What PROs knows about Camera Metering You May NOT

[@Pierretlambert]

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[@dance2jam]

Thanks for the video. Two quick points. I still use spot metering on the occasion (in wildlife) in specific situations with dark subject on bright background or visa-versa. Second, letting your ISO change the marker on your metering to 0/0 does not mean it's properly exposed. It simply means that the images is at the brightness level the camera believes it should be. Exposure (as you know) is simply the light hitting the sensor via aperture and shutter speed. ISO is simply brightness or post-processing amplification.

[@Pierretlambert]

Thanks for the details. Yes. And that 0/0 is adjusted based on the metering mode chosen. ISO being gain / amplification is probably the thing that took me the longest to understand when I first started, so I double appreciate you putting it out there again

[@dance2jam]

@@Pierretlambert You and me both, brother - that is to completely understand it. I've been speaking to engineers the last two weeks to really break it down and test my knowledge - just for fun? Not sure if it will help me take better photos, but at least now I know what dual gain and the portion of the curve I'm on, and how better to avoid clipping highlights. ;-) Thanks for your patience and understanding!

[@peterwilson7532]

Histograms! If you are shooting RAW expose the histogram to the right just before it clips the high tones. You will now have pictures you can extract maximum detail from.

[@rolvmariusfaleide3093]

I’ve used spot a lot on smaller wildlife, and evaluative (canon) for portraits. I like putting an on camera flash even in the day just to balance things out a bit in the daytime. I use -2/3 stop on the flash meter and -1/3 on the ambient. My camera isn’t the newest greatest (RP) but it holds up all right. I like using manual mode and refer to the histogram. A useful trick is to exposure bracket in rapid burst. 3 shots -1, 0 and +1, it’s the easiest way to always get one useful picture every time.

[@Pierretlambert]

True for the bracketing!! Thanks for sharing

[@yakamo]

I use manual mode with spot metering. Got an old canon 100D, but get amazing results out of it.

[@csc-photo]

I'm generally in matrix, or highlight-weighted matrix metering. The latter is super for stage events - dance, plays, concerts. I might use center-weighted for macro, and spot metering is pretty rare these days. I also generally have my lens control ring set to exposure comp, if I'm in my default mode of Manual with Auto-ISO. this makes for a really quick exposure adjustment when needed.

[@stanobert3475]

I use Nikon's highlight spot Metering mode for a spotlight pointing at an individual on a stage in a theater when I am using aperture priority.

[@chekchow]

exposure lock helps when you use spot metering

[@veskoveskov1073]

I love the way the channel is going. More about teaching, great. Keep going the same way.

[@Pierretlambert]

Thank you! I may have to start a new channel with these videos lol...

[@Alton_Roundtree]

@@Pierretlambert I think you can pivot into these on this channel.

[@davidligon6088]

I typically shoot in spot metering (with emphasis on focus location) when shooting birds. Often birds will be flying against a dark shadowy background or against a bright sky. This helps make sure the camera is metering on the bird. I always have face metering on for the same reason. The rest of the time, I am in Multi Metering mode. Regardless which mode I am in, I have Zebra turned on with a 1.09+ setting, watch for over exposed areas and adjust manually, or with the exposure compensation dial in order to not blow out highlights. Of course, Milky Way photography is a completely different workflow.

[@itst0000]

how would you spot meter against a blown out sky shooting manual?

[@davidligon6088]

@@itst0000 there are times when proper metering on the bird is more important than a blown out sky. Imagine bird in the shade of a tree or the edge of a marsh, with sections of bright sky showing through. I would prefer the bird, and most leaves, be properly metered than the patches of sky, especially if I am shooting at high shutter speed/ISO. Trying to push exposure on a dark bird often results in an enormous amount of noise. Next, imagine a bird flying overhead, against a bright sky. The bottom of the bird will surely be underexposed if one adjusts for the sky. I’m fine, in some circumstances, with a white sky. That said, I often use zebras on my Sony camera and will compromise, with emphasis on the bird. Landscape is completely different because the low ISO typically allows more dynamic range, allowing me to push and pull exposure more.

[@watchlover8297]

Currently using spot metering for landscapes. I use the histogram all the time and adjust the exposure and blend/balance in post afterwards. 99.9% of the time its fine. I exposure blend and focus stack btw.

[@jeffmiller6343]

I use the same method as you, multi metering and use exposure compensation. I have face priority metering turned on and still ride the exposure compensation to override as needed.

[@kennethbehrens8874]

Spot metering with AE lock. This way the exposure is locked for the scene regardless of the camera positioning, then minor adjustments with exposure compensation can be made. This works for me.

[@stkuj]

I've been using Face Priority since the A7III. Bonus Tip: activate focus point link and change AWB to white priority.

[@finalclutch]

I really like the Face Priority Metering mode on my A7IV. I feel it helps me ensure that my subjects are properly exposed. I know you mentioned to turn it off and use exposure comp. Isn't it effectively the same to keep it on and use exposure comp, too. I have zebra lines turned of for highlights. So I'm always keeping any eye out for blown out highlights.

[@mksundstrom]

My camera has been set to start up "Center-weighted" because in most cases I'm taking a picture of a subject. I switch to multi-meter for most other instances. I also prefer most of my delight shots to be between a quarter to half a stop underexposed, because I prefer underexposed shadows to overexposed highlights.

[@WMedl]

I only shoot in manual mode and use spot metering when using Ansel Adams zone system - in delicate situations to get the main subjects properly exposed. Otherwise I use what you call multi metering mode consulting the histogram

[@Trident_Media7104]

I like to have my Histogram showing on my Sony a7iii, I keep an eye on how well balanced it is and how the scene looks in the EVF.

[@freekvanbuul5100]

Thnx for the video. Only time I use spotmetering is when shooting bands on stage and a lot of fast changing lights are used (direction, color, intensity). The the only thing that matters: my target that must be metered right.

[@itst0000]

how do you spot meter multi ppl on stage?

[@freekvanbuul5100]

Multi ppl is people? In my opinion there is always one most important target, so I don’t mind if the rest is less accurate metered. Most of the time in less fast changing lights it is okay anyway and the effect of spotmetering is less dominant. But in case of intense lights and fast light flashing all over the podium spot metering is key for me.

[@singaporehikers]

Without a light meter, u can meter your palm less 1-stop will be roughly about 18% grey. Or just measure grass which is about 18% grey.

[@jhoang861]

haha that’s the classic way of metering with film cameras back in the days when we couldn’t afford a meter or forgot our gray card.

[@ms.andreeam]

That's exactly what I use too - matrix metering; I feel like it's the best light metering option and I love how it balances everything out. I feel like you can't go wrong with this one.😊

[@matzhoffmann]

Hi Pierre, thank you for your wonderful explanations, not only in this video but in all the other videos too. It really helps me to understand the many complicated camera settings and to find and set the simplest and most practical solutions possible. Thank you again.

[@whiplite]

On my Lumix G9 I have a metering mode called Cneter-Weighted. It measures light from the entire clacene with emphasis on the center I do not believe I have any type of face metering BUT there is a mode called Hilight Shadow where I can apply Baked in curves right into the image... but I don't use it

[@kevinsim1514]

I have the Sony ZV-1. It’s a tiny camera with a tiny sensor. Highlight metering works great in the Sony ZV-1 for low light situations.

[@venkateshtn8118]

The combination of matrix metering with E compensation is good input… learnt something new…thanks

[@luphan4644]

Center metering with auto exposure lock is honestly the best. Trick your camera to meter the center of the frame, activate AEL, then set your composition. It acts the same way as spot metering but there's no need to navigate buttons to where you want to meter

[@thothheartmaat2833]

i always use center weighted average. its the empty box one.. i just think it usually looks better than evaluative.. but i havent tried some of these new ones yet..

[@kevinstockard4453]

I have a Sony and wasn't aware of the face priority setting. Thanks for the info!

[@Pierretlambert]

Happy to help!

[@nevvanclarke9225]

I'm a landscape photographer and I use average as it works the best for uneven light admittedly though I do use GFX camera so it makes it fairly easy with metering because the dynamic range is so good in the camera. It's not such an issue with medium format, but if you're using crop sensor cameras or micro 4/3rds metering is critical

[@pw5391]

Good Morning Pierre do you like the Sony 16-25mm G len will you be doing a video on the Sony 16-25mm G len? Thanks

[@c4pound]

I used to use metering back in Dslr day, spot metering to be specific. In order to calculate the light and darkness on each spot. Now I rarely used it. Live preview on mirrorless is so good. Not to mention wavefrom and false colour on some camera

[@NathanTrimbach]

Some of us not so old school guys still use an external handheld light meter! Great video btw. Metering is so important and overlooked today.

[@Pierretlambert]

How often do. you use and is it for older cameras or even recent ones?

[@NathanTrimbach]

@@Pierretlambert I primarily use it when I'm shooting on my medium format film cameras especially when I shoot at night or shooting slide film. Being very precise in my metering is very important since the margin for error is lower. I believe overall that digital sensors behave more similar to slide film since you want to protect the highlights more and modern sensors can recover shadows fairly well. I made a video about shooting film at night that goes into my metering methods if you're interested!

[@olegvorkunov5400]

I found that Spot metering on A7IV is working perfect for me in most situations.

[@ronaldmoravec2692]

I use Nikon Z and center weighted and move camera to include balance of tones. Lately I set camera to A and have the rear command dial set to exposure comp. Now the camera A mode gets me close and compensation gets it perfect. Camera is set to show histogram before exposure. Never chimp, never miss. In computer raw profile set to flat or low contrast and then auto. This gets me close and I only need small corrections. Try linear profile if you like this.

[@hurleygreen927]

GREAT METERING INFO! Thanks for taking us back to basics!

[@itsGeorgeAgain]

Sometimes when i need to use spot metering, i just meter my subject with spot, lock exposure, then reframe how its needed. (This is for backlit stuff, that i don't want to keep dead center.)

[@alanalain4884]

I use Average with AEL when needed, and that's it. Here goes your "highlights" metering for who don't have it (not on 5D IV or D850 for sure), without having to fiddle too often with other metering modes.

[@THEKIKSOFTEXAS]

Really like the way you explained metering Ive been using center metering for most of my photos but I thing that exposing for the light in my night walks would be a huge difference im wanting to try

[@robby_0816]

The bonus tip was very helpful for me. I had exactly this problem on my last shoot and now I know how to avoid it in future. Thanks a lot!

[@ShillingTechy]

Perfect Timing, not too long ago I was about to look up what metering is for and how to use it. Great Video

[@marcogea1974]

Spot is intended to be used in MANUAL exposure mode (without Auto-ISO), when you want to measure the luminosity of various different elements in the frame, and THEN set Aperture and Shutter speed to the values that YOU (not the camera) choose, so as to "place" each element in its appropriate luminosity "zone". In other words, it's NOT for shooting in any of the auto exposure modes. It's there as the most precise tool to INFORM you, so that YOU can take control!

[@clydedigital]

Good video. If you were walking through a house with a camera on a gimbal what metering setting would you use? The problem is that some rooms are dark and some are bright. Also, some dark rooms have bright light coming in windows. We obviously use auto ISO which will adapt, but I have often wondered if changing the metering might help... any tips? I think it would be better if you could use a variable shutter speed (auto Shutter speed lol) to control exposure, instead of auto ISO, allowing us to avoid noise, but as I understand it that isn't an option. Or is it?

[@dannymartinez742]

If you use your camera on Aperture Priority, it will automatically adjust your shutter speed for the aperture you choose and auto ISO

[@michaelajoseph6856]

Thank you for a great and informative content.

[@victahh281]

Thank you! I've been looking for a video that explains the multiple metering modes and hadn't found one I understand. This is a great simple and concise explanation.

[@seaeagles6025]

Hi Pierre, another very useful video this was I really enjoyed it. The Only time I use Spot Metering is when I photograph the Moon. By using Spot Metering for the Moon it doesn't have that very bright colour outside the circle of the Moon. I find it's the best way to shoot the Moon. So my final picture is just the Moon and anywhere outside of the Moon is Dark. Many thanks for this great video and your tips and settings, much appreciated. 😊

[@seaeagles6025]

Thanks Pierre 😊

[@Mortenthorpe-DK]

Tbh! The fastest most reliable way is still an external light meter - Sekonic is the best (only one?) - even the cheapest ones are nice… remember to calibrate it to your camera-brand though

[@HilmarSchacht-zm8kg]

You must have the lifetime of cat 😂 too cumbersome

[@Mortenthorpe-DK]

@@HilmarSchacht-zm8kg have you even tried using a light meter??? your comment sounds like pure nonsense

[@Alton_Roundtree]

Video ideas- metering mode for video for vlogs, sports, shorts, etc.

[@Martinwhynot]

Can this (or something else) be used to remove an assistant with a softbox from a scene. I'm looking for a way to eliminate layers and masking if I can speed things up. 😊

[@SourPlanet]

I love how easy it is on Sony and similar systems. But I've been having more fun on my old Leica M240, where I have to be a bit more "on the ball" with it. I shoot street and my goal is hopping into flow time, so adding another variable is where I want to be. If I was doing paid gigs I'd be back on Sony real quick lol

[@markstpierre]

great information. I didn't know about the Face Priority in Multi-Metering setting, and that explains some of my issues as well. Thanks !!

[@unkreativnet]

A lightmeter is measuring the light hitting the object. The camera is measuring the object reflected light. This is not the same :-D

[@Pierretlambert]

Yes good point! You do bring the light meter in front of the object to measure the light coming at it.

[@LittleIvyBookstoreTresna]

Different method but same purpose. Metering in the camera is more accurate coz it is measure the actual light that camera capture. Because various object bounce light differently. While at the old time we can not measure exact light captured by camera, so light meter very useful to help calculate exposure.

[@xodius80]

Correct, these are two worlds appart

[@FatihVideographer]

How would you use metering while shooting video in slog or any log profile with native ISO? Greets

[@ChoicesHabitsAttitudeLuck]

the face priority off is the correct exposure. Black is black. look at the shirt

[@KenToney]

I’ve often wondered for bird in flight photography which is better. I normally use matrix on Sony a1 but constantly adjusting exp comp. BTW shooting man with auto iso.

[@rolvmariusfaleide3093]

Spot 😂

[@KenToney]

@@rolvmariusfaleide3093 thanks I’ll try that

[@angelathomas2117]

Hi this has been a very helpful video for me I will try these settings Thank you

[@timbtentacion8606]

Rewatching this video again! Just bought my A7CR on Friday.

[@ColdCoffeePhotography]

Never knew about face priority, thanks Pierre! 😊

[@ralphj.5186]

Still using a lightmeter for studio portraits with flash

[@GOWTHAMSESHADRI]

Regularly i used Canon 200d Mark II Multi metering mode.... Occasionally used center metering or spot metering mode...

[@tme500ify]

nice video but I can't use exposure compensation but only shutter speed in manual mode

[@jurgenmastre487]

Useful as always. Thank you

[@JoshuaDeanHealey]

I like spot metering multiple parts of the scene

[@scrptwic]

Photographing the moon i have to use manuel settings the moon is bright while the surrounding area is dark in auto ISO it bumps it up to my highest limit making the moon look like a flashlight . I have to set the ISO at 100 stop my lens fown to F8 and set my shutter speed between1/ 200- to 1/400 on my 500mm lens to get a properly espoused picture

[@kennethbehrens8874]

Spot metering on the moon surface, then exposure lock, will overcome this.

[@scrptwic]

@@kennethbehrens8874 I was thinking about that myself as a way to overcome having to change so many settings in my camera

[@kennethbehrens8874]

@@scrptwic Yes ... keep it simple. You only want to expose for the bright moon surface, not the black sky.

[@notmyname8527]

Used to be a problem before. With modern mirrorless cameras not such a big issue

[@Mowikan]

I am in doubt of modern camera’s still meter for 18% gray. I think that it prevents clipping around the measuring spot. The narrower the spot is the more the algorithm allows clipping outside the spot.

[@babajaiy8246]

No metering is required - Just experience in comparing/remembering what your viewfinder/monitor showed compared to your resulting image back home. Helps if you started photography in film before digital came around - It was a skill you simply naturally developed.

[@bcegerton]

Great video Tim

[@Pierretlambert]

Thanks Tim!

[@aviationPhotographer22]

Great content as always!

[@Stop-All-War]

Histogram & exposure compensation ✅️

[@cpplinford]

I still use spot because I don't like it when my camera accidentally meters for the background instead of my subject. But I' willing to try this!

[@frankc1702]

Hand held metering may be more traditional but it is NOT “old school”. Hand held metering is still used in photography, video and film and it is much more accurate than your in camera meter. Your camera uses “reflective” metering which measures the light bouncing off a subject. Hand held Light meters use “incidental” metering which measures the light falling on a subject. It is unquestionably better. They can take a lot of guessing and those in camera or “on screen” adjustments out of the work you spoke about. You can even get average metering for entire scenes in situations where there’s complex lighting. Hand held meters also have reflective metering modes which does the same thing as your camera. You should try it… I’d like to see you cover up your camera screen with tape and go shooting using only your in view finder meter…. That’s Old School!

[@GreggRoberts]

I use light/flash meter. On a side note, if the lens isn't Leitz, it's out of focus.

[@rustystuff]

extremely helpful,thank you 👏

[@Dariusproductions]

Thanks Pierre, do u permanently stay in Tokyo ?

[@kagezen]

Thanks Pierre you're awesome!

[@fooBar55]

I use Multi and Centrer

[@uratasan]

Thank you!

[@arportuense]

Hello, the Canon R6 II has this configuration

[@lonniesfilmmaking333]

Merci much Pierre 😊 So helpful ❤

[@ChristianLawrence]

Another great video Pierre. Have you any idea about this? The dynamic range of the image displayed on the screen seems to be restricted on Sony cameras . For example if I raise the iso to say 12800, then start to decrease shutter speed, the exposure gets blown out to a point. As I further decrease SS below 1s the exposure doesn’t get any brighter and keeps a small part of exposed image on the screen. In context if using a nd10, and I want to boost exposure to see the composition I am unable. Any ideas? Why this occurs. Obviously you have bright monitoring available. No one seems to have the answer, so I thought if anyone would know it would be yourself. Cheers Chris

[@Pierretlambert]

Do you think it is the brightest the screen can show?

[@ChristianLawrence]

@@Pierretlambert no, its not the screen. Seems to be software limitation imo. You also get the effect in reverse if you set 30 sec shutter, then keep raising iso. It gets to point that it stops getting brighter (even when the screen isn’t fully bright) . For example shooting dark sky, the camera won’t you overexpose the image to see what the sensor can see. Might have to fire a question at Sony support. Only picked up on it because the canon r5 could do it. Thanks anyway, thought it was worth asking in case you had come across it. 👍

[@martinpetkov55]

Great content!

[@maxhighstein]

Well done. Thanks!

[@ElementaryWatson-123]

Live View has its own problems, camera closes the aperture to the work value in that mode, which may affect AF precision. When Live View is off, camera would open the aperture for the best AF and will only close the aperture when taking picture.

[@photobyconrad]

Such a nice Video, made my Day :)

[@andyb_23]

Matrix and highlight. Nikon z system.

[@jdgzman]

If I’m not mistaken is your intro sampled from a seventeen song

[@jdgzman]

Also do you take pictures in any picture profile

[@gustavo66bueno]

But if you have an evf won’t it just show you how the photo will turn out? The point of mirrorless cameras? Having all settings on manual nothing in auto or priority

[@Pierretlambert]

Correct you need the monitor or EVF to show result or if DSLR use the ruler -3 0 +3 to get an idea of your exposure

[@asepnaziulirpan4981]

its very helpfull. thanks a lot

[@Zuiddam]

I have a question I now have the Nikon d7000 and I want to buy de Sony a7iv do you have any tips

[@kh1188ish]

Wait for A7v to be released then buy A7IV. Price will drop a bit especially if you buy it used. Use the savings to buy good glass.

[@Major_T]

I have a 7100 I've been waiting as long as I could to evolve from. I've been studying and comparing lenses and what not in the Sony world for years, waiting for the right time (and the budget to go "wild"). I accepted the fact that Nikon was way behind in mirror less and was fine going to the best. That was until I toyed with the new Nikon zf and went reading everything about it to confirm my feeling. I bought it without even thinking and have no regrets whatsoever. Going from the d7100 to the zf felt like when I went from a cheap bridge to the 7100 many years back.

[@Pierretlambert]

yeah see if you can get a good second hand deal :) or even moving to a A7CII can be a great upgrade

[@SteveDisenhof]

My understanding of H+ is that it’s effectively a “protect the highlights” mode. This is my default setting for stage photography to keep Caucasian foreheads from blowing out. In those situations it becomes “ETTR Mode.”

[@sergiopaulino859]

I use Multi metering

[@TheGoodContent37]

That sounds way more complicated that spot metering. 10 years of using spot metering on manual for everything with no issues. It's extremely fast and simple.

[@jpdj2715]

That may be true, but only holds if you really understand very well what to point the spot at.

[@justinoff1]

Spot metering is the only answer. Always on manual

[@HilmarSchacht-zm8kg]

Centre weighted suits me

[@jaapkroonfotografie]

I thought you didn't want the A7c camera ;-)

[@MALZman]

For me none of these metering modes really works well in video :/ I've stick to Manual exposure my shoots

[@billzigrang7005]

The light meter shown at the beginning is an INCIDENT light meter, not a REFLECTED light meter as described at the end of the sentence.

[@Pierretlambert]

Thanks for pointing it out!

[@NeilHadynNicholson]

I use evaluative mode for 99.9% of the time. I also use spot metering but only when I shoot people in backlight photos. Canon cameras have a highlight tone priority option which ensures you don't blow out the highlights.

[@geo2theo]

Canon light metering symbols seem to not conform to what actually is metering. Nikon is clear in this regard

[@Michele_aka_Latente]

i use spot+evlock. matrix/evalutive is a "rudimental" AI mode, the camera subdivide the image in zones and do a spot measure for each one, then use information like lens used, focal distance, scene color, point of af the try to understand what are you doing and use an huge database of case to find the correct exposure. when someone said "i shot in manual" using matrix/evaltative make me laugh.