The secret to 3D printing PETG [Adventurer 4]

[@mikesavad]

his answer starts at 10:14 if you want to skip the long history. But as far as I know, low fan speeds make for strong parts. I don't the timer method is only good if you don't have long bridges. With all the experiments I had, I found out the fan was cutting out to zero because of my stupid settings. Prusaslicer still didn't explain why the fan would turn off in the middle of making a bridge. So now I have to find a way for it to work again... So back to wasting more material. Also a glue bed, you won't need as hot a temp for the bed. I'm at 45-50 using a glue stick. I'm betting with hair spray, I can go lower (haven't bought it yet).

[@tavelkyosoba]

Mvp right here

[@imfloridano5448]

Hair spray works better than glue stick. I use aqua net and rave which are cheapest but now becoming hard ti find

[@mikesavad]

@@imfloridano5448 i got a can of something, whatever was cheap. I have to try spraying some mirror with it. The issue with PVA is that the thickness is random and a lot of it comes off when pulled on. I've been meaning to update it but the first layer is perfect right now and I don't want to touch it.

[@ColinWatters]

​@@imfloridano54483dlac works well for me. Think it might actually be made by a company that makes hairspray

[@ColinWatters]

Some fans have a minimum speed at which they will start. If that's the issue there might be a way run them slower by starting at a high speed and then slowing down.

[@ardaozbek]

Cura's got this "magic" setting too. It's "Minimum Layer Time" under cooling menu.

[@CopperClappers]

This. Also Cura is free

[@KazeWolfen]

So what settings are recommended?

[@wendigo6782]

This video has been sponsored by flashprint

[@David-ty6my]

If I have read the comments I could have saved 13minutes. thank you.

[@Unremarkabler]

I see my "MInimum layer time" is set as 10s, is that correct? My printing is terrible

[@jamesk1619]

S3D isn't the key.. it just happened to fix your problem because you probably didn't realize how to do the same thing on another slicer. That specific setting you refer to for layer speed change is available on other free slicers (PrusaSlicer for one). It's just a matter of getting comfortable with all the options in a slicer and understanding the requirements of the filament.. PETG tends to require slower speeds and a higher temp than PLA. It also does better with minimal cooling like 30-40% (varies with different cooling fans). There's quite a lot of other variables you need to play around with to get your printer to do well with PETG. Additionally, if you have multiple printers, don't always expect the same print profile to work on the other printer.. it may but not always the case. And finally, even if you think you have the printer dialed in and working solidly for months.. something will happen that will make you doubt the settings and make you go down a rabbit hole of troubleshooting.. When that happens, don't mess with your settings.. it's more than likely, a piece of hardware is causing the issue. Check the hardware first. In fact, backup your settings if you decide to make any changes to test something. Also on a side note, they've been saying S3D v5 was going to be coming out a few years ago and they still haven't done anything.

[@chrishackett4622]

Have you used flash print?

[@floodo1]

Thx d00d, the section where you went over everything you tried that didn’t work was very helpful.

[@rajdude1]

Just in cast someone is wondering about this setting in Prusaslicer, it is under Filament Settings -> Cooling -> Cooling Thresholds -> Slow down if layer print time is below... By the way, this is not really a "solve all" solution to PETG printing. It is relevant only for small prints and/or small layers.

[@kevanamjadi2853]

In my case it isn’t the temperature set for the nozzle. I print PETG with good success on a K1 Max, the key is to use the side fan at least at 50%. It seems that the tip of the nozzle gets hotter than the rest of it causing the PETG to ooze out and cause printing defects!

[@tombowman4489]

So up the side fan to higher than the default speed? Ive yet to be be able to get first layer to stick down

[@keppitfitz8996]

I have the same printer and have run into the same issues as him. I fixed most of these issues by raising my nozzle higher off the bed then usual, slowing it down, and raising both bed and nozzle temperature. I used Hatch Box in my printing more then any other brand and this solution seemed to work.

[@Andrzn]

I can confirm this worked for me too. Raised my bed and nozzle temp by 10 degrees (250 first later 240 there after and 80 for the bed in cold north of England) print speed down to 25mm/s and cooling fans off except for over hands. Z level is not beautiful (Neptune 4 max)

[@justapile4376]

Finally got Overture PETG to work. Had to slow the print down to 10mms, increase the flow rate to 120, increase the hot end temp to 260, increase the bed temp to 100. I'm on Ender 3 with Creality 1.1.4 board.

[@chrismulhauser333]

You sir are a god I’m gonna try this I’ve had nothing but trouble with it minus two solid prints although I was printing at 235 on a sprite direct drive

[@justapile4376]

@@chrismulhauser333 After looking into it, this brand is considered a higher end plastic. It's a bit thicker. So slowing down the print with a higher temp should give good results. Be sure to let it fully cool before removing from the bed.

[@chrismulhauser333]

@@justapile4376 this is why I love the printing community everyone is always so willing to help it’s just great thanks man

[@justapile4376]

@@chrismulhauser333 Used CHEP's olive oil trick and got it to print at 230 using standard Cura .2mm settings. Try running a print tower and see if that works. For now 245 looks the best for me, but still needs support for overhangs.

[@jsc3417]

10mm/sec first layer 240c print temp, 75c bed temp Glass bed with glue Worked for me

[@marderman103]

thank you very much for posting this, this was the culprit of my petg stringing. finally i can print petg in peace :)

[@carlnash7847]

Thanks for your video, never once did I ever think my poor PETG printing was down to my z offset, but thinking about it after watching your video, it was the only thing that had changed. I ran a bed level on my AnkerMake M5 and it’s back to printing PETG as good as PLA

[@johannesmikkelsen0910]

Im printing with PETG right now. I have no problems with it. Only a couple of stringing. I heat the bed to 85-90 degrees for the first layer. To get a solid stick to the bed. Then on layer 3-4 I change it to 75 degrees. Also for the first layers I set a speed of 50%. So the extrusion turn out good. Then I set the speed at 95% at layer 3-4. I have only had good results:)

[@ZhuJo99]

It’s not about bed leveling but simply - PETG likes to be printed in the air. 0.2-0.3 mm z offset from the bed is typically great. PLA likes to be squished but not PETG. Britleness of parts was not caused by some “stress” on layers, but because of your nozzle being too low for PETG, it caused huge nozzle backpressure, causing under extrusion and extruder wheel skipping to feed the filament. This is all because of the PETG having huge volumetric flow. Ie if your all metal hotend is able to push like 15 mm^3/s, for PETG it might be even 25 mm^3/s so you can print much faster. Ie. With my high flow Dragon hotend I can print at up to 35 mm^3/s with PETG, which translates to 200 mm/s with 0.6 mm nozzle and 0.3 mm layer height. For PLA it is more likely at 25 mm^3/s in my case. Nozzle buildup can be prevented by using high quality nickel plated copper nozzle which I consider minimum standard these days. Nickel plating of whole heatblock too is fine for all copper hotend - much higher flow and less tendency for filament to stick. I personally use tungsten carbide nozzles from Spool 3D as I print lot of carbon fiber. It’s expensive, sure, but it’s nozzle for a whole life. Regarding carbon fiber - CF PETG on the other hand prints like PLA, no need to rise Z offset as carbon fiber causes less oozing and lowers the flow.

[@justmakeitdaniel7667]

unfortunately for the adventurer 4, the nozzles are proprietary and they don't reveal the specs (materials, flow rates, etc). If I had an open source printer, I would have upgraded my extruder in a heartbeat

[@ZhuJo99]

@@justmakeitdaniel7667 definitely, standard PTFE lining hotends generally sucks. Basic old E3D with groove mount too. There are plenty of great hotends these days like ones from Phaeton or Triangle labs, or Slice Engineering etc. As I said, bimetalic heatbreak and copper nickel plated nozzle are good choice in general.

[@GenCodeFPV]

at 10:14 these settings made my print go from 3.5 hrs to 8.5 :) but my issue is a little different where it stops extruding the petg, this doesn't happen on filaments.

[@andrewwood6285]

Thank you! Thanks for sharing! This helps tremendously I too am difficulty with PETG.

[@justmakeitdaniel7667]

Let me know if there are any further questions you have

[@louiel8711]

Have you tried Prusa slicer? I had no end of issues with Cura and PETG. The default profile in Prusa prints great on my ender 3 no blobs minimal stringing. Great videos.

[@justmakeitdaniel7667]

No I haven’t tried it. The adventurer 4 which I’m using isn’t widely supported by other slicers so it’s always a pain to set a new one up

[@djchuckey]

I came across this solution last night. I was have non stop issues with cura and PETG. There was even times where the print head lifted too high on start up and printed in air. I downloaded Prusa slicer and used the generic PETG profile and a near perfect print. it still had a very very small amount of stringing compared to stringing on every layer before.

[@iownyounoobs]

If you use cura look into retraction settings and there's an experimental setting called "coasting", I've only printed petg so far on my ender 3. Started on a 0.4mm nozzle but I recently switched to a 0.6mm nozzle for quicker print times on more functional parts. I'm assuming you calibrated E-steps as well for the extruder because that could be a factor! 3D printing is all about trial and error.

[@justmakeitdaniel7667]

I’ve been playing around with coasting on Sinplify3D and found that at 40mm/s, 3mm of coasting seems to work reasonably well. What are your settings on the enter 3? The esteps have been calibrated well as I’ve done the check where you extrude 100mm of filament. There is no way to change this setting on the adventurer 4 as well :s flashforge support doesn’t seem to want to answer how

[@iownyounoobs]

@@justmakeitdaniel7667 Cura might be different but my settings are 90% travel speed and 0.2mm^3 volume (it recommends using a volume of roughly the nozzle diameter cubed).. 0.6mm^3=0.216mm^3. What retraction settings do you use? Petg likes to ooze so if you don't get the retraction settings dialed in it can cause zits and blobs to form on the outer wall. What works well for the ender 3 with a bowden setup is 6mm retraction distance with 30mm/s retraction speed. The last thing, although I don't think it is causing your issues is the part cooling. Petg prints well with < 40% fan speed.

[@iownyounoobs]

ONE MORE THING, petg likes to absorb moisture so drying the filament in a filament dryer, or even the oven, should give you better print results!

[@justmakeitdaniel7667]

@@iownyounoobs I have my fans set to 25% and I bought a filament dryer which didn’t change the print results. The role of filament was freshly opened so looks like the manufacturer dried it well. My retraction settings ranged from 20mm/s to 50mm/s for all my tests. I retracted between 4-6mm. While observing, I noticed that a blob would form while it was retracting even at the highest speeds. So coasting is the setting I need to play with. There is just a lot of pressure built up in the nozzle I figure. The coasting setting is also dependant on print speed (more accurately, material flow which actually changes depending on the feature it finished printing)

[@GasBrakeSim]

@@iownyounoobs good tips man!!

[@BlackKryptonian]

I'm brand new to 3D printing. I have an Adventurer 3. I'm glad I came across your video, thanks for the information. I haven't seen many use a flashforge printer.

[@homeistheearth]

I have one too, my Adventurer 3 have more than 1700 hours on it. I have printed some new brackets for the guide under the bed, and i have made an airnozzle so you can print high temp and not warp the nozzle, its on thingiverse.

[@ijcarroll]

If you have a 3d printer with a heated bed and a cardboard box you have a filament dryer. Your bed will heat up to 60-65° also your oven (if it has a halogen bulb) will keep your oven warm possibly around 65° but the bed with a box method works 👌.

[@Leviathan3DPrinting]

Part cooling typically leads to brittle petg parts. Try 0%-30% I typically use 15% or no cooling whatsoever.

[@justmakeitdaniel7667]

Thanks for the tips! I have learned through my various tests that a lower fan speed makes better prints

[@bigboomer1013]

My ender 3 s1 pro keeps knocking over my prints some how. Even with the glue stick and the rough surface bed and setting a higher temperature. Using bo fans works great to not have it fall over and to stick to the bed. Though it did have trouble with Iverson hangs

[@RoofAndAMeal4UsAll]

Does the print head stop briefly when the blobbing occurs, if so it's likely the printhead stopping while its location is getting saved back to SD card, due to 'power off recovery' being set to on, so it knows where to re-start. Which isn't necessarily all that helpful. I have read that can be turned off for all printers in order to avoid stalling/blobbing. Thanks for your posting

[@daymianhayes2493]

I use Orca Slicer on my Adventure 5M. Its amazing. The preset settings are all perfect, except for some reason the print speeds dont change when changing filaments, have to do that manually.

[@GrulbGL]

i gonna give it a try, my printer is already slow (50 mm/s stock), my prints also have those blobs, but i already have the outer wall speed 50% (25mm/s) it should be even slower? i'll try another slicer first

[@johnstewart1266]

I can definitely tell your an engineer cuz you go in depth about the process to get the end result.

[@RobertD_83]

I've only made it about halfway through the video at this point... Not long after you decided that "it's definitely not the filament being dry or wet", and I'm screaming at my screen, THE FILAMENT IS WET!! I had all but given up on printing petg after inability to print it from 3 different brands over a few months of time. I tried drying in the oven and all that as well. When I started printing a lot more flexible materials I decided to diy a drybox out of a food dehydrator to reduce stringiness and threw in the petg just cuz I had the room and voila! It prints almost as well as pla and is much stronger. I don't even have to print much slower than with pla on my ender 3v2 ~ 65-70mm/s compared to 80-100mm/s pla. Just use as little part cooling as absolutely necessary so as to not lose layer adhesion but keep the details. I had honestly written off all the money I'd spent on petg and was hesitant to even load it in again but I was pleasantly shocked. I should've been more diligent with moisture control as I live in the hot humid south but I just assumed my machine was the problem and gave up. If you got it printing ok without drying it you will be amazed how it performs when dried. You can get a cheap dehydrator from Amazon for about $40 and there are several videos on how to do it. Drying really only takes an hour or two and if stored ok correctly after dried you don't have to do it constantly. Hope this helps anyone else perusing through here.

[@justmakeitdaniel7667]

How long did you dry it for? I’ve tried drying for 6 hours but that didn’t seem too so the trick. Also I showed my humidity is around 44% so not very humid at all. These are all experimental right now so perhaps I’ll try drying for longer and reprinting

[@RobertD_83]

When I was trying it in the oven I put it in for an hour at the lowest setting 170°f (~76°c) but I had the problem of one roll fusing together you mentioned in the video. Since diy-ing my drybox I've never precisely timed it, as I installed a cheap ($3-5) little hygrometer and just wait until it gets to

[@saleh_afkhami]

I liked your trying and tirelessness.

[@NoirDesigns]

I’m having issues and it looks like I’m getting seams all over the print but I’m not, you look closer it looks like it’s under extruding or bubbling.

[@michaelandrews4783]

the anycubic Glass bed is best for petg sticks perfectly and releases when cool, wish this printer came with one.

[@LPkOhOnIz]

Where can i find those models to test on my rig??

[@MaxGoddur]

What would be the equivalent setting you found for the PrusaSlicer?

[@3DPI67]

YT is funny, was trying to solve the same issue yesterday, searching on YT "how to print with PETG/ retraction settings" etc... this video didn't came up. Today casually scrolling and BAM, here is the solution for yesterday's problem. Thanks for the video.

[@davefman1984]

Im going to look at this adjustment. Thanks

[@davidh6218]

Anyone got recommendations for similar settings to change in Orca slicer?

[@michaelbell-horwath4298]

TL;DR: Dramatically reducing the print speed for small parts with Simplify3D's "Adjust speed for layers below XX seconds" setting helped a lot. Coasting and Wipe Nozzle settings help clean up remaining blobs. I have been using Simplify3D for years and love the interface, but these features are also available in free, open-source software like Cura and PrusaSlicer. S3D hasn't been updated since 2019 and is starting to fall behind the free options IMHO...

[@justmakeitdaniel7667]

Yes I totally agree with you on that. They have a very limited selection of advanced settings while cura has a ton. I’ve started experimenting with cura and like the results so far. S3D has a good gcode preview interface though

[@justmakeitdaniel7667]

@Justin Hager sure I'll look to make a video on both slicers in the future

[@CodeMonkeX]

Super Slicer is great too. I have been using that exclusively for a while now. They are just released the Beta that brings in all the PrusaSlicer 2.4 updates. It can be overwhelming with all the settings, but once you get the hang of it and start dialing in the print settings it's amazing all the little things you can change to get that little extra speed or quality you are looking for.

[@justmakeitdaniel7667]

@@CodeMonkeX I actually have gotten superslicer recently and been testing it out. Definitely an overwhelming amount of settings but they have good descriptions so I've got it setup for the most part. Still dialing in PETG though

[@Explore531]

hello im using Cura 5.2.0 how do you change the hopper settings please??

[@lgnrome]

how to make the filament come out continually with the nozzle staying in place halfway up without moving up or down or sideways? I just want the filament to come out continually while I hold something in my hand under the nozzle. I have a flashforge adventurer 4 .

[@joeyvanrenesse884]

Nice video Daniel! I'm glad you found a solution! One which shouldn't be needed in the first place. Note that I still have yet to print with PETG but what amazes me is that you print with your 240 degrees nozzle. When slicing in Flashprint, the standard profile is 250 degrees for PETG and notes you to change the nozzle. Maybe trying the 265 degrees nozzle will solve alot?

[@justmakeitdaniel7667]

I am printing currently using the 265C nozzle but at 240C. For my testing, I went all the way up to 260C and results seem to be the best around 235-245C. I have also read a lot online and I’ve heard people print PETG anywhere from 225-250C. I’m still a be bewildered at why flashprint wasn’t able to produce the same results as simplify3D even after slowing the speeds down

[@eightball3706]

@@justmakeitdaniel7667 exactly I new to 3d printing, just got the adventurer 4 last month, for petg 240c is the sweet spot.

[@jasonhowardak]

@@justmakeitdaniel7667 I suggest emailing Flashforge regarding your issues and ask for advice with flashprint and PETG, I have had a couple of flashforges over the years and the company is very helpful with any issues. They know their product and what to do to fix things

[@kspec2001]

omg....I knew I recognized you. funny enough I follow The Fire grind since last year, but just found your 3d printing channel. just subscribed. may your 3d printing woes be low and as well as your stock choices go high lol.

[@justmakeitdaniel7667]

Haha that’s hilarious that you happen to stumble on this channel as well

[@kspec2001]

@@justmakeitdaniel7667 maybe we can give a tiny tiny amount of credit to the YT algo? maybe..prolly not lol

[@thestuff85]

with Bambu labs x1c I print with the stock 0.4 nozzle with hatchbox brand PETG. I change the plate in the slicer to engineering plate, but in the actual printer i just keep using the cool plate that comes stock with the print. I change the bed temp from 35C to 70C. Use 3DLAC spray adhesive. I don't change any other settings and I get just about perfect prints

[@OpisNaiks]

Iam printing on bambulab a1 mini with kina wet filament but still i have lile stringing so i personaly think that it is an printer brand or model isue .

[@daveoutlaw9890]

I have been printing petg with same issues with my adventure 4 . With .6 mm nozzle . The recent flash print rev allows edits so I was wondering if you could we could duplicate some of the cura or simplify 3d settings . Also a silicone boot is recommended for the ender and Prusa printers . I am going to get a dryer to remove the wet potential .. enjoyed your video .. I did look. At a few others but they did not use the adventure 4 … I do like it too for a variety of reasons . I have printing simple round petg parts in large qty with out issues but more complex and larger designs do present problems

[@justmakeitdaniel7667]

Sure I can look at starting a discord

[@1doutlaw]

@@justmakeitdaniel7667 I am not familiar with the discord . Is that an app

[@justmakeitdaniel7667]

@@1doutlaw yes it is an chat app that has different channels so various topics can be discussed in real time with other people who are online

[@ВикторВълчев-р5щ]

Hi, would you try to print PET made from recycling bottles?

[@TheBinklemNetwork]

I got a bit of the petg+ in orange, i thought it would be flexible (newbie) excited by my mistake and to learn how to use this stuff. Got confident with regular pla, tried htpla from protopasta and that was FUNKY for a bit. Nuzzle to 230, bed to 60, and i what seemed to be the key was the flowerate being set to 110%

[@dirtyqsick]

I have problem with petg and dragon hfw. I have no idea what i make wrong. Do you have some contact to you?

[@ГеоргийМефодьев]

Друг, чтобы печатать нормально на петдж нужно просто подбирать скорость вращения вентилятора под размер модели. Я замедление вообще отключаю. На деталях по размеру больше 100 мм отключаю обдув, температура 240. На маленьких включаю вплоть до 50%. Нормально печатаю как на директе Эндер 3s, так и на боудене ender со скоростью 100-120, а периметру 80. Касательно соплей - смотри в сторону скорости откатов прутка, скорее всего он у тебя просто отрывается. 5-7 мм со скоростью 25 мм/с для боудена хорошо работает. Для директа можно и 1 мм со скоростью 35 мм/м. Не завышай скорости и ускорения твоего ЭКСТРУДЕРА, иначе будет эффект шприца. Удачи тебе)

[@the.real.ipatch]

have you tried using superslicer? i've been having good results with it. like it more than cura for the fact that it isn't an electron based app which runs a little better on my older computer. it's a fork of prusaslicer

[@Landrew0]

This is the first source I found with actual useful information about PETG blobbing and stringing. All the rest were just guessing about "things to try," none of which really worked. I could buy the Simplify 3D slicer for now $200, to get that one setting for PETG. They have a compatibility setting for my machine, an Ankermake M5, but I'd rather not get a new slicer. I'm rather hoping that I can tweak my settings in my machine to allow a soft layer to harden before printing over it, dragging blobs and strings. If anyone knows how to do this, I'd like to know.

[@TheDefpom]

Plastics materials absorb moisture in a matter of a few hours, even having a brand new spool installed on the printer can result in moisture issues later in the print

[@flightofapaullo72]

I can't polymaker clear petg to print right. Adheres to the bed fine then it just goes crazy. Great video!

[@Printed_Visionz3D]

Did you try no part cooling fan?

[@justmakeitdaniel7667]

Yeh I’ve tried that. For small detailed parts, they melt and warp

[@BlackKryptonian]

Could you or have you done any videos on carbon fiber petg or pla?

[@TentoesMe]

Thanks. About to try PETG. I want to make something for outdoor use and my PLA test piece melted one day when the temp was 110F (44C).

[@makszugeljgaspersic7877]

PLA shouldn't really melt at 44C tho, it becomes soft at like 65-70C. PETG is great for hot stuff tho :D or you could try PC which prints basically the same and can withstand 90C, but you need to print it at 260C and 110C bed

[@mr.nobody8174]

Had my machine print perfect with both 0.4 and 0.6mm nozzle, but now. Just switched to 0.6 after doing some testing with the 0.4mm. Now i get zits and artifacts. One thing is for sure, next time it is calibrated and prints without artifacts i will stop messing with it. Im kinda jinxing my self, pushing and pushing the printer. Hehe

[@AntzProdCast]

I have the adventurer 4 and use Simplify3d, I contacted them and they have given me the FFF file so it is set up correctly.

[@justmakeitdaniel7667]

Yeh I got it as well

[@joseguevara184]

I had a Tronxy XY 2 pro printer with it´s original mainboard with a4988 drivers and I printed more than 5000 objects for face protectors with PETG without any clogging and very nice quality using CURA. After few months the part fan got damaged and when trying to replace it the port of the motherboard that controls this fan got burned. Months later I decided to replace the electronics with MKS Nano Robin 3 and compile new firmware and using latest versions of ORCA and CURA and now the printings are terrible. Clogging after few layers, blobs, etc. I will try a stronger fan for the radiator´s hotend and move to direct drive to avoid retraction. I hope it works. Sometimes the combination of different parts from different manufacturers is a mistake. I think that the all metal hotends still not work for PETG, if the problem persists I will have to go back to teflon extruder and replace it every 3 months at least before it get burned. Still a long way for cheap 3d printers to work as they should and we wanted to.

[@ekiskaliburnirvana9047]

I am using petg for several years with no issues. Print speed 60-80-100 and no problem. I also print tiny gears like 8mm in diameter with no issue. Its a prusa clone. Anyways i print at 215C with no cooling.

[@AAE-cg1il]

I had some issues with the first couple of translucent PETG parts on my da Vinci. I adjusted the retraction speed and distance……and printed at low speed. Perfect………

[@Acheiropoietos]

Is this the most suspenseful video on KZbin? Am I a 3D Printing Nerd? And you did it on Simplify 3D, lol!

[@jack91522]

i got rid of the blobbing by enabling lift on new layer to hide those seams

[@r4z0r84]

Printing perfect today, z hop makes all the difference and all the speeds to like 30% in flashprint 5 I know you were using 4 back in this video so the stock petg settings still have issues but doing the z hop and 30% speed on everything worked great for me, so glad I didn't have to bang my head against a wall for hours and hours on end

[@aussieparamotorman9931]

Hi mate, awesome video thanks for making it. I have an Adventurer 4 and I’m super keen to use simplify 3D for making thin wall light weight PLA RC planes. If you could do a video on how to go about it that would be awesome! Thanks

[@justmakeitdaniel7667]

I have a video out on how to setup sinplify3D for the adventurer 4 already :) in that video, I also have a link to the printer file from Sinplify3D for the adventurer 4 which you can download

[@davidborg7305]

When I am printing with PETG doing infill that's where I find it gets messy.

[@eightball3706]

Have you tried adjusting the “decelerate/delay for filament cooling” settings? I’m new to this but I think its what you were saying was missing but it’s just represented different. Great videos man!!

[@justmakeitdaniel7667]

Ahh I never really paid too much attention to that section. Now that you mention it, it should work similarly to a setting simplify3D has

[@charlesfield9286]

very nice! thank you

[@Tsipli]

i got a wider nozzle and tried almost everything im gona try speed tomorow

[@danamccarthy5514]

Similar setting in Cura of minimum layer time

[@JoJoNumbarOne]

Good suggestion!

[@ferdinandoportel]

You mean that if i intend to use PETG i am obliged to spend almost 200 bucks in a proprietary software? Come on! My only logical conclusion is that the inventors of the filament are partners in the software company.

[@maklucien]

Actually I dry my PETG filament in the oven for 80 min with 80 to 100°C and it works great for a few hours since I’m in an environment with lots of moisture

[@justmakeitdaniel7667]

woah you dry at 80C-100C? That seems a little too hot since PETG starts to transition between those temperatures. Glad it works for you

[@eivitux]

gracias su video me ha dado la pista para poder trabajar

[@JDubsPub]

Hi, Daniel. Great videos, I have watched almost all of them! I have been very much considering the Adventurer 4, but every review I have watched have mostly negative things to say about it. Granted most of the reviews are from when it first came out. After having yours for a while now, do you think it is a worthy printer and especially for the price? Would you buy it again if you could go back? Thank you in advance.

[@justmakeitdaniel7667]

Hey JDub, I recently got a second one to test if my first one was defective and sure enough, the second one actually had some noticeable improvements. That being said, if I were to do things over again, I would probably try going with the Prusa and if I really wanted to print ABS, I’d just create my own enclosure. I’ve just heard from many people that the Prusa is the standard of 3D printers

[@JDubsPub]

@@justmakeitdaniel7667 Thank you for the feedback, Daniel,. I greatly appreciate it!

[@ImaginaPower]

Set retraction at 10-15mm and retraction speed at 80mm/s that will help you a lot . Check that your part cooling is enough. I did those things and had exactly your problems with petg but now I print at 60mm/s with no problems whatsoever

[@t3chninja_official]

Sorry but spending $150 is not in most of our budgets to fix a settings issue. I was excited about your video then discovered the $150 price and was like nope! I don't mind supporting software but $150 is crazy expensive for most of us I think. I''m going to try messing with the Cura 'minimum layer time' and turning off Z-hop. My prints adhere and stick find but the infill is getting destroyed. The outside and overhangs look great around 225-230 with my SUNLU PETG. I'm really hoping I can get these settings figured out. This is going better then my last go around with a crappy Overture PETG roll I got. It was defective from the start and their support really tried to help my but concluding a bad roll and gave me a refund. I really need PETG to print some stronger more heat resistant parts. Crossing my fingers!

[@justmakeitdaniel7667]

You can absolutely do the same thing in superslicer and cura. When I made this video, I hadn’t figured out how to get Cura working with my printer and didn’t even know superslicer existed.

[@t3chninja_official]

@@justmakeitdaniel7667 I also discovered Cura has an experimental feature for bridging! It's helped with getting bridging now but still ugly as sin. I'm going to try another temperature tower with thicker bridges. Thanks!

[@shiftyjesusfish]

Easy middle ground. Preheat bed to 75 c. Let it come up to temp and sit AT temp for like 15-20 mins. Then run bed level while the heat remains on..... only relevel bed with a preheated bed from now on. Solved

[@My3DPrints-ve8zl]

Sooooo your part cooling needs a bit of an upgrade Awesome!! Disabling Z-hop can cause print failures more frequently, be nice if there was a setting to Z-hop after the wipe as you put it.. the plastics expand and warp and shift as they cool ever so slight bit is enough to cause the nozzle to snag on a set beaded layer of plastic and rip that part right off the build plate or cause a skip in the steps causing layer shifts honestly not a good idea to disable it, keep the Z-hop we like the Z-hop, Z-hop Good!!

[@graphguy]

As a new 3dp owner, I appreciate engineers like you piecing through it. But I give an "F" to printer and filament makers for not making this a highly accurate and published at 500% enlargement how to get perfect results.

[@eridanusii268]

Marlin has linear advance literally developed to solve this problem....or pressure advance in klipper..... also if you work in resonance in klipper and you're golden..... you didn't have to waste all that filament either, just a few lines and a calibration block and you're all set

[@ofonwilliam]

Nice one, unfortunately flashprint slicer doesn't give you as much flexibility as with other slicers like ultimaker or cura,but the issue is rarely the slicer but your slicing settings. You need to adjust the settings that are tailored to the specific issues you are experiencing, e.g you can't adjust infill density and expect it to solve a stringing issue which is obviously due to retraction speed and distance. I had similar issue on guider3, i adjusted the bed temp to 70c (with all the lids close to trap the heat), lowered the speed to about 40m/s and it came out 90% fine

[@awesomusmaximus3766]

I have alot to learn

[@hasger1941]

Really do not understand what is causing this, have seen petg printed at over 60mm/s without any issue clean parts just like pla

[@alexey.boguslavsky]

Thank you!

[@HKYT649]

thx

[@MobileDecay]

I saw the thumbnail and I was like"What's going on with Unreal engine. 🤔"

[@izwanmohd]

bruh S3D havent been updated for more than 2 year+ almost like it a abandone ware right now, I been using it since 2015 last updates was in 2018? yeah it have some features that neat but now I think other free slicer superseed it althought I still use it from time to time when Cura not cutting it, I wish they provide more update with the software

[@justmakeitdaniel7667]

Well aware that it hasn’t been updated but I find it’s great for running multiple prints. Cura has a script that can change parameters but the problem is that it uses decimal points in the temperature value which my printer ends up reading as 0 degrees

[@izwanmohd]

@@justmakeitdaniel7667 which script is that? problem with simplify3d is I can't use the custom klipper macro with it as only cura have the script to do the post processing for the macro input value, but I agree S3D still use for some print like the support generation is still way better than other slicer even thought it is outdated

[@bwselectronic]

I would look at Cura. It would probably handle what you need

[@shiftyjesusfish]

Double also, use cura.

[@patrickjames3321]

Damn, this guy did all the wrong shit, I’m trying to print PTEG and it is annoying, but this guys is something else

[@rampart1234]

Get an Artillery Genius and use Cura. Excellent prints with PETG.

[@BigHustla666]

What settings do you have in Cura? I have problems with PETG on my SidewinderX2.

[@wtfmimshag]

These videos are great Daniel. You must be the only one producing content for this printer that actually paid for the thing. I've got one ordered, even understanding the various pitfalls. Have many years of tinkering with creality clones, so working hard for good prints is the norm. I know the Adv4 gets a lot of flack for marketing itself as a no-fuss printer, but to be honest it's still consumer grade hardware (and pricing). Suspect a lot of the negative attitudes towards flashforge are a result of the closed source approach. Great to hear S3D is playing nice, just need some rudimentary functionality with octoprint now ;) On PETG, cooling fans are the devil and create a lot of the wispy artefacts. For that reason I think it's a good material for simple, functional, structural parts that ideally need no cooling fan - but lends itself poorly to detail prints. But if you're doing prints with a lot of fine detail, PLA is probably sufficient anyway. Would love to hear more about your adventures with ABS as i think this is where the real potential of the Ad4 resides, given very few enclosed units exist in this segment.

[@bbusyflying]

You can use pla plus for additional strength and ease of printing as pla

[@eldiablo3124]

me watching this after baking my recycled PETG in the oven at 100+ degrees like 🙈

[@r4z0r84]

thank god its not just me, bloody hate printing petg on my flashforge adventurer 4 >.>

[@madforit9661]

Brilliant

[@b1tw0nder]

Even better is to put a dwell gcode in the layer change custom gcode

[@willmoffatt3081]

The standoff distance needs to be greater for petg than pla which is one of the causes of your issue.

[@rondlh20]

10:40 "Dried", you must be kidding! Use nickel coated nozzles, print slowly (45-60mm/s), and print at as low temp as you can get away with.

[@mykolayasynskyi4619]

Very useful information! But can you please move a way from camera, just a little bit... Because i feel like your entering my personal space space, lol🤣

[@PCPointerDE]

Why do you call it "secret?" If you have dry PETG filament and standard PETG setting you can print it like PLA.

[@solarpowerforever]

232 - 81 degree petg and print nice

[@lgnrome]

i subscribed and glad i found this video

[@mhrcracing]

10:10 for the answer, youre welcome

[@Seether4ever1986]

It dosent really make sense You started the video saying you fixed with 1 single settings But actually at the end after some story you came out with using a different slicer