters1803]

Seems to me your having far more fun than usually allowed

[@SalvageWorkshop]

Yeah I LOVE this stuff! Finally running the machine is always the best part!

[@shaunfincham9431]

If I remember correctly from when I used to rebuild radiator’s for a living that the cores on the rad get blocked and only flow in the middle of the radiator normally a good pressure wash out against the flow can shift out most of the gunk and at least help it out to cool more efficiently you might also consider a flush into the system and run it so it’s nice and hot you could then use a non contact thermometer to see what parts of the radiator are hottest and which parts are colder and not cooling effectively.

[@FrankinJax]

I used to run a track loader. i did notice that when you are going in, you tend to have your bucket at a slight up angle. This causes the machine to work harder and also, causes your tracks to slip. Try a slight down angle to help out.

[@deernutOO]

You have a real work horse there.. Nice job getting her going again. Am still looking for the pics, but that Cat is the same as used in digging out glacier till for my house in fall of 1967. Operator was having problems with overheating and water boiling. He made the mistake of opening the radiator fill cap and it blew off forcing steam up his arm under a long sleeved shirt under a heavy sweat shirt. He frantically and in pain, pulled up the shirt sleeves on that arm and a layer of skin came right along with it. Re-filled the radiator with water and he continued for another several hours moving dirt/gravel to finish the job. Dust covered skinless arm had trickles of fluid running out and down his arm. But he finished the job !!

[@gsengineering284]

Those thermostats are three-way. the copper thing on the bottom closes off the bypass, Also, Caterpillar usually calls them " regulators". That MAY make replacements easier to find.

[@1954jeremiah]

Neat old Cat Traxcavator,you'll want to be careful where you journey with those smooth pads on the tracks,that machine was possibly set up for working in a coal yard type situation, solid,semi-smooth, area to work in. The friction of the pads against the ground and weight of the machine works great on the yard,but not in wet ,muddy or snowy conditions, watch it on any kind of sidehill,stay out of the mud!😎😎😎

[@alfiversen7023]

You are becoming a source. Of old Caterpillar content. I like this series

[@jeneannekent7080]

I look forward to every video you put out. Thank you

[@05victorylly]

love seeing these old machines come back to life!