What PROs knows about Camera Metering You May NOT

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In this video I share with you how to use your metering modes, which one to choose. What is evaluative, matrix, average, spot metering and more!
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[@Pierretlambert]

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[@dance2jam]

Thanks for the video. Two quick points. I still use spot metering on the occasion (in wildlife) in specific situations with dark subject on bright background or visa-versa. Second, letting your ISO change the marker on your metering to 0/0 does not mean it's properly exposed. It simply means that the images is at the brightness level the camera believes it should be. Exposure (as you know) is simply the light hitting the sensor via aperture and shutter speed. ISO is simply brightness or post-processing amplification.

[@veskoveskov1073]

I love the way the channel is going. More about teaching, great. Keep going the same way.

[@Pierretlambert]

Thank you! I may have to start a new channel with these videos lol...

[@Mike1984-lc9rh]

I only work in manual mode with live-view, starting out with ISO based on how dark it is and moving objects, then background composition aka aperture, and lastly shutter speed.

[@markstpierre]

great information. I didn't know about the Face Priority in Multi-Metering setting, and that explains some of my issues as well. Thanks !!

[@aviationPhotographer22]

Great content as always!

[@victahh281]

Thank you! I've been looking for a video that explains the multiple metering modes and hadn't found one I understand. This is a great simple and concise explanation.

[@ShillingTechy]

Perfect Timing, not too long ago I was about to look up what metering is for and how to use it. Great Video

[@lonceyswildcairns333]

Merci much Pierre 😊 So helpful ❤

[@ronaldmoravec2692]

I use Nikon Z and center weighted and move camera to include balance of tones. Lately I set camera to A and have the rear command dial set to exposure comp. Now the camera A mode gets me close and compensation gets it perfect. Camera is set to show histogram before exposure. Never chimp, never miss. In computer raw profile set to flat or low contrast and then auto. This gets me close and I only need small corrections. Try linear profile if you like this.

[@NathanTrimbach]

Some of us not so old school guys still use an external handheld light meter! Great video btw. Metering is so important and overlooked today.

[@csc-photo]

I'm generally in matrix, or highlight-weighted matrix metering. The latter is super for stage events - dance, plays, concerts. I might use center-weighted for macro, and spot metering is pretty rare these days. I also generally have my lens control ring set to exposure comp, if I'm in my default mode of Manual with Auto-ISO. this makes for a really quick exposure adjustment when needed.

[@maxhighstein]

Well done. Thanks!

[@angelathomas2117]

Hi this has been a very helpful video for me I will try these settings Thank you

[@martinpetkov55]

Great content!

[@kagezen]

Thanks Pierre you're awesome!

[@yakamo]

I use manual mode with spot metering. Got an old canon 100D, but get amazing results out of it.

[@robby_0816]

The bonus tip was very helpful for me. I had exactly this problem on my last shoot and now I know how to avoid it in future. Thanks a lot!

[@photobyconrad]

Such a nice Video, made my Day :)

[@asepnaziulirpan4981]

its very helpfull. thanks a lot

[@ColdCoffeePhotography]

Never knew about face priority, thanks Pierre! 😊

[@c4pound]

I used to use metering back in Dslr day, spot metering to be specific. In order to calculate the light and darkness on each spot. Now I rarely used it. Live preview on mirrorless is so good. Not to mention wavefrom and false colour on some camera

[@peterwilson7532]

Histograms! If you are shooting RAW expose the histogram to the right just before it clips the high tones. You will now have pictures you can extract maximum detail from.

[@davidligon6088]

I typically shoot in spot metering (with emphasis on focus location) when shooting birds. Often birds will be flying against a dark shadowy background or against a bright sky. This helps make sure the camera is metering on the bird. I always have face metering on for the same reason. The rest of the time, I am in Multi Metering mode. Regardless which mode I am in, I have Zebra turned on with a 1.09+ setting, watch for over exposed areas and adjust manually, or with the exposure compensation dial in order to not blow out highlights. Of course, Milky Way photography is a completely different workflow.

[@THEKIKSOFTEXAS]

Really like the way you explained metering Ive been using center metering for most of my photos but I thing that exposing for the light in my night walks would be a huge difference im wanting to try

[@jeffmiller6343]

I use the same method as you, multi metering and use exposure compensation. I have face priority metering turned on and still ride the exposure compensation to override as needed.

[@rolvmariusfaleide3093]

I’ve used spot a lot on smaller wildlife, and evaluative (canon) for portraits. I like putting an on camera flash even in the day just to balance things out a bit in the daytime. I use -2/3 stop on the flash meter and -1/3 on the ambient. My camera isn’t the newest greatest (RP) but it holds up all right. I like using manual mode and refer to the histogram. A useful trick is to exposure bracket in rapid burst. 3 shots -1, 0 and +1, it’s the easiest way to always get one useful picture every time.

[@Pierretlambert]

True for the bracketing!! Thanks for sharing

[@singaporehikers]

Without a light meter, u can meter your palm less 1-stop will be roughly about 18% grey. Or just measure grass which is about 18% grey.

[@ms.andreeam]

That's exactly what I use too - matrix metering; I feel like it's the best light metering option and I love how it balances everything out. I feel like you can't go wrong with this one.😊

[@stkuj]

I've been using Face Priority since the A7III. Bonus Tip: activate focus point link and change AWB to white priority.

[@finalclutch]

I really like the Face Priority Metering mode on my A7IV. I feel it helps me ensure that my subjects are properly exposed. I know you mentioned to turn it off and use exposure comp. Isn't it effectively the same to keep it on and use exposure comp, too. I have zebra lines turned of for highlights. So I'm always keeping any eye out for blown out highlights.

[@freekvanbuul5100]

Thnx for the video. Only time I use spotmetering is when shooting bands on stage and a lot of fast changing lights are used (direction, color, intensity). The the only thing that matters: my target that must be metered right.

[@chekchow]

exposure lock helps when you use spot metering

[@ralphj.5186]

Still using a lightmeter for studio portraits with flash

[@nevvanclarke9225]

I'm a landscape photographer and I use average as it works the best for uneven light admittedly though I do use GFX camera so it makes it fairly easy with metering because the dynamic range is so good in the camera. It's not such an issue with medium format, but if you're using crop sensor cameras or micro 4/3rds metering is critical

[@whiplite]

On my Lumix G9 I have a metering mode called Cneter-Weighted. It measures light from the entire clacene with emphasis on the center I do not believe I have any type of face metering BUT there is a mode called Hilight Shadow where I can apply Baked in curves right into the image... but I don't use it

[@cpplinford]

I still use spot because I don't like it when my camera accidentally meters for the background instead of my subject. But I' willing to try this!

[@tme500ify]

nice video but I can't use exposure compensation but only shutter speed in manual mode

[@seaeagles6025]

Hi Pierre, another very useful video this was I really enjoyed it. The Only time I use Spot Metering is when I photograph the Moon. By using Spot Metering for the Moon it doesn't have that very bright colour outside the circle of the Moon. I find it's the best way to shoot the Moon. So my final picture is just the Moon and anywhere outside of the Moon is Dark. Many thanks for this great video and your tips and settings, much appreciated. 😊

[@seaeagles6025]

Thanks Pierre 😊

[@Dariusproductions]

Thanks Pierre, do u permanently stay in Tokyo ?

[@arportuense]

Hello, the Canon R6 II has this configuration

[@LatentePhoto]

i use spot+evlock. matrix/evalutive is a "rudimental" AI mode, the camera subdivide the image in zones and do a spot measure for each one, then use information like lens used, focal distance, scene color, point of af the try to understand what are you doing and use an huge database of case to find the correct exposure. when someone said "i shot in manual" using matrix/evaltative make me laugh.

[@Mortenthorpe-DK]

Tbh! The fastest most reliable way is still an external light meter - Sekonic is the best (only one?) - even the cheapest ones are nice… remember to calibrate it to your camera-brand though

[@HilmarSchacht-zm8kg]

You must have the lifetime of cat 😂 too cumbersome

[@Mortenthorpe-DK]

@@HilmarSchacht-zm8kg have you even tried using a light meter??? your comment sounds like pure nonsense

[@ChristianLawrence]

Another great video Pierre. Have you any idea about this? The dynamic range of the image displayed on the screen seems to be restricted on Sony cameras . For example if I raise the iso to say 12800, then start to decrease shutter speed, the exposure gets blown out to a point. As I further decrease SS below 1s the exposure doesn’t get any brighter and keeps a small part of exposed image on the screen. In context if using a nd10, and I want to boost exposure to see the composition I am unable. Any ideas? Why this occurs. Obviously you have bright monitoring available. No one seems to have the answer, so I thought if anyone would know it would be yourself. Cheers Chris

[@Pierretlambert]

Do you think it is the brightest the screen can show?

[@ChristianLawrence]

@@Pierretlambert no, its not the screen. Seems to be software limitation imo. You also get the effect in reverse if you set 30 sec shutter, then keep raising iso. It gets to point that it stops getting brighter (even when the screen isn’t fully bright) . For example shooting dark sky, the camera won’t you overexpose the image to see what the sensor can see. Might have to fire a question at Sony support. Only picked up on it because the canon r5 could do it. Thanks anyway, thought it was worth asking in case you had come across it. 👍

[@ChoicesHabitsAttitudeLuck]

the face priority off is the correct exposure. Black is black. look at the shirt

[@sergiopaulino859]

I use Multi metering

[@HilmarSchacht-zm8kg]

Centre weighted suits me

[@notmyname8527]

Used to be a problem before. With modern mirrorless cameras not such a big issue

[@KenToney]

I’ve often wondered for bird in flight photography which is better. I normally use matrix on Sony a1 but constantly adjusting exp comp. BTW shooting man with auto iso.

[@rolvmariusfaleide3093]

Spot 😂

[@KenToney]

@@rolvmariusfaleide3093 thanks I’ll try that

[@Peterogen]

❤

[@LMRP-Liam]

I have a question I now have the Nikon d7000 and I want to buy de Sony a7iv do you have any tips

[@Mike1984-lc9rh]

Do it now and don't wait any longer. Buy Sony glass, GM if possible.

[@kh1188ish]

Wait for A7v to be released then buy A7IV. Price will drop a bit especially if you buy it used. Use the savings to buy good glass.

[@Major_T]

I have a 7100 I've been waiting as long as I could to evolve from. I've been studying and comparing lenses and what not in the Sony world for years, waiting for the right time (and the budget to go "wild"). I accepted the fact that Nikon was way behind in mirror less and was fine going to the best. That was until I toyed with the new Nikon zf and went reading everything about it to confirm my feeling. I bought it without even thinking and have no regrets whatsoever. Going from the d7100 to the zf felt like when I went from a cheap bridge to the 7100 many years back.

[@Pierretlambert]

yeah see if you can get a good second hand deal :) or even moving to a A7CII can be a great upgrade

[@Peterogen]

❤❤❤❤❤

[@fquico]

Chouette Alors

[@gustavo66bueno]

But if you have an evf won’t it just show you how the photo will turn out? The point of mirrorless cameras? Having all settings on manual nothing in auto or priority

[@Pierretlambert]

Correct you need the monitor or EVF to show result or if DSLR use the ruler -3 0 +3 to get an idea of your exposure

[@Aviator168]

This is not really needed if you are shooting every thing manually.

[@robertleeimages]

Oh ohh another what the "pro's" know video, what determines one being a pro? How about you "pro's" title them what experienced photographers know because i for one am far from being a pro but i have a lot of experience as a hobbyist

[@Pierretlambert]

Good idea for “experienced”! Will try that next ☺️

[@1967AJB]

At last, I thought, someone who understands metering, but as usual you’ve missed the point, have shown a lack of ability to explain the subject if you do understand it, and in fact have, by your practical demonstration, undermined what you were attempting to say. Metering is not complicated once you understand what you are trying to do, I’m not sure you do.

[@Pierretlambert]

Care to share what you’re referring to? :)

[@1967AJB]

@@Pierretlambert Not at the moment I’m too busy, but I may.