He glue, he sand, but most importantly he glue stuff to hand.

Your voice is made for radio/podcasts

You're like the cool uncle who introduces you to wargaming and helps you paint your first mini's.

Sir, i have to say i have never been interested in this type of crafting, however, after the first minute or so of your video, i was compelled to watch until the end. You have so much passion for your hobby, and sincerity in your words. Nice crafts, good day.

Great advise ... the basing tips not the glue sniffing. It's worth mentioning that baking soda is way less expensive than other basing material you might find at the hobby store. Also, if you buy a big bag of kitty litter and only plan on using a cup or two, the local animal shelter probably wouldn't mind the donation. Thanks Atom!

If the last minute were its own series, "Technical Difficulties", I would watch every episode.

“Don’t use used kitty litter...” But...but... extra texture! “You can really smell the Nurgle on these models!”

I really love the outtakes added. It's almost like watching a comedy and looking for the added features on the dvd so you can watch the blooper real. Very funny. Keep doing those. 🤣🤣

CA glue can be extremely cheap to get if you skip the hobby stores and go to the dollar store... Also, when using your baking soda method, NEVER USE GEL SUPERGLUE, you aren't going to get good looking results from it.

Kitty litter with flavor crystals.

That bit towards the end, that must be the infamous first attempt to demonstrate how you use baking soda on your bases! I’ve been waiting for that video for years!

Interesting... A point of clarification for non-US viewers (or maybe just British?). Here, what Americans call ‘baking soda’ is known as Bicarbonate of Soda. What we call ‘baking powder’, often sold adjacent to bicarb, is the same stuff with raising agents in it. It makes your cakes rise. I’m not sure if that will have an effect on basing but to avoid issues, don’t use ‘baking powder’. Another tip is that the stuff usually comes in small tubs like salt, but if you go to the laundry aisle you find it in large bags, usually cheaper. Should last you a lifetime...

Bloopers! Finally! Love how you don't lose your cool even in such a terrible chain disaster. Btw, I use bonsai clay instead of baking soda it gives you an even more wide particle range

Thank you for this tip! I am doing the hobby since 1984 and with the help of guys like you I am still learning new techniques.. Danke für diene Arbeit! Thank you for your work! Greetings from Germany!

Another way to base is to use the white Gesso primer. Add baking powder to thicken it up and use it like a cheap texturing paste. Add any more Colour you want in it also anymore grits for added texture. The white Gesso didn't work for me as a primer so i'm re-purposing it for basing. Thanks great videos even for a historical modeler.

Love your tips! This and the wet pallet video are 2 of my favorite video tips and simple tricks. Thank you so much. I am an old dog (50) learning a new trick (painting & playing) with the added challenge of having young onset Parkinson's disease. Thanks again and keep up the good work

Seven years I have been waiting for this guy's know how. A real big help thanks yo

Came across this from my recommended feed and gotta say, really nice quality video making. Audio is really crisp and I laughed out loud with the Dechnical Tifficulties that's just great.

Lol, that end clip of you gluing the base to your table... Reminds me of why I picked up the habit of using wax paper under my models when using glue.

The nose-pump-blooper was hilarious! Really brilliant!

Just started my first minis in yeeeears. Used this basing technique and just primed. Looks great so far!

awesome tip! have used baking soda for years to dry CA in many tasks,.. not just minis and crafts, but never really thought of it as a texturing tool... thanx a ton!!!

this was more comedy than information for me ^^ zero interrest in this craft (just watched some vids on painting for my gloomhaven minis), but your voice and humor kept me on. nice!

I have used PVA glue and sand grit, rocks, etc., and I have never had the basing pop off. I have dropped many minis in my time and have never had any basing damaged. I score the plastic base with a modeling knife. I mix PVA with water about 50/50. After the material dries, I put a second coat of 50/50 glue. I will add more material and build up parts to make the ground uneven. When the material is how I want it, I put a last coat of glue.

I usually skip around in videos like this and pick through information, but I couldn't bring myself to skip a single word of this! Thoroughly enjoyable videos -- thank you!

Superb explanation of this technique, I really appreciate how thorough you are with your advise.

Thanks for the tip . I have just got back into painting again and this has given me some good inspiration to expand on the bases , giving it even more detail .

Implemented this technique on my first bases, today. It’s pretty close for my first attempt, and looks better than I expected to pull off. I’ve been living in these videos in preparation of painting my first Space Marines. Thanks for the vids.

Love the outtake/tech difficulties 😂

Very detailed. Very patiently conveyed and articulated really well. Thanks for that elite knowledge sir.

Glad you were able to finally make this video without gluing your fingers to the base! From your suggestion a few years ago, I started using this technique combined with GW texture paints and other stuff and it has been really great! Keep up the great videos! ALSO- the lamp in the background is badass.

this is 4 years later lol. I watch a fisherman that makes wooden lures with lead poured for the weight, he covers it with a deep layer of baking soda and just saturates it with super glue. works as a gap filler.

Tip for you uncle Atom, when you can't get CA glue open, pour some plastic glue between the bottle and the cap. Works most of the time...

I just tried this last night and got great results first go. So this tutorial was excellent. Going to apply this method to all my GW Middle Earth minis going forward. Thanks!

Really great video. I appreciate the camera shots and your explanation of the techniques. I thought your disclaimer about using unsullied cat liter was pretty funny too. Thanks so much for putting this together.

Learned something new and exciting. Adding depth and flavor to your bases, it's all about lifts and levels as Martha Stewart always says. Really appreciate the video thanks for sharing your discovery. Sealing the model with clear coat will also prevent the baking soda from yellowing.

I've been watching tid bits of your videos, but as soon as I heard "some people like to texture after they paint but I'm not one of those people". You got my subscription.

I love the bloopers. Makes me feel better about it when I screw up.

<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="324">5:24</a> Ah yes, the antithesis of a Nasal Spray. the Nasal Sealer.

I want that SHIRT! Had SO much fun playing Car Wars in Jr. High... So many years ago.

Should have watched this 12 hours ago. Will be texturing my bases pre primer in future. Great article.

So many models I have not based - never sure what to use as I want the bases to match the terrain board and as I got Desert, Winter and Urban boards that is clearly almost impossible. So with my Death Guard I decided to use ash (as wherever they tread everything organic dies) and wow does it make the model 'pop'. So finding any basing tips really useful right now - thanks Uncle A :)

Best basing technique ever! Ive been using this for my Dwarven dispossesd Sigmar army, it looks fantastic! Thank you Uncle Adam!

Baking Soda scientist! haha Kenny would be so proud...

Great technique! What I do is I have a big tub filled with various different materials sand salt baking soda kitty litter tiny cork crumbles. What I do is a heavy application of wood glue on the base fairly thick then I put it in the mixture and then level all the material out with a little exacto or pallet knife with the glue when it dries it creates a nice level surface that shows all the variance in basing material then I gloss varnish it before priming and painting

Love your terrain based vids man. Keep them coming Adam.

wow very nice video. I have been painting for 26 years and have never heard of using bakingsoda. this is going to be a must try on my next jobs

I am a 100% novice and I’m working on my first two miniature bases. I was about to just go outside and collect the fine dirt, but I’m glad I decided to look the subject up before I went! You brought up a lot of great points and your examples are absolutely incredible.

5th and I use this technique all the time thanks to you, but I have found out that it works great even with PVA glue, and it is rock solid.

I did this on a few bases today and I like the way it came out.

Love your content, keep it up! Great advises!

Tried this after seeing it in your other video. Works great. Thanks for the tip.

I love the idea of scale here. I've used baking soda for a long time for my individual bases. I will say -- PVA works perfectly fine if you hit it twice. The first coat sticks to the plastic, the next one sort of seals the stuff together. I've never had any issues with it peeling off if I've hit it twice.

Simple, cheap, and effective... awesome! Also liked your guilty smile about making a mess! Haha!

I started doing this a few years ago when you last talked about using baking soda for bases... it works great. I even use it as a rust effect or to add texture to skin on nurgle minis before priming...

You can also use grout for sand and keep it in scale for 28mm figures. That ripple effect works great for lava flows and solidified lava.

Watching these videos has helped me in my hobby alot, just to clarify I avoided your first step of sniffing the glue and it worked fine 😉

I have a super fine sieve used for tea leaves that I use to sprinkle stuffs... Works a treat if you want even coverage.

I am new to your channel and I am ENJOYING it very much lol...great informative stuff - subscribed ! Ric

Great advice! For a more textured, earthy look I use spack filler (used for filling cracks in plaster walls) with fine sand/stone/twigs etc pressed into it before its fully sets. Like the CA glue a little goes a long way and its very cheap too.

Gorilla Glue comes in a bottle with a brush too, so you can actually skip the toothpick too.

Your videos are just great! Super entertaining and super informative!

been looking for something like this for ages. cheers man gonna try this :D

Just found this video. Love it. I am a miniaturist and use chipboard for furniture, fencing, etc. I use CA glue and spread it with an old credit card and coat it with baking soda. Brush off excess. It is like board. It can be filed, sanded, cut, etc.

Neat technique. will definitely try using it on future projects.

Haha! Thank you so much for including excerpts from the old first version of this tutorial that you've already mentioned about couple of times before. It really made my day! :-D

I am starting a new project and I think you have inspired me to take my bases to the next level.

The model camera is very good. Loved the bloopers.

So the crusty old brush you used, is BOBS brush (Brushing Off Baking Soda) !!! Awesome video thanks TM.

mmm flavor crystals. Thanks for sharing your tips on basing!

Great technique, fantastic shirt!

Like the glue catalysing idea - In the UK cocktail sticks are round (typically about 2mm diameter) sharpened at both ends but toothpicks are flat tapering wooden sticks, about 30 thou thick.

Great vid and great tip! Thanks for it, really appreciate your vids!

Great bloopers at the end. That's a really good idea. I ran into the issue of "sand" size/scale on a <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="95">1:35</a> USMC desert sniper team diorama I made back in September of 2018. I ended up using extra fine craft sand. Of course it was still out of scale but what I did helped a little. I used pva to glue down the sand and when I did my sealing coat with watered down pva after misting with isopropyl, I sprinkled a little baking soda over the top while the sealing coat was still wet. It turned out ok but still wasn't entirely happy with it, but it got me a silver medal in the competition. So, I think next time I need to do sand, I'll lean more heavily on the baking soda and use the sand for smaller rock.

Great video! Really cool usage of common household materials. What you might be spending on CA, you are saving on the ridiculously expensive basing materials. Thanks!

Tips for cleaning up after a CA spill: If you get CA on your skin, run it through running water. Moisture is what normally cures CA, so excess water makes it cure prematurely and causes a weak bond. Makes getting that CA off your hand much, much less painful. Watch out if you accidentally get CA on cotton clothes, though. That thing will boil your skin. And that is not a hyperbole.

Awesome, I love watching ideas for basing miniatures. However I am more impressed by that sweet Car Wars shirt.

Thank you sir.. Before, i use baking soda+superglue trick in figure customizing to place some part more strong or to cover a hole. Your video make me more confident to keep on with this trick and give a new route in display base customizing..

Just use cheap glue. I use Cheap superglue from the cheap store (Dealz/poundland/dollar store). With the Bicarb it will still dry rock solid. Only thing to watch with this is that it can give off a lot of heat during the reaction, you don't want this mixture on your skin, as it can cause chemical burns.

I still use sand, but i tend to stick to casting sand, with some normal sand mixed in. It gives a fine grain powder, like baking soda, but also has a little diversity.

Sir, you just solved my problem with my minis and basing for grass. I have blood bowl figs I am working on and I live in Cairo, Egypt where there is no hobby shops like the ones we frequent in the US or elsewhere. I can't find static grass or "poweder" grass anywhere. I can, though, find baking soda in large amounts and rather cheaply too. Thank you!

I just ordered some painting supplies to finish off my 3D prints, I can't wait to try this! :3

Fantastic vid. My favorite in a while.

I love this advice, thankyou. Also love the technical difficulties card and music. Little bits like that make this channel so character ful. Would you ever do a video about the astetic and tone of the channel? How you refined the sound design, character and tone and how you see it now compared with when you started, and maybe goals for the future.

If you want finer sand (or whatever texturing agent you're planning to use), a mortar and pestle does exactly that. And you can also sift sand to get the finest sand and dust separated from the larger bits.

The baking soda/CA glue technique also works as a gap filler. Fill the gap with baking soda, drop a drop or two of CA glue onto it, and let it soak in. When it's dry, it can be filed, sanded, carved, etc. NOT drying wood in the microwave is GREAT advice. I tried it once. It actually caught fire in the microwave. Smoke, flames, melting plastic, and $400 for a new microwave. Strangely enough, my wife thought it was hilarious.

Us Armour modellers sometimes use it for creating winter scene dioramas too! It's alot cheaper than paying out krycel for it and if you use abit of hairspray the same way you would with krycel it goes rock solid

I order model railroad dirt, fine or medium. Has a mix of powdery dirt, sand and some larger particles. I apply it dry just how I want it, then touch the super thin super glue to it and it wicks it up and then dries solid.

As a recovering RC enthusiast, I discovered many ways to glue things together (including fingers). Another thing to try for variations on these effects is to vary the thickness of the CA glue and try other fillers. Balsa dust (or any fine sawdust) and phenolic microballoons can create really cool textures. With thin CA, adding glue to powder is a really cool trick. Please keep the videos coming, your channel is my hobby background music!

I found a bag of very fine sand at the dollar store (also small green rocks for a fish tank, and larger white rocks that work for boulders). They work great. Use watered down PVA glue to seal it in and make it all solid after adding the sand and rocks.

Just tried this out for the first time on my dark imperium death guard, absolutely love the result

I love CA glue, after 25 years in the rc car racing hobby I have had many fun gluing adventures, seeing yours was hilarious.

Nice. I always thought sand was to big to be "sand" thanks for the tip. I love kitty litter too btw. Very versatile and once its soaked up some glue surprisingly durable.

I like this technique, very effective!

Tile grout works great too (very fine powder). Easy to get various shades, it's very cheap and pigments can be added if desired.

Great vid! For snow baking soda+PVA+fine salt will stay white for a long time.

I would recommend also that old used or broken toys work. You can take parts from them to make stuff.

Pretty cool. What I'm doing for my orks since the table is going to be deserty wasteland. 1. Super glue any bits/rocks. 2. Put vallejo earth texture. 3. prime/paint/shade/highlight/etc as needed 4. glue down an army painter wasteland tuft somewhere that looks good

My go-to basing material is ready-mixed wall filler (spackle). Just get a little bit on a small tool, and spread it over the base, kinda like a texture paint. It winds with about the same grain as baking powder, but you can sculpt it into rocky textures as you lay it on, and when it's set, you can even carve cracks and such into it.

I was drilling into some concrete yesterday and found something even better (though admittedly harder to get); concrete dust! It's at least as fine as sodium bicarb powder but completely unreactive and non-yellowing. I remembered this great video when I saw the dust coming off the drill bit, and it inspired me to catch and save some. I haven't tried "raw" cement out of the bag yet, but that should work too, although it is reactive due to its lime content so it might do some funny things when mixed with glue.