The Rise and Fall of J.Crew

J.Crew, from it's beginnings as a mail-order catalogue, through to it's brick and mortar expansion had always been a pillar of the American retail system. However, after a long series of failed revamp attempts after their preppy style fell out of style, J.Crew has simply struggled to keep up. Their logistics was too clunky to be sufficiently nimble and eventually they lost their audience. Today, though still trying to compete, the market is truly flooded with other similar, and often more desirable, brands that effectively deliver a similar product thats more desirable. There's still time before the clock runs out, but certainly since declaring bankruptcy they need another great run if they hope to survive
Beauty Channel: / @underskinyt
Patreon: patreon.com/understitch
Unless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.
Affiliate Links for Books Used:
Bullock (2023) The Kingdom of Prep: The Inside Story of the Rise and (Near) Fall of J.Crew: amzn.to/3VoCxLQ
Thomas (2019) Fashionopolis: Why What We Wear Matters: amzn.to/3V80y8r

[@sazdoxie4247]

Yup..the quality of fabrics and design and manufacture have been so subpar, it’s truly sad. I miss the old decades of JCrew.

[@understitchYT]

Its wild how thats the main thing that sells preppy or simpler clothing and it still ebbs and flows

[@peppermintpattie6006]

As with most brands 😔

[@dfinite4089]

It really was subpar for a long time. Even at the start, whether the fabric (from garment to garment) was quality or not, was always a crapshoot. Varied from style to style.

[@lyndseywilliams3618]

The sizes don’t run the same way anymore.

[@madame.banoffee]

have clothes from the 90ies, and the cost per wär form me is like pennies, they’re holding up so well. But I’m not even thinking buying stuff from them today.

[@jonathanlander3631]

Poor J. Crew. My last several trips to a J. Crew end up with me walking out empty handed shaking my head at the low quality, cheap textiles and high price points. On a happier note, the sales associates are always extremely helpful and nice.

[@understitchYT]

Low quality will never encourage people to come back 🤷 silly of them to drop it for short term profits

[@mifnp8887]

I loved JCrew in the 80s, 90s, and 2000s. They didn't skimp on the quality of their fabrics. Now, everything is thin and quite CHEAP. Sadly, Talbots will be the next to fall.

[@understitchYT]

I just hate that the quality of clothes has fallen so much, its really such a shame, but im glad theres people like Andrea Cheong (I hope I got her name right) who review clothes so customers can know whats good value

[@zingara76]

@@understitchYT Customer needs are dramatically changing and we have a big need for good quality. Andrea Wang is another “influencer” who’s focusing on teaching people about quality. Even second hand is having a revolution that’s going to demand good quality from companies. I’m very optimistic and think that the next fashion revolution is already here and fast fashion is going to die. Hopefully

[@SkipperJane]

You really see it in the coats, sweaters and shoes. I have some vintage jCrew flats that are all leather with leather sock. Made in Italy. 15 years old and still going. And the new ones… 🤢 Same with the sweaters. A JCrew merino sweater used to last a decade. The modern ones - which are more expensive with a worse fit - will last a season if you’re lucky. They’re about the quality of Uniqlo, which is why I now buy such sweaters at Uniqlo, where they cost $35-50

[@mysteriousu5528]

True. I was thinking the same. I do shop at Talbots. I love their 100% cotton, linen or wool clothing.

[@ritaroad]

Nine years ago Talbot cardigans were beautiful. They had the fabric, colors and fit. Now they’re like fast fashion.

[@tusia20_85]

Clicked so quickly 😂 J Crew has a special place in my heart. I’m Indian and when I immigrated to a western country 13 years ago, I had no idea about how to put together a western look. So I basically copied the j crew aesthetic of that time (J Lyons height of fame) and it worked! I bought so much j crew…lord!!! I still use some of its styling/fit principles. I miss the brand. I haven’t bought J crew in ages now ☹️

[@IntriguedLioness]

I agree, British born and living in both Asia and Europe when I moved to the States this was my style of dress, not sloppy jeans and not pretentious, casual prep wear! I have 30 year old sweaters I can still wear but I haven't purchased anything J crew since the late 90s😢

[@understitchYT]

Gosh, 13 years ago, you just missed out of the 90s appropriation of Indian clothing, you couldve just rocked ip in a sari and khussas and they wouldve thought you were the coolest person in the world 🤣 On a more real note, its so fascinating that fashion has that ability to communicate the desire to fit in with a crowd in that way and Im glad it helped you emigrate comfortably 🤍

[@tusia20_85]

@@understitchYT 😂

[@re7416]

​@understitchYT I remember the whole 1990's Indian thing. That...and a tie-dye / Thailand-type vibe are what made a 90's store called 'Voyage' a tonne of money.

[@tusia20_85]

@@re7416 that’s hilarious! 😆

[@zarazalazar]

LL Bean would be a good video. I always wondered about that company.

[@understitchYT]

Oh yeah for sure

[@liesbethrobison]

Greed ruins everything. Thank you for such a detailed interesting presentation. I learned a lot!

[@understitchYT]

Greed 👏 ruins 👏 everything👏

[@DamienHurts]

A new video from you is like a piping hot cuppa at the end of the day. Always a pleasure. And about J.Crew? I can't wait to watch and learn from your thorough and expansive knowledge of the fashion business. - from your number one Danish fan :)

[@understitchYT]

Im so happy to have a number one danish fan 🥰 Let me know if you liked the video

[@DamienHurts]

@@understitchYT I loved it. I didn't know much about J.Crew prior to watching your video, but I LOVE their 80's catalogue (had I been alive then, I'd have a stack of them by my bed). That preppy men's looks with the chinos and sweaters tied around their shoulders is my current style obsession (JFK Jr.'s streetwear comes to mind). And I know Jenna Lyons from her appearance on Lena Dunham's show Girls. I really like her and the woman knows how to dress, that's for sure.

[@melindadelgado4342]

100% agree! Had no idea that TPG was involved with JCrew at that time.

[@InfinitegardenbyBethK]

Great video! When I was in my late 20’s (early 2000’s) working in a business-formal environment, almost my entire wardrobe budget went to J.Crew. I felt stylish and appropriate. I think it was something like 2019 when I placed an online order and received plastic, ill-fitting clothes that I realized it was all over. Such a shame. If they’d kept the quality up and raised the prices as needed, I’d still be a customer. RIP J.Crew. You were the MVP for a long time.

[@understitchYT]

Really for a company that makes basics, as Jcrew was known, it makes no sense to make them badly because then people are not motivated to invest in them again. You’re not going to buy every colour of a T-shirt you know that will fall apart

[@InfinitegardenbyBethK]

@@understitchYT100% I used to buy up their merino Tippi sweaters and cashmere tees in the rainbow. I loved their suiting, too. The quality was aligned with the prices (to me). The faulty logic is that higher quality goods means fewer replacement sales. The reality is that I used to spend thousands annually at J Crew and now I almost never find something good enough to buy.

[@sharonhansen2935]

This was such an interesting video, thank you! I was very smitten with J. Crew during it's preppy heyday and even into Jenna's reign. Collection items were so amazing, often very fashion forward and always great quality. I still have a few. This era of J. Crew spawned entire online communities devoted to the retailer, like the now-defunct blog J. Crew Aficionado. People shared reviews, sizing tips, availability of sought-after products in local stores, and even bought, sold and traded pieces. Some of these online J. Crew lovers were even invited to fashion week shows. It's rare to see this level of devotion to a fashion retailer. Sadly, I now slot them firmly in the fast fashion category, more akin to Forever21 than they are to even Banana Republic. I haven't shopped J. Crew in years.

[@understitchYT]

Youre so right that its rare to see for a high street label. That kind of devotion and fandom is often found in more luxury houses, or smaller brands because they’re so generous to the people that helped the company find its footing. But often those loyal customers get overlooked by mass fashion brands today.

[@afilmodyssey9814]

This channel is so good. You provide so much valuable insight and an insane amount of research. I hope you know this doesn't go unnoticed across all your viewers!

[@understitchYT]

I’m so glad you think so, I was at fashion week this season in London and so it seems like things are on the up for me 🥰, it’s very humbling

[@miffyhao]

i recently started my first year of fashion design and im so glad i found your amazing channel !! i would really like to get more and more educated about fashion and history, so your videos are super helpful and i love them tysm 😙🩷

[@understitchYT]

Im so glad, always happy to see new talent

[@MLGBGermany]

I live in Germany now and was raised in Italy. I heard of J.Crew before but that's basically it. It kind of seems like the equivalent of Benetton? Which, btw, deserves a video! Benetton holds a special place in my heart.

[@understitchYT]

Yeah its really similar to benetton imo, j.crew is obviously more american, but yeah quite close

[@stsbk]

I worked at J. Crew during the Drexler days. Being from inner city Philly, I felt out of place at first. So many rich kids coming into the Charleston store. But looking back, the brand was at its peak in those days and unstoppable (around 2004). That catalog! RIP classic J Crew-isha 😂. Always such good content on this channel!

[@understitchYT]

Did you meet him? What was he like?

[@stsbk]

@@understitchYT I never met him. However, what I do remember is that he called the store and personally left voicemails for me a few times. Somehow, customers would contact corporate and leave glowing reviews for me and he would acknowledge it each time. He did this for all the stores. What CEO does that? I was so happy and even wrote him a letter (that the general manager never sent to him, because I was Black and they were big time haters in South Carolina). He added amazing energy to the brand that you didn’t have to meet him to experience or feel. Good time, good times!

[@AMH3814]

Im 33 and getting tired of fast fashion clothing. Im transitioning to a more mature style which is causing me look at J.Crew. I want clothes that are classic with a little bit of trend but still good quality. Im pretty sure other ppl my age are starting to feel this way so maybe J. Crew might have a up tick in sales soon. Overall, i think since millennials are getting older, we’re stepping away from fast fashion and wanting better quality clothing. Hopefully, the fashion industry picks up on that and creates a space and/or solution for this.

[@understitchYT]

Do you know what’s interesting, given that brands need to make a profit these days, I feel like you can find those basic comments in basically any brand. A lot of its styling.

[@wvanderwahl]

I used to shop J Crew all the time then the styling became stale. The stores all looked the same and the merchandising did not change. It was the same season after season. On another note, I did not care for Jenna Lyons who was being treated like a celebrity by the press. I moved over to Club Monaco & Theory.

[@understitchYT]

Theory still does surprisingly well too, but unlike J.Crew they have a notable presence in Asia. Their foreplanning of that has been so smart, probably something j.crew shouldve done🤷

[@t-pain1827]

Would love for you to do a video on Kimora Lee Simmons and Baby Phat!

[@understitchYT]

I got quite a few requests for that recently, the next two/three are planned but maybe after that

[@re7416]

​@@understitchYT Would like to add 3 'to the queue' 😅 ▪︎ Christian Lacroix. (Sure - It probably failed b/c it wasn't selling enuff merchandise 2 become financially viable.) But how did it get to that? (B/c 2 my mind, they were joyous, artisanal, idiosyncratic apparell.) And which consumer wouldn't want that? (Also felt they missed a trick by not being stocked @ *Liberty) * Liberty = An upmarket Dept Store...somewhat quirkly...and based in London. ▪︎ Charles Jordan - A luxe shoe brand; big in the 70's and 80's. Then dropped off the radar.... ▪︎ A premium...'Made in Germany' womenswear brand. Which seemed 2 go into freefall after the death of its founder. At one point, it was owned by Meghan Mittal. (Of the Mittal family.) I I remember being surprised that with her fabulous wealth...she was unable to turn the brand around.

[@stellamaxwell777]

The problem is the price is astronomical and the quality and design is complete sh!t. No one in their right mind would buy that full price, so they rely on the sales. But I also wonder how much inventory is just thrown in the trash bc it’s already disintegrating on the rack. They could have improved the quality and style and have regained a wealthier clientele willing to spend more and a more middle class clientele willing to invest in quality-this, actually, would have been a fantastic differentiator as it’s difficult to find good quality fabrics and construction now even from designer labels-but they had already alienated this entire clientele and was unwilling to win them back. I wonder how much of this is J.Crew’s fault and the shifting market vs how much of this is just internal gouging from the private equity companies that owned them.

[@understitchYT]

Certainly, J.crew is decently to blame because by not having a consistent product quality they lose that reliability that customers can come back for

[@stellamaxwell777]

@@understitchYT when I was in high school/secondary school I went to boarding school and everyone there wore almost exclusively J.Crew. The American WASPs respected it so much because for a period of time the quality was really that fantastic and the style seemingly so classic or at least aiming for timelessness.

[@MaggieMay1013]

Yes! I worked at J Crew in college in the 2000s. The clothing was somehow young and fresh but also classic, and the quality was excellent. I bought my first real business casual/professional wardrobe from J. Crew, and that clothing lasted. Then something shifted, and there was a slow but steady downhill trend. I remember this pair of khakis I had and a few tops that I wore all the time. I would buy OG J Crew immediately if it was available again.

[@understitchYT]

To me, it was really good how they translated that Christopher Kane neon energy into something that was salable for their audience

[@margaretfederal5099]

The era of J Lyons was the pinnacle. I bought so many beautiful things that were so special. Then they got rid of her and I stopped shopping there. I've seen it go downhill since.

[@CRFSUIGENERIS]

I agree! She combined quirk and classic style. Definitely my taste!

[@understitchYT]

She always had a really good mix of interesting things and basics, that I always really appreciate

[@dotythrift]

Such a shame, as preppy 80’s style will be trending soon enough and they were the original.

[@understitchYT]

I think its coming back too, Im already buying blazers and ties

[@russ6362]

I’m in UK and stopped shopping with J.Crew when they started to charge stupid money to return online orders.

[@understitchYT]

Free returns has long been very important for online/mail order

[@EXOL_1485]

Just made a cup of coffee. Perfect timing! Hope you're having a great day as well

[@understitchYT]

Ah it's perfect! Let me know if you like it :)

[@markjohnson2257]

Thanks for the deep dive. I didn't really follow J. Crew during their early days. I started to pay attention to them when Jenna Lyons came on the scene. They had A LOT of hype during this time. I was shocked that Jenna was unable to get another high profile job in the fashion industry when her time at J Crew was over.

[@understitchYT]

I would imagine she probably could have quite easily, I wonder if the timing just wasnt right or if she chose to bow out because she likes RHONY so much 🤣

[@oruga9737]

I feel Anthropologie is also dying. would love to know their story

[@understitchYT]

Yeah I see that too, such a shame

[@vancouvervixen4253]

Oh yeah I completely agree. The last few times I’ve been in I’ve walked out with a candle… and thought huh, something’s wrong here lol

[@NadaNada-se8pq]

There was a long stretch of time in the late aughts to early-mid 2010s when, without exaggerating, I could say that at least half of my wardrobe came from J. Crew, both for workwear and casual wear. I’m not sure who they’re trying to appeal to now, but I’m definitely no longer their target demographic, because nothing appeals to me. I don’t care if it’s no longer on trend - I would still happily purchase the classic J. Crew preppy style! Btw, I would love to see a full video on Madewell. Also, while we’re on the topic of classic heritage American labels, pleeeaaaase consider doing a video on Brooks Brothers. That’s another brand that has tragically lost its way, and I still actively miss the Red Fleece line. Love your videos 🩷💕 They’re the perfect balance of education and entertainment!

[@understitchYT]

Can I ask who youve transitioned onto now? (Also totally agree brooks would make a great video

[@NadaNada-se8pq]

@@understitchYT I honestly haven’t found another brand that could reliably deliver styles that I liked. I started to buy a lot more workwear from Brooks Brothers, especially after the launch of Red Fleece, but that line seems to have been quietly retired at some time during the earlier part of the pandemic 😭 This also happens to be when I transitioned to work-from-home, so I’ve purchased next to no workwear since 2020. I should find out if there are any support groups for others going through prep withdrawal - prepaholics anonymous? Even the (very mild) resurgence of neo-prep seems to be mostly limited to menswear, so shopping hasn’t been nearly as fun for a long time.

[@jacobbwalters8133]

@@understitchYT I was in that boat as well- I have mostly switched to LL Bean for casual fall and winter wear and Suitsupply for suiting. I also really like Onia and Brooks Brothers and I will occasionally still buy J. Crew for cheap summer casual clothes (especially shorts because they sell a five inch inseam). Thankfully, the old J. Crew items I have have held up well, but the new stuff I doubt will last as long.

[@understitchYT]

Have either of you tried Jack Wills? They used to be amazing quality in the 210s, but I haven’t heard anything of them in years.

[@jacobbwalters8133]

@@understitchYT I have not.

[@KNEELbeforeZ0D]

In 2005-2006, the Creative Director of Clothing was Everick Brown. He worked on his first collection of clothing & was fired before it reached the stores. He was replaced by Jenna Lyons. She became part of almost all branding in NYC for J. Crew in the subway & posters throughout NYC. I found her focus in the posters insufferable. Everick Brown then went into his own Furniture Store EBHome (which I initially helped with branding).

[@understitchYT]

The book actually goes into this and how he ended up leaving really well. I didnt choose to touch on it for time’s sake 🥰

[@bradleyduncan5892]

Thank you so much for this. I'm searching for vintage J Crew on eBay right now! This might be a good time for me to request a video idea that's been on my mind for a long time: the rise and fall of Brooks Brothers. You could do an incredible job with it. The entire history of the Ivy League Look, and many other styles, all in one brand with a remarkable history. I would love you see you analyze it all. Thanks again for your great videos!

[@understitchYT]

Lots of request for Brooke brothers, I really think I need to make that video, but I have the next few planned, so no promises for imminency just yet 😅 (two videos a month really limits the quantity of brands, but Id like to think I have quality instead 🥰)

[@ashlynelliott]

A J Crew closed down near me and I walked out with 2 bikinis and 2 pair of jeans for $18 total😳

[@understitchYT]

Oh shame about the closure, but great for the sale!

[@thetropics8238]

While I was working for a fashion NGO, J.crew were the few companies that actually donated their excess materials for us to repurpose them and even donated clothes for us to fund for Tsunami victims. Sad to see them struggle 😔

[@understitchYT]

Oh I didnt know that, thats so kind. And how becoming of them not to shout it from the rooftops

[@thetropics8238]

@@understitchYT Ya, back in the 2000's era. Not sure there was a change in management thereafter but had heard about J.crew through our non-profit designer/founder

[@teerose76]

I would love if you did a video on Banana Republic someday, I have a soft spot for them. I love your videos!

[@sachacombs7400]

I loveeee J Crew, I will not stop shopping there. I get clothes for my frequent Caribbean vacations. Amazing finds for the office and casual tees etc for a busy career woman, running errands on a day off ❤❤

[@understitchYT]

No need to stop shopping there if you enjoy it for sure

[@LuisPerez-uy7es]

These videos make my day better!! Thank you ❤❤❤

[@understitchYT]

Im so glad! 🥰

[@CalmEverAfter]

Really well edited and thoroughly researched video… great work- thank you!!

[@understitchYT]

So glad you enjoyed it 🥰

[@vancouvervixen4253]

I have a closet full of vintage j crew. It’s a big motivator for staying in shape lol since I can still wear things from 15 years ago that get compliments alllll the time, the quality is unparalleled. Same with Ralph Lauren, etc.

[@understitchYT]

When you buy something that’s great quality, it’s supposed to last, that’s why so many people are disappointed with JCrew today

[@vancouvervixen4253]

@@understitchYT I absolutely agree, the current standards have fallen drastically! This was a great video

[@dahlia_day]

I've been complaining about the decline in JCrew quality for a decade. I bought a lot of their garments in the 2000s and very early 2010s because they were classic styles and silhouettes often with a twist, like an unusual color. I've never followed trends and I'm willing to spend more on items that will last longer and JCrew no longer fits the bill. For a while, I replaced it with Biden, but that brand seems to have followed JCrew's failing business model. Both switched away from nice wool and classic designs to tons of jersey dresses and disposable t-shirts, essentially disposable fast fashion for a higher price that H&M or Shein. I've taken to thrifting and sewing my own clothes, which is time-consuming. I wish I could find a good JCrew replacement.

[@understitchYT]

Theres a few people offering alternatives in the comments here, but honestly it seems like most people have nowherr to go now, which is really crappy but just shows how big of a gap there is in the market now

[@kimjohnson8471]

Hearing all these references of 80s style brings back so many fond memories. Great video ❤

[@understitchYT]

I’m so glad you enjoyed it, and I’m so glad it helped you reminisce

[@Mamitarococo69]

Another day another video from my fav channel ❤

[@understitchYT]

So happy you enjoy them 🥰

[@lauramason5667]

10 years ago I used to buy my son a lot at J.Crew for college. Everything I bought him fell apart within two or three months. The quality is horrible despite other changes in management and CEOs. I grew up in a prep background in Connecticut and I would never ever shop there. They’re done.

[@understitchYT]

Oh no thats awful. The main selling point of prep is the longevity of the clothes 😬

[@lauramason5667]

@@understitchYT Exactly. It’s fallen to the ranks of Ann Taylor and Banana Republic. It’s too bad. Remember their J Crew Collection? It was higher quality but too costly for a J Crew product.

[@mbelieve9919]

I miss the old days of J. Crew.

[@understitchYT]

It was so iconic

[@user-ou7zf9gh6s]

Love your content, keep it up ❤ In the future, could we have a Rise and Fall video on Betsey Johnson?

[@understitchYT]

Im so happy thank you! Yes, Ive begun a Betsey Johnson video a few times and it just keeps getting bumped for something more topical unfortunately

[@sunflowersundays1399]

I worked at J.Crew from Nov 2007 - Nov 2014. I have great memories of my time there. I recognized one of the videos with Mickey Drexler going into the stores, I think we watched it during a meeting 😂. Things were really changing when I left, but I'm so glad I was there for the seven years when it was good!

[@understitchYT]

How lucky have you to have seen it at its absolute height, it must’ve been either extremely fun or extremely stressful to work there

[@cricketanc]

I am a huge J. Crew fan. My 3 year old Lhasa Apso is named J. Crew! I still have a lot of catalogs from the mid 2000s. The mid 2000 style was one I desired to have. Jenna had this ability to take basic pieces and make them modern. The women’s pieces started to change a year or two before she left and I remember not liking the J. Crew style as much. I started buying more pieces from Factory. Now, I can’t remember the last time I bought an item from retail. I think it’s been almost two years in December. I think maybe I have bought two shirts in the last three years. The new head of women’s design, Olympia, is not doing any favors to the brand. I hate the current looks - cropped and boxy tops and baggy bottoms. Not for me. I will keep buying from Factory.

[@helenahenry4153]

Another brilliant video ! Can you please do a video on Isabel marant , Ferragamo and Givenchy one of these days

[@razreshi]

The quality is poor, the silhouettes are out of date, the jewelry is made of cheap materials. Very sad.

[@understitchYT]

Sad considering where it once was for sure

[@AnnaP-qk4qm]

Wonderful job in lending complete insight from a business, marketing perspective.

[@understitchYT]

Thank you so much

[@jacobbwalters8133]

I think that J Crew are really getting beat up by the return of Banana Republic and Abercrombie and Fitch. AF has targeted a more laidback, casual, younger preppy look very effectively and has successfully made themselves desirable to the early 20’s set again, while BR has gone after the young professional that was formerly J. Crews bread and butter. Their clothes generally use worse fabrics but better construction than J. Crew and undercut them slightly on price. They both adopted the muted and warmer tones of the “old money” aesthetic better than J crew, which always seems to offer very vibrant colors that are difficult to style with many outfits.

[@understitchYT]

Banana republic I have to admit isnt my favourite, I dont think the quality is enough for how repetitive their product lines are. A&F however has been really fascinating in their rebrand

[@jacobbwalters8133]

@@understitchYT I agree, their fabrics often include significant polyester blends as well as lots of nylon and elastane. I mostly avoid them. I do think their designs are more modern and curated than J.Crew, however, and I understand the draw.

[@dfinite4089]

Banana Republic uses so many cheap fabrics. Many don’t survive a wash .

[@user-di5jk8vg6l]

Such a great video, per usual...😊

[@understitchYT]

Thank you so much 🥰

[@peterciccone7709]

I loved how soft the basic tees were and the color held up great after washing.

[@understitchYT]

I wonder why we find an alternative to that now, unbranded I mean, because the uniqlo ones are really quite thick

[@808v1]

great video doc...appreciate it

[@understitchYT]

Thank you so much

[@MultiFlymetothemoon]

I took a decade of a break from buying anything from them, came back with my kids and the quality is just horrible...

[@understitchYT]

Isnt it so sad how quality has fallen so badly

[@MultiFlymetothemoon]

@@understitchYT very much so, and the change is so drastic!

[@knitworthyyarns]

Thanks for that walk down memory lane, really well done. I started as a part time sales associate in Philadelphia in Women's Classics. We would pull all nighter's doing floor moves and folding every item of clothing before a corporate visit. Aurthur and Emily even came to the store. By the time I left J. Crew about 1998, I was the Store Manager in Raleigh NC. There were some amazing years, a bit of a roller coaster at times, but I met some great people and life long friends. I still have a couple of pieces from Collection...it was my favorite line and the quality was incredible back then. I can't see a Rollneck sweater without flashbacks!

[@understitchYT]

Oh how lucky you were to see the height of JCrew! Are you still in Philly? Im dying to see the Philadelphia Art Museum

[@knitworthyyarns]

@@understitchYT I finally settled down outside of Raleigh after bouncing around opening new J. Crew stores.

[@kristinpenta]

Awww I loved my roll-up sweaters from JCrew in the mid-to-late 90s. Great documentary! Thank you for your hard work.

[@understitchYT]

So glad you liked it 🥰

[@voguevision1355]

love this! rise and fall of zac posen next please

[@HarryCopperPot]

I really loved the brand during the Jenna Lyons years, and even now looking at the runway shows from that era, it all looks so good and fun. Now when I go in there, nothing pulls me in. I leave empty-handed.

[@understitchYT]

Its wild how many people say the same thing. Theyve really lost the trust lf their customer

[@MoonLightOnWater1]

I liked the classic cuts/fabrics/clothing….as soon as they went bohemian/muffin, they lost their base.

[@understitchYT]

I think they probably could’ve been okay if they responded better to what people wanted at that time, they seem to not understand that people weren’t going to be able to return if they couldn’t find what they wanted

[@MoonLightOnWater1]

@@understitchYT the bohemian clothes were not what folks wanted….geez! I never stopped looking and just purchased quite a few pieces after looking at this vid.

[@mel-td3vr]

I had no idea J.Crew was together with madewell. I just purchased a madewell leather purse from Nordstrom last year, it was my first purchase from the brand. I had read reviews that their leather items were of good quality but also affordable. It has been my everyday bag since I bought it. I’m pretty hard on my bags and it’s still in great shape.

[@understitchYT]

Ive heard good things about the quality, but as far as I know the styles arent the most up to date. Perhaps I could say more reliable evergreen products

[@mel-td3vr]

@@understitchYT that could be, my bag is a very basic slouchy crossbody. It’s not a structured bag. I was looking for a basic everyday bag and it fit the bill.

[@indradavis1713]

I love how much research you do. You are wonderful! Would you consider covering Betsey Johnson or Anna Sui?

[@understitchYT]

I genuinely would love to cover both of these brands so much

[@heidi1000]

I am a big J.Crew fan and loved their aesthetic in the mid-2000s. Recently I feel like they sell too much stuff that is too trendy. Of course, they still have the classic pieces, but most of their stuff is trendy. Also, the prices have gone up and the quality has gone down. I still think the quality is better than like H&M but used to better for sure.

[@understitchYT]

Comparing anything to H&M is an easy win 🤣

[@barrya8981]

First, I appreciate how you attribute and recognize your sources. I’m a boomer who was swept up in the preppy craze of the late 70s, when I was in college. I looked to LLBean because of their vast range of size offerings (I’m 6’3” - 190 cm, 185 pounds - 84 kg), price, and air of old-school authenticity. J. Crew seemed too new and inauthentic. I never liked pink and lime green, but I like the comfortable and timeless preppy style, which I still wear in a modified version that isn’t so kitsch.

[@understitchYT]

The book is honestly so good, if youre wanting to read and reminisce more, it was just so good, Ive read it at least twice now Have you looked at Jack Wills for taller preppy stuff? The Im 5’10 and the clothes were always long on me so maybe its worth a try. I cant speak to their quality now because I just havent been in in years, but in the 2010s the quality was incredible

[@JetPackDino]

I love J. Crew's Liberty of London print shirts, I find them on eBay. Other than that I guess I haven't bought anything from J Crew in a while. They were everything back in the day! The supermodels in the catalogues cemented J. Crew's iconic status, for me. Interesting to learn what happened. Great video!

[@understitchYT]

Liberty’s fabrics are just on another level! When I was a kid and learning to sew literally noone in my family knew where to get good fabrics from and I ended up begging for a metre and a half of just anything to make shirts from. They were all terrible because I was 8, but god I loved the fabric. (Also, Im guessing this is why I didnt have many pokemon cards 🤣)

[@JetPackDino]

@@understitchYT lol wow it's so good to meet another Liberty fan! I'm a bit of a collector. I have some scarves, shirts, two sets of rather glorious Tana Lawn pajamas... the colors never fade! The fabric never pills, it's so silky smooth. Heaven. Expensive pajamas but so worth it. The detail & quality, about as close to perfect as it's possible to get. It's silly but I feel loved every time I wear anything by Liberty of London 😄😊

[@jsamaniego]

this channel is so good

[@understitchYT]

Thank you 🥰

[@Ggnmgjhg]

Great video!

[@understitchYT]

Thank you!

[@CharisseKenionYT]

Liked in advance cause this one is a must!

[@understitchYT]

Always appreciate you 🙌🙌

[@cassandrajosettehall]

Anyone have any suggestions for alternative clothing stores? I've found clothing even in the $100-$200 range to be horrible quality. Isn't there anywhere with quality fabric that isn't several hundred dollars per dress??

[@kimberlyperrotis8962]

I used to love J.Crew, but they’ve cheapened the fabrics too much and the styles just don’t work anymore. It’s a shame to see a once-good brand lose it. Once a brand starts using all those crappy synthetic fibers, it’s on a downhill slide.

[@understitchYT]

I think most brands have dropped their quality to be honest, but it’s most noticeable when a brand has championed itself on quality

[@jeanneriecke2353]

I worked for Jantzen in 1979-80. They went through a buy-out from Blue Bell (Wrangler) during this time period. Employees had to sell their retirement stock. Previously they had started a marker (pattern) business, making sized markers for other brands like Jones New York. Jantzen also had franchises they supplied with swimwear designs all over the world. The sale to Blue Bell started a further downward slide with a sale to Perry Ellis. They closed the men's and women's sportswear lines. They must have closed their marker making business at some point. They also had knitwear (polo shirt textile) factories in South Carolina. Their garment manufacturing went overseas, as most garment production has gone. They limited design to swimwear. Sales limped along only with swimwear onlne sales and a few other outlets. Jantzen was sold again to Florida based INC along with 30 other brands underneath Perry Ellis International. Production has increased for swimwear sales and they are making more of an effort.

[@understitchYT]

Wow Jantzen was so iconic, I didnt realise their fall was so drawn out, thank you so much

[@jeanneriecke2353]

@@understitchYT... it was sad to see it all happen in front of my eyes. I thought everybody saw $ signs (Chairman, Company Board, large stockholders and Blue Bell). Some of Jantzen management was forward looking (my boss, Jim Angell, Project Engineering). He did the computerized marker making implementation. He was also working on the computerized cutting system for the cutting rooms. It did not work well with Lycra swimsuit fabric. It works best on a low number of plies and not stretchy fabrics. Slowly parts of the company were closed...local production in Portland, Vancouver and Hood River. The marker making contract production closed. Men and women's sportswear lines closed. Only women's swimwear lines were left. The Main office and archive, in Portland, is still there. Design offices in Los Angeles and New York are probably closed. INC is based in Miami. There is a better online presence now. I still like their swimwear.

[@KiDCRuDi_]

I agree J Crew has faltered. I recently walked into a Banana Republic for the first time in more than a decade and was pleasantly surprised. The quality and styles were much better than in years past... Perhaps even J Crew, once acclaimed, can regain their footing.

[@understitchYT]

I think Brave New Wear had the best idea at the end of teh video where he said they can get a foot in with menswear tbh

[@elisshadelport2015]

Has anyone tried J Crew this Summer season?! Incredible style and quality….have purchased over a dozen pieces and loving them!

[@IntriguedLioness]

As a teen I moved to the states for uni in the mid-80s so the prep look for this British born prep / conservative style of dress was perfect. Freshman year my peers were wearing blue jeans and I just couldn't do the dungaree thing..... so J.Crew khakis and Oxford's and sweaters were my thing. I have new lived on three continents but I don't think I've purchased anything J.Crew since the late nineties. At that point I was dissatisfied with the slipping quality of the cloth which was always my first priority. I still have JCrew sweaters that I can wear 30 years later but I see nothing in the stores I would want at this point. _FYI first time viewer of a video on your channel and I'll consider subscribing! As I'm always a multitasker I definitely appreciate you putting the timeline just in a simple year/date at the bottom left of the screen. I wouldn't be paying attention and you would say something very informative and then I'd look back and instead of having to rewind there was the year that we were covering._ _Incredibly informative. Thank you!_

[@understitchYT]

Its so interesting to me that they clearly knew quality was a huge selling point for them and still on multiple occasions chose to lower it in order to widen profit margins. Really silly bcs it pushes out true preppy customers who help legitimise the company in that space 🤷 Also thank you so much, Im glad you subscribed, we have a great community of people here 🥰

[@pamelacolson310]

Jenna Lyons is a visionary to be sure. Her designs and styling were fresh and exciting. However, I feel that she took J. Crew away from what they have always represented, which is high quality (cotton, wool, cashmere, twill, tweed, oxfords, chinos, loafers etc.) clothing staples that represented a tasteful way of dressing to the more modern ideas that J. Crew came to represent. Personally, I can't afford a $400 herringbone tweed blazer, coat, cashmere sweater or loafers but I still feel that offering quality pieces is the standard for many to aspire to own. I look at Brooks Brothers, LL Bean and Lands End to compare prices of a simple cotton tee or seasonal turtle neck and most of the time J. Crew's price points are higher. With the addition of polyester and other trash fabrics, it's a hard no for a lot of their pieces for me.

[@understitchYT]

I do agree that she took the visions of the company away from what it was originally known for, but that was exactly what she was tasked to do, because they knew that the original aesthetic of the whole thing wasn’t selling anymore

[@Jennifer-my5dm]

I read Maggie Bullock's book on J. Crew last fall. I highly recommend it.

[@understitchYT]

Its brilliant! I messaged her on insta in the hopes she sees this, but no word yet

[@DanaMiller-wj9dt]

This was a fantastic tutorial.

[@AR-gg2su]

I still like JCrew for pants in tall size.

[@CogMarks]

Banana Republic and JCrew is where most of my clothes used to come from. The quality has gone to sh-, but the prices are still high. Every time I see something I want online at JCrew, the item is sold out. Always. I don’t know why they can’t predict better how many of the items they need to make.

[@understitchYT]

I think all of those brands have gone to shit kind of

[@Jacks_here]

I was wearing a grey J.Crew sweatshirt just today on my outing. Old and faded but very good quality.

[@understitchYT]

Nothing wrong with a nice patina to your clothes 🙌

[@Jacks_here]

@@understitchYT very true! :)

[@davidpachecogarcia]

I’ve always passed by jCrews but didn’t know much about them. After watching this video I feel like I’m def not their target audience. Always good to be educated in fashion from you. 🤓🙌🏽

[@understitchYT]

Yeah Im not their target market either, but I still respect the business they made and how well they planned/marketed the business (which it sounds like you do too 🥰)

[@jlasf]

I haven't read the book yet, but the history recounted here varies from my own personal experience. I ran a hot advertising agency and was approached by Arthur Cinader to manage a redesign of the company image and look. The story I heard was that Emily, while at college, was bringing home simple "prep" designs her friends were wearing. Arthur gave her some space to launch the new line, piggybacking off of the capabilities of their existing catalog operation. She started quite small and the brand exploded. As for me, the job wasn't really did, but I referred them to someone I knew at Gap, who went in as their creative director.

[@understitchYT]

Oh thats so interesting, was it Mickey Drexler by any chance or someone else? If you have everand the book is available there on the basic subscription. If you do end up reading it please do let me know what you think and if your own history fits because Id love to knwo. Im available here, on email ([e-mail]) and on instagram 🤍

[@jlasf]

@@understitchYT No, it wasn't Mickey. It was just a creative director for the catalog design and ads. Went to the offices in NYC and met Emily. I went to prep school and dressed their style naturally, so I think that was part of my appeal for them. I already "lived" their look. Their interest was very flattering, but not what I did.

[@understitchYT]

How interesting, thank you so much for sharing your perspective, I guess everyone has different lived experiences so that may account for the varied memory of how it all started/happened. I do recommend the book though, esp if it differs from your exp, itd be interesting to see how they differ

[@joandedalmau]

Could you do Paloma Wool? Do you think it deserves a video or is ther still work to do for the brand?

[@understitchYT]

Oh thats actually such a smart idea

[@mysteriousu5528]

J.Cre, Ann Tyler, White House Black Market, Banana Republic all faced the same fate. They failed to change their business strategies when Amazon started gaining momentum. I have beautiful skirts, blouses, belts from these companies. I miss pre 2010s. Michelle Obama wore J.Crew's dress in 2008 when Obama gave the winning speech. Immediately that dress was out of stock.

[@understitchYT]

Oh I think they were down the drain before Amazon did fashion properly, Amazon still struggle to do fashion properly today, but other online services for sure

[@stelladoora8045]

Things that have kept me away from J crew in the last few years. 1) return shipping isn’t free. I need to be able to do free returns by mail. I don’t have a store anywhere close to where I live. 2) the quality has gone downhill a lot. 3) my main reason-prices are still too high and the sales aren’t great. Items are priced too high so even the occasional 40% off full priced items still doesn’t cut it for me. 4) final sale markdowns is something I will not purchase. I considered a linen dress thats on their website now. originally priced at $198, it’s marked down to $177 now, so not that big of a discount and it’s marked final sale. I won’t spend nearly $200 on an item that I don’t know if it’ll fit me and I can’t return. I know final sale items has become the norm for some smaller designers but it’s not the norm for majority of the well known, established online clothing stores. 5) lastly, overall poor style and design.

[@smacwhinnie]

Bought 2 mock turtle necks from one of the first catalogues. Incredible quality, had them for about 20 years. Shorts and khakis i bought in the early 2000s were crap. 1st store in South Street Seaport was great

[@understitchYT]

And it’s so hard to find a good knit too

[@skylar0628]

The quality spiraled downhill. I used to love them so much.

[@understitchYT]

Its such a shame thats such a shared experience

[@nicolem5626]

2005-2010 were my fav J crew years.

[@understitchYT]

When did you stop shopping therr?

[@davidhunternyc1]

I remember my favorite J.Crew staple. A thick wool roll neck sweater with rolled sleeves in grey. I loved the forest green version too. J.Crew was best when their clothes were beautifully crafted minimalist staples with earthy colors. The J.Crew men's store in Soho was a jewel, as good as but less expensive than John Varvatos. I lost interest when J.Crew started to look like the GAP and Banana Republic, using cheap fabrics, generic prints, and garish colors. Incredibly, at 29:42, this image from inside of J.Crew at South Coast Plaza is exactly as I remember it. I was shocked to see that the clothes looked nothing like J.Crew. The label said J.Crew but the clothes were not J.Crew. It was the end of an era. Sadly, I walked out and never looked back.

[@understitchYT]

Updating aesthetics can be tricky, but to alienate the existing audience for a brand that needed that heritage was just silly

[@lindenyoung671]

J. Crew was fantastic in the 90's (The Collection, the supermodels, & the catalogs!) So too was Banana Republic, also The Ann Taylor Stores in the mid-eighties. Now? Embarassingly bad.

[@understitchYT]

Yeah, I wouldn’t call any of those particularly good quality in production

[@aceymac]

Having lived through, and eaten up, the j. crew story as it was sold by catalog (rather like novels had been printed chapter by chapter in magazines previously), we looked forward to each new installment and poured over the invented lifestyle, I don't think enough credit goes to the j. peterman catalogs before it. They really mastered weaving insider cool, carefree, classy stories of privilege.

[@understitchYT]

Oh I bet, catalogues were such an era, I remember Argos in England holding on for dear life all up until their reformat

[@adrianveidt4344]

I'll always have a soft spot for the brand, it was the first "fancy" brand i found myself saving up for after high school and i even worked at a location back in college, 2017. I've moved on from the casual prep look near entirely now, but Babenzien's direction with the brand looks to position it well with the vintage loving crowd who combine streetwear and prep element, a look I genuinely liked till I let Yohji get ahold of me lol.

[@understitchYT]

Even the fact that you considered it to be a fancy brand speaks volumes as to how well they had branded the company back in the day. They were really well respected.

[@silverdove9911]

hello I want to start a KZbin channel and was wondering what platforms are good for editing videos? I want to make videos with a VoiceOver so I was just wondering. Thanks.

[@understitchYT]

I use final cut pro, but Im no expert

[@mcleanroom7997]

Jcrew was the BOMB!

[@understitchYT]

And now its barely a match

[@retrosnowwhite7077]

Love watching these while sewing lol

[@understitchYT]

Ooooo what are you making?

[@retrosnowwhite7077]

@@understitchYT I’m working on my first collection! Your videos are insightful and entertaining, so I sometimes put them on while I work.

[@Madison90210]

I think focusing on menswear as a differentiator would work well since men’s fashion tends to be more preppy and classic. I always buy j.Crew for my growing son since it is quality at a great price point and boys clothes need to be casual and comfortable without being too fashiony since they often get passed down to younger siblings or friends. Personally, I love J.Crew for its classic casual style with a feminine fit that I can update with trends like accessories. I am gunning for them to stay in business for a long time since i adore their products and would weather the seasons that don’t appeal to me.

[@understitchYT]

Actually, it’s so funny you say that, because brave new wear, the person that I talk about in the end of the video, he said the same

[@Madison90210]

@@understitchYT yes, that’s what I am agreeing with 😊

[@turbatg5759]

Would love a video on bottega veneta

[@Anuxxa]

Sorry. Just starting the video and thought damn! It’s been a while I’ve heard that name and it popped in my head- what about RW&Co, Jacob, Parasuco… if you notice my comment please let me know if I’m just daft

[@understitchYT]

Its amazing how many brands come and go

[@selenachynoweth8305]

Hey it’d be interesting if you could cover lizzo’s shapewear brand yitty

[@melindadelgado4342]

Still have my original copy of "The Official Preppy Handbook" - Bitsy 😂

[@understitchYT]

Oh Im jealous! I want to see!

[@klaudiamenendez1004]

Halston would be a great video!

[@understitchYT]

Oh, I would love to

[@davidnorth9390]

The proximity to Yale University and J. PRESS in New Haven may have inspired the name change

[@understitchYT]

There’s actually a lot of theories they go over it in the book, it was really interesting

[@janetplanet09]

Have to disagree with much you have to say in the first 5 minutes of your video. 1-mail order catalogs have been around for 100 years before J.Crew selling clothing along with a wide variety of goods. (Sears, Montgomery Ward, JC Penney) 2-Lands End and LL Bean were selling affordable “preppy” clothing long before J.Crew, Ralph Lauren, and Tommy Hilfiger.

[@understitchYT]

Great you commented so I can clear this up. Yes, catalogues did exist before J.Crew, as I said the family even had one called Popular Club Plan which was not the first either, it was just successful. And secondly, I had to google to check, but Lands end was founded in 1967 and LLBean, though founded earlier, at that time were making shoes and outdoor wear, they had a bit of a rebrand to look more preppy around the same time of J.Crew. It seems they werent really selling prep before, but of course I wasnt around between the 40s to 70s to know how well it was adopted by the Yale crowd

[@LAWoman323213]

Please do a video about Banana Republic. Thanks!

[@understitchYT]

Itd make such a good video

[@JulianGood]

@@understitchYT I second this! Would love a video for them!

[@duchess_of_petty9323]

I still love my classic jcrew perfect fit tshirts

[@understitchYT]

It would be so nice if they were the same quality today