The Scratch Built Turnout | River Road - Vlog #14

[@stevenstorey1945]

This comprehensive tutorial is as much about Art as it is scratch-building turnouts! The best quality of knowledge and explanation on KZbin!

[@boomerdiorama]

Wow, thanks! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@danielfantino1714]

I´ve stop counting how many times i´ve watched that tutorial. Each time seems to be faster. Pure satisfaction it is to see you teaching and working with touch of humour.😊😊😊😊😊

[@boomerdiorama]

Thanks for watching!

[@PostmoderneModelWorks]

“The more cultic aspects of the hobby” is a great line.

[@boomerdiorama]

It is an obsession for sure. ;-)

[@205004gs]

This volume is absolutely awesome with all the techniques, not to mention meticulous instructions, watching once is definitely not an option! Great job

[@boomerdiorama]

Awesome, thank you!

[@patmccarthy1624]

A master class in turnout construction. I'm going to start calling you Professor, now! Thanks, Boomer for a great lesson. I'll watch this a few more times to catch what I missed!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank You Pat. I am glad to hear you have gleaned something from it. Furthermore, I am pleased to hear you are encouraged to build as well. Cheers.

[@kennedygauger4680]

Boomer, I’ve built probably 80 or more turnouts of various types using Fast Tracks fixtures and teach modelers how to do it, too. I just watched your turnout building video and learned many very useful tips from you. You have so many practical insights. Thanks for sharing this. I really like the way you use your sanding blocks and a triangular file to remove part of the stock rail base to make room for the point. The Fast Tracks StockAid tool works well, but newcomers tend to unintentionally file away the tool instead of just the rail base, leading to a much shortened life of the tool. At $80 US, one cannot afford to be replacing these tools very often. Also, many don’t appreciate how flux works, or where to heat the rail when soldering to the PC board ties. Great explanation! I appreciate your significant contributions to the model railroading community!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you Kennedy. I appreciate that. I never bothered with the FastTrack tools because I couldn't afford them at the time and learned to "wing it" so to speak . . . lol. Cheers.

[@PeterTillman3]

Bravo Boomer 👏 easily the best tutorial I have seen on hand built turnouts.

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad you liked it! Cheers.

[@Josedav3]

Thank you for your contribution to this hobby! Much prefer realistic prototypical to large toyish layouts...

[@boomerdiorama]

You are welcome! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@douglasalan5783]

Mesmerizing video. I’m more of a railfan than a modeler, but I watched every second of this video. Fascinating the skill and artistic eye that goes into this work. Truly elite modeling.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you very much!

[@johnpadams8079]

When you use your enema gage 🤣. You said it’s not the best but it’s good enough, and then you demonstrate that it’s silky smooth. Good enough is the enemy of the best ! But what you demonstrated is EXCELLENT ! Good job buddy !

[@boomerdiorama]

Lol . . . 😆. . . O.K. Thank you. 😉😁

[@mobahartenholm9289]

I'de never seen such a brilliant video about creating a turnout like this. So many thanks for sharing this... regards from Germany Rainer

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you for sharing. I am glad to hear videos like this encourage those to try. After building a few turnouts, they become remarkable easy to build. Never quite perfect but they run practically perfect. 😁

[@donwhead]

What an amazing video to keep in my back packet for the day I'm feeling adventurous to dry making my own turnouts. For now, I'm using commercial turnouts (T-TRAK modules use all Kato track, so it makes sense to stick with Kato turnouts), but when it comes time for my more "permanent" layout, I think this video has convinced me that it's worth the time and effort to do it by hand. The cost savings alone is huge, but the satisfaction of knowing you built it all yourself is priceless. Thanks for sharing!

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes. Plus, you can build any size, code, and curvature you want as well.

[@markiewodi3371]

Good Morning from Chicago!! Thanks so much for this video! Finally someone made it simple. Your KISS approach has given me to the confidence to build one and probably more. Your videos have really juiced up my creativity for the winter! Thanks!

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad it was helpful! Cheers.

[@jimmykelly5320]

Great video! I'm getting back into model railroading but going to N scale from HO. I used to build my own turnouts with wooden ties, solder, and atlas flextrack. I never thought of using PCB boards before. I was basing my builds on a copy of an article from Model Railroad Craftsman from who know when.

[@boomerdiorama]

I used to scratch build "N" scale turnouts (even "Z" scale) decades ago using PC board ties. The "N" scale ones looked really good on code 40 rail.

[@prsearls]

Good demo on fabricating turnouts. I've made a few On3 using code 83 rail, both using a Fastrack jig and my own custom curves. It's not as difficult as it looks. Just be careful gauging the rails as you explained. You can easily clean up excess solder with braided solder wick; I scrub my solder joints with a toothbrush. I like your brass wire technique for the points. I didn't do that but will in the future. Hand built turnouts are cheaper, better looking and are usually smoother operating. I'm really enjoying your series although I'm not an active modeler right now. You are giving very good information and tips that can really help create a successful model.

[@boomerdiorama]

I wash my turnouts in soap and water after the IPA bath as well. Never had a problem with a custom built turnout. Additionally, they are easy to wire up when you fabricate them yourself. I can remember what prompted me to build my own several decades ago - price and unavailability. Furthermore, you can plan any curve you want without inconvenience. Cheers and thanks for sharing ~ Boomer.

[@kevingain1144]

Great tutorial. I have built a number of points in Sn3.5 but still learned a lot from your different techniques. It is indeed very satisfying to see a train roll across a set of points you have built yourself. Thanks again.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank You. It really is cool when you build your own. I'm building several curved turnouts right now. They are a challenge because the frog has a slight curve as well. Cheers.

[@davidorf3921]

This is the clearest illustration I've seen so far in ho to file the various bits of rail to fit correctly, the sketches to show in detail what you are trying to achieve at each junction really help

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank You David. I figured I might as well show it since it may help some. Thank You for commenting. Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@davidsullivan27]

I hit the like button, but, I actually LOVE this tutorial! I have built many turnouts, but faults with most. You have showed me why most of my turnouts were faulty. I am headed to the train room to build a "perfect" (?) turnout today. Your tutorial provides much more instruction than any I have ever seen, including Fast Tracks. I am looking forward to seeing what else I can learn from your channel, I have just subscribed. Thank you, thank you

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you for the sub! It's O.K. to mess them up. Eventually they will become second nature. Then you will never worry about finding that one turnout to achieve your custom track plan. They are also incredibly reliable once installed as well. I have over a dozen built this way and they all work excellent. Cheers.

[@TB-ModelRR]

Thank you, Boomer, for such great presentations with all of your turnout builds. Your explanations of everything and reminders to avoid frustration truly helped! I built my first N scale #6 LH turnout, and it was a success! A lot of adjustments as I went but I'm learning soldering as well. Is what it is and enjoying the process. Cheers!

[@boomerdiorama]

Sounds like you are in the groove there. After you build a few they get better and you will never look at another commercial turnout again . . . lol. Think of all the possibilities now that you are building N Scale turnouts. 😉 Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@joebakewell7566]

Thank You for sharing. I've never hand built a turnout or even hand laid track. I always bought what I needed. So much information from you. Thank You.

[@boomerdiorama]

You are welcome! Lot's of options in the hobby for sure. Cheers.

[@joebakewell7566]

@@boomerdiorama I've been out of the hobby for so long I've found a lot had changed. I watch every video you post on this build for tips tricks and ideas for when I do a build. Thank You for your response.

[@vincenthuying98]

Boomer, absolutely love your thorough explanation on soldering. That’s how it’s done! Especially your warning on cold solder joints. See and have seen ‘m too often. Definitely am gonna try out your paper method; particularly for the special turnouts my layout needs.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank You. Cold solders can be ugly gremlins for sure. I find scratch built turnouts easy and satisfying to do. Especially when you get a few under your belt. Cheers.

[@dalerichards2135]

Hi Boomer, love the videos, specially on your turnout (points here in OZ) buildng. just 1 note of safety, you do know that when CA glue is heated it creates cyanide gas!!. loving the channel and the great tips.

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes I know, CA is horrible and I try my best to avoid it. Cheers,

[@bertusduiverman4743]

What a wonderful presentation. Forgot to breathe for 90 minutes.

[@boomerdiorama]

Lol . . . Cheers.

[@ISAACBATENBURG]

Really nice video again! Here in the Netherlands it’s evening when your video comes online. I look forward to it whole sunday and then enjoy it. I like it when you explain stuff while you are working on the project. Have a nice day!

[@boomerdiorama]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@ISAACBATENBURG]

@@boomerdiorama ha,ha, i reacted under an old video by mistake. I meant it as a comment on the boxcar final!

[@darrenmcharg7731]

In the past, scratch-building would not have appealed to me. In a previous video, however, you talked about the advantages of custom made turnouts: 1) they look better and 2) they help maximize your layout space. After watching this tutorial, I'm quite certain my shelf layout will include scratch built turnouts. Thanks for making these videos.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thanks for sharing! Scratch building a unique model railroad is awesome!

[@boriskucke7053]

Amazing Tutorial. The best i found. I`ve also tried to build this turnouts, and i ever had problems with the soldering. Your video has inspired me to try it again. THANK YOU!!! I wihs you a stressless weekend. Greetings from Germany, again.

[@boomerdiorama]

Make sure you tin the PC board tie with solder first. Then use lot's of soldering paste. Then clean with Isopropyl Alcohol. Wash with soap and water and all is good. Take your time and each one will improve over time. Mine are not perfect believe me. Cheers.

[@boriskucke7053]

@@boomerdiorama Good Morning, one more question. How thick are your PC Board Ties? I use Peco Code83 Track on my CNW Layout and the Ties are 2mm high. Can i follow you on Facebook or other social media platforms?

[@boomerdiorama]

@@boriskucke7053 The PC board ties I use are varied in thickness. Some are 1.0 mm and some are 1.5 mm. I shim the ones I need with evergreen plastics strip. Since you asked, I don't do "other" social media platforms because I simply don't have the time. Most people (and I get it), have no idea what it takes to produce a KZbin channel like this. I have to model, produce video (reshoot over and over again), edit in post-production, write, manage the channel (answer comments), etc., etc. I also have a life as well. I spend more time in video production and managing this social media platform than I do modelling. Another social media platform would kill me all together and no one would benefit. Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@boriskucke7053]

@@boomerdiorama thanks for your prompt Response. Greetings Boris

[@joevalentine2048]

Well this is perhaps the finest tutorial on switch building anywhere including NMRA in person clinics. Love the idea of Not buying jigs etc although I will consider buying the ties from fast tracks Comprehensive and clear your style is superior. Same can be said of your scenery videos Thank you for your efforts.

[@boomerdiorama]

I appreciate your point of view on the video. I always take things for granted so hearing that it helps is good news. Come to mention it, I have a few more to build! Cheers.

[@jaybeckham]

Just watched your video and it is very helpful. I am in O Scale so I can use Right-O-Way's cast frogs and even cast point rails but can build the turnouts at the work bench rather than standing up for hours around the layout. Also intend to watch some of your other videos. Again thanks for sharing.

[@boomerdiorama]

O Scale is awesome! I used to model quite a bit in O Scale. Thanks for watching and taking the time to write. Cheers ~ Boomer.😁

[@larryisawesome9824]

Thank you for sharing this! Very comprehensive. I have a ton of brass Atlas code 100 rail that I have been contemplating building a small switching layout in O scale for a deadrail layout. You have pushed me over the line to start my journey. Thank you!

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad it was helpful. Code 100 Rail in O Scale sounds awesome! Have fun . . . the journey is full of rewards! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@Mercatoyd]

A most excellent how and why video on this subject. You truly have the gift of teaching. Thank you for taking the time to share your wealth of knowledge. No doubt viewers considering taking on a project as this will find confidence to be able to achieve the end result shown.

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad it was helpful! They get easier after each one you build. They really do. Cheers.

[@ade9685]

Blimey stuck with it great skills and tuition. Cheers Ade

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you!

[@harperlarry49]

Very nice. I have never really planned on making my own turnouts, but you have shown me that it certainly is a possibility. Planning and patience. Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Cheers - Larry.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank You Larry. Cheers.

[@craco77]

Thank you you're tutorials are the best. You're relaxed conversational method works very well. I built my first turnout tonight and it actually works very well. Although it took me two tries on the frog and my soldering is less than perfect.

[@craco77]

It was a curved turnout too.

[@boomerdiorama]

They do indeed take a little practice, but after a few they work out great. Thanks for sharing!

[@otoluisvieira2772]

Great technique! Thanks for sharing. Cheers 😎 Incredible you truly are the master… beautiful work! I'm following you from Brazil

[@boomerdiorama]

Wow! Brazil! . . . nice! Thank You. I appreciate the support. Cheers to you from Fort Langley, B.C. Canada. ~ Boomer.

[@bnrailfannz8262]

Well that was mighty fine to watch! I made a couple of turnouts myself years ago out of N scale track(for my H.O scale layout) and using basic tools. Most enjoyable video Boomer, didnt notice the length either. Look forward to the next .Cheers

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you very much! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@Madonsteamrailways]

Wishing you and yours a merry Christmas and a happy and prosperous New Year!!!!

[@boomerdiorama]

Same to you!

[@tcmr4250]

Thanks Boomer for an amazing and thorough tutorial on building a turnout! I joined a club when I was 16 and one of the members hand built dual gauge HO/HOn3 turnouts. Super smooth operations and the only issues we ever had were the points occasionally popping loose. After seeing how smoothly his turnouts operated I was never a big fan of RTR options. One note to add, if you do like the tie plate/spike detail there are options available for building turnouts from Proto 87. They two different track/turnouts types ("Fast and Easy" and "Ultimate") that can be built as "common" turnouts or specialized turnouts.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank You Drew. I appreciate the tip on the Proto 87. If you take the time to install and solder in the brass pins you should be good to go indefinitely. I did this on the Glover Road Diorama and they all held fast with constant use. Cheers.

[@davebnsfnscale4433]

Best soldering of rail to PC ties ever tutorial,no doubt

[@randysrockandrollrailroad8207]

Never even thought about building my own turnouts, but after watch this 😊

[@boomerdiorama]

Once you build a few there is no going back. Cheers.

[@patricknoveski6409]

This video was perfect for leaning how to build a turnout.I can give it a good try now that all the parts equal super sweet flowing track. Good instruction. Thank u Boomer.

[@boomerdiorama]

😁

[@SkipJack1950]

Great Job!!! So inspiring. I had to chuckle when you're identifying the anatomy of the rail... The proper name of the parts are "Ball, Web, Base".

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@WHJeffB]

Re-watching this tutorial again after a few years... Great tutorial Boomer. You do a few things differently than I do, but the end result is the same.

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad it helped!

[@voodooutt]

Your comment about solder paste/flux.. I never used to use it until I started building my own under the table switches for the turnouts. As you mentioned "there's rosin core solder, no need... yadada..". Well, I decided to use it one day and I am never not going to use it. solid joints, superb electrical connection. I just started laying down track, soldering the joints together now, everything just flows.

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes indeed sir! Then I soak and clean with IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol). I always use solder paste regardless - it sizzles and guarantees a clean solder, ;-)

[@jah651]

Hey Boomer, I stumbed across your videos recently and have really enjoyed them so far. A note at the beginning of this video you mentioned the switch has no lock on it. This is very typical in industrial and yard areas which typically fall under 105 territory operating rules. If you look carefully in the bottom right hand side of your video you will see a yellow hook shaped piece of metal. This is called a "Keeper". This acts like a lock and prevents the switch points from moving while a movement is going over the switch. Main line switches will have a high security lock on them to prevent the public from tampering with the switch. Keep the videos coming!!

[@boomerdiorama]

O.K. I wondered about that because it was so close to a busy street. There was a derail switch across the street on the upper grade. Cheers.

[@jah651]

@@boomerdiorama In these areas you are operating under 105 Non-main Track rules. You have to operate your movement approaching every switch as if it could be lined against you. Because of this there is no reason to spend money on expensive locks as keepers do the job of preventing the switch points from moving well enough

[@patricknoveski6409]

This is great instruction. Thank you. I am fired up again. Shelf layout # 3. I negotiated for space and got some room. Im stoked to do new branch. 😅

[@boomerdiorama]

Awesome! Acquiring space is the primary goal. Did you get it in writing? . . . lol. ;-)

[@stressballer]

Amazing. I agree, they look great, and what's not to like about custom rails? Love it.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you - we agree! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@jimpeterson7171]

Thank you for this great tutorial it gave me the confidence too build two turnouts and I will build more as needed .

[@boomerdiorama]

Great to hear that Jim! They get better all the time. Even then they still work well. Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@westonoverland]

This seemed too difficult of a subject when viewing the final product, but after an easty watch, i am now considering taking on the challenge. Thanks again 🤘🏻

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad it was helpful! If you get a few turnouts under your belt there is no going back . . . except for maybe staging etc. Cheers. Boomer.

[@BryanAllen-p8s]

Thanks!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you Bryan! I appreciate that. Cheeers ~ Boomer.

[@albertofranchi6408]

Super beautiful work

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@scottb8175]

Same initial reason as you - when my son expressed an interest in my old model railroad stuff and wanted to build a small layout, I just couldn't justify $30-100 for one "factory" turnout. $8 for a 3' section of Atlas flex track was bad enough! Factory turnouts wouldn't allow the track plan modifications we decided to pack into the space, either. I had learned to build spiked in place turnouts on my club's layout back in the 80's. So I was interested in trying the soldered PC tie method. Once I equipped myself with good information and tools and built a few, I could build any type, shape, and form of turnout that performed smoother than Atlas, Peco, Shinohara, Walthers, etc.... My son's layout has 4 second hand Peco and 2 Shinohara code 100 #4's. Expedient to get the mainline track running. Afterward I built and installed another 18 PC tie turnouts, expanding the track plan. Guess which ones cause derailments (mainly the Peco - Shinohara are better IMO) and which ones have never caused a derailment? The factory ones are on the endangered species list. Even though I have experience as a tool and die machinist and have a well equipped home machine shop (no CNC), for my own future large layout, I want to buy more Fast Tracks tools and some of the standard fixtures and jigs. I think they will make building "standard" turnouts much faster. For the number of turnouts I want, they will easily pay for themselves.

[@boomerdiorama]

Fast Tracks Tools are a great investment for the avid track modeler for sure. Most of mine are all "one-offs" therefore it makes no sense economically for me. I can usually tell with one quick glance if a layout is built with commercial turnouts. They all have a certain "redundant" look about them. With River Road, I wanted large prototypical looking curves so every turnout is large radius curved (which I can couple on) without issues. I couldn't imagine buying jigs for each turnout just to make one when I wasn't even sure on the size until I actually layed the turnout into the plan - not the other way around. Cheers.

[@1stArizonaSub]

Excellent tutorial, I use Fast Tracks myself, and they work beautifully.

[@boomerdiorama]

Great to hear!

[@fernandolima885]

Hello, how are you? I follow your channel, I've been following your work and it's simply wonderful. Congratulations. I have a question, when constructing the turnouts you used a paper diagram as a template. Where can I get it? Can you help me with this?

[@boomerdiorama]

I downloaded mine from Handlaidtrack.com

[@ottorosborough7589]

Great video. You are always informative and entertaining. I use the Fast Tracks jigs in n scale and I picked up some great technics from you. Thank you and keep the videos coming. Otto

[@boomerdiorama]

Cool, thanks. Fast Tracks is a great asset to the community n more ways than one. Cheers.

[@LeeK-31]

Had to save this one for few days to get a chance to watch without interruption and it was worth the wait. I made plenty of mistakes attempting to build one from a paper template in N many years back, but probably should take another run at it in HO. Also got through a few beverages during the viewing so it’s all good!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank You for your support Lee. I have really grown to like this method. It's a bit of work to clean up the turnout but worth it in the end. I mess up my turnouts all the time. I just keep working them over until I get them to work. If I built ten of the same not one would be the same. It's the way to go though for sure. I'm in deep now building several big "curved" turnouts . . . but man do they look and work well. Cheers.

[@ZFRANK59]

Awesome tutorial with lots of valuable tips and hints! Thx for sharing!

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad it was helpful!

[@robertbeaty4909]

I bought a Fast Tracks jig for #4 Nn3 turnouts something like 14 years ago but never completed one. Maybe now I'll tackle one or two. I've been wanting to build another micro layout in Nn3 with all hand laid rail. Thanks for the video.

[@boomerdiorama]

Sounds good Robert! The smaller size turnouts work great for the narrow guage. Give her a go and you will be thrilled when you run the first trains through it. Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@jaybeckham]

I build some with your methods and some using the Fast Track jig. However Signature makes some that extend the frog rails a bit to provide more room for cutting the gaps in that area. So I am going to try using your method but using a bigger frog as last night on of my brand new Fast Track turnouts had a shorting at the gap that was in a too tight of space and cut fire the first time I used it.

[@boomerdiorama]

I would recommend the "Fast Track Jigs. Especially if you are starting out and you know what you need. It's a learning curve for all of us. ;-) On the other hand, each one of my turnouts is different size and geometry so it makes no sense for me to buy their "Jigs" as that would be enormously cost prohibitive. After you build a few you get better at them. I had to re-build one or two at first as well. Furthermore, learning to build your own turnouts will liberate you as a modeler because there are no limitations if a commercial turnout is not available. Cheers. ;-)

[@bannanapancake]

If you don’t mind me asking what size pc board did you go with? The 1/16 or 1/32?? And do you know what the measurements are for? They don’t specify on the website🤔

[@boomerdiorama]

I like the 1/16 but the 1/32 is easier to cut. Not sure about the measurements are for. Can you phone them?

[@bannanapancake]

@@boomerdiorama , I think I figured out that the 1/16 works better for the “Ho look” and the 1/32 does better with N, but can used for either or if you will.. if I’m wrong I stand corrected, but hopefully this will help someone looking as well..

[@boomerdiorama]

@@bannanapancake The PC ties hold the rails together but they all become cosmetic when they get painted and ballasted, You would not notice in N Scale really. Cheers😁.

[@bannanapancake]

@@boomerdiorama , thanks for your reply! This helped a lot, your work is amazing!

[@Rosetheromani]

A good place for sprung tweezers are jewelry supply stores and they are likely to have wood (as insulation) on the part you squeeze, because they are designed for soldering with a blow torch.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank You for sharing the tip Rose. Cheers.

[@patricknoveski6409]

Thank you.

[@stevensvalleyrr]

Hi! Actually by using Templot, you can design your railway layout from scratch in any scale, any curvature, you can even specify the tie spacings. This is the software that I use to design all my layouts. I use it to create templates for my turnouts, that I print out and build on my bench.

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes indeed! We still have to make revisions when we actually lay it out though. Cheers!

[@ScottTaipaleRail]

Excellent video! I’d rather watch a long video that goes really in depth than a hyphenated version that leaves out bits and tips that I may not know. Have you done a video of curved diamonds? I need one to motivate me to make those too.

[@boomerdiorama]

No . . . but I have built one in "O" scale. Try laying a curved section of track over a tangent and draw up a plan.

[@markwilliams591]

Excellent tutorial. Thank you. Where do you find the copper clad laminate strips? FastTrax have laser cut turnout ties, but it seems to be more efficient and less waste being able to cut each tie length off a strip as you have done.

[@boomerdiorama]

It is quite painful to cut your own on a table saw. I would prefer to buy them if I can . . . now. But if you insist you need to find 1/8" or 1/16" PC board from electronic shops for hobbyists. Then glue the PC board down (with 3M spray) to a scrap piece of door skin or 1/16" scrap board. Then rip them on the table saw. Then peel them off and clean with IPA. It takes work but you can cut enough to build one hundred turnouts in no time. Cheers.

[@tomoconnell4235]

Great great tutorial on how to build a turnout. Thanks for sharing

[@boomerdiorama]

You are very welcome! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@Tom-xe9iq]

Ten-Thumb Tom admires your skill!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank You. I am getting close to laying track. Sub roadbed is going in as we speak. Cheers.

[@DisVietVetUSA]

Shinohara HO gauge turnouts expensive when I was doing modeling in Japan. Thanks for your personal take on turnouts

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes! Shinohara were nice turnouts. Almost every type I can think of. I think Walthers bought them out many years ago?

[@IronHorseRailways]

A few of our Fine scale enthusiasts here in teh UK make their own points, the results are always so nice, like you have here. Maybe one day I'll give this dark art a try 👍

[@boomerdiorama]

Hey. Whatever one can use is great! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@johnschutt9187]

Excellent work.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you John. Cheers ~ Boomer.😁

[@TheGomes412]

Great tutorial. Maybe I missed it in this vid, or maybe its in the next vid of this series, but would you be able to show how you install your throw bar too?

[@boomerdiorama]

I show throw bar in other related videos ;-)

[@TheGomes412]

@@boomerdiorama Thank you. Do you have a manufacturer you used for your manual throw bar pieces?

[@boomerdiorama]

@@TheGomes412 It's cut PC board from an electronics shop.

[@Vman7757]

I did enjoy this build. I have a good number of the jugs. But I only have one curved jig. Now I can build any of the switches I don't have thanks.

[@boomerdiorama]

I can build any turnout I want on a whim. It's a great skill to develop. Cheers.

[@Vman7757]

@@boomerdiorama I use the Jigs. Why not. But now a new skill.

[@boomerdiorama]

@@Vman7757 Sounds great!

[@lepetitnabot]

Fast Tracks is great. Just got an order in, about to give my first hand-build switches a try. Love your 3903. Would be right at home on my Mexico layout, believe it or not.

[@boomerdiorama]

Awesome! I heard they sold them to Mexico actually. Nice to hear they may be still around. Cheers.

[@lepetitnabot]

@@boomerdiorama A few have met their makers (3902 and 3907 for sure, possibly others), but the 3903, 3904, 3905, 3906 and 3908 are still going strong!

[@jeffvandergraff2574]

I need to try this...i get it now. Great tutorial

[@boomerdiorama]

Go for it and don't worry about messing up the first one. I still mess up now-and-again, but end up with mostly great turnouts that work awesome and look pretty good as well.

[@robertwanka]

PC board ties; where do you get yours?

[@boomerdiorama]

I cut my own on a table saw (from PC Board) but you can get them from "Cloverhouse.com"😁

[@robertwanka]

Thank you; much appreciated.

[@WHJeffB]

Fast Tracks... The same company that he mentions several times for the turnout templates. They sell a whole range of turnout building materials and tools, including pre-cut PC and wood ties.

[@TheGomes412]

A follow up question....do you have any vids showing how you installed the pull wire for the throw bar to be able to switch?

[@boomerdiorama]

I only have Bluepoint switch machines without pull wire for now. The Bluepoint have power routing as well, but I use mostly frog juicers, so it's automatic for polarity on the electro-frog. Eventually I will probably install manual RC rod or cable for the hard to reach switch machine throw bars.

[@marka87]

Hi Boomer, just catching up with this video; I’ve made a few turnouts using the fast tracks turnouts and I was wondering if you ever use the roller or three point track gauges when you build them? I’ve found those especially the three point gauges to be very helpful. Love your videos.

[@boomerdiorama]

Go for it!

[@maryginger4877]

Another trick is a thing called a roller gauges... a few of them is like a spare pair of hands...

[@boomerdiorama]

😁👍

[@hoseman8001]

Hello, thanks again .... excellent video...with out buying expensive jigs for just a few turnouts on a self layout. Plan to do HO first and a n scale self layout later on. With n scale will it be more difficult becaues of the size? You made the assembly of the frog very simple and the way you explain it. That was my biggest fear in building turnouts. Thanks again for a great teaching experience 😀 👍

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad it was helpful! Depending on your eyes and dexterity, "N" scale turnouts can be a little more challenging. I don't model in "N" scale anymore due to the poor physics of "switching" operations, and the unrealistic height of the rail, etc. HO Scale is superior to N Scale in almost every regard, even when it comes to space on the smaller shelf layout. N Scale simply requires more sprawling scenery (within the same footprint), at the end of the day. The latter are immersion killers for me. In regards to building frogs and points on custom turnouts, the smaller the code rail the greater the challenge in my experience. Cheers.

[@peterkaczmarowski4523]

Just a few questions, you never mentioned so I am assuming you are using normal CA and not gap filling CA. Is that correct? I'm not sure it would make a difference but the gap CA is more jelled to fill any uneven areas. Also, this may be common sense, at some point in gluing the filler ties on the point rails, should you not glue the points of contact between the filler ties and the point rails? I am thinking that if you glue the filler ties to the point rails and the stock rails, you will lock them in place. Is that correct or am I way off on this. GREAT video I always enjoy them. Thanks for the time and effort it takes to make them.

[@boomerdiorama]

I only use thin and medium CA. I never use accelerator as well. No problem with gluing ties to points. If there is (rarely), they pop easy. Furthermore, the "soldered" PC ties hold the rail in guage, no need for gluing ties to rail with CA around the points and closure rail area. It's only cosmetic. All the turnouts work flawlessly and I never have to think about them which is nice as you know. Thanks for sharing and watching the tutorial as well! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@4everdc302]

Renaissance HO Scale track building. Sir Sanford Fleming be proud.🚂🚃🚃🇨🇦

[@boomerdiorama]

It's a little old-school for sure, But it works fine for me. Cheers.

[@tonyromano6220]

Did you buy some jigs or special tools for building turnouts? Back in the day I learned to do it with a pattern and PC ties.

[@boomerdiorama]

I just used a paper pattern and PC ties.

[@56NeilWatson]

Thank you for a great tutorial. I just might have a go at some N gauge points for the hell of it

[@boomerdiorama]

Go for it!

[@handlaidtrack]

I like the pins on the points. I would suggest switching to solder paste to avoid the solder blobs to clean up the track work. I agree, handlaid is far superior to commercial track.

[@boomerdiorama]

The pins are great. Makes them almost bullet proof. Cheers.

[@jonathankrauss1535]

Hi guys- Any suggestions of why my pins are failing the conductivity test w the multimeter? I was so inspired about the pin idea, I built 10 turnouts without doing multimeter test FastTracks suggests in their video after making the frog gaps. I’m now removing the pins on each turnout and my conductivity issue is fixed, I used brass rod #8159 K&S.20 (.51mm). I’m so bummed. I have 50 turnouts or more to build and would have benefited greatly from this idea. All pc boards are gapped as FastTracks instructed. Just a problem to overcome but boy I’m dumbfounded by it. Paul Mallery “Trackwork Handbook” doesn’t offer the pin idea from what I have reviewed so far. Any sources that can help are appreciated! Thank you!

[@jonathankrauss1535]

Omg I’m so thrilled! I discovered that I needed to gap the pc board underneath the throw so the pins are not conducive to the stock rails. Now I have no conductivity on the stock rails per the Fast Tracks multimeter test as required! In a few days I’ll start building slip switches using this pin method! Yay!!! I hope you are having a fun day on your projects! Be well.

[@boomerdiorama]

@@jonathankrauss1535 Yes indeed, I certainly am! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@shanestrains4724]

I'd like to know how you made the copper clad strips? I miss the fact that Fast Tracks used to sell bulk packs of copper clad ties. Now they only sell the laser cut Copper Head ties...which I don't really like.

[@boomerdiorama]

I use PC board from electronic shops. I get mine here. Phone them if you can: smi-elec.com/ Then I sandwich the PC board between to sheets of door skin scrap. Use 3M spray to adhere the backside of the PC board to door skin (or whatever else you choose), then rip the strips through a table saw. You can cut PC board strips with a knife, in a pinch as well.

[@WolfgangSabella]

Thank you for the excellent tutorial. At what temperature do you set the soldering iron?

[@boomerdiorama]

Not sure with this one as it is just a cheap Iron.

[@WolfgangSabella]

@@boomerdiorama Thank you for the feedback.

[@jaybeckham]

I have been trying to find the Burnley Soldering Paste. Amazon doesn't appear to carry it and a search on the internet only found some EBay sellers selling it. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks

[@boomerdiorama]

The place I bought mine went out of business. Keep looking, or try another brand of solder flux paste. ;-)

[@daytonpyro]

so so much info, but around 38:00 it would of been great to see how you file these. mine are not straight at all ,. ha ha..

[@boomerdiorama]

Neither are mine . . . lol.

[@andrewlaverghetta715]

Did you end up using this turnout? Where is it now?

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes. I am using all the turnouts on this layout as I just completed a list and these were some of them. This one is at "Big Bend" on the approach to the Barge Slip. The approach is where section one meets section two. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fqGygaKhjKtgp9k

[@andrewlaverghetta715]

@@boomerdiorama Thank you! I was curious to see or imagine where it might have gone. I'm going back and forth between making another, larger N scale layout when we move into our new house, or work on something for HO scale where I can use a couple of the turnouts I've made with the fast tracks jigs. I like them and so far, trucks have run over them well and they all say they're in gauge with my nmra gauge and flangeway gauge. I've made a couple in N scale but that was near the start of everything and I've got way too much solder in the flange side of the rails. HO seems a lot easier with these fiddly projects, but I'm fairly well invested in N scale.

[@stevensvalleyrr]

I wanted to ask: where do you buy those long strips of copper clad ties? Or you buy a large piece and cut it with the table saw? If se, where do you buy it?

[@boomerdiorama]

I cut them on the table saw between to thin door skin boards.

[@warrenholmar1129]

I seriously want to do this with my next layout.

[@boomerdiorama]

Awesome!😁

[@thomasmccaskill5197]

At the Model Railroad Club in Union NJ that our founding father Paul Mallety started we only hand laid the track and turn outs its time consuming but when done right its satisfying

[@boomerdiorama]

It certainly is satisfying. Actually I can't deal with commercial turnouts even though I know there is a legitimate application for them. To much trouble to convert to power-routing DCC in many cases. When I scratch build them it's easy. Cheers.

[@iangerahty3422]

The difference between off the rack or shelf and a tailored suit or shirt or handmade shoes done on your own last it seems.

[@mattw9667]

Great video Boomer. You mention power routing and DCC in some of the comments. I can't remember if you covered this earlier in the year but it would be a helpful topic. I'm sure you are already thinking about this for a future post. Cheers, Matt

[@boomerdiorama]

@@mattw9667 Thank You for brining that to my attention Matt. I will cover some of this topic when I begin to lay the turnouts and track on this first module "A" Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@JRossHunter]

I saw the video where you talk about building the under layout turnout control. I have not found one yet where you talk about the trackside turnout stands. Did you build them?

[@boomerdiorama]

Those ones you see are carry-overs from a Canadian company long out of business. I do plan to attempt scratching some down the road and you can bet I will cover those when I do.

[@JRossHunter]

@@boomerdiorama I'd love to see that when it rises to the top of your to do list.

[@ajkleipass]

There's almost 200 comments here, so forgive me if I missed this.... In soldering the frog, you stated that there was a 5mm spacing at 30mm distance. Shouldn't that be 5 at 35 in keeping with a #7 turnout?

[@boomerdiorama]

Not sure now but this turnout is "custom" curved and it runs flawless anyway - go figure. ;-)

[@ajkleipass]

@@boomerdiorama - I suppose that's what is truly important: good trackwork that works reliably.

[@boomerdiorama]

@@ajkleipass The technical side is more important as the scale gets larger. The artistic side becomes more relevant as we model smaller scales because impression is more important than technician. Having said this, they are both important as we develop our own unique methodology as we seek to achieve similar results. At the end of the day, I don't care as much about the technical as I do the artistic. 😁

[@JeffRichBLET129]

I have a question Brother Boomer on track foundation. I have my plywood bed and cork on that ( which I've used with success before) . Correct me if I get this backwards but did you varathane the top of the cork for ACC cement ( for ties) or no? My notes are fuzzy and I know you seal plywood for plastic veneering for structures.

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes. I coat the top side of the cork with varathane so the flex track & turnouts adhere better with thin CA. Make sure you let the varathane dry. Be careful not to get the CA into the throw bar. You only need to pin the track with CA in a few spots before the ballasting.

[@JeffRichBLET129]

@boomerdiorama you're a gentleman and a scholar my friend. Cork going down in the morning. I soaked the roll in the bathtub last month and flattened out the pieces as they dried. It rehydrated it so it limits crumbling in the handling. It's good and dry now. Thanks for the help!

[@boomerdiorama]

My cork crumbles sometimes as well. I just get it glued down as best I can and then board sand it before I lay the track.

[@craco77]

Thank you very informative

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ckain5501]

Did I hear you right ? You said you cut you pcb on a band saw. If so how did you over come the band deflection ? I tried and I didn’t do so well.

[@boomerdiorama]

I used a table saw. I sandwiched the PC board between two sheets of 1/8th scrap board and pushed the whole deal through the table saw. You need to 3M or glue the PCB to one side of the sheet. Then the strip peels off easily. Be careful with the table saw. Use a long push stick.

[@ckain5501]

@@boomerdiorama I’ll give it a try . Thanks for the advice. I’ve cut my fingers so many times I could feel your cut.

[@boomerdiorama]

@@ckain5501 Thank You . . . please be careful!

[@ckain5501]

@@boomerdiorama took your advice and build a jig with a drimel . I think a table saw would make to much wast , plus I can use this on other projects that need square cuts .

[@boomerdiorama]

@@ckain5501 Sounds great!😁

[@ianisaacs2340]

So what exactly is the purpose of the PC board ties?

[@boomerdiorama]

To hold all the rail in guage. Furthermore, the PC board ties assure excellent electrical continuity through the points and frog. They are superior to any factory made turnouts. Cheers.

[@ianisaacs2340]

Thank you sir. I always wondered what the deal was on my n scale atlas turnouts, on the underside you can see the copper peaking through the brown ties.

[@RoyEltham]

Yes, always use Flux (paste). ALWAYS! Preach it brother!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank You . . . and then there are those who shun it for no apparent reason? Jeesh. Cheers.

[@RoyEltham]

It makes no sense! Makes it harder and more work in the long run. This River Road build is coming along awesome, btw. I love the in depth build videos chock full of great tips & techniques. Thank you!

[@boomerdiorama]

@@RoyEltham Thank You Roy. You are welcome! Cheers. ~ Boomer.

[@pierrecasavant3381]

HI! Boomer,your video are awsome very instructive,for your pc ties,where did you get your's?please

[@boomerdiorama]

I cut them from PC board sheet. Sandwiched between two sheets of door skin through the table saw. Just 3M the backside of the PC board to one sheet and run it through a table saw. Then peel the strip off the sheet you glued it it to.

[@pierrecasavant3381]

I can't find the PC board sheet,where did you get it? i'm living in Sorel Qc @@boomerdiorama

[@boomerdiorama]

@@pierrecasavant3381 Phone these people and ask for it. This is where I purchased it: smi-elec.com/

[@pierrecasavant3381]

thanks a lot Boomer@@boomerdiorama

[@daytonpyro]

which gage do you need for HO? i see mark 1 2 3 4 5's

[@boomerdiorama]

NMRA HO Scale (1/87) Guage.😁

[@daytonpyro]

@@boomerdiorama yeah i see so many.. mark 2 3 4 5... NM

[@michaelevan9184]

Mr. Boomer.... Quick question....does it really matter with regards to styrene verses wood ties while building the turnouts? I see that you prefer styrene....and also...where do you get your pcb ties?

[@boomerdiorama]

I would use wood ties if I had them. I use whatever I can at times. I cut the PC ties from sheet (between two pieces of panel board) on a table saw. You can get PC ties here: www.handlaidtrack.com/copperhead

[@Gknosmodeltrains]

where do you get your pc tie strips?

[@boomerdiorama]

I cut my own from sheets on a table saw. It's much cheaper this way. You can buy PC board sheets at electronic supply shops. However, you can order them from Fast Tracks (www.handlaidtrack.com): www.handlaidtrack.com/ties

[@Gknosmodeltrains]

@@boomerdiorama thank you