The SECRET To Nailing Your Exposure EVERY TIME

There’s something pros know about exposure that means they come home from every photo shoot with perfect images, and beginners always ignore it.
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So in this video I’m going to show you a simple method pros use to easily capture perfectly exposed images, without ever having to worry about all the complicated stuff, like calculating stops, ambient light or metering so you never have to worry about missing the shot again.

[@SteveArnoldPhoto]

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[@love4wildlife]

This advice is spot on. As a wildlife photog, it’s the single most important thing I did that increased my keeper rate. To illustrate, imagine a bird in flight that moves from a dark forest background up into a bright sky. Left to the camera, settings would change. But as long as the light on the bird remains constant, you don’t want your camera settings changed. Full manual mode ensures that and you don’t have to worry about adjusting settings while trying to track the moving subject. Great video, Steve.

[@RetrieverTrainingAlone]

For moving wildlife bracketing will not work. Typically a shutter speed of 1/500 - 1/000 sec is used. For birds in flight 1/2000 sec. For humming birds in flight 1/4000 sec. We sometimes have to live with high ISO values and noise post-processing using Topaz Labs software.

[@stevepuddlejumperpilot6062]

I enjoyed this video. Thank you for taking the time and uploading it.

[@mustaphaalaouie5446]

Thank you for making this video and sharing this knowledge, I’ve been trying to use manual mode when shooting on my camera so these tips are useful, very much appreciated.

[@grahamf695]

I can see that this is one way to do it, which works for you. If you want lots of shots with t[exactly the same exposure, then this is a good approach. However, you are still using the camera’s meter, which is what auto mode does. In camera, it is often hard to see whether you have blown particular highlights or crushed the blacks. I use aperture priority mode (Av) almost all the time. I set the minimum shutter speed to prevent blurring and may alter it depending on the type of shooting. I have the histogram turned on in the viewfinder, so I have a clear indication of whether the exposure is drifting too low or high. Of course, the histogram is also useful in manual mode. Also shoot in raw to maximise exposure latitude.

[@brookstorm9789]

Thanks. Very helpful

[@nismo8319]

I wish I saw this video when I was starting out. You did an amazing job explaining and simplifying all of these settings. Great educational video.

[@dascudder]

Only took me 2 months of watching different youtube videos to get someone to explain it to us noobies in idiot terms. Well done fella, what a great jumping off point this is

[@SteveArnoldPhoto]

Hey mate, thanks for your comment! Great to hear this one helped!

[@user-kj3ch3ke8m]

Steve, you blend entry-level basic information with really useful advice for someone who knows the basics and wants some guidance/reassurance as to the best approach. Thanks for such a clear explanation. My camera (Fujifilm XT-5) is pretty good at handling the noise problem at high ISO levels, so I leave my ISO on auto a lot of the time; I'm much less happy with the Auto-aperture approach (street photography's a different discussion). For some reason, though, I'd drifted away a bit from using full auto: you've given me the confidence to go back to it. Terrific video - thanks so much!

[@LisaW-ss5vb]

Excellent video. Really useful.

[@Naqsipsaq]

Great tip! That’s exactly my approach

[@michgreeno1]

I just use the histogram.

[@aural_supremacy]

I have taken better photos in manual using the +/- scale and the best shots have the histogram way over to the left which of course needs shadow adjustment of the raw file but if you blow the highlights they are are a lot more difficult to fix so I expose for the highlights with the expose scale histogram just goes for the mid tones

[@lonceyswildcairns333]

Thanks so much for sharing your experiences using both ways 😊❤

[@bahatimoa]

Classic.

[@anthonywilliamson7323]

Great video I’m a beginner and I’ve always found it difficult to get the right exposure your explanation has made sense

[@DENIALNZ]

Good video, easy to understand !

[@angielinza-wiesen4109]

Thank you!

[@tonykeltsflorida]

Canon FV mode is what I use. When using the EVF (electronic view finder) outdoors the scene will show you what your photo will look like. FV is almost Manual mode but I find it easier to react and make changes in FV mode.

[@thilobraun3440]

Same with me. I like the FV Mode on the R Models. I have an R7.

[@mendo35]

I've always struggled with getting exposer correct in the camera, (usually fixed in Lightroom) so will definitely try your method next time I'm out.

[@Ivanhoo11]

Nice video... nice edit and explanation

[@lonceyswildcairns333]

Cheers so much, this is easy... Also thank you so much for all your generosity too 😊❤

[@SteveArnoldPhoto]

You're welcome, thanks for letting me know it works for you!

[@lonceyswildcairns333]

@SteveArnoldPhoto you're welcome anytime ☺️ I don't have a camera yet, but will save this video, just in case I end up, getting one ❤️

[@iancraig]

In the 60’ and 70’s, using roll film, if we didn’t want to use a meter, we started from this …. a) same shutter speed as ISO. (100 asa = 1/100th sec) b) Sunny, f16. Bright f8. Cloudy f5.6. Very dingy f4. c) Juggle shutter up or down wherever you want but move the aperture the same number of clicks in the opposite direction. So if it was Sunny. F16 at 1/100th for 100 ISO. However, for shallow depth of field an ND or move the aperture to f1.8 but move the shutter up to a faster speed by the same number of clicks. I was using an old Mamiya C330 at one time and it really worked. Maybe roll film had more latitude but it was a handy little rule for preparing your camera in advance for running and gunning.

[@lonceyswildcairns333]

@@iancraig Awesome as, thanks heaps for this ❤️ This could be used on a multiple focal lengths mobile phone cameras too ☺️

[@bryantwalley]

2:30 the exposure indicator is calculated using the same algorithm that auto mode uses. If you want a great balanced photo, use your camera settings to dial in your LCD to match what you are seeing in your actual photo and your histogram. When those three things match you have a solid baseline to begin your corrections. Next, depending on your order of priority, go into the settings and set the ma/min auto settings for ISO, aperture, and shutter speed you are willing to accept for this particular photo shoot. If you do this every time you will get good at it. Now put the camera in full Auto and take a few test shots. Look at what values it is using then put your camera in manual mode and fine tune it to what you want to see. Once you have done this process a few times it will become habit and you will be able to dial in the camera very quickly every time.

[@moinsalam1010]

Simple n good..🎉

[@chromakeyblue]

I tried your method and it worked perfect. Easily understood and easy for me. Thank you.

[@SteveArnoldPhoto]

Thats great to hear, thank you!

[@VaporTrailMix]

This seems fine for landscape photography. Where you're pointing in one general direction and using a tripod. It's much trickier in event photography where lighting changes as you change direction from back ligting to front lighting not to mention if you're zooming in and out between shots.

[@nospam-hn7xm]

And to your point, here is another approach to the "manual with . . . " way of thinking. It uses the ISO. When talking about ISO noise, the two videos are a tad contradictory. I'm not saying either is right or wrong. It's up to the individual photographer to decide which method works best for his style/genre of photography: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pXKoh2R-rrhreMk

[@edsweeney7266]

well done

[@jcbevacqua]

Thanks

[@jondemetrius]

Yes. I've use the same method.

[@davidnelson3757]

In the Old film days , I used to take a reading off the road , or grass at football matches to get a fairly accurate exposure

[@kimamey]

An interesting video. I watch a lot of videos on photography by pros and I've never seen one suggest using manual except in certain circumstances. Usually they they suggest using auto ISO, maybe with a limit. ISO isn't normally used creatively, unless you want noise. Then use shutter or aperture priority depending on what you're shooting. In fast changing lighting I'd guess the camera is better and changing quickly.

[@CoasterOutlaws]

You should do a video on adjustment setting when doing video. Great information for photos, but in videos you cant adjust the Shutter too much as it will blur too much of your background. Great video!!

[@oo0RECON0oo]

When you choose exposure compensation you are choosing the exposure live and then you can lock and hold

[@ileogbeniwokhaiunufriday630]

Does this apply to studio photography also?

[@RetrieverTrainingAlone]

For moving wildlife bracketing will not work. Typically a shutter speed of 1/500 - 1/000 sec is used. For birds in flight 1/2000 sec. For humming birds in flight 1/4000 sec. We sometimes have to live with high ISO values and noise post-processing using Topaz Labs software.

[@point73.]

I think his advice is primarily meant for the average amateur photographer, but what you said is still good to know.

[@RetrieverTrainingAlone]

@@point73. Yes, his method bracketing exposure does not work EVERY TIME, only it applications where the subject is not moving.

[@owenjones-wells9395]

​@@RetrieverTrainingAloneAlso depends if you're using a tripod or not. While I do do landscapes, I use a monopod for ease of transport. Bracketing is then not possible.

[@khaledhafiz]

Thanks. Very informative. I do appreciate that you did not ask to subscribe & like. This is really a very professional way.

[@SteveArnoldPhoto]

Thank you very much!

[@b991228]

Sometimes having a dynamic range that is greater than the camera can handle can be an advantage. The fact that in a portrait of Orson Wells in the movie ‘The Third Man’ you can’t see his ears is irrelevant because is is the highlighted eyes and mouth that you what the viewers attention to be drawn to. You learn where you want the perfect exposure to be within the composition.

[@SteveArnoldPhoto]

I like that perspective :) thanks!

[@barrysharoff6537]

Steve, have you tried to develop a similar technique for LRC, since it also has luminosity masking capabilities? Thanks so much for the helpful video.

[@SteveArnoldPhoto]

Hi Barry, thanks for your question. LRC has introduced a lot of great tools recently including the masking stuff, but it's still not on the same level as Photoshop. The best example I can give quickly is the case of manually blending multiple exposures, which isnt doable in LR because you can't put two images in separate layers of the same LR document and mask them into each other. Cheers!

[@barrysharoff6537]

@@SteveArnoldPhoto Got it. Thanks so much for responding.

[@giandeguzman6402]

Isnt F8 and up going to make it too dark? Forcing me to use a shutter 1/60 or slower

[@blacksheep6888]

My camera has no light meter in manual mode with non dedicated lenses so I just guess and then adjust as needed

[@avishkarmahind2013]

Good Information....But one thing you didn't mentioned about metering mode...its the main fact that affect exposure...

[@taygunsonat]

Can u share settings for gopro 12 ? İ need settings for day and night. Please can u share

[@SteveArnoldPhoto]

sorry, i wouldn't have any idea about go pro settings.

[@sedwards7428]

how to blend photos using dark table

[@user-kb6xn6ig7k]

05:25: doesn't bracketing do this automatically for us ?

[@emilzezov6624]

Iso dont make a noise ,you can take a picture on highest iso witout noice !

[@eszeezee6967]

2:14 shutter 1s, f16, ISO100. Not changing the aperture and ISO, shouldn't the shutter speed be slower to allow more light in? Am I dumb or do I need to go relearn my basics?? I tested this setting on my camera, the image gets darker when i increase the shutter speed. Am I misunderstanding this video? English is not my first language.

[@sedwards7428]

how to use editing for those that do not have photoshop/lightroom

[@RRan-dk7ct]

So auto exposure lock should be off ?

[@davey.alvarez]

Sorry but I disagree, it all depends on the photo you are taking. Manual mode works superb when things don't change, or does it slowly, if you have to change a photo from a a light surrounding to a dark, the seconds nedded to change the dials, check the eposure meter or better the histogram , the photo opportunity is often gone. Manual is great for "manual shots", if a photo is ok in iso 100 it will also be ok on iso 200- 400- 800. While a photo with shutterspeed 1/100, 1/60/ 1/30 , 1/15 will most likely be not usable. There is no one setting to rule them all.. I would suggest people learn when to use Aperture & shutterspeed priority. Iso is just a volume mode, the other two changes how you photos look and feel. Iso 100... Never use it unless is suppersunny on the beach.

[@SteveArnoldPhoto]

Of course every possible photography question has a "it depends" answer to some degree. I think my video covers most bases, especially in the context of landscape photography.

[@stevesvids]

For noobies its important to understand that the exposure meter is only a guide and is not a solid rule. It is designed for capturing average content scenes, with average lighting so that the mix of all the light collected forms 18% grey. Fine for those average conditions. However, step outside of those averagely lit conditions and that 18% grey calculation will turn your image too bright or too dark.

[@segura455]

I have a weeding soon, my first weeding for free . With Flash, what should I do

[@SteveArnoldPhoto]

hey, I think if you're shooting a wedding soon and need help, you should probably search youtube for some specific wedding photography videos and maybe ask those guys - they have better advice than I can give for that type of photography.

[@RyanLunaPhotography]

Did I miss it? All this talk about "Nailing Your Exposure EVERY TIME", and not a single reference to the camera's histogram?

[@dusty3913]

If you’re allowing the exposure comp range to guide you, you might as well be using some auto mode. There’s nothing wrong with this. But, you might as well use Auto ISO. Otherwise, you’re just chimping anyway.

[@SteveArnoldPhoto]

You only need to use the cameras meter for the first test shot, then one or two adjustments by eye from there and you're set. no chimping required

[@lucy_76]

Just bought my first camera, a Canon EOS 2000D Rebel T7 DSLR Camera to get into photography and so far I've only used auto mode because it's so confusing. Most photos I take are indoors with terrible lighting. The only time I get great shots are outside, which is usually not practical. Have watched a lot of videos trying to figure it out and only get more confused. Any suggestions of sites or videos to assist in showing me how to use the different settings is appreciated. Camera bundle also came with 18-55mm Lens as well as Canon EF 85mm F/1.8 USM Lens also comes with the attachable flash.

[@SteveArnoldPhoto]

Have you tried the method i demonstrate in this video? It should work regardless of location, although I guess it depends what you mean exactly by terrible lighting.

[@lucy_76]

@@SteveArnoldPhoto dark living room with low light but I'm going to try your method, although it's super scary trying to adjust things worried I'll mess something up.

[@trowdwp]

@@lucy_76just practice. That’s what I did. Constantly. It’s only a photo, no one will die. Enjoy it ❤

[@SteveArnoldPhoto]

@@lucy_76 if youre in low light, start with smaller f number than I suggested (f4 or f2.8 if your lens allows). And start with a higher ISO than I suggested - maybe 800. Then see what shutter speed you need to use to make the right brightness. Depending HOW dark the room is, it may be ok, otherwise your shots may be blurry because of the shutter speed. Anyway give it a go and let me know how you get on

[@lucy_76]

@@SteveArnoldPhoto thank you, I'm going to try that

[@jchawkjr2]

Naw. You’re telling me to worry about 3 settings for every shot. What exposure compensation will get it close enough. The rest can be fixed I post processing.

[@SteveArnoldPhoto]

you do you, mate

[@grahamniven]

Aperture controls depth of field Shutter speed controls blur ISO controls brightness Simply use as required to get your desired look. p.s. there is no right or wrong exposure it's all artistic choice p.p.s. there are no rules in photography

[@Koensol]

P.p.p.s you're wrong. Both aperture and shutter speed also affect the brightness/exposure of your picture.

[@grahamniven]

Altering brightness is only a secondary effect of adjusting aperture and shutter speed. Adjusting brightness is the only thing ISO does.

[@Koensol]

@@grahamniven I know that. But you made it sound as though aperture and shutter speed only affect one thing.

[@grahamniven]

@@Koensol no, you simply chose to interpret it in a specific way. There's a lot more to learn than "correct" exposure. First thing to learn, exposure is an artistic choice.

[@Koensol]

@@grahamniven You literally list 3 things, and say "use as required". Yes, everything is an interpretation, but idk why you would list these things on a video about exposure. Why would you point out shutter speed controls motion blur in a video that is about exposure, which shutter speed also affects, and then say to use as required? Maybe I'm missing something here, but its kinda confusing.

[@Money1Films]

Nobody comes home with perfect photos every time

[@j.whisper2379]

By the time you go manual, many shots will be gone!

[@jagoschlino375]

Ok and what about HDR? That is exactly what HDR does. It takes three pictures with different brightness and put them together for better contrast.

[@SteveArnoldPhoto]

That's not exactly what HDR does...

[@colintraveller]

Use the live screen duhhh

[@lesberkley3821]

You are using the same light meter that the camera's auto modes use, The "Full Manual" myth is funny. I know, because it was the only method in existence when I took up photography.

[@SteveArnoldPhoto]

yeah thats why I said use it to get close, then manually adjust from there. much easier than figuring it out without the meter, and manual adjustment after means you're not blindly relying on it.

[@fredbloggs545]

Or I can use DR 400% and not worry about it.

[@segura455]

They said apertures last to change??

[@wanneske1969]

This only applies to taking pics of landscapes on a tripod

[@SteveArnoldPhoto]

my partner uses the same method for pet photography, but yeah this video is clearly in the landscape context

[@wanneske1969]

@@SteveArnoldPhoto For pet photography I wouldn't have the camera decide the shutter speed ...

[@SteveArnoldPhoto]

@@wanneske1969 Im not saying to let the camera decide the shutter speed. The video is about using full manual mode and making all the decisions yourself.

[@TroyQwert]

Never film in portrait mode unless you film for TikTok or #Shorts. Even in that case it is not necessary. 😊

[@MrChillehead]

everyone will be a pro with ai

[@WavyFBaby]

Obviously good advice but nothing special at all. This is common knowledge even for entry level photographers. I expected more from this channel..

[@SteveArnoldPhoto]

I guess I can't do much about your own expectations. Thanks anyway :)

[@RollerballerYT]

@@SteveArnoldPhotodon’t listen to him. I’m new and got my first cam last week and I needed this. Spent $500 and I’m so lost and feel hopeless

[@SteveArnoldPhoto]

Thanks mate, I appreciate it. Keep your head up - you're not alone! One of the biggest problems when you're starting out is having so much information available (eg on KZbin) it can be overwhelming. If you haven't already, feel free to sign up to my mailing list by downloading my free photoshop plugin (link is in my KZbin channel main page) - then reply to any of the emails you get and I'll be glad to help point you in the right direction Cheers

[@elderton]

Nothing like a photography snob. Entry level photographers don't use manual mode and as one find videos like this helpful.

[@WavyFBaby]

@@elderton he took six minutes to explain the exposure triangle, a basic fundamental. His channel has been established and he made a video about something so basic. 🤡

[@orinorio1]

People who don't know these basic camera sitting just bought the camera to talk about it an have no interest in being a 'pro' photographer 😊

[@ericgofreed1651]

When photographing static subjects under consistent lighting conditions, using the full manual setting on your camera can be incredibly advantageous. It allows for precise control over exposure, aperture, and shutter speed, ensuring that you can achieve the exact look and feel you desire in your photos. However, as a bird photographer, the situation changes dramatically. Birds are dynamic subjects, often moving unpredictably and rapidly. Additionally, the lighting conditions can vary quickly and significantly. In such scenarios, relying on fully manual settings makes it impossible to obtain correct exposure. To capture these fleeting moments, I depend on my camera's automatic modes (Auto-ISO), which can adapt to changes in lighting and movement faster than humanly possible, ensuring well-exposed images.