The Router Trick - It almost cheating

This fast way to deal with a strip built keel line or center line is much quicker than hand fitting each piece, but it runs the risk of catastrophic failure.
You are trimming the keel line area of the boat hull using a router with a 3/8" bit and 3/4" bushing to follow a straight fence line centered on the keel line.
You made wedge-shaped spacers that are glued at 3/8" offset from the keel centerline and 1/2" above it. These create a level surface for the fence to ride along.
You are routing one side first, then rough fitting strips on the other side, leaving up to a 3/8" gap at the centerline.
After the rough strips are in, you'll rout again to create a uniform 3/8" slot at the centerline.
Finally, you'll rip a 3/8" strip and drop it into that routed centerline slot for a tight fit.
This approach allows you to roughly fit the strips first without needing precise ends, as the final centerline strip will cover the gaps.

[@napaindian62]

Hey nick been watching your videos for several years. Finally got around to building a stitch and glue and couldn’t be happier. I was always intimidated by the fitting on the bottom of the boat but with this method I think I could manage. Thanks again man! You are Truly an inspirational man.

[@mikeestes4119]

The router trick looks scary to me, but I can see how it would save a fair bit of tedium making a nice, tight seam where the strips come together at the keel. Thanks again for sharing your years of experience and craftsmanship with us!

[@douglasreeve3591]

Thanks for the new videos, Nick. Always good to learn something.

[@mrurga35]

I'm inspired! Thinking on my next build, maybe keep the top part of the form cutouts (they each should be perfect angle to align the rail) and then perhaps a circular saw on a guide rail. It would require a shift on the second side (due to the saw kerf being so thin) to achieve a uniform gap of whatever size the keel infill will be. Thanks for sharing

[@AndrewMoizer]

I've seen you do this before but hadn't appreciated the custom blocks to make the guide sit straight and level. Before it had always seemed like a big (potential) problem getting that guide batten aligned but this makes it straightforward. And then leaving it in place to do the other side is perfect. It certainly would save a lot of time compared to fitting the ends of all the strips. (I have to say when I built by Wee Lassie I enjoyed fitting all those strips, but it sure did take a lot of time). I guess there is a bit more 'pucker' factor routing the second side because if the router slips you're messing up on the 'boat' side. Thanks for taking the time to share this again.

[@NickSchade]

Definitely a risk of catastrophic failure if you slip with the router, but the time saving substantial.

[@robertbolding4182]

I watched the originator of the central strip. It's not a bad idea idea. You save a lot of time. And the strips are cut perfectly. But if your goal is to have to look without the central strip you lost. But I must add that time is important. Probably the most important. Anything that speeds up boat building just means you might build a second boat someday.

[@JenkinsBoatWorks]

Good stuff Nick!

[@mapgeek6]

Cheating? No! Smart? Yes!

[@robertbolding4182]

Big fan of the Chevron pattern in the bottom of the hull. problem is getting the points to lineup from one end of the boat to the other. The problem arises with a center line is cut of one side of the boat the points don't line up on the other side. Well it became apparent that you can cut a center line where they do line up from one end of the boat to the other but it's not the centerline you think it is. It's more of a s shape not perfectly straight. You get this s shaped line by overlapping the left and the right side at the same time and cutting both the left and right at the same time.

[@MikeSiemens88]

I've simply marked the center line & used a very sharp chisel to cut it. Little to no set up & it turns out crisp & straight. The open side needs to have each strip custom fitted no matter how the center line is cut. Even if there are a few irregularities, no one but me will ever know. ;)

[@NickSchade]

Did you not actually watch the video? The second side can be left very rough with this method. No custom fit needed. It doesn't take much longer to set up the fence then cutting with a pull saw and truing with a chisel or plane. All the time saving is in stripping the second side where it takes next to no time to fit each strip because you have 3/8" of acceptable error. I just hack it out with a jack knife.

[@MikeSiemens88]

@@NickSchade Admittedly I didn't watch the 2nd part of the video where you filled the open side when I commented originally. I guess one would have to actually time the procedure from start to finish with each method to see which is faster. A lot depends on the tools one has on hand & individual skill level. Router, calipers, bit, bushing & a bunch of extra measurements where errors could occur vs simply pencilling in a centre line to cut. I've built 3 canoes using the chisel & fit method. I use cleats vs staples to strip the hull which most certainly takes more time. I suppose if I was building as a business I might look at the quicker options such as using staples & cutting center as you've shown. Still not convinced that it's appreciably quicker having to fabricate a special form for each station to support the router fence. And I prefer not having a straight 3/8" whiskey strip, I like the aesthetic of curved finish.

[@NickSchade]

@@MikeSiemens88 I’ve done dozens of boats your way and maybe 10 boats this way. I’ve timed it, it’s faster. The extra measurements have enough inherent double checking that you are less likely to get it wrong than when you draw a line and cut by hand. The hand saw and chisel and fit method requires significantly more skill, precision, and practice. I do it this way in classes because it produces reliably better results in better than half the time.

[@PrimetimeNut]

will you be including templates for the fence support "wedges" in your plans in the future?

[@NickSchade]

I have not not included any of the wedges in any of my plans yet. They can be developed from a set of plans by hand without too much effort

[@robertbolding4182]

I really wish you would sharpen your Staples by hand. 50% swell completely shut the rest are 90% smaller.

[@kathysarmcandy1992]

I'm sure you've mentioned it, what melt temp glue sticks do you use again?

[@NickSchade]

I bought my sticks years ago and I haven't been able to find the same ones again. I'm not sure what temperature they are meant to be, but I crank up the heat on my gun to max so I have good flow and open time.

[@kathysarmcandy1992]

@@NickSchade thanks Nick. Trying my hand at a pair of Lil Auks.

[@jonathanoudin9530]

With all that setup i woulnt call it cheating!

[@NickSchade]

The setup is actually pretty quick and easy. Fitting each strip precisely takes a lot more time.

[@antonioamato3230]

Dove si può conoscere prezzi e località? Grazie.

[@NickSchade]

Boat plans and more information are available at my website: guillemot-kayaks.com

[@antonioamato3230]

@@NickSchade i kayak li vendete?